Motor oil - how often do you need to change it? Expert advice. Where to replace the oil in the engine, methods of replacement, features to change the engine oil

Mobility will work without requiring oil change.

Clifford Saimak. Ring around the Sun.

Why change it?

Now - a little arithmetic. Suppose instructions for the car prescribes replacing the oil at least every 15,000 km. With an average speed of 50 km / h, it corresponds to 300 hours. If you take this value for a landmark, then at a smaller average speed you can change the oil through the same 300 hours, although the mileage will be less.

Actually, there is a fourth way.Many readers argue that you should navigate the number of burned. Roughly speaking, burned a thousand liters of fuel - get ready to change the oil.

But this method is suitable only for pedants, who have enough patience to collect fuel checks, and then summarize the burned liters.

In addition, such a way it is difficult to compare, for example, a three-cylinder matiz and a full-sized American SUV with the "eight" under the hood. Therefore, when choosing such an algorithm, it is necessary to repel from a certain average for the flow machine with its class to keep their own "accounting".

And last.In some cases, the impetus to the immediate replacement of oil can serve it. Let's say if the frightened drop is hanging on the motor probe, similar to the guestron, or, on the contrary, the oil on the consistency began to resemble water, then once there is no time. It is clear that for the monitoring it will be possible to climb under the hood from time to time, but ... but we believe that this is not the worst habit.

Photo: Depositphotos.com and "Driving"

The engine replacement in the engine must be performed on all vehicles without exception in accordance with the frequency specified by the machine manufacturer. Some car owners do it with their own hands, others use the services of a hundred. The first option is preferable because it makes it possible to significantly save money. However, before performing the appropriate procedure, it is necessary to decide on the answers to the following questions - when to change the engine oil, which refueling is used, which oil is inserted into the engine, how to replace the oil filter, whether to wash the engine, and how to replace the oil with your own hands. We will give all these questions, we will give detailed answers, and also give for you the prices of the relevant consumables and the final cost as of autumn 2017.

When to change engine oil

Presuming the answer to the question of when the engine oil needs to be changed, gives the manufacturer of your car in the manual to the car. On the average, this gap for cars with a gasoline engine, is approximately 10 ... 15 thousand kilometers (Although it comes to 20-30 thousand). Most new machines this procedure is performed on the first one that coincides on the mileage with the specified distance.

As for diesel engines, they have a replacement more often. Approximately every 7 ... 8 thousand. This is due to the fact that diesel fuel (especially those sold on the gas station in the post-Soviet space) is not distinguished by its quality, respectively, because of this, the engine and oil in it are in it are faster.

Change the oil is better at the autumn time to winter in low temperatures, the engine is maximally protected.

Hard operating conditions significantly reduce the engine resource. Oil with it also faster loses its properties.

Heavy operating conditions

What threatens the oil change in the regulations in difficult conditions

If the engine works in severe operating conditions, then the oil in it is wearing much faster. Accordingly, if possible, it is necessary to avoid the situations described below. So, under heavy conditions of operation, the car is meant:

1. Long ride at low speed in the hot season in urban traffic, long downtime in traffic jams. At the same time, the engine cooling system often does not cope with its tasks, so the engine and oil in it overheat. Similar arguments are valid for continuous operation of the engine at idle, especially in the hot period. Therefore, try not to leave the car on the XX for a long time.
2. Engine operation on maximum permissible loads in long mode (for example, transportation or towing heavy loads, riding around the mountain location and so on). At the same time, a similar picture is observed - the engine and oil are experiencing significant temperature loads.
3. Rare trips for small distances, especially in low temperatures. The fact is that in such situations the oil simply does not have time to warm up to fully perform their lubricating and protective functions. And this leads to additional engine wear. In addition, if the car stands for a long time in the garage during the cold season, condensate is formed on the surface of the engine parts. When it is mixed with fuel combustion products, it forms an acidic compound that negatively affects the engine from the inside.
4. Riding in conditions of dusty or very polluted air. This leads to the fact that the air filter is clogged, and less air passes through it than is necessary for the formation of a normal fuel mixture. Accordingly, it becomes enriched. And this is harmful to the engine, and accordingly, the oils poured into it.
5. A similar situation occurs in the event that fuel filter is scored. The difference is only that now the fuel mixture will be depleted. But it is also harmful to the engine.

Therefore, that extend the life of the power unit, as well as the interval between the oil replacement, should not be operated in the conditions described above, and in time to replace the fuel and air filters.

Filling volumes

Many owners are interested in the question - how much oil is needed to replace into the engine of its car. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an unequivocal answer in this case, because each model of the car (and even each engine in case the machines are completed with different motors) requires its amount of lubrication.

Remember that the oil level is measured only on a non-working engine!

However, in average, infographics look like this:

1. Aircraft with engine capacity 1.2 ... 1.8 liters. Oil volume in this case will be from 3.5 to 4 liters. As mentioned above, you will find the exact data in the manual. If there is no reference literature, then experts recommend in this case to pour about 3 liters, and then check the level using the measuring probe. If necessary, add some more quantity. The main thing is that its level does not exceed the MAX mark on the dipstick.
2. As for the machines with the volume of the engine from 2 to 2.4 liters, then the volume of the oil poured will be not more than 4.5 liters.
3. If you have a powerful machine with volume from 3 to 5 liters, then the volume of lubricant will be 5 ... 6.5 liters.

Do not forget to regularly check the oil level in the engine. This procedure must be performed once in one or two weeks, as a last resort once a month. After all, if you miss the moment when the oil level critically falls, then the risk of encounter with and expensive repairs caused by a critical lubricant level.

What oil to fill in the engine

The next important question regarding the replacement is what oil is pouring into the engine. The answer to it also depends only on the manufacturer's recommendations, respectively, you will find accurate information in the manual. The first thing you need to know is that the oil is three types -, and. Each of the listed types has its own characteristics that you can read about the links to the links.

Currently, mineral oils rarely enjoyed. The most common semi-synthetic and fully synthetic compositions. They provide better engine protection, especially with severe operating conditions. There are several classifications of motor oils. However, the most common of them are two - viscosity (SAE) and according to API classification. Most often, the choice is based on viscosity, since this parameter is selected taking into account the climatic regions of the machine operation.

In short, we will focus on deciphering the designations of this standard. It looks like this - xw-y, where x is a low-temperature viscosity indicator, and Y is high-temperature. We give the designations of the first indicator.

As for high-temperature viscosity, the higher its value, the more high temperatures the composition can work. More information about this you can read in the article on our site about the differences of popular, as the most common in our country.

Remember that the choice of oil should always be based on the recommendations of the automaker!

Also when choosing should be considered standard API. Its designation begins with letters S or C. The first are intended for gasoline engines, the second - for diesel. In addition, there are several more nuances:

1. Abbreviation EC.which is immediately after API, denote energy-saving oils.
2. Roman numerals After this abbreviation, they speak about the level of fuel economy.
3. After one of these letters follows level of operational propertiesindicated by letters from A (lowest level) to n and further (the higher the alphabetic order of the second letter in the designation, the higher the class of oil).
4. Universal oil He has the letters of both categories through the oblique line (for example: API SL / CF, currently such oils are becoming more and more).
5. Marking API. For diesel, separated by two-stroke (digit 2 at the end) and 4-stroke (digit 4, respectively).

In accordance with the API standard for gasoline engines (the letter S), the following classes are currently relevant.

As for diesel engines (letter C), then for them relevant classes are:

A few words pro standard ACEA. It contains operational properties, destination and category of engine oil. ACEA classes are also divided into diesel and gasoline. The last edition of the standard provides for the separation of oils into categories and 12 classes:

1. A / B - gasoline and diesel engines of passenger cars, vans, minibuses (A1 / B1 ... 12, A3 / B3 ... 12, A3 / B4 ... 12, A5 / B5 ... 12).
2. C - gasoline and diesel engines with a catalyst of exhaust gases (C1 ... 12, C2 ... 12, C3 ... 12, C4 ... 12).
3. E - Diesel engines of trucks (E4 ... 12, E6 ... 12, E7 ... 12, E9 ... 12).

Even for motor oils are characterized by so-called tolerances. It should be noted that the tolerances indicate car manufacturers, more precisely the engines for them, and not oil manufacturers. The latter only adapt to the first. Exact information about motor oil tolerances that can be used in your car engine can be found in the service book or manual. As an example, we give some of them with a brief decoding.

• VW 500.00 - This is the designation of all-season motor oils with a viscosity of SAE 5W- * and 10W- *, used only in gasoline engines. This is one of the old tolerances VAG. Such oil is permissible to use in automobile engines issued until August 1999. For cars, new tolerances have been developed for more new model range. In essence, the same as ACEA A3-96.
• VW 501.01 - Also one of the "old" VAG tolerances. Indicates motor oils suitable for VW gasoline and diesel engines (models issued no later than August 1999). Specification 501.01 occurs on oils with a viscosity of 10W-40 and 15W-40. The tolerance is close to the 500th, but can give way in terms of fuel economy. Complies with the ACEA A2 class (respectively, such oils can be used in machines for which ACEA A2 is prescribed). Please note that for turbodiesels you also need tolerance 505.00.
• VW 502.00 - Oils exclusively for gasoline engines. The first successor tolerances VW 501.01 and VW 500.00. Remarkable difference - recommended for engine operating in difficult conditions, with elevated loads. However, it is not recommended for cars with irregular and increased replacement intervals. Complies with the requirements of ACEA A3.
• VW 503.00 - So-called Longleif oil (English. Longlife) for gasoline engines, produced from May 1999. A high interval of replacement is allowed - up to 30,000 km or two years of operation (however, it is worth a member of the domestic "features" of operation). The 503.00 specification can be found on labels of oils with a viscosity of 0W-30 and 5W-30. The tolerance is fully superior to the tolerance requirements of 502.00 and meets all the requirements of ACEA A1. Please note that it is prohibited to use such oils in earlier models, since a reduced high temperature viscosity can damage and repair the engine.
• VW 503.01 - Longlife oil (mileage up to 30,000 km or two years of operation), specially designed for high-loaded engines Audi RS4, Audi TT, S3 and AUDI A8 6.0 V12 (models with more than 180 BHP, power, taking into account transmission loss), Passat W8 and Phaeton W12. To date, the admission of VW 504.00 is replaced.
• VW 504.00. - came to replace the tolerances VW 503.00 and VW 503.01. In addition to all the above, Longlife charms, 504.00 is suitable for engines that meet the requirements of EURO 4 emissions (in fact, overlaps all previous gasoline tolerances and can be used in all types of gasoline engines).
• VW 505.00 - tolerance of diesel engine oils (5W-50, 10W-50/60, 15W-40/50, 20W-40/50, 5W-30/40 SAE, 10W-30/40). Applicable for passenger diesel cars (with turbocharged and without it) - models no later than August 1999 release. Meets the requirements of ASEA B3.
• VW 505.01 - Special 5W-40 oils for engines with pump-nozzle, V8 Common Rail systems of turbo code engines. Replacement interval is standard. Corresponds to the class ACEA B4.
• VW 506.00 - Diesel Longlife oils of 0W-30 - service interval up to 50,000 km or two years of operation (naturally, within reasonable limits - see "VW 503.00"). Note that it is not suitable for engines with pump-nozzle. Also remember that it is prohibited to use such oils in earlier models, since a reduced high-temperature viscosity can cause damage and unplanned engine repair.
• VW 506.01 - Longlife oil (30 ... 50 thousand kilometers or two years of operation) for diesel engines with pump nozzle. Complies with ACEA B4.
• VW 507.00 - overlaps all previous tolerances of diesel engine oils. This Longlife oils is almost for any diesel engines, including engines that meet the EURO 4 standard with the SAILE (DPF) filter. Please note that the exception is the V10, R5 engines, as well as engines of trucks and transport buses without a particulate filter. For such engines, oil applies, corresponding to VW 506.01.
• VW 508.00 - This is most likely there will be minorial oils with a larger replacement interval with high energy-saving properties. To date, the VW 508.00 tolerance is only in development.

Replacing the oil filter

Every car owner should know that when replacing oil, the oil filter is always performed and replaced. This requirement is relevant for both gasoline and diesel engines. Otherwise, all the dirt and the nagar, which are in the filter, quickly pollute the new oil, and actually the replacement procedure is reduced to "no".

Special puller are used to unscrewing the filters.

Remember that the mentioned pullers are used only to unscrew the filters. Spin them need only by hand (This is especially true for cars with gasoline engines). Another important point concerns the differences between the filters for gasoline and diesel engines. The fact is that the diesel oil works in more difficult conditions. Accordingly, a large load turns to the filter. If you do not delve into details, then in general words we can say that the filter from the diesel engine can be placed on gasoline, but on the contrary - it is impossible! At the same time, of course, you need to consider the filter models, their landing dimensions, fastening, characteristics, and so on. All this information can be found in the manual. And best to use the filter that recommends the manufacturer Your car.

A more couple of tips relating to the replacement of the oil filter:

1. In the process of replacement, be sure to lubricate the sealing ring with new oil. So you will soften the rubber, reduce the pressure on it, and thus increase the service life of the ring. And as mentioned above, twisted the filter only by hand, Without the use of removals!
2. Some auto mechanics in the replacement process are recommended to pour some oil into the filter. There is a lot of contradictions and opinions on this. Updating details, let's just say that it is necessary to do so if you change the oil in winter and / or the engine of your car is used in the complex (described above) conditions. Otherwise, this recommendation can be neglected.

Wash engine

In some cases, the car owners perform the washing of individual parts of the engine from the sediments of nagar oils available on their surfaces. In particular, the flushing is recommended to do in the following situations:

1. When moving from one brand of oil to another, and as depending on their species (mineral water, synthetic or semi-synthetic) and from their viscosity characteristics.
2. After buying a used carSince you do not know or only aware of the seller's words about the greased liquid brand and replacement frequency. And this means that you cannot be exactly confident in good condition of the engine of the machine.
3. Under severe operating conditions To better wash the remnants of Nagar products.
4. With complete motor bulkhead As a result of overhaul.

1. Manual cleaning on a disassembled engine.
2. A rather popular method of pumping diesel fuel through the engine (so clean the contract engines).
3. Use of washing oil before pouring a new lubricant. This is common mineral oil without additives and is often used when moving from one oil to another.
4. Five-minute flushing. A special means is poured into the old oil in front of the drain, after which his "run" on the system is performed within 5 minutes, then the alien merges. Remember that this washing method is the most aggressive!
5. Flushing with ordinary engine oil (the cheapest). The meaning is to give the engine to the engine about 500 km, merge it and fill it, which is planned to be used on an ongoing basis. Although this washing is soft and does not harm the motor, but the technique itself is expensive and is in many ways meaningless.

Also, washing is recommended to be performed in the case. If you used the old oil significantly longer than the expected period of operation (for example, simply forgot about the regulation). Or in the case when the oil thickened strongly and turned into a jelly-like mass.

How to change oil with your own hands

Usually, car dealers always report to buyers that oil replacement must be carried out in service centers. Otherwise, the branded warranty will be removed. Therefore, in the case of replacing the oil on a new car, the decision on where it is better to perform this procedure completely lies on the car owner. As for the machines that drove over 30 thousand kilometers (after the second, then the driver can change the oil itself. So you will save money. And the procedure itself is not something complicated.

What will take before replacing

Immediately before replacing, you will need not only new oil, but also some other tools. Also take care of where you will perform the procedure. So, for replacement you will need such tools and materials:

1. New oil. Use the grease recommended by the manufacturer. We also think it will be useful for you to familiarize yourself with the video regarding the question of the car.
2. New oil filter. Its brand you will find in the manual to your car. Enjoy original filters or their analogues - the choice of car owner, and depends in many respects from the brand of the machine and the cost of filters.
3. Oil filter puller. Its type depends not only on the design of the engine of your car, but also from how often you are planning to use them. For example, an inexpensive puller is suitable for a private trader. If you work for a service station, it is better to get high-quality universal puller.
4. New Sealing Washer / Ring. Their replacement is made depending on how worn old consumables are. However, it is better to replace them. If the plug plug is damaged, then it is necessary to replace it.
5. Keys for unscrewing drain plug. Its size and form depend on the brand and model of the machine.
6. Capacity for old oil. In this capacity, any vessel of the average volume is suitable (depends on the volume of the engine, but it is better to take with a margin). Also, keep in mind that in the future, the vessel cannot be used under clean fluids, especially foods!
7. Funnel for plum (optional). If the container has a subtle neck, then you will need a funnel.
8. Ribs and gloves. They are necessary to ensure that, firstly, do not blur the hands (including to prevent the appearance of unpleasant skin odor as a result of the procedure), and secondly, remove possible pollution and / or drops of oil, which are located on the surfaces located nearby.

Work must be performed in a specially prepared place. It may be an observation pit, an overpack, a small hilly or a bodie. The main thing is that the car owner has access to oil drain crane, which, as a rule, is located at the bottom of the engine, under the bottom of the car. You can also use the jack to lift the car.

The replacement process on most modern cars is performed according to the same algorithm. The differences consist only in the location of individual parts, such as the drain crane of the oil.

Remember that the replacement must be performed at low oil temperature! Ideally, you need to run a cold engine and give it to work 5 ... 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. This is done so that the oil becomes less viscous.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Prepare place of work. That is, sway to the observation pit, the overpass, raise the car on the jack.
2. Provide security for yourself and car. That is, reliably immobilize it, putting the car to the handbrake and insulating the wheel with anti-tottal stops.
3. Find a drain hole. To do this, see the bottom of the car. As a rule, it is located at the bottom of the engine. Also evaluate and correctly select the desired set of keys to unscrew the plug.
4. With the help of a vet clear surface Near the drain plug, as well as the oil filter.
5. Substitute dishes for draining in the right place.
6. Unscrew the drain plug and oil filter. It is necessary to do it carefully and well, so that the oil does not start to flow by a powerful jet.
7. Wait for a full oil drain, spin the drain plug and install a new filter element (do not forget to lubricate a new sealing gum, if you need to pour oil into the filter).
8. Pour new oil In the filling neck of the engine in the required quantity.
9. Check the level of pouch. It must be approximately about ⅔ closer to the maximum mark.
10. Remove the oils of oil On the working surfaces of the parts with their availability.

As you can see, the procedure is simple, and even a novice car owner can cope with it. The main thing, when working, oversee safety regulations!

Express oil replacement

There are two main ways to replace engine oil:

• traditional (a drain plug is unscrewed);
• express replacement (carried out on service with a special vacuum apparatus).

Most experienced car owners are used to changing the engine oil in the traditional method, climbing under the car and unscrewing the drain plug in the crankcase. However, the design of engines of new machines is designed for express replacement. What is this procedure?

Its algorithm involves the use of a special vacuum apparatus, with the help of which the waste oil is sucked from the engine through an opening of the probe check of its level. The main advantages of express replacement are high speed and replacement efficiency, as well as convenience (the driver does not need to be closed under the car).

In the same way as in the usual way, when express replacement, the engine must be warm up to the operating temperature, and then the hose of the vacuum apparatus to push into the hole of the oil probe is inside as possible so that the end touched the bottom bottom. After that, the oil pumping is performed. It begins to flow into the tank of the pumping unit due to the formation of reduced pressure (permafrost).

Currently, the express replacement is afraid of many car owners, since there is a myth that after performing the procedure in the pallet there remains a lot of old oil. However, it is not! As many tests have shown, it remains there even less than after traditional plum. The only minus of the rapid oil replacement is that the vacuum method does not allow to completely get rid of metal dust and / or burned residues accumulating at the bottom of the pallet in the course of long exploitation. Therefore, the express replacement is not recommended for systematic applications or when the engine washing procedure. However, it saves some time and money, because the cost of express replacement of motor oil is less. And besides, you do not have to change the sealing washer of a drain bolt, as recommended for some cars.

Engine oil replacement cost

Many car owners are interested in the question - how much it will cost the replacement of oil in the service and do it yourself. In this section we will try to answer it, and present the price for consumables and the work of employees of the service station as of autumn 2017.

Let's start with a simpler option - oil replacement in car service. Immediately clarify that the final value will depend on several factors - models of the machine, brand and volume of oil used, prices directly installed by the owners of the service station. We give for you average prices for Moscow and the Moscow region.

Please note that some car services perform oil replacement for free, provided you buy it in place.

Now consider a more complex option - replace oil with your own hands. When calculating the final cost of the procedure in this case, it is also necessary to take into account the model of the machine and the price of the oil used, but also add to them the value of all used consumables. We give for you average prices for autumn 2017:

Consumables and tools	Price, rubles
Motul Specific Dexos2 5W30, Synthetic Motor Oil, Catalog Number of Canisters 5 Liters - 102898	3700
Shell Helix HX8 5W / 30, Synthetic Motor Oil, Catalog Number 4 Liters - 550040542	1500
Oil Lukoil Suite 5W40 SN / CF, Synthetic Motor Oil, Catalog Number of Canisters 4 liters - 207465	1300
Mobil Ultra 10W-40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter canister number - 152197	950
Zic A +, 5W30, semi-synthetic oil, 1 liter canister number - Zic A 5W30	400
Castrol Magnatec SAE 10W 40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter canister number - 156EB4	1200
Filter Oil VAZ 2110-12, Granta, Kalina, 2108 JS Asakashi Art. C0065, Car Mark: Lada, Manufacturer: JS Asakashi	160
Filter Oil Ford Focus II, Bosch Art. 0451103363. Car brand: Ford, Manufacturer: Bosch	300
Oil Renault Logan / Clio / Megane / Laguna filter, car brand: Renault, manufacturer: Knecht	300
Oil filter Hyundai Accent, Kia Cee`d, Rio II Filtron, ART. OE6742, car brand: KIA, manufacturer: Filtron	200
Oil Filter / Filter Assy-Oil Nissan Art. 1520865F0E, car brand: Nissan, manufacturer: Nissan	350
The crash filter puller type "crab", has 3 fingers.	600
Oil filter belt JTC 4736 belt. Type: tape; Capture diameter: 60-260 mm.	1700
Oil filter puller tape capture - 55-100 mm Airline Art. AK-F-02	300
FIT oil filter puller, chain. Article - 64791.	300

In one way or another, the bus owner can use various consumables. This applies to both names and brands and models. Therefore, relying on the above information, you can independently calculate the approximate cost of the procedure.

RESULTS

As you can see, the replacement of oil with your own hands is a simple task, and most, even inexperienced, car owners can cope with it. However, it is necessary to take into account the nuances and follow the above algorithm of action. And do not forget to choose those consumables (oil and filters), which are recommended by the manufacturer of your car.

Read 8 min. Views 279. Published February 15, 2016

Many motorists believe that the oil change in the car engine is simple work that can be made independently. Some believe that it is necessary for this process you need an observation pit to merge the old oil. Other motorists do without observation pit. We will try to dispel the myth that the oil change is a simple job that can be made independently. In fact, it is best to trust this procedure to professionals for a hundred.

At any maintenance station, mechanics will say that the engine oil is not recommended independently, so you can make a mistake and harvest the car engine. Many people might think that so the servicemen hide the desire to work out on others. Is it really so, we will try to figure out.

Inexperienced drivers and ordinary errors when replacing oil in the motor

No matter how surprisingly, inexperienced drivers who are trying to independently change the oil in the car engine, often make gross mistakes that lead to the repair of knots and car units. We give a few examples.

One of the servicemen told such a case. Somehow one car enthusiast came to a budget new foreign car to the maintenance station to check the gearbox. He stated that his transmission began to buzz. After inspection, the servicemen was convinced that the gearbox really badly buzz. As you know, the first cause of the gul of transmission may be a lack of lubricants inside. Mechanics were climbed to check with the help of the probe oil level in the gearbox and were very surprised. It turned out that the gearbox was completely dry. At the same time, the plug on the neck of the drain of oil from the checkpoint was spinning. Immediately questions were asked by the owner of the car, which was done with this machine. The owner of the car was surprised, stated that no repairs in the gearbox were not conducted before. He also stated that recently changed the oil in the car's engine with his own hands.

Wanted mechanics The history of self-replacement forced to check the level of this lubricant in the engine. And then everything fell into place. It turns out the owner of the car instead of the cork cartridge crankcase rejected the gearbox cork. As a result, he drained the oil from the gearbox instead of the engine. After that, the owner of the car strictly flooded into the engine 3 liters of oil on top of those 3 liters, which remained in it. And to look at the diploma, the owner did not even bother. As a result, the error of an inexperienced driver led to the fact that the gearbox worked without oil. In this case, the engine worked with a double volume. It's good that the owner of the car during his service. Transmission oil was filled into the gearbox. In this case, there were no defects in the gearbox. So the CAT managed to save. Just lucky with the car engine. Excessive pressure did not squeeze the glands. Service workers plin all 6 liters in a drain container, after which it was necessary to pour new oil in the amount of 3 liters.

There is a more prosaic case. One mechanic told that his friend also decided to independently replace the engine oil in the car. However, after draining the old oil, he forgot to close the neck of the engine crankcase. Through the upper neck, this motorist poured new oil, spun and did not bother to check the oil level using the probe. As a result, all the oil flowed across the lower neck, and after a few kilometers in the engine appeared a knock.

Wrong methods for replacing engine oil

It happens not only errors when self-replaced oil in the car engine, but also the use of incorrect ways to replace it. So many car enthusiasts and employees of maintenance stations acquire vacuum installations to replace the engine oil. At first glance, it facilitates work, since it is not necessary to have a viewing pit or a lift to merge the engine oil through the neck of the engine crankcase. For this procedure, a vacuum installation is used. It can suck the engine from the engine through the hole for the probe.

It seems to be a comfortable device, however it makes poor quality replacement of engine oil. The fact is that the bottom of the crankcase remains an old oil with a multitude of metal particles and nagar. It is from this dirt that it is necessary to get rid of the replacement, and then it just remains in the engine. After that, the new oil is poured, which is mixed with this mud. In other words, no useful effect from such a replacement of engine oil for the engine and its resource does not occur.

We carry out the correct replacement of oil in the car engine

First of all, there is a simple rule. Replacing the old oil is carried out on a warm engine. This means that this work must be carried out after a small ride time or a small engine warming up. After such engine operation, you need to give it a little cool to reduce the pressure in the system. Drain on the warm engine will be effective, as it will be much albeit, and in time it is faster.

It will be better and faster to merge the old oil from a warm engine.

To unscrew the plug of the neck of the engine crankcase, you may need a TORK key in the form of an asterisk. So some automakers make a plug in the form of an ordinary bolt with a hexagonal tip in the form of an asterisk. Mix old engine oil is best in a cropped canister or a bottle of drinking water. Dispose of old oil is also needed correctly. Do not pour it right on the ground. We have so bad ecology in the country. During oil drain, it is necessary to wait for the old liquid as possible from the Carter. First there will be a thick stream of engine oil, then it will turn into drops. It is best to wait from the Carter to flow as much as possible the old droplets. As usual, then you need to check and do not forget to spin the crankcase of the engine crankcase.

Motor oil replacement interval: myths and reality

One of the main conditions that provide the normal operation of your engine is the right choice and timely replacement of engine oil. This substance is responsible for the resource of the engine and its correct operation. Wrong choice of oil type or its processing can carry a potential threat to the operability of your vehicle.

The oil must be changed in a timely and systematically - it knows every motorist.

- How often? - you ask.

- You need to look at the regulations! - Every motorist will answer.

But in this answer there is a particle of inaccuracies. Have you ever wondered: why exactly such a regulation? Yes, because the automotive manufacturer experienced hundreds of such engines and exposed them to different loads. For the rules, only one indicator is indicated. Therefore, only one generalized statistical indicator takes for its formation. Traditionally, it is 10-15 thousand kilometers.

Will there be the same regulations for replacement of oil in the engine for fans of fast and calm ride, and for urban and country pace? The answer is unequivocal - of course not!

The operation mode significantly affects the state of the engine fluid, and therefore on the regulation of its replacement.

Specificity of car operation

Logical conclusion is that the regulations for "urban" and "intercity" cars are different. We are talking about urban traffic jams when the oil and elements of the engine are exposed to high temperatures, the natural ventilation of the crankcase is minimal and the runs are minimized. In this case, 100 km of the path in traffic and 100 km on the track are two different operational indicators for the engine and different loads.

The difference in operating conditions in traffic jams and when driving on the highway almost three times. Therefore, it is also necessary to take into account the time replacement regulations. Some manufacturers additionally indicate the approximate regulations in the weather.

The most optimal operating conditions of the engine is to ride on the highway at a speed of 110-120 km an hour. In this case, the engine does not overheat, works for a third of its power (for the predominant most engines), and the ventilation of the crankcase is just excellent. However, not all 100% of engines are suitable for such a characteristic.

Lovers rapid driving (also increased engine loads) and those who are forced to stand in traffic jams it is important to remember that under such conditions of operation of the vehicle, the regulation is significantly reduced.

The optimal conditions for the engine oil in the engine: medium high-speed mode and short engine warming (this does not mean that at the first factory of the motor you need to go right away).

If we translate the standard oil replacement regulation of 15 thousand to hours, and compare it with the features of urban and country ride, then the following indicators are obtained:

• For traffic jams and slow urban ride to 25 km / h (which meets very often) - the replacement regulations of 7-10 thousand km.
• For a country ride at a speed of more than 90 km / h, the development resource may increase to 20 or more than a thousand km. However, it is not recommended to "rewrite" the oil in the engine even in conditions of such a measured country ride.

That is why every motorist and the owner of the car must be remembered that the service regulation is just a weighted average indicator that does not include your individual component: the nature of the ride, the mileage of the car, the conditions of operation, the size of the city, and so on.

That is why it is necessary to fully monitor not only behind the level, but also for the condition (color, consistency) of the engine oil. If necessary, you can contact more experienced colleagues for professional summary. 10 or 15 thousand kilometers is not a final sentence to replace, everything is much individual.

It is smoothly as much as the manner and the nature of the ride, the runs and features of the city are, smoothly so and affects the right choice of engine oil. Natural, synthetic and semi-synthetic - they all have their own features of operation and advantages. When choosing, you can be guided by the recommendations of the manufacturer, advice of professionals or personal experience. The choice must be conscious and fit the method of operation of your vehicle. Remember that the choice of oil is the key to the engine performance, its resource and technical and performance indicators.

Regular replacement of oil - the procedure is necessary, it is recommended to conduct it at least 2 times a year. Many motorists make a replacement in the fall, because in the cold the car is susceptible to large loads. If your car often "dust" without a case, you drive in "off-road", in severe frosts or with high humidity, often use the trailer or transport loads, then the load on the motor increases, and therefore the oil is thickened and oxidized faster, change it Need more periodicity.

When do I need to replace the oil in the engine?

Replacement time varies depending on oil type:

• mineral oils change every 6000-7000 km. mileage,
• semi-synthetic - 9-12 thousand km,
• synthetic mixtures withstand up to 15 thousand km.

Not the last role plays and engine's type:

• on the diesel, the oil changes more often (every 7-9 thousand km),
• on gasoline aggregates - less often (approximately every 12-15 thousand km).

Concerning Boxes of gear , The replacement interval is: automatic - 50-70 thousand km, mechanics - 60-90 thousand km

How to change the engine oil?

• Warm the engine, we are waiting for 5-7 minutes so that the oil in it is cooled, and drain the residues into the container. To do this, on the engine crankcase, we unscrew the plug and immediately substitute the oil container. On the floor under the tank put a rag or newspaper;
• The drain process itself will take no more than 5 minutes, 2-3% of the oil will remain on the engine walls - it is not scary, but if you plan to change the manufacturer, you will have to wash the engine;
• Look, whether there are no extraneous impurities in oil - if there is a rust, precipitate and so on - you need to wash the engine, then you can pour new oil. Pay attention to the color: Light oil is suitable for use, brown liquid, similar to the color of the Coca-Cola requires urgent replacement;
• Feeding the oil into the engine, control the level using the dipstick: first fill 80% of the volume, and then tap, in turning with the tops on the dipstick. Remember that it is not allowed to be wondering the rapid wear of working details, and when overflow it will begin to foam (due to the work of the crankshaft), and will also disrupt the work of the driving parts;
• The oil filter is defined, because if it is clogged, the oil is passed by him. According to statistics, after 10 thousand km run, the filter is scored, the crude oil goes directly, and the engine will wear faster. It is advisable to immediately add oil into the filter and lubricate (and it is better to replace) a sealing gum;

• Take only high-quality oil from proven manufacturers, it must correspond to the type of engine and the fuel system of the car;
• Vacuum oil change - the thing is fast and affordable, but such "express drain" should not be constant, since the engine remains more old oil than with a manual drain system;
• Do not be lazy to make the replacement of oil, even the highest quality filters will not be able to delay all impurities and particles of dirt and dust, in the end the engine will suffer - and it will be changed to change it!;
• Do not experiment with additives and additives - most often their action is short, but they can enter the chemical reaction with the main oil, then you will have to go through the entire fuel system;
• Check when replacing and running part - on a hundred still car raise on the lift, but you will be confident in the full safety of your vehicle.

Over time, any motor will consume more oil, and the replacement will have to be produced more often. After 80-100 km, check the oil level and tighten the need. Many modern models are equipped with sensors that prompted that the composition is time to change - these systems calculate the time from the nature of driving and running.

Today we will replace the oil in the car engine yourself. Let's not go go for which it is necessary. You need it all here. Every ten thousand kilometers it is necessary to change the oil in the engine. Question in the other: Do I need to change it in the service if this procedure can be done easily in garage or street conditions? For myself, I answered this question. Definitely: I change the oil in the engine itself.

The reasons for which I myself am changing the oil

• The first reason: This is a significant saving time, in the service you need to go there and back, there may be a queue, the car must be passed, get, sometimes it is inconvenient to go on a dirty car, so you need to first call for the sink, and this is even additional costs and lost time. Despite the fact that the work of the work itself will be likely to quickly, than I, according to my estimates, the replacement in oil will take from one and a half to two hours. I went to all forty minutes.
• The second reason: The cost of replacing the oil is saving money. The cost of replacing the oil in the service is currently 800 - 1000 rubles. It is not necessary to pay for yourself, the total benefit of 800 rubles, at a minimum.

Step by step algorithm

And so start replacing the oil in the engine. From the time of the previous oil replacement, our car drove ten thousand kilometers. By this time it is necessary to buy consumables: Motor oil - a conventional plastic canister with a capacity of four liters and the oil filter itself.

Stage first - preparatory

I drive a car from the garage, heating the engine, for this we give a car at idle for about ten minutes. It is necessary so that the oil is heated and easily leaked out of the engine. Cold oil will be more viscous, flowing will slowly, many old oil will remain on the walls of the engine crankcase. While the machine is heated, we build a flight from two pieces of a wooden bar of 150x150x400 and two 50x150x1200 boards, as shown in the photo.

We are driving slowly and gently on the boards on the top of our overpass.

Stage Second - Drain of Old Exhaust Oil

While we built an overpass, drove on it, the engine warmed up. Wild Engine. To start work, you need to take a bucket for spent oil, a set of keys, a new oil filter, special. I bought such a nozzle for myself.

If not, it does not matter. I used to twist and twisted the oil filters without it with the help of over-in passage.
We climb under the car, twist the four bolts that are fixing the protection of the crankcase. Then carefully unscrew the oil bolt.

As soon as we unscrew this bolt, the oil is poured out of the engine, hold the bucket to work near the engine and substitute it under the jet of oil.

After that, unscrew the old filter, for this we collect a special key.

When unscrewed the filter, there will also be a little oil from there - be careful.

Stage Third - Bay of New Oil

Now that we all disassembled, the oil was merged, it is necessary to restore the operability of the car. To do this, take a new oil filter, remove protective films, seals, etc. The gasket on the place of fastening the filter is lubricated by the spent oil.

I doubt the feasibility of lubrication procedures with old butter, but all the car mechanics did, when I have changed the oil in the service yet. I do it as well, just in case you need it so. Next, tighten the oil bolt to the place.

Hound the new oil filter to your laid place.

Now I install Carter's protection in place. After that, we finally get out of the car. We remove from under the engine all that could stay there: a bucket with workout, keys, old filter, rug, etc.
Finally, you can work in full growth: we open the hood of the car, we find the oil cover, unscrew it.

From the old oil canister, cut out a special funnel, which will help us carefully, without shedding oil by the oil-free hole, pour oil inside the engine.

Now we take a new oil, unscrew the lid, tearing the seals, and pour the required amount of oil into the engine. If your engine is less than 1.8 - 2.0 liters, then most likely you do not need to pour the entire canister. Pouring oil, it is necessary to check the oil level in the engine with a special probe. Oil must be pouring just below the maximum level.

Do not pour no longer, it's not good to the engine.

Conclusion

Well, actually all. We twist the oil lid, close the hood, come and the overpass, disassemble all temporary structures: the car is ready for operation. Do I need flushing oil? If you do not change the brand of poured oil, then it is not necessary. If you change, it is better to wash the oil with flushing oil. To do this, after draining the oil, without removing the old filter, you need to pour wash oil, give the engine to work on this oil at idle for about ten minutes, merge it. Next, everything as I described above.
Even for the maternity owners there is a bonus in the form of spent oil. I never throw it out and do not pull out. Everything is useful in the farm. I use exhaust oil if somewhere you need to lubricate - loops, keys, bicycle chain, etc. Even with the help of working out a good bonfire, when in the spring ZhGU trash on the plot.