Auto brand high pressure in the cooling system. Injection brand - srvt description

Figure: 30. Engine cooling system:
1 - plug body; 2 - pump drive pulley; 3 - bearing assembly with a shaft; 4 - stop ping, 5 - pump casing; 6 - a sealing cuff; 7 - impeller; 8 - bypass pipe; 9 - pump assembly; 10 - hose to the heater radiator; 11 - tee; 12 - hose to the expansion tank; 13, 20 and 34 - gaskets; 14 - branch pipe; 15 - supply hose; 16 - hose from the thermostat; 17 - thermostat; 18 - outlet hose; 19 - radiator hose; 21 - pin; 22 - fan motor; 23 - spacer sleeve; 24 - shock absorber bushing; 25 - casing; 26 - impeller; 27 - steam outlet hose; 28 - retainer; 29 - radiator; 30 - bushing; 31 - front tape; 32 - back tape; 33 - expansion tank; 35 - valve block.

Device. The car uses a liquid engine cooling system with forced circulation of liquid by a centrifugal pump. The cooling system is of a closed type, i.e. its communication with the atmosphere occurs only through the valve block, which opens at a certain pressure or vacuum in it. To compensate for the change in the volume of the coolant, an expansion tank is used.
The thermal regime of the engine is monitored by the temperature of the coolant, the sensor of which is installed on the cylinder head, and the thermometer on the instrument panel. The use of a liquid cooling system of this type provides the most advantageous thermal regime of the engine, which increases its durability and improves efficiency.
The cooling system (Fig. 30) consists of an engine cooling jacket, a thermostat, a coolant pump, a radiator, and an electric fan. The heat exchanger of the body interior heater is also connected to it, the fluid circulation through which is regulated by valve 12 (see Fig. 31). At the factory, the system is filled with an aqueous solution of Tosol liquid, which has anti-corrosion properties. In addition, this liquid is not prone to foaming, sedimentation and evaporation, and at low temperatures does not turn into ice. Its boiling point at normal atmospheric pressure is 108 ° C. In the warm season (when the ambient temperature is above 0 ° C), water can also be used as a cooling liquid with the addition of the drug "Avtoantenakipin". Cooling system capacity (with body heater heat exchanger) 7 l.
When the cooling system is operating, the liquid, depending on the position of the thermostat valves and the heater start valve, can circulate in three circles shown by arrows in Fig. 31.

Fig. 31. Scheme of the engine cooling system:
1 - radiator; 2 - sensor for switching on the fan motor; 3 - electric fan; 4 - radiator drain plug; 5 - gauge for the coolant temperature gauge; 6 - pump; 7 - engine; 8 - inlet pipeline; 9 - plug of the expansion tank; 10 - expansion tank; 11 - engine drain plug; 12 - heater tap; 13 - heater; 14 - thermostat; red arrows - fluid circulation in a large circle; blue arrows - fluid circulation in a small circle; white fluid circulation when the heater tap is open.

The engine cooling jacket consists of cavities and ducts obtained by casting. They are located in the cylinder block, cylinder head and intake manifold. In the gaskets, the joints are sealed, holes are made for the passage of the coolant. The coolant carries the generated heat away from the outer surfaces of the cylinder walls, combustion chambers, plug seats, bushings and valve seats.
The fluid coming out of the cylinder head is used to heat the air in the passenger compartment when the heat exchanger tap is open, as well as to heat the carburetor mixing chamber in the intake manifold to improve its mixture formation. The liquid, having got into the heat exchanger of the radiator, is cooled, giving off its heat through the thin walls of its tubes to the air passing through it.
The liquid level in the expansion tank on a cold engine at a temperature of 15 ... 25 ° C should be 20 ... 30 mm above the mark on the expansion tank.
Periodically check the density of the Tosol coolant with a densimeter at a temperature of 20 ° C. At a low density (below 1.075 g / cm3 and at a high (more than 1.095 g / cm3), the temperature of the beginning of liquid crystallization rises. This can lead to its freezing in the cold season. If the level in the tank is below normal, it is necessary to add boiled or distilled water. If the density is normal, it is necessary to add liquid of the same brand as in the cooling system. If the density of the liquid in the cooling system is below normal, and the car will be operated in the cold season, then it is necessary replace the coolant.

The TC 103-04 thermostat ensures normal thermal conditions of the engine. A thermostat (fig. 32) is installed between the rubber pipes connecting the engine to the radiator. The thermostat has two inlet pipes, and the pipe 1 is connected with a hose through a tee to the outlet pipe on the cylinder head, and the pipe 4 is connected to the lower radiator tank.

Figure: 32. Thermostat:
1 - inlet pipe from the engine; 2 - outlet branch pipe; 3 - valve; 4 - inlet pipe from the radiator; 5 - thermosensitive element; 6 - main valve spring; 7 - 32 spring of the bypass valve; 8 - bypass valve; A - fluid inlet from the engine; B - fluid inlet from the radiator; h is the stroke of the bypass valve.

Figure: 33. Engine cooling pump:
1 - gasket; 2 - locking screw; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - shaft; 5 - cuff body; 6 - rubber seal; 7 - spring; 8 - graphite ring; 9 - pulley of the pump for coolant; 10 - hole for draining the liquid; 11 - annular groove on the shaft; 12 - case; 13 - impeller; I - pump cavity; II - pump cuff.
Figure: 34. Radiator of the cooling system:
1 - tube; 2 - tank sealing gasket; 3 - left radiator tank; 4 - foldable mustache of the bottom of the tank; 5 - radiator turbulator; 6 - cooling plates; 7 - the bottom of the tank.

The outlet nozzle 2 is connected with a hose and a metal nozzle with an inlet to the coolant pump.
Thermosensitive element 5 of the thermostat consists of a glass pressed into the main valve 3, which is pressed against the seat by a spring 6. Bypass valve 8 is installed in a cage and is supported by a spring 7.
The temperature of the beginning of the opening of the main valve is 8 7 ° C + 2 ° C. When the coolant temperature is below the specified, the main valve 3 closes the liquid outlet from the radiator, while the bypass valve 8 is open and connects the liquid outlet from the engine to the pump inlet.
If the temperature of the coolant rises, the solid filling of the thermosensitive element expands and, overcoming the resistance of the spring, moves the glass with the main valve upwards. The bypass valve 8, pressed by the spring 7, opens the liquid passage from the engine to the water pump with the bottom of the glass. When the coolant temperature is more than 94 ° C, the main valve 3 is fully open and the coolant circulates through the radiator.
At intermediate temperatures, fluid circulates through both the main valve and the bypass valve. This ensures that the cool fluid is gradually mixed with the hotter fluid than the best conditions for engine operation are achieved.
The coolant pump (fig. 33) is mounted on the front of the right side of the cylinder block. It is driven by a flat toothed belt from the crankshaft drive pulley. The gear ratio of the driving and driven pulleys is 1: 1. Vane-type centrifugal pump. Cast iron driven pulley 9 and impeller 13 with seven spiral blades are pressed onto shaft 4 with an interference fit.
The coolant pump body 12 is die-cast from an aluminum alloy. The pump is fastened through the gasket 1 to the crankcase with three bolts. The pump shaft 4 rotates in a double-row non-separable bearing 3, which is moisture and dirt resistant and does not require replenishment of lubricant during operation. The bearing is secured against longitudinal movement relative to the water pump housing with a screw 2.
Collar II, which prevents fluid from seeping to the bearing, consists of a housing, a rubber seal, an expansion spring and a graphite ring. The friction pair in the collar is the graphite ring and the impeller end. To protect the bearings from liquid accidentally seeping through the cuff, an annular groove 11 is made on the pump shaft between the cuff and the bearing, from which, during its rotation, the liquid is dumped and flows out through the hole 10 in the pump housing. A noticeable leakage of fluid through this hole indicates a pump malfunction. It must be remembered that a blockage can lead to failure of the pump bearings.

The radiator (fig. 34) is made of aluminum tubes with aluminum washers pressed onto them. The ends of the tubes are flared in metal support plates and sealed with rubber seals. The plastic side radiator tanks are tightly attached to the base plates with bendable tendrils and are sealed with rubber seals. A sensor for turning on the engine of the electric fan of the cooling system and a plug for draining the coolant are screwed into the right radiator tank. The left tank is cast together with three nozzles for
connections with hoses to parts of the cooling system. The tanks have three threaded bosses. The casing of the electric fan is bolted to these bosses through rubber shock-absorbing bushings.

The radiator is installed in the front part of the engine compartment on a cross-beam. There are two holes for fixing the radiator on the traverse, in which the radiator is fixed through rubber bushings (shock absorbers). In the upper part, the radiator is fastened with a bolt passing through the fan casing to the shelf of the radiator grille.
The electric fan of the engine cooling system increases the air flow through the radiator and therefore the heat transfer. The design of the electric fan and the wiring diagram are described in Sec. "Electrical equipment".
The impeller is four-bladed, made of plastic.
On the motor shaft, the impeller hub is fixed with a spring clip and locked with a pin. The electric fan is located in the casing and is bolted to the radiator.
The valve block is installed in the expansion tank of the cooling system and is held in it by the plug body. The valve block is used to maintain excess pressure in the cooling system, thereby providing a higher boiling point of the liquid. The valve block consists of a body in which the parts of the inlet and outlet pressure in the system are located above 0.12 + 0.01 MPa. The inlet valve opens when there is a vacuum in the cooling system. If tightness is lost in the valve block, the valve must be replaced.
The car can be equipped with a coolant level sensor complete with a new (by design) instrument cluster. The sensor is installed in the expansion tank. When the liquid level in the expansion tank drops below the permissible level, the contact plug (float) drops to the lowest position on the sensor rod and turns on the indicator lamp (orange) for the liquid level.
Maintenance.
Maintenance of cooling systems consists only in periodically checking the liquid level in the expansion tank, which should always (on a cold engine) be 30 mm higher than the lower mark made on the wall of the tank.

After the first 5 thousand kilometers of a new car, you should carefully check the tightness of all joints. If drops or slight moisture are found on the joints, tighten the joints.
Every 15 thousand km of run it is necessary to check the tightness of joints and seals. If necessary, add Tosol A-40M to the cooling system to the required level. In the absence of Tosol A-40M liquid (only in case of emergency), clean water, preferably boiled or distilled, can be added to the system, while adhering to the following order: with a cold engine, remove the plug from the expansion tank and add water so that its level is above the lower marks on the expansion tank by 20 ... 30 mm.

Every 60 thousand km of run or not earlier than after 4 years (whichever comes first), it is necessary to flush the cooling system and fill in new Tosol A-40M fluid. As a last resort, if necessary, if there is no Tosol A-40M liquid, you can pour clean water into the system. It should be borne in mind that in winter, the water must be drained.

Figure: 35. Black valve plug of the expansion tank of the engine cooling system, assy:

1 - spring plate of the exhaust valve; 2 - inlet valve spring; 3 - a rod of the inlet valve; 4 - intake valve gasket; 5 - inlet valve; 6 - valve body; 7 - exhaust valve gasket; 8 - outlet valve spring.
Figure: 36. Coolant level sensor:
1 - connecting plug; 2 - sensor body; 3 - expansion tank; 4 - rod; 5 - contact plug.

Attention. When changing the fluid in the system, the heater switch (in the body compartment) must be open.
Every 60 thousand km of run, it is necessary to check the operation of the thermostat, valve block and coolant level sensor (if installed on the car).
Replacing the coolant.
This operation must be performed in the following sequence:
- remove the cap of the expansion tank and open the heater valve in the passenger compartment;
- remove the engine mudguard (right) by unscrewing two screws and one nut;
- clean the places adjacent to the drain plug of the right radiator tank (in the lower part) and to the drain plug on the cylinder block (the plug is located in the lower part of the first cylinder near the water pump cavity) from dust and dirt. On cars of earlier releases (before 1990), the drain plug of the fluid from the cylinder block is located under the exhaust manifold on the left side in the direction of the vehicle;
- put tanks under the radiator cap and the cylinder block plug;
- unscrew the radiator drain plug and drain the fluid, then unscrew the plug on the cylinder block and also drain the fluid. After the end of draining, tighten the plugs.
Fill the engine cooling system with clean water through the filler neck of the expansion tank to the normal level and screw on the tank cap. Start the engine and warm it up at medium crankshaft speed. Let the engine run for 3..5 minutes. Then stop the engine and drain the water. Refill the system with clean water and repeat the operation.
Then you need to stop the engine, drain the water and fill the system with the recommended coolant. Start the engine and let it idle for 1 ... 2 minutes to remove air locks. After the engine has cooled down, check the fluid level, if it is below normal and there are no leaks in the system, add fluid to normal.
In northern regions, where the coolant is cold for a long time, it ages more slowly. Therefore, after the warranty period of the coolant service (60 thousand km of vehicle mileage), it can still be operated, having previously checked its quality. If the fluid is free of dirt and oil and remains blue, you can check its density. If necessary, bring the density to normal and use the liquid for another year. Repeat the check after a year of operation.
Checking the operation of the thermostat. This operation consists in checking the opening temperature of the main valve and checking the stroke of the bypass valve. For this, the thermostat is removed from the engine and placed in a tank with technical glycerin or coolant and fixed on the bracket. The indicator leg is attached to the bottom of the thermostat bypass valve 8 (see Fig. 32).
The initial temperature of the liquid should be 78 ... 80 ° C. The temperature of the liquid is then gradually increased at a rate of about 1 ° C. 35 per minute with constant stirring.
The temperature at which the valve starts opening is taken as the temperature at which the bypass valve travel is 0.1 mm. This temperature should be 87 + 2 ° C. At 102 ° C, the bypass valve travel must be at least 8 mm. The thermostat must be replaced if the valve opening start temperature is not within 8 7 + 2 ° С or the bypass valve stroke is less than 8 mm at 102 ° С.
The simplest check for a thermostat malfunction can be done by touching directly on the car. After starting a cold engine with a working thermostat, the lower radiator pipe should heat up when the coolant temperature reaches 87 + 2 ° C. In this case, the arrow of the coolant temperature gauge should be between 80 ... 100.
Increased coolant consumption.
Causes of malfunction and remedies:
- the valve block (Fig. 35) of the expansion tank plug is faulty. Check the valve opening pressure, which should be within the range (0.12 + 0.01 MPa). Replace the plug if necessary;
- Damaged expansion tank plug gasket. Replace the gasket with a new one;
- damage to the cuff of the liquid pump, fluid flow through hole 10 (see Fig. 33) to drain the fluid. Remove the liquid pump from the engine, disassemble, replace the cuff with a new one and check the pump;
- the radiator is damaged. Check the radiator for leaks and locate the fluid leaks. If a leak is found on the seal of the tubes with a rubber gasket on the reservoir, it can be eliminated by pressing in the bending tabs 4 of the bottom 7 of the reservoir (see Fig. 34). To do this, you need to install a reliable stop under the bottom of the tank so as not to deform it and slightly squeeze the mustache on the tank in places where the fluid is leaking. If a leak occurs through damaged pipes 1, it is necessary to repair the radiator by disassembling and installing repair pipes of a smaller diameter, followed by their mandrel (pressing with a mandrel, that is, increasing the diameter of the pipes);
- damage to gaskets in the joints of the cooling system pipelines. Check and replace damaged gaskets;
- cylinder head bolts are loose or in a non-recommended order. Tighten the cylinder head bolts with the specified tightening torque and in the correct order;
- fluid leaks in the heater radiator and through the connections of the engine cooling system with the heater. Eliminate radiator leaks in the same way as on the radiator of the cooling system, eliminate leaks in the connection.
Checking the operation of the coolant level sensor (Fig. 36). A serviceable sensor should, when the liquid level in the tank drops below the permissible level, turn on the warning lamp on the instrument cluster. The new instrument cluster is equipped with this indicator lamp (orange). If the test lamp does not turn on, remove the liquid level sensor from the tank and check it. On the sensor rod, the float must move without jamming and not be damaged. Check the contact connection on the sensor head and on the plug. Clean contaminated contacts. If the float or plug is damaged, replace the sensor with a new one.

What part of the car is one of the first to fail when cold weather sets in? I suggest, the correct answer is stove (heater) radiator... I think that you will agree with me ... You can, of course, recall the sour (current) stove tap, oak (burst) cooling radiator pipes, the cooling radiator itself, or finally the thermostat. But, all of them are inferior to the primacy bar to the stove radiator))). Legendary Ukrainian Tavria and Slavuta is no exception. The problem with the leaking stove is familiar to them. True, I can immediately please and reassure the happy owners of ZAZ 1102-1105, if the carpets in the cabin become wet from antifreeze or you have installed such a device under the torpedo as in photo number one, then you should not be very upset. Let me explain why. First, there is a stove radiator for your swallow "penny". Secondly, you can buy it in almost any store. Thirdly, replace the heater radiator on Tavria or Slavuta maybe even a child and even very quickly. And it's not a joke. You can be convinced of this when you read the article to the end. There is truth, not much, but ... For any repairs, cars ZAZ 1102-1105, Tavria, Slavuta we have to remember the design engineers of the Zaporozhye Automobile Plant))). And even here, with all the simplicity of the design of the heating system and the ease of replacing the stove radiator, our lads could not help but leave a small surprise for auto repairmen and motorists who like to pick their iron friend on their own)))). But first things first!

About spare parts .... Since on Tavriyakh and Slavutakh stand stove (heater) radiators from VAZ-2108 , then you will have a very large choice. You can stop at a high-quality Russian-made radiator (VIS, DAAZ, LUZAR) or save as much as possible, go on an adventure and buy a Chinese product - LSA, AT, Roadmap. The choice is always yours. As for the recommendations, for example, I very often opt for the "golden mean" - on radiators manufactured by "LUZAR". Not expensive and high quality.

Also, when buying a stove radiator (heater), you should also think about the coolant. That is, decide what we will pour into the cooling system after replacing the radiator - old antifreeze or water, new antifreeze (or antifreeze). If the radiator leaks and you had to top up with water, then it would be best to fill in a new coolant, especially if winter is on the doorstep or has already come (as the law of meanness, the radiator flows exactly when the first frost occurs). Let me remind you that the cooling system of Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 cars includes 7 liters of antifreeze .

The tool that comes in handy when independently replacing the radiator of the stove (heater) on Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105 cars: wrench 14, socket wrench 10, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, container for draining the coolant.

And smoothly, we go to the main thing - description of replacing the stove radiator (heater) on cars Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 with your own hands:

1. First of all, using a key for 14, you should unscrew the drain plug on the cylinder block (photo 2) and drain the antifreeze (or whatever you have filled in there) into a previously prepared container. If you decide to replace the coolant together with the radiator, then it is necessary to drain the liquid from the cooling radiator. To do this, find and unscrew the drain plug on the radiator in the lower right corner (photo 3).

2. Next, you need to unscrew the clamps of the two radiator pipes of the stove. You can see their location in photos 4 and 5. Isn't it a very convenient place? How well the clamps are hidden! This is about this unpleasant surprise, as I said above. You can, of course, try to twist them with a screwdriver or a spanner wrench and at the same time remember that in the same manner, you will have to tighten them. As they say, if you suffer for a long time, then something will work out! Or you can do it easier, as a last resort, I do so.

3. First, unscrew the pipe clamp that goes to the stove tap (photo 6). We remove the pipe. Next, unscrew the clamp and remove the branch pipe from the water distribution pipe (photo 7).

4. We climb into the car, first from the driver's side. We disconnect the wires from the additional resistance of the stove electric motor (photo 8) and power supply (photo 9). We unscrew the fastening bar that goes from the torpedo to the heater body, if there is one, of course (photo 10)

5. With a socket, with an extension cord, with a 10 key, unscrew the two nuts of the heater body (photo 11). Please note that these hairpins "hang" massive wires, when assembling, do not forget to return them to their place. We unscrew the same two nuts on the right, passenger side (photo 12).

6. The stove body is lowered down and slightly towards itself. Now, access to the radiator pipes of the stove is more convenient (photo 13). We unscrew them. It remains only to unscrew the three self-tapping screws (photo 14) and pull out the stove radiator from the body. That is, it is not necessary to remove the heater housing from the passenger compartment. We do everything on the spot. Installing a new radiator. And we carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

That's all! Replacement of the stove radiator (heater) on Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105 cars was successful and fast. For 1-1.5, you can cope with this task without unnecessary haste))).

When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!

In the system, the coolant is under an excess pressure of about 1-1.5 atm. This is necessary in order to increase the boiling point of the antifreeze and reduce the formation of air bubbles inside the system. It is because of the intense formation of bubbles that the heat removal from the engine deteriorates, the level of antifreeze in the tank can greatly increase, and the engine overheats. I repeat once again, excess pressure in the cooling system is necessary for the normal operation of the Tavria cooling system.

For engines with a volume of 1.1 and 1.2 liters, a thermostat with an opening temperature of 87 degrees is required. I am using a Vernet thermostat. The main thing is not to buy a fake, usually a fake is much cheaper than a real one, and you cannot distinguish them by their appearance. Before installing the thermostat, I recommend that you "weld" it in water and use a thermometer to control the temperature at which its valve starts to open (87 degrees). The start of the valve opening can be seen by the fact that water begins to flow through the thermostat. Next, you need to make sure that the valve opens completely when the water is heated further (boiling) and that it closes completely after the water cools down.

I use the radiator fan switch (carlson) sensor at 92/87 degrees. Experience has shown that it is good both for urban traffic jams and for rural or Crimean mountain roads. The fan usually turns on for a short time, perhaps a little more often than hotter sensors, but this does not bother. Another plus of such a sensor is that in the heat it helps to fight gasoline boiling - the fan blows around the gas pump and carburetor better.

The expansion tank and lid are very important details. The lid should be tightly screwed onto the tank to create excess pressure in the system (I wrote about this at the beginning). The lid has a valve that opens at a pressure of about 1.5 atm and communicates the system with the atmosphere. I decided to check the opening moment and connected the tank to the compressor, at 1.5 atm there was a loud "chmikh" and the pressure in the tank dropped to 1.2 atm. So it works! This is an important point, otherwise from overpressure it can break through the system somewhere. With a warm engine, the pressure can be estimated by hand squeezing a thick pipe near the thermostat. It should be firm and only slightly squeezed by hand.

Flushing the cooling system can be useful if there is a rusty substance in the cooling system or the thermostat is stuck. I used a chemical wash, diluted 1 liter with 7 liters of water. I poured it into the system, then the engine ran for about 20 minutes. Then I drained something green from the system ... Then they flushed the system with water many times until some green sediment was washed out. Only then he poured fresh VAMP antifreeze into the system. A clean cooling system (no rust or sand) is the key to good thermostat and system performance.

If the car is already old, then I advise you to pay attention to the metal return pipe, which is located above the starter. In my case, the pipe inside was in a terrible state - all in shells, rusty, antifreeze was already oozing through it. It is attached with two bolts to the cylinder block through a gasket. Replaced the pipe and gasket.

The pump (water pump) may fail slowly. To assess its condition, you need to remove the cover of the flat-toothed belt and touch the lower part of the pump with your finger. Check if the area of \u200b\u200bthe drainage hole is wet (if there is a drop of antifreeze hanging). If it's wet, it's time to change your pump. If this moment is not tracked, then the pump bearing may jam over time and the camshaft drive flat-toothed belt will break (in practice it was). When removing the pump, you need to replace the gasket under it (and lubricate it with lithol, for example). Tear off the old gasket carefully. There are left and factory gaskets on sale. The difference in gasket thickness is visually visible. And this thickness determines the gap between the impeller and the cylinder block, i.e. pump performance. When I replaced the pump with a factory gasket, the pump began to pump much stronger, the return flow became strong and the engine hardly heats up in traffic jams.

Pipe clamps are best purchased with a wrench tightening option. The first time they will have to be tightened several times, since the rubber is pressed in over time. Especially during the beginning of winter, the antifreeze may begin to leak and it will be necessary to tighten the clamps. I have installed Norma clamps.

Thick nipples are sold as a set. Price range from 50 to 160 UAH. I do not advise you to put cheap ones. the rubber is very poor quality. It is better to install the most expensive (so-called factory) production of WOLMOT Poland.

It is necessary to drain and pour antifreeze into the cooling system when the stove is on (the tap must be open). After pouring the antifreeze with your hands, you can squeeze the thick pipes to expel air. Also, after filling, you need to start the engine and raise the expansion tank to the maximum height (as long as the pipes allow) and hold it for a little. This will expel air from the cooling system.

After the antifreeze is poured into the system, you need to check the operation of the cooling system. We warm up the engine at idle speed and control its temperature with the device, and with our hand we control the temperature of the lower part of the radiator. Only when the arrow of the device reaches 90 degrees should the lower part of the radiator become hot. After that, after a while the radiator fan should turn on. This means that the thermostat is in good working order. he started the antifreeze in a large circle (through the radiator).

Updated:
When buying a stove faucet, check if it leaks when closed. To do this, you need to blow into it. A good faucet does not leak anything. When the handle of a bad valve is wobbled, the valve valve may start to leak. In a good tap, the flow control knob should not have any backlashes, otherwise the stove may continue to work when the tap is closed. When connecting the cable to the crane, it is necessary to make sure that the cable does not create a lateral load on the crane handle (otherwise the handle will be skewed). To do this, the end of the cable should be bent in a zigzag with right angles so that the cable can walk somewhat freely in the hole in the left-right handle. These are necessary conditions for the stove radiator to be cold when the tap is closed (we check it by hand).

Updated 22.10.2012:
After replacing the third crane of the stove, I decided to install a VAZ crane. Well, ZAZ does not know how to make a stove tap. Well, at least crack, it flows, it does not block the flow. So I bought from VAZ-2108, model LV 0108 produced by Luzar. Aluminum body, ceramic parts.

Where it is painted in red, I cut it off with a hacksaw. rests on the manifold during installation. The fastening of the cable is the same as in Tavria. The only difference is that the valve lever in the "closed" and "open" positions works opposite to ours. And I had to shorten the central core of the cable a little, somewhere by 1 cm. The crane is kept cleanly on the nozzles, and this is quite enough. The faucet is still working perfectly, it blocks the flow tightly, the hand does not feel heat on the stove radiator at all when it is closed. It costs 55 UAH.

Updated10.11.2014
The sensor for turning on the radiator fan often fails. And you even buy a new one, put it on, and it either turns on or off at the wrong temperature. A bunch of TM-108 sensor manufacturers - different types of Vernetoff and other shit. And often the manufacturer is not indicated on the sensor at all ... Practice has shown that it is necessary to set the production of JSC "Kaluga Avtopribor" (KZA) at 92/87 degrees. It seems that ZAZ installed these sensors. Turns the fan on and off very correctly.

Updated26.09.2015
Replacing the stove radiator. My radiator leaked a lot, especially in the cold. I bought a new Luzar Comfort with improved characteristics. The radiator is aluminum, with brazed tubes, with increased heat transfer and reduced aerodynamic resistance. It looks very solid in appearance. Replacing is easy. Remove the two heater bolts under the torpedo. Close the stove tap. Remove the stove pipes from the radiator. A little antifreeze will pour out into the substituted container. Put on the plugs on the radiator leads. Pull the heater housing slightly towards you. Remove the three screws securing the radiator on the side of the heater on the passenger side. Remove the old radiator. Turn on the stove fan and blow out all debris from the stove. Collect back.

It warms, of course, better than the old one, it is also blown almost twice as strong. Warm air flow is felt more significantly. And most importantly, it does not flow yet.

Updated01.10.2015
I bought a new expansion tank cap. Manufactured by FEBI Bilstein. Model 02269. Kind of like made in Germany. Price $ 2. Manufactured for select Volkswagen and Audi models. One problem. I had to put an additional gasket in the lid, since with one gasket the lid is screwed onto the tank not hermetically. Luzar took the gasket from the cover. Let's see how it will work, otherwise our covers do not last even a year - the valve fails and the cooling system tears somewhere.

Updated26.11.2015
The Vernet thermostat is stuck on the small circle of the cooling system. The engine temperature climbed above 110. I knocked on the thermostat - it did not help for long and it got stuck completely. I drove further with the stove and the fan on at the 3rd speed - so I managed to keep the engine temperature no higher than 100. On the Barabashovo market on the 2nd floor I was sold the only version of the Progress T80-95 thermostat. The bastards said he was 87 degrees. But there was nowhere to go, bought it and installed it. Of course, it began to open at 80 degrees, as reported by the website of the manufacturer Progress-K (Kherson). So I switched brands to an 80 degree thermostat. I drove about 200 km on it. People, do not buy anything from these aunts on the drum, they are crooks (not for the first time) and they are not selling quality goods.

Now impressions on the 80-degree thermostat. The engine temperature does not rise above 80 degrees almost never. Neither in the city nor on the highway. The air temperature was +4 degrees. While crawling in 2-3 gears along the pits, about 20 kilometers with a full load of the car, once the temperature rose to 90 degrees for about a couple of minutes. The stove heats up in general as before - I did not notice the difference. In winter, the engine will probably be chilly, but good in summer. The 87-degree thermostat was hot in summer. In the heat, especially after stopping, the engine overheated. In the Crimea, in the mountains, with a long high rise in 2nd gear, I warmed up above 100. In general, at least take and put summer and winter thermostats. Frosts will come, I'll test it.

Why do thermostats go. In many cases due to debris in the cooling system. Therefore, I installed such a device.

A transparent fuel filter was cut into the return line to the tank. It can withstand temperature and pressure in the system. Garbage and some kind of silt appeared in it. Soon I will put a new filter with a sump. Maybe it will clean up my old system a little. Although I have already washed it with chemical washings, something is still floating inside.

UPD 01/08/2016 Thermostat test at 80 degrees at -23 frost.
So I went on a trip to the highway (100 km) at -23 degrees overboard and 90% humidity. I wanted to take a cardboard box on the radiator - I forgot it at home. As a result, the engine temperature all the time was slightly below 80 degrees, as well as in the fall at +5 degrees. You don't need to put any cardboard on the radiator. Engine thrust is normal as is the 87 thermostat. The carburetor did not freeze anywhere, XX is normal. The stove warmed up well, I did not notice the difference from 87. Conclusion - a thermostat at 80 degrees in winter copes well with the tasks. So far, I have everything.

UPD 03/05/2016 Replacement of the cooling radiator
My radiator began to leak. Constantly large puddle of antifreeze. I decided to buy an aluminum brazed radiator with flat tubes produced by Luzar. Brazed, this means that the tubes are brazed to the tank wall, not rubber sealed. When the old radiator was removed, it turned out that it had a crumpled (possibly from overtightening with a clamp) lower plastic fitting and there was a leak in this place. It also flowed in places where the plastic reservoir of the radiator was squeezed. I had a radiator "Zlit". It is also brazed with round tubes and has been in service for quite a long time - over 13 years.

The radiator has two steam outlet connections. There was only the right one with a hole (near the sensor). The hole was drilled to 4 mm and a return pipe was put on it. Let's see how the engine will warm up now, otherwise there is a lot of debate in the network on the topic "which side should be the return pipe". Another feature of the radiator is its very thin tubes. Perhaps there is a possibility of clogging with garbage, but we have a filter :)

That's right, it was necessary to buy radiators from Luzar's products. Because Luzar is a Russian trade mark for the products of the Lugansk Aircraft Repair Plant. On which, in times of peace, a German radiator production line was installed. The fate of this line in the Internet could not be traced. According to Wikipedia, the plant was stolen by "Russian defenders" and taken to Mordor (possibly only an air unit). However, there is evidence that St. Petersburg now makes radiators and the quality is now "not at all the same." There are also rumors that the line has moved to Kharkov and continues to delight us with normal radiators. In any case, the place of production is not indicated on the radiator tag and there is an occupation barcode.

Traveled around the city with this radiator and the right return pipe union. On the street +2 degrees. I did not notice any difference in the engine warm-up speed. The engine temperature in all modes was 80 degrees, the radiator fan never turned on.

UPDATE 04/14/2016
The battle with the cooling system continues. The blue "German" lid of the antifreeze tank is buggy. Does not relieve pressure. The pipes have become as hard as stone. I took the Luzar cover I bought long ago. At my stand, it did not bleed air up to 2 atm. I decided to shorten the valve spring by a turn. He waved her scissors for metal. When I disassembled the cover, I noticed that the valve was rubber stuck, and barely tore it off. And this is on a new cover! Clean rubber stuck to clean dry plastic. Now while it is working, the rubber pipes are not stone. But this lid is such a buggy thing that you need to regularly check the pressure in the system, otherwise it will break something. Soon I will get tired of it and I will drive with atmospheric pressure in the cooling system. Either I will not twist the lid, or I will pull out the valve nafig.

UPDATE 26.08.2016
The lid of the Luzar tank began not to twist tightly, the thread was bypassed and warped. Antifreeze leaks from under the lid. I took an older Luzar lid - it twists normally. Replaced the gasket - it does not help. I rearranged the filling of the lid from the new one to the old one and screwed it onto the tank well, tightly. What happened to the lid ... the temperature caused it.

UPDATE 05.08.2017
The valve on the tank lid is stuck again. I'm tired of it. I changed them a bunch of different manufacturers, shortened the spring. In general, I slightly unscrewed the lid to relieve the pressure and the hedgehog so. I won't bother with caps / valves anymore. Stop paying handcrafted cover engineers :)

Here is information about the original units and systems of the ZAZ-110308 (with the MeMZ-3071 engine).
CAR "ZAZ-110308"

ZAZ-110308 car Slavuta"- differs from the ZAZ-1103 Sauvuta model by installing a MeMZ-3071 engine with a working volume of 1.299 liters with an electronic engine management system (ECM), a component of which is a distributed fuel injection system (SRVT).

Distributed fuel injection - one of the most effective and promising areas for improving the gasoline engine, allowing to provide:
- significant improvement in power, economic and environmental indicators;
- efficient, without detonation, work / engine at an optimal compression ratio and controlled change in combustion processes depending on the load;
- smooth, without jerking, load change with high-quality regulation at transient modes of engine operation;
- stable combustion at cold start and warming up of leaner mixtures, in comparison with a carburetor engine;
- improved fuel efficiency;
- elimination of the characteristic drawbacks of carburetor engines - uneven distribution of the working mixture over the cylinders, fuel settling on the walls of the intake manifold, which reduces the reliability of starting at low air temperatures.

1 - air filter. 2 - throttle position sensor. And * line. 3 - throttle branch pipe: 4 - air temperature and absolute pressure sensor. 5 - receiver: 6 - fuel pressure regulator, 7 - fuel injector rail; 8 - nozzle: 9 - coolant temperature sensor (signal to the controller); 10 - spark plug; 11 ignition module; 12 - crankshaft speed and position sensor; 13 - speed sensor; 14 - fuel recirculation pipe; 15 oxygen sensor; 16 - catalytic converter; 17 - muffler. 18 - fuel pump; 19 - fuel tank; 20 - adsorber. 21 - adsorber purge valve. 22 - control lamp SRVT; 23 - diagnostic block. 24 - fuel filter; 25 - controller; 26 - idle speed regulator, 27 knock sensor

1 - expansion tank; 2 - receiver; 3 - vacuum brake booster; 4 - reservoir of hydraulic brake drive; 5 - windshield washer reservoir; 6 - thermostat; 7 - ignition module; 8 - plug of the oil filler neck; 9 - air filter; 10 - oil dipstick; 11 - relay and fuse box; 12 - adsorber with purge solenoid valve.

The fuel supply system includes:
- electric petrol pump;
- fuel filter with metal body and paper filter element. Installed in the rear of the car in the area of \u200b\u200bthe gas tank Change the fuel filter in accordance with the work regulations given in the “Service book;
- fuel lines;
- rail assembly with electromagnetic injectors, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure control fitting.
The air supply system includes:
- air filter with replaceable paper filtering element of panel type. Installed in the engine compartment above the engine;
- a throttle pipe with an idle speed regulator and a throttle position sensor;
- receiver;
- intake manifold.
The air filter must be changed in accordance with the work schedule given in the "Service book".

1 - spring cover latches; 2 - air filter cover; 3 - filtering element of the air filter.

Fuel vapor recovery system includes:

separator. Installed under the rear bumper;
safety valve. Prevents pressure build-up in the gas tank;
an adsorber (fuel vapor absorber) with a solenoid valve. Installed in the motorcycle compartment on the right mudguard;
two-way valve. Mounted on the fuel line.

The exhaust gas system includes:

exhaust gas neutralizer. Installed in the exhaust system at the front of the vehicle
oxygen sensor. Installed in front of the catalytic converter

Ignition system. The ignition system of an engine with SRVT lacks a traditional switch, a distributor sensor and an ignition coil. Instead, an ignition module is used, consisting of two ignition coils and a built-in switch

The system has no moving parts and does not require maintenance. It is necessary to ensure that the connectors of the high and low voltage wires are securely fastened, that the system elements are not mechanically damaged and that they are clean.
The ignition system does not need adjustments (including the ignition timing), since the ignition timing is controlled by the controller using the signals from the SRVT sensors. Spark plugs - with thread М14х1, 25-6е. the length of the screw part is 19 mm and heat-resistant clean 17 according to OST 37.003.081.

Candles used on the MeMZ-3071 engine:
WR7DC Bosch
WR7DP Bosch
CR42XLSDelco
RN9YC Champion
RN9YCC Champion
FE65CPR KLG
LR15YC Brisk
FE65PRS Jskza

Crankcase ventilation system

closed through the hose from the filter housing and the throttle pipe.

TO ontroller (electronic control unit) installed in the passenger compartment behind the glove compartment. As the central unit of the ECM, based on the information received from the sensors, it controls the operation of the SRVT, ensuring optimal engine operation in various operating modes.
The functions of the controller include control:
- the work of the nozzles;
- time of accumulation of energy in the coils of the ignition system (including by the detonation parameter under changing engine operating conditions);
- operation of the adsorber purge valve;
- the frequency of rotation of the crankshaft at idle;
- the work of the electric petrol pump;
- operation of the fan of the engine cooling system;
- a control lamp on the instrument cluster - "CHECK ENGINE".

Attention! If the air temperature may rise above 80 ° C, for example, in drying chambers, remove the SRVT controller.

Idle speed regulator

consists of a two-pole stepper motor and a cone valve connected to it.
Installed on the throttle body.

Crankshaft speed and position sensor

inductive type, mounted on the clutch housing.

Air temperature and absolute pressure sensor

installed on the receiver and consists of two sensors combined in one housing with a signal processing circuit:
- air temperature (thermistor);
absolute pressure (integral with semiconductor piezoresistors);

Coolant temperature sensor, thermistor,

installed on the outlet pipe and serves to supply signals to the controller (not to be confused with the coolant temperature gauge sensor installed separately).

Throttle position sensor, potentiometer, installed on the throttle pipe.
Knock sensor, piezoelectric, installed on the engine intake manifold.
Vehicle speed sensor installed on the gearbox. When the driving wheels rotate, the sensor generates pulses with a frequency of 6 pulses per meter of vehicle movement and sends them to the controller. A flexible speedometer shaft is attached to the end of the sensor

The control lamp of malfunction SRVT is located on the combination of examples. Lights up when the engine is started and goes out after 3 ... 5 s.

Cooling system of the engine MeMZ-3071
The cooling system of MeMZ-3071 is similar to that of MeMZ-245 with the exception of:
- there is no sensor for turning on the radiator fan (this function is performed by the controller);
- instead of heating the carburetor starting device, the throttle body is heated.
The engine cooling system should be serviced in accordance with the work schedule given in the "Service Book".

A is the path of the liquid with the thermostat open (the engine is hot); B - the path of the liquid with the thermostat closed (the engine is cold); B - draining the liquid into the expansion tank

1 - radiator supplying the water pump branch pipe; 2 - thermal switch Mektrove1gT11Lator for radiator cooling; 3 - electric fan; water pump; 4 - radiator drain valve; 5 - coolant temperature sensor; 6 - water pump; 7 - engine; heating radiator; 8 - receiver; 9 - plug of the expansion tank; 10 - expansion tank; 11 - engine drain plug; 12 - heater radiator tap; 13 - heater radiator; 14 - thermostat.

Instrumentation

The instrument cluster of the ZAZ-110308 car is similar to the instrument cluster of the ZAZ-1103 car. Additionally, the control lamp of the SRVT malfunction is activated - see pos. 55 in Fig. 5 Operation manuals.
Electrical equipment of the car "ZAZ-110308"

In connection with the installation of SRVT. the electrical system of the car ‘ZAZ-110308” is somewhat different from the electrical system of the car “ZAZ-1103”. Missing data - see the car "ZAZ-1103 *.

Sensors: В1 - absolute pressure and air temperature sensor; B2 - coolant temperature sensor (signal to the controller); ВЗ - throttle position sensor; B4 - knock sensor; B5 - oxygen sensor; B6 - speed sensor; Y2 - crankshaft position sensor.

Power supply system: G1 - rechargeable battery; G2 is a generator.

Instrument cluster: I20 - instrument cluster; HI2 - battery discharge warning lamp; Н15 - control lamp SRVT; R1 is a 50 ohm resistor.

Relay: K1 - ignition switch relay; K2 - fuel pump relay; KZ - starter relay; K11 - power relay; K12 - fuel pump relay; K13 - relay for turning on the radiator fan motor.

Starter and electric motors: Ml - starter; M2 - radiator fan motor; M8 - fuel pump electric motor;

Switches: S2 - ignition switch.

Ignition system: U1 - ignition module;

Supply system: U2 - controller; Y1 - nozzles; Y3 - idle speed regulator; Y4 - adsorber valve.

Circuit breakers: F5.3. F5.7 - fuse box fuse; F19 - fuse for the ignition module and controller; F20 - fuse for the controller and the fuel pump.

Connectors: О - connector to the fuel pump; C2 - connector to the injector harness; C7 - connector of the front wiring harness; X - diagnostic connector.

Installation of the SRVT wire harness of Tavria Slavuta (top view of the engine compartment):

1 - SRVT wire harness; 2 - clamp for fastening the wiring harness; 3 - generator; 4 - engine; 5 - waste; 6 - starter; 7 - bracket for wiring harness; 8 - pedal bracket.

Fuses n relay of the car "ZAZ-110308"

The location of the fuses in the block (in the car) - see the ZAZ-1103 car. Pay attention to the actual complete difference in the numbers of fuses in "Tavria" produced earlier in 1997!

1 - power relay; 2 - fuse for the ignition module; 3 - fuse for the electric petrol pump; 4 - radiator fan relay; 5 - electric gasoline pump relay.

Features of the operation of the car "ZAZ-110308"
When operating and repairing a car, follow the rules specified in the "Safety Requirements and Warnings" section of this Manual.

It is strongly recommended that when refueling a car, fill the gas tank with fuel only through a funnel with a fine mesh in order to exclude mechanical impurities and water present in the gasoline. It is also possible to use preparations that bind "water in the fuel
Attention! When equipping a vehicle with an exhaust gas aftertreatment system, use only unleaded gasoline.

Driving a vehicle with an electronic engine management system (ECM) has some peculiarities and does not require any special skills from the driver.

Cold start. Recall that. starting the engine in the morning, there is no need to touch the accelerator pedal - there is a risk of "flooding" the candles. The electronic control system will determine how much fuel it needs and will “deliver” it to the combustion chambers in the right amount. And only at a temperature of minus 20 * C and below, you can slightly press the accelerator pedal (about 10 ... 15% of its stroke).

Sequence of operations when starting a cold engine:
- insert the key into the ignition switch;
- put the gear shift lever into neutral position. When the air temperature is below minus 5 ° С, fully depress the clutch pedal;
- turn on the ignition by shifting the key from position "0" to position "D", hold a pause of 10 s to fill the fuel supply system and start the engine by moving the key to position "II" for a time not exceeding 10 s. When flashes appear, the starter operating time can be increased up to 20 s;
- after starting the engine, release the ignition key and smoothly release the clutch pedal after 20 seconds;
- if the engine does not start at the first attempt, turn off the ignition and after one minute repeat the above actions.
Note. If the engine does not start after three attempts, depress the accelerator pedal all the way (the fuel supply stops) and turn on the starter for 10 ... 15 s to purge the cylinders from excess fuel, release the accelerator pedal and start the engine after one minute.

Attention!
It is strictly forbidden to start the engine from the ECM from other sources of electricity, as well as by towing or pushing the car, as this can lead to system failure.

After stopping the engine with the ignition on, the electric fuel pump should not work.
Voltages greater than 14 V or AC must not be applied to any terminals on the system.

On the instrument cluster there is a control lamp of the SRVT malfunction, which lights up when the ignition is turned on and goes out after 3 ... 5 s (before starting the engine).

Turning on the warning lamp while driving does not mean that the engine must be stopped urgently, but signals the driver about the need to check the engine as soon as possible at the nearest service station. When the control lamp is on and the engine is running, in emergency modes, the controller ensures that the engine operates close to normal.

To protect yourself from troubles on the road, it is advisable to take with you a crankshaft position sensor and an electric petrol pump. If any other SRVT sensor fails, the car engine goes into emergency mode, working according to the readings of the other sensors, which allows you to get to the service station on your own. But a failed crankshaft position sensor or a gasoline pump immobilizes the car completely.

It warms, of course, better than the old one, it is also blown almost twice as strong. Warm air flow is felt more significantly. And most importantly, it does not flow yet.

Why do thermostats go. In many cases due to debris in the cooling system. Therefore, I installed such a device.