Some drivers joke that they can recognize from the crowd a person who has an old clutch on their car - they are clearly clubfoot on their left foot. But seriously, the malfunction of the tight clutch pedal and the associated double or even triple load must be eliminated before problems with the knee joint of the leg appear.
Oddly enough, the problem of a stiff clutch pedal exists on a wide variety of models and brands of cars with a manual transmission. An initially normal or slightly heavy clutch pedal can become stiff in both the clutch cable and the hydraulic clutch. But in most cases, it is car models using a cable that suffer from this strange problem. In hydraulics, the percentage of such problems is lower. There are peculiarities in the design of the basket, why the clutch pedal became tight without visible defects and breakages on the drive side.
In the big picture, the main reasons for a tight drive pedal are:
- abnormal operation of the clutch basket diaphragm spring;
- the presence of local scoring or local wedging of the release bearing, fork, friction disc on their bearing surfaces;
- a cable partially cut off and untwisted into a wire in a working sheath.
The last point is easily controlled independently, without the help and services of auto repairmen.
On a note! It is often believed that if, after depressing the clutch pedal, it quickly and easily returns to its place, the cable is serviceable and cannot be replaced. It is quite possible to check the ease of movement of the cable without dismantling it. For a more accurate check, the cable head is disconnected from the drive foot and, depressing the pedal, the applied force is compared with the parameters of the new cable.
Why is the clutch pedal tight
In fact, the problem that caused the drive pedal to become stiff and tight has a complex basis and links all three factors:
The first reason is the most common. The cunning arrangement of the basket petals leads to the fact that over time, the central part with the release bearing protrudes like a hump above the plane of the spring. To overcome this hump, you have to spend additional effort.
Often, the manufacturer artificially increases the stiffness of the petals to increase the durability of the diaphragm spring. This is especially true for Chinese fakes for branded products, for example, Kraft or Sachs. With the installation of such a "piece of iron" the tight clutch pedal will not become easier.
In addition to the spring, the release bearing also adds problems with wear. After 150 thousand km, it will dangle on the spring petals and give any imaginable distortions. The design of the release fork is such that it is on it that the main efforts converge and concentrate. This leads to deformation of its axis of rotation and wedging in the extreme positions typical of a worn basket mechanism.
Very often there is a situation when the owner replaces the clutch basket with a new one, but in order to save money leaves the fork. The new basket creates a huge drag force and as a result, a worn fork breaks at the most inopportune moment. In this case, the driver receives a fallen clutch pedal instead of a tight pedal.
How to deal with a tight clutch pedal
Most drivers do not want to put up with this state of affairs and do their best to improve the clutch performance.
Among the most common recipes for dealing with a tight pedal are the following:
- Replacing the basket and all clutch elements in the assembly with a known quality product. The best option would not even be the new Valeo, but the assembly recommended by the manufacturer. Often it became a revelation for many car enthusiasts when, after replacing cool branded baskets with ordinary Russian options, the clutch pedal from tight to the extreme turned into a version with a comfortable level of effort;
- Clogging all rubbing surfaces with grease is considered cheaper and more affordable. To gain access to the blind points of lubrication, there is a diagram showing the drilling locations where the gear oil is subsequently pumped with a syringe or oiler;
- Replacing the cable with a more durable model, regularly filling with brake fluid or engine oil using a syringe under the sheath. If a spindle or similar oil still gives a good effect, pouring brake fluid or WD-40 is pointless and useless. They only contribute to the destruction of the outer sheath of the cable.
Important! All of these methods, to one degree or another, can effectively deal with a tight clutch pedal. The first recipe will be the best and most effective.
In addition to cable drives, hydraulic systems also suffer from similar problems. But, unlike the cable, due to the high force on the clutch release fork, the cylinder cuffs are destroyed first of all, and a brake fluid leak appears.
The video shows what a tight clutch pedal is and how to fix the problem:
If you are the owner of a car with an automatic transmission, then this article may not seem interesting to you, because now we will talk about an indispensable part for vehicles with a manual transmission. Of course, we mean the clutch pedal, which just plays the role of the main link between the driver's desire and the "obedience" of the car. To engage or disengage the clutch, it is necessary to apply a certain force to the pedal, but if excessive loads are required from the driver, then this is a clear sign of the presence of any malfunctions in the system.
1. Reasons for a stiff clutch pedal
Why do we sometimes have to meet such a phenomenon as a "hard clutch pedal"? In fact, there are several of the most common reasons. Firstly, the pedal lever itself is often jammed or the cable is overwritten, and secondly, too much wear of the clutch fork bearing can also serve as a source of such problems, because of which it also begins to move tightly. In some cases, tightness is due to a blockage in the hydraulic system or wear of the release bearing.
Naturally, in order to restore the normal operation of the clutch pedal, you will have to take a number of necessary actions, but first, let's try to understand the various signs of the manifestation of certain malfunctions. For example, if the stiffness of the clutch pedal is the result of wear on the fork bearing, then when you press the pedal, you will hear a certain characteristic rumbling, indicating that the release bearing has already completed the allotted time and it is time to replace it with a new part.
The mechanisms produced today are designed to overcome fairly long distances (more than 1300 km), but the driver will not be prevented from carrying out regular diagnostics and timely elimination of emerging problems (including replacing broken parts). In the same cases, when the system is treated carelessly and inattentively, the clutch pedal will serve you at least 50,000 kilometers, and in large trucks, problems can be caused by poor lapping of new elements.
The problem of incomplete engagement of the mechanism should not be excluded from the possible causes of "hard clutch".In such situations, when changing gear, the vehicle driver will hear a characteristic grinding sound. This is due to the inability of the driven disc to come off normally from the pressure disc. To fix this malfunction, it is best to immediately contact a professional.
Incomplete shutdown of the device also has its own reasons. These include:
- incorrect adjustment of the cable;
Driven disc jamming;
Incorrect assembly of the system assembly;
Disc warping;
Heavy wear of the switching mechanism.
The problem of a “hard” clutch pedal occurs in different cars, and hydraulically operated vehicles are no exception. If you are the owner of just such a car, then you should know that a tight clutch pedal can be explained by several reasons: a bent fork, coked slots of the input shaft, on which the driven disc slides, contamination of the bushing along which it moves, as well as damage to the inner part of the flexible hose of the hydraulic drive system. These are the most common explanations for the stiff pedal problem, but they are far from the only ones.
For example, a piece of rubber may peel off on old hoses, which will eventually play the role of a kind of valve, so if you look for the cause without dismantling the gearbox, you can independently replace the flexible hose and bleed the clutch, and if this does not help, then contact the service specialists.
2. What if the clutch pedal is stiff?
If the clutch pedal on your vehicle suddenly becomes tight, and the gears are shifted with a certain effort (and it also happens that the speed does not turn on at all), the first step is to establish the exact cause of this phenomenon. It is likely that a complete replacement and adjustment of the clutch cable will be required. This process has its own characteristics, and before installing a new element, it must be thoroughly lubricated with a special liquid. For this, the composition of WD-40 is often used.
In addition, the clutch pedal is often impossible to depress. Often this is preceded by an overly light press or a complete "failure". Such breakdowns are often associated with improper adjustment of the cable or with its breakage. In such cases, it will be useful to check the condition of the release bearing, which may be damaged, which is why it becomes difficult to press the pedal. You should also check for damage and the diaphragm spring located on the pressure plate.
If you are used to repairing your vehicle yourself and are well familiar with the features of its design, then such a check can be performed independently, but in most cases car owners prefer to seek help from service station specialists.
3. How do I fix this?
The easiest way to “soften” the clutch pedal is to lubricate the release bearing guide and clutch fork support. Of course, this method will help eliminate the problem only if more serious malfunctions and defects in parts are excluded. To complete this task, it is not at all necessary to dismantle the checkpoint. Simply remove the cable from the fork, then the protective rubber, and then secure the fork so that it does not slip out of the support bearing tabs. After completing these tasks, take a flashlight and see if there is enough lubrication in the mechanism.
If it is absent, then carefully clean the dirt with a wire and lubricate the part. Move the fork in different directions so the grease is better distributed over the entire surface. Also, do not forget about the support located behind the fork, it should also be well lubricated. Of course, due to the limited engine compartment space, it is rather inconvenient to perform all of the above actions, but if you wish, nothing is impossible. Therefore, please be patient and boldly proceed with the task.
When we press the clutch pedal, we definitely have to put in some kind of force, but there are times when it is pressed too hard. In such a situation, we are dealing with the problem of a tight clutch pedal.
There may be several reasons for such a breakdown. The most common of these are sticking of the lever or cable, wear of the fork bearing. So, in order to restore the correct functioning of the pedal, you first of all have to deal with the so-called breakdown symptom (or with the fact that led to the breakdown).
So, if the stiffness of the clutch pedal came as a result of wear on the fork bearing, then when you press the pedal, you will hear a kind of rumbling, which indicates that the release bearing has already worked out and needs to be replaced with a new one.
The mechanisms developed in our time are designed to cover long distances (more than 1,300 thousand km), if the driver regularly conducts his diagnostics and the necessary replacement of worn parts.
But if the system is treated carelessly, then it will last you no more than 50 thousand km. In large trucks, problems can also arise with new, not yet ground-in components.
Problems can also be caused by the clutch pedal not being depressed. This situation can be observed, for example, when at first it is pressed too lightly, and then falls through and is no longer pressed. This kind of breakdown can be associated with the moments of incorrect adjustment of the cable, or with a break in the cable.
You also need to check if everything is in order with the release bearing, it may be damaged and because of this there are problems with pressing the pedal. It is also worth checking the diaphragm spring, which is located on the pressure plate, for damage. If you are well versed in your car, then you can do this kind of check yourself, but for the best result, you should still contact the service station workers.
The problem of incomplete shutdown of the mechanism is also possible. In such a situation, the driver of the car should feel a certain grinding sound when engaging the gear. This is due to the fact that the disc is not able to come off normally from the pressure plate. To fix this breakdown, it is also better to contact a professional.
The situation when an incomplete shutdown of the device occurs is possible due to a number of reasons, such as:
- the adjustment of the cable is made incorrectly;
- there is a jamming of the driven disk;
- the system node is not assembled properly;
- disk warpage occurs;
- deterioration of the shutdown mechanism.
A tight clutch pedal is considered a fairly frequent breakdown of the system as a whole. In such a situation, it is pressed very hard. To differentiate the source of the breakdown, you should contact the masters, especially if the breakdown occurred after the installation of a new set.
The clutch pedal on a car with a manual transmission is used to engage and disengage the clutch when starting and stopping the car and changing gears while driving. When the effort is increased when pressing the pedal, then this situation, in addition to significant discomfort for the driver, reduces traffic safety and can lead to an emergency.
This is because the increase in force when the pedal becomes stiff is always caused by some kind of malfunction, the consequences of which are unpredictable until the cause is identified.
Car pedals: from left to right - clutch, brake, gas
Clutch drive types:
Rope;
Hydraulic.
Most often, a malfunction with an increase in pedal effort occurs when equipped with a cable drive.
Pedal failure symptoms:
Extraneous sounds (creak, squeak) when pressing and releasing the pedal;
The pedal moves in jerks;
Frequent pedal idle adjustments (usually when a crack appears in the release fork);
Jerks of the car when the clutch is engaged (when the pedal is released);
Reasons for a tight clutch pedal:
Stuck pedal lever;
Wear of the clutch fork drive cable;
Fork jam;
Dirt or cracks in the release bearing guide;
Stiff movement of the piston in the clutch master or slave cylinders (dirt or foci of corrosion inside the cylinder body);
Crack in the bearing drive fork;
Skew or crack in the cable retainer bracket (located in the car interior);
Worn or deformed clutch basket petal spring;
Jamming of the clutch disc on the spline part of the gearbox input shaft;
Peeling of rubber inside the flexible hose, as well as sticking of rubber inside the hose.
A tight pedal spring can also be caused by a tight clutch plate spring, when manufacturers deliberately increase its stiffness to extend its life. Similar products "replica" for well-known brands are supplied by Chinese manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing elements of a clutch assembly, it is better to give preference to trusted manufacturers, even if it will be more expensive.
What to do?
Often, inexperienced drivers immediately begin to blame the clutch assembly itself, purchasing the entire set in order to replace the assembly, without understanding the very cause of the malfunction. In addition to the fact that a set in the form of a basket, a disc and a release bearing costs serious money, you will also need to pay in the service for a replacement.
In this case, it may turn out that after replacing all the elements of the assembly, the problem persists and the pedal is still tight. The culprit in this situation is often a worn out clutch cable (separate "hairs" of the cable have fluffed up), or dirt or traces of corrosion in the cable jacket, as well as a lack of lubrication on the clutch release fork shaft.
A few drops of oil or injection of WD-40 into the cable jacket or yoke shaft are enough and the whole drive starts to work perfectly like new.
Lubricate the clutch cable with engine oil
Hydraulically driven there may be a malfunction of the master or working cylinders.
If the clutch release fork is worn out, if it is deformed, it is also necessary to replace it together with the clutch unit, since if it is not replaced, then, in addition to the fact that the pedal remains tight, the fork itself may burst. This is due to the fact that the new basket has a lot of compression resistance and the worn out fork can burst at the most inopportune moment, making it impossible to change gears in the gearbox.
Therefore, when signs of a tight clutch pedal appear, diagnose all clutch elements to accurately find and eliminate the malfunction. It is better not to postpone such an operation until later, since one day you can get up on the highway far from settlements.
The clutch pedal is taut when the driver needs to apply a noticeable amount of force when pressed. At the same time, there may be several reasons why the clutch is tight: fastening of the pedal itself, malfunction of the clutch drive, malfunction of the clutch mechanism, etc. Next, we'll look at signs that indicate a stiff clutch pedal is a symptom of a malfunction, as well as the causes of a tight clutch.
Read in this article
Device and types of clutch: features of connecting the drive
Before moving on to malfunctions and a tight pedal, you need to pay special attention to the clutch device. The standard clutch fitted to a manual transmission vehicle includes:
- clutch disc;
- release bearing;
- release clutch and clutch fork;
- clutch drive;
- clutch basket.
There are several types of clutch:
- single-disk, double-disk or multi-disk (according to the number of driven disks);
- dry or wet (type of working medium);
- with mechanical or.
On machines with manual transmission, the most common today is a single-disc dry clutch with a hydraulic or mechanical drive. The connection methods for the clutch pedal may also differ.
The mechanical method of connecting the pedal to the release bearing is carried out by means of a cable connected to the clutch fork, which mechanically presses the release bearing, which opens the clutch discs.
In the case of the hydraulic method, the pressure of the release bearing is controlled by means of a liquid. In this case, when the clutch pedal is depressed, excess pressure is created in the hydraulic circuit, which, in turn, acts on the hydraulic part of the release bearing, which opens the clutch discs.
Correct operation of the clutch must be accompanied by clear engagement and disengagement of gears when depressing the clutch pedal. The transfer from the internal combustion engine to the checkpoint should be smooth, without gaps in the traction, extraneous noise. The pedal operation itself should be smooth, moderately light, without perceptible vibrations.
It is also necessary to focus on the fact that (if adjustments are provided for a specific model) must have free play.
Clutch failure symptoms
Clutch problems can affect the overall technical condition of the vehicle and affect the safety of both the vehicle itself and other road users.
Malfunction symptoms:
If the clutch pedal is tight with a mechanical drive, then the reasons are as follows:
- malfunctions in the clutch pedal mounting mechanism;
- failure of the mechanical drive for engaging the clutch;
- deformation of the clutch fork;
- failure of the release bearing;
- failure of the fork mounting bushings;
- wear or deformation of the spring petals;
- jammed or jammed braided cable.
Stiff clutch pedal with hydraulic drive, reasons:
- fluid leaks from the hydraulic circuit or;
- failure of the release bearing guide;
- failure of the release bearing hydraulic piston;
- malfunction of the clutch basket (deformation or wear of the spring);
- failure of the working cylinder (damage to the cuffs).
Elimination of faults in the clutch drive
As a rule, when one of the signs of a malfunction in the clutch actuator appears, the malfunction must be accurately identified. If it is a clutch mechanism, it is better to completely replace the clutch kit, and not be limited to only the part that is out of order.
It is also necessary to take into account the high cost of repair work, since it is often necessary to remove not only the clutch itself, but also the gearbox.
Methods for eliminating some clutch faults:
If problems in operation and a tight clutch pedal remain after repair, a number of other reasons can be distinguished why the clutch is tight. Among them are:
- clutch cable wear;
- dirt, corrosion in the cable jacket;
- lack of lubrication on the clutch fork shaft.
When it comes to the hydraulic drive of the clutch, then the reasons may be a malfunction of the clutch master or slave cylinder.
We also add that it is important to change the clutch release fork when it is deformed or worn out in a complete set with the clutch assembly. If this is not done, the plug may break or bend during operation.
Let's sum up
Given the above information, it becomes clear that there are many reasons why the clutch pedal is tight or the clutch is hard. In the process of troubleshooting, you should check the pedal mechanism itself step by step, and then move on to the clutch elements, cables, rods, etc.
Finally, we note that often before the clutch pedal becomes tight, characteristic signs indicate problems that have appeared (traction disappears, jerks, vibrations, noises, etc.). For this reason, when the first signs of clutch malfunctions appear, a complete diagnosis of all its elements is necessary.
Ignoring this rule often leads to the fact that a tight or hard clutch pedal can come as a surprise to the driver on the road. The clutch pedal also fails, the clutch may not "grab", etc. To avoid such unforeseen breakdowns, the clutch performance must be checked at every scheduled maintenance.
Read also
How to adjust the clutch pedal, what the adjustment is for: clutch functions, clutch pedal adjustment (free travel and total travel).
