Starter solenoid relay - device, malfunctions, check. Starter retractor relay - what is it for and how does it work How to check the starter retractor relay at home

As a rule, if the battery is normal, but the starter does not work and the engine cannot be started, then the most common cause is the failure of the solenoid relay. For this reason, a general check of the starter and solenoid relay is necessary.

In this article, we will look at how a retractable starter works and works, what signs indicate that there are problems with this element, and how to check a car's retractable starter.

Read in this article

Retractor starter relay: device and principle of operation

Let's start with the fact that the specified relay is an important element in the starter device. First of all, the starter has two relays. The first is responsible for turning it on and is located in the engine compartment (often in the fuse box). The second relay is traction, it is on the starter itself.

Its task is to, when starting the motor, synchronize the starter circuits, redistribute the electricity between the starter motor and the relay solenoid. Also, the indicated relay brings the bendix gears to the teeth on the crown. After starting the motor, thanks to the relay, the Bendix gear returns to its original position.

So, the starter traction relay, which motorists call the retractor relay (due to the return of the Bendix gear to its place), does not differ in a complex device.

Among the main components are:

housing and relay contacts;
relay contact disk;
magnet (has a retracting and holding winding);
anchor (core) with starter relay rod and fork drive rod;
return springs;

The relay is based on a pull-in coil, which is shaped like a cylinder and is an electromagnet. Inside which is placed a movable core, while the coils of the holding coil are wound on top.

One side of the core has a rod extending beyond the body, pushing the starter fork. There is a hole at the end of the rod, there may also be a crossbar, which depends on the model of the car.

On the other side there is a rod, at the end of which there is a contact disk of the starter relay. The body of the solenoid relay itself looks like a rubber cup, where 2 contacts are pressed. The contacts have a thread where the terminals are attached with nuts.

A ledge is made between the contacts on the outside of the cover to avoid short circuits. The cover is screwed to the end of the relay so that the contacts come out opposite the contact disk, which is located on the core rod.

The traction relay is mounted above the starter and securely attached to it. If there is such a need, removing the relay is quite simple. The only thing is that the starter itself will also need to be removed.

As a rule, the starter relay comes in the form of a collapsible product that can be checked and repaired, and there are also non-collapsible options. In this case, the relay only changes to a new non-separable or collapsible one if necessary.

How does a solenoid relay work?

The principle of operation of the relay is that, after closing the contacts in the ignition switch, it causes the starter power relay to operate, which then transfers voltage to the retracting winding. As a result, a magnetic field is created, which causes the armature to move into the inside of the winding.

In turn, this armature retraction due to the rod acts on the starter fork and makes it move, thereby shifting the bendix (overrunning clutch). As a result, the starter gear engages with the flywheel crown. In parallel, the movement of the armature assists the disk fixed on the rod to close the contacts of the solenoid relay.

It turns out that while the armature is moving, the starter is connected to the flywheel and at the same time directly connected to. Next, a current flows through the starter motor (motor), the motor starts to work, starting the car engine.

At the moment the starter is turned on, the retracting coil is turned off, the electric current passes to the holding coil. In this case, this coil holds the anchor in the extreme position.

This coil reduces the power consumption of the retractor relay, holding the armature does not require much energy compared to retracting. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of battery energy when starting the engine.

After the engine starts, the starter circuit is broken, the traction relay winding remains without electric current, and the spring returns the starter armature to its original position. Similarly, the bendix and contact disk will be removed from the starter relay contacts.

In other words, when the winding is de-energized, the starter is disconnected from the flywheel, and also disconnected from the battery. After the engine starts, the starter is completely disconnected from power and from the engine.

Starter solenoid relay: fault diagnosis and repair

To begin with, the solenoid starter relay of a VAZ or any other foreign car can often fail for the same reasons. Given that this element is reliable and durable, its breakdowns are the result of wear or high loads.

Usually, the driver may encounter the fact that the retractor relay does not make any sounds after turning the ignition key, the relay clicks every other time, etc.

One way or another, in such a situation, the starter retractor element may be damaged. This is not surprising, since the starter relay operates with a high voltage of up to several hundred amperes. As a result:

the power contacts of the starter relay on the side of the side of the contact plate burn out;
there is a break in the holding or retracting winding;
there is a deformation of the return spring;
a short circuit occurs in the windings;
mechanical damage to parts in the retractor relay device;

To accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to diagnose the relay. Considering that the relay operates on the principle of an electromagnet after applying voltage to the starter windings, it is important to find the problem element. For starters, you can pay attention to external signs.

In the case when the starter does not turn, it is quite possible:

the solenoid relay works, but the starter does not start to rotate;
solenoid relay and starter do not work;

So, the fact that the relay has tripped is indicated by a click that can be heard at the moment the armature is pulled in. It turns out that by turning the key in the lock and fixing the click, we can assume that the relay is working properly.

Otherwise, that is, when the starter relay does not click, it is either not supplied with electricity, or the relay itself is out of order. By the way, it also happens that the solenoid relay works, but the starter does not turn. In this case, the cause is burnt relay contacts.

To check this, you need to take a screwdriver and close the protruding parts of the contacts with it. If, after a short circuit, the starter starts to turn, then the cause is burnt contacts. If the circuit does not help, then the malfunctions are associated with the starter itself.

It also happens when the starter and relay do not work at the same time. In this case, there may be several problems, starting with an open circuit or failure of the elements in the ignition lock and ending with breaks in the winding of the solenoid relay, loss of contact with the coil ground, and others.

It also happens that the retractor relay works, but extraneous sounds are heard (knocking, something rattles, etc.). Usually the reason is that the contact of the windings is poor. You can check it by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. Normally, the resistance of the retracting winding should be about 0.55 ohms, and the holding winding should be 0.75 ohms.

If the readings are less, then this indicates a short circuit inside the winding, while a large resistance will indicate poor contact with ground and / or terminals. If you suspect a break in the winding, you can check it with test lamps and a battery.

By connecting the light bulb to the winding, it is checked whether it is on. If it burns, then everything is in order with the winding, but if there is no ignition, this indicates a break. The only thing is that this method does not allow to detect a short circuit due to the fact that minor deviations in resistance do not affect the brightness of the control light.

In any case, if a problem is found, the solenoid relay is either repaired (collapsible type) or replaced (non-collapsible). The collapsible relay is removed from the starter, after which it is often necessary to solder the winding leads. Then all contacts are checked, when they are burned, they are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

In a situation where the winding leads fall off the case, they are soldered in place. Also, during disassembly, parts of the relay that are worn out are determined and changed. As a result, the repair of the solenoid relay allows you to restore the performance of the part. However, with such an opportunity, it is better to immediately replace the starter relay with a new one, especially considering its quite affordable price.

Principle of operation

A car starter is essentially a DC motor. When an electrical voltage of 12 V is applied to it, it begins to rotate. Since the starter is connected to the engine shaft through a belt drive, it also rotates it. This happens every time the driver gets in and starts the car.

When the engine is running, regardless of whether the car is standing or driving, the reverse process occurs from the point of view of electrical engineering. From a DC motor, the starter turns into a generator.

The engine, rotating the starter shaft, causes the generation of electric current with a voltage of 12-14 volts. But the starter does not only consist of a DC generator-motor.

To control it, transfer it to the generator or engine mode, a traction relay is installed on the starter. Therefore, when checking the starter with a multimeter or other device, you will need to find out the functioning of the relay.

When the ignition is turned on, a control current is supplied to the winding of the traction relay. This causes the armature of the relay and the rod to move, which presses on the lever, causing the bendix to engage with the flywheel.

At the same time, the nickels are connected, with the help of which an electric current is supplied to start the electric motor.

Functionally, the starter is so well developed that it is possible to distinguish between different brands only by power, body design and materials used.

If a person figured out one starter and was able to check and repair it, then he can do it with any other.

The most vulnerable elements of the starter are the retractor relay, the armature collector and sleeve, the alternator brushes, the bendix, the nickels, the damper spring and the fork.

The reason for their failure lies in the extreme loads experienced by the generator when the engine is started. A current of hundreds of amperes flows through its windings.

To date, there are no diagnostic equipment capable of checking the performance of the generator. Therefore, you have to rely on experience and a good old multimeter.

Checking the battery and ground bus

If voltage is applied to the starter, but it does not respond, the following must be done.

Switch the multimeter to voltmeter mode, select a scale of 20-100 volts for direct current and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. The device will show 12-13 V. This voltage is necessary to start the engine.

At lower readings, you need to charge the battery. When taking measurements, it is necessary to observe safety precautions, since there is metal around, short circuits are likely. The glasses won't hurt.

Then, you should check what condition the ground bus is in. If there is a sensitive ohmmeter in the multimeter, measure the resistance between the "minus" connectors of the battery - the chassis of the car, the engine and generator housing. The device should show 0 ohms everywhere.

You can do it differently. The multimeter is switched to the voltmeter mode with a minimum scale and, with the ignition on, the voltages are measured between the battery minus, the car chassis, the engine and generator housings.

Readings must be accurate to tenths "zero". If more, then you need to check the connection contacts. If necessary, clean them and tighten tightly.

Further manipulations require computer diagnostics. In computer-controlled vehicles, the immobilizer can block the engine from starting. Intervention in the electrical part, sometimes, leads to blocking the start of the car.

Ringing relay and connecting wires

For subsequent diagnostics of the generator, an electrical circuit of the car and a mnemonic diagram of the relay position are needed. The engine is started in two ways. The first - the control current to the solenoid relay comes from the contacts of the ignition switch.

The second option, more modern, uses a special starter relay, which supplies the appropriate current. You can check the operation of the relay with a multimeter, in voltmeter mode. The measured voltage on the winding should be +12 V.

Then proceed to the examination of the generator itself. It can be located between the radiator and the engine or near the flywheel. It is required to ring all the conductors coming from the starter. These are two wires: one with a cross section of 25 mm 2 on the generator brush and the second one that controls the solenoid relay.

Possible problems

Then, a conductor with a cross section of 2-4 mm2 must be connected to the second wire, and it is already connected to the positive terminal of the battery. If the generator does not respond in any way, the following is possible:

An open and no contact can be checked with a multimeter in the resistance dialing mode. The indication of infinity indicates a break.

If the relay has worked, but the starter motor does not rotate, then it is necessary to check the + 12 V voltage at the output of the conductor with a tester.

Switch the multimeter to ohmmeter mode and check the relay for an open and a short (winding resistance). The measurement is made between the conductor and the housing. Readings should lie within 3-20 ohms, depending on the type of starter.

If all else fails, then you need to remove the starter and continue the diagnosis in the removed state.

Troubleshooting a removed generator

The dismantling of the starter is carried out as follows. The ignition is turned off. Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals. Then the starter itself is removed.

When the generator is removed, you can safely check it. It is necessary to close the minus of the battery and the generator case with a copper cable with a cross section of 6-8 mm 2, plus batteries with a relay connector. The generator must be running.

If it does not rotate, then the brushes are worn out, they need to be changed. If there is a disorder with the collector, then in this case it is easier to replace the generator. There may be a break in the armature winding, which is determined by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. If he showed infinity, then there is a break.

When working correctly, a click is heard. The fork should push the bendix to the very end. The starter shaft should turn. It is necessary to restart the generator several times to make sure everything is working properly.

Then the generator shaft is checked for beats. Replacing the brushes usually requires disassembly of the alternator. At the same time, all winding parameters are checked for compliance with the product passport.

With proper repair, the starter will work without failure for several more years. The duration of operation with depends on the observance of several rules.

First, starting the engine should not exceed 15 seconds. In case of unreasonable start-up failures or incomprehensible sounds, stop operation until the causes are clarified and eliminated.

It is necessary to control the condition of the connectors on the solenoid relay. A properly functioning starter will be the key to peace of mind on the road.

Many motorists have found themselves in situations where attempts to start the car ended only with the sounds of the starter relay under the hood. This is especially common in the frosty season. The battery capacity decreases faster and there is not enough charge. The review will make it clear what other causes of problems with the starter retractor relay are, whether it is possible to fix them yourself.

What it looks like, where it is

The solenoid relay controls the freewheel. Mount an electromagnet with a starter in one block. The part is equipped with a gear that should rotate the flywheel of the motor when it starts. If the flywheel continues to turn further, this will lead to a failure of the starter or the electrical network of the machine. To avoid this, the clutch is pulled out only when the engine is started (after which the relay returns it back).

Outwardly, it looks like an elongated metal cylinder with an armature coil inside, where current is supplied after the circuit is closed. By compressing the return spring, pushing the lever with the movement of the freewheel, the resulting magnetic field causes the armature to move to the coil. The motor starts, the electrical circuit breaks, the magnetic field disappears, and the return spring pushes the armature with the clutch back.

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How does the starter solenoid relay work?

Turning on the ignition starts the power supply to the winding of the device. As a result - the formation of a magnetic field in the retracting winding, the retraction of the coil core and the closing of contacts. At the same time, the core pushes the clutch to the crankshaft flywheel, forcing it to scroll.
The retracting winding causes the core connecting the power connectors of the relay through the central contacts to be retracted, transferring energy from the battery to the starter and making it work. The winding holds the core, which guarantees the supply of energy to the starter.

With a lack of battery charge, the retracting winding still works, but for the holding force it is no longer enough. A spring acts on the core and pulls it back, and the retracting winding again tries to return it to the coil.

Important! One of the common problems with the starter return relay is the burning of the power contacts. If this problem occurs, clean the damaged area well with sandpaper, and if the contacts are worn, replace them.

But since the retainer is not able to hold it, the core again goes back. Such attempts to transfer energy from the battery to the winding are characterized by numerous clicks of the core retracting and releasing.

Signs and causes of malfunction

Malfunctions can be noticed by such factors, eliminating which, this device will continue to work:

the key turns with a click, but without the starter rotating;
the key starts the rotation of the starter, but it remains idle, not acting on the engine;
the car starts normally, but instead of turning off the starter continues to rotate quickly and with a bang.

The reasons why the switch may fail are as follows:

violation of the integrity of the device due to marriage, mechanical wear or during an accident;
a short circuit in the turns of the winding due to a long exposure to voltage when trying to start the motor;
violation or burning of contacts due to poor connecting contact or prolonged operation of the starter to start the engine;
weakening or breakage of the return spring due to mechanical stress or prolonged voltage supply;
breakage of the holding winding caused by physical impact when the relay cover is loosely put on;
loose fastening of the device, which leads to distortion and the inability of the core to fully enter inside to close the contacts.

Important! With It is necessary to test the operation of the generator and the battery so that it has enough charge to operate the starter. This must be done periodically.

How to check

To evaluate the operation of the device connected to the starter, you must first check the integrity of the supply wiring. Further, by turning the key, you can check for the presence of a sound of operation.

If there is a click (but no rotation of the starter), the probable cause is the burning of the contact plates. To find out if this is the reason, you should give voltage to the car engine, bypassing the relay. The relay terminal is disconnected from the lock, and two terminals are closed with a screwdriver - from the battery and to the starter. The rotation that has begun indicates a malfunction in the retractor. It is more convenient to check when the starter is disconnected.
Then you need:

place the relay near the battery, connect "plus" and "minus" to the relay contacts;
attach the free end of the “minus” wire to the starter housing (a distinct click will show the normal operation of the relay).

The absence of a characteristic sound indicates that the device requires repair or even replacement.

How to disassemble

It should be noted that the starter relay, in which the rear contact covers are factory-rolled, is almost impossible to open. Only those relays where the back cover is fastened with screws are subject to repair. Below is a disassembly of just such a relay.

The necessary tools and equipment are:

drill driver;
soldering iron 100 watts;
metal brush;
copper stranded wire;
soft wood block.

Step-by-step instructions will help you properly disassemble the starter return relay. For this you need:

Loosen the fixing screws on the rear cover with a screwdriver.
For better heating with a metal brush, remove the oxidation that has appeared from the ends of the windings.
With a heated soldering iron, melt the tin at one end of the winding and knock out its remnants on a wooden block.
Do the same with the other end of the winding.
Open the back cover by first bending the end of the wire.

Video: disassembling the starter solenoid relay

DIY repair

Having opened access to the inside of the solenoid relay, you can see the two ends of the wire of the soaking winding (thick) and the end of the wire of the holding winding (thin). At the exit point of the thin winding, the wire must be spot welded to the body. One of the frequent problems is a break in the holding winding in this particular place. This can happen if the cover was not screwed up during assembly, or it unscrewed itself during operation.

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As a result, there is a barely perceptible slack: the lid can move a little. When the moving contacts are struck, it bounces and touches the retracting wire. And that, acting on the wire of the holding winding, leads to its breaking off. If possible, then it is necessary to properly weld the end of the wire into place by spot welding. If not, then strip the wire well and, taking it a little to the side, solder it. The relay will be restored.

Also, for prevention, you should clean the contacts on the body and the inside of the cover with a metal brush or sandpaper. It remains to put the cover in place and tighten the screws with a screwdriver.
The most difficult part of this repair is the correct installation of the cover in place. Do everything in accordance with the step-by-step instructions (see above). As a result, only clean holes should remain.

Peel off the insulation from a piece of copper stranded wire and take two strands from there. In the veins, slightly tin the ends and solder them to the ends of the windings. Next, you need to correctly orient the movable contact, which could move during stripping. It must be in such a position that the distance between the hole with the wires and the contact is the same for both sides of the plate. The distance from the screw hole to the contact must also be the same on both sides.

Next, you should orient the cover itself. The paired wire must pass into the hole where there is a contact. Next, you need to thread the thin wire guides into the corresponding holes and carefully put the cover on, pressing it on the spring. Tighten the screws with a screwdriver and slightly bend the ends of the wires outward, pressing them against the cover as tightly as possible.

Apply some alcohol-based rosin to the ends, remove the guide wires with a soldering iron, and solder the ends. To do this, you can use the same solder that was knocked down when you opened the lid. It remains to walk with a brush, insert an anchor, press and hear how the contacts work. The device has been restored.

Video: do-it-yourself repair of the starter solenoid relay

Now you know that the starter solenoid relay is a fairly simple but important device, since its malfunctions prevent the car engine from starting. Therefore, it is very useful to know the principle of its operation, to be able to disassemble and independently cope with a simple breakdown. This is quite an affordable task for a driver with minimal plumbing skills. You just need to stock up on time, desire and the appropriate tools.

What it looks like, where it is How the starter solenoid relay worksSigns and causes of malfunctionHow to checkHow to disassembleDIY repair $ (".index-post.contents").toggleClass ("hide-text", localStorage.getItem ("hide-contents") === " one")

What it looks like, where it is

The solenoid relay controls the freewheel. Mount an electromagnet with a starter in one block. The part is equipped with a gear that should rotate the flywheel of the motor when it starts. If the flywheel continues to turn further, this will lead to a failure of the starter or the electrical network of the machine. To avoid this, the clutch is pulled out only when the engine is started (after which the relay returns it back).

Did you know? Today, the largest vehicle in the world is the German-made Liebherr T 282B dump truck. Its weight is over 220 tons. In order to get into his cabin, you need to overcome as many as 16 steps. The body of this "monster" can freely fit a private house, and its carrying capacity is 363 tons.

How does the starter solenoid relay work?

Turning on the ignition starts the power supply to the winding of the device. As a result, a magnetic field is formed in the retracting winding, the coil core is drawn in and the contacts are closed. At the same time, the core pushes the clutch to the crankshaft flywheel, forcing it to scroll.

The retracting winding causes the core connecting the power connectors of the relay through the central contacts to be retracted, transferring energy from the battery to the starter and making it work. The winding holds the core, which guarantees the supply of energy to the starter.

Important! One of the common problems with the starter return relay is the burning of the power contacts. If this problem occurs, clean the damaged area well with sandpaper, and if the contacts are worn, replace them.

Signs and causes of malfunction

Malfunctions can be noticed by such factors, eliminating which, this device will continue to work:

the key turns with a click, but without the starter turning; the key starts the starter turning, but it remains idle, not acting on the engine; the car starts normally, but instead of turning off the starter, it continues to rotate quickly and with a bang.

The reasons why the switch may fail are as follows:

violation of the integrity of the device due to marriage, mechanical wear or during an accident; short circuit in the turns of the winding due to long exposure to voltage when trying to start the motor; violation or burning of contacts due to poor connecting contact or prolonged operation of the starter to start the engine; weakening or breakage of the return spring due to mechanical stress or prolonged voltage supply; breakage of the holding winding caused by physical impact when the relay cover is loose; loose fastening of the device, which leads to distortion and the inability of the core to completely enter inside to close the contacts.

Important! The operation of the alternator and battery should be tested so that its charge is sufficient to operate the starter. This must be done periodically.

How to check

It is more convenient to check when the starter is disconnected.

Then you need:

place the relay near the battery, connect “plus” and “minus” to the relay contacts; attach the free end of the “minus” wire to the starter housing (a distinct click will show the normal operation of the relay).

The absence of a characteristic sound indicates that the device requires repair or even replacement.

How to disassemble

Find out what to check if the car does not start and the starter turns.

The necessary tools and equipment are:

drill driver; soldering iron 100 watts; metal brush; copper stranded wire; soft wooden block.

Step-by-step instructions will help you properly disassemble the starter return relay. For this you need:

Loosen the fixing screws on the rear cover with a screwdriver. For better heating with a metal brush, remove the oxidation that has appeared from the ends of the windings. With a heated soldering iron, melt the tin at one end of the winding and knock out its remnants on a wooden block. Do the same with the other end of the winding. Open the back cover by first bending the end of the wire.

Video: disassembling the starter solenoid relay

DIY repair

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The most difficult part of this repair is the correct installation of the cover in place. Do everything in accordance with the step-by-step instructions (see above). As a result, only clean holes should remain.

The movement of any car begins with the start of the engine . If you want to understand the principles of operation of the main components of a car, we recommend that you start studying with the start system. One of the weakest points of this system is the starter relay. Almost everyone has heard about such a detail, but far from many understand the principle of its operation. Before starting a conversation about the starter relay, it is worth noting that the design of the car has two parts with the same name at the same time, only the first one is responsible for turning on the starter, it is usually located in the engine compartment, and the second is the starter solenoid relay.

WHAT IS A STARTER RELAY

So, let's start with the basics. There are two relays for the starter. The first is installed in the engine compartment. The design can have its own housing or be installed in a common unit.

Within the framework of this article, we will be much more interested in the second relay, which is responsible for the operation of the starter, namely the retractor. It performs the following functions:

redistributes energy between the starter and the electromagnetic relay;
feeds the Bendix gears;
synchronizes the starter nodes,
returns the gears to their original position after you turn off the engine.

In the automotive world, this node has two names: traction and retractor. The first is most often used in specialized literature, the second is popular.

To understand why a starter solenoid relay is needed, let's look at the operation of the engine schematically. To start the engine, the crankshaft must begin to rotate. Only then does the fuel-air mixture ignite in the combustion chamber.

Usually the process of starting the engine takes place within a second. The role of the relay in it is quite simple. Thanks to him, the gear elements engage with each other. It synchronizes the starter. Also, this node removes the bendix from the flywheel.

The main components and principle of operation of the engine start system

To understand the operation of the starting system, it is worth considering first the car starter device. The purpose of the starter is to start the engine. The starter device for all cars is identical, they differ only in size or parameters. So, the design consists of the following mandatory elements:

The main role here is played by an electric motor, and the bendix and starter relay are auxiliary elements. The electric motor includes standard elements such as a stator, a rotor, as well as a starter brush assembly. Bendix, although the smallest detail, but plays a very important role. It is necessary to transfer rotation from the electric motor to the ring gear of the engine flywheel, thereby ensuring starting.

Until 2000, the bendix was located on the same shaft with the rotor, and then a new layout appeared, where the bendix began to have its own separate shaft and rotate through a gearbox.

Therefore, sometimes we hear such a name as a gear starter. The starter solenoid relay is a more complex element and performs several functions at once:

Redistribution of electricity supplied from the battery between the electric magnet of the starter relay and the electric motor;
Synchronization of the operation of all nodes when starting the engine;
Feeding the bendix gear until it meshes with the flywheel ring gear;
Return of the working gear after starting the engine to its original position.

The principle of operation of the starter is as follows: in order to start the car engine in operating mode, it is necessary to forcibly rotate the crankshaft until the fuel mixture in the cylinders begins to burn.

Usually, it takes quite a bit of time to start a serviceable engine. It is the task of the starter retractor relay to keep the engagement of the Bendix gear with the flywheel and rotate the crankshaft equally until the start occurs. Nothing more and nothing less. If you hold it longer, you can break the parts, and if it is less, then the engine will not start.

DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR

CHECKING THE SYSTEM

Before checking the solenoid relay, you need to test the starter itself. This check will allow you to understand what exactly does not work in the system. Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it.

Attention! If characteristic clicks are heard at the same time, then everything is in order with the starter, but the relay is out of order.

Next, you need to open the hood and get to the starter. You have to make sure that's exactly what's wrong with him. To do this, bridge two contacts. They are made in the form of two copper bolts. These structural elements are mounted behind the solenoid relay (on the housing). If, after the manipulations you have done, the mechanism spins, then the problem is in the retractor relay.

In some cars, reaching the starter is very difficult, and sometimes even impossible. In this case, you will have to partially disassemble the system and dismantle the device itself.

Attention! Be extremely careful during the inspection. The mechanism rotates at high speed. If you're not careful, you could get hurt.

After dismantling the starter, lay it on the ground. Place the battery nearby. Connect the leads of the two devices. In this case, the mass of the battery is closed to the mass of the starter.

When the wires are connected, the starter solenoid relay will work. At first, there will be a rather loud click. If the mechanism is too slow, be sure to check the contacts. A similar situation may be caused by the fact that they are burnt.

Checking the solenoid relay on the removed starter

It is more convenient to check the operation of the relay on the removed starter. But before dismantling, several operations are performed to identify the problem:

Check the reliability of fastening the terminals, the condition of the battery, remove oxides from the contacts and battery terminals.
Make sure that the wiring is securely fastened to the starter with nuts. If corrosion is noticeable, the contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper.
Check the condition of the starter relay.

The starter is removed after disconnecting the wires suitable for it and unscrewing the mounting bolts. In some vehicles, this operation will take a lot of effort, as the unit may be located in a poorly accessible engine compartment.

After removing the starter, it is cleaned of dirt, the oxidized contacts are treated with sandpaper, and the test begins in the following order:

The unit is placed next to the battery, from the terminals of which there are wires with "crocodiles".
The positive and negative terminals are connected to the corresponding contacts on the retractor.
The free end of the negative wire is touched to the starter housing and the result is observed:

If there is a distinct click in the relay, then it is working;
If the retractor does not show "signs of life", it needs to be replaced or repaired.

WHAT DAMAGES CAN BE IN THE RELAY RELAY

Usually the whole problem lies precisely in burnt contacts or their sticking, other malfunctions can be classified as:

coil burnout,
mechanical damage,
natural wear of parts.

In the latter case, the starter solenoid will need to be replaced. There are a number of signs that, with a high degree of probability, say that the problem is in this node, they include:

After starting the engine, the starter continues to work. This is evidenced by a well-audible buzzing sound.
When you turn the key in the lock you hear a distinct click. This means that the main system starts, but the starter does not work.
When you turn the key, the starter idles. The engine remains inactive.

These signs most likely indicate that the malfunction is related to the starter solenoid relay.

HOW TO CONNECT

Many motorists are afraid that after they have repaired the solenoid relay, they will not be able to connect it. In fact, the connection scheme is quite simple. Not only that, you create it yourself.

To carry out the reverse dismantling, you must first mark the disconnected terminals. This will allow you to connect everything correctly after the repair is completed. Also, before installing the relay, you need to clean the contacts. For degreasing, use a modern liquid sold in automotive stores.

REPAIR

It is worth recognizing that on machines of the same series, the starter solenoid relays are very similar. The brightest in this context is the following car line:

Vaz 2109,
Vaz 2106,
Vaz 2110.

In principle, all starter solenoid relays have the same design. Accordingly, their repair process is similar. Basically, the differences lie in the fastener systems. Also, cores can have different designs. But the general scheme is very similar.

So, in order to repair the starter solenoid relay, you first need to dismantle and disassemble it. Here, in fact, lies the main problem. In most vehicles, these units are non-separable. All that remains for the driver in this case is to carry out a replacement.

It is very important to maintain a clear sequence during the repair. Otherwise, you risk not only harming the part or other systems, but also getting injured. The process itself consists of the following steps:

Disconnect battery power.
Clean the part from dust and dirt. Otherwise, foreign particles may get inside the assembly, causing damage to it.

Loosen the brush head nut.
Remove the contact from the bolt.
Loosen the clamping screws. It is they who connect the relay to the mass of the car.
Loosen the ends of the nuts.
Divide the device in half.
Perform core replacement.
Perform a reassembly.

Before putting the device back into the car, start it. Re-installation should be carried out only after preliminary testing. When everything is assembled, do a few test runs. Only after that go to the track.

WHAT ELSE CAN BREAK

Most damage to the retractor relay is associated with the burnout of certain of its elements. Most often, electromagnetic circuits burn out. Windings and contacts are also subject to such destruction. In some cases, metal fatigue is the cause of failure.

However, ignition problems are not always related to the starter or retractor relay. If the repair did not give the desired results, check the electrical circuit. Also check how much charge the battery has.

Every car owner can check and repair the solenoid relay. The process itself does not take much time, and its complexity in most cases depends on how conveniently the starter is located.