Hello everyone! In this article, consider an interesting topic, how to remove rust and bugs from the car body.
It is the most common and common problem with which motorists have to deal with the car maintenance. Damage to the corrosion body is very difficult to stop. To do this, it is necessary to make a timely a number of protective measures to ensure the safety of the body, which further eliminate damage.
The most common cause of body damage is the small rubble, which carries out from under the wheels of counter-or passing vehicles, as well as chemical reagents that are used in order to reduce the icing of the carriageway and sidewalks.
Motorists often ask the question: "How to remove rust from the car body?" I will try to briefly answer this question.
The process of removing corrosion from the body of the car consists of several stages:
- car washing, with removal of dirt and dust on the car body;
- drying body;
- body studies for the presence of areas of damaged rust, chipping and cracks of paint with a mandatory inspection of the arches of the wheels, thresholds, the bottom of the car and a thorough sex survey inside the car;
- places damaged by bugs must be highlighted using adhesive tape;
- body preparation for rust removal work;
- work on the removal of corrosion;
- additional processing of stripped areas from rust;
- applying putty with eye treatment before creating a smooth surface;
- coloring prepared sections.
Car wash
The process of car wash is carried out manually or using means of mechanization using special sprayers. The car wash must be carried out outside and inside the body, as well as motor and luggage compartments with simultaneous inspection of metal surfaces.
To increase the efficiency of the sink process, it is necessary to use auto-pumps that provide a thorough, gentle cleaning of the body, prepare the body for carrying out the necessary work. The auto-shampoo easily flushes dirt, salt and fats. Returns the surface natural shine, protects the paintwork. The tool does not contain wax, does not remove the polyroli, does not leave stains and strips. The composition of the auto-mapping does not contain phenols, formaldehyde preservatives and other toxic components.
For manual washing, there was the most common distribution: shine premium, luxury premium, car-wash, biolus.
When applying automatic washing at stations, the Koch Chemie series is widely used.
Car body drying
The drying of the car body can be carried out in vivo or with the help of fan heaters. After washing, the car should wipe well, removing all drops of water, which in the drying process under the rays of the Sun can lead to the formation of spots on the body surface.
Inspection of the body, the selection of areas with a damaged surface requires immediate installation of protective covers to prevent chemical preparations and paints during painting work.
Conducting rust removal
With long-term operation of the car, especially with a humid climate (and not only), damage "bugs" is formed on the body. How to remove "bugs" from the car body?
For metal processing, two main methods use two main methods for the purpose of removing rust:
- mechanical;
- chemical.
The type of repair associated with the cleaning of bugs with the car with your own hands is usually carried out in a personal garage using a set of tools for car service.
Mechanical method
How to remove bugs on the body? For this place, damaged rust, usually, is treated with an eyebrow or metal brush. The cleaning of the damaged place in the initial stage is carried out by a coarse-grained skin, with the transition in the future processing process on fine-grained skirt.
Skin treatment can be carried out by "dry" or "wet" way. With the "wet" method, the metal surface is moistened with kerosene or white alcohol.
Video: How to remove the bug (a small rusty spot) on the roof of the car.
Applying a metal brush for cleaning, care must be taken, since the metal is subject to corrosion, it is easy to destroy.
Rust can be removed from the car body and with a grinding machine. For this, a typical slift is suitable, with which the rust layer is removed and the place of damage is finished to obtain a smooth surface without traces of rust, fine-grained grinding skurt.
A very good result gives the use of a sandblasting machine to clean, which combines high efficiency and prevent body damage. The removal of rust with a sandblasting machine is carried out by cleaning the metal of a jet of air with sand particles. Such a method allows to carry out high-quality cleaning of bug damage.
Video: Sandblasting pistol.
Video: What tool can remove corrosion on the car.
It should be noted that when using cleaning mechanisms, protective glasses and gloves must be used, observing safety standards.
Chemical method
With a chemical method of removing corrosion from the car body, various rust converter reagents are used. They are able to prevent the spread of corrosion in the place of damage. Companies producing autocossetics offer a wide range of various means.
1. Among the motorists, the composition of the "Rust Rust-1" neutralizer was widely known, after processing which the rust is converted into a gray substance that is easily removed by the rag.
2. The most commonly used means for removing rust from the body of a car - orthophosphoric acid, which is part of many rust conversion preparations.
3. Recently, motorists use a zinc spray that forms a protective film from zinc particles on a damaged place, thereby preventing metal revival.
In retail stores, a special zincor-car kit consisting of a solution for degreasing and removing rust, as well as a solution for the formation of a metal coating with a protective film of zinc particles.
When using a set, the place of rust damage is processed, and then with the help of electrodes it is connected to the battery and zinc particles are formed on the surface of the metal. In the process of electrochemical reaction, the zinc particle is covered with a metal, forming a protective film.
Video: Removal of rust and metal by electroplating with a set of zincor-car.
Additional treatment
After stripping from the rust of the body, the degreasing surface is applied to the place of damage and after drying another layer of anti-corrosion soil, but this is if the metal is clean. And if it happened that after cleaning the metal remained covered with the factory soil, then the need for primer disappears.
Primers are used to protect the metal surface and ensure the best adhesiveness of the applied substances. Primers produce three types:
- primer or soil equalizer;
- sealant.
Putty and painting body
A spacure layer is applied to the treated surface, which is processed using moisture resistant, aligns to a flat surface. The putty can be applied in several layers, and each time is aligned with sandpaper until it gives to her smooth surface. And the last step before is the application of the primer.
The fight against corrosion cars often delivers a lot of problems to its owner. For this purpose, three main methods are used - passive, active and electrochemical, but each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. Most often with the help of special means. And in order to prevent the bottom, body thresholds and other hidden places glue a protective film or treated with mastic. There are also other preventive funds that we will talk about with you next.
Causes of corrosion
To begin with, we will understand why corrosion processes arise. The fact is that corrosion of metal surfaces is four types - electrochemical, chemical, hydrogen and oxygen. In the context of rusting the automotive housing, only the first two types are there.
Electrochemical corrosion arises due to the fact that two material with different reducing properties interact through the electrolyte (any intratolved water is such). Since iron has low reducing properties, it is significantly affected by rust. Chemical corrosion occurs due to the interaction of the metal surface and the corrosion-active medium. In the role of the latter can perform oxygen at high temperatures. Understanding the essence of the emerging processes gives us the ground to find methods for combating corrosion.
Types of combating corrosion
There are two main ways to protect the body of a corrosion machine. The first is the barrier protection. It does not allow the physical interaction of the surface of vulnerable metals with an external environment. This is expressed in the use of paint and varnish and various mechanical means and protection. The second is the protector protection. It is an example of galvanized, because zinc has a more negative potential than iron. Accordingly, if you connect them, then in such a pair of iron will be restored, and zinc corroded. However, since there is an oxide film on the surface of the zinc, then this process occurs very slowly.
As mentioned earlier, there are three main types of corrosion control by car:
- Passive.
- Active.
- Electrochemical.
Passive method of struggle Ensures the use of paint coating of the case. The task of the car owner in this case is to maintain the integrity of the LCP. It is impossible to allow the appearance of small chips or scratches on its surface. This method should be attributed to the periodic car wash, as well as the use of additional protective equipment - wax, and so on.
Under active method of struggle With corrosion, the car implies the use of special anti-corrosion materials and mastic. They differ depending on which parts of the body are used. For example, the bottom of the car is often treated with anti-growing coating. As a rule, these compositions are based on the fine-dispersed aluminum powder. There are also special anti-corrosion products for the arches of the wheels. The so-called liquid locker (durable elastic material) is used for this. A separate class is anticorrosive materials for hidden cavities. They are designed to handle thresholds, racks, spars, floor amplifiers and other surfaces.
Electrochemical method of struggle With a metal corrosion on the car body lies in the use of a special electronic device, which has an electrode in its composition designed to take corrosion on itself. Simply put, it will not rust the machine of the machine, but the mentioned electrode. This method is very effective, but its significant disadvantage is a high price.
How to remove corrosion with cars
We now turn directly to the methods and means of combating corrosion on the car with your own hands. First of all, it is necessary to mechanically remove rust from the surface. And do it very carefully! For these purposes, sandpaper, various abrasive circles on a drill or a grinder, as well as sandblasting are used. It is the last tool that most effectively purifies the affected surface.
When working with sandblast, use personal protective equipment - respirator, glasses, headdress, gloves. And it is better to produce work or in a separate room with forced ventilation, or on the street to remove from surfaces with LCP and glasses.
Work sandblasting
Also, special compositions are used to remove corrosion. The easiest in this case is the use of a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, followed by its removal.
but the most reliable method of combating corrosion It is to use converters or rust modifiers. They convert iron oxide into iron tannat. As a rule, they consume polymers acting in the role of primer.
Rust converters for the vehicle turn corrosion in the phosphate layer and chromates of iron and zinc. Also, they are also sometimes used for processing not subjected to metal corrosion before applying the soil to prevent corrosion in the future, and improve the degree of LCP clutch with the metal surface.
The best prophylactic means to combat car corrosion is its anti-corrosion treatment for a hundred. It must be periodically updated every 2-3 years.
Independent struggle against car corrosion has such a sequence:
Remember that all work needs to be carried out carefully, since even a small stain of rust is able to grow significantly with time.
Viden rusty seam
Always check the condition of the welds On the body of the machine. Remember that they are the most vulnerable to corrosion. In particular, its intercrystalline species, which is particularly dangerous. The consequence of its appearance becomes an imperceptible loss of plasticity and metal strength. Thus, the boundaries of welded grains are destroyed randomly, and the area of \u200b\u200bstructural transformations turn into an anode that is strongly dissolved. Moreover, such a phenomenon can be observed not only on iron corners, but also in stainless steel, aluminum, chromonicel and chromium alloys. Corrosion in this case threatens the painting of individual metal grains, because of which the seams and the case are generally gradually lose their mechanical properties.
The most affected areas of the car body are the lower parts of the door panels, thresholds, front wings, box cross sections of the bottom of the body, the inner surface of the wheeled arches. Due to the fact that access to the listed places is difficult, there is always a risk of not to notice the appearance of rusting foci. Check their condition on the observation pit or on the lift!
Popular Rust Removal Remedies
Currently, there are dozens of different rust converters in auto shops, and their range can be different in different regions of the country. Therefore, to make recommendations on the purchase of a particular means does not make sense. But we still give as an example several names of popular compounds that are common among car owners. So:
Popular tool "Zincar"
- "Movil";
- rust converter line Hi-Gear;
- "Kolchuga";
- Sonax;
- "SF-1";
- Runway;
- Permatex;
- Bitumast;
- "Phosphomet".
It must be remembered that with the help of any converter you can fight rust, the layer of which does not exceed 0.1 mm. In addition, the active components are struggling only with a rust-in. Its loose component is better removed mechanically (using sandpaper, knife, metal brush, sandblasting and so on).
When working with converters, follow the safety instructions. It is advisable to work in rubber gloves and prevent fluid from entering outdoor skin.
The choice of one or another should be based on the assortment, its composition, price. Fortunately, they are inexpensive, so if the purchased tool is ineffective, you can always buy another.
Body galvanizing
Use "Zincor-Auto"
Galvanized at home
An excellent option for passive protection of the body from the harmful effects of corrosion is its galvanized at home. To do this, you can buy a "zincor-car" or similar to it. Currently, many manufacturers produce such products.
Beware of fakes! Due to the successful use of this fund, many unscrupulous manufacturers began to produce falsification. Buy the product only in certified and proven stores.
"Zincor-Auto" is a means of covering a layer of zinc small on the area of \u200b\u200bdamage to the LCP, which led to the appearance of rust on the housing. The principle of operation is based on the galvanic effect, due to which the zinc particles cover the affected area of \u200b\u200bthe metal case. The kit includes working electrodes, connecting wires, as well as two bottles with different compositions - the rust converter and directly with zinc. The algorithm for using the device is as follows:
Tool for galvanizing "zincor-car"
- With the help of a stationery knife or other remedies, it is necessary to carefully remove rust from the surface. Moreover, not only in places where it can be seen, but also under the paint, since in the future it can spread further in the area.
- Put the car on the handbrake and run the engine. Next, the connecting wire included in the instrument is connected to the plus terminal of the battery. An operation is allowed on an impetuizable engine, but still it is better to do this with a motor-headed, since in this mode the current value will be higher.
- The second end of the wire must be connected to a red electrode. Check that the machine housing is grounded. From this directly depends on the presence of a galvanic effect.
- At the end of the electrode, there is an absorbent sponge that needs to be dipped into a bottle No. 1 (solution to remove rust), and then thoroughly rub the composition according to the affected rust surface. Conduct the procedure until the rust is completely removed.
- After removing rust with water, wash off the residues of the solution from the surface.
- Next, you need to disconnect the red electrode and connect gray.
- Take a bottle number 2 (zinc solution), dip in it the sponge of the second electrode and repeat the procedure for applying the solution.
- Conduct this process until you see the sufficient layer of zinc on the metal surface.
As practice shows, the layer is kept on the surface of the case for years, not allowing to appear and spread rust. Therefore, the use of the "zincor-car" tool and the like is the effective method of eliminating the rust that appeared on the chips and other LCP damage.
Summary
The main thing that should remember every car owner when it comes to rusting the body of the car, so it is that the risk of corrosion is always. Accordingly, it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the body of the body, as well as carry out preventive measures to prevent corrosion. The best solution in this vein will be the conduct of an anti-corrosion treatment of the body per service station.
In case you have found the center of corrosion and want to get rid of it, then use for this with special converters that can be bought in any automotive department in the car sectorate department. The main thing, in case of detection, do not tighten the execution of the procedure, and make it as quickly as possible. It is necessary to do it carefully, so as not to leave the location of the slope of the slightest area with rust.
Each car owner faced or encounter with such an unpleasant moment as the appearance of rust on the car body. This is a very common problem, which we will tell in this article, as well as give good consistent tips to remove corrosion from metal parts of the car. Note that to stop the spread of corrosion over the surface of the car body is a time-consuming process, it will be easier to protect yourself in advance from its appearance and quickly eliminate possible foci. Also, in this article will provide detailed videos with a complete process of combating corrosion.
The most frequent causes of the appearance of rust are minor damage to the paintwork, not timely eliminated. These may be small chips from rubble or gravel, or scratching varying degrees of damage. It is in such damage that moisture falls, dirt and various aggressive chemical elements used in winter on the roads. What creates a favorable medium for metal oxidation and the spread of the defeat even under the paint.
Stages of combating corrosion on the car body
Careful car wash to remove all contamination from surface treated;
Rug and drying damaged elements;
Attentive inspection and search for all damage to paintwork and finding corrosion foci throughout the car body. When finding damage, they must be allocated in any way to not forget about them;
Preparation of damaged parts to the removal of rust and damage;
The work to remove corrosion themselves;
Special processing of purified sections for additional protection;
Carrying out putty and primer work for the subsequent painting of the car;
The final stage is painting and polishing the car.
Car wash
Car washing is a responsible moment when combating paintocking and eliminating corrosion of metal parts of the car body. On the perfectly clean surface it is easy to notice all scratches, chips and cracks. And it is easy to determine the root of rust spread itself.
To facilitate the process and increase the quality of the sink, specialized car shampoos must be applied. They easily cope with most contaminants and derive them from deep scratches. The car washing itself can be done manually or using home automotive mini-tempered with high pressure. The end result is no different - this is a matter of habit and the availability of the necessary equipment.
Drying machine after washing
After the car is thoroughly washed, and the surface will fall as clean water in large quantities. The entire body surface must be removed from extra drops of water and dried from residual moisture.
After that, you can move to the stage of searching for all sorts of damage to the paintwork or metal base of the part. At the same time, immediately to detect the damaged area, it must be allocated to not be missed when carrying out work. Also, all the places that will not be processed, it is worth sealing with a painted tape or a film that would not damage them in the process of all works.
How to remove corrosion yourself
To deliver a favorite car from corrosion manifestation, you can apply two fundamentally different ways to combat rust. For this purpose, a mechanical or chemical method is applied. Also, in some cases, you can combine these two ways. Therefore. Let us turn to a detailed description of these methods.Mechanical method of combating rust
With a mechanical stripping of damaged metal, a different manual or electrical tool is used. There are also pneumatic analogs of electrical instruments.For the removal of the first layer of rust, sandpaper of a large fraction is usually applied, or special solid slide circles on the grinding machine. Please note that it is not worth applying the "Bulgarian" for this type of work, due to the high revolutions you can damage the body part and make it impossible to restore further restoration. You can also apply special attachments on a drill or other tool with rigid metal brushes, it will also get rid of corrosion plates.
The most effective way to mechanically combat corrosion is the use of a sandblasting gun. Which is also used to remove the layer of paint coating and stripping metal parts to the pristine species. This method allows you to quickly and without much the cost of effort, turn any metal into a beautiful brilliant item. The principle of the method is that the sand is served on the metal using air or water under greater pressure. This sand jet effectively removes any raids on the metal itself, while not capable of damaging it.
It is worth remembering the safety technique when working with any tool. It is always worth using special protective glasses and a respirator. The resulting metal chips into the human eye can cause serious damage, and ignoring the already falling can lead to impairment of vision or eye loss. Therefore, when metal particles hit the mucous membrane of the eye, it is worth it to immediately remove it independently or contact the hospital for qualified help.
Chemical Rust Removal Methods
The use of chemicals to remove rust can significantly save strength and time spent on the entire procedure. But in particularly complex cases, they can not give a complete effect. For example, many rust removal tools are designed for a layer of not more than 1 mm, or in particularly deep scratches, the reaction may not be completely.Today, many companies manufactures automobile chemistry also produce various means for converting rust based on different active ingredients. Also, there are different means to protect the purified metal based on the process of galvanizing the details.
Today, one of the most popular and inexpensive means for cleaning the body of a car from corrosion is the "Rust Rust Neutralizer". After applying this substance, a gray substance layer is formed on the surface of the part, which is easily removed. Interestingly, this fluid is not a rust converter - this is a strong neutralizer, which completely dissolves all the manifestations of corrosion. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, further surface processing is not required and you can immediately begin painting.
But it is worth noting, the composition of this substance is not disclosed, but it can be assumed that the liquid is based on a mixture of various aggressive acids. Which dissolve iron oxide (rust). The composition may include sulfur, hydrochloric, orthophosphoric and other acids. Therefore, it is worth using liquid with great care and use personal protective equipment.
Orthophosphoric acid is the most classic way to convert rust. This acid is part of most means for converting rust. When reacting with iron oxide, the acid removes rust, and the result of interaction becomes a thin grayish film, which has good properties of metal protection from further corrosion.
Another way to combat rust is the most popular sets for removal and "galvanizing" of the treated surface. In automotive stores, you can now purchase a set of type "zincor-car" or other names with the same principle of action.
This kit includes a set of two liquids to remove rust and subsequent protection of the body of the car. Also, in the box there are two special electrodes with an absorbent part and a long wire for connecting to a car battery.
The whole principle is based on electrochemical processes and according to manufacturers, form a galvanized layer on the treated surface. For a detailed study of the method, you can see the presented video in which all the actions and the result of processing are shown.
Additional work
Do not forget that the metal item not only needs to be cleared of rust, but also to protect it from further education during operation. Before painting or putty, it is necessary to treat the surface with a special anti-corrosion or epoxy primer. It will save metal from interaction with the atmosphere and moisture.Then there is the process of putty and painting the car, which will lead it to the final form. The following will be described all the stages of preparatory and paintwork.
Carbuilding and Painting Car Body
This section of the article will propose several videos, describing in detail all the stages of painting work. Attentively reviewing them, every car owner will be able to perform this work at a satisfactory level.After cleaning the part, you should apply one or more layers of putty to align the surface or imparting the correct form. The putty is applied in several thin layers, each time creating a more correct geometric shape of the body part. At the same time, after applying and drying out the putty itself, the final form is communicated using emery paper of different fractions.
It is worth considering this stage with all seriousness and attention. It will be the future basis for the paint-layer, which is capable of showing even the smallest scratches. Therefore, the spacure surface should be grinding with a constant decrease in fractions on sandpaper, up to "zero".
Then, the surface of the repaired part is covered with a layer of primer and after drying, the car is painted in a pre-selected body color. At the same time, it is necessary to carefully monitor the applied paint layer, as the resulting sublifting, in the future will spoil the appearance of the car. On the surface of the car, the paint is placed at least three layers with a slight break between each.
Depending on the type of paint, it may be necessary to apply a layer of varnish and subsequent polishing after drying the entire body of the car.
Output
Rust on the surface of the car body is a serious problem that can lead to further replacement of the entire part, if you ignore the appearing corrosion spots. But it is worth spending a little of its time, and all the concerns about the complete "roting" of the body's body elements will remain in the past.Each car owner faces corrosion, many of them concerns the removal of rust from the car body. There are several ways to combat this problem. All of them have different efficiency. Naturally, it is best to contact a specialized service. However, if it is impossible, it can be guided by a rust war on its own. So, let's look at how to eliminate corrosion in different ways.
Rust: species, reasons
Such is called one of the types of corrosion. To be more accurate, then this is the product of the chemical process. In fact, it is iron oxide, which appears as a result of the destruction of the metal structure. Corrosion is wet and dry.
The latter and at all occurs without any moisture. Steel and iron can simply fill up. If there is also moisture on such an affected area, then wet corrosion will be launched. It will still be intense to hit body parts. That is why the removal of rust from the car body must be performed as quickly as possible, quickly. There are several situations in which car owners are incorrect, which leads to sad consequences.
Temperature differences
Everyone came across the situation when after the trip in the evening the cold car, which stood on the street, drive into the heated garage or boxing. And well, if in the room where the car will be stored, there is a good ventilation system.
If it is not, then condensate will be formed on the surface of the body. This will increase air humidity, which is the cause of intense corrosion.
Snow on the bottom of cars
This is one of the situations where errors or ignorance lead to unpleasant consequences. So, if the driver does not clean the bottom of the machine from the snow layer, then the corrosion will not wait long. With frequent winter ride, you need to constantly remove snow and clean the bottom. Otherwise the motorist is waiting for the removal of rust from the car body.
Regular sinks in summer
During this period, it is important to wash the car often so that the dirt does not provide its destructive action.
After rains, it is necessary to carefully dry the body, but some close the car after washing immediately into the garage. It is not right.
The most common corrosion damage
So, the rust may be different, and depending on where the affected area is located, it is divided into specific species. Below we will look at each of them.
Cosmetic
It arises where various linings are installed from other non-metallic materials. Often, rust foci occur under the headlights, lanterns, radiator lattices, under moldings. If chemical processes are removed immediately using the car from the body, then there is no danger. But if you run it, then corrosion will go to the next level.
Jumpy
This type of corrosion is formed not on the surfaces of metal parts, but under the paint coating. Such a rust looks like small foci. The main lack of such corrosion is not always possible to see obvious foci.
Occasionally occurs in paint. Another serious minus is not just growing such a rust and then diverges throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe element, but also quite deeply affects the metal. Often in advanced cases, even high-quality rust removal from the car body can be a useless process.
Anyway, throughout the time it will manifest a pass-through hole. Only welding works will help here.
Through corrosion
This is the last of the stages. It is because of it in the body there are huge sizes of the hole. But faster through only point rusting. These are small small points. They grow not on the surface, but deep into.
Foci Removal Tool
Now, when almost everything is known about corrosion, you should find out which ways to remove rust from the car body. But first it is necessary to talk about the toolkit, which will come in handy in the works. Work with metal requires certain tools and consumables. In this case, the acquisition of professional equipment of auto chemicals can be justified. Also need a grinding machine.
You still need to purchase a sandblasting machine. If it is impossible, then you will have to be content with metal brushes and emery paper. Of the consumables, there will be any fluid for degreasing, liquid to remove rust with a wrathole body,
Methods of conducting war with rust
In order to fight corrosion, you need to find its foci of occurrence. She can hide in fairly unexpected and, most importantly, complex places. Experts recommend thoroughly wash and dry the car, and only after that seek foci. From how long the body is running, it is necessary to repel in the selection of a suitable way.
Sandblasting
It takes place very effectively due to the fact that even small and small pores are captured during the process. In this case, the integrity of the metal around the hearth is not violated. If you use the device that has a function of reverse circulation, then you do not have to make sand collection. But not always such a device can be rented. Buying equipment by virtue of its high costs can be unjustified. In general, sandblasting perfectly works and cleans the most hard-to-reach places on the body and bottom.
Grinding
For this method, the presence of a special apparatus. The process is quite fast. Metal will be cleaned literally to shine. But there is a disadvantage - together with corrosion, a layer of normal metal will be removed, which is depleted as a result of corrosion processes.
Grinding manually
The essence of this method is the same as in the case of a machine. The difference here is that everyone will have to do on their own. The work will use a metal brush, various graininess. The only advantage that this removal of rust has a car body is the price. Everything you need can be inexpensive in any economic store.
Also, manual grinding can also be cleared the places in which the machine is simply not to get. As practice shows, the cost of all works ranges from 1 to 3 thousand rubles.
Chemical method
Rust foci must be treated with special aerosols. The zinc converter is also applied to them. Further, all these compositions are washed off by ordinary water, and clean places are dry and processed by anti-corrosion facilities. There is a primer-converter on sale. But minus is that after applying liquids it is impossible to paint the affected place. The paint simply will not hold. As a result of the interaction of the converter with rust, a kind of special structure is formed, which behaves like a primer.
Electrochemical Rust Removal from Car Body
This method provides for redox reactions at damaged areas. The process passes in the electrolytic solution under the influence of current. It sounds difficult, but it is only at first glance. In fact, this is the easiest method. There are already ready-made sets - if you carefully read the instruction, everyone can understand the process. Among the advantages of this method is a complete removal of corrosion foci on the affected surface. Application zinc, safety for LCP car, fast result, simplicity. The disadvantage can be considered that this technology is not effective for working with large areas and through corrosion. Additional means must be applied here.
Corrosion Fighting: Main Stages
Consider how the removal of rust is performed from the car body (stages of work). To perform a mechanical struggle, it will be necessary to thoroughly wash the car. Then, with the help of a grinding machine or sandpaper, the rusted element is purified to metal. Next, the surface purified in this way is carefully degreased, and then processed by the converter. Finally, the place is covered with enamels in the case of small damage or putty and paint, if it is large damage. To work with an electrochemical way, you must purchase a set. It is designed to handle 1 sq.m.
Summary
As you can see, you can fight rust, and it is quite effective. The main thing is to choose the appropriate way.
Redhead attack by name Rust annivers many motorists. The worse the car body is protected from corrosion exposure at the factory (galvanized), the more often the owners will have to make efforts to eliminate red spots. Moreover, it is undesirable to slow down with liquidation, since with the time of metal damage only increase. As a result, six months will have to spend much more time and money than today. So, what will be needed to remove rust and rhymes with their own hands and how to remove them without hurting the body.
Causes and places of rust on the bodies of cars
Rust is an oxidation of a metal that occurs under the influence of air, water and static electricity. Therefore, the main cause of its occurrence is damage to the paint coating of the car body. Microcracks and physical damage allow air and moisture to get to iron. The rate of destructive impact will depend on the degree of security of the body itself and the aggressiveness of the environment. This is especially true when many chemical reagents appear on our roads.
The above factors directly affect the form, color and depth of corrosion. The people are called in different ways: "Ryzhiki", "bugs" or simply "rusty spots", but they have one (only the degree of neglence is different). With a separate stain rust, it is easier to cope with a lot of small red dots. The latter usually testifies to the poor quality of the metal or the unsuccessful body repair. The total processing area will be more. And the points are more often distributed deep into, and not styling. Paint swell also signals the need to remove corrosion, which began to develop under the LCP.
Places for most frequent localization of bugs and rusty spots (photo)
Work can be done manually or with special specials
The main thing, work carefully and slowly. There should be no deep scratches and rude transitions. Try to get a polished surface with smooth drops.
Bulgarian is often in the arsenal of motorist
The damaged LCP damaged LCP is removed over the layer and subsequent damage zones are processed.
The durability of the result depends on the carefulness of work
Universal Types of Puttles, oddly enough, are still not suitable for all types of autocuses
It is applied in several layers and each is grouped to a smooth state. Your goal is to close all the deepening and achieve an ideally smooth surface after completing the work.
To work, you will need several types of emery skins.
Do not spare protective funds, especially if you do work for the first time
To do this, the film, newspapers and greasy tape are perfect. If you are working on the street, then definitely consider the direction of the wind.
Make sure that dust and other abrasive particles do not fall on the processed surface
Painting works require minimal skills!
Not always the result happens as in the photo, it is often necessary to refine and eliminate flaws
A good way to remove and embed rust on the door of the car (video)
Chemical way to get rid of corrosion with your own hands
The method of use of chemistry differs only by the initial stage - cleaning the part from rust. According to the reviews of manufacturers, these substances can erase rust, stop further its distribution and do not damage the iron itself (unlike the "sandwich"). Application is very simple - apply tool 30-40 minutes per rusty surface, after which wipe it with a cloth or washed with water. But for obtaining a beautiful and smooth surface, you will still have to clean, put and polish (with the exception of the initial stages of corrosion).
Some funds are available to motorists even with the most modest budget
There are sets on sale that allow you to independently apply a protective layer of zinc on the body of the car. A solution is already present to remove rust and apply a protective layer, as well as an electrode with a zinc tip. This is an electrochemical process, so you need to connect to the battery.
The set includes fluids and all the necessary worker insignificant
How can I remove "Ryzhiki" and "bugs"
Many people want to believe that if the rust only appeared and the foci are small, they can be eliminated by some wonderful agent. Unfortunately, it is impossible in principle. Rust manifested on the surface of the LCP - this is like an Aisberg Top, the main damage is deep inside.
There are products that will help remove redhead color from the body. For example, there is a paste "Antirushavina" - it is pretty quickly and well eliminates red spots. This is the same rust converter, which we considered above. It eliminates visible signs, but the source itself is. Such manipulations usually grabs 2-6 weeks (depending on weather conditions), and use them most often immediately before selling the car.
Small "bugs" sometimes deliver great problems to the autler car!
If you want to get rid of the problem in the long run, then without physical intervention can not do. It is necessary to stop access of air and moisture directly to the metal. Theoretically, you can extend the effect of the paste, if after processing to cover the damaged body area with a transparent varnish. But it will work if the converter managed to eliminate the whole rust. In most cases, this does not occur, since the penetration depth is small.
For a long time to hide the damage only with the help of pasta, alas, will not succeed
Car Prevention and Protection
Associate the work done will help the funds available to each motorist, but which most of them ignore:
- regular car wash even in winter (extra waxing increases protection against aggressive medium);
- regular inspection of a clean car (in the initial stages it is much easier to eliminate the problem);
- sanders and mudguards on all wheels (retain LCP in the presentable form much longer);
- anti-gravial film on the hood and part of the roof over the windshield (alternative - "fly swatter");
- anticorrosive processing of the bottom of the machine.
Work to eliminate "bugs" and "Ryzhikov" for everyone. But for a good result, cheepingle and time will need (especially for the first time). Think whether the forces prevent such sources of trouble. Launched corrosion leads to expensive body repair without guarantees. Take care of your car, and he will repay.
