Why does not start the machine starter twist. The starter twists, and the engine does not start - how to find and eliminate the causes of malfunction? Technical problems - starter faults

Variants of breakdowns with a non-starting engine in your vehicle can be a huge amount. In most cases, the breakdown in the starter turns out to be fatal, and it makes the car owner take advantage of the complex of evacuation services, and then direct the car for comprehensive repairs. If, read another article.

What if the engine does not start because of the starter?

In case of detection that the starter does not spin when the machine is ignited, it is necessary to immediately engage in the study of the rotor space for the detection of breakdowns and faults in the system. Some of the peripheral devices may turn out to be disconnected, which ultimately leads to a blocking of the engine starting system.

If in the 2000 models of the issue of the issue problem with the lack of movement in the starter had a specific explanation in the form of wear of the teeth, now modern models may not start even with the simplest locking of any of the sensors in the onboard computer system. Consider the most common issues.

Malfunction with starter power

If you have problems with the engine engine due to troubleshooting troubleshooting, then first of all it is worth paying attention to malfunctions in the nutrition of this device. As a result, you are probably just discovering that the battery turned out to be highly discharged or disconnected from the terminals. In this case, the starter will not be able to start, as electricity will not flow into the system.

Tip: The lack of power with the starter may occur when. Just check the condition of the terminals and battery.

If the battery is charged and the headlights work properly, then the problem with the work of the starter can be associated with the breakdown or occurrence of cliffs in the connection of electrical conductors. They will be either completely disconnected from the battery in one of the engine nodes, or as a result of wear will be sparkled when the motor is started.

Often the problem with the wires is associated with the strong oxidation of the terminals taking place with any battery model almost always. To eliminate such problems with the starter power supply, you must complete the following complex of work:

• To start, remove the oxidized terminals of the car battery using a rubber screwdriver;
• Clean with a small small piece of sandpaper all internal components of terminals and connecting wires from the starter to the battery;
• Clear contacts on the battery itself using sandwich;
• Check the degree of charges of the battery of the machine using any of the universal charger;
• Check the external inspection of the integrity of the connecting wires that feed and drive the starter;
• Secure the battery terminals with a screwdriver, additionally checking them on the ability to disconnect.

After the work performed again, try to turn on the engine and see the starter operation. If he was able to do at least one turn along the axis, and then published a loud sound and stopped again, it means that the problem lies in the battery. Perhaps you encountered a problem of a fully discharged battery. In this case, simply put a battery for 10 hours or buy a new battery model. Installing a new battery under the hood car should not create problems.

How to quickly restore the charge in the battery?

Each of the car owners should be known that in modern vehicles there is a special type of device designed to carry out an additional charge of the battery. The device is a conventional generator transmitting electricity from the rotating motor on the wires to the onboard system of the machine and directly to the battery.

Using the use of an additional generator, you can quickly replenish the battery charge and continue to operate the car. However, it is simply impossible to fully fill the entire battery charge using the generator. This is hampered by a number of reasons:

• With additional charging of the battery through the generator, the first must be in a state of calm for 6 hours;
• When charging the battery, an additional load may appear through the generator, which adversely affects the durability of the battery;
• Conduct charging through the generator on the go no sense, since it will give a very weak voltage.

Tip: If you were conducted and it is necessary to some energy to check it, then the generator will help you in this. However, with deep discharge, the battery does not make sense to rely on energy from the generator. The engine work is enough for 10 minutes, after which the car will have to evacuate.

A malfunction in the starter design - the knot is heard a knock and grinds

Rarely, but a problem with the start of the vehicle engine is due to problems inside the starter device. In this case, the external inspection to detect a malfunction will be quite difficult, and without the full diagnosis of the car here is not to do. To detect the problem and the neutralization of its actions, you will spend a huge amount of time and even more money and your efforts.

The list of major faults that occur in the design of the starter of your vehicle with a long service (over 15 years):

1. The detection of a short circuit, which burned the spare parts of one of the windings. If you find this problem, you can see the starter smoking, and the smell of burning from connecting wires will appear;
2. Wearing the retractor relay, as a result of which the service of the Bendix is \u200b\u200bdisturbed. The starter simply stops contact with the engine, which is why it refuses to start;
3. Layer or complete abrasion of Bendix's teeth, as a result of which the node is simply physically able to bring the engine in motion;
4. Burning the electrical system at the starter itself. One of the sets of connecting wires can be burned or spoiled a pair of contacts from the battery.

Most of the above faults, it will not be possible to fix the machine. And if you can install with a partner, then you can fix the breakdown inside the starter only after inspecting the entire system by a specialist. Moreover, to repair the starter in the car service will be offered to you only if there is a disorder only in the work of Bendix or a special retractor type relay. When a breakdown is detected in the electrical network scheme you will have to buy and replace the device to a new sample.

Tip: In almost 80% of all cases of problems with the starter, solve the problem is much easier than you assume. For example, many car owners are perceived by the problem of contact groups in the ignition lock for the full wear of the starter, after which they run to buy a new one. After all, when, you do not run right to replace old brakes to new? Therefore, before replacing the device for a new one, it is necessary to make sure that the problem is hidden.

Since the modern models of cars use additional technologies and parameter metering systems, it is quite difficult to conduct an independent diagnosis of starter problems. Since the automation of the operation of this device is now subordinate to the on-board computer, when faults and problems occur, it is best to immediately contact the employees of a specialized car service that quickly diagnose the breakdown in computer diagnostics mode.

The car does not start, does not turn the starter - what to do?

Each of the drivers should be familiar to the situation when the power unit turns unexpectedly not start, the starter does not twist, the characteristic click from which the operation of the retractor relay begins. Since this problem is one of the most common, it is extremely necessary to know the reasons for its occurrence, ways to diagnose and eliminate.

Characteristic Motor Motor Start System

The main reason is that the engine does not start, the starter does not twist, is the low charge of the battery. This can be manifested as follows:

1. Sensors on the instrument panel and power unit cease to react to the ignition switching on. It is possible that there is no contact on some of the vehicles of the car, or terminals are unreliable on batteries. As a rule, after eliminating these problems, the vehicle motor is easily started.
2. If the starter does not work, and the backlight is missing on the dashboard, and there is no response of its sensors, it is a testimony of a low charge or a complete discharge of AKB.

It also happens that the retractive relay snaps during auto-start, while the starter does not work and does not twist the crankshaft of the power unit due to the incorrect position of the terminals on the relay, or the imposition of contacts. In the first case, it is enough to fix them, and in the second - clean the naiga, dirt and remove the college oxidation from their surface. Then it is worth trying to start the engine. If it failed - most likely that the charge of the power source is missing for scrolling the starter.

It is necessary to consider the situation in which the ignition is turned on, and the starter does not twist, but at the same time the battery is fully charged. Most modern vehicles have special anti-theft devices - immobilizers, the purpose of which is to turn off the chains responsible for running the motor. It is necessary to make sure that they are disabled either they are not on the car. Otherwise, without the help of the auto electrician, it will not be possible to solve the problem. Especially often such a problem occurs on modern foreign cars, starting in 2008.

Problems with starter

When the battery has a good charge, and the immobilizer is disabled, while the engine launch is not possible - this is a direct evidence of the starter fault. If when the ignition is turned on, the starter electric motor does not start, while the characteristic clicks are heard, it suggests that only its traction relay is triggered. The appearance of a ringing knock in the subcontrol space indicates that the starter retracting relay is defective, which is why the Bendix and flywheel do not engage with each other, making it impossible to start the car engine. Diagnose this malfunction of the retractor, and start the power unit you can climb using a powerful screwdriver with a well-insulated handle with both contacts on the relay.

Important! Before performing this procedure, it is necessary to include neutral transmission.

If the start manages, it means that the retractor is defective. Perhaps the reason lies in the burning of its pyatakov. Most of the car owners think that this element of the starter is not maintained, and in the event of its failure, only replacement will save the situation. It is enough to remove the relay, after which it is possible to disassemble and extract the round fives that you need to clean the sandpaper, the device to collect and install it back. Note that the pyataks have a special anti-corrosion coating, so their sweeping on the emery is extremely temporary measure.

If the starter does not work, there is probably no voltage on its terminals. In the engine launch system, most vehicles are provided by a special relay, the purpose of which is to reduce the start current. It can suddenly stop functioning, which makes it impossible to supply voltage to the starter terminals. A temporary solution to this problem in the way will be the installation of any similar element, for example, rear window heater relay.

Wear a starter brushes is also the reason for which the engine is not possible, or it will be turned on. Cutting or closing turns of the winding completely displays an element. In this case, without replacing it is not to do. Also can jam the part shaft, for example, due to the generation of its bearings or violation of the centering.

Problems with a retractor relay

Sometimes when the ignition is turned on, only this relay is triggered, respectively, the chain remains not closed. You can try to close the contacts of the traction, but it helps not in all cases. The appearance in the area of \u200b\u200bthe motor compartment of a third-party crunchy noise is evidence of Bendix fault. This element is made in the form of a small gear, and is located on the rotor shaft. The retractor relay is triggered when the voltage is applied to it, controlling the movement of the benks, as a result of which it engages with the flywheel. The wear of this part leads to the impossibility of performing this procedure, since its generated parts cannot aggregate with the flywheel teeth, and this is the cause of the appearance of a strong crunch.

What if the car strokes on the go, and does not start, the starter does not twist

Each vehicle owner met with this unpleasant situation. The complexity is still on how to understand the reason for the impossibility of starting the engine without finding the car in the garage box. Often output from this situation is the banal launch of the power unit from the pusher of the car, but if it did not help, without expensive services, it is not necessary to easily remove the problem on the way.

If the machine has stalled while running, when the power unit is started, it is necessary to pay attention to how much the speed of rotation of the starter has increased. This is especially true for motor-drive-transmission engines, and in some cases applicable to chain transmission. If the speed of rotation of the starter increased, while the power unit of the vehicle does not start, the possible reason for this is the belt break or the timing chain.

Consider the situation in which the starter buzzes, but does not turn the engine. The most common faults this is customary to consider problems with the entry of the traction relay, damage to the gear and wear of its teeth, the incorrect work of Bendix.

We describe the features of these faults:

• damage to the gear, as a result of which deviations are manifested in its operation. Since the gear is wearing over time, its teeth can no longer be normal with the flywheel. In addition to the development of the starter elements, in addition to the natural aging of the metal, causes the wrong process of operation of the node (when the driver has been unsuccessfully activated by the starter), the inconsistency of the engine oil type in the winter period recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Because of this, the lubricant inside the engine becomes too thick, preventing the normal operation of all parts of the aggregate. As soon as the wear of the teeth reaches the critical limit, they will no longer be engaged with the flywheel, while the crack will appear during the start of the engine, and it will not be able to start it;
• save the gear, due to which the working part of the starter drive is not included in the full gearing with the flywheel. This is characterized by the occurrence of a metallic gross in the area of \u200b\u200bthe engine compartment, and during a long-term exposure to the starter, its elements come out;
• the machine does not start, the starter does not twist and due to the presence of a malfunction fork. If this item is damaged, the leading gear when activating the retractor relay will remain fixed, therefore, its clutch with the crankshaft will not be, and the power unit will not start;
• the lack of electric power supply, which arises due to the violation of the integrity of the wiring in the car, the failure of the starter brushes, oxidation and burn contacts and terminals. All this prevents the flywheel to dial the necessary revs. This is evidenced by the change in the speed of the starter rotation.

Such faults are characterized by various sounds published by the starter in the process of its operation. For example, a characteristic metal ringing, passing after a certain period of time in crackling, it says about the presence of problems at the scene of the gear and flywheel. If the gear is worn - the entire node is subject to replacement. With its satisfactory condition, the cause of the problem is inside the block (for example, bearing wear, faults in wiring, failure of the fork, etc.).

Briefly written above

As can be seen, the reasons why the starter does not twist are not so much, while they are practically independent of each other. Motor motor starter malfunction can be caused by both the natural process of aging metal, from which its elements, improper operation and third-party factors consisting in the correctness of the choice of motor lubrication.

The starter does not apply to the category of expensive auto parts. But this does not mean that in case of his breakdown, it is necessary to acquire a new element. It can be saved to significantly, determining the reason for its malfunction and eliminating it. The ideal option will be the diagnosis of starter performance at a special stand.

4 If the starter twists cheerfully, but the car does not want to start, which means there is a malfunction in the fuel system or the ignition system. It must be determined to determine what exactly the problem is.
With the ignition, everything is simple.
You unscrew the candle, wear a high-voltage wire back, the candle is put on the engine metal (so that there is a contact), the partner turns the starter engine ...
On the injection car, check whether the bulb of the check is on when the ignition is turned on. If it does not burn, it means there is no response from the ECU. It is necessary to check the power supply chain. It may be burned down the fuse.
On the 16th valve engine, disconnect the contact from one ignition coil, unscrew the bolt and remove the coil. Having a candle, connect the contact to the coil, insert a candle in it, put a candle on the engine body (so that there is a contact), scroll the engine starter ...
In the absence of checking the spark on another pair (pairs-1 + 4.2 + 3. Check by 1 and 2 cylinders or 3 and 4 ..).
If there are no sparks, in "walking conditions, check the presence and integrity of the timing belt, integrity of contacts and connections ..
When the system sensors fails, in most cases, it is capable of starting and reach the place of repair in emergency mode. (In addition to the failure of the crankshaft position sensor. In addition, it will not be a spark position). (Fig.)
The switch, the ignition coil, the Hall Sensor-Runner-Contacts in the lid (tram) respond to the carburetor car.
In the absence of spark, the failure is diagnosed only by their replacement for obviously (for example, for renting a sideline from a garage).
Fuel system.
First of all, unscrew the candles and watch dry or flooded.
With flooded candles, the car will not work out. I don't have it, if you have the opportunity heated.
if dry
Carburetor cars.
We remove the output fuel pump liner (disconnecting from the carburetor) and dropping it into an empty, clean the bottle make several engine rotors with a starter for 3-5 seconds. The jet should be evenly and strong.
If the fuel pump is working, it is necessary to check the carburetor, manually twitching for the cable (traction) of the accelerator (gas) number 7 in the picture. In the carburetor, a trick of benza should be hit.
You can also remove the top of the carburetor and see whether there is a gasoline supply in the float chamber) if the fuel pump is working, and the gasoline does not arrive in the carburetor, it is necessary to remove the carburetor and rinse it (blow the strong air jet).
The problem may be in the closed gypsum or a mesh filter (number 4 in the picture).

Injector cars.
When you turn on the ignition key to listen to the gas station.
If the fuel pump is not buzzing, check the integrity of the fuses. (Some models of VAZ, some of them are in the panel at the front passenger's legs under the shield behind the ashtray).
Also, if you have the opportunity, remove the fuel pump and try two wiring to connect it directly to the battery.
The performance and skipping of the remaining fuel system can be checked by pressing the pressure valve in the fuel ramp. (Fig.)
If the trickle beats the weak (the pressure must be at least 2.5 bar), it is possible that the fuel filter is clogged or the mesh of the fuel pump. (Remove, replace).

Probably, every car enthusiast at least once in his life, but faced the fact that his car for some reason does not start. Let's talk today about the most common reasons when when starting a gasoline engine, the starter turns the flywheel, but for some reason the motor still "does not grab".

1. Well, however, it was not strange, check if you have gasoline in the tank. It would seem that it is necessary to be a fool to not notice, but the story knows many such cases.

If gasoline in the tank is still there, you need to make sure that the fuel pump shakes fuel. If the cherished buzz when the ignition is turned on, it is not audible, then you first need to check the electrical part of the engine power system, starting with the fuse of the fuel pump, ending with the wiring of the power grid by the pump.

2. If you have a carburetor engine, then again we check the mechanical fuel pump for fuel supply, and if everything is fine, we first look to the rubber.

We throw off the lid, and on the inner part of it. It happens that condensate is formed here, which does not allow where to beat the spark.

3. About the causes of an unsuccessful start can tell a lot of candles. You unscrew them and look, they could simply, and on this is impossible to form a spark. In this case, the candles must be dried, and the gasoline nozzles should be either blowing, rotating the starter with twisted candles, from the wells or blend gasoline in the cylinders with a cloth wound on the wire. For loyalty, of course, it is better to carry out both of these ritual.

4. If there is no gasoline in the cylinders, and the pump still works, check the power on the nozzles. First of all, it is necessary as in the case of a fuse with a fuel pump, if it is intact, then you need to call all the wiring nozzles.

10. Also the fault of the unsuccessful engine launch may be the result of the crankshaft position. It can serve incorrect information in the on-board computer, in what position is the crankshaft - therefore the formation of a combustible mixture of incorrect composition occurs. Check the electrical network to the gap, and the sensor itself is unrepretentious, and in this case only replacement will help.

To avoid such unpleasant incidents, which, according to the law of adhesion, occur at the most inopportune moment, should be regularly carried out prophylactic work, to pass, monitor the performance of all car systems and then you will minimize the likelihood of unsuccessful launch.

Surely every driver knows what an unpleasant problem is when the motor completely refuses to start. Yesterday the car started, and today I completely went to failure. This trouble can happen anywhere and absolutely suddenly, but before you eliminate the malfunction, you need to know the reasons for which the machine does not start. In this article we will analyze why the car does not start, cause and ways to eliminate faults.

First of all, you need to immediately discard panic. It does not matter where it happened, but if you are on the roadway, the first step is to turn on the alarm, and also try to remove the car from the road by all available means. Now you can search with a calm soul, for what reasons the motor of your car does not start.

If the motor does not start even without a filter, then the ignition system is faulty. To evaluate the work of this system, you can unscrew one of the candles, and then examine its condition. Candle electrodes should not come into contact with each other and must be clean. If they are visible any sediment or black on them, then such a candle must be replaced and try to start the car again. If it is not possible to change the candle, it can be impaired on fire for some time and wipe sandpaper. Alternatively, you can use a driving part of the matchbox. As a rule, after that, the engine motor is easy to start and can safely reach the place of high-quality diagnosis.

In most cases, the black color of the candle implies not only the refusal of the candle, but also an increased fuel content in the mixture, which most often indicates the incorrect adjustment of the carburetor.

But if you are sure that the candle is not the cause of the problem, then you need to check the presence of spark. Immediately it is worth warning that you can do this not on every car, since the ignition coils in some machines do not withstand such a load. To do this, take it for a high-voltage cable with one hand and slightly lean its contact to the cylinder block so that between it and the latter there is a distance of at least 5 millimeters.

Ask the partner for a while turn on the starter if you saw the spark, the ignition system is in perfect order or the candle still needs to be replaced. If there is no sparks, then check the condition of the cable, wipe it from moisture and the rubber, and open the lid of the traver. In the contact system of ignition, it is enough to simply clean the contacts, which usually always solves the problem. In the BSZ, it is meaningless and diagnostics must begin with checking all contact connections, and then one element after another is already starting to change alternately.

In another case, if the candle is black and wet, then you just "flooded". This is a very relevant problem of those drivers who are used to running a motor simultaneously pressing the accelerator pedal. Because of this, their car ceases to "grab" and then the case ends with a planted battery.

To avoid this, you need to dry the candles. For this, they are twisted and warmed on the gas stove. Next, they are thoroughly wipe, after which they are installed on the car. If you are in a hurry, you can use the reception, which implies a quick drying and blowing of cylinders. To do this, climb the gas pedal to the floor and turn on the starter. After 2-3 engine speeds, gradually release the pedal, it is at this moment that the motor usually grasps.

If you are the car owner with an injection injection system, and it does not start, pay attention to the dashboard. It can catch up with the corresponding "Check Engine" icon, which indicates specific reasons. You can learn exactly the place of breakdown with a diagnostic computer.

Starter malfunction

More serious problem when the starter does not turn the motor. That's here really
It may be a panic place, however, many reasons are completely eliminated.

So, you turned the key, but instead of the usual starter inclusion, nothing happened, then check the fastening of the battery terminals. Most likely, they just moved away, which means they need to be tightened, in some situations even clean if they oxidized.

Among the reasons for the failure of the starter can be the fact that the battery is simply discharged. In this case, it will be sluggishly unwind the engine, or even at all, it will work only the retractor. If you are confident in his charging, check the reliability of fixing all contact connections. Many cars are equipped with a special starter relay, which reduces the current and reduces the load on the conductors. It is it that can have bad contact if it was installed independently.

You can learn about this for the fact that it did not even work even retractive with a typical click. If the retractor is triggered, but the starter does not spin, then try again. Many cars due to their age and "cleanliness" contacts are not always able to get the first time. Otherwise, the starter is to be cleaned, and maybe even replacing.

Sometimes the car does not start due to the fact that the starter twists, but does not spin the motor. This means that a special crown flew from the flywheel, which caused the slippage of Bendix. Only replacing the defective node will help here.

If your machine is still not started even after the above measures, then the reasons are linked in the other. This will help you to find out only employees hundred. To get to the station, it is enough to ask the comrade to take you on the tug, and then go to the nearest place of repair.

Turn the ignition key, but the machine does not start - the starter turns, but does not grab, as usual. And what is incomprehensible to, at first glance everything is regular and works without complaints. But the problems have been hided somewhere, they need to be revealed. The causes of such behavior are mostly different in carburetor and injection engines, but there are similar. But the fact is that there are significant differences in the ignition and fuel system designs. In fact it turns out that carburetor motors are much more complicated. So, big and about the causes of such a breakdown.

The breakdown can be walking almost anywhere, so after several failed attempts, check whether gasoline comes into the combustion chamber. Remove the candle and look at its electrode, it must be wet. If not, the gasoline does not enter the combustion chambers. And now remember whether gasoline ended? If so, it will save the refueling, but if not, you will have to further look for a malfunction.

One of the vulnerable places is the fuel pump. It is driven by a camshaft rod, set next to the ignition distributor. It may have such breakdowns:

1. Reducing the length of the rod leads to the fact that the membrane stops moving and pumping gasoline.
2. Fitting valves. At the same time, the membrane moves, and the machine does not start, since gasoline does not even pumped. Inside the benzonasos cost two valves - on the inlet and release. Solve the problem can only replace these elements.
3. The destruction of the membrane, springs, metal elements leads to the fact that the fuel does not enter the carburetor.

You can find sets for the repair of pumps. As practice shows, the likelihood of qualitatively repaired this unit is one to ten, so much cheaper and easier will be to purchase a gas station assembly.

The pump has a filter, which is desirable to change at least once every 10 thousand km. The quality of gasoline and the condition of the tank make themselves felt, the filter is clogged. There is still a small filter at the entrance to the carburetor, the size of him, like a thimble. To remove it, you need to use the keys to "12" or "13" depends on the specific carburetor model. Cleaning is most convenient to the whole toothbrush.

But there is another little breakdown, which can bring out any car owner. It works normally, without interruption, but suddenly, no with this, it just stalls, it does not turn out. And after a while it can grab and continue to work without problems. These are the "mood" drops occur if the spring broke away between the float and the needle. This also happens, as practice shows, just very rarely. While the needle itself moves, fuel comes without problems in the camera. But it stands to her a little, how gasoline ceases to flow into the carburetor.

On cars of the classic series VAZ 2101-2107, such symptoms occur if the valve adjustment is broken. At the same time, the starter twists, and the engine does not start, or grabs and instantly stalls. Usually, the start of the engine on the cold occurs without problems, but it is necessary to warm up to the operating temperature, problems begin. The reason is that the holes of the valves are completely closed, therefore gasoline is not fed in the combustion chamber. The problem is solved by adjusting the valves.

1. No food. The valve does not open, the engine stalls. If you are on the road and there is no time to look for a breakdown, connect the valve output with a positive battery output.
2. Valve fuse breaks. To clean it, you need to remove the air filter housing and unscrew the device. Thrust with compressed air holes.
3. The failure is not treated, only to replace the valve. A temporary solution - trim the protruding edge of the needle.

Please note that the engine is needed for normal operation. If the air filter is clogged and it does not skip air, it will lead to the fact that the starter will turn, but the engine will not start. If nothing from the above saved, one thing left is the clogging of loopholes in the carburetor. You will have to fully disassemble and clean all the channels, getting rid of foreign objects.

Injector power system

Here you need to look for breakdowns in such nodes:

1. Petrol pump installed in the tank. When the ignition is turned on, it begins to work, pumping gasoline under pressure in the ramp. If the inclusion does not occur, the pump is faulty or there is a break in the power circuit. If the pump shakes gasoline without stopping, then the reason lies in another element.
2. If the pump shakes gasoline without stopping, then the reason lies in the pressure sensor. It is installed on the ramp and is designed to control the mode of operation.
3. Another machine will not start (the starter twists) due to the failure of electromagnetic nozzles installed in the ramp. The breakdown is almost impossible immediately, it is more likely to be the destruction of the wiring or clogging of the nozzles.
4. The failure of the fuel system sensors leads to the instability of the motor, but in some cases it is impossible to start it. If the crankshaft position sensor fails, the motor will fail to run.

It is quite difficult to carry out the separation between the power system and electrical equipment in injection engines. The reason is that these two systems are intertwined with each other, are interconnected. Most of the sensors relate to electrical equipment, but participate primarily in the mixing formation and fuel injection. For the sake of justice, it should be noted that with their help, the ignition advance angle is monitored.

As in the case of carburetor engines, it is necessary to monitor the state of fuel and air filters. The fuel line has two filters - thin and coarse cleaning. The first is located under the bottom of the car, the second directly on the fuel pump. If gasoline enters the ramp, then there are no problems with filters. There were cases when there was a breaking of the wire nozzles, coils, sensors, directly at the output of the "30" generator.

Ignition system

All that was mentioned above about the injector motors can be safely transferred to breakdowns in the ignition system. The reason is the same sensors for the most part responsible for the operation of ignition and fuel feed. Even the electronic control unit is responsible for the operation of all the components and aggregates of the car. When it fails, it is not possible to start the engine. But why the starter turns the crankshaft, and the motor does not start anyway? One of the reasons is the failure of the ignition coils (all, if there are 4) or the ignition module. This happens extremely rarely, so the engine will rather turn out.

In carburetor motors, a contact or non-contact ignition system is installed. The following elements can fail in the BSZ:

1. Ignition relay.
2. Switch.
3. Hall Sensor.
4. Runner or distributor cover.
5. Low and high voltage wires.
6. Ignition coil.

In the contact system of ignition systems, there is no switch and the Hall sensor, the contact group is installed instead of the latter. It has a limited resource, can bring at any time.

On injection engines there is no ignition distributor. The moment of supplying the voltage to the electrodes of the candles is regulated by the system of sensors and controls. And if the starter twists, the car does not start, there is no spark, the reason may be in:

1. Ignition module or coils.
2. Wiring.
3. Electronic control unit.
4. Sensors of the position of the crankshaft or distribution shafts.

To reveal the breakdown, you need to diagnose all components of the car. Most often breaks the crankshaft position sensor, you can check it with a multimeter. The resistance of the winding ranges in the range of 550..750 ohms. But this is "coarse" check, the most accurate picture of the efficiency of the device can be obtained by analyzing graphics on an oscilloscope. If this device is not, then you can make the simplest from the personal computer.

The above cases were considered when the starter twists, but the engine does not start. But maybe such that when the key of the ignition key is turned, the starter does not apply at all. Then the breakdown should be sought in the electric drive, and specifically - in the retractor relay. Very often burn contacts, destroyed, breaks in the winding. Because of this, at all, the starter does not twist the engine, even not heard the click of the retractor relay.

Toyota Liteace V 1996 - 2007

The pump is heard that it works. Candles black and dry. On the 1st and 2nd cylinder is absolutely dry. On the 3rd slightly, you can catch a pair of benz. On the 4th Even more. As if no gasoline.

I tried to measure the tension on the guns, the tester, it seems to be no (but I have read somewhere that it is impossible to measure pulse voltage tester). In the garage heat 5-10 C. It is worth the gas equipment that is not working now, the fuse is pulled out.

After repair (I changed the forces to the new, I changed the generator, the hydraulicel, the wiring, the harness turned the tape), the car immediately started, worked for 5 minutes and stalled. Another 5 minutes and another 4 minutes.

And now we wig, set up, a few seconds, but not start. The gasoline sensor shows Polbath, I made another 5 liters from the canister. Explain the search technology. Fuel filter? Pump which buzz but does not work?

5 Replies

You can buy with an adapter, you can borrow in the service leaving the deposit, you can do it yourself. A pressure gauge with a scale of up to 7-10 kg (can be from the compressor to pump tires) and the hose with clamps, you can even oxygen, nothing happens during the measurement time.

Strip the pressure from the ramp and twist the spool, pull the hose (long it is not necessary, the main thing is to be comfortable to watch), tighten the clamps. Turn the key and look at what the manometer will show.

Digital Tester will not be measured, during the operation of the nozzle, they can measure the presence of voltage relative to the mass when the ignition is turned on.

You can measure the director, the readings will not be too accurate, but this is not necessary, the device will show, come pulses to the opening or not.

Alternatively, the LED with the resistance to the nozzle chip, it will also show the passage of the signal.

I think it is necessary to observe what is happening with pressure during work. If you have nowhere to connect a pressure gauge, you still need to somehow implement a tee in the highway (for example from the classics carb), it is possible when the car stalls, the pump ceases to crush. If old nozzles are not thrown, try to return them back. As I understood, before replacement, everything worked.

Repaired. Crashed, but did not start because there was bad contact on one coil. That is, on the chip, I measured the voltage of 12V and 5V and at the factory 0.65 (apparently logical 1). The diagnosis of the closure of those1 and E1 issued code 15 which after erasure appeared again. The fact is that the chips on the coil I rejected and extended. And I chose the contacts themselves in colors and did not take into account that they are of different sizes. That is, the chip is inserted with a click. And the coil sometimes came the tension, but more often. But what is interesting. Previously, when I had no spark, the candles were always wet, and now they were dry. Everything else was the coincidence. Thanks for the advice.

And possible reasons. It is no secret that the difficulties of this kind are always an unpleasant and unforeseen surprise for any driver. Surely each of us had to witness the situation when the car starts the starter twist, but does not grab. Let's try to disassemble why it happens to have an idea how to behave in such a situation. The fact that the starter twists is already good, it means your rechargeable battery is healthy. How to check the Akb state read.

From such a situation, no car engine is insured. And no matter what air temperature outside the cabin. We will analyze consistently what to do for various types of power units.

In the case of a carburetor engine, determine the causes of the difficult launch is slightly simpler. First, let's try to pull the suction handle (air damper control). If it does not help, then go to the search for sparks. Bad contact, oxidized or burnt terminals can impede the launch of the motor. The same applies to the poor contact of the coil with a mass. If everything is in order with spark, and there is fuel in the gas tank, it means there are problems in adjusting the starting device.

The procedure will be as follows:

The injector is distinguished by its own features that manifest themselves when problems with the launch. With such symptoms, you need to start with checking the fuel pump. This may be associated with the oxidation of power terminals. After that, it is necessary to check the level of fuel in the fuel ramp. Lay the side to which the fuel supply is connected. On the side of the opposite from it is placed under the cap valve. We click on it and expect that from there will run fuel. If this did not happen, we begin to check the performance of the reducing valve of the fuel pump and the state of the fuel filter.

What could be the reason that I turn the starter, but the injection motor will not start - the blog readers often ask me? One of the possible troubles is associated with flooded. This often happens in frosty weather. It is required to wait when they dry enough. The engine can be twisted by the starter, removing the nozzles connectors before that.

Diesel

Most of the difficulties with the launch of the diesel engine. The fuel in it is flammable in a somewhat different principle. The chambers in which the diesel fuel burns, are heated to very high temperatures, after which the wasolar is supplied along with the air, which is flammable from compression. In cold weather, air in the cylinders is desirable to heat incandescent candles. If this is not done, then the machine can and will start, but immediately stalls or works unstable until the moment of warming up.

Even the slightest frost or zero temperature may be enough for problems with the launch. In the diesel engine, you need to start with checking the state of incandescent candles. We start with checking the incandescent candle control unit. To do this, we will need a control lamp. Connect it to the mass and power of the candles, and then turn the key in the ignition lock. In the case of a good unit, the indicator of the control lamp will light up.

Other problems of launching diesel engines

Another reason why the starter spins quite a long time, but the engine cannot be started, it can be caused by a high pressure pump. First you need to check if there is power on the stitching valve. We turn on the ignition and take advantage of the control lamp already familiar to us. When connected, the valve must emit clicks, and their absence can be alarmed about its malfunction.

It remains to check the fuel line - we unscrew or reverse the nozzles, or the plug. In the presence of the manual swap option, it should be carried out until the diesel fuel flows, and the air will not stop going. If you fail to spend pumping, that is, it makes sense to check the fuel filter, which is often clogged with a paraffin of fuel or conventional mud.

Friends, these are the main reasons why the engine may not start even with a long-term starter torque. If you have not joined the number of blog subscribers, I recommend doing it right now. In the coming days, we are expecting new useful materials from a wide variety of areas associated with the car and its service. Today we will say goodbye!