Central switch and ignition lock.

Karoch is such a situevina.

Armed with three coils of wires, connectors for screws, a screwdriver and pliers, I began to collect the whole thing according to the "native" Kasyan scheme. Well naturally

An electrical circuit taken from the original K-750M manual.

In general, in the winter, while I was assembling the engine, I decided to install the generator at 12v, contrary to all the statements that 6v is good, 12 is more difficult to wiring if it shuts down immediately ... I needed a good light and for this I was ready to spend both time and my nerves 🙂
I started looking for the information I needed. Found a drawing of the adapter flange

and took it to the plant so that they could carve it for me ... Then I found another drawing, he also helped me a little



I waited, I waited for my flange, but they never made it ... A month passed, I walked around the bazaar in disappointment. I went to my favorite container with the details of Soviet moto equipment and chose something, and then looking up I saw the factory flange, a smile appeared on my face and I immediately bought it. It is a pity that I could not find his picture. Brought it home, and in the evening began to cut the crankcase. I sawed where with a grinder (thanks to the person who wrote that aluminum needs to be sawed with glasses, because hot shavings fly into the eyes), where with a hacksaw. Then I worked on a lot with a file. I did all this more than one evening. When I had turned everything according to the drawing, I decided to try it on, the teeth of the generator and the camshaft did not converge by about half a centimeter, then I still grinded off the crankcase wall and made the flange itself thinner. I put 3 washers on the generator under the gear. It seems that now everything is the same ... I was afraid to cut the threads and screw the pins into the crankcase "just like that", since the wall thickness was only 4mm. In my opinion, this was not enough. Then I fixed the flange as shown in the drawing above and drilled the holes, took the bolts 8 of the required length and slightly sharpened the caps and inserted them. I tried it on like it turned out not bad, then I missed the flange with sealant, and lubricated the bolts with super glue, screwed on the nuts on top, tightened it and left this thing to freeze until the next day. The next day, I cut out the gasket and tried to put the generator purchased from a friend in advance. Everything seems to work out, see the pictures below:


That's how it turned out roughly 🙂



The pictures above show the bolts about which I wrote above ... I think this option is much more reliable! You can also see that the gears match perfectly)
Further, while the engine was slowly going further, a battery and a voltage regulator 121.3702 were bought


Found a wiring diagram for all this miracle


and after installing the engine on the motorcycle, I completely re-laid all the wiring. The control lamp relay was taken in my opinion from some UAZ, maybe I'm wrong ...
Here are a couple of pictures of the generator already on the motorcycle:

I also want to say that the tap had to be installed from Java, since no other wanted to get in there.
I left the coil my own, a spark such as they write that the horse will kill too 🙂 I have left a lot on it, it heats up a little, but it works perfectly.

In conclusion: I have achieved the desired result! I installed a 50 / 60W halogen in the headlight. The light is such that I can't get enough of it 🙂 Even when overtaking almost any car, it illuminates the road better than a car.

I hope it was interesting for you to read this article, maybe it will even help someone. If you have any questions, please contact 🙂

Addendum: 12/22/2014

Not so long ago I rewound the generator, so several photos in better quality appeared:

Generator from tractor.

On the heavy motorcycles of the domestic motorcycle industry, there are weak G 424 generators designed for a maximum current of only about 15 amperes and a power of only 150 watts. In addition, they are too unreliable and often burn, since workmanship, to put it mildly, has no idea what the word quality means. I generally keep quiet about six-volt models of generators, many call them flashlights, since the diameter of the case and the luminous intensity are the same as those of the ancient battery-powered Soviet flashlights.

And only recently, on more modern motorcycles Ural Wolf, Voyage, they began to install generators with 500 watts. And then, until they began to be replaced with Japanese Denso generators, these generators either burned, or their case cracked at the attachment point. The generators of the Japanese company Denso, specially made by this company for Wolves, Voyages and some Sollo models, have not a small price and only 500 watts, which may not suit some fans with the right one.

Many owners of older Ural or Dnepr motorcycles also install generators from Japanese firms, but from cars. They still need to be found in working order at autodisassembly and at an affordable price, and if something burns out (they do not like short circuits), then it will be necessary to look for a Japanese part (relay, rectifier or winding), and as you know, Japanese spare parts are not cheap, even such common consumables as electric brushes.

I propose to install a three-phase generator from a tractor - 462.3701 on the boxed engine, which does not have erasable brushes at all, they are not provided for by the design. In addition, it has a capacity of 750 watts, and its new, more modern counterpart, which has recently appeared on the market and has the same dimensions, has a capacity of 1000 watts.

Its main advantage over Japanese generators is the cheapness of spare parts (for example, a charge relay costs about $ 3), although for seven years of operation, nothing on my motorcycle has burned out even once. Another advantage of this generator is that it can be bought literally for a penny in the nearest tractor brigade or in a special vehicle, there you can also buy a spare parts package just in case - a BPV-23-50 rectifier unit and an electronic voltage regulator Ya112B, an excitation coil and stator winding.

This generator was installed on almost all Soviet tractors, and on different tractors the difference was only in the diameter of the drive pulley. The main task when installing this generator on the opposite is: replacing the drive gear pulley, attaching it to the engine using a specially machined adapter, and connecting the electrical wiring.

By the way, the cover cases need to be modified with a cutter, adding oval holes for cooling (see photo above), since the cooling impeller is removed together with the pulley and without these ventilation holes the generator will be hot in summer. This is done naturally by disassembling the generator completely. Disassembly is also necessary to rework the shaft.

First, I machined the shaft to fit gears from K 750 on it. This gear has a smaller number of teeth, which means that the rotation speed will be higher than with the Ural or Dnieper gear, and this is important. With a gear from K 750, the generator gives charging already from idle speed, and with other gears with a large number of teeth, charging starts only after medium speed.

But it's not that. The gear from the six-volt cacique has a very thin wall in the area of \u200b\u200bthe key. After planting and holding the gear, I assembled and installed the generator on the motor. During the trip, I turned on all consumers for testing: 600-watt music, three headlights (300 watts), emergency lights, dimensions and lighting. The generator easily coped with such a load and still gave charging to a 61 amp battery, but the gear was not there - it just broke and opened in the area of \u200b\u200bthe key, like a book, because of the thin walls.

Having made my conclusions, I immediately took this gear to a familiar milling machine operator and ordered a gear with the same profile and number of teeth as on Kasikovskaya, but in the area of \u200b\u200bthe body key, there is much more, for a tapered fit. According to this cone in the new gear, a new generator rotor shaft was made for me, since the old shaft was machined for a smaller diameter (for the K750 gear).

It was possible, of course, to buy a new Kasik gear and press a metal ring onto it in the area of \u200b\u200bthe key, but since I had the opportunity to find steel for gears of the CT 12 XH 3 A brand and make a new one (see photo on the left), for a tapered fit, I did it did.

52 comments to the entry "Replacing a motorcycle generator with a more advanced 1000 or 750 watt."

Will the standard relief from the Urals fit such a generator? And what kind of relief is better to install))

Hello. A relay from the Urals will not fit such a generator and there is no sense in installing it on it. After all, there is a native relay for this generator, which is sold in any tractor spare parts store (its marking is in the text - Ya112B). After all, the generator described in the article is from a domestic tractor. And such a relay is very cheap compared to imported relays. I wrote about this in the article - its price is about 3 - 4 dollars. And only such a relay should be installed; there is a special place for it under the back cover of the generator, right on its body. In addition, such a relay is much smaller in size than a standard and ancient relay from the Urals.

Hello again, I have a couple more questions in advance thanks)). What is the shaft length ?, diameter? distance from gear to oil seals? distance between oil seals? Width and depth and grooves for oil seals? Gear length and diameter? Thanks a lot

Hello. The length of the shaft (rotor) and its diameter do not change (I did not even measure the length, there is no need for this), it is the same as in the standard factory version of a seven hundred-watt tractor generator. That is, you hardly change the factory shaft (rotor), you just grind a cone in the thread area, and all the dimensions are on the drawing. The same cone (reciprocal) is made inside the new gear (there is also a drawing of it).
I don’t remember about the distance from the oil seal to the gear (to measure it, I need to remove my generator from the motorcycle), but this will be visible when your generator is assembled together with the adapter. Indeed, there is a place for the oil seal in the adapter (35 mm in diameter, and approximately 18 mm deep). Both the width (35 mm) and the depth of the groove (18 mm) for the oil seal (it is one, but if you wish, you can stick in two and three) are indicated on the adapter drawing.
The length and diameter of the gear are indicated on the gear drawing, give the drawing to the gear maker and he will understand. The tooth profile and number of teeth are the same as on the K750 motorcycle generator gear. Good luck.

Adored Oleg Hello. Generator from a DC tractor and from the Urals AC. Overloading the battery may explode. I see two outputs or a diode bridge or additional relief. And how did you solve this problem, especially the tractor generator of 24 volts and the native Ural 12 volts?

Hello. The generator from the tractor produces an alternating voltage, which is supplied from the windings of its stator to the rectifier (diode bridge), which is installed under the rear aluminum cover. The generator of the Ural or Dnepr motorcycle works in the same way, that is, it gives out an alternating voltage, which is also rectified into a constant one, using a diode bridge located inside the Ural generator (you can disassemble and see). That is, the principle of their work is absolutely the same, ask any auto electrician. So there can be no question of overloading the battery.
The same applies to the relay-regulator, which works in the same way in the Urals and on the tractor, just maintaining the required voltage (but the relay does not rectify the current in any way).
As for the voltage, it is the same as on the Ural generator, that is, the tractor generator produces a voltage of 12-14 volts, but not 24 volts. 24 volts are given by the Kamaz generator.
So no voltage problem needs to be addressed. The only problem is to install a generator from a tractor in the Urals, you need to make an adapter and install a gear on the tractor generator shaft, instead of a pulley. And how to do this, I described in this article. Good luck.

Hello. Such a question about the oval cooling holes. After all, dust can, for example, get through them. Water is possible when you drive through a puddle. Will the generator fail due to this?

Hello. Even if dust gets into it, it is no more than all the car generators under the hood of any car. After all, most car generators have even more ventilation holes (and the 500-watt generator of the Ural wolf motorcycle too), and nothing works. In addition, as I wrote in the article, this generator has no brushes, and there is nothing to wear out, and the bearings are of a closed type, and they don't need dust.
And at the expense of water, so if you drive into a deep puddle on any motorcycle or car, then there will be no harm from the ingress of water through the ventilation holes, since the stator winding is insulated with varnish, and most likely a short circuit will occur in the place where the positive wire of the generator is connected, and a relay regulator (shekoladka) is installed, that is, from the outside.
Well, you understand, if you run over an ordinary puddle on a motorcycle, then nothing will happen, since the spray of water immediately evaporates on the hot engine and generator.
Well, if you decide to move a very deep puddle, or a river ford, then any car can have a short circuit from the wires and relays, and not from the ventilation holes. And in general, for extreme sports there are cross-country motorcycles with a generator located inside the engine, and some cross-cars do not have a generator at all. So everything is within reason.

Yes. I looked at a photo of generators 14.3771 and denso. They just have similar holes. And this was done by the plant.
Of course, there are many questions. So I think, try to put such a generator on the Urals or not. In the article you write about the manufacture of a gear, similar to that of the K750. But if you put the standard Ural one. Okay there with idle charging. Thoughts are different. The weight of the generator is more than that of the native one, by about 2 kg. Hence the thought that the timing gears will be eaten more. At the same time, I do not intend to heavily load the generator - music, additional lighting, etc. Just put a starter battery (for example, capacity 18 A / h, cold cranking current 270 A) and a more powerful low / high beam lamp. Well, you can replace the marker lamps with LED ones for relief.
Or is there no point in this? Leave the same G424 with the corresponding battery, and make a more powerful headlight light by replacing the marker lamps with LED ones?

I don't know how much more a 700 watt generator weighs than a standard one, but the weight of the generator does not affect the load on the gears and their wear. The load on the generator rotor and, accordingly, on the guitar gears and their wear rate, depends only on the number of consumers (lights, music, heated steering grips, etc.) And the more there are, the harder it is to turn the generator rotor and the greater the load on the gears ...
But the total number of consumers is very rarely used. For example, I rarely turn on music on my Dnieper (it is 600 watts) at night when all three headlights are on. Basically only during the day, when the headlights are not on or only one is on. In addition, I have a powerful 60-amp battery, and at low and medium speeds, part of the electricity is sucked out of the battery and the load on the generator is less.
Anyway, the pleasure of consumers (for example, from high-quality music or good light) is worth changing the gears if they suddenly wear out. Although I have been listening to music for the fifth year and always drive at night with three headlights on (300 watts of light) and have not changed the gears yet. Most likely this is due to the fact that every spring I change the engine oil, regardless of the mileage. And for 10 years until now, I have not even changed the piston rings.
Well, on account of whether to put you 700 quilted jacket or leave a regular generator, with a pitiful 150 watts, it's up to you. By the way, many people complain that they often fail, especially after an increase in the number of consumers. And on 700 quilted jacket and there is nothing to wear, except for bearings, because it does not even have brushes.
In addition, if you install a battery that is twice as powerful, then the standard generator, designed for a battery of only 9 amperes, should be replaced.
However, I'm not going to persuade anyone, I will say the main thing - POWER, like money, does not happen much. It is a pity that many drivers begin to understand this only later.

According to the documentation, G424 weighs 3.8kg, G700 - 5.4kg, G1000 - 5.7kg. I'm inclined to put it on the G1000, although I haven't decided exactly yet. It was the weight that confused the fact that the difference in the weight of the rotors was more likely, and hence the speculation about the rapid wear of the gears.
The main goal is more powerful high beam illumination, because the standard does not suit.

(I accidentally sent the unfinished one. Sorry.)
A more powerful lighting standard generator and battery do not pull.
Which battery to install depends on the generator. The question arises here - is it necessary to put a powerful battery with a powerful generator. Some say that it is necessary because the generator needs some load, otherwise the power consumers and the generator itself will fail. An example of this is dropping the terminals from the battery with the engine running with a standard generator and battery. Personally, I did such experiments, some of my light bulbs burned out. But if you put a powerful generator, then of course a powerful battery is better, because the quality of the standard ones is poor.
Of course, I want to put a powerful generator in order to supply a powerful light, a normal battery, in which I will be more confident. Here, if only not to make things worse in general.

Hello! Should such a generator with a gear wheel from K750 be used on the Dnieper engine?

Hello Dmitry. On the Dnieper engine, such a generator becomes without problems, look carefully at the topmost photo at the beginning of the text, it shows such a generator on my Dnieper motor. I have had such a generator on the Dnieper for 9 years and has never broken down. It allowed me to install 300 watts of light and 600 watts of music on my bike, and not only that.

Hello Oleg.
Plan washer for gears for 18 teeth and 16 teeth are different?
I got a 16-tooth gear, the size of 18. In general, it is made on a standard 12-volt Dnieper generator. I just can't adjust the gap between the timing gear and the generator gear. Friends drove a working tractor generator. So I'm thinking of making a generator from it for the Dnieper. Maybe there are some nuances with a gear for 16 teeth? Share your experience

Hello Dmitry. The adapter faceplate for gears with 18 or 16 teeth does not differ and does not depend on the number of teeth. And only the thickness of the faceplate depends on the height of the gear. If, for example, you bought a gear that is higher in height and which will be put on the rotor shaft of the generator and will at the same time protrude into the crankcase more strongly, then you will have to make a thicker faceplate. That is, if you bought some non-standard gear (it is higher in height or lower than the standard Dnieper), you need to make the adapter thicker (if the gear is higher) or thinner (if the gear is lower) by exactly as many millimeters as the gear is higher (or lower) standard and ensure that the generator gear and the camshaft gear are in line. If your gear is the same in height as from the K-750 (or like the one that I made and showed in the article) then make the adapter as in the drawing in the article and everything will be OK. I hope this is clear.
And about adjusting the gap, if you make an adapter as in the article and install it with a tractor generator, then it will not be difficult to adjust the gap, since the adapter is with an offset center.
A gear with 16 teeth is preferable to 18 and I wrote about this article, since the rotor of a generator with a 16 tooth gear will spin a little faster than with an 18 and will charge even at low speeds. That's all the nuances (this is described in the article).
And the last - the main thing in this matter, as I said, is to ensure that the generator gear and the camshaft gear work on the same line and are not displaced relative to each other. Well, adjusting the gap is not a problem in terms of the sound of operation, turning the generator left and right until you find the quietest operating mode. After that, tighten the nuts securing the adapter to the generator, that's all. Good luck.

Thanks a lot, Oleg.

You are welcome. Glad to be helpful.

Good day! Oleg, is it possible to order an adapter for a generator from you?

Hello Dmitry. I ordered an adapter for my generator from a turner (at a local factory), which I advise you, for this I laid out the drawings. At the moment I have purchased 2 lathes, but they have been disassembled and restored so far, so excuse me.

Will such a generator fit on M-72? Will there be enough space for him?

Hello. It will stand if you make an appropriate adapter and modify the engine crankcase.

Hello, I have such a question, but there is a difference between the generators g 466.3701 and 462.3701, I just have 466.3701, but I don't know the dimensions of the other visually from the photo, they are the same difference only in the pulleys and whether this adapter is suitable, thanks in advance

Hello Andrei. All 700-watt Soviet tractor generators differed only in the diameter of the pulleys (well, their relay-regulator was improved over time) and therefore this adapter is suitable for both generators that you described.

Hello!
Can you please tell me, is this faceplate suitable for a 6-volt Ural (m-66) or is it necessary to increase the eccentricity?
Many thanks for earlier, Konstantin

Hello Konstantin. Suitable if you use a tractor generator and modify the crankcase of your motorcycle by removing excess aluminum and tapping in the crankcase (in the right places) to screw in the generator mounting studs.

Good afternoon, please tell me the generator from the Zaporozhets will fit ??

Good afternoon, please tell me the generator from the Cossack will fit?

Hello. There is no point in bothering with a Zaporizhzhya generator, since it is slightly larger in size and half the power than a tractor generator (only 30 Amperes instead of 60).

Good day! I read somewhere that you can not make a new washer plan again, but use the front cover from the native 424 generator. Is it so? And what if so? Thanks.

Hello Denis. Once I thought about making an adapter from the front of my own generator, but then I gave up on this business. Indeed, for the manufacture of a faceplate from the front cover, turning and milling work will also be required. And in order to order something (some kind of part) to a milling machine or turner, it is much easier for them to do it from scratch (from a bare blank) according to the drawing, and not think about how and what to remake from the lid and remember what you indicated to sharpen. But this is not the main thing, but the fact that the wall of the front cover of the native generator is too thin in order to play the role of a faceplate and hold a heavier tractor generator. After all, it will still need to remove the metal in it in order to make a landing for the front collar of the tractor generator, and this will not be allowed by the small thickness of the front wall of the cover. And the material of the cover of the native generator is not particularly durable. But for a faceplate made from scratch, you can choose any more durable material (steel, stainless steel, etc.), for example, I ordered a faceplate made of titanium, which is very durable and lightweight. And you can always sell your native 424th generator, and with this money you can buy a used tractor generator, or pay for turning work. In general, something like that and therefore I gave up this venture.

Oleg! Good day. I made a 1000 tractor generator. There was trouble…. In general, the question is - I have a motorcycle battery for 17 Ah, 160 A, will it boil over with such a powerful generator!

Hello Dmitry. Whether your battery will boil off or not depends not at all on the generator (whatever its power, the main thing is that the generator is in good working order), but on the correct operation of the regulator relay. And since the relay-regulator is installed native to this generator (that is, under its back cover) and if your relay-generator is working properly, then there will be no problems with overcharging and with boiling water from the battery electrolyte, I assure you. Moreover, now, according to the rules, you must always drive with light even during the day and the normal load on the generator will be constant (in addition to the battery charge), so everything will be OK. Good luck.

Thank you for your reply.

Good afternoon. Oleg, could you make such a generator with gears and adapters to order? My number 89680307407 call anytime

Hello Pavel. I made this generator for my Dnepr motorcycle a few years ago and described in detail the stages of work, so that everyone could repeat it and do it for themselves. I do not deal with custom-made generators, I just do not have time for this. So sorry.

Good evening, Oleg. I set up a 700-watt tractor generator in my Urals. with a standard battery, it drove 25 km, it warmed up and began to throw out the electrolyte (((this moment was very upsetting. I would not want to put the battery in the carriage.

on a tractor, after all, this generator turns two times quieter than on a motorcycle, maybe the relay is not coping?

measured the voltage, at high speeds of 21 volts. replaced several relays., no change.

Hello Ilya. I already wrote about this in the comments. The problem is not in the battery, but in the relay regulator or in the generator itself. If the generator and the relay regulator are in good working order and work normally (and give out no more than 14.5 volts), then the capacity of the battery does not matter. If the relay or generator is faulty, then the large car battery will boil. So check the relay-regulator (I wrote a separate article on the site how to check it - look in the site map), as well as the diode bridge of the generator - how to check it is also an article. Since if one of the diodes is out of order, then the voltage can also be overestimated and the battery will boil. In general, for a start, take a voltmeter (multimeter) and check, by connecting the probes to the battery pole pins, what voltage comes to the battery when the motor is running. At maximum speed, there should be no more than 14.5 volts.

Hello again Ilya. If the relay was changed, but there are no changes, the generator and its diode bridge should be checked (if one of the diodes is out of order, then the voltage will be overestimated). I have articles on my site on how to check the generator (and its repair) and how to check the diode bridge. Most likely the reason is in them. Good luck.

Whatever the speed, it is twice as quiet or twice as much - the generator, if it is in good working order, together with a working relay-regulator should give out no more than 14.5 volts. So the speed of the generator rotor does not matter. The reason for the increased voltage is different.

Hey. Tell me please, does it not get warm at all? I installed it for myself, but without ventilation holes - it gets very hot when driving around the city - you can't directly touch it. Not everyone makes these holes, and the insulating gaskets on the stator will burn out, if nothing else.

Good day Nikita. My generator also heats up, especially in summer in extreme heat, since its body lies on the engine and the front and lower parts of the generator body touch the engine crankcase (as opposed to attaching the generator through silent blocks on tractors). But you can hold your hand on the generator case and still save the ventilation holes, and for 7 years of operation of my generator, nothing in it burned out. And although it does not have a cooling impeller, the rotor (armature) of the generator at high speeds acts as a fan and sucks air well from the outside, precisely through the holes I made in the case and expels air through other holes on the other side of the case.
Well, the fact that the insulating gaskets will burn out if there are no holes is unlikely, since they are made of heat-resistant material, but the lacquer insulation of the stator winding can suffer, with strong heating, which can lead to turn-to-turn closure. Therefore, it is advisable to make ventilation holes.
If it is not yet possible to make the ventilation holes, then I advise you to grind off the generator case a little more, grind off the crankcase a little more in the place where it touches the crankcase and the crankcase itself (although you can’t grind it much and you need to be careful) and be sure to install a thermal insulation gasket between the generator and the crankcase, for example, made of paronite or thin PCB - it will slightly lower the temperature of the case. Good luck.

Hello. We are just making the G700 and G1000 generators. If you are not too lazy - skinte the connecting dimensions and the required dimensions for your motorcycle, and I will estimate the possibility of modifying our generator at the factory. If there is an order of 5 pieces or more, we will make the ones you need, no problem. This is the plant OOO "Electrom" Cheboksary. The generators can be viewed on our website. The request can be sent to the mail of the design department or to me - [email protected]

Greetings! Such a question, put the generator mtzshny, relyukha 68370. The control is constantly on, does not go out. The wire from the lk is connected to the terminal D. AKB disconnected when the engine is running, it works, does not stall. How to make the lamp go out, is there an option? For earlier thanks ...

Hello Pavel. I do not know in what state your relay is, perhaps the problem is in it (it does not turn off the lamp when the pressure rises). First of all, you need to take a multimeter, turn it on in voltmeter mode and see what voltage the generator produces. In general, it is advisable to check the operation of the generator and relay-regulator. The generator should produce no more than 14.5 volts (how to check it, there is an article on the site). The voltage with increasing revolutions should increase (but preferably no more than 14.5 V, in the extreme case at the highest revolutions a maximum of 14.8 V), and with decreasing revolutions, the springs should fall. Well, it is very desirable to check the operation of the relay controller itself. I also have a detailed article about this on my website. There I described everything in detail, by the way, and about what voltage should be. In general, something like this. In general, if I were next to your motorcycle with a multimeter in my hands, then of course I would more accurately determine the cause of the malfunction.

Central switch and ignition lock motorcycle K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MT-9

On motorcycles K-750M, MV-750, K-650, MT-9 and MV-750M, a central switch is installed, made at the same time with the ignition lock, having common parts with it and mounted in the headlight of the motorcycle.

The central switch (fig. 96) is used to turn on the ignition circuit, signal and lighting circuit of the motorcycle.

The center switch is attached to the inside of the headlamp by three screws, screwed from the outside into the switch cover, and consists of a base on which the housing, moving contact and terminals are mounted.

The hole for the ignition key in the switch cover is closed with a slider to prevent moisture from entering during precipitation.

Next to the switch, in the headlight, there is a warning lamp and a 15 amp central fuse.

During the operation of motorcycles, it is sometimes necessary to replace a blown central fuse or a headlight warning lamp.

To replace the fuse, use a screwdriver to unscrew the holder located on the right side of the headlight. The control lamp is replaced from the inside of the headlamp, for which the rim with the diffuser and the reflector is previously separated from the headlamp housing.

The MV-650 motorcycle has a central switch of the VK-857 type (Fig. 97), mounted on the instrument panel, made at the same time with the ignition lock and having common parts with it.

The MV-650 ignition lock consists of a body 1, which has a locking cylinder 2, with an ignition key 3 of an automobile type. In the lower part of the body there are seven terminals to which they are connected: plus from the power supply (terminals 1-1), ignition (terminals 2-2),

motorcycle side lights (terminals 3-3) and headlight (terminal 4).

Turning the ignition key turns the locking cylinder and with it a movable contact connecting the terminals in various combinations (Fig. 98):

0 - the key is inserted all the way - all devices are turned off;

I - the key is inserted all the way and turned counterclockwise - the ignition, the side lights of the motorcycle and the parking light lamp in the headlight are on (the parking light continues to burn when the ignition key is removed in this position);

II - the key is inserted as far as it will go and turned clockwise to the first fixed position - the ignition, headlamp and side lights are on (driving at night);

III - the key is inserted all the way and turned clockwise to the second fixed position - the ignition, parking lights and direction indicators are on.

The warning lamps and instruments of the motorcycle are turned on in all three positions of the ignition key, except for “0”.