Best flush for engine before oil change. Flushing the engine when changing the oil

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The disputes of motorists about the need to flush the engine during the process of changing the lubricant do not subside. The fact is that new cars are still sold significantly less than used ones. Meanwhile, a used car is a lottery. What is the quality of the mixture that splashed in the internal combustion engine - no one knows. This raises questions about the need and materials for the engine cleaning procedure.

Surely, every car owner is interested in which flushing oil is better for a gasoline engine, but he does not always think about when it should be used and why. Therefore, let us dwell briefly on the main theses.

Root causes of motor slagging

The main purpose of cleaning the internal combustion engine from the inside is to remove various contaminants and deposits that impair its performance. The nature of slagging is as follows:

• High operating fluid temperature. Black carbon deposits are most often formed on work surfaces that reach temperatures ranging from 400 to 950 ° C.
• During the operation of the internal combustion engine, the oil composition comes into contact with the products of fuel combustion and air. This leads to the formation of carbonaceous deposits. Even the most does not guarantee the absence of carbon deposits.
• Formation of a thin carbonaceous layer on surfaces with moderate heat. This affects mainly valve stems, the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe cylinders, the inner plane of the pistons and skirts, as well as piston rods and pins.
• Sludge formation. The insoluble resinous and solid substances present in the oil mixture form an emulsion when interacting with gases, water and fuel. Subsequently, it turns into sludge, which leads to an increase in viscosity.

Situations when flushing is required

Before thinking about the best way to flush the engine before changing the oil, it is important to understand the points at which this operation is necessary:

• When changing the brand of lubricant. It is not known to what extent the residues of the previous fluid will be compatible with the new grease, so it is better to use cleaning compounds.
• In the case when the car owner chooses products from even one manufacturer, but with a different viscosity (for example, he previously used synthetics, and now decided to fill in semi-synthetics), it is also worth treating the motor with a detergent composition from the inside.
• After overhaul of the internal combustion engine.
• If there is a suspicion that fuel or coolant has entered the engine.
• If the purchased car has a solid operational experience, while all the information about its service is missing.

Timely cleaning of the engine lubrication system is an effective technological process that can increase the resource of the power unit. The procedure traditionally includes not only washing, but also replacing filters. Some motorists buy, in addition to the air, two oil filters - they are washed with one, and the other is installed before pouring fresh oil.

When is internal combustion engine cleaning not required?

There are special cases when flushing is not required. Moreover, in certain situations, this procedure can even harm, for example:

• If the engine has been brought to an extremely dirty condition. The use of aggressive cleaning methods can aggravate the situation, up to the complete obstruction of the system channels. Therefore, it makes sense to disassemble the internal combustion engine and clean it manually.
• If the car is new, then there is no reason to think about which flushing oil is best for a gasoline engine.
• If a oil filter change and the lubrication was made on time or the owner is confident in the service where maintenance is performed.

In any case, a visual inspection of the mining will help determine the need for cleaning activities. Even if there are not so many deposits, but the oil mixture resembles tar, the motor should be processed. The fact is that it will not be possible to completely drain the grease, 15-20% will always remain in the system, and it is this residue that will be most contaminated.

Available methods: the better to flush the engine before replacing used oil with fresh one

As already mentioned, in especially advanced cases, the motor is disassembled and cleaned by hand. In less difficult circumstances, there are special means for removing deposits in the internal combustion engine:

• Five-minute flushing - it is poured into the system before changing the lubricant and mixed with working off. After that, let the motor run for 5-10 minutes and drain the entire volume of lubricant.
• Preparations with which a certain distance must be traveled - 80-100 km before the moment of replacement, it is poured into the unit. It is recommended to move in moderate mode during the run. Next is the classic procedure for changing the filter and lubricant.
• Flush Oil - This is a standard mineral formulation containing detergents and antiwear additives. This product is the answer to the question of what is the best way to flush the engine before changing the engine oil on a car. The technology of application is to start the car and let it idle for 15-20 minutes, drain the working off and fill the drug in the filling volume. Then start the engine again and let it run for 10-20 minutes, then drain the flush and fill the internal combustion engine with a fresh lubricant.

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The latter method is the most popular among domestic motorists. The range of such products is presented in sufficient quantities, even eminent companies do not consider it shameful to produce preparations for cleaning the power unit.

Finding out which flushing oil is best for a gasoline engine: user ratings

Lukoil

Products from a domestic manufacturer have won prestige among motorists due to their affordable price and high quality. The low viscosity of the mixture effectively removes sludge, dirt and ash deposits from the most inaccessible places.

Despite the cost of only 300 rubles, the drug has several advantages:

• The composition contains phosphorus, zinc and calcium, which prevent oxidation processes in the internal combustion engine.
• The remaining working oil does not lose its viscosity when mixed with flushing.
• Protects system parts from overheating.
• The presence of additives that provide decent anti-corrosion and detergent parameters.

TNK Promo Standard

An effective mineral mixture with antifoam and detergent additives, which allows you to get rid of oxidation products in any climatic conditions. The calcium content is higher than that of competing Lukoil products. The low price of 300 rubles can have a noticeable impact on deciding which flushing oil is better to use for the gasoline engine of your car.

However, there were some drawbacks. Analyzes show an increased sulfur content, which indicates a simple structure of the cleaning agent. Actually, you will not constantly ride it, and in a short period of cleaning the mixture will not have time to age.

Shell helix

The main difference between this product is that it is based on organic solvents. However, you will have to pay for such an option about 600 rubles per liter. However, this amount is justified by efficient and quick cleaning of the engine from carbon deposits and dirt.

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It is especially important that rubber seals do not suffer at all from the effects of the composition, which cannot be said about some analogues.

XADO Verylube

Mineral flushing mixture works both in the oil system of the internal combustion engine and in the transmission. It contains not only a complex of special additives, but also a revitalizant, which compensates for the current wear of the units. The price of a two-liter package is 570 rubles.

Among the additives there are antiwear, detergent-dispersing and extreme pressure elements that help to bring the system to the level of technical purity:

• The low-viscosity base guarantees unhindered circulation of the liquid through the system, as well as the rapid dissolution of clots of contaminants.
• Anti-seize components ensure gentle cleaning even when rinsing for 30-40 minutes.
• Detergents actively clean working surfaces from high-temperature and sludge deposits.

Rosneft Express

One of the most affordable mineral compositions, its cost is at the level of 300-400 rubles for a four-liter canister. If you have not yet decided what is better and more effective to flush the engine before changing the oil, then you should pay attention to this product. He, of course, does not show record results, but it has a number of advantages:

• It is based on a composition of highly effective detergents of both domestic and foreign production.
• The mixture shows good results in cleaning both diesel and gasoline units.
• The composition contains dispersing components that hold insoluble particles of the oil aging product in suspension. This eliminates the blockage of the oil system channels, even with a strong level of contamination.

ZIC Flush

A good flush oil that is produced on a Yubase base for all Zeke lubricants. A four-liter canister will cost 700 rubles. The positive aspects of the composition are expressed by the following parameters:

1. The mixture is safe for plastic sealing parts.
2. Removes sludge and helps to reduce the operating temperature in high-temperature areas of the internal combustion engine.
3. Eliminates the possibility of oxidation of new grease caused by waste residues.

findings

If you listen to the reviews and recommendations of experts, then an important conclusion arises: it is best to change the engine oil after 7500-8000 km of run. This is almost twice as often as advised by automakers. But in this way it will be possible to avoid accelerated wear of the motor. A simple rule must be followed by the owners of all new cars.

For used cars, a flushing procedure is necessary. In the future, you should follow the same recommendations. The range of cleaning products is very wide, both in price range and in quality. Lukoil and XADO Verylube demonstrated good results among domestic products, and Shell Helix among foreign products.

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Let's start with the fact that flushing is needed in order to clean the parts and inner walls of the engine from deposits. What are deposits and what type they are, you can read in the article - Any deposits in the engine can be considered harmful - there should be no deposits in the engine! And in most cases the engine needs to be washed.

There are four main ways to flush the engine.

Method 1. Disassembly of the engine and manual cleaning with rinsing of parts with special means.

At a service station or with a friend in the garage, you can disassemble the engine, clean every part with a technical solvent (diesel fuel, kerosene, solvent, etc.). This method is perhaps the fastest and most effective, but also the most laborious. I'm not talking about the need for a special room - a garage, certain conditions and knowledge. Not every car enthusiast has a warm garage, the ability and skill to disassemble, clean and reassemble an internal combustion engine. That is why there are special means for flushing the engine, which will be discussed below. It should be noted that there are cases when flushing the engine by flushing is harmful and dangerous, as well as starting it in general. Therefore, in some cases, manual engine cleaning is the only option!For example, in this case:

That is, nothing will help here, except how to disassemble and manually clean everything, along the way to analyze the wear and the possibility of further use of this engine.

Method 2. Flushing oils.

Designed for flushing lubrication systems of automobile engines without disassembling them, when changing engine oil. Flushing oils have gained immense popularity in Russia. In the West, in mind of the mentality "why am I going to spend extra money?" flushing oils have not gained much popularity.

Typically, flushing oil is an ordinary mineral oil, the simplest and cheapest oil is mineral water (why should it be expensive? Do not ride it), to which detergents and antiwear additives are added.

Here is the laboratory analysis of Lukoil flushing oil

That is, according to the analysis, we see that antiwear additives (Zinc phosphorus) have been added and detergent neutralizing additives (calcium) have been added. They are added in a much lower content than in standard engine oils. In fact, this flushing is in order to mix with the non-drained residue of old oil (in the crankcase as well as engine parts are still in dirty oil) and to neutralize the acidic environment in the engine. All this merges along with the flushing - this is the main and main purpose of the flushing oil. I'm afraid that it is not capable of washing a dirty engine in sludge or varnish ...

The principle of using flushing oils is approximately the following: They started the car, drove for 10-20 minutes at idle speed, drained the used engine oil, filled in flushing oil in the same filling volume as required by the automaker for engine oil, drove at idle speed for 10-20 minutes, drained the flushing oil and poured fresh oil.

In the west, flushing oils have not taken root and are not in demand, there you will not see flushing oils (for civil vehicles) brands Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc. (BP met in Japan) - manufacturers voice the standard opinion “When using our engine oils, flushing no engine required! " And in their own way, the manufacturers of motor oils are right. If you buy a new car in a car dealership, change the oil more often (sometimes even more often than the official dealer requires), pour good gasoline - then there will be no deposits in the engine! Why waste money? Spend them on ice cream for kids! But unfortunately not everyone has new cars, not everyone got a clean engine, and the intervals are not always strictly observed. It is for such cases that flushing oils exist.

In Russia, flushing oils are presented in a sufficient range. Because demand, in this case, generated supply. For example, a very serious and large domestic company Lukoil does not consider it shameful to produce what the world manufacturers of motor oils disown. The brands Spectrol, Felix, Novoufimsky Refinery, XADO Verylube, Luxe, Volga oil, Sibtek, Unico, Rosneft, G-energy, ZIC, etc. are also represented on the market.

To pour or not to pour flushing oils - decide for yourself! I decided for myself that I did not need them "money down the drain!", And I adhere to the version "with reasonable intervals of change - flushing oils, like flushing, are not needed." But if, for example, you tightened at the change interval or bought a car with an unknown oil change history, flushing oil can help remove the non-draining acid residue.

Method 3. Flushing the oil system or "five minutes".

There are also special flushing "five minutes" that are poured into old oil when changing, the engine is allowed to run for 5-10-20 minutes (read the instructions!) And drained along with the used oil.

There is a generally accepted opinion among motorists in the Internet community - "Flushing" five minutes "- EVIL!" There are horror stories on the forums that "Five minutes wash the pieces that fall off, clog the oil channels, clog the filters, the oil receiver grid and the engine breaks down!" "Five minutes have a detrimental effect on the gaskets and oil seals - and after flushing the engine will certainly" run "" five minutes are not compatible with your future oil, they remain in the crankcase with a non-draining residue and spoil the next oil, as well as your engine. "... I will not argue with these statements, especially since I myself once had the same opinion, I will simply show it clearly and bring the reader to a conclusion. See everything for yourself and with your own eyes!

Again we ask ourselves a question, and who from the manufacturers of motor oils makes five minutes? There are Shell, Valvoline, Wynn’s, Liqui Moly, Motul on sale - that is, some manufacturers, paying attention to the demand of motorists, in this or that country, still release five minutes. I conducted two visual experiments with washes of two well-known and well-respected brands Liqui moly and Motul.

I conducted two visual experiments with washes of two well-known and well-respected brands Liqui moly and Motul.

Experiment 1 rinsing "10-minute" (German name Liqui Moly Pro-Line Motorspulung).

1994 Toyota Curren with 3s-fe engine. The engine is very dirty inside - deposits such as varnish and sludge. We open the valve cover, take pictures of the state under the valve cover - BEFORE... Then we drive with short shift intervals, applying a "five-minute" flush between shifts Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush... For this procedure, we strictly follow the instructions on the bank. If it says "10 minutes at idle speed" then we do it - this is important!

This amateur experiment nevertheless lasted for exactly 1 year. The mode is mainly city traffic jams and some highways. The motor oil was used, which is typical for gasoline engines with API SM, North American Petro-Canada Supreme 5W-30 and Chevron Supreme 5W-30 (semi-synthetic in common people, but in fact mineral water of API group 2.). The same gasoline was used from one filling station.

In this case, the interval between changes of 1500-2000 km is not chosen by chance - for the speed of the experiment and less influence on the experiment of the engine oil itself. 5 washes of the engine oil system were carried out - it took 5 cans. We open the engine and photograph the result

Expexperiment 2 flush 15 minutes with Motul Engine Clean.

The car is the same Toyota Curren '94, the engine is 3s-fe. The mode is the same - the city is 80% and the highway is 20%.

Made 5 shifts, used 5 cans of washing.
Toyota 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean \u003d 3000km
Petro-Canada Supreme 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean \u003d 3000km
Petro-Canada Duron Synthetic 0W30 + Motul Engine Clean \u003d 3000km
Mobil1 0W40 Life + Motul Engine clean \u003d 3000km
Petro-Canada Supreme 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean \u003d 1000km

Comparing photos BEFORE and you can draw certain conclusions about the effectiveness of flushing the oil system.

The reader may wonder “What about the oil filter? He will score! " As shown by opening each filter after each rinsing - they were clean inside - there were no serious accumulations!

And how does the engine feel after such washes? Excellent! Nothing ran or broke anywhere - enough time had passed. Moreover! I did a laboratory analysis of the engine oil for wear metals - the engine showed about zero wear.

Another example from another of our members of the forum Belkovod. A video where it is clearly shown how the five-minute washings are washed. They opened the engine, saw the deposits, collected it back, washed it with a 15-minute flush according to the instructions, and opened it to see "What has changed?" But nothing has changed! This is not a miracle flush. In general, see for yourself in the video:

Method 4. Flushing with engine oil - as the most gentle flushing.

There is also flushing the oil system with ordinary engine oil - in which nothing happens for sure. This flush will be compatible with your engine, oil seals, your future oil, etc.

The method is very simple: fill in your usual motor oil or the cheapest mineral water, the brand that you usually prefer (so as not to waste money), ride on this oil for 500-1000 km and drain. That's all! You can also change the oil filter just in case. But there is one big BUT! Motor oil has a very low detergency! In fact, it can only take out particles that have already come off the walls - and the engine, as it was dirty, will remain so - or it takes a lot of time and thousands of kilometers according to the principle "water wears away a stone". You can sharpen this stone even 500 thousand km - which negates flushing the engine with oil. Do not think that you have filled in oil, skated 1000 km and everything inside you shines. If the deposits are really serious, everything will remain the same! I have devoted a separate article to flushing with engine oil, since I have many years of experience - I set up such experiments.

Output

And so we have listed 4 main ways to flush the oil system. The most important thing is to decide for yourself whether you need to flush the engine?
Take a flashlight, unscrew the oil filler cap, look inside (or rather remove the valve cover). If there is pure metal, then you have a clean engine and most likely you do not need any flushing. The throat walls are the same inner wall of the engine like all the others, moreover, located at the very top. Remember - the flush must have a foundation!

First, we make a diagnosis and answer our question: is the engine dirty or clean? And then we decide to treat or leave it as it is!

It makes no sense to wash a clean engine by flushing "For the sake of prevention"! You are wasting money ... In this case, it is better and more efficient to change the oil not after 10,000 km, but after 7500 km! A clean engine will feel much better than after 10 thousand km with flushes!

Classic Presale Recipe

Then they poured oil into the engine, the thickest oil they could find. The cylinders were not the best and knocked slightly. This was compensated for by the thick grease, the engine was surprisingly quiet.

Erich Maria Remarque

Fierce controversy between supporters and opponents of flushing the engine when changing the oil has recently intensified due to the fact that new cars are now sold in the country much less than used ones. That is, citizens are selling cars to each other, and the renewal of the fleet, which everyone hoped for, has significantly slowed down. Meanwhile, a used car, as you know, is a pig in a poke. The age and quality of the substance that splashed in the engine at the time of sale - only God knows.

From here the theses about the need for flushing immediately follow.

When is no flushing required?

• You are the first and only owner of your car;
• You are always on time (or better - more often);
• You are confident in the service in which the work was carried out (the servicemen did not cheat, not changing the oil at all or replacing it with their own, cheaper one);
• On a long journey, you never had to top up anything.

When is the best time to wash?

You should think about flushing when purchasing a car from your hands, and even with an opaque service history. There are examples of engines in which deposits from the top of the engine can be literally raked out with a shovel. To do this, it is advisable to look into the oil filler neck with a flashlight, and to the side: cunning sellers may well wipe the visible parts of the cylinder head parts with a rag.

Another case is, for example, when switching from mineral water to synthetics.

Flushing options

There are several ways to flush the engine.

Five minute flush. It is poured into the engine before changing the oil, thus mixing with the already used oil. Then the engine is allowed to idle for five (or ten) minutes, the working off is drained, fresh oil is poured in and a new filter is installed.

Flushes with which you can travel some distance. For 100 km of run before the expected change, oil is poured, and during this run they try not to recklessly. Next is the standard oil and filter change.

Flushing oil.With this method, the used oil is drained and a special flushing oil is poured in instead. Allow the engine to idle and drain the flush. They put a new filter and fill in new oil.

Extra portion of oil. A method especially recommended when changing the type of oil base, for example, when changing from mineral to synthetic. It can also be recommended for heavily dirty engines in one of the three ways above. After draining the old product, pour in the oil on which the further operation of the engine is expected.

In this case, the amount of oil can be minimal (two liters), just to go out. In this case, it is also recommended to idle the engine. Then this volume is replaced with new oil with the installation of a new filter. For especially caring owners, there is a modification of this method: new ones, travel for a short time, and then carry out another replacement. In this case, at the intermediate stage, oil will need to be poured at least along the bottom mark.

Keep an eye on the oil pressure when the engine is running on all the above cocktails, except for the case of pouring an extra portion of oil. Be especially careful when flushing diesel and supercharged engines - their specific loads are usually slightly higher and oil starvation is completely unacceptable.

Cheap - angry

On the Internet, on numerous forums, it is proposed to flush engines with diesel fuel, both clean and diluted in half with engine oil. I am of the opinion that fuel is fuel, and it is better to flush the engine using one of the above methods. A solar bath can be very unhelpful for oil seals and other rubber engine seals. This liquid is very aggressive.

• Try not to lose sight of your vehicle during this procedure. This will ensure you have new oil and a new oil filter installed.
• If the previous advice failed, then when receiving the car, check the oil level on the dipstick. The oil should reach the top mark and be light enough. Although in gasoline engines, even after a short period of operation, it may darken somewhat, and in diesel engines it may even turn black. And yet it will be much lighter than before replacement.
• Try to determine if the filter has been replaced. On some cars it is visible from above, on others it is only available with the removal of the mudguard or engine protection. In this case, make sure that there are traces of dismantling on these elements.

From personal experience

I got it once from a good friend. Mileage - about 100 thousand km. I knew the history of the car very well, as I often helped with repairs. There were malfunctions of the suspension (bearings and shock absorbers), the rear brake cylinders were "sugared", the driver's seat was sitting. But now, having become the owner, I decided to look into the engine, adjust the valves. The gaps had to be touched only on a few valves, and then a little bit. And most importantly: I was shocked by the complete absence of deposits under the valve cover. Details were only slightly covered with a light golden touch. And I also teased the former owner that he changes the oil more often than he refills the gas tank! ..

findings

It is best to change the oil at least every 7.5 thousand km, that is, twice as often as recommended by most car manufacturers. In this case, regardless of the operating conditions (city or village), you are guaranteed to avoid accelerated wear of engine parts. Only those who have a "novya" car should immediately follow this rule, and second-hand owners should first carry out flushing operations, as indicated above, and then follow the same recommendations.

More information about engine oil and additives can be found in the collection of publications "Behind the wheel" "Engine oil: what and why pour?"

Dear Readers! In the comments, tell us about your attitude towards flushing the engine. Do you need it? Do you spend?

The question of flushing the engine or not for motorists is one of the most controversial. Some drivers are sure that there is simply no benefit from such a procedure, this is time and money wasted. After the old oil, such motorists immediately fill the engine with a new one. They argue that the main thing is the competent operation of the car, in which carbon deposits and soot simply do not form.

The proponents of the procedure have their own arguments: the quality of fuel at domestic gas stations leaves much to be desired. It has not been cleaned to the required level and, with prolonged use, may well harm motor parts. Therefore, the engine must be washed from time to time.

The procedure becomes mandatory when it comes to the purchased used car. Here, all motorists are in solidarity: flushing the engine with flushing oil is required. You should not expect the truth from the seller, for the sake of economy, a person could fill in the cheapest liquids, or high-quality ones, but how many they drove - you don't know, maybe he has repeatedly exceeded the term of use.

Ideally, a new oil filter should be installed during flushing. Frequent refueling changes are another good reason to arrange preventive procedures for the motor.

Replacing one oil with another should also be accompanied by cleaning the engine. Otherwise, the remnants of the previous one can react with the new one, and it is unrealistic to predict the consequences of such interaction.

However, there are times when flushing oil is not required. Here they are:

• purchasing a completely new vehicle from the salon;
• the car had a single owner who always bought good quality oil and changed it regularly;
• when there is 100% confidence in the quality and proper purification depth of the purchased fuel. It is clear that this item is more of a fantastic one.

Conventional motor oil

So, there are situations when flushing cannot be avoided. How to choose a liquid for the procedure? The market is overflowing with a variety of product offerings and it is easy for even an experienced motorist to get confused. We will consider the most affordable and effective options, their pros and cons.

Yes, you can use it and not spend money on additional funds. It's all about procedural nuances. High-quality oil is poured into the car, but it is not necessary to drive it all the distance declared by the manufacturer, but only a third. Thus, old dirt and deposits will be washed off, new ones will not collect yet, even the surface of the cylinder-piston group will be transformed. This is a gentle cleaning, it takes time, but it will not harm the details 100%, because there are no hard abrasive elements in the oil. As a rule, it is enough to drive 3 thousand kilometers. Slag and deposits from the oil channels will disappear, the oil receivers will be cleaned. Everything will happen gradually. The liquid that has absorbed the burn is drained, replaced with new oil. You can easily drive 10 thousand km on it if we are talking about a gasoline engine and up to 8 thousand if about a diesel one.

"Working off" is drained, flushing is poured. It is a liquid made from mineral oils with a large amount of additives to provide a detergent effect. The product is poured into the engine, it runs at idle for about a quarter of an hour. That's all, the cleaning liquid can be drained and regular oil introduced. It can be synthetics, semi-synthetics, and mineral water. Of course, it is better to purchase “washing” from specialized dealers, the quality assurance in this case is very important. "Palenka" at least will not clean the engine, at most, it can harm it. Another recommendation is to stick to one brand. That is, purchase oil and flushing from a similar brand. Such fluids will definitely not conflict, they are designed to optimize each other's action.

Liquid-five minutes

Should you use a product that promises great results in five minutes? At first glance, such a proposal seems dubious. In fact, the procedure is certainly longer. A special concentrate of detergent additives is added to the oil to be replaced. On such a train, you need to drive about 200 kilometers or stand with the engine running for 10 minutes. Then, as usual, drain the contents, add new oil. Only a highly abrasive diesel agent can provide such a high-speed cleaning effect. Aggressive additives and solvents can damage gaskets and corrode valves. The harmful effect may persist for some time - when draining, it will not be possible to completely get rid of the “flushing”, its remnants are mixed with new oil. The speed also does not contribute to the quality of cleaning - only light fractions are washed out, heavier slags, a large amount of paraffins, resins remain. They can be removed exclusively mechanically - the pallet is removed from the motor, the valve cover - it is better to entrust all this to the masters of the service station.

Caring for a new car is done a little differently.

It is enough to flush a new engine every couple of scheduled technical inspections, which are usually carried out after 10 thousand kilometers traveled.

This is a good prevention of deposits. Of course, they will still be, but in minimal quantities, which will significantly extend the life of the motor.

Which oil is best? Choosing a flushing fluid

The products on the market are made on a mineral or semi-synthetic basis. Even experts find it difficult to answer which is better. There are also synthetic options. The client chooses them according to the principle - only the best for my car. This is a marketing game on consumer psychology, because new cars do not need powerful flushing agents.

In general, flushing should be selected for oil: that is, semi-synthetics for semi-synthetics, mineral water for mineral water. Car manufacturers also indicate in user manuals which additives are best for flushing the engine. You should pay attention to these recommendations first of all.

It is not always advisable to use “flushing”, even if the distance traveled requires it. To determine, you need to unscrew the oil filler neck, remove the valve cover and shine a flashlight inside. Pure metal is visible - additional procedures are not needed yet. There is soot on the walls - it's time to go to the store for "washing". Here are the positions most often preferred by domestic motorists:

1. ZIC. South Korean product. In addition to excellent detergent properties, it prevents corrosion (prevents parts from oxidizing), well dampens lubricant foaming. The agent treats gaskets and seals with care. its regular use prolongs the life of the propulsion and transmission systems.
2. Rosneft. It is a Russian mineral oil with foreign additives. Suitable for both gasoline and diesel units, easily dissolves carbon deposits and deposits. Greatly helps drivers who decide to change mineral lubricating oil after long-term use.
3. Spectrol. Also a Russian product for diesel and gasoline systems. Perfectly removes sediment accumulated after prolonged use of engine oil. Does not have an abrasive effect on engine components.
4. Liqui Moly. German remedy. Very popular on the Russian market, although not too cheap. Consumers value the fluid for its reliability and efficiency.
5. TNK. Designed for vehicles of domestic assembly. Russian mineral washing with additives, including antifoam. Customer reviews of this product are mostly good.

Also, consumers trust the brands Lukoil, Xado, Felix, Motul and some others. But it is important to remember that even the most advanced flushing oil must be properly filled.

Algorithm of work with "flushing"

Prepare directly liquid, container for waste oil, rags, oil filter. Ideally, drive the car onto a lift.

Work can only start when the engine has cooled down.

Under the bottom there is a drain plug. Unscrew, substitute the container. The source will run for about half an hour. Then the lid can be screwed on and the flushing agent added. Replace the oil filter with a new one. Drive on flushing fluid for several days, but avoid loads and high speed. The draining procedure is repeated, the oil filter will have to be changed again. Fill with fresh engine oil. After such hygienic measures, it is recommended that the subsequent oil change be made in a time shortened by half. That is, not after 10, but after 5 thousand km, for example. But the choice, of course, is for the driver. And the easiest option is to entrust all the care to the employees of the branded service station.

Often, when changing the oil, car owners ask themselves: is it necessary to flush the engine before filling in new oil? And most of them answer this question in the affirmative.

Naturally, mechanics in car services do not even think to dissuade such customers from washing, and many advise it additionally, even insist, although the client did not ask for such a service. They begin to describe in paints and in detail all the deposits that have accumulated in the engine over the years of operation, as well as tell what effect the washing procedure will give. But is it possible to objectively assess the words of a person who is interested in selling us as many goods and services as possible? And there are hardly many really good auto mechanics who really understand cars and understand what is useful and necessary for them and what is not.

The topic of flushing is relevant for any car owner, because there is hardly one who has not thought of this idea. But, despite the relevance and popularity of this topic, there are much more questions than answers. More precisely, an ordinary motorist usually does not have enough information about the processes occurring during flushing in order to make the right decision. And auto mechanics are far from always competent or want to educate the client so that he would spend as much money as possible in their car service. In this article, we will consider the engine flushing mechanism, its main types, and also give some recommendations on how to carry out this procedure.

Flushing process

Before delving into the conversation about which flushing of the engine is better, you need to understand the process itself. So, you are about to change the oil in your car, but before that you decide to "clean" the engine. To do this, you come to a service station, where the auto mechanic advises you to use a good expensive engine wash fluid for this.

Important! It must be understood that when draining the flushing fluid (as well as when draining the engine oil itself), it does not completely drain from the engine. It accumulates in various channels, cavities, cracks and other "irregularities" on the internal surfaces of the engine. Usually, its content reaches from 5 to 20% of the total engine volume.

Now we have found out that when the motor is flushed with a special agent, it does not completely drain and some part of it remains inside. So, in an average 1.6-liter car, approximately 400 ml of flushing fluid will remain. Equally important, this liquid will not be clean, but mixed with what your engine should have gotten rid of: old, dirty oil and other contaminants.

Why is it dangerous

Most motorists should understand what modern engine oil is. Such a liquid, relatively speaking, is a mixture of a base (or base) oil with various additives. Actually, the presence and quantity of additives in the present determines its class, price and possible operating conditions. Each manufacturer strives to achieve the most successful combination of them. There are many types of different additives, the most important of which are:

• viscous;
• anti-foam;
• anti-corrosion;
• antioxidant;
• washing;
• etc.

Now try to imagine what happens to the engine oil that is added to the engine, which is a quarter filled with flushing fluid and slags. Quite right, nothing good. The main negative consequence is the "dilution" of the oil. Now your engine has a composition that contains less additives per unit volume than you expected. This means that such oil will behave quite differently than you are used to; some of its properties will either disappear altogether or become less pronounced. That is, the likelihood that a breakdown may occur with the engine increases. The possible consequences of driving on "diluted" oil include:

• foaming it;
• the appearance of an emulsion;
• too fast development of a resource;
• insufficient lubricity;
• etc.

But most an important problem, naturally, is the reduction in the viscosity of the composition.This indicator of engine oil is responsible for the density of the composition and its change depending on temperature. Also, according to the viscosity parameters, you can roughly determine the service life of the engine oil, so it decreases with dilution.

Obviously, the more flushing fluid left inside the engine, the greater the difference between expected and actual viscosity after priming. For example, if you fill in engine oil with a viscosity of 5W-40, then in fact you will get at least 5W-30 in the engine, or even an even lower viscosity value.

How and when to flush the engine

Before proceeding to the answer to the question "what is the best way to flush the engine before changing the oil," let's figure out when, in general, it is worth carrying out this procedure with your car. Since we found out that flushing the engine also has its negative consequences, it is still not recommended to do it before each replacement. You should also not do this on new cars, because good, branded oil is poured into them at the factory (including so that you continue to fill it in afterwards). Those who are worried about low-quality oil "from the factory" or "from the salon" should not be listened to.

Advice! Do not flush the engine before every oil change, especially on a new car.

However, this advice is relevant only for those car owners who monitor the condition of their car and regularly replace all technical fluids.

In what cases is an oil change desirable and even necessary? There are few of them:

• First, it is imperative to flush the engine when changing from one type of oil to another. For example, when switching from synthetics to semi-synthetics, from summer to winter, or when replacing formulations with a large difference in viscosity (5W-40-15W-40).
• Secondly, it is better to flush the engine when buying a used car. Buying a used car is always a bit like a pig in a poke, so it won't be superfluous to play it safe and flush the motor (just like replacing all other fluids and consumables).
• Thirdly, at risk are machines subject to intensive use or operation in harsh environmental conditions.
• Fourth, turbocharged engines. Engines equipped with turbines require good, clean oil. Otherwise, the turbine can fail and seriously hit the wallet. Therefore, flush the turbocharged engines every two to three oil changes.

Having dealt with when flushing the engine is definitely necessary, we will figure out the best way to flush the engine when changing the oil. There are four traditional methods of replacement:

• Diesel fuel

I would like to note right away that diesel fuel is not a specialized agent for flushing gasoline / diesel engines. Our fathers and grandfathers used it, washing their VAZs, GAZs and other Soviet cars. In our time, there are many followers who wash domestic cars with diesel fuel. In general, flush the engine with diesel fuel strongly discouraged, especially when it comes to a foreign car. Not only can the effect of diesel oil on the oil seal, gaskets and seals contribute to their destruction, but it also further contaminates the engine. If you are still interested in this method of flushing the engine, then the following video will help you understand all its intricacies:

• Five minutes

This is the name of the funds that are added to the old oil five minutes before it is drained and then replaced. The motor should run for these five minutes. Manufacturers claim that their formulations do clean the engine in such a short time. It is much more difficult to confirm their words than to refute, therefore we do not dare to advise this method. If the benefits of it are very dubious, then damage to the oil seals and seals can be quite real.

• Flushing liquid

We have already spoken about its shortcomings in detail above: it remains in the engine and "dilutes" the new engine oil, thereby changing its properties.

• Flushing oil

Perhaps the most the best flush for an engine is an oil flush. For its implementation, inexpensive engine oil is usually bought in a large enough amount (so that it is enough for at least 2 fillings). Some motorists mix the engine oil with the flushing fluid in a one-to-one ratio at the first flush. In principle, before flushing the engine with oil, you can flush it with a liquid, and then displace its residues with oil. Of course, after flushing, some of the oil will remain in the engine. But unlike liquid flushing or no flushing, this will be clean engine oil.

Outcome

Summing up, I would like to advise again do not flush the engine before changing the oil unless your vehicle is used too often or under severe conditions. For its normal operation, timely replacement of the oil and oil filter, as well as careful operation, will be sufficient. If you still have any questions about flushing the engine before changing the oil, watch this video: