Electrical equipment of the UAZ-31512 cars, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 are performed on a single-wire diagram. The negative conclusions of the sources and consumers of electricity are connected to the body and the rest of the car units that perform the function of the second wire. Side DC network, with a rating voltage of 12 volts. The protection of the electrical circuits is organized through the fuse block.
To switch the main chains of the car, a combined ignition switch is served from the contact part and a mechanical anti-theft device with a lock. With a non-working engine, all consumers feed from the battery, and after starting the engine - from AC with a built-in straightening unit. When the generator is running, the battery is charging.
When the engine is idling at idle, the rotor speed of the generator rotor and, respectively, the current current is insufficient to provide powerful consumers, such as headlights, wiper, electric agent, alarm. In this mode, the battery will be discharged.
The location and purpose of the fuses of the electrical chains of the on-board network UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519.
To protect the electrical circuits of the outdoor lighting of the car from overload, a bimetallic fuse 29.3722 is applied or the like, which is installed under the instrument panel on the left. Three fuses of 10 amps are installed in the PR103 fuse block fixed on the motor compartment partition. They protect:
No. 1 - chains of control devices;
№ 2 - chains of rotation pointers;
No. 3 - emergency alarm and sound signal circuits.
Fuse number 1 is closer to the right side of the car. The power supply circuit of the heater fan is protected by a fuse with a nominal value of 6 ampels. The fuse is fixed on the wiring harness next to the heater switch. Cars UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 can be equipped with other additional fuses, depending on the configuration.
Check the electrical chains of the on-board network of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 under voltage.
Chains are checked under the voltage and ammeter. The voltmeter is connected parallel to the tested device or section of the chain. Measurement limit 0-15 or 0-25 volts of DC. The negative wire (probe) is connected to the mass, positive - with consumers or current sources. By dropping voltage, it is possible to determine the malfunction of the supply chain - a break, the oxidation of the contacts, and the like, as well as a short circuit in the consumer.
To check the voltage circuits, you can also use a control lamp with a power of no more than 3-4 W, designed for a voltage of 12 volts, for example, the AMN12-3 lamp used in the instrument panel.
The ammeter should have the upper limit of measurements of at least 10 AMPER DC, as well as overload protection. Ampmeter Connect a sequentially with a checked device. Plus the device is connected to the current source, and minus - to the consumer's plus. If the current is less required, the electrical circuit is faulty, and if there is no longer a closure in the consumer.
What kind of gentle nicknies did not receive a UAZ-452 car over the years of operation: "loaf" and "Baton" - for the external similarity with bread brick, "Tablet" - for a reliable service in medical organizations.
It is noteworthy that its design and individual systems - transmission, body, or electrical wiring diagram of the UAZ 452Os are quite enduring. Perhaps it was the only car in those years capable of getting into the most distant places with humanitarian goals.
The famous loaf has become a multipurpose car for countryside
Meet UAZ 452.
The car was a cargo-passenger version of the vehicle of increased patency with a 4 × 4 wheel formula. Osill the release of the model Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant back in 1965.
Its opportunities can be estimated by looking at the following video:
UAZ 452 is able to transport cargo in the body weighing up to 700 kg. In addition, it can tow a trailer weighing 850 kg. The vehicle has become very popular not only in the conditions of Russian off-road, but also successfully applied in large cities in various quality (in the photo in the article).
In particular:
- As a car service car;
- As a fire truck;
- Ambulance car;
- Grocery shop;
- Vehicle communal services, etc.
Electronic components
Contemporary Color Elektroke UAZ 452Wiring UAZ 452 was a simple single-wire diagram.
Constructively she had the following solutions:
- The role of the second wire played a metal body and attached knots and aggregates attached to it;
- All electronic components and executive mechanisms had "-" bred on the body. The price of such a solution justified the imperfection of the scheme.
Reference: Instruction provided regular contact checks. When oxidized, they should be cleared with sandpaper.
Force aggregate
The engine compartment is located right in the car's cabin, as this is due to its design.
Access to nodes and aggregates is also carried out from the cabin, by removing the lid, which:
- Ensured the protection of the driver and passengers from the penetration of exhaust gases;
- Protected from dust and dirt;
- Served as an additional heating element (passive - from heating).
Previously used the motor with "Victory" was replaced with a more modern engine from the 21st Volga. This was facilitated by the launch of the production line at the Volga Motor Plant in 1964.
Note! Despite some skepticism regarding inconvenience when servicing a bad car with their own hands, years of operation proved that there are no difficulties.
Passive safety car
The design of "Baton" with a bad layout also initially caused a number of questions regarding security. However, a series of crash tests conducted in 1971 at the Dmitrov Polygon proved that in most freelancers, the driver and passengers of UAZ 452 have chances to avoid injury.
A vivid example of comprehensive tests "Tablets"
Features of electrical equipment
For designers, a more complex process in those years was to find high-quality components for equipping the ignition and lighting system.
It is clearly visible to filling the cab:
- car system management bodies;
- control devices.
External lighting
Everything was going to move and establish uninterrupted delivery to the factory conveyor.
In particular:
- from the predecessor of loaf - GAZ-69 the factory workers borrowed a foot switch of light;
- From GAZ-24 headlights, etc.
Ignition system
Since the Volgovsky motor was installed on the batons and loaf, the Wiring of UAZ 452 for the ignition system was almost completely copied with it.
Finally
Many of us remember about the legendary car.
Therefore, his appearance on the show dedicated to the Olympic Games was perceived as part of our glorious history of the development of the domestic auto industry.
Buanka has received participation in the 2014 Olympics
Designers of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant equipped UAZ 31512 electrical equipment. Scheme of electrical equipment UAZ 31512 may be needed if necessary to repair cars. For the convenience of repair, the manufacturer has installed a wire wire with a different color insulation.
Electrical equipment UAZ 31512
Wiring diagram UAZ 31512 is performed on a single-wire principle. This means that consumers have a total minus contact that is the car body.
The electrical equipment of the car consists of several systems:
- Nutrition;
- Launch and power supply of the power unit;
- Measuring instruments;
- Outdoor and internal lighting;
- Light alarm;
- Autonomous heating;
- Cleaning windshield;
- Sound alarm.
Important: To avoid fire when the short circuit or overload, the electrical circuits are protected by fuses.
The voltage of the car network is 12 volts. Power is carried out from the battery and the DC generator. They are included in the chain in parallel. The rechargeable battery feeds consumers with a stupid engine. After starting the installation, the power of electrical equipment is carried out by the generator.
Power supply and launch of the power unit
The motor starts with an electrical starter. It is an electric motor. The starter is equipped with a retractor relay. It is used to turn on the device and introducing a gear gear with a motor flywheel. Turning on the starter remote using the ignition lock.
Power supply is necessary for normal operation of the internal combustion engine. It includes:
- High voltage coil;
- Distributor;
- Spark plug;
- Electroclapper idling;
- Switch forced idling;
- Idling ebe;
- Switch.
Control lamps and measuring instruments
On the front panel of the car there is a unit of instruments and control lamps. It is necessary to control the work of the nodes and mechanisms of the machine. On the panel are set:
- Fuel level switch in the tank. Readings are removed from the sensor installed in the left or right tank;
- Coolant temperature device. Indicates the temperature in the engine cooling system;
- Oil pressure appliance in the lubrication system of the power unit;
- Voltmeter. Serves to determine the voltage in the on-board network;
- Emergency oil pressure lamps, liquids in the brake system;
- Signal lamps of turns of turns, parking brake system, lowlight headlights, exceeding the permissible temperature of the coolant.
Outdoor and internal lighting
The car is equipped with external and internal lighting. It is necessary to use the car in the dark. The outdoor lighting scheme includes the headlights of the near / high light, overall lights, and the backlight of the license plate. Outdoor lighting is controlled by a combined switch.
Internal lighting is made in the form of a ceiling lighting beam and a light-free lighting lamp. Salon lighting plander is controlled by a switch installed on the front panel. You can also read about.
Reference: The internal lighting includes the backlight of the instruments. The brightness of the backlight is regulated by the combined outer lighting switch.
Light alarm
The UAZ 31512 electrical circuit includes a light alarm system. It includes turn signs, braking signals, and a ceiling plafof by reverse. Circuit circuit on UAZ 31512 with PC 950 relay. It is used simultaneously for turn signals and inclusion of alarm.
Light alarm management is carried out by the following elements:
- Switches of turns;
- Button turning on the stop signals;
- Reverse Plafth Switch;
Heater and beep
UAZ 31512 is equipped with an autonomous heater. Hot air circulation in the cabin is carried out by a fan. The fan motor starts the switch installed on the panel. The fan motor has two rotor rotation rates.
The machine is equipped with a beep. It is necessary for the safe use of a car on public roads. Under the action of the electrical current of the signal membrane begins to fluctuate, making the sound. Signal control is carried out with a button located on the steering wheel.
Purification glass
The windshield of the UAZ 31512 car is cleaned with electrical drive brushes. The wiper engine has two modes. The glass cleaning system includes a washer electric motor. The system management is carried out by a combined switch.
Attention: the electrical equipment circuit includes a socket for connecting the trailer wiring.
It follows from the above that the EAZ 31512 equipment consists of several electrical circuits. Wiring is made by multi-colored wires. This facilitates the repair procedure in the presence of a color scheme.
Electrical equipment of cars UAZ
Electrical equipment schemes
Measuring instruments and alarm alarms
Generator
Lamps, headlights, lights
Connecting additional consumers
Other Questions on Electrical Equipment
Electrotebers - see "Equipment"
When finalizing the fuse block, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the first person must be the most subtle part of the entire chain. Any place behind it should be thicker, to pull out the current more of its setpoint (launching or opening on heat), it is possible to extend (without trying to work) the current of the EM Passage (you wanted for the machines, it never comes out with UM setup, it never Only for high-voltage systems) and finally, the CWs in the largest point of the chain have a sufficiently small society so that the current in the circuit exceeds the setpoint of the first manner (for the Pathartp - the thermal setpoint).
These are teections from PUE, but it is clear that the same thing is the same in the same ways to reflect and low-voltage chains, to the car.
Accordingly, it will be necessary to hang everything on one baaalone button at least 100a. PRIOVOVYY SPEAGE And the button will not pace. hang them on separate pranks.
Furious, thermal, whatever - if only only on separate. Because their setpoint is greater than 20-30, there can be no one, so much (long-term) ppovod in the harness does not extend see the selection of the section of the automotive wire If the sweathers are more - to make them on the Paznic Pancasters, the same FPIs - one on the first personnel, the stove is on its own and TP and so on.
Put two regular blocks for fuses, more than enough. One block is powered only when the ignition is turned on, etc. constantly. The advantages of the regular block: can be used and wire and regular Volgo (Zhigulevsky) fusible inserts (enough to straighten). Quite reliable fastening fastener insert and the fuse itself, the cost of inserting a penny, I'm not talking about the wire (argument against very modern blocks and fuses to them). But in general, the case of taste. I love when in the car all the equipment is the same type.
From my experience it turns out like this:
If you leave the old block without making changes to the standard wiring, and the new (second) you need for the additional you have installed, consumers, then it is better to use the Volgovsky block, put it to a thread into the salon.
It is good simplicity of the replacement of the preoccupans, the ease of the selection of their power (not only 10a, like the native wire, but also 12a and 14a and even 20a), etc.
Also, the staff has such a bug that if the prejunction to shove him too much. It can navigate to the "Block" housing.
In addition, Volgovsky has no prexudes in the nests, the contact is more reliable and the wire does not erect
There is an extremist version - to hang the assembly of ordinary machines by 220V. It works, and very efficiently, and reversible (cut off - turned on an incremental) but painfully overall. Here, some maniacs are so done, right on the torpedo are fastened.
I put myself a Volgov ruler. But they still do not have enough, I will put the second. Made like this: a large plate of luminous, it stands on it a line of fuses, on it all the relends (headlights, bibikalka) and interrupters (turn signals, wipers). It is not very convenient to bring the total bus, but I turned it like this: 2 contacts from each fuse, I adjusted the neighboring and well released, but it does not consider it reliable, in the future you solder a thick copper rod. Regarding the reliability of doubts, it was not yet - contact for fuses flat and wide, clamping very well. There is a thought to make an indication of the fuses to immediately see, whether everything is good, since each of each moves two contacts - to everyone to hang the LED, but there is a doubt if it is necessary. Yes, this whole block I dragged into the salon. [Hippo 4x4]
UAZ Patriot (UAZ-3163)
Vector electrical equipment 316x: (Schemes sent Gudkov Victor)
Electrical equipment for cars ,,, error - three diode in the generator, those that are on a common (on earth?), It is necessary to flip -) ( Attention! - very large size, about 1.7 MB each scheme, sent Maxim Smirnov):
Electrical equipment for cars (size 415K), (453k), sent [Sergey AS])
Motor control system diagram (242K) UMP-4213, UMP-420, ZMZ-409, sent [Sergey AS])
UAZ-3151 (31512, 31514, 31519)
UAZ-3159 (Bars)
Lamps applied on UAZ cars| Lamp | Type of lamp | Power, W |
|---|---|---|
| Headlight: Far and Middle Light | A12-45x40. | 45x40. |
| Rotary headlights (3962 * / 3151 *) | A12-50x40 / a12-45x40 | 50x40 / 45x40. |
| Front lights | ||
| - overall light | A12-5 | 5 |
| - Run signs | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Rear Lights | ||
| - overall light | A12-5 | 5 |
| - Run signs | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| - Brake signal | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Repeaters of rotation indicators (at all a / m, except 3303 *) | A12-5 | 5 |
| Reverse Light | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Lighting Lighting Lighting | A12-5 | 5 |
| Lighting lighting special (3962 *) | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Lighting lights under the hood (315 *) | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Cabina lighting lights | A12-1. | 2,1 |
| Portable lamp | A12-21-3. | 25 |
| Lighting devices Controlling the inclusion of far beam headlights Control of emergency oil pressure Control of emergency coolant overheating Control of turning on the direction indicators The alarm state of the brakes Parking Brake Inclusion Signal |
A12-1. | 2,1 |
| Alarm Control Control | A12-1.1 (A12-0.2?) | 1,1 (0,8?) |
By the way, I hope the lamp is not Taiwan or the Emirates? And then I bought somehow (young it was, green) such - beautiful, 100/90, super-duper, and then I remember the current tester and it turned out that they were 55/60, and even shine crookedly. But the German (Narva, Philips) thing - and shine cool and the quality is excellent - you change the lamp, and the headlights do not need to adjust - everything remains exactly in their places. [Chif]
As a specialist in this matter, with confidence I can say that it is not worth saving on the light bulbs.
All automotive galloping lamps are divided into three main categories:
1st (cheap) are light bulbs made from g% # A, i.e. Flask from ordinary glass, low-quality metal spiral, bad soldering.
2nd (expensive) are high-quality lamps, i.e. Flask made of quartz glass, high-quality spiral metal impurities, neat climbing and soldering the base.
The 3rd (fakes) are light bulbs made from the materials of the first category, but neatly, and selling at prices is slightly lower than the second.
The overwhelming majority of automotive headlights are designed for lamps, with a capacity of 55 or 60/55 watts. The use of any other higher power is not advisable, since the increase in heating such a lamp far exceeds the increase in illumination, which by the way is very small. In modern lamps use other ways to increase the light flux.
In both machines, it is just the last, Philips Vision Plus + 50%. In Niva, the bulbs survived countless batches (in the onset form) and four or five headlights, how much exactly - I do not remember. In Uaz - experience the second set of headlights. And there and there the light bulbs work and do not go to die yet.
Yes, I want to add, buying such light bulbs is always a set! And unfortunately, the fakes on them too ... :-(
As far as I know, the "native" Philips Vision Plus has never been produced in a plastic transparent container! Only in cardboard boxes (set 2 pcs.) Or in a blister on cardboard (piece).
Konstantin Martyanov March 2004 (http://www.auto.ru/wwwboards/uaz/0686/212047.shtml) How to improve regular lighting without applying add. Far
You can put halogen optics. (For machines that do not have it - (y) alphabet) For halogen headlamps, optics should be with the H4 index. If H2, then the reflector will unwind over time. I put myself the optics H4, the lamps 90/130 and the power on the light bulb was allowed through the relay. The foot switch will not pull, burn quickly, and there will be losses on all sorts of connections. And then it was dotted with a thick wire feeding to the relay (two relys hang on the front wall near the left headlight), from the relay wire on the nutrition of the lamp (close to one relea, far from the other) and the old regular native wires used both commands for the relay. The light is beautiful, shining is far away, only occasionally plastic housing of the contacting lamp melts. Well, once in half a year, no more often.
After the invisible experiments, it came to the conclusion that the increase in the power of the lamps is not an output. Increases heating and load on the generator
I have now there are headlights with N4 optics and lamps 100/90, but after installing the level headlights with optics from VMW (Hella), I realized that the domestic headlights are not very good. I set two headlights of the near light from the BMW 5 series in the Body E12 (model of the 70s) - the result exceeded all the expectations: Middle Lights with lamps 55W several times better than a regular b / s 90W.
With the same energy consumption, Hellovsky headlights give 2 times a large light output than ours.
Also, in my opinion, the headlights from the Volkswagen of the Golf family or the conveyor family can be seated.
In addition, imported headlights have a flat glass, which simplifies the task of removal and setting them behind Kangarin.
I came to buy light bulbs - chose not the most expensive and not the cheapest. I paid, I take, I open and look - one frankly curve, the other is not a curve, but also something in it is not something. I notice something with the eye, but I can not explain. I ask the seller to find straight. I have nothing to do, the seller, too, is a full and kind ... As a result of the lines of light bulbs at a price of up to 30 rubles (inexpensive store), we do not find at all. However, at the price "up to 50" we also do not find. Then the spiral is crying, then what. Well, that that on the light bulb is written "Made in Germany" - this does not mean anything. I watched I looked at all this pile, and I was seduced for normal German lamps on 85r. Piece - take in hand and video that this product is not done in Germany (well, what is written that "Made in Germany" is anyway anyway, no one can guarantee).
In the evening I went to install. I installed, I went to the darkness pitch and then I understood why the headlights regulate / irregular - all the equal to the oncoming glance. It is important as a light bulb gives a beam. Even without adjustments, simply after changing the bulbs it was seen that the trail on the ground became essentially "closer" with the car, even on the borders and uniform. In 5 minutes, everything was adjusted by the book, rode around the area, then a little lowered the beam to the level when the light border begins "where the earth gets out" from under the hood.
Yes, the light bulbs put the usual 60/55 - and live longer and warm as more powerful will not ...
I have been standing for the second year of Phillips Blue VisiOn, very satisfied ... It seems that there are fewer oncoming (from the observation of acquaintances), give a kind of white and blue light, very different from the standard for the better ...
According to endurance, the best thing I found from halogen is Tungsram 90/100 (seems to be Hungarian), cheap pretty. I have stood from 1999 with them with them I have an experience of driving about 2 weeks (including the Rostov region in the rain and at night about 8 hours) with a spacious with a stone optics. Light bulb is still alive, only a rag mudtyu is obter :-))) optics better put special under H4 (suits Zhigulevskaya), without any adapters there. I still put the lighting lights there: on the one hand, it is spectacular :-))), on the other hand, when driving in a small rain and fog (when the headlights are not particularly needed), optics warm up, preventing the condensate subsidence inside itself.
Do not get involved in lamps with a capacity of more than 55 \\ 60 W. The following reasons:
- The use of lamps of greater power is prohibited in Europe on the roads of general use and serious firms of such lamps are not released. Accordingly, no question (lighting, above all) does not have to talk.
- 90% - that the power of such a lamp (90 \\ 100 and more watts) does not actually correspond to the declared one.
- Due to the low quality of manufacture, such lamps light all anything - flying helicopters, stars, blind head drivers, just not the road. Although it will seem the impression that the headlights are shining brighter.
- In addition, the distinguishability of objects for the human eye in the yellow spectrum is higher than blue, because It (yellow) is more close to natural sunlight. This is the question of "painted" xenon
The diameter and planting places are unified:
Zhiguli (2101), Moskvich M408, IZH412, Niva, UAZ, GAS 24-2410, ZAZ968, Trucks Gas, Zil, Kamaz, buses grooves, Liaz, Laz, Kavz.
It is only necessary to remember what the optics are calculated under halogen lamps and not calculated. Also in some headlights there are holes under the lighting lamps of Gaabarites.
and Pointer switch gasoline
Under the seat there is a fuel sensor switch (put it there, so as not to pull the wires under the instrument shield) Route computer on UAZ
For carburetor models, the fuel consumption sensor and the speed sensor (as a rule, is the pulse counter, which is placed in the rupture of the Speedometer shaft)
Fuel consumption sensor
Trip computer
The tachometer (from the six) looks perfectly near (to the right) speedometer. Connecting a regular one - everything is written on the body of TAX. One - on the coil (low-voltage end of any). One - + 12V. One - weight. One is the backlight of Taha. By joke, you can connect the parking brake light bulb. Light bulbs of the generator can remain, but it does not connect without relay. And the light bulb is open (closed) carba air damper. The last three I have not connected, not hunting while messing around. The hole drilled 2.5 mm drill around the circumference less than the diameter of the Taha circle by 3 mm, then brought a round file. Holes need to be started to start. Strong drill do not harm! Otherwise, the panel will turn on the last holes.
I wanted to put from Gazelle, since the gear use only 1/3 of the scale - the turns are not those. And you can put it on the left to the panel instead of the transmissions. Moreover, the shooter is visually digital and less inertial. [Mikhail and Punto]
Installed Tachometer 35.3813 (from Gazelle) (inexposable). He took the housing from the old speedometer, the tachometer scale was cut along the diameter of the speedometer scale (while the tsiferki cut a little, but the readings are read well). It is important to save a transparent light guide (from the speedometer) to illuminate the scale, without it at night, the scale is not visible. The installation site is visible in the photo. Connection diagram.
I bought a tachometer from the tashometer 3110, it is so beautiful with the backlight of the arrow and numbers. When trying to simply connect, nothing happened. After the ferment of the faks and docks, everything fell into place. It connects as follows: There are 3 contacts behind the tachometer, and 3 wiring are going to them: red (connect it to "+" the ignition lock, I connected to the "+" switch), blue (it for mass), and yellow (it is mandatory through The resistor 62 by a capacity of at least 1 W connect to the "KZ" switch of the switch or to the ignition coil to the contact that is connected to the switch). Everything is working. Yes, the instrument index 449.3813. [Hippo 4x4]
Digital Multitronics, for example, the easiest option (only 3 wires): Power from the key (panel) and wire on the platter (in the instructions, see the "Volga" section)
He burned a couple of times (either from unstable nutrition, or such a design) - changed under warranty. Then electricians did a fuse in it (on a pip) and wound the coil (?) - Distance. While it works ...
Very useful wigure - now the main device. [Beard from]
Installation took 15 minutes. Do not drill anything. Fastened on velcro. Installation location must be carefully chosen. If it is well degreased, then you will not break off any forces. I inconveniently glued the same on the 8th. Then, when he drove, broke the body of the device. Velcro - power! [Faun]
Ftography of a digital tachometer installed on a helical sheer. [Chif]
Measures engine revolutions (dual-band: when the testimony is turned out for 1500, the numbers do not flicen), the air temperature in the cabin (or the fear, if the sensor is thrown into the street), shows the time, the temperature can be memorized and recorded in memory that e. Remembers the maximum and The minimum temperature per day and puts the time (it will be convenient for the winter to see what night was with the UAZka). The degree of brightness is regulated by three positions so at night not annoying.
Periodically, "removed" electronic tachometers.
Perhaps this is due to high voltage wires (more precisely with distributed resistance of these): I wanted to work only with the electronic tachometer "relatives" Wires that initially stood on my long goat.
Other wiring kits for UAZ, including
1) silicone,
2) black oak with thick copper residential,
3) red almost similar "native", but more rigid, with a thin copper vest
Called internally glitches in the testimony, which ultimately ended with the dependent instrument.
In principle, nothing good:
hours / alarm clock-uncomfortable, turnover shows only at a temperature not lower than +5 s, then it starts to bite, the numbers jump ... in general, it is better from 2106
It makes sense only if you need to know well-established turns. Brake it is very, while it can actually be from 0 to 3,500. It is necessary a shooter ... Econometer on UAZ
The item is necessary and useful, but this is not a device, but an indicator, i.e. shows exactly the vacuum in the intake manifold. By pressing the pedal, it is not always and determine what is happening, and when driving with an econometer on the highway in the green zone, it is not very bad to control the amount of flying gasoline. Guaranteedly sold in the southern port still in a yellow shop for truck spare parts on the Moscow Ring Road. The route computer is an order of magnitude more expensive, yes it is necessary to mount it. He helped me very well ... And the gasoline saves not the device, but you yourself think, and the indicator only shows the percentage of interest 20-30, but this is quite enough. (from UAZ-HUNTER to ordinary UAZ)
Electronic Speedometer AR 20.3802 (Two Strong Display:
The top line is a common mileage (6 discharges, insignificant zeros are highlighted), the bottom is a discharge meter of the daily path), the Speed \u200b\u200bsensor AR 68.3843 (six-filled, nonprisputable, M22 carving, Kozhemodeyanovsky connector). RAR production (Riga).
The difficulty in the installation was one - the complete absence of information both about the speedometer and the electrical equipment of the Hunter. The search for results did not give. Native harness with connectors was also failed. I had to use the method of scientific tick. With the sensor, everything is clear: red - power (+12 V) (after the ignition lock), blue - signal, black - ground. (The connector is simply cut off). At the speedometer, the connector has this kind (conditional numeration of contacts):
Conclusions were assigned:
1. Earth.
2. Power (+12 V). (After the ignition lock). (When the voltage is applied, a liquid crystal digital scoreboard is turned on. When removing the voltage of the reading of the path passed).
3. Signal from the sensor. (To blue sensor wire).
4. Night backlight (to the lighting of devices).
5. The output of 12 volts to power the speed sensor.
6. Far light indicator (symbol lights up in the center of the scale).
7. nothing happens. (Probably not involved).
Due to the lack of a response of the connector, connected with solitary wires with soldered tips ("Mama") from audio equipment. Everything is working. Not noise. The arrow does not jump. The error is minimal. And at night - generally beautiful.
October 2005
Why the red light bulb of the fuel level indicator does not work and how to fix it
On the bias-goats, on the fuel level sensors in the tanks, there is no "superfluous" contact on the light bulb.
Fix this position will help install an abnormal fuel level sensor. For example, gas-53, in size it is the same. I put in the left tank, the battlefield rolled up to the UAZ made a loop. At the second output, the reserve control lamp was connected, and the lamp itself put on the dashboard into the fuel level index (new sample). When gasoline is on the outcome, I will think about it right away and I do not recognize as before. How to make a fuel pointer to do not twitch on the slightest roadblock?
In parallel, the decanter is permafend the capacity of about 500.0 μF to 16V - we guarantee, it will not be forgotten. (+ On the gas tank sensor for any case).
Or maybe the problem is in bad contact on the potentiometer slider, which is worth it in the tank? Installation of alarm on UAZ
I advised me the seller of the alligator. Well, I bought with the installation. At the service, the installers fumbled, but once the money was paid - set. Long hung up with wiring to the back door - UAZ was naked, and the wire was stretched down in the frame. And here it turned out that the UAZ is too heavy for such alarm. That is, if you dispersed sensitivity, then any touch to the machine near the sensor causes the triggering of the siren. And behind the rear can be freely removed, and the sensor does not feel it. So it happened once ...
Signal should be installed either by itself or thoroughly! I put it in Blat - so the masters cursed everything in the world! Metal - fat, approaches are inconvenient and all that. According to them, it turns out that during the installation (correct and good, as for itself) on UAZ, you can put 3-4 Zhigul! From here Moral - just from the street - do not give well!
P. S. I have a mangone - pleased! Itself does not work, and when penetrating or removing the rear wheel - yells.
On the UAZ-469, the G250-E1 generator was established and the RP350 voltage regulator (201.3702). Now they can be installed:
G250-E1 and G250-P2 generators differ from each other with the dimensions of the drive pulleys, in addition, the G250-P2 generator has not one, but two outputs "sh".
A distinctive feature of the PP132-A regulator (2702.3702) is the presence of a three-position switch, with which the range of adjustable voltage can be changed:
Yes, it rises without problems, only the RR needs a new one, because The standard is designed for current 3 A, and is needed at 5 A. So such a bite of Volgovsky PP. By the way, it is connected differently - "+" from the KZ goes to one brush and on the terminal without letters on the RR, and the Clem "W" of the RR is connected to the second brush. The RR itself is attached to the ground.
Change the generator is worth it - it not only gives a larger current, but also gives it from smaller speed. [Chiff] Volgovsky relay regulator
Volgovsky PP, unlike UAZ, will also allow the generator to 65 and 90 A.
If you now have no remote RR - if I'm not mistaken, two wires go to it - one "+" from ignition, the second wire on the generator brush. We plant an RR on the body, the wire on the brush is cling to the terminal "sh", and the plus wire on the terminal without the designation. Better on the terminals to buy a block - Mom 2.
Next, check the brush knot. If two wires are suitable - ("+" from ignition and second from PP) - then everything and remain. Perhaps one is suitable - from PP, then you will have to buy a Volgovsky brush knot into two wires (two dads stick out there). On one cling the wire from the RR, on the other "+" from the ignition. It is better to wear a block too. [Chif] 90 ampered generator on UAZ
When replacing the generator to a more powerful, preferably, the wire from the generator to the battery will be paved directly and use the larger wire.
I put from the batch, I do not remember the name. I had to cut the ear that on the cylinder block, in general they know how to push (weaken the nuts and move) but only the back moves, I had to move a little too, but they are now unwanted. And change the bolt for longer. The regulator put in the salon, Volgovsky n / conductor.
The generator sewed:
The winding of the stator flooded with epoxy, carefully, in several goals. The horseshoe is also a thin layer, the fluidity regime will not go very much, it is enough heatflower. Cottles in the sealant red. He must be blown away. Thus, the excitation winding is not possible, i.e. When immersing in the water, he probably will not, but will not be, but not to fly, although not yet tried.
I stuffed myself from GAZ 66. Yes, it looks like it looks like a small but nuclear power plant. I first thought he was there and would not fit. But it is a regular fastening, it is adjusted to the bottom in the bottom. I had a little bit to cut. And I had to cut off the floor of the pulley :) He's two streams there, and then behind the meat grinder clings. I already ride more than a month, pokatushki all sorts, Tver, chandeliers, all things ... works without problems.
Problems of the 90am generator - Diodes disagreeing the fusion generator 90 A discovered that 3 of the 6 diodes were burned. The new generator delivered (also at 90 a) also causes doubts - it is the impression that at first he "fell" better (i.e., apparently one diode burned out). [Chif]
I took this, on the 90a, it was written that it was for GAZ-53 and UAZ. Before putting, revealed, looked. Inside - everything is OK (windings, brushes, bearings). Pulled the diodes, tested on the current - 2 burned
From GAZ-53 completely similar to the UAZ. But, they are also 2 species, standard (65a) and 90a. Generator GAZ-53 has no tablet. Those. Throw brushes with a "sh" terminal and put a tablet.
By the way: Generators from the UAZ, bull, the 53rd lawn, everything as brothers, both in size and as the dream
Generator 90A from Audi 100.
Alterations: Until the ear under the UAZ bolt + slightly redone the regular fastener with the addition of the sleeve on the bolt. The essence of the alteration of fastening and manufacture of the sleeve (you can a few thick washers) in that the pulley of the generator is located with the pump pulley in the same plane.
By the way, 90 ampered generators from Audi 100 are 2 types. You need one whose ear under a bolt is one large (another type - two small ear). But I still recommend to go to the search for the generator with the native UAZ in hand. And there are still different pulleys, but there are practically such a UAZ - His and take him. We (Minsk) such a generator costs 25-30 USD. Why do you need to make a diode bridge to the salon?
In difficult conditions, the heat treatment under the hood will be 80-100 degrees. And semiconductors retain their efficiency Max to 70 degrees. Those. Diode Bridge, RR, if they are under the hood - work will simply stop.
There is another reason: diodes as far as I know glass, and heated to the operating temperature, they save it until the generator works, I'm you (well, or I, or someone else: Oh)) enter the water, they plunged into her burst because of the difference Temperatures and on the departure from the brow, you get a dead generator. I actually come out of these considerations to the salon.
Bus generator from Liaza, type Katk G-286 A, 14 in 80A. His "Plus" - gives the current from 500 rpm, but its size, weight and landing ... For his event, it was necessary to make a new bracket from the thick iron strip using a grinder and welding. Now the mount went a little down. A small pulley allows you to nourish carlsons at idle without battery consumption. Only one belt is not enough with this situation. The picture shows two belts and on the crankshaft pulley gas 24-10.
I saw from the groove stood at 120a. The size is the same. The entire alteration is reduced to drinking the grinding of the fasteners from the corner. Why is the charging of a powerful battery need a more powerful generator?
The car is used in the charging diagram of the champupus at constant voltage.
If you put a more capacious battery, then you will take a larger current when charging. There was a stock of a given current from the generator should be large. That is why it is recommended to set with an enlarged battery - a power generator.
The on-board network has a regulator relay, whose task is to hold the voltage within certain limits. With an increase in the load, the relay controller increases the duration of the control currents into the excitation winding of the generator and thereby causes the generator to give a larger current at a constant voltage.
This can continue until the load exceeds the generator maximum (in the first case it is 90A). Upon exceeding the maximum - the relay controller can no longer maintain the voltage, because Click nowhere. Accordingly, the voltage will see (fall). Well, naturally, the 100A voltage drawdown generator will occur later - i.e. It is withstanding on 10a loads more. Only and everything. And if the load is less than 100a, then it will be absolutely the same as the 90a. [Professor] Isn't it dangerous to install a capacity generator more than AKB?
When I start in the morning UAZ, then all 85 amps (from the generator) charge the battery (albeit briefly). At the same time, in any book on an autoelectrician, it is written that it is impossible to charge the battery with a current, more than 1/10 of its container, that is, in my case 6.5 A. And then the thirteenth-time excess?
Briefly speaking cars. The + (relay-controller) generator is the voltage source - its task is to maintain a less stable dummy in the onboard network. After the launch of the engine, the current shown by the ammeter is determined by the "desire" of the generator to provide in the network of 13-14 V, and the battery itself decides how much it needs, and takes from the nearest, with a fright from just what has happened to her. Its technical characteristics are laid in the design and everything is provided - 10 hour charge - 1/10 capacity, 20 hour and accelerated - 300% of the first (imported to 500).
"It is impossible to charge the battery, more than 1/10 of its capacity," I agree, but there is a parameter to the batter "Short-term" or "Non-destructive" Charging. So 1/10 is constant charge.
There are devices that "smooth" this short-term charge, they are trying to replace the voltage source of the current source.
7a at the beginning of work will provide approx. 13V, and after the acc. It charges (pretty fast) and "refuses" to take so much, the dill will grow - to the idle stroke voltage (approx. 18 V) to force acc. "get drunk". I did a similar device, and the question was passing along the way.
Summary: If acc. Good - he will stretch for 6 years, and if the greenhouse conditions do not help him. How to check the generator?
The excitation winding can be checked without disassembled the generator - the resistance between the current collecting rings should be 2.5 Ohm.
To check the diode bridge, the generator must be disassembled (although I think that if the generator is 65 A, the probability of departure of diodes is small). Nevertheless, they check them like this: take a light bulb with wires, one wire cling to "+", the other to the contact bolt of the winding (the winding itself is chopped). Wire "-" Apply in turn to the positive and minus conclusions of the block. In one case, the lamp should be lit, in the other - no. If the lamp on the bolt is not lit at all - the diode burned down. If it burns in any option - the diode closed. In turn, check all three bolts, then change the wires going to + and - batteries in places and again check all three bolts. [Chif] Thoughts for improving power supply
I want to create a scheme with two generators, but so that their chains do not come into contact, and one of the generators did not work at all in a regular state, but included only for the domestic (chandelier, winch, etc.) ..
Such a scheme sketched from the old German (?) Jeep. It is done that way: 2 generators for both sorrows from the engine. And it seems that ...
There are two aspects of the problem under consideration - reliability and cost. Buy one powerful inomarkovsky generator, and put in reserve. Technical tasks - solved, reliability - in the case of which we put the remaining spare native generator, for money costs, I think at least comparable ... [_ BYKA]
I plans 2 blocks of fuses - 1st (capotic) - Light relay (long and near), sound signals, carlosons. It is a thick wire with batteries, since there is a considerable current. Control wires - thin, salon. All relay windings are protected by a 1m common fuse. Contacts Relays and consumers are protected by each other. It turned out already at this very much relays and fuses. She planned to make it hermetic and place on the front panel of the engine compartment, because there is not a particularly important-important electronics, but will allow all the power wires to make short. Although it is possible to the salon.
2nd box in the cabin. In it, everything else is an electrician of janitor and washers (rear and front), ignition systems, tidy, radio stations, music, turn signals / accidents, sockets, interior lighting, electrical generator (rectifier, PP), etc.
To prevent the discharge of the battery in the "zero", I advise you to redo the light scheme so that the headlights turn on only when the ignition is turned on. In this case, you would have the dimensions, which may not have time to fully discharge the battery. And for a short illumination of picnic space, you can use the seeker fair. 11.2001 [Chiff] How to disassemble bendix without damage?
Acute screwdriver carefully you seek the edges of the rolling and in a circle, in a circle! :-)) When the rooted body begins to move to the gear, it is shifting one side to the right round shape of the edge (due to feeding with a screwdriver), shift one side to the cylindrical part of the clutch body and edit them with a hammer. It can be done differently (although it is a vigor :-)) - the spilled edge relates to the sectors (3-5 mm) and flex them. Assembly in the reverse order using the hammer - carefully bend the edges of the rolling, cutting them in a circle. [Chif] Adjusting Bendix
And you turned the axis of the starter? After all, it is an eccentric and regulates the "departure" of Bendix. It is checked this way - on the starter removed, you serve a plus on the control terminal of the retractive relay ("+" to the power bolt do not cling, and the axle body of the trap to mass). At the same time, the Bendix pops up, and the anchor does not spin. Bendix must not reach the stubborn ring of 1-2 mm. From practice - even half of the broken teeth flywheel are normally captured.
Bindix is \u200b\u200bquite often found in new starters. Other contrast - "Transition". In this case, the Bendix rests on the crown, and the starter's power contacts have not yet been closed - and it does not spin. That is, when you turn on the starter makes "click" and silent. [Chif] Why starter began to slowly twist?
If the battery is working, then one of the reasons may be bad "mass" on the engine. If it is not even something, it will still not be superfluous to do the following operation:
Bought a copper 8mm in isolation with copper ears (80r). I didn't want to drink under the car in the mud, screwed down the intermediate, where it came up - one end to the crop cover under the fastener of the KRISCHTEN Some Hose (Vacuum regulator hose - (y)). The second end of the accurate took out to the nearest bolt on the body - they turned out to be the top screw fastening the coil. That's where I screwed under the coil.
The effect immediately noticed - the wire from the gene stopped cracking, the starter switched faster than 2 times faster. The old braid did not touch at all - let it hang. Choice of the section of the automotive wire
| Nom. section, mm2 | Current power in a single wire, and with long load and at ambient temperature, | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20 | 30 | 50 | 80 | |
| 0,5 | 17,5 | 16,5 | 14,0 | 9,5 |
| 0,75 | 22,5 | 21,5 | 17,5 | 12,5 |
| 1,0 | 26,5 | 25,0 | 21,5 | 15,0 |
| 1,5 | 33,5 | 32,0 | 27,0 | 19,0 |
| 2,5 | 45,5 | 43,5 | 37,5 | 26,0 |
| 4,0 | 61,5 | 58,5 | 50,0 | 35,5 |
| 6,0 | 80,5 | 77,0 | 66,0 | 47,0 |
| 16,0 | 149,5 | 142,5 | 122,0 | 88,5 |
Note: When laying wires with a cross section of 0.5 - 4.0 mm2 in the harnesses, in the cross section of which on the track is contained from two to seven wires, the force of the permissible current in the wire is 0.55 from the current force in a single wire according to the table, and when Prepare 8-19 wires - 0.38 from current force in a single wire. [Lada FAQ site] Is there a speedometer for the UAZ with "day mileage"?
From the Volga take - all one in one (speed and distance). I tried himself. The gear ratios of the speedometer are the same, so it easily gets up from 2410. From 3110 worse - you need a speed sensor for a box. [Chif] Improving speedometer highlighting
I took me very much that I do not see the speedometer in the darkness ...
But in general, it does not hurt, but not pleasant.
Disassembled. Constructive disadvantage - the light bulb is located at the bottom and closes the speedometer mechanism. As a result, only the bottom is normal, which is not enough and the mileage counter. At the top there is a long-mounted indication lamp. Inside it there is an iron tube, so that only a hole on the dial and on the tube there is a blue light filter.
On the backlight lamp is a green light filter in the form of a cap. The whole thing is on rivets.
I thought that for me it is more important to illumination of the upper part of the speedometer - where the scale and threw the lamp of the distance light, broke the tube. The backlight lamp put on the location lamp.
Now the backlight of the speedometer is just a fairy tale! I did not even expect such a result :) Calibration of coolant temperature pointer
In its UAZ, it was parallel to the temperature sensor variable resistance in order to reflect the temperature pointer. Did this because of his incorrect readings. Rate of resistance is approximately 1 com. You can refine this: Take the sensor, immerse it into a circle with water (not completely), connect the wire from the machine and the mass, boiling the water to boil water to a boil (100 degrees), set up 100 degrees to the device - and you can drive, controlling the real temperature . [Gogi] Scheme of the electronic combination of devices AR 110.3801
I purchased a panel for 3162 RAR firms. http://www.shop.3160.ru/index.php?ProductID\u003d3394.
Excellent modern panel for the 3160 series. But the scheme was looking for a very long time, Rar was sent away from the plant. In Ulyanovsk, he learned that she was in the service book 3162 circulation of a book of only 500 copies! I found the scheme and I would like it to be accessible to everyone. The copy is very bad:
Page 1, Page 2
Lepis Dmitry (December 2007)
How to remove optical elements (headlights) with standard kenguryatnik?
In no way. It is necessary to remove the kenguryatnik - work takes 15-20 minutes, there should be no problems with only 6 bolts.
Twisted upper blade down. But you can break ...
These wires are not needed at all, from them one hemorrhoids - neither wash behind them nor the eyes take out. I spill them. Often I go through the forest, on the primers with a crushed stone - there was no trouble with the headlights. So in my opinion - the wires are butafory.
By the way, the bracket for fastening the fuel tube of the muffler from 2141 is ideal for headlights on Kegurin from 2141. And hard and size. [Timosh] What kind of "piece of iron" puts on the headlights of military cars
This is called SMU Light-masking device only comes for military equipment and puts on it during the battles, reduces the visibility of the machine from the aircraft, the most necessary thing in everyday life (and suddenly you will see aircraft Aeroflot), is only in military units, it is purchased at ensigns According to the established tax in the currency (liquid).
SMA Besides the narrowing of the light flux, there is another feature: it is possible to insert light filters (UV spectrum like) which are included with the binocular network of night vision (a rather ancient thing, such as theatrical binoculars attached to the tank slam) allows you to ride well, although Practically feel. In a normal life, adult people do not need a hundred years, the headlights shine much better than in this device can be seen. It is better to take "+" to connect chandeliers, sv-pass and other add. Consumers?
Sv is better to power with batteries, chandelier after the ignition lock. Everything is powered through mandatory add. Fuses in order to protect the wires. It is better to put an additional fuse block. Powerful consumers are preferably soaked through the relay, although my imho is better to put powerful (~ 20a) toggle. It is even more positive to chey bimetalic, scattering consumers by the same additional block. It is useful to introduce an ammeter into the torpedo, it becomes clear that the generator must be changed or not. What is best to connect add. Energy consumers?
Necessarily through fuses - axiom
1. It is extremely desirable that the minuses of the power of each high-current consumer converge in the "star" at one point, and better - on the acc. Otherwise, with bad contacts of the mass and highly remote points of its connection from the initial, zona (tipping) and interference in radio and sound inspection equipment are possible. The iron car body is not at all such a good and reliable conductor ... The same in principle concerns the advantages of nutrition, but the mass is more important.
2. In M-na, there are ready-made power wires-braid to Akki, who at the Accord terminals are made to connect-lamella ("dads") to connect additional users - they are sewn ordinary, for sure they keep currents up to 30 A. Such wires seem to be regular Stand on new "Volga". [ATZ]
On sale there is a plug cable (electric terminal) - hanging on a thick wire, connects more subtle, which goes on some typical terminal bar with bolts. This is all sold in shops on an industrial electrician. A minus terminal so actually uninsulated spruce from the electric booster, fasten the bolts to the gland, a sort of copper stick with holes and bolts, sometimes for 30 holes. Ammeter, its type, where better to connect
More often comes across for sale 30/30 (Native Uaukin, and there are a lot where they stand), there are 50/50, I Nadybal 100/100 from the groove.
Connect: "-" instrument on "+" battery, thick wire from the square generator 10 on "+" the device, and it is distributed to consumers with it, including the ignition lock, the correspondingly thin wire from the starter we take off at all. Thick between the battery and the starter are left, to measure there is nothing - the current is large, but briefly, so the starter is past the device!
To measure the charge-discharge current of the battery, you need to do this: the wire from the generator is to connect with the consumer wire (it goes from the terminal + starter, where the thick wire is suitable from the battery), but also throw the wire to the battery from this connection. [Chif] "Sailing" voltage in the network when enabled extra. consumers
It arises due to the voltage drop in the regulator circuit. If you measure the voltage on the battery, it will be fluent about 14-16 V. The cardinal solution is to connect the terminal "+" generator with the terminal "+" of the regulator through the relay, closing when the ignition is turned on. It will also help to avoid "reloading" the generator as a result of the overestimated voltage. Check the same contacts - including the "masses" ... [Chiff]
When I got a big drop in the voltage in the power supply chain of the generator excitation winding (1.5-2 V!) And as a result, the booming of the battery, I resulted in a relay controller directly from the "+" generator through the relay, closing when the ignition is turned on. After that, the voltage on the battery was stable 13.9-14 V, but consumers began to launch him (there is also a consequence of the thin wire of the generator), having 12-12.5 V. Then I connected the "+" generator and "+" battery with a wire of 10 mm2. The result is excellent - voltage stable 13.5! In this case, I schitril a little, having achieved the same effect that you were - I didn't put a long-faced tagged wire, and laid to the battery (before the starter, there is already a "thick-fat"!) [Chif]
The reasons:
First: Stretch strap.
Second: The diode bridge (horseshoe) partially burned down. This is a replacement
Third: What was with me. The bastardly thin wiring from the generator should skip all 65a. Charging current, and my charred and half burned near the attachment to the generator. This was the cause. It is necessary to change it entirely. [Timosha] How to connect the electric drive? Mass is not turned off (goes through the winch)
In the general case, "minus" from the battery is also duplicated with a winch wire. When the "Mass" switches is disconnected, the mass will still be on the car body (closes through the winch). It was decided as follows: since the car was preparing for trophy in the category TP2, then an emergency turnover of the mass of the company "Sparko" was installed with the ability to join the engine when disconnected. It has 2 interspersed power contacts (and not one and the case as on the regular). One of them was minus the battery, to another two power wires: one - minus winches, another minus for mass. Thus, when the mass is disconnected, the winch chain is also breaking. The machine is completely de-energized ... as an alternative to an expensive ($ 35) switch from "Sparko" You can set a two-pole massive switch with a powerful metal key in stores of freight spare parts. Price - 250r. In general, in my humble change, this device for a combat SUV is not superfluous .. because it greatly reduces the likelihood of a fire due to CZ wiring ... How best to conduct wiring on the roof
The wires go from the switch under the instrument panel under the torpedo, then on the rack, where there is a small triangle connecting the roof and the frame of the windshield drilled through it through the gabage stand (I have a chandelier - an integral part of the trunk) - to Famram. Door of the wires do not disappear. September 2003.
Charging Indicator AKB
There is such a thing, the voltage regulator is called pH-4. So there is a light bulb indicator. When the generator lacks the generator to power the engine on small engine speeds - the light bulb lights up. The same in the absence of charging. In general, it burns when there is an email consumption. with battery. And goes out when admitting sufficient food from the generator. Very comfortably. I have a pH-4 for 5 years and a problem. did not have. Replacing the standard sound signal to Volgovsky We have two wires suitable, one of which, as far as I understood, constantly under the voltage, the second apparently controlled, from the buttons on the ram. On Volgovsky there is one terminal (though, there are two snails)
Everything is quite simple - you need to stick the type 527 relay or universal. On 527-and to the middle leg, you catch "+", to the extreme (which is closer) the wire from the signal button, and the remaining cling to the signals. On universal + throw on 85 and 30, on the 86th - button, 87 - signals.
For a good sound, the signal must resonate - the fastening it is not directly to the body, but through a steel 1.5-2 mm plate with a width of about 30 mm. [Chif] Speedometer adjustment
Inside the speedometer there is a spiral spring with a regulator. Here is this regulator and increase (if the testimony is overshadowed) "tension" springs. For this you have to disassemble the case. [Chif] Simplify engine starting
Need under the hood next to add. Starter relay Put a small button, closing 2 terminals of this relay ("+", and the one to which the wire from the ignition lock comes). This will turn the motor starter when the ignition is turned off and the generator. Several tips for the procedure Alteration Electricians
I did everything in parts. Electrician is all homemade. To begin with, he threw all the old wiring (left it only on the connectors, etc.) and began to do its from individual wires. He began with this scheme: http://akolubaev.narod.ru/myFiles/uazka/2.jpg. The wires took approximately 3mm in diam-re (big currents and for winter they speak well). Next, I screw the wire-I make a mark on the scheme, etc. When everything is connected to this scheme, do not be labeled, run through her eyes just in case. If the errors are not detected, you can try to start. If everything is OK, we form wiring in the harness. That is, you fasten the tape in the locations (winners) of the wires. Further, all this economy can be removed and thoroughly inlated. Next, I prepared a scheme for connecting devices and sensors, that is, I took the scheme from the site for 31512 and in the Paint-e removed the extra wires (tedious, but reliably). Next, as I did before that. And so on. As a result, the wiring was not worse than the regular one. Much time went only on the removal of old connector and fasteners. Farameter Farameter: What is the better - Native UAZ or Chinese crafts of 500-1000 eh?
"Native" with modifications. You take the native headlight, with smooth glass. The glass is clamped with petals on the reflector, you will open the glass. You need it. Next, in the store you buy a headlight headlight from 2106 (under a thin halogen). Choose gently glass, you need a reflector. Do not scratch it. Insert the headlight-seeker glass there, and insert into the housing. Everything! You have a halogen spotlight with a very good Har-Koy. [Alien, RoadHawk]
You can immediately search for "native" under halogen optics - (y). Alteration of fastening of AKB
After the next excesses from the battery, with an accomplished from his place (taking off the staffing basket) almost ending with the fire in the capacitor space, I decided that it was necessary to make a more competent attachment of the battery. Since the car rides the sport, the battery mount is one of the main security requirements. With such thoughts came to our garage where Shura "Alien" works above his 469m UAZ. Because Shura completely reworked the face of his UAZ (mudguards, wings), he already had to face the problem of installing the battery. This problem was solved by the manufacture of "basket" under the battery from the steel corner ... This design looks like this:
After catching what Shura quickly puzzle to me the basket, taking into account the installation of it at 31512 ... It is fixed on a regular place three bolts. After that, I went to the nearest store, where he bought two straps of fastening the expansion tank from the VAZ "Classics" .. Slightly up with the mounts, these belts were installed on the wall of the engine compartment above the basket, like this:
According to my estimates, such a design provides a sufficiently rigid attachment of the battery, but at the same time it does not complicate its replacement ...
Sergey Kirsanov
Lighting of the luggage compartment
Made the backlight of the trunk according to such a scheme. The placement of the logging and the switch is visible in photo 1, lanterns - in photo 2. If there is no security guard, then the unleashing diodes are not needed. You can and without a logger, then you can turn on only manually (here three positions: off, turned on manually, turned on automatically when the trunk is opened). [Anatoly Hohryakov (Hohan)]
It is difficult to imagine how the operation of the car without an electric filling would be organized, for this reason, the UAZ 31519 electric pump occupies an honorable place in the description of the machine. Being an integral, component of a modern car, this connection of nodes and functional elements is constantly being finalized and enhanced. Without a competently compiled drawing, do not figure out the kilometers of conductors and understand the connection with the rest of the equipment. Making changes to the design, connection of an additional consumer, the correction of damaged elements, will certainly be formed to turn to the UAZ 31519 electrical circuit. For ease of reading, the scheme is made color.
general information
A car with full-wheel drive UAZ 31519 was produced at the Ulyanovsky factory in the period from 97 to 2013. The main goal of the design of the unit, replace the moral outdated Machine of the UAZ 31514 with a greater power model. On the basis of the machine, modifications, which differ in each other, the level of interior decoration, and power plants were created. Due to the use of users with characteristics and parameters, the electrical equipment of UAZ 31519 also contains individual traits.
Connecting users of the UAZ 315195 machine and others. It is carried out according to the principle of a single conductor when the positive output of the equipment is connected in one chain. Minus conclusions are attached to the cooker, which plays the role of the second conductor. The voltage of the car's network is 12V, the protection of the equipment took over the block of safety elements.
The relationship between energy consumers occurs through the composite path of the pathogen, in which the contiguous part and anti-theft equipment are structurally provided. Wiring diagram UAZ 31519 provides consumer power using the current source until the power unit is activated. After activating the motor, the power is provided by a generating device generating an alternating current and transmitting energy through the straightening unit. In addition, the product charges the battery, maintaining performance. You can also read about.
Electrical scheme UAZ 31519:
Equipment and Schemes
When considering the electrical circuit of the car plays the role used equipment and power installation. So, if the carburetor is installed on the UAZ 31519 machine, then the drawing will not contain electrical designations characteristic of the injector and vice versa.
Motor ZMZ-409:
Equipment performance:
| Explanation: | Modifications of Machines UAZ: | |||
| 31519 | 315192 | 315194 | 315196 (5) | |
| Engine: | ||||
| Motor model | UMS-4218. | ZMZ-4104. | UMS-4213 | ZMZ-409 (04) |
| Clocks, (pcs.) | 4 | |||
| Cylinders, (pcs.) | 4 | |||
| Accommodation | Vertically in a row | |||
| Education of the mixture | carburetor | injection | ||
| Operating procedure | 1-2-4-3 | 1-3-4-2 | ||
| Camera section, (mm) | 100 | 95,5 | ||
| The move of the displacer, (mm) | 92 | 94 | ||
| Volume, (l) | 2,89 | 2,693 | ||
| Compression | 7,0 | 6,8 | 8,2 | 9,0 (9,1) |
| Moment, (nm) | 189 | 186 | 210 | 217 |
| Power, (hp) | 84 | 85 | 104 | 128 |
| Fuel (gasoline) | A-76. | AI-80 | AI-92. | |
| Electrical equipment: | ||||
| Wiring | One conductor, minus - machine | |||
| Network voltage, in | 12 | |||
| Generating device | 161.3771 | 665.3701 | Bosch or Spark | |
| Battery | 6st-60 | 6T-66. | ||
| Candles | A14BP; NR15YC. | A14DVR; LR17YC. | ||
| Starter | 4216.3708; 62.3708 | Bosch, Iskra | ||
| Ignition | Against hijacking, blocking the starter repeated on. | |||
| Wiper, (Before) | Electrician, three modes, two brushes. | |||
| Wiper, (rear) | Electrician, one brush. | |||
| Sprayer | Electrician, front and rear. | |||
Disconnectors of the chains
In order to maintain the integrity and performance of the chains of the UAZ 31519 scheme involves the use of disconnectors. The product is made according to the technology of connecting two metals, it is placed on the bottom from the dashboard. The three main protective elements, the value 10a are set in the special compartment of PR103, placed between the engine and the lounge.
The purpose of disconnectors:
- Fuse 1: protects control devices;
- Fuse 2: protects the device warning devices;
- Fuse 3: Emergency alarm and Claxon protects.
Disconnector No. 1 is located on the right side of the machine. Power supply fan stove, is protected by disconnector on 6a. The product is mounted near the stove switch. Machines UAZ: 315192, 315194 and more sometimes contain additional disconnectors, since the kit is changing.
Chain control
Control of the circuits of the UAZ-315194 machines, etc. without turning off the voltage, performs a voltmeter or ammeter. The connection of the first occurs in parallel, connecting with the checked segment or the device. Measurement range "0-25" in. When manipulation, the negative wire is fastened to the maintenance of the car, the advantage is attached to the user or supplier. The decline in the efficient electric field indicates problems of the chain system (closure, impulse, oxidation, etc.). Control is carried out by a light bulb, the power of the product does not exceed three, four W; Voltage twelve V.
Verification ammeter is carried out with a maximum limit of not lower than 10A stable current. Embedding a device consecutive relative to the controlled product. Positive contact concerns the source, negative - with the consumer. When the current value is lower than the required level, they talk about the fault of the electrical circuit, above - indicates the closure of the consumer.
