If the timing belt slides towards the engine, this is one of the causes of the drive belt wear of the gas distribution mechanism. Belt, as if "devouring". The slip effect occurs as a result of inconsistency between the pullees of parts included in the MRM. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the tension roller is to blame. In the technical documentation, which is attached by the manufacturer to each car brand, has their own tightening torques of threaded connections. For the tension roller mounting bolt, this value is 4.2 N * m. But this is the Russian mentality, few people look into technical documentation. Most do not even know what it is. Even the engine repair for our masters turned gradually into the tightening "on Avos" with a heap of pipes of different lengths.
Let us explain what the "wines" of the stretch roller is manifested. As you know, it is installed on the threaded pin. When the owner of the car changes the drive belt of the gas distribution mechanism, it does not even think about how to tighten the bolt of its fastening after the belt tension. We drag everything always with all our strength. It is not right. When applying too much effort, the hairpin is bent toward the cylinder block for a slight distance. But this is enough for the timing belt begins to slide to the engine. Of course, you can do the replacement of the hairpin and everything will fall into place. By the way, a similar method is the only straighter to correct the stud, which begged that the belt is lying almost completely. A variant that we describe below is no longer suitable for eliminating a malfunction.
I dig in the old garbage, or we go to the store and buy Coca Coca Bank. The one that is made of aluminum. Its thickness is approximately equal to 0.1 mm. Under the diameter of the heel cut 2 - 3 washers, more precisely, their half. Low them under the right side of the tensioning roller. Attention! Place the washers only on the remote ring, otherwise all the work will be in vain. Typically, the installations of two hemispanders are enough to stop sliding the timing belt to the engine.
Install the timing valve, pull the belt and start the engine. Visually check if the belt crashes. We recommend doing it through each 1000 km of the run after the procedure. If the belt continues to slide, then put another hemisphere. If the lined washers could not fix anything, then the reason is no longer in the tensioning roller. Or simply, the tensioner's hairpin is so curve that it is possible to correct the problem only with its replacement.
Many owners of the front-wheel drive cars VAZ, after a certain period of operation, managed to face what the timing belt slides to the engine (which happens more often), or vice versa from the engine. At the same time, the edge of the belt begins to braid about the engine details, the flashes of the stretch roller, cord threads break. And if it is not noticed on time, at the most inopportune moment the timing belt breaks. If on the eight valve vaja engine the consequences of the timing belt cliff are threaten only the engine stopping, then on a 16 valve repair of the GBC is poured into a rather round sum. Now consider the reasons for the crashing of the toothed belt and the ways to eliminate this fault.
Why crap timber rods.
The reason can be both alone and several in the aggregate. Consider them in order.
1. A belt itself can be to blame, or rather, the manufacturer's marriage. A strap having different rigidity in width starts to sail towards less stiffness almost immediately after installation. In this case, the diagnosis in this case is simple, remove, turn over the other party, install and if it starts to crawl into the other direction, the culprit is found. Such a belt is definitely in the pit. Justice is worth noting - now this is found much less frequently. Tip: Always keep in the trunk in the reserve of timing belts and generator.
2. Waterproof bearing wear (pump). When the belt is removed, shook the toothed pulley. The backlash's backlash is unacceptable, so we change, without thinking, still flows soon. If problems started after replacing the pump, then it may be when installing a new part, poorly cleaned from the old gasket, the block surface of the block and the pump housing has become with distortion. It happens that the pump itself is made "crooked", well, there was no turnover.
3. The most common cause is the bending of the stiletto fastening of the tensioner, with an unqualified replacement. "By lettering" moment of tightening nuts of the eccentric roller is only 4.2 kgf / m, and if tightening "from the heart", then the M10 pin can be slightly stolen, and even 0.1 mm of bias will be enough to slide the belt to the side. Straighten the hairpin is practically unrealistic. Alternatively, you can try to twist it from the block and screw the other side. I passed this option. But there is a way better. Described in the journal "Driving". Pictures from there.
Cutting washers are cut out of the tin beer, to size the remote ring installed between the block and the eccentric of the tensioner roller. Cut in half in the form of a crescent, for more thin, or bend and fold for thicker.
After that, installed according to the scheme. Closer to the center of the block (1), if the belt slides to the engine, closer to the edge (2) if the belt crawls outward. When installing, the washers do not fall, I recommend gluing their sealant.
The thickness of the set is selected experimentally. The method is simple and very effective.
4. By the way, the culprit is often a tensioning roller. Now they are made on the single-row ball bearings, and the support surface for the belt is often far from ideal (taper, ovality and even stepbecope). Therefore, the choice of roller should be approached as picky as possible and carefully. The backlash's backlash should be minimal, work surface, at least "on the eye" must be smooth and smooth. Before installing, it is not possible to be lazy and check in the bearing presence of lubrication. How neatly b. Very often on this greatly "save".
5. I repeat a little. There may be several implicit, practically inconspicuous causing, which one of one and define is difficult, but in the amount they fully cope with the belt shift to the side. And here the adjusting washers will be just a panacea.
Replacing the timing belt (gas distribution mechanism) on eight valve motors of front-wheel drive vehicles, at first glance, no difficulty. However, very often a new belt begins to move the camshaft gears. At the same time, the edge is erased about the tension roller bourge. Like any other repair of car VAZ, these problems can be solved in the garage, without the help of a hundred.
The first is the reason that the belt is driven to the block, it is his hauling. If the stream is not homogeneous, he will also begin to shift on the gears of the timing of timing. Check if the quality of the product is guilty, easy. If it goes to one side, and after his turn, it begins to drive off in the opposite direction, he clearly asks for replacement.
The belt can shift and due to the poor-quality tensioning roller, which can entail the knuckle of the valves. In most rollers on sale, a single row bearing is used. With the slightest backlash in it, the working surface of the roller receives a certain slope relative to the axis of rotation, and it slides towards tilt. Cone, or oval working surface of the roller, whose body is cast from plastic, also contributes to slipping. Therefore, when buying a tensioner roller, you need to choose them with a metal case, or with a two-row bearing from the famous manufacturer.
Installation of a water pump with a breakdown relative to the cylinder block due to a large amount of sealant under its gasket and uneven tightening of the fastening bolts, as well as a large backlash in the pump bearings, also lead to the timing belt displacement during the operation of the motor. If the water pump is changing at the same time, the work must be made carefully. Remembering the consequences of the incorrect pump installation.
The stylus of the tensioning roller is not tightened to the head of the block, can cause the timing belt shift and its wear. The same consequences also leads the drawn thread of the studs in the body of the GBC (head of the cylinder block). When replacing, for these moments you need to pay attention. To tighten the nut of the tensioning roller, you need to use a torque wrench, adjusting it to the effort of 42 N.M.
Motors with a mileage of about 100,000 km. And more, as a rule, the gear of the timing drive on the crankshaft shaft is worn. The wear of the gear, in turn, leads again to the displacement of the timing. When the belt begins to drive to the cylinder block due to the worn out gear of the KV (crankshaft), it happens even that the edge protects the head of the bolt of the oil pump bolt, located nearby. With higher the specified runs, you need to be prepared for replacing the gear along with the belt.
Such difficulties can expect when performing such a simple replacement operation. You need to be prepared.
All car details over time can "grow old", wear out. Each of the car owners, sooner or later, faces the situation when you need to change the spare part. Rubber ring cracking quarrel is very common, especially among VAZ owners. We learn what causes the reasons for this.
Causes of slipping
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As a rule, complications of eight-chipped internal combustion engine per 1.5 l after the scheduled change of the Rubber product of the timing product, the "exhausted" issued resource, familiar to many owners. It is that the new item now scores that inevitably leads to her cliff. If there were mutual collision of valve-piston elements on such motors with a rhubber rings, the overhaul would not be able to avoid anything.
But on the 16-valve unit, the results of the rings of the timing rings are much sadder. In this case, one motor stop will not end.
On the other hand, why nevertheless the belt goes? And this happens both in the direction of the power plant and back. Well, how many can be changed the belt, it's time to find the cause and eradicate it.
Cause 1: Belt Belt
The fact that in our days the quality of new details does not stand criticism, no one surprises. And it will be correct to say that the main factor of scabs is just the neorigability and not the quality of the timing belt. It is no secret that the rubber element with an uneven structure, which has a stretch property in certain places in different ways, is no longer an option. Such a belt will always have a skew, even imperceptible to the eye, but extremely negatively affecting the work of the part.
Note. You can check the belt curve as follows. It is necessary to turn it on the drive, and then diagnose work in this position. If the belt starts sliding in the other direction - the problem is in the belt itself.
The manufacturer's error that made the product marriage gives us a belt with different rigidity in width. As a result, the rubber part under the influence of the "floats" in the direction of less elasticity. And it happens in fact immediately after installation.
Cause 2: Pomp
The second common cause is associated with the backlash of the pump shaft. In the people, such a problem is called "Pump rock". The presence of a play is easy to determine enough: you need to remove the belt and check the pump gear for exchanging. If the backlash is available, the pump will have to be replaced, as sooner or later it will completely fail if this has not happened.
Often the pump is simply "crooked". Maybe the turner was under this case, or something else, but it really happens. In addition, the problems often begin after replacing the pump to a new one. In this case, it is recommended to check how the bond surface is cleaned. It is possible that when installing a new pump, the railway area was poorly purified from pieces of old gasket. As a result, the pump was not in place, with a skewer.
Finally, over time, the pump bearings can be wary, which will lead to problems with work.
Cause 3: NTZH Roller
The third common cause is a tensioning roller or NTG. Being a high-precision device, it does not accept any deviations, even the smallest. From the accuracy of the characteristics of its components depends the correct operation of the NTG roller. In the case of crawling the belt, everything is simple: if the NTZH roller is originally a curve, it will move the rubber ring of the timing of the Wide, thereby causing the edge of the rubber part.
In addition, the most common cause of the problem of sliding the belt associated with the NTZH roller is the bending of the fixation studs. This happens, again, with the "dilatant" roller replacement when the tightening is not at the proper level. Any special will confirm that it is impossible to delay the nut of the eccentric "from the heart", since the hairpin can easily come up, and any inconsistency, as mentioned above, adversely affects the sensitive video.
It is almost impossible to straighten this stud. On the other hand, there is an option to twist it from the block, and then put the opposite side.
But there is another effective way. It is necessary to cut the pucks from the tin can, and then put them between the block and the eccentric of the NTG roller.
This method will help to resolve and complications with the GRM rubber ring scrap:
- If the belt slides to the motor, it is recommended to put homemade washers closer to the block.
- If the belt slides from the motor, it is advisable to put the washers closer to the edge.
The thickness of the washer is selected depending on the situation. If you need to reduce the washer, it is simply cut into two halves of the crescent. If you increase - bend in half.
It will be useful to know that some car owners recommend putting on Vases of NTZH Roller of an old sample. It has another design compared to the NTH of the last samples.
Of course, the problem with the location of the belt by replacing the NTZH roller is not solved, but determine the belt wear will be easier. Recall that the roller of the old sample is a metallic side, and the modern is plastic. It turns out that the NTZH roller of the old sample will sweep the belt more noticeable than the part with a plastic side.
In some cases, the timber ring with a rubber ring can be resolved by tonging the NTG in the direction of the camshaft. In this case, a large point of breakfast is formed on the top of the ring, but this may adversely affect the correct conditions of the functioning of the entire GRS mechanism.
It will be more correct when replacing the NTG roller to a new one, pay attention to the quality of the product. As mentioned above, modern products will not only be pusted in front of the old samples of the material, but also performed on the 1-row ball bearing. In addition, the surface of NTZH rollers can be far from ideal: cone, oval and even stepbeled occurs often.
And of course, it is necessary to carefully check the NTS Roller on the backlash (must be meager) and on the surface without protrusions or irregularities.
Finally, when installing, it is necessary to check if the roller bearings are lubricant. Do not be surprised, in our time they can save even on it.
Original solution solution
In most cases, the arrangement of the timing belt implies the adjustment of the remote washer installed on the NTG roller. Experienced masters and motorists advise to inspect this very puck, check if it is not delivered by the opposite side.
Indeed, the dilettantism workers workers in some cases simply infuriates. Practicing even a few years of mechanics may simply not notice the liner on the remote washer indicating the right side. Yes, it is applied to acrylic varnish and may not be noticeable, but if you look closely, it can be seen.
What is the function of the remote washer? The main cause of the slaughter of the belt, as was written above, is not at all the misalignment of the crankshaft, but it is the initial irregularity of the working surface. Knowing it, on AvtoVAZ constructors and mechanics initially invented align the seat with a remote walker. And put it on acrylic glue.
All this is understandable, only that is why the AvtoVAZ could not solve the problem with the OBS somehow? It turns out that there is also an inherent laziness and reluctance to work until the end.
According to the standard, all engines collected on AvtoVAZ should be checked on the conveyor. If the problem with the location of the belt is detected, the power plants are sent to refinement to special workshops, where uncle Vasi and Uncle Kolya simply, for the sake of saving time, are remote washers. Just and brilliant, and what will happen to the engine after a long run, when the belt is replaced, the manufacturer does not care. The main thing is to provide a factory guarantee, and a clearly defective engine can be represented as a completely worker. These are the pies.
Therefore, if the car mechanics beat and break their heads over the problem of the location of the belt, and can not think of anything, it is possible that the engine is simply from the category of defective and refined uncle Vasya.
The problem is also solved simply: the washer, firstly, is put on the right side, and, secondly, it is told on sharpening or growing on the one hand. If you do everything correctly, the belt will walk clearly and exactly on the handwheel siege from the first time, and will not jump anywhere.
Selection of high-quality timing belt
Often the problem of the belt scrap is connected with the low quality of the product itself. For this reason, knowledge of the competent choice of belt will have much benefit.
First of all, it should be noted that today there are several popular belt manufacturers. Their products are worth buying, but again it is not thoughtlessly, but carefully checking, since no one excluded fakes and marriages.
Note. If you can choose a belt for other attachments of the car, then for the GRS mechanism only high-quality, good, even for considerable money. This is an axiom that every driver vehicle should know. It is not worthwhile to write about what troubles can begin due to a belt cliff by the engine.
So, we proceed directly to the choice of a good timing belt.
Contitega
The belts of the company "Contiteg" are supplied to almost all countries of the world, and the main consumers of products of this company are such giants of the auto industry, such as Volkswagen, Fiat, Opel and others.
As you know, recently, CONTITECH has purchased several subsidiaries in Middle Kingdom, which indicates the expansion of the sphere of influence in Asia, and all over the world. Today, it is in China that almost everything is done, just need to be able to distinguish the official Chinese plants from the "left".
So, soon the conteg in the market is expected in the market and with a Chinese logo, but it is unlikely to affect quality.
Today, the timing belts from the concentheg are considered the best for installation not only in foreign cars, but also on domestic cars. They are reliable, rarely rush, for a long time.
This does not mean that putting the belt from the Conceduge, you can forget about the deadlines for operation and proper care. Despite the high reliability of the products of this brand, with non-compliance with the rules of operation, not to avoid problems.
Daiko
The oldest manufacturer of belts for motors. "Dayco Aftermarket" in addition to the timing belts also produces NTG good quality rollers, various attachments and pumps.
All products fully comply with the norms of automakers of the giants.
Interestingly, "Daiko" delivers its products not only to the primary markets of sales, but also provides secondary platforms. This is done in favor of the repair needs of car owners of various social status.
The "secondary" manufacturer is so developed that it is divided into two geographical zones. Separately, products go to S.Amerik, separately - to other countries.
Many car owners prefer belts of other firms, bypassing the Daiko products, only for one reason - ads are bribed. The same "Concentheg" occupies a higher position in comparison with Daiko on a competitive staircase not due to the quality of its products (it is good, no words), and thanks to a powerful advertising company.
But "Daika" takes another. His products, as he believes, do not need a pian. Indeed, in the circle of the elected exactly, this manufacturer is considered better, despite the second place in the world ranking.
Note that in "Daika" periodically update technologies, moving to more advanced techniques. As a result, the belts of this company are always featured by the highest parameters of wear resistance.
For some reason, in Russia, Daiko products are not very popular. Most likely, it is from ignorance. And maybe this affected the negative quality of products that are also available.
| Positive qualities of timing belts Dayco | Negative qualities of timing belts Dayco |
| Relatively low cost. | Belt gusts after a minor run. |
| High wear resistance and low noise, thanks to the special teflon coating of the timing belts of the timing belts. This technology is patented by the manufacturer of Daiko and rifters in the most modern cars with high requirements for wear resistance of increased strength. | There are moments when the belt is stretched without moving the laid life. |
| Vibration Noise of work and belt after changing the timing set. |
In addition to this belt "Daika", it is often formed, which also adversely affects the relationship between the consumer / manufacturer.
Diako's high-quality belt from fake, in principle, not as difficult. Usually, look at the packaging: if it is light blue or dark blue, it should be straps of American or Italian production.
It is also characteristic that the original belts "Daiko" from the wrong side are covered with a special white film (as a rule, the fakes of this film do not have).
And several general tips:
- Belts should not be too hard.
- From the products should not go unpleasant odor.
- The marking must be applied the loop, not to have blur.
Video about why scabs strap
We hope that the article was useful for the reader. In any case, you learned the main reasons why scores the timing belt, and what can be done to eliminate this problem. Especially interesting to adjust the belt using the remote washer. We recommend to attention also a video review representing the theory of DVS: why scabs or tear the belt.
Many owners of the front-wheel drive vases worries the problem, why eats timing belt? Most often, the owners of the following models of VAZ - 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2108, 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114, Kalina, Priora, Grant (and this problem is found on engines both from 8 and with 16 valves). The general answer to the voiced question is one - the belt skew occurs. And he, in turn, can occur in a number of reasons - the pump is unevenly installed, a poor-quality video, between the roller and the unit installed in the size of the washer (or it is missing at all) and some others. Each of the listed problems is solved in its own way. In most cases, the elimination of reasons can be carried out independently, subject to the availability of appropriate experience and tools. This will save money, and the fulfillment of repair work does not take much time and effort.
Causes why eats timing belt
There are seven major reasons all the main reasons why the timing belt eats. To begin with, we simply list and describe them, and in the next section we will tell you how every problem can be solved.
The stud may bend if it is spinning with a moment more than 4.2 kgf · m. Data are relevant for all front-wheel drive VAZ, where this problem is most common.
As practice shows, the latter reason described is most often found. And motorists invented a universal method, with which you can fix the situation.
Methods to eliminate breakdowns
Now list the methods of eliminating these reasons. Let's go in the same order.
- Belt stretch. First you need to check the level of the stretch and compare it with the one that recommends the car manufacturer (usually indicated in the technical documentation for the machine, can also be found on the Internet). If this value is higher than the recommended, then you need to weaken the tension. This is done using a dynamometric key. If you do not have it, it is better to contact the car service. In the extreme case, you can perform this procedure "on the eye", but with the first to use the specified instruments. Also for this you can use a regular dynamometer and a regular key.
- Non-quality belt. If on two edges of the belt is different rigidity, then the situation will occur when the timing roller eats a belt with a softer side. You can check this by replacing its right and left side. If, after replacement, the second side will not wear, it means that the belt is to blame. The exit here is one, and it consists in buying and installing a new, better, detail.
- Wear bearing pumps. To diagnose this problem, it is necessary to dismantle the belt and check the availability of a hollow on the gear of the pulley. If the backlash is, it means that it is necessary to replace the part. Repair bearings are not subject to repair.
- Pump is mounted crooked. This situation is possible if with the previous replacement poorly cleaned the adjacent surface, and it remained small particles of the old gasket and / or pieces of dirt, but if it happened, then most likely you will understand the leaving the leavches after the fill of antifreeze and start the engine. When installing a new pump (or even old, if it is proper), it is necessary to thoroughly clean both surfaces (including planting places under the bolts), both on the pump itself and on the engine housing and install a new gasket. In some cases, instead of laying under the pump lay sealant.
- Problems with roller. It is necessary to perform a revision of the roller. It should have a minimum backlash and smooth work surface. To check, you can use a ruler or other similar width. It makes sense to check the presence in the lubricant in the bearing. With her small quantities should add it. If the roller is poor quality, then it is necessary to replace it. Repair the bearing, and even more so the surface of the roller is almost impossible.
- Damage to hair thread. Two options are possible to correct this situation. The easiest thing is to use the swing with the corresponding diameter to pull the inner thread and / or the dice for pulling the similar thread on the heel. Another option is more work and consists in a complete dismantling of the block in order to restore the specified thread. This method is used if for some reason it is impossible to apply the tape.
Installation washers under the roller
- Bending Roller Studs. Mechanically correct the hairpin is almost unreal. Sometimes (but not in all cases, it depends on the degree of curvature of the hairpins and the place of its curvature) you can try to turn the hairpin and screw it back, but the other side. If the curvature is small, then such a decision can be crowned with success. However, in most cases use adjusting washers. Consider this item separately, since most car enthusiasts consider this method of real panacea if the timing belt is eaten by the engine or from the opposite side.
Use adjusting washers when crashing a belt
Washings can be made independently, for example, from the housing of aluminum beer cans, tin cans from under coffee or use ready-made factory. The main thing is that the washers are the same size as the remote ring, installed between the block and the eccentric of the tensioner roller. There are two options. In the first use factory washers. Thickness and quantity are grateful. The use of this method is ambiguous, since the washers are flat and, accordingly, the plane of the adjacent roller will remain parallel. However, some motorists helped such a method.
1 - If the belt slides to the engine, 2 - if the belt slides from the engine
Another method lies in the independent manufacture of a puck in the form of a crescent. The number and width of the washers are also selected by the experimental way. The use of such washers is more appropriate, because with their help you can change the angle of inclination of the hairpin and the roller so that it forms the normal to form the plane of the cylinder block housing.
The installation of the washer needs to be performed by the scheme shown in the figure. In particular, if the timing belt slides towards the engine, then the puck / washers need to be installed closer to the center of the block. If the belt moves from the engine, then on the contrary, closer to the edge of the block. When installing, the washers are recommended to use, which will hold them from slipping to the side when loaded or without it.
Do not overdo it that the belt does not "go" in the other side, the opposite of the one where he slipped before. The main thing is that the belt worked evenly across the entire width and crashed from the roller.
Installed washers
Finally, I would like to note that in rare cases, the cause of the belt shift in one or the other side and its subsidence can be caused not one, but by several reasons described above. As a rule, the method of using adjusting washers is universal, and can save the situation in even the most "running" cases. However, it makes sense to conduct a belt revision, roller and pump in order to identify shortcomings in their work, and if necessary, replace the listed nodes. It will save you from other problems in the future related to these details.
