Add kerosene to engine oil. How to flush the engine with diesel fuel before changing the oil

All about flushing a car engine with kerosene and diesel fuel

The motor of a car is its main power unit. Therefore, its performance must always be at a high level. In this article we will tell you how the engine is flushed with diesel fuel, why it is done, what is necessary for this. Also you will be able to look with this process.

Reasons for flushing

Flushing the engine with kerosene or diesel fuel has long been considered a well-known and old method among domestic motorists. In addition, this topic constantly generates many questions and controversies. Not only in life, but also on the Internet, motorists often argue actively about flushing the internal combustion engine with these means. But no one can give a definite answer.

Carbon deposits on the inner walls of the internal combustion engine

So, for what reasons does the engine flush with diesel fuel before changing the oil? Diesel fuel or kerosene is an excellent tool that allows you to replace special flushing materials. Flushing with diesel fuel or kerosene allows you to return the former youth to the internal components of the internal combustion engine. This opinion exists among motorists of the old grandfather's schooling. These people believe that kerosene or diesel fuel provides excellent engine cleaning. These substances allow to dissolve carbon deposits, slags, to clean the channels through which the engine oil circulates, to eliminate the dirt collected there. Thus, flushing the internal combustion engine with kerosene or diesel fuel, in the opinion of experienced motorists, can increase the service life of lubricating systems.

But is it really so? Such methods were relevant at a time when auto service stations were not so common, and specialist services were available only to a few motorists. And for such an opinion to cease to prevail among our drivers, more than one generation must change and many years have passed. Nowadays, when modern vehicles are equipped with computer systems, flushing the engine with diesel fuel or kerosene can be compared to alternative medicine. That is, it may not be so much good as harm.

Carbon deposits on the inner walls of the motor

How to flush?

If earlier this method helped many motorists, now the time is a little different. Not only car motors are changing, but also car oils for them. If you decide to flush a new engine with kerosene, then keep in mind that you can easily lose the warranty on it. When the motor is dismantled and completely disassembled, then, of course, you simply will not find a better flushing than kerosene or diesel fuel.

As for cleaning the internal combustion engine from carbon deposits, coke and residues of the lubricating fluid, in this case, cleaning the engine from engine oil is questionable.

Despite the myths that go around these flushing agents, they will not be able to completely flush the internal combustion engine, because there are always hard-to-reach places in the system where precipitation settles. Thus, the diesel fuel will fall into such a zone of the motor and, albeit in small quantities, will remain there. As a result, you will fill in new motor fluid, which will mix with the remaining kerosene. In this case, your car will definitely not thank you.

Clean internal combustion engine - achieved by cleaning with diesel fuel when fully disassembled

If you still decide to flush the unit, then know that such a procedure for cleaning the system is most relevant and painless for owners of classic VAZ models or not new foreign cars. This is not to say that this is very useful, but such a procedure in practice really effectively cleans the unit. You will need at least 5 liters of diesel or kerosene. Typically, this process is carried out when changing the engine fluid, so you must have a new oil filter.

In general, the procedure includes the following steps:

flush the motor to operating temperature;
drain the engine fluid;
pour prepared kerosene or diesel fuel;
start the vehicle engine and turn off;
turn off the car for a few minutes (it is impossible for the internal combustion engine to warm up to operating temperature with kerosene);
repeat the procedure at least two times;
drain the used kerosene;
replace the filter element and fill with new engine fluid.

Kerosene as a flushing agent

Step by step instructions

The procedure for cleaning the motor itself is as follows:

After draining the oil from the engine, make sure that the same volume of kerosene can get into the sump where the engine fluid is drained.
The flushing material itself, in this case flushing or kerosene, must be poured abruptly so that it flows through all available engine components with pressure and flushes out the remaining oil. The drain plug should be open at this moment. It is necessary to pass about two or three liters of kerosene through the internal combustion engine.
Then close the drain cover and fill the unit with as much flushing agent as you pour in oil when changing.
Start the engine and turn it off for a while. The efficiency of cleaning the unit will depend on how you will gas. This must be done in order to increase the pressure and the flushing material to better clean all the parts. The main thing that must be carefully monitored in this process is that the unit does not warm up to operating temperature.
Drain the flushing material and visually inspect the fluid: if there is a lot of engine fluid residues in it, flush one or more times.
When the cleaning process of the unit is completed and new lubricant has been filled in, start the engine. Let it run for a while so that the remaining flushing agent is completely dissolved. Take a test drive just in case.

Flushing the internal combustion engine in this way may have some effect. First, the knock of hydraulic lifters will decrease. In practice, this really happens. Secondly, the newly filled lubricant will remain clear for much longer. However, it is also possible that after such a procedure, problems with starting the unit may appear. Since these flushing agents are not able to provide the desired friction effect, the starter may have trouble cranking the crankshaft. Or, even by turning the crankshaft, it will give a certain load on the internal combustion engine elements.

"Cleaning the Powertrain"

This shows the procedure for flushing the engine with a special tool.

http://avtozam.com

legkoe-delo.ru

Is it possible to wash the engine with kerosene

Back to the Kia Quoris club (K9)

Hello! I heard that you can flush the engine with kerosene. I want to try to do this on my Kia K9. What do you think?

Hello! Flushing an engine with kerosene is an old-fashioned way of solving problems with congestion inside it.

Here is one way: remove the wire from the coil, drain all the oil and instead fill the device with kerosene. We do not turn on the engine, but simply let the fluid stand in the system for several hours. Then we drain the kerosene and fill it with ordinary oil (you can even use cheap semi-synthetics instead of high-quality ones). To avoid scuffing the walls, it is best to hang out the main axle and push the cylinders forward. Now you can restore the spark and turn the ignition key. We ride semi-synthetics for a couple of days. During this time, the oil should become almost dark. We drain this slag and use high-quality oil again. From myself, I would add that this method can still cause bullies. Therefore, it is better to pour oil into the system after kerosene, hang the wheel on the axle and turn it for about a minute. Another worrying thing is that a certain percentage of kerosene can get into the exhaust manifold. Or even in the intake. I'm not sure he'll clean up properly. And if the engine starts when it is there, then you shouldn't expect anything good. By the way, kerosene has excellent fluidity. I'm pretty sure it will go through the rings and, along the way, wash off the oil protective film from the cylinders. Therefore, it seems to me that oil should be poured after kerosene, in which there are many additives to protect the same cylinders and the rapid formation of a film over the entire surface of the device. There is also such an option: kerosene will be able to wash off slag formations in oil channels. But at the same time, it will not dissolve them and after draining, part of the fallen off slag will remain in the system. This means that when we activate the engine, then all non-drained and undissolved debris will “walk” around the device, clogging up all channels that come across on the way.

mashina.com

Flushing the crankcase with kerosene [Archive] - Passat WORLD - Volkswagen Passat-CLUB

View Full Version: Flush with kerosene

With each oil change, my father does the following: after draining the working off, he twists the crankcase plug and pours 4 liters of kerosene into the engine: str: lets it stand for 2 minutes, and then drains all the kerosene. Unscrews the filter, and then everything is the same as with a normal oil change. It claims (and I myself saw it) that the kerosene is drained heavily contaminated. Do you think it hurts or helps the engine?

Interesting what for ???? In general, they do not even recommend using all kinds of chemical washes (oil seals are leaking, etc.), and the composition of modern oils does all the necessary work for the engine, including flushing. I remember Dad earlier on Moskvich-412, when changing the oil, he used a flushing oil. And about flushing dviglo or not, there are a bunch of topics on the forum, so the SEARCH is great.

There is little point in just defending out of work on XX. And so - it is to rinse the crankcase and dilute the already good oil with the remains of kerosene. If, indeed, to wash it, then it is complex, in several passes, using a special flushing oil. In total, with good oil, somewhere under 6000 pokes will be released. In addition, if the engine is heavily contaminated, then coking of the oil pump mesh is possible, with the subsequent dismantling of the sump, etc. So here it is necessary to make a start from a specific case.

Better yet, pour high-quality synthetics from the moment of buying a car (less Castrol and more Motul: mrgreen :) and change it more often, not exceeding the 10,000 mark, then you will not need to wash anything during the entire life of the car.

In my opinion, if you use normal oil vosmilie: then there is no need to do this procedure, because there are many places in the motor where this horror can get and when starting it will be a knock, knock: shuf: ...

30.10.2007, 19:55

Yeah: -k How interesting the mixture of kerosene and oil works: str:

Yes, how interesting the mixture of kerosene and oil works I have heard many times that if it is impossible to crank the crankshaft with a starter (in severe frosts), you can dilute the oil with kerosene in a small amount (as a last resort). Kerosene is volatile, so if it is completely drained and allowed to stand for some time with an open drain and filler neck, it will practically not remain.

imported_White837

30.10.2007, 20:30

So earlier, in the shaggy years, when there were no flushes (or rather, they were, but they had to be DELIVERED), the people got out as best they could. Lily is thinner. Diesel fuel, kerosene, spindle. The result of this work can still be seen in the magazine "Behind the Wheel", the heading "Kolkhoz SAM": mrgreen:

White837))))) yeah, and there was also a bulk of oil for diesel engines (Kamazov Zilov), and gasoline was also free, there was almost always a 200-liter barrel with 76 in the garage)))))

to mine there is no harm and no benefit. What is he doing on the trade wind? : tik

to mine there is no harm and no benefit. What is he doing on the trade wind? Yes, for 1.9 TDI 97g.v., assuming that these engines are not at all "TOP OF ENGINEERING THOUGHT" ....: oops:

30.10.2007, 21:26

1. DO NOT wash engines with kerosene IN ANY CASE. Kerosene washes away the oil film. The first start is the first bully. If you remember ten years ago, the stores were full of the so-called "five-minute" Engine Cleaning Products. They appeared after the American center for "consumer protection" Banned their use in the United States. 2. I have heard many times that if it is impossible to crank the crankshaft using a starter (in severe frosts), you can dilute the oil with a small amount of kerosene (as a last resort). Kerosene is volatile, so if it is completely drained and allowed to stand for some time with an open drain and filler neck, it will practically not remain. For this purpose, gasoline is used, and not in any case kerosene. And then no more than 100 grams. When the oil is heated, gasoline evaporates. This method was used on carburetor engines. Now the stores sell the so-called "Quick start", "cold start", etc. A fairly effective remedy.

I think I have fully disclosed the question.

ws vosmilie: Easily

DO NOT wash engines with kerosene IN ANY CASE. Kerosene washes away the oil slick. The first start is the first bully. If you remember ten years ago, the stores were full of the so-called "five-minute" Engine Cleaning Products. They appeared after the American center for "consumer protection" Banned their use in the United States. There is such a thing. But if you just pour kerosene without turning the crankshaft, which dad does, as far as I understand, and then carefully drain it and fill in normal oil with a filter change, then it will not come to obvious scoring, I think, but nevertheless, 150 grams 200 kerosene will remain in the engine even after it has been thoroughly drained, and driving with such flushing until the next oil change is extremely unhelpful [-X Especially for a turbocharged engine, where the turbine lubrication system is common with the engine in most cases. So dad needs to recommend more modern ways to clean the engine or, more correctly, use the right oil. I have heard many times that if it is impossible to crank the crankshaft using a starter (in severe frosts), you can dilute the oil with a small amount of kerosene. It is easier to use normal oil that meets the temperature conditions. And dilution with gasoline will not tolerate every oil normally. For 1.8t turbo engines - Motul x-lite 8100 0w30 vosmilie: and forget forever about all the problems described in this thread.

But we always save on matches, and then the collective farm begins as a result, the replacement of the turbine or the capital.

30.10.2007, 22:16

But if you just pour kerosene without turning the crankshaft, then drain it thoroughly. After draining the oil from the engine, up to 20% of oil remains in it. In all depressions, etc. So that it is unlikely that it will be possible to drain thoroughly.

SanSanych

30.10.2007, 22:16

I did that, the engine became quieter, better. did Viktor M, a very competent approach. I am grateful to him for that.

30.10.2007, 22:20

Moreover, drain the diesel fuel. Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds:

I repeat again. This was done earlier on carburetor engines. The solarium was diluted 1: 5 with oil, washed, and then again washed with washing oil. Ugh, he himself got confused in words: mrgreen:

Ws After draining the oil from the engine, up to 20% of oil remains in it. In all the depressions, etc. So that it is unlikely that it will be possible to merge thoroughly You read inattentively: mrgreen: I wrote about this above. The fact is that with a crankcase volume of 4.8 liters on an AGU (with a filter volume). 150-200 grams is 3-4% of the total. There will be no obvious scoring, but this dose of kerosene will dilute the oil and significantly reduce its performance, which, naturally, will affect the engine and turbine bearing. Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds: ws Wait, what 20% are we talking about? Are you kidding me? This is if a very viscous oil is poured and drained on a cold engine. And with low viscosity oil, when draining on a hot engine and with a long wait (which many do not do) - 5-7% somewhere on Turboopas 1.8t.

On Skoda or golf (with AGU), the% content is less due to the fact that the crankcase is almost a liter larger.

30.10.2007, 22:31

I didn't say 20%, I said up to 20%. And I'm not kidding that we were taught at seminars. And about 5% or 10% I have already written above. By the way ...

Ws I take my numbers exclusively from practice on Renault F3R, F3P, VW 1.8T engines, using low-viscosity 0-5w oil, changing on a hot engine and long drain.

And I calculated it simply: the factory volume is given up to the MAX mark, taking into account the filter, as I believe. I looked - how much fresh was left in the canister after all the manipulations, so I calculated that somewhere 4-7% of the volume indicated by the factory remains in the engine.

31.10.2007, 00:39

kerasin-tyk and it evaporates! Current at a higher temperature! WASH or NOT WASH - that is the question! how many people have opinions! I'm for washing! Repeat the procedure 3-4 times - with filter changes! .. and when you change the company of the manufacturer, it seems to me 100% justified! The only question is flushing (composition and all that).

From the foregoing, we can conclude that with such a flushing, kerosene remains in the engine. And if, after draining the kerosene, pour 200 grams of oil without closing the drain plug. It seems to me that all the remaining kerosene will go away with the oil. And the engine will be much cleaner ......: oops: vosmilie:

I've read horror stories about washing, about castrol ... I don't have any deposits on Castrol for 50 thousand km, most of them at high speeds.

flushing is great, it just needs to be done wisely. As for kerosene, in my opinion it is preferable to store-bought washing of unknown composition and origin.

Flushing the engine before changing the engine oil is a procedure that drivers follow for a variety of reasons. The engine is flushed to remove heavy contamination from, during, as a result of malfunctions that intensively contaminate the oil system, etc. Note that there are several cleaning methods. You can use special flushing in the used oil (the so-called "five minutes"), fill in flushing oil for a short period of time, or even travel several tens of kilometers on some flushes in a moderate mode.

In parallel with this, flushing the engine oil system with diesel fuel remains the preferred option for many drivers. The main argument is that for such a flushing there is no need to separately purchase ready-made flushing compositions, which saves money. In this article, we will look at this cleaning method in more detail, and also talk about the advantages and disadvantages of such a solution.

Read in this article

Flushing the engine when changing oil with diesel fuel: pros and cons

To begin with, flushing the engine with diesel fuel is a well-known method of cleaning internal combustion engines from contamination, which has been actively used and continues to be used in the CIS by some owners of fairly old models of the domestic automotive industry. Before changing the oil, kerosene or diesel fuel is poured into both old trucks and special equipment, and into the power units of passenger cars manufactured by VAZ, GAZ, ZAZ, etc.

There are also motorists who practice this method on old foreign cars. We add that this washing method has both supporters and opponents. The former do not see any harm to the motor, others believe that the engine, after washing with diesel fuel, loses its resource and may fail prematurely. Let's figure it out.

So, the main reason for flushing is to remove contamination from parts, internal surfaces and channels of the power unit. As you know, diesel fuel has good detergent properties, this tool is widely used when cleaning a disassembled internal combustion engine from carbon deposits and deposits during repairs.

Otherwise, diesel fuel can be used to qualitatively wash the disassembled motor, for example, during major repairs, etc. It should be noted that it was from here that the widespread belief came that flushing the lubrication system with diesel fuel without disassembling the internal combustion engine also gives tangible results.

However, one should not forget that in the process of cleaning a disassembled engine, a significant mechanical effect is simultaneously exerted on contamination. In other words, kerosene or diesel fuel can partially dissolve slags and carbon deposits, after which the dirt is removed manually. If you pour diesel fuel into the engine for flushing before changing the oil, then the effectiveness of this procedure can be considered questionable. Moreover, this method of flushing may well be dangerous for the engine.

The fact is that any engine cleaners (both special equipment and diesel fuel) are not able to completely remove the accumulated deposits, so it is impossible to completely flush the internal combustion engine. Even in the lubrication system and in the engine itself, there are a large number of hard-to-reach places. These areas usually contain the most contamination. The ingress of diesel fuel into the motor leads to the fact that the dirt does not dissolve, but simply flakes off. Further, the residues of diesel fuel or kerosene in the engine, which cannot be completely drained, are mixed with fresh engine oil, further deteriorating its properties.

It turns out that soaked deposits also circulate in fresh oil, which has partially lost its protective and other beneficial properties. Such contaminants do not dissolve and are not washed out of the motor when draining the flush. It is quite obvious that such cleaning can be dangerous for the unit, since the channels of the lubrication system are clogged with the specified contaminants, and oil starvation of individual units and elements begins.

As a result, certain damage is inflicted on the engine, in some cases the motor may be completely damaged. We add that in parallel various oil seals, gaskets and rubber seals suffer, on which the flushing agent also has a negative effect. This statement is true both for flushing with diesel fuel and in the case of using special agents and flushing oils on contaminated engines.

How to flush a motor with diesel fuel or kerosene

In the event that you nevertheless decide to flush the power unit with diesel fuel, then it should be noted that this procedure is not complicated. Flushing the engine with diesel fuel before changing the oil is carried out as follows:

It is necessary to prepare about 5-6 liters of pure diesel fuel / kerosene without impurities;
2 oil filters are purchased (one may be the cheapest);
The engine warms up until reaching operating temperatures;
The used engine oil is drained, the old oil filter is removed;
Next, fill in kerosene or diesel fuel, install a new (cheap) filter for the oil system;
Then the engine should be started for a couple of minutes, gassed a little at XX to medium speed;
Now the car can be turned off, since the engine is not allowed to warm up above 40-50 degrees with diesel fuel poured into the lubrication system.
After the internal combustion engine has cooled down, the engine is started again and the procedure is repeated;
Next, you can drain the diesel fuel, replace the oil filter and fill in fresh engine oil;

Now let's look at the procedure in more detail. Note that some drivers do not pour pure kerosene or diesel fuel into the engine, but additionally dilute the cleaner with fresh engine oil. In this case, you will need to prepare 2-3 liters of affordable "mineral water".

Before draining the used oil from the engine, it is necessary either to prepare a sump with an increased capacity, or have spare sump. The fact is that after draining the flushing, as well as a number of additional manipulations, in general, twice as much liquid will drain from the unit (old oil and flushing).
After draining the "working off", it is recommended not to screw the drain plug, but to spill several liters of diesel fuel through the engine. It is necessary to pour flushing into the oil filler neck sharply so that the diesel fuel under a certain pressure passes through the unit and flushes off the remnants of the engine oil. This will require 2-3 liters of kerosene. After that, you can screw the drain plug, after which diesel fuel is poured into the motor in a volume that almost reaches the "max" indicator on the dipstick.
When the engine is running, you should not gas too much, but it is not recommended to leave the unit to work only at idle. The fact is that the efficiency of cleaning the internal combustion engine depends on the gas filling, since an increase in speed means an increase in pressure in the lubrication system. In parallel with this, it is also impossible to greatly increase the speed, especially if pure diesel fuel is filled in, and not a mixture of oil and kerosene. In parallel, you need to monitor the temperature of the engine. At about 50 degrees, the engine must be turned off.
When draining the flushing fluid, it is necessary to assess the degree of its contamination. If it is noticeable that the diesel fuel is drained off very dirty, then the flushing procedure can be repeated. Also note that before filling in fresh engine oil, it is advisable to spill one or two liters of clean lubricant without screwing the drain plug. This will help reduce the amount of diesel residues in the internal combustion engine.

After draining the flush, replacing the oil filter and filling with fresh oil, it must be borne in mind that the engine can be started with great difficulty. The fact is that diesel fuel washes away the oil film, and also does not have sufficient lubricating properties. As a result, it is difficult for the starter to turn the crankshaft. Having started the unit, it is necessary to let the motor run for a while at idle speed. At the same time, you need to listen to the operation of the engine, eliminate the occurrence of extraneous noise, knocking or other suspicious sounds. After that, the car can be started to operate as usual.

Is it necessary to flush the engine and when to do it

Carrying out flushing only because it was advised in second-rate car services is impractical and at best pointless, and at worst it can cause serious engine damage. This procedure is relevant to carry out in the following cases:

The car was previously owned by another owner, and the new one has no idea what kind of engine oil was used. In this case, flushing is required, but very carefully and delicately. In most cases, they resort to flushing the engine with new oil.
The car owner is changing the lubricant, for example, switching from synthetics to mineral water. In this case, flushing the engine is desirable, but not necessary.
A completely new car, its owner takes care of the condition of components and assemblies. In this case, flushing procedures are carried out regularly.
A turbocharged engine or heavily used vehicle.
Old car with deposits under the valve cover and in the sump. The diagnostics carried out will indicate the need for a thorough flushing, and the procedure in this case is carried out with the removal of the lid and pallet.

In the first situation, when the new owner of the car does not know which oil was used before, flushing is mandatory and is associated with the presence of additives in the lubricant. Such additives are not found in cheap and low-quality formulations, therefore, they do not protect the engine from the formation of deposits.

If the engine oil changes when switching from synthetics to mineral water or vice versa, then flush oil is poured first. Thus, old additives are disposed of: it is highly likely that they will completely leave the system and will not react with new ones.

Regular flushing of the engine of a new car helps to avoid deposits on parts. If the machine is used actively and in difficult conditions, then the engine is advised to wash even in cars.

Experts do not recommend flushing the engine in only two cases:

if the car is under warranty (since it does not provide for such procedures, in case of a violation, the car can be removed from service);
if high-quality synthetics or semi-synthetics are poured into the engine.

The difference in flushing gasoline and diesel engines

Diesel engines differ from gasoline counterparts not only in design, but also in the features of the flushing process and the materials used for this purpose. To flush them, only special means are used: the usual "five-minute" and "long-playing" flushes and other compounds used to clean gasoline engines, in this case, not only will not work, but will also cause irreparable harm.

The oil pump supplies an insufficient amount of oil for the full functioning of the diesel engine. This leads to the need to create a so-called oil wedge, when the rubbing engine parts go into a "floating" state. The use of detergents, "five minutes" and regular oil when flushing can lead to increased friction between parts. The addition of such solutions dilutes the engine oil, due to which it loses all its properties. Deposits that accumulate on the walls of the engine can vary in composition, so a special composition is required to dissolve each of them.

Therefore, when flushing a diesel engine, experts advise car owners to go to a specialized store and purchase formulations intended for power units of this type. In all other respects, the process of cleaning the engine is no different from that carried out with a gasoline engine.

How to flush the engine: oil formulations, cleaners and other chemicals

Today, when changing the oil or when carrying out complex repairs, they resort to four main methods of flushing the engine:

Flushing oil. A special agent that is poured into the engine after draining the old used oil. With such a composition, the car is operated in a gentle mode for several days. This option is not the most popular, since it requires additional investments and time: in three to four days it is necessary to visit the service station almost daily, pay for the work of specialists and at the same time observe a gentle driving regime.
Flushing liquid. The procedure is almost the same as using flushing oil, but it takes less time, since the composition of such a product is more aggressive and caustic. Liquid is poured into the engine directly into the old oil, after which the engine runs for 10-15 minutes at idle. Then the used oil, together with all impurities and loose impurities, is replaced with a new one.
Regular engine oil change. The most gentle way to flush the engine. First, the oil filter and the lubricant itself are replaced, after which the car is run-in for 2 thousand kilometers. Then, the oil and filter are changed again, followed by gentle driving for 4 thousand kilometers. As soon as this distance is passed, the filter and oil are changed again. After that, you can operate the car as usual with regular maintenance.
Dismantling and flushing the engine. The whole procedure is performed manually: mechanics remove and disassemble the engine, after which all parts are washed with gasoline or kerosene. At the same time, the state of the power unit is diagnosed. This method is considered the most time consuming and costly, however, it fully justifies itself in cases where an engine overhaul is necessary.

The easiest and least expensive way to keep your car engine in working order is to regularly change the oil and oil filter.

Liqui Moly Flushing Oil

Liqui Moly is one of the most common and popular engine flushing products, presented in a wide range.

Oilsystem Spulung

Oilsystem Spulung is a cleaning agent that can be used to clean internal combustion engines and oil systems.

The most effective result is achieved when used in vehicles that are operated:

in conditions of aggressive and hard driving;
in regular traffic jams;
in case of untimely replacement of engine oil.

Separately, it should be noted that this type of Liqui Moly cleaner can be used for both gasoline and diesel power units. Regular use of the compound allows you to extend the life of the motor and keep its parts and assemblies clean. The manufacturer guarantees the following benefits:

The composition gently dissolves deposits and impurities embedded in the walls of the engine, without clogging the oil filters and pipes.
Extends the life of the filled engine oil.
The additives added to the flushing oil not only clean the engine, but also form a protective film on its walls, which reduces friction of parts.
The composition contains additional additives that protect rubber parts from wear and corrosion.
Exits the system completely after flushing is complete.

Oilsystem Spulung High Performance

Available in two versions: for gasoline and diesel engines.

overheating of the motor;
decrease in power;
loss of compression;
untimely replacement of engine oil;
use of low quality gasoline or diesel fuel.

The benefits of flushing oil include:

Fast cleaning of the entire system.
Neutrality towards various materials, including aluminum and rubber, often used in the internal combustion engine system.
The oil has an absolutely harmless composition that does not react with other substances.
The oil does not pollute the environment.

Oil-Schlamm-Spulug

Liqui Moly flushing liquid, created to clean the internal combustion engine from sludge, the reasons for the formation of which are:

rare replacement of lubricant;
frequent and prolonged overheating of the motor;
ingress of moisture or condensation into the system;
use of low-quality oils and fuels.

The manufacturer guarantees that the use of such additives allows you to reduce engine noise and eliminate the knocking of hydraulic lifters.

It is most effective and expedient to use such a flushing fluid in cars, the mileage of which has exceeded 100 thousand kilometers. The advantages of the composition include:

Elimination of carbon deposits and black deposits on the pipes of the oil system.
Elimination of deposits accumulating on engine pistons, especially on ring parts.
Cleaning the valves and holes in the oil system.
Cleaning the engine walls from varnish deposits.
Prevention of oil starvation and costly repairs in the future.

Cleansing liquid from Liqui Moly, which contains additives that quickly and effectively remove contaminants located in the most inaccessible places of the oil system. At the same time, the liquid helps to remove carbon deposits that have accumulated in the piston group. Pro-Line Motorspulung is often used to clean manual gearboxes.

Flushing liquid Pro-Line Motorspulung with special additives to remove hard-to-reach dirt

Flushing fluid advantages:

Reducing the amount of deposits that cannot be completely removed from the internal combustion engine.
Extending the service life of a new engine oil.
Safe engine cleaning thanks to additives included in the fluid.

HI Gear Flush Fluid

HI Gear is an American-made flushing compound, which contains special additives that do not harm the engine even with regular use for one year. Effectively removes most of the carbon deposits from candles, valves and from the combustion chamber.

Adding liquid to the fuel increases engine power and reduces exhaust emissions. Since the product does not contain aggressive substances, its frequent use does not harm the motor.

BBF flushing fluid

BBF is a domestic fuel system flushing agent that effectively removes tar deposits and prevents clogging of fuel filters.

Also helps to remove carbon deposits from valves and combustion chambers. It has an anti-corrosion effect, eliminates fuel detonation, reduces fuel consumption and toxicity of exhaust gases.

Runway Quality Flush Additive

Runway is a special compound that cleans the engine oil system from spanks, carbon deposits and other contaminants.

Improves heat dissipation and oil circulation, restores the mobility of compression and oil scraper rings. Does not harm gaskets, oil seals and valve stem seals.

Flushing - "five minutes"

Flushing - "five minutes" are highly concentrated formulations sold either in small containers or in bulk canisters (already diluted with regular engine oil). The use of such funds, on the one hand, calms the car owner, because in 5-10 minutes it is impossible to cause special damage to the engine, and on the other hand, it makes one ask the question: what can be washed in such a short time?

Some manufacturers refer to such flushing as a full-fledged engine decoking agent.

The composition of "five minutes" includes special additives that form a protective film on the oil seals, protecting the rubber from destruction. At the same time, a fairly high concentration of aggressive chemicals removes deposits from metal parts.

Danger of flushing - "five minutes"

Such flushing agents turned out to be so good that they killed more than a dozen engines. The diagnosis of all power units was oil starvation, which led to damage to the oil pumps, as well as defects in camshafts, crankshaft knocking and piston wedge. After this, the motor is almost impossible to restore - only if a major overhaul is carried out.

The reason for this is poor quality engine oils, which leave a sludge in the engine system in the form of paraffin deposits and clots. Expensive lubricants do not sin like that, taking all the sediments with them when changing, but untimely replacement of low-quality materials can lead to the formation of a mass that is more reminiscent of plasticine in consistency.

Such a mass can accumulate in the oil pan for years without causing any particular harm to the entire system, however, when using “five-minute” washes, it begins to blur, the formed paraffin clots clog all the filters of the fuel and oil systems, the oil receiver, which leads to disastrous consequences for the engine.

Diesel fuel is a gentle and safe product

Flushing the engine with diesel fuel is a common old-fashioned way of cleaning the power unit from deposits and dirt. Despite the fact that today most car owners try to use special auto chemicals, many advise using diesel fuel: this method of flushing the engine is the most gentle and safe.

The advantages of the method:

diesel fuel cleans the engine from slags and impurities;
prolongs the life of the engine and the car as a whole;
protects against the appearance of new deposits;
creates a favorable environment for the further use of engine oil.

Many car owners do not classify diesel fuel as flushing materials, considering it fuel. Despite this, it is a very effective engine cleaner that can even be used to service old ICEs.

How to properly clean the motor with diesel fuel - video

Acetone is a popular vehicle engine wash

The use of acetone is an equally common and used method of flushing the engine.

The addition of such a composition to the engine increases the octane number of gasoline, cleans metal parts from carbon deposits and deposits, and removes moisture from the fuel. However, experts and car owners with many years of experience in operating a car do not advise pouring a large amount of acetone in order to avoid damage to the internal combustion engine.

Kerosene

Flushing the engine with kerosene is a very controversial method: many car owners are of the opinion that it can lead to seizures. Add a small amount of kerosene to the old oil and leave the engine idling for several minutes. After draining the kerosene, it is advisable to completely fill the system with oil and again leave the engine idling.

The downside of this method is that kerosene, due to its fluidity, can get into the intake manifold. The subsequent start of the engine with kerosene in the manifold can lead to serious damage.

Kerosene washes away all impurities and slag formations in the fuel and oil systems, but it does not dissolve them, which is why all the dirt remains in the oil, in a suspended state. Accordingly, after starting the engine, this suspension will go through the system and can clog the filters and the oil receiver.

Transformer oil

Cleaning with transformer oil is the oldest method of washing engines, which was used mainly on GAZ-51 vehicles.

Today, some car owners resort to it, claiming that the composition washes away all engine deposits in a few minutes and prevents the appearance of new ones. However, experts do not recommend using transformer oil, arguing that it can spoil the internal combustion engine.

Solvent

The engine can be flushed with a solvent both under service conditions and independently. To carry out the procedure with your own hands, you need to purchase the tool itself and additional tools - a fuel filter, hoses and a fuel pump.

When flushing in this way, it should be remembered that the cleaning composition can have a negative effect on the engine oil, despite the fact that manufacturers say that the lubricant's properties are preserved even after the solvent enters it. For this reason, such flushing is carried out only before changing the oil. In addition, the solvent can lead to the failure of the spark plugs, therefore, after using it, the entire set is changed.

Petrol

Another way to flush the engine, which, despite its effectiveness, is often perceived with hostility by car owners. In this case, several liters of gasoline are poured into the engine and left for 10-30 minutes, then the fuel is drained and a new portion is poured. The procedure is repeated until the discharged gasoline is clean.

Under no circumstances should the engine be started with such flushing!

The remaining gasoline in the system evaporates without mixing with new oil and without causing any damage to the internal combustion engine. Experts do not recommend using this method, and if you do, then only if you switch to another type of engine oil.

Engine flushing process

Flushing the engine is a scrupulous procedure, during which you can seriously harm the power unit and the oil and fuel systems. Before proceeding with it, you need to consult with a specialist in the car service and diagnose the vehicle. Such a check allows you to assess the condition of the car and the need to change the engine oil.

The engine is flushed as follows:

The engine warms up, after which the used engine oil is drained. To do this, it is advisable to drive the car onto an overpass or lift it on a lift with an inclination to one side - this will drain all the lubricant from the system.
The oil filter is changed and new oil is filled. The car is operated in break-in mode for two days.
After two days, the oil filter and lubricant are changed again.
After repeated running-in, you can drain the engine oil and proceed to direct flushing.
The flushing liquid is poured, the engine starts and runs at idle speed for 10-15 minutes.
The flushing agent is completely drained from the system.
Then low-quality engine oil is poured in, the engine starts up again and idles for half an hour. This is done in order to completely remove the flushing residues from the system.
The used oil is drained, and high-quality lubricant is poured into the system, which will be constantly used in the future.

It is pointless to flush the engine without replacing the oil filters: all carbon deposits and dirt that will be washed off will accumulate in the filter, and when filling new engine oil, they will again enter the system. Therefore, after carrying out this procedure, it is advised to change all filters in the system.

Flushing the engine - video

Gentle flushing is a gentle way to flush the engine

The most preferable option for cleaning the engine from accumulated deposits and carbon deposits. With the gentle method, special flushing agents are poured into the motor, and then the car travels 100–150 kilometers. During this time, flushing will have time to gently and carefully clean the engine without causing any harm to it.

After the desired effect is achieved, the old oil is drained, the oil filter is changed and new grease is poured. The result of this procedure will be obvious: the engine will start to work softer, the car will become more dynamic and obedient.

Quick flush of the engine

It is carried out in cases where engine cleaning and oil change need to be carried out immediately, but it is not the most preferable and safe option. They resort to it when metal chips are in the engine oil, when it is heavily contaminated, or in other situations when it is impossible to carry out a gentle flushing.

The disadvantage of quick flushing is the negative effect it has on engine parts. In its effect, it is very similar to the result of using acid: it not only destroys carbon deposits and dirt, but also removes a thin layer from parts. Such regular exposure, of course, will not lead to anything good, therefore, quick flushing is resorted to in the most extreme cases.

Do-it-yourself engine decarbonization

De-carbonization of a car engine is a method of cleaning the system from carbon deposits formed as a result of operation. In car services, it is called the overhaul of the internal combustion engine and, accordingly, they take round sums for it. However, you can carry out decarbonizing with your own hands: the main thing is to know what exactly and how to do it.

There are several ways to deal with deposits, the most effective of which are:

cleaning with water or steam;
cleaning using special compounds - for example, "Lavra";
cleaning with a mixture of kerosene and acetone.

Such procedures can be done by hand without the help of specialists.

Engine decoking myths

Throughout its existence, this procedure has acquired a huge number of prejudices and myths, the most common of which are:

Using a cleaning agent will give the pistons a shine. This is far from the case: of course, it is possible to achieve mirror cleanliness, but no one will give a guarantee that the car will then start.
You can carry out decarbonizing without changing the engine oil. One of the most dangerous misconceptions: after cleaning the engine, they must change the oil, otherwise this procedure is fraught with damage to the internal combustion engine.
It is impossible to carry out decarbonization on your own. The entire procedure can be carried out in an hour and a half without much effort on the part of the car owner.

Method for cleaning engine parts with water

To carry out decarbonization of the engine with water, the following materials are required:

dropper;
tee;
hose;
distilled water.

The dropper is connected to a bottle of distilled water, after which the resulting system is connected with a hose to the BDZ. The liquid from the bottle should only come out when the suction is on, and the frequency of dripping should be about three drops per second.

After installing an impromptu dropper, the engine runs idle, after which the bottle is attached under the hood and the car is driven for several kilometers. In most cases, the car drives very sluggishly at first, but then accelerates significantly.

The first effect should appear after 100–150 kilometers of run with a dropper. To achieve complete cleaning of the engine, you must drive at least 500 kilometers with a bottle of water. A side effect of such decoking is a reduction in fuel consumption.

Is it possible to de-carbonize the engine with water - video

Cleaning the engine with Laurel before changing the oil

Laurel is a special liquid for decoking. You can buy it at any car store at a bargain price.

Decarbonization with this tool is carried out only before changing the oil and consists of the following steps:

Unscrew all spark plugs.
The valves are set in one position. You can use a piece of thick wire for more accurate measurements.
About 45 ml of "Lavra" is poured into each cylinder.
The candles are returned to their place. Inside, it is desirable to create conditions similar to a steam bath.
The fluid remains in the engine for 4–6 hours.
After the specified time has elapsed, the candles are unscrewed and the starter starts. It is advisable to carry out three or four starts lasting 10-15 seconds with the accelerator pedal fully depressed. This removes excess fluid.
All parts are returned to their place, the engine starts.
The used oil is drained from the system, everything is thoroughly washed and new oil is poured, air and oil filters are installed.

To assess the change in compression, it is enough to drive about one or two kilometers. If everything remains the same, then the problem lies in the engine oil seals. And if the compression has increased, then the decoking was carried out successfully.

We decarbonize the motor with Laurel - video

Decarbonization with a mixture of acetone and kerosene

A similar composition is used to de-carbonize the engine in the most extreme cases, when the car's mileage is more than 400 thousand kilometers and the thrust has completely disappeared.

Acetone and kerosene are mixed in a 2: 1 ratio. For a 4-cylinder engine, 300 ml of the mixture will be enough.

Before decoking, it is advisable to warm up the engine and cool it a little - it must be warm, but not hot, otherwise the acetone will start to boil.

De-carbonization is very simple:

The candles are unscrewed, the prepared mixture is poured into their holes.
Then the candles are returned to their place, and the engine is left in this form for 10-12 hours.
After the specified time has elapsed, a mixture of kerosene and acetone is blown out of the engine by starting the starter.

Before proceeding with the distillation of the mixture from the engine, several conditions must be met:

Any devices and wires that can spark when starting the starter are turned off.
The engine is covered with rags - they will protect other components and parts from dirt.
A test drive is carried out at high speeds.

After decoking, the engine oil must be changed, and it is advisable to do this several times. New filters are also being installed.

De-coking the engine with kerosene and acetone - video

Danger of decoking

Cleaning the engine from carbon deposits allows not only to remove all impurities, slags and dirt, but also washes off a thin oil film on the cylinder walls. The first start-up of the engine after decoking occurs practically "dry", which can lead to rapid wear of the piston rings and to the so-called scuffing. To avoid this will help the use of special compounds - the same Laurel, which creates a thin protective film on the cylinder walls, which reduces the re-formation of carbon deposits and prevents scuffing.

The nuance of decoking is the arrangement of the cylinders. It is easiest to carry out it on conventional in-line internal combustion engines, but in the case of opposed or V-shaped valves, the procedure becomes more complicated: access to spark plugs in such engines is more difficult, and the piston must be almost completely covered with liquid.

The biggest and most unpleasant disadvantage of this procedure is its duration. Of course, you can resort to a quick flush of the engine, but it is not always safe for the combustion chambers and cylinders and often cannot completely remove all deposits.

In general, flushing a car engine is a very effective procedure. However, it is only useful when you really need it. In other situations, flushing "for prevention" and "for the beauty of the engine" can lead to not very pleasant consequences.

Flushing the engine with diesel before changing the oil is considered an old but proven and practical method of cleaning the engine. It is absolutely in vain that many modern motorists laugh at the eccentrics who use this old-fashioned way.

Flushing the engine with diesel fuel will return a second youth to the entire oil system.

Washing with diesel fuel, i.e. diesel fuel, a gasoline engine allows you to get rid of dirt and scale without the use of aggressive substances, which means that you do not worry about system elements that can be damaged by aggressive action. Flushing the engine with diesel fuel allows you to return a second youth to the entire oil system in a simple and cheap, and most importantly, safe way.

The need for a procedure

During the operation of a car, resinous deposits and scale on the walls of the channels accumulate in the oil system of its engine, which can significantly impair oil circulation, reducing the efficiency of the cooling function. The problem increases significantly when using low-quality oil, when such deposits, acquiring significant volumes, can practically block the oil channels. After 10,000-15,000 km of run, an oil change is usually made. However, if the operation of the car was carried out in difficult conditions and with poor-quality composition, then pouring new oil without cleaning the channels from dirt and interference can become simply a useless event.

Before filling in a new oil composition, it is recommended to flush the engine in the following cases: when switching to another type of engine oil; at the first filling and ignorance of the brand of the previously poured liquid; if antifreeze or other coolant gets into the oil during vehicle operation; after an overhaul of the engine.

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Features of the flushing procedure

The main task of flushing the engine before filling with new oil is to completely clean the system from the previous fluid and accumulated dirt or carbon deposits. To solve such a problem, it is required to use compositions that can dissolve solid growths, residues of resinous deposits and remnants of the old composition. To clean the motor, 2 main methods are used: the introduction of special additives into the oil before draining it, or pouring the flushing fluid after draining the old composition. Modern means of this purpose do a good job with the task, but, firstly, they are quite expensive, and, secondly, they have increased chemical aggressiveness, which can have a destructive effect on engine parts.

Diesel fuel has been used as a flushing fluid since its inception. Moreover, in the old days, when there were no special substances, diesel fuel, along with kerosene, was considered the best engine cleaner. This opinion of honored motorists is fully justified. Diesel fuel is a good solvent for many tarry residues and oily composition. It has good fluidity and, passing through the oil channels of the system, is able to dissolve slags, dirt, scale, oil clots and bring them out. Diesel fuel in its cleansing ability competes with modern flushing fluids. Moreover, it does not have any aggressive effect on metal, gaskets and seals. The reliability of the method for flushing the engine with diesel fuel has been tested over decades of operating cars of various brands.

Experienced motorists using the diesel method of cleaning recommend using a mixture of diesel fuel and oil. This mixture is prepared by mixing the ingredients evenly. Similar to diesel fuel, engine cleaning is sometimes carried out using kerosene, which has a high dissolving power in terms of its effect on oily and organic pollution.

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Carrying out the filling procedure

The engine is flushed with diesel fuel after draining the used oil. This drain is carried out in a standard way through an opening in the oil pan. For this, the car is installed on a viewing pit or overpass. Use a suitable wrench to loosen the drain plug. After a container is placed under it, the plug is unscrewed manually and abruptly pulled aside so that the oil jet is directed into the container. The used oil must be completely drained from the system.

The next step is to remove the oil filter, which is usually unscrewed by hand. The corresponding key is used if necessary. After that, a temporary oil filter is installed. It is needed only for the period of engine cleaning, therefore it is recommended to choose the cheapest option.

The flushing procedure is carried out in two stages. First, when the plug from the oil pan drain hole is removed, diesel fuel (a mixture of diesel fuel with oil or kerosene) is poured into the system with a sharp movement. The initial impulse of the pouring jet is necessary to ensure the gravity of the fluid throughout the system. The volume of diesel fuel poured in is about 2.5-3.5 liters. The cleaner should pass through the oil system and drain out of the drain hole at the bottom. Thus, the primary cleaning of the largest contaminants and remnants of the old composition is ensured.

The next stage of flushing is carried out with the plug closed, for which it returns to its place and is twisted by hand. Diesel fuel is poured into the lubrication system in a volume equal to the usual amount of oil poured in. After that, it is necessary to start the car engine for a short time and run it in the gas filling mode. The degree of cleaning of the system largely depends on this gas flow of the motor. It is important to control the temperature - the engine should not warm up to operating temperature.

The engine turns off and the drain plug is unscrewed again. All flooded diesel fuel is drained, while controlling the release of dirt. If pieces of dirt continue to come out with the last drops of solvent, then the flushing operation is performed again (with the engine running). Such procedures are carried out the required number of times. The duration is determined by the type of diesel fuel being drained.

Flushing stops when clear, clear liquid begins to flow from the drain hole.

The engine flush operation ends with a complete drain of the flushing fluid. Then the drain plug is tightly wrapped with a key. The temporary oil filter is dismantled and a new high-quality oil filter is manually screwed into its place for operation in operating conditions. After carrying out all the manipulations, you can safely fill in new oil. Naturally, after pouring a new composition, it is necessary to carefully check the tightness of the entire system, and then carry out a control trip by car.

Maintaining engines, assemblies and mechanisms in good working order is a complex of measures for care and maintenance. One of these measures is the cleaning of parts, which allows you to monitor their technical condition and promptly identify possible defects and problem areas. In addition, a clean mechanism is more efficient in operation and is less exposed to harmful effects such as carbon deposits, corrosion, etc. Despite the presence of a large number of modern technologies, equipment and detergents, rinsing of parts with kerosene is often used for cleaning, which belongs to traditional, or rather archaic, methods.

In a sense, such flushing can be called useful, since kerosene is able to remove most contaminants from the surface of parts and assemblies. At the same time, there are a number of contraindications for its use.

Why you shouldn't use kerosene to wash parts

Even small flushing of parts with kerosene must be carried out with precautions regarding sanitary and environmental standards, as well as in accordance with fire safety rules. As you can see, even the primary listing of negative factors looks quite impressive and leads to doubts. But there are other criteria, because of which it can be concluded that kerosene must be used for its intended purpose, and should not be used as a "simple" way to get rid of pollutants.

First of all, kerosene is a flammable, flammable, and in certain situations explosive substance. Therefore, there are certain difficulties with its safe storage, which should be carried out:

In tightly closed containers.
In places without direct sunlight.
Locations with low temperatures.
Far from open sources of fire or heating elements.
In well-ventilated or ventilated areas.

No less requirements than storage are imposed on the washing of parts with kerosene. First of all, the work must be carried out taking into account all the conditions listed above. In this case, the employee must wear protective gloves and prevent kerosene from getting on the skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. It is highly desirable to use a respirator, since the released volatile substances when the temperature in the room rises can lead to intoxication of the body and cause nausea, shortness of breath, and headache.

In turn, all this can in the long run lead to poisoning of the body and the emergence of acute or chronic diseases that will cause temporary disability. Moreover, inhalation of kerosene vapor is one of the causes of fatal pulmonary edema. It should be noted that, despite the fact that the volatility of kerosene vapors is lower than that of gasoline, they are more toxic.

In addition to harm to his own health, the employee also harms all the people around him, who may have the same symptoms. Moreover, kerosene has a negative impact on the environment as it is a toxic substance. All these and many other factors should make you wonder how safe and economically justified is the use of kerosene for washing parts. Especially when you consider that over the past decades, dozens of highly efficient and environmentally friendly special technologies, washing machines and cleaning agents with an economical mode of operation have been developed.

Modern detergents and the latest equipment for cleaning parts

LLC "Customs Technologies" is the official representative of IBS Scherer (Germany) on the territory of the Russian Federation. The German company has half a century of experience in the field of washing technologies, cleaning parts and individual components of various equipment, and is deservedly considered the world leader in this segment. Simple and effective solutions of this manufacturer allow you to easily and economically get rid of almost all types of pollutants in the shortest possible time, and the equipment, due to its reliability and practicality, receives a three-year warranty. Ours are very economical and reliable.

Among the main advantages of the IBS equipment, it is especially noted:

Ease of installation, dismantling, maintenance and operation. Washing units of this company do not have complex components and consist of a pump, a switch, a hose, a brush, a sink and a tank in the form of a barrel. Control is carried out by simply pressing the pedal.
The efficiency of the units. One barrel with a detergent composition can be used throughout the year thanks to the use of a closed cycle. Such a system works according to the self-cleaning scheme of the composition, where the consumable material is fed to the brush, after which the waste liquid is removed back into the tank, in which heavy particles of pollutant settle to the bottom. The clarified liquid is fed back to the brush from the middle of the barrel. It is also worth noting that the high efficiency of combining cleaning with a detergent composition and a mechanical method (brush) allows you to do without pre-heating this composition, which saves time and energy.

No less interesting are the properties that are an order of magnitude higher than those of kerosene. These include:

Absolute safety for the worker and the environment.
Choice of composition for different types of pollutants.
Possibility of choosing the physical and chemical properties of the composition in accordance with individual requirements and cleaning standards.
The possibility of using detergents that impart anti-corrosion properties to parts and surfaces by applying a finishing oil film, etc.

The capabilities of IBS equipment and cleaning agents are not limited to the specified set of properties and capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the list of products, it is better to go to the appropriate section, or to get up-to-date information from our professional consultants, contacting them in any convenient way.