How to choose a used focus 2. Ford Focus II (2004–2011): case history

Hello. Today we have FF2 and I want to sort out a few questions for you. And I will argue a lot.
1. Why painted cars are bad? Or just painted bodywork?
2. What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
3. How to tell if the car is well painted?
4. How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?

I must say right away that there won't be many photos today. Why? Partly covered here - Do I like reading more than watching? Where is the photo and text? But today I will partially write only a theory. Why again without a photo? Because if you watch the video, you will see so many things that even 1000 photos are not enough for it ... and there are many moments that are not conveyed through photos ... but let's talk about everything in order.
They asked me to pick up a Ford Focus 2 on the machine for about 350,000 rubles. Alive, with a minimum of colors, good technique and! Attention! with a mileage of about 100,000 km or a little more, and better less. I alone cannot understand what the salt is? What mark is this 100,000 km? But I will try to explain everything to you.

I naturally did NOT take on the selection. And does this mean that I am arrogant? No, it's easier. I do not undertake to search for cars over 7 years old. Is this my whim or is it a need? Here I have to explain myself.
How much is the new FF on the machine? I will answer - 1,000,000 rubles (one million rubles) with a tail. Add winter tires, hull insurance, carpets, alarms, engine protection and more. Even with all the discounts, you will go for a loan.

What do you expect from such a car for 350,000 rubles, which is 8-10 years old?
And everyone is waiting - no colors or a couple and no more. Mileage up to 100,000 km or so. Good condition. Not many owners, native PTS and so that there are two more places left to sell normally. Not rotten, not broken, and so on.
How can I find one? I don't travel to a parallel universe ... be realistic? Mileage 90% of cars in any metropolis - 15 - 25,000 km per year. And here is the indignation of many ... But this is a fact. Another 5% of cars will have even more mileage! And about 5% remains with native / honest / low mileage. Where do these cars go? A little described in this post - Dispelling the myths that I myself wrote about. Sable. Sandero. Solaris. And if such a car gets to the announcement, then the price will be appropriate (not cheap).
Everyone wants a perfect car for 30% -35% of the cost of a new one. How realistic is this? Ask yourself. How much are you willing to sell an ideal car for?
And I immediately offer the client to add money. No, this is not my whim, this is common sense and nothing more. But there is no more money ... buy something else? Not. It remains to hope for a miracle. And I can’t find this miracle, therefore, take on the selection and review all the cars in the city for free in order to understand that this is “firewood”, I have no desire, you know? And if you come across the option "half wood", and for lack of a better way to speak - BUY this best offer, my tongue will not turn. It is much more correct to look for a couple of rubbish for money, and the person himself will understand everything. Is this honest on my part? Let's figure it out.

And VK links flew. One-second-third. I went in and looked. Outbid. Another and so it is clear that the wood. The third is similar. Refused to watch everything. Other links. Broke through everything. Mileage 80,000 km in the ad, the old ads of this car from 170,000 km. The other has 100,000 km, in those inspection 190,000 km and it was done yesterday. And so on all cars… there were beating, of course and just with restrictions on the reg actions. For my part, I have already saved the person a lot of dough. But I understand that even if there is an option that is good at first glance, it is not a fact that it will be so when you come to watch.

And then I announced. 3 owners, in fact 2, one of the owners outbid, but he registered the car. The bases are clean. 2009, automatic, 1.6L. No road accident on the base. No arrests or anything else. The mileage in those inspection coincides (it was less than thousands by some, but they drive a car). But the girl sells the car, which is kind of a problem. But for every rule, there is an exception, right?
And I tell the client to call yourself. Talk, communicate. Find out what's painted and other little things. Get to know everything, and decide whether to watch or not.

Why didn't I call?
There is such a moment. Firstly, I already helped a lot in punching other cars (in fact, I don't need it). Second, I've already learned from my mistakes. There was an incident that everything seemed to be normal, and on the phone everything was on fire, and I arrived and full of firewood. And the client expressed his opinion that I flew money to earn money, and that I was to blame for everything, I deliberately chose this one so that I could see 5 more cars later. In fact, the seller just deceived me. Now I'm smarter, I don't take on such responsibility. And I always warn you, and they can lie to me, I am not a god, I only use the correct algorithm. And in essence, if I choose a car myself and call, this is called the selection of a car, and I also end up in the trash. Understand that everything why I have changed so much (for the worse) depends directly on my clients. And in order not to be extreme, it is easier to give up something than to be shit afterwards. Do you understand? although it hardly matters to you ...

The client called.
The girl spoke confidently, the car was checked when buying, the doors were painted, and even then without the shpak. The rest is whole. Of the jambs, only vital chips. Always served. They always did everything on time. The car is in excellent condition, as it is written in the ad. Bought it from the outbid (remember this). And they give me the go-ahead for inspection.
It should also be said that there were no photographs of the state. That is, just a photo in which nothing is visible. Let's take a look already? And then he annoyed everyone with his shit ...

Here you saw my photos. Who noticed what? There is no plug in the bumper, which is under the hook? So I'll tell you that in their photos in the ad, and this was not visible! The angle of the photo was such that the right side of the bumper was invisible at all. What else did you see?
I started to inspect the car from the back.
* The rear right fender is dented.
* The chrome pad is cracked and screwed on with four self-tapping screws, you can see it in the video.
* Really vital jamb only on the edge of the rear right fender near the trunk lid, chips.
* The top trim on the boot lid is just black, not painted.

At first I thought she was cured. But when I came closer than 15 meters, I understood everything ... Let's list what was painted, what jambs and, most importantly, how it was done:
* The trunk lid is hand-painted ... with snot ... with craters ... poor ...
* The rear left wing is painted in the same way. Moreover, if you open the trunk lid, you can see that the seams have parted ... that is, everything is crooked. and I didn’t even pay attention to whether it was welded at the factory or not ... the machine was checked with a thickness gauge according to her words ... but here it is not needed, you can see such firewood ... but once I poked the rear wing 400 microns, it showed, it didn’t become any more ... The wing is rotting already by arch. And a shpak burst on it (the video shows)
* In the opening of the trunk lid, the paint falls off ... of course it is repainted.
* Rear door opening repainted (also rotting). The new paint has fallen off, you can see the factory paint under it. (everything is clear on the video)
* The middle pillar is repainted. Risk everywhere ... snot ...
* The left threshold is repainted and rotting already ... everywhere there is a terrible shagreen.
* The driver's door is repainted ... with a bunch of jambs for painting ... Risks, snot, crater.
* The rear bumper is cracked in several places, the putty falls off.
* The front bumper is painted with a spray can, they did not hide it during inspection. Only the right side of the bumper was painted from a balloon, and it was the right side of the bumper that was not visible in the photo (it is necessary to decipher what is painting from a can?) I'm not kidding. They just blew from the balloon.
* The right threshold is jammed. Is he painted? I didn't even look.
* Repainted entire muzzle that is - both fenders and hood. Everywhere there is risk, putty, crater, snot and everything is crooked.
* There are dents on the rear right door.
We have a whole (without jambs) - the front right door. That's all ... and then maybe I haven't noticed yet. And maybe not all the jambs described.

How do you think bad paint is considered a jamb of a car? Or is it good? It looks not too bad from 25 meters. Answer in the comment.
I may have missed a lot of things, but you understand the picture. This is not all. Naturally, everything that can be removed was filmed. Even on the inside, the trunk lid was not normally painted (you can see it in the video).
The FF2 front fender mounting bolts are covered with hard plastic. On the left side, it does not stand still ... and the wing is rotting ... in general, everything that is painted here, everything is rotten. Or the paint spits out, or it swelled up ...

This plastic cannot be put in place. Why? Because the mudguard is jammed behind the wing. There is a crease ... and until you do the bodywork, everything will be crooked.

But they even climbed into the wiring on this car ... in the photo it may not be very clear, but the wiring was rewound with Russian insulating tape, and no one knows what was there (not even the seller). And part of the air filter housing is soldered (you can see it in the video). By the way, the TV, although not made of iron, can be seen that it is painted. Who fumbles, he will understand it from the video.

Well, do you think you can convey all this with photographs? And I ran out of them for today. And you haven’t seen the salon yet… I often write that it only remains to give a shit… so this time, someone did it for me… horror… I didn’t get into the car… I didn’t ride the car. I didn't see the point in this.
We will do without the result of the inspection, but we will disassemble this car according to the questions from the beginning of the post. Here one follows from the other. What's wrong with painted cars? Or just painted bodywork?
Everything that's painted here is ROTTING. From and to, absolutely everything. And this is almost the whole car. Why is this painting good? Each of you will say that he has a well-painted car, I don’t believe that ... you are 5% of the total mass, and all these 5% are NOT focused on D2, although I know what the comments will be ... in Russia, cars are painted for sale and for sale to 90% of people. And this means as cheaply as possible, for a presentation. And what will happen to her later - nobody cares. And it's one thing if one wing is painted, you can repaint it, another thing when the whole car is with such a level of repair.
Many will say that everything is not critical here, she is 8 years old, what did you want? I call such people nothing more than shit-eaters. Not everyone wants to eat shit, but there are some. Others do urine therapy instead of taking a pill. Everyone has their own opinion, but such cars are junk (my opinion) ... its real price, it's even difficult to say what ... how much it will give, how much it costs. Here's a typical example of a painted car! Good or bad, let everyone decide for himself, but to understand the level of colors, watch the video.
And many painted cars are simply broken. Not tinted, but broken, overcooked.

What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
I must say right away that these cars are the most massive, not counting Rio and Solaris. And if everything is clear with the B class, then those who have accumulated accumulated in the C class (in some way) often do not have money to maintain even such cars. Hence the half-dead state. Even finding a C-class car in which the oil in the machine has been changed at least once is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. Everyone always leaves everything for the next owner. And the next, again, leaves everything to the next, and this happens until the car gets stuck. In Russia, everything is at random! Maybe it won't break! Maybe I can sell it!
On the other hand, people have high expectations for such cars. You often want a lot for 30% of the cost of a new one. Too much. From that and buy either "firewood", or outbid with smeared lips. This car was previously bought out. Do you understand how he sold her? I bought a beat, poured over all the shoals for a pittance (that everything rusted or fell off), count my lips smeared, and rewound the first sucker along the lower bar of the market, saying that 2 doors were repainted, the rest is whole. And to confirm his words, he poked them with a thickness gauge, in which they (the buyers) did not understand anything. Do you really need to talk about openings? About the extended B-pillar?

How to tell if a car is well painted?
In fact, almost impossible. I have written about this more than once. Usually I tell everyone this - a freshly painted car, it's almost always a hit. And if it was painted for a long time, then the jambs are either already crawled out, or everything is fine. Maybe someone remembers the post - 403. Mercedes W202. Please rate. This car was not painted yesterday, and what should come out has already come out. Therefore, I am afraid of painted cars ... especially when they have a scattering of stocks for painting, like this FF2. Each of you, of course, decides for himself. Sometimes you look, done well, 2 layers of paint, no plaster, all the fire, even the color hit. Well, is that a minus to the car? And six months later, the paint swells, and they go to repaint again ... so whether the car is well painted or bad does not mean that there will be no problems in the future. Understand this!

How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?
This is complete nonsense, and a relic of the scoop ... 100,000 km is the beginning of the life of many modern cars. Again, evaluate the condition of the car. Do you enter search criteria (on car sales sites) for 8-10 year old cars, and score the maximum mileage of 100-120,000 km? So, with a probability of 99%, you will only run into outbids, unscrupulous sellers and beating, overcooked cars, coiled runs, etc. ... and somewhere in the ads, there is an honest, serviced car, at an average price, with a couple of colors a good owner, with a mileage of 180,000 km. But when I find one like this, they twist at my temple, 180,000 km? Are you out of your mind? She already had 4 capitals ... but what resource is there left? And they go, take trash with a mileage of 90,000 km on the dashboard, and shout, LOOK, I found it! Not that you're 180,000 km! I scoffed a couple of times, knocked their cars through ... there were well over 200 for everyone ... Now I don't upset people, I bought it, go, rejoice if it works out (drive).
It is much better to buy a car from a loving owner, but if he painted it, he did it for himself, and not for sale! Yes, he will tell you more about the car than me and tell you what needs to be changed soon. But such people in Russia are not held in high esteem ... and they sell a car for six months, and give them outbid. And those, in turn, well, then you yourself know ... mileage on the dashboard is 90,000 km, not a bit, not painted and sold.
What is better than 100,000 km and riders? Or 150-200,000 km and motorists who understand and take care of cars? But 100,000 km is a psychological mark ... even in my VK group I have seen more than once that 100,000 km is junk for many ... and try to explain that the car just started to drive? And if it concerns VAG, then there are 30,000 km for many junk.

What does a mileage of 100,000 km give?
In general - NOTHING. This does not in any way indicate the condition of the car. NO! That this car is better than another or what? Better groomed with 150,000 km? And even if the mileage is native and up to 100,000 km, this suggests that the car is ideal? Maybe this is the total after the insurance, so the mileage is small? Maybe it burned, and stood for 2 years, and looked for money and spare parts? The car has to drive and they drive. 8 years old this car. 8 times 15 - 25,000 km? The normal mileage of these cars is from 120,000 km to 200,000 km. So look for a normal car! Not a mileage of up to 100,000 km.

Honest 100,000 km. And honest 140,000 km. What's better with one condition?
Of course, there will not be one state. But look. Timing for FF2 - belt. For 100,000 km I have to change it once and it's time to change it again. For 140 000 km twice and buy with about a new timing.
Rubber. At 100,000 km, she is often dead, old, dear. At 140,000 km live, new, about new.
Rear suspension FF2. She dies to 100,000 km. And buy with a half-dead chassis? By 140,000 km, it will be replaced in 80% of cars.
Racks and chassis in general. 100,000 km, everything is native, everything is on the way (half dead). Almost everyone has replaced 140,000 km.
And I can go on forever, but 140-160,000 km is often even more problem-free than 100,000 km. Have you thought about it? Take my Almeria. I bought it with dead summer tires (7000 rubles), but buy a little more with mileage, it would be new, right? And so on all cars. Your cherished 100,000 km will give you nothing.

In the end, more about the buyer.
Imagine the customer's surprise when I told him the state of the car? He said - Yes, I talked to her. I asked everything. She told me! How can you lie? Yes, she ... and off it went. YES, this is a used car. And there is no guarantee that the seller is lying, he may not know (not this case, of course). But on the other hand, there are zero claims to me, but only thanks. And it may not be right to punish people with a ruble, but it is effective. Very effective! When people see the real condition of these cars, maybe they really dig a little, or they will look at other cars. I will not go to see? Someone else will go. And either the authority will work, or it will take a rollback and give such a "machine" to the client. There is a very fine line here, which is difficult to assess. I even wrote everything honestly, although I understand the indignation in the comments. Well, haipanu means little.

Will I take such cars for selection?
I am generally ready for this (I was ready before). I just tell everyone, the mileage is 150-200,000 km, 60% of the car will be repainted. This is the norm for such cars. But I am willing to find well-groomed, honest, and tinted, not beating. Who do you think agreed? Not guessing ... ZERO. Then it's easier not to take it than to be a trash picker ... there are a lot of them ... I don't want to be among them ...

That's it for today. I believe that such a "theory" is much more important than just a car inspection, which I usually post. Although not a super post for many, it is much more useful than pouring mud on the inspected car. I hope everyone appreciates my efforts. I tried to explain a lot. Peace for everyone.

PS: there will be more post about mileage and condition. The car has already been inspected. Coiled run, before the inspection explained it, but still, the person psychologically thought that the state would be like a car with 100 tkm. And there the state is exactly 200,000 km, as there is by car. Guess whether you bought it or not?

11.09.2018

- compact car of the American company Ford. The second generation of this model was produced from 2005 to 2011, during this time in the CIS it managed to win the title of "people's car" due to its low cost, ease of maintenance and practicality. Despite its middle age, this generation of Focus is a very interesting option for motorists who are looking for a reliable and inexpensive used car to buy. But what difficulties you may encounter during the operation of this model and what you should pay attention to before buying it on the secondary market, I will tell you in this article.

Specifications Ford Focus 2

Class and body type: (C) 1 - hatchback, 2 - sedan, 3 - station wagon;
Body dimensions (L x W x H - mm), 1 - 4337 x 1839 x 1500; 2 - 4488 x 1840 x 1497; 3 - 4458 x 1839 x 1501;
Wheelbase, mm - 2640;
Minimum turning radius, m - 5.2;
Ground clearance, mm - 155;
Tire size - 195/65 R15;
Fuel tank volume, l - 55;
Curb weight, kg: 1 - 1257; 2 - 1195; 3 - 1340;
Full weight, kg: 1 - 1740; 2 - 1735; 3 - 1895;
Trunk capacity, l: 1 - 385; 2 - 467; 3 - 482 (1525)
Options - Comfort, Titanium, Ghia, Trend.

Weaknesses and disadvantages Ford Focus 2

Body:

Paintwork - due to the age of this model, the ideal condition of the body paintwork is most likely the result of a recent body repair, and not careful operation. When examining a car, you need to understand that dull paint color, chips, scratches and sills sandblasted at the bottom are often signs of natural aging. Many examples on the secondary market already have refurbished paintwork of problematic parts. Given the age and price tag for the second generation of the Focus, in most cases, restoration work is not done in the best services, so when choosing a car, you need to be very responsible for inspecting the body so as not to get expensive repairs. If we talk about weaknesses, then it is worth noting the front bumper, hood and trunk lid, since it is in these places that problems with paintwork appear most quickly.

Chromium - decorative chrome-plated elements become covered with bubbles after several winters.

Metal - the body of the Focus 2 is completely galvanized, thanks to which it resists the onslaught of redhead disease well. However, given the age of the car, there may be certain problems. When inspecting a car, first of all, you need to inspect the places of contact between the bumper and body elements, the trunk lid, sills, door edges and the front of the hood. Particularly noteworthy is the decorative plastic trim with the branded emblem on the trunk lid, as rust appears underneath first.

Locks - one of the most vulnerable spots is the bonnet lock, as it has a very unfortunate location and is exposed to moisture, dirt and reagents, which is why it quickly turns sour and stops working. It is possible to extend the life of the lock, but for this it is necessary to periodically wash it with special means (WD-40, etc.) or replace the lock from plastic to metal, the best option is considered to be a third generation Ford Mondeo lock. With the arrival of cold weather, the touch button for opening the trunk lock may begin to malfunction - it freezes due to moisture entering it. The central locking is not famous for its reliability either; its incorrect operation leads to the fact that, in addition to blocking all doors, the gas tank flap is also blocked.

Wiper fluid hose - often flies off its mount and fills in candle wells and cylinders.

Optics - on pre-styling versions of the car, the headlights are prone to fogging. The problem is eliminated by applying a sealant. On sedans, the optics installed on the trunk lid may suddenly stop working. The reason - the wiring harness responsible for power supply breaks. It would seem that a simple replacement of bulbs in the headlights, for an inexperienced motorist, in fact, may require a lot of time and nerves, since for this procedure you will have to remove and disassemble the headlights.

Electronics - when inspecting the car, it is imperative to check the serviceability of the backlight (contacts are oxidized), the trunk lock (the wiring harness breaks), heating of the outside mirrors (the threads burn out).

Weaknesses of power units

1.4 and 1.6 liters.Duratec 16VSigma (Zetec-SE):

The weakest motor in the Ford Focus 2 line is not often found, since it was installed only in basic versions of a car. If we talk about its reliability, the mechanics praise this motor for the fact that it practically does not have congenital sores. If you decide to purchase a Focus with just such an engine, you need to be careful when choosing a car, since a significant part of such cars have worked in taxi fleets and have practically exhausted their service life. Motors 1.4 and 1.6 duratec ti-vct 115 hp do not have hydraulic lifters, therefore, every 100-150 thousand km it is necessary to adjust the valves. As for the weak points of these units, here we can highlight the unreliability of the thermostat and the right engine mount, which, when worn, increases vibrations.

Another childhood disease of engines is triplet, there can be several reasons for this ailment: one of the spark plugs, high-voltage wires, idle speed regulator (if idle), ignition coil or fuel pump are faulty. Also, the cause of erratic engine operation is often a strong contamination of the throttle valve. On a 115-strong engine, phase shifter couplings (there are two of them) do not differ in reliability. The timing belt has a belt with a declared replacement interval of every 150,000 km. However, experienced Focus owners recommend replacing the belt and rollers every 80-100 thousand kilometers. The declared engine resource is 250,000 km, in practice, they are nursed up to 350,000 km.

1.8 l.Duratec-HE /MZRL8:

It is a development of Japanese engineers of the Mazda concern. The main problem of this engine is unstable idling (rpm float). In most cases, it is possible to eliminate the ailment by installing firmware from a two-liter engine. Often, owners also complain about the difficulty in starting the unit. Cleaning the throttle valve helps to solve the problem. A reliable metal chain is used in the timing drive of this motor. And although the chain is designed for the entire service life of the unit, there are examples on which, after 150,000 km of run, it began to stretch a little, and by 170-200 thousand km it needed to be replaced. It is quite simple to check the circuit, you need to "gas" a little on a cold engine and listen if there is a "rumbling" sound or crackling when the gas is released. The presence of extraneous sounds is a sure signal about the upcoming costs of replacing the chain.

The valve cover and cylinder head gaskets are not famous for their reliability, as a rule, 100-150 thousand km, they dry out and begin to leak oil. This engine did not pass by such problems as tripping, vibrations, the appearance of various knocks and noises, the fragility of ignition coils, high-voltage wires and a gas pump. As with weaker units, it is quite often (every 40-60 thousand km) that the throttle valve and the exhaust gas recirculation valve need to be cleaned. On a car with a mileage of 100,000 km, oil consumption begins to increase, the rate is up to 200 grams per 1000 km, if the rate is exceeded, you need to visit the service as soon as possible so as not to get expensive repairs. The reason, as a rule, is one - the occurrence of the piston rings. This trouble most often befell the owners who save on oil or overheat the engine. The declared resource of the engine is 350,000 km, but as practice has shown, with proper maintenance, it can last up to 500,000 km.

Duratec HE 2.0 / MZR LF:

Structurally, this is the same 1.8, but with larger diameter cylinders. If we compare this engine with a weaker unit, then it looks preferable: it is more elastic, more powerful, it runs quieter, but at the same time it has the same fuel consumption and is devoid of the problem of unstable idle. A reliable metal chain (resource - 200-250 thousand km) is used in the timing drive. The disadvantages of this motor include the unreliability of the camshaft oil seals and the thermostat (it walks less than 100,000 km). During operation, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the spark plug wells and if oil appears in them, it is necessary to urgently tighten the valve cover mounting bolts or replace its gasket.

For 120-150 km of run, valve clearance adjustment is required, since hydraulic lifters were not installed on this motor. At the same mileage, replacement of the upper hydraulic engine mount is required. Closer than 200,000 km, the intake manifold flap control valve becomes unusable. Symptoms - traction disappears after 3000 rpm, and the Check Engine indicator lights up on the instrument panel. If the generator fails (it serves about 150,000 km), it is better to refuse further movement on the battery, since after that it will most likely be necessary to reanimate the engine control unit. The resource of the motor to the capital is on average 400-450 thousand km.

Diesel:

Diesel engines Ford Focus 2 have more significant problems in comparison with gasoline units. Most of them are caused not so much by the reliability of the units themselves as by the quality of our diesel fuel and poor service. In order for the motor not to present unpleasant surprises for as long as possible, it must be regularly and, most importantly, serviced with high quality - it is recommended to carry out maintenance every 5000-10,000 km. When using low-quality fuel, you need to be ready for expensive repairs or replacement of high-pressure fuel pumps, fuel injectors, particulate filter, EGR valve. On a run of 150-200 thousand km, a two-mass flywheel is asked for replacement. If jerks appear when starting off or a characteristic rattling, it is not worth delaying the repair, since the elimination of the consequences of destruction is very expensive.

The problem of depressurization of the intake duct between the intercooler and the turbocharger is quite common. On cars with high mileage, it will be useful to check the camshaft position sensor. A 1.6 engine after 100,000 km has a high probability of turbine lubrication problems. If the illness is not noticed in time, you can get to replace the expensive turbocharger. In a 2.0 TDCi engine, a common problem is oil leakage through the camshaft seal. Despite the considerable list of problem areas, it is worth recognizing that Ford diesels are less problematic than similar units of competitors.

Transmission reliability

For Ford Focus 2, two types of gearboxes were available - a 5-speed manual (MTX-75 and IB5) and a 4-speed automatic (4F27E). The most powerful diesel version (2.0 l. 136 hp) was equipped with a 6-speed manual and automatic transmission, but such cars were not officially supplied to us.

Mechanics:

MTX-75— was installed with the most powerful engines in the range (1.8 and 2.0 liters) and is the most reliable transmission of this model. Of the shortcomings of the box, only the current oil seals and seals of the gear shift rod can be noted. If the problem is not eliminated for a long time, this will lead to a decrease in the oil level in the transmission and accelerated wear of the shafts and gear rims. The clutch on average nurses about 120,000 km. But the release bearing may be asked for replacement after 50,000 km.

IB5 - is the most problematic transmission. Problems with it appear early enough on a run of 40-50 thousand km - knocks out the 2nd and 5th gears due to weak synchronizers. Later, at 80-100 thousand km, the axis of the satellites in the differential broke off with a subsequent breakdown of the crankcase. By 120,000 km, the input shaft bearing may howl if it is not replaced by 150,000 mileage, it wedges. If you still decide to buy a car with such a transmission, get ready to change it to MTX75 in the future.

Automatic transmission :

4F27E - the automatic transmission is also quite reliable. Oil is filled in it for the entire service life, but some services recommend changing it at least once every 100,000 km. If you do not arrange a race at traffic lights, then the automatic transmission will delight you with trouble-free operation for a very long time. Vulnerable places of the machine are the valve body, pressure sensors and pressure regulator solenoids, often they need to be replaced by 150-170 thousand kilometers.

The reliability of the suspension, brakes and steering on the Ford Focus 2

The Ford Focus 2 suspension has an unusual design for golf-class cars: MacPherson struts are traditionally used in the front, a multi-link in the rear (a beam is installed in related models). Thanks to this arrangement, the chassis is sufficiently balanced for both swallowing bumps and active steering. As for the reliability of the suspension, it is quite strong, and its main elements have a good resource (about 100,000 km). Only the support bearings of the struts, the resource of which often does not exceed 70,000 km, can spoil the impression of the car's chassis.

The resource of the original elements of the front suspension:

Support bearings - 40-80 thousand km.
Stabilizer struts - up to 50 thousand km
Stabilizer bushings - 60-80 thousand km
Hub bearings - up to 70-90 thousand km (change assembled with the hub)
Ball joints - 90-120 thousand km. The original is delivered only complete with a lever and silent blocks. To save money, many install an analogue - it changes separately from the lever
Shock absorbers - 120-150 thousand km
SHRUS - more than 150 thousand km

Resource of original rear suspension elements:

The service life of the Ford Focus 2 rear suspension elements will largely depend on driving style and operating conditions. If the car spends most of its time on the asphalt, the levers and silent blocks of the rear suspension will last long enough - 150,000 km. With frequent trips on country roads, their resource will be almost half as much - up to 100,000 km. If the suspension begins to make extraneous sounds, it is better to completely sort it out, if you do not want to visit the service station every week.

The stabilizer struts serve about 70 thousand km
Shock absorbers - 110-130 thousand km
Hub bearings are practically eternal (resource over 200 thousand km). On pre-styling cars (manufactured before 2008), there were cases when the rear hub broke out on the go along with the wheel.

Steering:

The steering system Ford Focus 2 uses a mechanical rack equipped with an electro-hydraulic or hydraulic booster, depending on the modification. As experience has shown, the rail is quite reliable and should not cause problems up to 200,000 km. But the amplifier can start to spoil the nerves early enough (after 60,000 km). At power steering, with the arrival of severe frosts, the bypass valves may freeze due to the appearance of condensation. To protect yourself from possible troubles, it is recommended to change the working fluid every 40-50 thousand km (selected by the Vin code). The problem of liquid leaks from high pressure pipes is quite common. The weak point of the electric booster is the pump control board, the replacement of which costs 700-900 cu. After 60,000 km, the high pressure hose may begin to leak at the junction of the connection with the rail. Closer to 150,000 km, amplifier bearings are asked for replacement. The disease is manifested by howling when turning the steering wheel. After 200,000 km, the pump may stop working altogether for one of two reasons - wear of the electric motor winding or a burnt-out transistor.

Consumables resource:

Steering tips - 50-80 thousand km
Steering rods - up to 100 thousand km

Problem areas of the interior and electrics Ford Focus 2

Salon Ford Focus 2, although made of inexpensive materials, leaves a very pleasant impression. Of the drawbacks of the interior, one can only note the appearance of squeaks on a Russian-assembled car in the cold season (on European versions of a car, this problem is less common). Most of all, the front panel, instrument panel, seat adjustment mechanisms and trunk upholstery are annoying. Also worth noting is the weak insulation of the wheel arches. The owners, whose height exceeds 190 cm, blame the lack of legroom. There is also a lack of space for a passenger sitting behind a tall driver.

As for the electrics, there are no serious problems here, unless, of course, the hands of an artisanal master were applied to it. Problematic places can be attributed only to malfunctions in the dashboard (error messages appear chaotically and then go out). Most often, a malfunction is caused by oxidation of contacts or a burnt out processor. Also a common problem is the failure of the temperature sensor in the cabin and the resistor responsible for limiting the speed of the stove motor.

What's the bottom line?

As befits a real people's car, it has an optimal price-performance ratio and is one of the most attractive models in the aftermarket. With careful operation and proper maintenance, this car will serve faithfully for many years and give only positive emotions. Despite the high level of reliability, the choice of a used Ford Focus 2 must be taken very seriously, since cars of this model often work in taxi services and corporate fleets, in which they are mercilessly operated without proper maintenance, which means there is a chance to run into a killed copy. When choosing a car, it is better to give preference to restyled versions released after 2008, since most of their "sores" have been eliminated.

If you have experience in operating Ford Focus 2, please tell us what problems and difficulties you had to face. Perhaps it is your feedback that will help the readers of our site when choosing a car.

Good day. Ford Focus 2 was produced from 2004 to 2011, with restyling in 2008. In addition to restyling, minor changes were made to the car throughout the production. In today's article I will tell you about the problem areas of the 2nd generation Ford Focus, and write the approximate cost of eliminating jambs. The article is a visual aid for potential buyers.

About Ford Focus 2 platform.

It's no secret that modern cars are produced on the so-called. platforms. Ford Focus 2 is based on the Ford C1 platform. Also on this platform are produced: Mazda 3 (BK), Mazda 5 (BK), Volvo C30 (P14), Volvo S40 (P11), Ford C-MAX (C214), Volvo V50 (P12).

Accordingly, choosing a Ford Focus for yourself, you can look at these cars.

Second generation focus weak points:

Body.

The body of the 2nd generation Ford Focus is galvanized, so cars older than 7 years rarely have perforating corrosion….
On older cars, rust starts at the sills and along the bottom edge of the doors.
The most problematic area is the back cover, especially on cars assembled in Spain and Mexico.
Paint often peels off on the front bumper and on the front edge of the bonnet.
The chrome finish of plastic is very often blistered.
Headlights on pre-styled cars often sweat. coating the headlight glass with a sealant ..
The plastic bar leading from the lock cylinder to the hood latch often breaks. It is treated by replacing the complete lock (about 5000 rubles), but some "kulibins" put a metal rod from Mondeo.
Over time, crickets appear in the cabin, especially on pre-styling cars

Engine.

The most reliable engine in the 2nd generation focus is the Duratec 1.6, but only if the timing belt is replaced regularly.
The 2.0 TDCi diesel is also reliable, but rarely found on the market.
On Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines. after running 100,000 km. the thermostat fails. The replacement cost is about 2,000 rubles.
After the 2008 restyling, the tensioner was removed on Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines and after a run of 30,000 km. the belt begins to slip, while it emits an unpleasant whistle. This can be treated by installing a tensioner from the pre-styling version, the issue price is about 5,000 rubles.
The throttle assembly requires flushing every 50,000 km, and every 100,000 km the TPS fails due to a lack of design.
Often on Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines, oil is observed in the spark plug wells, the reason is the drying out of the valve cover gasket. The cost of fixing the problem is 3000 rubles.
If there is no thrust after 3000 rpm and the Check Engine lamp is on, the exhaust manifold flap control valve has probably failed or is failing. Replacing the valve will cost about 8,000 rubles.
Until 2007, on 1.6 engines equipped with a phase shift system (Twin Independent Variable Camshaf Timing), camshaft couplings often fail. The cost of replacing them is almost 10,000 rubles.
When operating on low-quality fuel, fuel pump failure is common. The pump itself is quite reliable and runs about 200,000 km, but its mesh is clogged with dirt and is not supplied separately as spare parts. Some services offer mesh cleaning, some offer replacement of the pump assembly. In any case, the operation requires the removal of the tank and costs about 5,000 rubles.
Sometimes, after a run of 100,000 km, on a Duratec 2.0 engine with manual transmission, vibrations and jerks appear during trading, the reason is the wear of the dual-mass flywheel. It is treated only by replacing it and costs about $ 800.
After a run of 150,000, the neutralizers fail, usually they are treated by replacing them with flame arresters (and sometimes they just break through), and blendes are installed on the lambda probes.

The oil change interval on engines during operation in the Russian Federation is best reduced to 10,000 km. (the manufacturer recommends 20,000.

Transmission.

There are no particular problems in the second focus transmission. The 4F27E automatic transmission is reliable and easily covers 300,000 km.
The most unsuccessful gearbox - IB5, was installed with a Dutatec 1.8 engine, after 70-80 t. Km the pinion axle in the differential breaks with a crankcase breakdown, on the same box, the input shaft bearing wedges to run 150,000. Buying a car with this box, be ready in the foreseeable future to change it to MTX75 from cars with a 2.0 engine. A contract box will cost an average of 30,000 rubles.
There is no need to be afraid of gears jumping out, on cars with manual transmission, this is eliminated by tightening the cables and is cheap.

Chassis.

The chassis itself is very reliable and has no particular problems (wheel bearings run 150,000 km). Many parts are unified with the Mazda 3 and are available for sale.
If you buy a car older than 2008. Watch the rear suspension closely, there have been cases of the rear hub breaking out along with the wheel on the move.

Steering.

On the roads of Russia, steering tips breaks to a run of 40,000-50,000 km. The cost of replacing all tips is about 5,000 rubles.
Pay attention to the condition of the steering rack. When there is a knock or when the oil change interval is missed in the gur, it often fails. The assembled rail costs more than 30,000 rubles.
Also, when buying, check the power steering. If it doesn't work, please refuse to buy! A common sore is the failure of the power steering board. On disassembly, the price of the board starts from 25,000 rubles (this is really a sore).

Electrician.

In general, the electrician is reliable, but it was not without a fly in the ointment:

The contacts of the room illumination are oxidized in 2-3 years, treated by disassembly and cleaning.
On sedans, the wiring harness of the trunk lock electric drive often breaks
The cabin temperature sensor often fails (the price of the sensor is 6000 rubles).
Often the resistor that limits the speed of the stove fails, it itself is not expensive, but it changes quite problematically (about 2,000 rubles with work).

If you decide to buy a 2nd generation Ford Focus, the best choice would be a car with a 1.6 petrol engine or a diesel one.

In conclusion, a short video review:

That's all for me today. If you have something to supplement my story about the problem areas of the 2nd generation Ford Focus, leave comments and share your experience.

The Russian Focus II was equipped with gasoline engines of 1.4 liters (80 hp), 1.6 liters (100 and 115 hp), 1.8 liters (125 hp) and 2.0 liters. (145 hp). Dealers also sold versions with a 1.8-liter turbodiesel with 115 horsepower. In the standard, a five-speed manual transmission of the IB5 series was combined with the 1.4-liter, 1.6-liter and 1.8-liter engines, and with the 2.0-liter - the same "five-speed", but with the MTX75 index, capable of "digesting" a larger torque. For all gasoline engines, except for the 1.4-liter, a four-speed "automatic" was offered.

In 2008, Ford presented the updated Focus, which many even called the third "Focus" - so radically changed the car. But it was a classic restyling. The car now has other fenders, a hood, bumpers, headlights, exterior mirrors, sidewalls - without moldings, but with more dynamic stiffeners. And the most noticeable innovation is the radiator grill in the form of a huge inverted trapezoid. For all versions except the sedan, LED taillights were offered as an option. There is one more luxury grade Titanium. In the cabin, the climate control unit and the dashboard have been updated. Finishing materials have become even better. But in technical terms, the Focus has not changed. It is the restyled versions that are preferable for the purchase - most of the congenital ailments in such "Focuses" have already been cured by this time.

Ford Focus II modifications

Body

As a rule, the inspection of the vending specimen begins with the body. We are still greeted by clothes. And if the Focus hasn't inspired you with its looks, don't be in a hurry to refuse. Burnt paint, sills sandblasted in the lower part and darkened decorative details on high-mileage cars are more likely signs of natural aging than barbaric exploitation. Particular attention is paid to the chrome trim on the trunk lid: corrosion in the place of its contact with the body appears after two or three Russian winters. It costs about 5,000 rubles. At the same time, check the license plate light - its wiring quickly gives in to corrosion. Moreover, hatchbacks and sedans suffer from this to a greater extent. Repair - 1500 rubles.

In winter, due to moisture ingress, the sensor buttons of the trunk lock often freeze. In addition, the "Focus" from the first generation has retained a proprietary sore - a sour hood opening lock. In order for it to open easily, it is necessary to lubricate the inner surface of the emblem that covers the lock cylinder. Better yet, change the standard plastic lock (3000 rubles) to a metal one from Mondeo. The central locking often fails, which is why not only the doors are blocked, but also the gas tank flap. Therefore, an attempt to refuel with a faulty central lock may fail.

Salon

The interior of "Focuses" is assembled accurately and conscientiously. Even with age, squeaks and crickets, he does not annoy. And fabric upholstery lends itself well to dry cleaning and is durable. True, it happens that the salon equipment and the electrician are moping. There were complaints about the failure of the seat heating. And for the original "hot water bottle" will have to pay about 10,000 rubles. There are known cases of whims of climate control due to the failure of the cabin temperature sensor (2500 rubles). Therefore, it is advisable to check the functionality of the air conditioner before purchasing a used Focus. Also drive the “stove” on different fan modes - the “whistling” of the motor will indicate its imminent death. The new electric motor will empty your pocket for 7,500 rubles. True, a burnt-out resistor (900 rubles) can often be the culprit for the sudden "death" of the fan. Often, low beam bulbs and dimensions burn out, to replace which you have to remove the headlamp. And in winter you need to be ready to replace the faulty elements of the side mirrors. New amalgam is estimated at 2,000 rubles.

Engine

The basic 1.4-liter engine is praised by mechanics - it has practically no congenital ailments. The main thing is not to forget in time, every 80 thousand km of run, to renew the timing belt (timing). True, due to its modest volume and power, it is usually "twisted" to the fullest and it works for wear and tear, falling into second hands already at the limit of its resource.

1.6-liter engine (100 hp), which was installed on the first "Focus", rightfully bears the title of the most massive and reliable. It accounts for more than a third of all "Focuses" presented on the market today. The South African motor is designed for use in third world countries. Its simple design determines excellent maintainability and low cost of ownership. But even this unit is considered by many to be rather weak for a modern car. Especially when paired with an "automatic".

Whether the case is its 115-strong counterpart, equipped with a variable valve timing system on the intake and exhaust shafts. The engine thrust is already quite enough in all modes, and it gets along much better with the “automatic”, and in terms of efficiency it is not inferior to the 100-strong version. Only this modern motor quickly "runs out" of the phase-shifter clutch (11,500 rubles). True, the unit became more durable on the modernized machines.

Modifications with "fours" of 1.8 and 2.0 liters are second only to versions with a 1.6 liter (100 hp) engine. Both engines are identical in design and suffer from common ailments. The resource of the motors is 350 thousand km. And in the timing drive - a durable chain, which is usually replaced after 200 thousand km. But in order for the motors to live safely to old age, after the first "hundred", you should pay attention to the valve cover gasket (1,000 rubles), which begins to poison the oil. However, at first, you can limit yourself to tightening the bolts weakening due to vibrations. And then just a replacement. By this time, as a rule, the upper hydraulic support of the engine wears out (3500 rubles).

The unreasonable blues of a 1.8-liter engine (less often on a 2.0-liter) - poor traction and cold start, ragged idle speeds and increased fuel consumption - was associated with the flawed software of the electronic engine control unit. Therefore, dealers changed its firmware depending on the malfunction, although these measures were extremely reluctant. Ignition coils and high-voltage wires, fuel pumps are also short-lived. The throttle valve block and the EGR valve become dirty quite quickly. Neutralizers (34,000 rubles) do not differ in "mileage" either, the life expectancy of which depends on the engine oil consumption. If the appetite of the motor increases to 200 grams per 1000 km, you need to sound the alarm and contact the service. Otherwise, expensive repairs are guaranteed.

It is advisable to change the oil in a 1.8 liter turbodiesel after 5-10 thousand km, and refuel only at proven network gas stations. And then the high pressure fuel pump (TNVD) will overcome the bar of 200 thousand km. Repair - from 30,000 rubles. We'll have to spend money on new injection nozzles (12,500 rubles each), flush the exhaust gas recirculation valve. After 100 thousand km, the dual-mass flywheel wears out. A similar problem, by the way, occurs with the 2.0-liter gasoline engine. If you feel jerks when starting off and a characteristic rattling, urgently change. The detail is expensive - from 25,000 rubles, but the consequences of the destruction caused by the flywheel will be even more noticeable.

Transmission

On the IB5 manual gearbox after 50-80 thousand km, second gear "departures" are known due to weak synchronizers. And when working with an increased load, the axle of the satellites in the differential may burst, which threatens a hole in the crankcase and repairs for 100,000 rubles. If, when making a test drive, the box "screams like an animal", then the input shaft bearing is worn out. And it urgently needs to be changed. Otherwise, the consequences can be depressing.

But the "mechanics" of the MTX75 are more durable. True, over time, oil seals and seals of the gear shift rod leak in it, and due to the low level of transmission oil, the shafts and gear rims of gears quickly wear out. The clutch can last 100 thousand km or more, if not for the weak release bearing, made in a single block with the clutch slave cylinder, which wears out after 50 thousand km.

But the "machine" is as simple as five kopecks and as reliable as a tank. The 4F27E box was installed on various Ford models back in the late 1980s, so today it is almost completely devoid of childhood diseases. After 150 thousand km, only the valve body repair (22,000 rubles) and the replacement of the pressure regulator solenoids will be required.

Suspension

With the Focus II's driving properties, everything is in perfect order thanks to the jewelry-tuned independent suspension. Its main elements are long-livers. The idyll is disturbed by the support bearings of the struts, "nursing" an average of 40–70 thousand km. Approximately the same amount is released for wheel bearings, which are replaced as an assembly with hubs. When replacing, do not forget about the ABS sensors - they are often damaged during dismantling. With light knocks in the suspension after 40,000 km, the stabilizer struts will make themselves felt. But the bushings last almost twice as long. Simultaneously with them, at 80-110 thousand km, the turn will come to renew the ball joints assembled with a lever and silent blocks. And then on the way and shock absorbers (4200 rubles.).

In the rear suspension, stabilizer struts are updated every 60–80 thousand km. The bushings hold on average one and a half times longer. To "hundred" the lower levers wear out. Shock absorbers (3800 rubles each) have a slightly longer term - they often reach 110-140 thousand km.

In the steering, the tips with rods are enough for 50-80 thousand km. And the rail itself on the first machines even changed under warranty, but by 2008 it had become more durable. Moreover, the versions with 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines were equipped with a traditional hydraulic booster, and more powerful modifications came with an electro-hydraulic power steering, which could "burn out" the pump control board. Usually you have to change the entire node for 28,000 rubles.

Outcome

Finding a technically sound Ford Focus II will not be difficult. If modifications with reliable engines of 1.4 and 1.6 liters (100 hp) are not satisfied, you can find a Focus from Europe with an equally reliable 2.0-liter turbodiesel. True, we have few such versions. And it is better to opt for post-styling machines - they have already had childhood illnesses.

Ford Focus II (2004-2011): case history

The second generation Ford Focus became a bestseller even before its official sales. All the work on promotion in the Russian market was done for him by his predecessor, who was in great demand by our compatriots. And the appearance of the Ford Focus II marked a new, better product - the car was distinguished by good-quality finishing materials, good driving properties and a reasonable price, which was provided by the Vsevolozhsk assembly. Sedans, as well as three- and five-door hatchbacks, were produced under St. Petersburg, and station wagons and coupe-convertibles with a hardtop were brought from Europe.

Ford Focus II (2004-2011): case history

I welcome you to the third part of the article devoted to a very interesting car. In, we went over the engines, trim levels and main competitors, and considered the advantages and disadvantages. Today you will find a continuation of the story about Ford Focus 2, part three and final. Here I will describe the problems that I encountered over the entire period of operation and, most importantly, I will give an overall assessment of the reliability of the machine and tell you whether it can even be considered for purchase on the secondary market.

The first MOT I went through with the dealer so that there were no problems with maintaining the warranty, read more. It came out with its consumables and discounts from the salon no more than 5,000 rubles. More maintenance and repair work at the dealer did not.

I'll start with the first replacement, and these were the front brake pads, which I replaced on the 24 thousand run. This was facilitated naturally by an automatic transmission, not a small curb weight of the second Focus of 1362 kg. and a rather active driving style at the time, which the 2.0 engine provoked.

After the end of the two-year warranty on a mileage of a little over 30 thousand kilometers, a roller in the drive of the engine attachment equipment whistled at me. I started surfing the Internet, it turned out - a warranty case. Since the whistle appeared only in winter and only in cold weather, he did not pay attention to it and calmly drove on.

The next replacement is the rear pads (I have disc brakes) and candles for 40 thousand. I bought the candles in advance, since it was on this run that the replacement was put. Having unscrewed the candles, I saw that the factory ones were in good condition and that 20 thousand would have left for sure. But since I had already bought new ones, I decided to replace them. By the way, along with the pads, due to their negligence, I had to lure the brake.

How did I get money

I learned about the word repair on a run of 60 thousand. In winter, a rumble appeared when driving. I did not attach any importance to this, I thought I was again hooked somewhere by the protection and the source of the noise is it. Having driven into the pit, I proceeded to edit the crankcase protection, which I just didn’t do, but the hum didn’t disappear. Of course, I was upset and went to the specialists, who quickly identified the cause and sentenced the front wheel bearings to be replaced. Only 60 thousand, I thought not sickly. The phrase “not sickly” was repeated more than once that day. The first one, when I found out that the bearings are littered with a hub and cost 5,000 rubles. Second, when I was told that the front pads (which had minimal wear) had practically worn out the brake discs.

To buy discs and pads too. Then I thought to walk like that ... I decided to change the whistling roller, the attachment drive belt, at the same time the alternator belt, engine oil and all the filters. I always poured oil, changed it once a year, that is, it worked out every 13-14 thousand kilometers.
This is how I got money for the first time, taking into account that practically nothing was taken from me for work, all together it turned out almost 14 thousand rubles. And they said that one of the front shock absorbers is dripping and they need to be changed. I took a break, saying that Ford had already reached its limit.

I changed the shock absorbers after a few months, put kayaba, they are KYB in a red box, at a price of 5000 rubles. per pair (the dollar then began to grow and cost 38 rubles).

Troubles with constant velocity joints

The next serious investment in my sedan was already 80 thousand. Vibration started during acceleration. I came to a friend, I say so and so, look. He looked at: ball joint, steering ends and axle shaft outboard bearing. Great, I say, I order spare parts from another comrade in Gears and come to replace them. The price of the issue is about 5 thousand, but the most interesting thing is that vibration during acceleration did not disappear, but only slightly decreased.

Oops ... doesn't fit

Still, we figured out the source of vibration - it was the inner CV joint. The original - 7000, analogs from 1800, settled on the Italian Pilenga for a little over two thousand. So, a replacement. Drum roll ... CV JOINT matched on does not fit. The splines did not fit, there were different numbers of them on the axle shaft and on the hinge. I am all upset, I wash the hinge and take it back to the store, it's good that my friend returned the money without any problems. It turns out that now only buy the original. I spat and began to drive on, for about another six months, until the vibrations intensified. By that time, I was morally determined to give 7 rubles for the CV joint.

Drive assembly

And the dollar grew and the hinge was already worth 9,000, and there was still work to be done. I began to look at used Avito, found one option - it was a drive assembly (that is, two hinges and a semi-axle) for a two-liter Ford, it cost 7,000, and as the seller said that he was removed from a car with a mileage of 80,000 km.

I began to look for other options, called the Party Committee, there they found an unoriginal drive assembly for 7 kopecks. I was delighted, said that I take it, especially from 7000 they have free shipping.

My drive arrived at the appointed time, a black X-Trail drove up to the entrance and a courier took out a treacherous green box with the Pilenga inscription from the trunk. I would like to see the expression on my face at that moment. But there is nothing to do, only one option. Only one thing warmed the soul, that the previous time it was not possible to combine the CV joint with the axle shaft, but here everything is assembled. Maybe it will ...
And it rolled, the drive came up, and Ford drove off like new again. And more, until the sale of the Focus, I did not change anything.

Reason for the sale and bottom line

By and large, the car did not let me down, the appearance of malfunctions did not immobilize the car, it always gave me time for a leisurely selection and purchase of parts. Yes, shock absorbers and wheel bearings died a little early on 60 thousand. Only now there are only positive memories of the car.

When I was selling the car, a potential buyer drove it to a service where absolutely no crime was diagnosed. They were surprised that the rear suspension is all native and the next costs of the future owner are expected in twenty thousand. The same applies to the front, only thousands to 100, will require replacement of the stabilizer bars.

Why did he start selling a seemingly good car? I would gladly leave it and put up further with the costs of maintenance and repairs of about 15 thousand a year. But the outlook at work was extremely hazy. And in the near future looming replacement of the hydraulic engine mount (about 5,000 rubles), the steering rack was smoothly dying (the knock on the turned-out wheels became stronger and stronger), even the repair of which would have cost 7 thousand, and the replacement is generally under 30. And a regular summer Michelin tires have already been badly worn out for their approximately 50 thousand mileage. Maybe it would have been enough for another season, but I was planning with my family and would not go on such tires. Replacing rubber with installation and balancing would also take 13-14 thousand from the family budget. Oh, yes, I almost forgot that the next MOT (oil, filters and spark plugs) was coming up, and that's 5000 rubles more.

As a result, the amount of about 35 thousand rubles accumulated, which I really did not want to invest in a car. It was decided to sell!

Is it worth buying

I thought for a very long time before writing even a word in this section, so for someone, indeed, this article can become decisive when buying. This car is generally reliable, the most reliable tandem is considered to be a bunch of a two-liter engine and a four-speed automatic, which rewards the car with decent dynamics and the same fuel consumption, respectively.

Price order

Now let's talk about prices, they start from 200 thousand, for pre-styling cars of the first years of production on mechanics, restyling starts from about 280 - 300 thousand and ends with about 520 thousand, although there are madmen who put their 5-6 year old cars for 600 and even more.
A decent car with two liters and a gun can be found for 420-460 thousand rubles. Most likely it will be either a sedan or a five-door hatchback, since station wagons come across much less often. The mileage will most likely not be strong, but more than 100 thousand.

If we take the cost of spare parts, then, as you understand, they are not cheap, and a car with such mileage will require planned investments all the time. And it seems that I myself am already approaching, and I bring you to the conclusion that the second generation Ford Focus is not the best purchase in the secondary market. But here I ask myself the question, well, if not a Ford, then what can you buy for this money.

What is the alternative

Classmates with a powerful engine and a full-fledged automatic is only a Honda Civic, which will be 2 years older and mileage, respectively, about 200,000 km. If we consider a car with a manual transmission, then here you can still consider the Toyota Corolla, which is also slightly more expensive. The other classmates are described in detail in the article.

If we consider fresher cars for this money. Well, for example, the best-selling Hyundai Solaris / Kia Rio. We look at the ads and see that cars are going for this money (we take naturally 1.6 with automatic transmission) with a mileage of 60-100 thousand, and this is exactly the mileage at which the first serious investments begin.

Therefore, you will spend about the same money on the repair of Ford and Solaris, but do not forget that these are cars of different classes. Ford has a much greater resource, it is a more comfortable, manageable and dynamic car. Therefore, for the same money, it is better to opt for it.

As a result, I will say that this car can be considered for purchase in the secondary market, since you will practically not find similar cars in very rich configurations and with powerful engines. This concludes the story in three parts. I would be glad to leave comments and questions. See you soon on the blog!