Diamond - Crystallized carbon, the hardest substance in the world. Diamond, pure, colorless carbon, brilliant due to the cut. Used to decorate bracelets, cases, rings, etc.
Anti-magnetic watch - A watch, the mechanism of which is located inside a magnetic protective case made of a special alloy, which protects the watch from magnetization.
Anti-glare coating - it can be both internal (when the glass is covered only from the side of the dial) and double (when the glass is covered not only from the side of the dial, but also from the outside, while the effect (from a direct angle) of the absence of glass is achieved and the dial is visible to the smallest details ). This type of glass is usually installed in expensive models of luxury brands.
Amplitude of balance fluctuation is the maximum angle of deviation of the balance from the equilibrium position.
Shock absorbers - devices designed to protect the axes of the parts of the mechanism from breakage under impulse loads.
Angrenage - the main wheel system, consisting of gears that mesh with other gears-tribes having less than 20 teeth.
Anchor mechanism (anchor) - consists of an escape wheel, a fork and a balance (double pendulum), - this is a part of the clockwork that converts the energy of the main (main) spring into impulses, transmitted to the balance to maintain a strictly defined period of oscillation, which is necessary for uniform rotation of the gear mechanism.
Aperture - a small hole (window) in the watch dial, which gives the current indication of the date, day of the week, etc.
Astronomical clock - a watch with an indicator of the phase of the moon, the time of sunset and sunrise, and in some cases the movement of planets and constellations.
Bezel - A ring around the glass, sometimes rotating. Depending on the design, the rotating bezel can be used to time a dive or to time another event.
The battle- Battle mechanism. In wrist, pocket and other watches, it is an automatic or manually operated mechanism that notifies the time of the battle.
Alarm clock - A watch equipped with a mechanism that emits a sound that turns on at a given time. This type of mechanism is most often equipped with a small table clock, but any other types are also found (pocket watches, wrist watches, travel watches, etc.)
Baguette - an elongated rectangular clock mechanism, a method of cutting precious stones in the form of a rectangle.
Balance - a balance wheel together with a spiral, forming an oscillatory system that balances the movement of the gear mechanism of the watch.
Second time zone time - The clock showing the time of the second time zone is usually called Dual Time, World Time or G. M. T. (from Greenwich Mean Time). There are models of clocks that show time in several time zones at once.
Water resistance - the property of the case to prevent moisture from entering the movement. The degree of water resistance of a watch is usually set in meters or atmospheres. A dive of ten meters corresponds to an increase in pressure of one atmosphere. This feature was first implemented by Rolex in 1926.
Pumping out - This is an accurate setting of the equilibrium position of the balance.
Glyftal - A hard, highly resilient, anti-magnetic and stainless steel alloy used to make all-metal pendulums, governors and pendulum springs.
Thermometer - A device designed to adjust the period of balance fluctuations by changing the effective length of the spiral. The end of the last turn of the spiral, before fixing it in the block, freely passes between the pins of the thermometer. Moving the pointer, the thermometer to one of the sides along the scale marked on the surface of the bridge, they achieve a change in the clock rate.
Guilloche - a method of processing dials, in which a drawing is made using an engraving machine in the form of combinations of simple and curved lines.
Diving watch - The body must be made of a material that does not interact with sea water, for example titanium.
The watch must also have a fully threaded screw-down bottom case with an O-ring or another type of crown sealing mechanism. The crown must be screwed down.
It is also advisable to have a sapphire crystal with a non-reflective coating.
The watch water resistance (usually indicated on the case back) must be 300 meters or more.
The hands must also be coated with luminescent material so that the time can be read accurately even in very low light conditions. The indication should be applied at 5 minute intervals and should be clearly visible at a distance of 25 cm in the dark under water. The same conditions for legibility apply to arrows and numbers.
The bezel should only be rotated counterclockwise so that the dive time readout can only be increased, not decreased, as a result of erroneous rotation, which could lead to life-threatening lack of air for the diver.
The bracelet of such a watch can usually be worn on the cuff of a diving suit, as a rule, it should not contain materials that interact with sea water.
Every diving watch must be individually tested and 100% quality standards. The check is carried out comprehensively: legibility of inscriptions, anti-magnetic properties, shock resistance, reliability of the bracelet clasps and the reliability of the bezel. And of course they have to withstand salt water and extreme temperature changes. Under all these conditions, the clock should work.
date- An ordinal number indicating the day of the month: (for example - "February 9"). Date Clock: A clock showing the date. Also called a calendar clock or simply a calendar.
Disc plate, wheel - Thin, flat, round plate. Date disc - A disc that rotates under the dial and shows dates through the holes. Disk of days, disk of months, disk of lunar phases.
Display - Indicator, mechanical, electrical or electronically controlled. Alphanumeric display. Display showing time in the form of letters and numbers, digital display.
Pendulum length (PL) - For identification, the term “nominal length” of the pendulum is used (with a certain number of oscillations per hour for each “nominal length”). The dimensions of the pendulum actually used in the clock differ from the nominal one.
Two-color watch (bicolor)
Jacquemarts (French Jaquemarts, English Jack) - Moving figures of clockwork, beating the time (in tower, grandfather clocks), or imitating it (in pocket and wristwatches).
Iron (steel) - Swiss watchmakers use the term aciers as a collective term for steel watch parts (return bar, screws, etc.) Semi-solid steels are used for running parts and compressible parts. Hard steels are used for screws, pins and other watch parts that require increased hardness. Extra hard steels are used for springs and watchmaking tools (cutters, file files, etc.)
Steel 316L used in the manufacture of watches does not contain nickel (Ni, lat. Niccolum). It is maximally biocompatible with the human body and does not cause an allergic reaction.
Groove - A circle located in the center in the center of the bezel of the watch, designed to hold the glass.
Gold / Gilding / PVD
Electroplating (case / bracelet) - a special method of coating the watch case by electrolysis in an electrolyte (when an electric current is applied), ions from the gold plate are attracted to the watch case, a gold coating is formed. The coating can be from 5 to 20 microns, depending on the number of cycles (erasure of the gold layer (with average use) is about 1 micron per year).
Gold- Pure 24-karat gold is almost never used in watchmaking because it is too soft and poorly polished. The 18 carat (18K) gold alloy corresponds to the 750th fineness, i.e. contains 750/1000 parts of gold. The rest of the alloy is copper, palladium, silver, or other metals that give the gold alloy its hardness, luster and a certain hue.
Precious metal, alloys of which are used in the manufacture of watches and jewelry. Gold alloys, depending on the composition, have different colors: white (white gold), yellow (yellow gold), pink (rose gold), reddish (red gold). In its pure form, gold is yellow.
Plating the case and / or bracelet of the watch (usually made of steel) with a thin layer of gold. Mostly gilding is found with a thickness of 5 and 10 micrometers. Currently, PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating has become widespread in the watch industry - superhard titanium nitride is applied to the case material in a vacuum, on top of which an ultra-thin layer of gold is applied. PVD coating has a high degree of wear and scratch resistance, while gilding is erased by an average of 1 micron per year, depending on clothing, etc. PVD application technology allows you to get very thin (from 1 to 3 microns, sometimes up to 5 microns) coating layers without any impurities. IPG (Ion Plating Gold) is a method of ionic deposition of gold with a substrate (an intermediate hypoallergenic layer); today it is the most wear-resistant gilding (IPG-coating is 2-3 times more wear-resistant than PVD coating of the same thickness). Gold plating thickness 750 °: 1-2 microns.
Two-color watch (bicolor) is a term used to refer to a watch with a case and bracelet made of a combination of gold and stainless steel.
Plant - A way of giving a mechanical watch the energy necessary for its operation. There are two classic ways of winding wrist and pocket watches - manual and automatic. During manual winding, the mainspring of the watch is twisted by means of the watch crown - manually. With automatic winding, a massive weight (rotor) of a special shape "works", which comes into rotation when the watch moves. The rotor transfers the rotational energy to the mainspring.
Gate valve - The grip, which can be used on the outside of the watch case, is used to start the movement.
Sidereal time - Time measured by the position of the stars. Local sidereal time at any point is equal to the hour angle of the vernal equinox; on the Greenwich meridian it is called the Greenwich stellar. The difference between true sidereal and mean sidereal time takes into account small periodic oscillations of the earth's axis, called nutation, and can reach 1.2 seconds. The first of these times corresponds to the movement of the true vernal equinox point, and the second is measured by the position of the imaginary midpoint of the vernal equinox, for which nutation is averaged.
Gear transmission - In mechanical watches, they are designed to supply energy to the oscillator and count its oscillations. In analog quartz - for connecting a stepper motor with arrows and pointers.
Watch back - it can be used as a sapphire or mineral glass, and can also be either deaf or screwed (installed on deep-sea watch models).
Watch factory - an operation consisting in twisting the main (main) spring of the watch. This operation can be carried out in two classical ways - manually and automatically. During manual winding, the spring is wound by means of the watch crown. Automatic winding uses the rotation of a specially shaped rotor that converts rotational energy into the energy needed to twist the main spring.
Crown or crown - a part of the watch case used for winding the watch and correcting the time and date.
Impulse Stone (Ellipse) - is a cylindrical pin with a section in the form of a cut ellipse (located on a double balance roller). In the watch, it interacts with the balance fork.
Power reserve indicator - indicator in the form of an additional sector on the dial, showing the degree of winding of the mainspring of a mechanical watch. It shows the time remaining before the clock stops, either in absolute units - hours and days, or in relative units.
Moon phase indicator - dial with a graduation of 29 days and a rotating indicator on which the moon is depicted. At each moment in time, the indicator shows the current phase of the moon.
Self-winding inertial sector ("Rotor"- used, but not entirely correct name of this part!) - a half-disk made of heavy metal, freely rotating around the axis of the watch, which, with the help of a reversing device, converts the energy of its two-way rotation into the energy necessary for winding the spring.
Indexes - designations on the watch dial in the form of numbers (Arabic / Roman), as well as in the form of scribbles, marks, figures and diamonds. Indexes on watches are printed and applied (polished, gilded and silvered).
Inlay - decoration of the case, dial and bracelet of watches with precious stones.
Carat - 1. A measure of the gold content in alloys, equal to 1/24 of the mass of the alloy. Pure metal is 24 carats. The 18-carat gold alloy contains 18 parts by weight of pure gold and 6 parts by weight of other metals. Along with this, the metric system is widely used, in which the content of the precious metal in an alloy weighing 1000 grams is determined in grams. Here are some of the sample default values \u200b\u200bset in various systems. 23 carats - 958 standard, 21 carat - 875 standard, 18 carat - 750 standard, 14 carat - 583 standard. The sample of the products is guaranteed by the imprints of a special stamp on them. 2. Fractional unit of mass, used in jewelry. K \u003d 200 milligrams or 0.2 grams.
The calendar - in the simplest case, it is present in the watch in the form of an aperture (window), in which the current date is displayed. More sophisticated devices show the date, day of the week, and months. The most difficult are perpetual calendars, which indicate the year, including the leap year. Perpetual calendars do not require the owner's intervention to adjust the date of the month, even in a leap year, and are usually programmed 100-250 years in advance.
Annual calendar is a clock device that includes indicators of the date, day of the week and month, and does not require date adjustment, with the exception of February 29 of each leap year.
Coaxial arrangement of elements -A term indicating that parts have coincident axes of rotation. In watches, many elements are arranged coaxially. If we talk about the internal elements, then these are the axes of the hour and minute hands in their classic arrangement.
Compensation - Temperature compensation is carried out on the watch to reduce the effect of temperature on the watch's accuracy. Since the influence of temperature has not yet been completely eliminated, if necessary, the most accurate clocks are located in rooms with controlled temperatures. Wrist and pocket watches are compensated by different methods, the main one is the selection of materials for the balance wheel and spiral.
Crown - In watchmaking, a crown wheel, an American term for a transmission wheel, which engages with a winder pivot (incorrectly called a crown wheel by the British) and a ratchet wheel on the cylinder shaft. A winding button (also, especially in the USA - a crown), a button of various shapes with notches, which facilitates manual winding of the watch. Crown winding push-button, has an additional movable crown for chronographs or sports stopwatches.
Stones - a term used to refer to watch parts made of rubies, sapphires or garnets, both synthetic and natural, which are used to reduce friction between metal parts.
Stone bearings are plain bearings used in watches, made of artificial or natural precious stones. The main material for stone supports in modern watches is an artificial ruby.
Ceramics - Derived from the Greek word "Keramos" meaning material made in a furnace. In watch movements, first of all, these two oxides are Al2O3 and ZrO3 (polycrystals). They are used for the manufacture of cases and decorative elements, sapphire (Al2O3 monocrystalline) for glasses and jewelry (Al2O3 + Cr2O3) for watch stones.
Ceramics Ceramic parts are distinguished by their exceptional wear and heat resistance.
Ceramic is a very hard material, but brittle and difficult to work with. Among the advantages of ceramics is its chemical inertness. Used in the manufacture of watches.
Watch case (eng. (Watch-) Case) - Serves to protect against external factors of its content - the mechanism. For the manufacture of the case, metals or their alloys are usually used: bronze or brass, which can be gilded, nickel-plated, chrome-plated; stainless steel; titanium; aluminum; precious metals: silver, gold, platinum, very rarely others. Non-traditional materials: plastic (Swatch watches); high-tech ceramics (Rado); titanium or tungsten carbides (Rado, Movado, Candino); natural stone (Tissot); sapphire (Century Time Gems); wood; rubber.
Lyre pendulum - The pendulum, which consists of vertical rods connected in the middle and which has a decorative ornament in the form of a lyre above the pendulum lens.
Marquetry (fr. Marqueteries - to place, draw, mark) - A set of thin plates of wood (veneer) with a thickness of 1 to 3 mm, of various species, exotic - such as the roots of American walnut, vavona, myrtle, mahogany, lemon or sandalwood, for example, or familiar to us: burl poplar, the veneer of which is wonderful material, walnut, ash, oak, maple, apple or pear, which are glued together along the edges in the form of a pattern or ornament, and then glued to the base - a flat wooden surface.
The technique of wood mosaic (marquetry) has been known since time immemorial and has always gone shoulder-to-shoulder with a similar intarsia style (from Italian - intarsio), which is the predecessor of marquetry and is a more laborious process of creating a pattern in which an image from thin plates of wood and other materials (precious stones, metals, mother-of-pearl) crashes into the wood.
Rubber - a material of natural origin, obtained from the sap of tropical trees. Has great elasticity and dielectric properties. In the watch industry, it is used mainly for the manufacture of buttons, crowns and watch straps.
Louisiana Alligator Skin - This is the quality skin of Mississippi alligators, which are cultivated by strictly controlled farms in the US state of Louisiana. The most valuable leather with the correct pattern is found on the belly of the animal. After a sophisticated tanning process, it goes through another 60 processing steps before turning into an elegant watchband.
Cabochon - a method of cutting precious stones in the form of a hemisphere. As a rule, cabochons are used to decorate the crown and in the lugs of the bracelet or strap to the watch case.
Caliber is a term used to denote the size and type of movement. As a rule, the caliber number corresponds to the largest overall dimension of the movement, measured in lines (1 line \u003d 2.255mm), and for some companies it is just a set of symbols to designate a particular model (L901 for Longines, 2824-2 for ETA, etc. .).
Line - the traditional measure of the size of the movement, equal to 2.255mm.
Limited edition (Limited edition - limited edition) - limited edition (consisting of a certain number of released watch models) each watch of the limited edition has its own serial number.
Release mechanism- A device that stops the joint movement of two parts. Mechanism for stopping movement and starting movement.
Pendulum hammer - Block for a pendulum. Modern pendulum hammer. The only peculiarity of this part is that it has a hole in which a spacer for a spring swingarm is installed. Acts as a link for the moving pointer.
Maltese cross - a movement element used to limit the tension force of the mainspring. This detail got its name from its similarity in shape to the Maltese Cross. The Maltese Cross is the emblem of Vacheron Constantin.
Instant daily rate - is the name of the clock rate, obtained when checking the clock mechanism on the device for checking the clock rate.
Marine chronometer - the most accurate mechanical watches, placed in a special case that constantly holds the watch mechanism in a horizontal position. Used to determine the longitude and latitude of a vessel in the ocean. The special case eliminates the influence of temperature and gravity on the accuracy of the movement.
Bridge - shaped part of the clock mechanism, which serves to fix the bearings of the axles of the clock gears. The name of the bridge matches the name of the gear.
Manufacturing mechanism - the mechanism, developed and created with the participation of one watch brand, at its own factory (increases the prestige of the watch and the brand itself), is mainly produced in a limited series and has its own serial limited number, which is indicated on the dial.
Cylinder axis - Axle supporting the cylinder and its spring. It consists of a cylindrical part called a center and a hook to which the inner end of the mainspring is attached. The upper cylinder axle trunnion is cut in the shape of a square for the ratchet wheel. The cylinder axle pins are inserted into holes in the bottom plate and cylinder.
Palladium (from Lat.Palladium) - White metal, belongs to the platinum group. Pure palladium and its alloys are used in the manufacture of watches and jewelry.
Parachute (or parachute) - The design of the shock absorption of the pins of the balance support (invention of Abraham-Louis Breguet). In the first version, Breguet created sharply conical pins that rested on a large and absolutely impenetrable stone (ruby) with a spherical recess. This stone was held by an elongated leaf-shaped spring in such a way that it could be deflected upwards in case of impact and then returned to its previous position under the pressure of the spring. In the event of a side impact, the pin could slide along the inner wall of the hole, thereby pushing the stone upward, and then automatically re-centered. The range of movement of the stone could be adjusted using a micrometer screw located at the end of the leaf spring. To restrict the movement of the balance supports, Breguet inserted a disc in front of both pins: if the impact shook the watch, these discs could hit the inner surfaces of the balance bridge or the plate.
Bar, clamp - In wristwatches, a thin metal rod fitted between the lugs to attach the watch strap.
Sample (English Hallmark) - Shows the proportion of pure precious metal content in the alloy. The test of the products is guaranteed by the imprints of a special stamp, also called a test, on them.
Sample of Geneva (Poincon de Geneve) - Indicates the special quality of the watch. The Geneve Watch Control Bureau, operating in the Canton of Geneva, has the only task of affixing an official stamp to the watches provided by local manufacturers, as well as issuing a certificate of origin or making special external markings. The word "Geneve" can legally appear on a watch only if certain rules are followed. The watch quality must meet strict requirements. They must be "Swiss" and have a direct connection with the canton of Geneva: at least one of the main production operations (assembly of the mechanism or its installation in the case) must be carried out in the canton of Geneva and at least 50% of the total cost of the product must be made in the same canton.
Heart rate monitor - Based on its name, the heart rate monitor is designed to measure the number of heart beats per minute - our pulse. The location of the pulsometric scale is the same as for the tacho and telemetry. On the dial of the heart rate monitor, the base number of heart beats is usually indicated (the most common scales are 20 or 30 beats). To measure the pulse, it is enough to measure the interval during which this number of beats occurred - the hand of the chronograph seconds accumulator will show the pulse value on the pulsometric scale.
Power reserve or reserve de marche is a device that is increasingly found in mechanical watches. The power reserve indicator shows the power reserve, usually expressed in hours on a 40-46 hour scale or, in the case of a large factory reserve, on a scale of up to 10 days. As a rule, the data is displayed by one hand, located in the sector of the upper part of the clock.
Platinum - the main part and usually the largest part of the frame of the clockwork, which serves to fasten bridges and supports of clock wheels (gears). The shape of the platinum determines the shape of the movement.
Cloisonne enamel - a sophisticated technology used in the manufacture of handmade dials. The essence of the technology consists in making deep recesses in the dial, into which the wire is then laid. The gaps between the wires are filled with a thin layer of powder, which after firing turns into hardened enamel, which is then polished.
Balance fluctuation period - is called the time during which the balance makes a complete oscillation, i.e. deviates from the equilibrium position in one direction, returns back, passes the equilibrium position, deviates in the other direction and returns back to the equilibrium position.
Shockproof device - consists of special movable supports, into which the thin parts of the balance axis are attached. The movable support is designed in such a way that in case of axial or side impacts, the balance axis is displaced up or sideways and abuts against the restraints with its thickened parts, protecting the thin parts of the axis from breakage or bending.
Perlage "snake scales" - is centric circles located close to each other, is performed with a cutter (usually on the plate and bridges of the mechanism).
Perforation - this is a section of round holes in a different order, used in watch straps and bracelets.
Plasma diamond sputtering - patented technology for processing metal surfaces. The thickness of the coating is only 1 micrometer, which is 50-100 times less than the thickness of a human hair. At the same time, it has exceptional hardness (5000-5300 units on the Vickers scale) and a very low coefficient of friction (0.08-0.12), because, like diamond, it is 100% carbon. The advantage of plasma spraying technology is the low processing temperature (below 100 ° C), which does not cause changes in the physical properties of the processed material. The obvious advantages of the parts of the one-button mechanism with plasma diamond coating are minimal wear, complete absence of the need for maintenance and the highest reliability.
Polished processing - glossy watch surface (case / bracelet).
Reference - Number of watches in the catalog.
Rhodium (from Lat.Rhodium) - A metal belonging to the platinum group. It is used in the watch industry to cover parts of the watch mechanism, dial.
Manual winding - mechanism springs
The energy source of a mechanical watch is a coil spring located in a drum with a toothed edge. When winding the watch, the spring is twisted, and when it is unwound, the spring sets in motion a drum, the rotation of which drives the entire movement. The main disadvantage of the spring motor is the unevenness of the speed of unwinding of the spring, which leads to inaccuracy of the watch. Also, in mechanical watches, the accuracy of the movement depends on many factors, such as temperature, position of the watch, wear of parts, and others. Therefore, for mechanical watches, it is considered the norm for a discrepancy with the exact time of 15-45 seconds per day, and the best result is 4-5 seconds per day. A hand-wound mechanical watch must be wound by hand using the crown.
Lever arm - Elongated part that precisely connects other parts of the mechanism.
Regulator - these are the seconds, minute and hour hands separately located on the dial.
Renovation - the crown, winding shaft, winding tribe, cam clutch, winding wheel, drum wheel, etc.
Repeater - a complex mechanical watch with an additional mechanism designed to indicate the time using sounds of different tonality. Usually such hours, when pressing a special button, chimes out hours, quarters of an hour and minutes. In the Grand Sonnerie models, the hours and minutes are chimed automatically, although they can also indicate the time by pressing the button.
Repassage - complete (preventive) repair of the mechanism.
Retrograde (from the English "Retrograde" - "moving backward") - this is an arrow that moves in an arc, and, having reached the end of the scale, "jumps" (moves) back to zero.
Rotor - (inertial sector) - An important part of the self-winding movement. The sector (weight) fixed in the center of the clockwork reacts to the slightest movements of the human hand. The kinetic energy of its rotation is transmitted through the wheel system to the spring of the barrel. Therefore, if you wear a self-winding watch constantly, it will never stop.
Moon phase distributor - complex clock mechanics: the disc rotates, indicating the position of the phases of the moon relative to the Earth.
Greenwich Mean Time, abbreviated G. M. T.) - A term meaning the mean time at the prime meridian, on which the famous astronomical observatory of Great Britain is located. The abbreviation G. M. T. is often used in the name of watches with the function of displaying the time of the second time zone.
Tachymeter scale - Needed (theoretically) to determine the speed of movement. It is very difficult to find a use for it, well, except that on a train or bus you want to know its speed. Then, passing the kilometer pole, it is necessary to start the measurement. When passing the next column, determine the speed on the scale. This function works more or less in chronographs, where you can forcibly start or stop the second hand. In simple watches, such a scale is generally decorative. So an example: you start the stopwatch, passing the post, and the next post appeared in half a minute - your speed on the scale is 120 km / h, if in a minute - then 60. I hope that there is nothing complicated. However, I would like to note that in our country the distance between the posts is not always equal to a kilometer. So on the Moscow Ring Road, the distance between the posts varies from 600 kopecks to 1800 meters.
Second - the basic unit of time, making up 1 / 86000th part of a solar day, i.e. time of rotation of the Earth around its own axis. With the advent of atomic clocks after the Second World War, it was found that the Earth rotates with infinitesimal irregularities. Therefore, it was decided to reset the standard for measuring the second. This was done at the 13th General Conference of Weights and Measures in 1967. The following was determined:
Spiral or hair - a thin spiral spring, fixed with the inner end on the balance axis, and the outer end on the block. The number of turns of the balance spiral is usually 11 or 13.
Spiral Breguet- a spiral, the inner and outer ends of which are bent so that the oscillation period of the balance-spiral system does not depend on the oscillation amplitude (isochronism of the system). Invention by Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Split chronograph- a watch with a stopwatch with an intermediate finish function.
Average daily rate - is called the algebraic sum of adjacent daily moves, divided by the number of days during which the daily moves were measured. In other words, the average daily rate can be determined as the clock rate obtained in the nth number of days and divided by the number of days during testing.
Satin finish - matte surface of the watch (case / bracelet).
Skeletonized rotor - have a cavity inside their case (the manufacturing process is expensive, since the rotor mass is recalculated again. It gives prestige and status to the watch model on which it is installed.
Skeleton arrows- have a cavity inside their case (the manufacturing process is expensive and gives prestige and status to the watch model on which they are installed).
Skeleton - watch with a transparent dial and a back cover, through which the mechanism is visible. The details of the mechanisms of such watches are decorated with hand engraving, covered with precious metals, and sometimes decorated with precious stones.
Arrow date (function) - complex mechanics: rotation of the hand in a circle indicates the date.
Super-luminova - the composition, which is superimposed on the cases of hands and digital hour markers, to ensure the determination of the time in the dark.
Sonnery - The English combat system, also known as the Petite Sonnerie, is a two-voice mechanism that hits a quarter of every hour. Grande Sonnerie beats an hour every quarter.
Twinsept - The digital data seems to "float" over the analog dial.
Telemeter - Using a telemeter, you can determine the distance from the observer to the sound source. As with the tachometer, the telemetry scale is located on the edge of the dial, next to the scale of the second accumulator. So, in order to determine the distance from the observer to the thunderstorm front during a thunderstorm, it is enough to measure with the help of a chronograph the time between the flash of lightning and the moment when the thunderbolt arrives at the place of observation. In this case, the hand of the chronograph seconds accumulator will indicate on the seconds scale the time between the flash of lightning and the thunderclap, and on the telemetric scale - the distance from the place of observation to the thunderstorm front. The telemetry scale is calculated using the speed of sound in air - 330 m / s. Those. the maximum distance that can be measured with the telemetry scale is about 20,000 m, which corresponds to a time delay between flash and sound of 60 seconds. This function is often used by the military to determine the distance to enemy artillery, the time between the burst from the salvo and the explosion.
Titanium (from Latin Titanium) - Silver gray metal, lightweight, refractory and durable. Chemically resistant. It is used in many areas of human activity, including the manufacture of watches.
Trust index- Indicator of the amplitude of the balance wheel. The fact is that when the spring is fully wound, the amplitude of oscillations of the balance bar of a mechanical watch is slightly higher than the optimal value, and by the end of the winding, on the contrary, it is slightly less. Thus, by maintaining the optimum vibration level, without overtightening the spring or allowing the spring to fully discharge, the wearer can maintain a high level of accuracy.
Tonneau - the shape of the watch case, resembling a barrel.
Tourbillon - a mechanism that compensates for the influence of the Earth's gravity on the accuracy of the clock. It is an anchor mechanism, placed inside a mobile platform with a balance in the center, and makes a full revolution around its own axis in one minute. Invented in 1795 by Abraham Louis Breguet.
The tourbillon consists of a balance, an anchor fork and an escape wheel, located on a special rotating platform - the carriage. The escape wheel trike rotates around the second wheel firmly attached to the plate, forcing the entire device to rotate around its axis. In this case, a wheel or a tribe is firmly fixed on the carriage, with the help of which energy is transferred from the spring to the balance, and the rotation of the carriage through the wheel drive turns into rotation of the arrows. Despite the fact that Breguet himself called a tourbillon only a structure in which the geometric centers of the carriage and the balance coincided, nowadays, structures in which the balance axis is shifted closer to the edge of the carriage are also called tourbillons.
Ear - The part of the watch case to which the bracelet or strap is attached.
Ultra-thin watch- watches with a movement thickness from 1.5 to 3.0 mm, allowing to minimize the thickness of the watch itself.
Equation of time - a clock mechanism that takes into account and shows the difference between the generally accepted time, which is shown by an ordinary clock and real solar time.
Oyster - one of the most famous Rolex models, as well as the patented method of double sealing of the watch mechanism, protecting it from external influences.
Latch - A lever with a rear part that retains the wheel teeth under the action of a spring.
Hezalite (plexiglass, acrylic glass)- This is a light transparent plastic that has the ability to bend when struck; if it beats, then it does not fall to pieces. It is also resistant to temperature fluctuations and high pressure. Therefore, hezalite is used in watches that require increased safety (for example, in some Omega models). In addition, hesalite is easy to polish to get rid of scratches. Vickers hardness - about 60 VH.
Chronometer - Highly accurate watch that has passed a series of accuracy tests and received the appropriate certificates. Chronometers are only a few seconds in error per day when used in normal temperature ranges.
Chronograph - clock with two independent measuring systems: one shows the current time, the other measures short periods of time. The counter registers seconds, minutes and hours and can be turned on or off at will. The central second hand of such a watch is usually used as the second hand of a stopwatch.
Collet - A small cylinder attached to the pendulum support.
Clock face - Dials are very different in shape, design, material, etc. Dials show information by means of numbers, divisions or various symbols. Jumping dials are equipped with apertures in which hours, minutes and seconds appear.
Digital display - Display showing the time in the form of numbers (numbers).
Balance oscillation frequency - Determined by the number of vibrations of the balance wheel per hour. The balance of a mechanical watch is usually 5 or 6 vibrations per second (i.e. 18,000 or 21,600 per hour). In high-frequency watches, the balance does 7, 8, or even 10 vibrations per second (i.e. 25,200, 28,800, or 36,000 per hour).
Striking clock- Sonnerie (French Sonnerie). The Petite Sonnerie or English combat system is a two-voice combat mechanism that strikes a quarter of an hour. Grande Sonnerie is a clock that strikes an hour and a quarter of an hour at every quarter of an hour.
Electro-luminescent backlight - With an electroluminescent panel that illuminates the entire dial, data is easy to read. It is characterized by a switch-off delay function, thanks to which the electroluminescent backlight remains on for a few seconds after the light button is released.
The electronic unit - generates control pulses of a stepper motor in a quartz watch. The electronic unit consists of a crystal oscillator, a frequency divider and a pulse shaper.
COSC - an abbreviation of the name of the Swiss Bureau of Chronometer Control - "Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres". The COSC is a government non-profit organization whose goal is to test the movements of watchmakers for accuracy in accordance with strict criteria. A chronometer certificate is issued for each movement that has passed the test. COSC has three laboratories in Biel, Geneva and Le Locle.
Cotes-de-Geneve (Geneva waves) - represent a wavy pattern on the watch, made by a cutter (usually applied to the automatic watch rotor).
Dual Time (function) - complex watch mechanics (two dials in one watch), designed to determine the local time and time anywhere in the world.
Swiss Made (stamp) - located at the bottom of the dial under the six o'clock position, assigned by the Swiss Watch Federation if the following conditions are met:
- 50% of all components are made in Switzerland
- 50% of all technological processes (including assembly and testing) are carried out in Switzerland
Nivarox - alloy for the manufacture of spirals of hour balances. It has the property of temperature self-compensation, it is very wear-resistant and does not corrode.
Nivaflex- alloy for the manufacture of winding springs. It has the property of maintaining constant elasticity for decades.
Watch Winder (Watch-Winder) is a self-winding watch case that combines a self-winding mechanism and a watch box.
Auto-quartz watch Quartz watch that does not require battery replacement. The most accurate of the electrical ones (the error is no more than 1-2 minutes per year), such a clock is powered by a battery charged by a heavy pendulum. The device is similar to the winding rotor of a mechanical watch and is set in motion by the swings made by the wearer's hand while the watch is on the wrist. Automatic watch Watch equipped with a self-winding mechanism. Self-winding A mechanism that replenishes the energy of the mainspring by absorbing energy from the wrist movement. Although the device does not completely eliminate the need for winding, it makes this procedure not so frequent and regular. For the first time a heavy pendulum was used in a clock by A.-L. Pearl in 1770. Alli A special type of alloy used for the manufacture of watch cases. Altimeter A device for determining the height above sea level by measuring atmospheric pressure. Swiss craftsmen were the first to discover the effect of changes in air pressure on the speed of oscillation of balance and pendulums. With an increase in altitude, the pressure and air resistance decrease, and, therefore, the frequency of oscillations increases. On average, watches located at an altitude of 500 m are ahead of those operating at normal pressure by 0.8 seconds per day. Shock Absorber A device mainly used in watches to protect the balance axis from accidental shock and shock. Amplitude The maximum deflection angle of the pendulum, calculated from the initial position. Analog clock A retronym, introduced with the advent of electronic clocks, as an opposition. A watch with a mechanical dial, which uses several hands to display the time (although there are variants with rotating discs, drums, etc.). Does not depend on the principle of the clockwork. Angrenage The basic element of the clockwork system. Consists of interlocking cogwheels with pinion wheels having twenty or fewer teeth. Anchoring mechanism A device representing the articulation of a double swingarm (balance), wheel and fork. Designed to convert the energy of the mainspring into separate impulses imparted to the balance. It, in turn, sets a certain period of oscillation necessary for the rotation of all parts of the clockwork. Anchor escapement A type of escapement in which the energy of the mainspring is transmitted by sliding along the inclined plane of the pallet, which is associated with significant friction and requires the use of a special lubricant in the mechanism, which must be regularly renewed. Anti-corrosion coating Oxidation-resistant alloy, sprayed on the surface of the case, bracelet and other watch parts. Anti-magnetic property The ability of a metal or alloy to resist the action of magnetic fields. In modern watches, it is used to shield the movement and protect it from weak magnetic fields that can affect the accuracy of the movement. Any electrical device - refrigerator, stereo system, TV - is a strong source of magnetic field. Anti-magnetic watch A watch with a case made of materials with anti-magnetic properties. Aperture A hole in the dial for displaying the dial indicators. Used to display all possible data - from hour, day and month, to the phase of the moon. Astronomical clock A clock that displays, in addition to time, additional astronomical data - the time of sunrise and sunset, the phases of the moon, the movement of constellations, and the like. Atmosphere A unit of measurement representing the pressure exerted by the Earth's atmosphere at the level of the World Ocean. Baguette 1. One way to cut gemstones to shape them into a regular rectangle.
2. Clockwork of the same shape. As a rule, it is located horizontally in the clock. Balance A movement system consisting of a rim, a crossbar, a double roller with an impulse stone and a coil spring. Designed to create balancing vibrations that regulate the movement of the mechanism wheels. Barometer A device for measuring atmospheric pressure. Invented by the Italian physicist E. Torricelli. Battery Power source, most often based on electrochemical reactions. Used in the industry as a power source in quartz watches. Bezel Safety ring around the watch glass. Bicolor Manufacturing of watch case and bracelet in two colors, usually using two different metals. Used to create aesthetic contrast. Bimetallic Made of two metals. The term is applied to a watch with a case, bezel and bracelet made of two metals. The most common variant of bimetallic watches is the contrast between gold and silver. Alarm clock A clock, including a wrist one, with a built-in striking mechanism. Perpetual calendar A device for counting years that does not require correction for leap years and short months. Almost all watches with a perpetual calendar created today are created taking into account the years up to 2100 inclusive. Vibrograph Same as oscilloscope... Viscometer A device for determining the nominal viscosity of liquids. It is used to determine the concentration of watch grease. Water resistance (water resistance) The characteristic and ability of the watch to resist moisture. In watchmaking, it is most often expressed in WR (water resistance), measured in meters, or ATM (atmosphere), measured in bars. 1 ATM corresponds to 10 meters. The waterproof case reliably protects the movement from moisture, dust and dirt, allowing it to remain clean for a long time. These values \u200b\u200bwere obtained in laboratory conditions and do not fully correspond to the actual indicators of water resistance. Waves A decorative element in the form of wavy lines. Often found as a detail on the case, bracelet and dial of a watch. A hair The same as spiral Second time zone An option that allows you to see the time in two time zones at once. Most often, it is set to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) in order to easily calculate time in other time zones (GMT + 3, GMT-8, etc.), but it can also be set to a specific zone. There are models not only with one, but also with two or more additional hands and dials to indicate the time in different time zones. Evacuation Fine adjustment of the balance position in the watch movement. Guilloché Derived from the French guilloché. A decorative engraving technique in which highly complex repeating patterns are applied to the surface of a substrate using a mechanical device that provides greater precision. For the first time such a machine was designed by the French engineer Guillot. The apparatus was driven by human mechanical efforts and made it possible to carve at precisely specified intervals. In the watch industry, the guilloche technique is often used to decorate dials. Gnomon Obelisk that cast a shadow on a scale drawn on the ground. One of the first examples of sundials that allowed time to be determined by the length of the shadow. Also, the name of the vertical time scale. Yearly calendar A calendar built into the watch, usually displaying the day, month, and year. Requires adjustment only in February of leap years. Garnet A group of minerals that are isomorphic mixtures of metals. Most often, garnet is understood as transparent stones of almandines and pyropes. Impurities of iron, calcium, chromium oxide and manganese give them shades from pale red to maroon. The mineral is used to make watch parts. However, being a medium hard mineral, it is not as popular as the ruby \u200b\u200bused by most eminent craftsmen. Two-color watch Same as bicolor Display Indicator for displaying various clock readings. It can be either analog or electronic. Jacquemarts From the French jaquemarts, moving figures of animals or people imitating the beating of time in an alarm clock. Geneva waves One of the most beautiful and well-known types of "waves" decorative element (see waves). This decorative design of the movement or dial is one of the hallmarks of Haute Horlogerie watches. Watch winding The process of winding the mainspring in a watch. There are two traditional ways to do it - manually and automatically. During manual cocking, a key or crown is used. The automatic winding is carried out using a heavy pendulum that converts energy from the movement of the wrist. Crown A must-have element of a mechanical watch these days. It is used for winding, correcting readings and changing modes in mechanical watches. The quartz movement has the same purpose, except for the winding function. Power reserve The duration of the movement without additional winding of the main spring. The average for a quality Swiss watch is 36 to 42 hours. Gold A precious metal used both in jewelry and watchmaking. The main purpose is to decorate the case and bracelet. In alloys with other metals, it changes color in a wide range: from white to deep yellow, from pale pink to red, from light green to dark turquoise, and so on. In its pure form, the color is bright yellow. Gear train A common structural element. In mechanical watches, it is used to supply energy to the oscillator, counting oscillations, and more. In quartz - for connecting the stepper motor with disc indicators and arrows. Impulse Stone Detail of a clock mechanism. Represents a cylindrical pin that looks like a truncated ellipse when sliced. It sits on a double balance roller and interacts between the balance and the truss fork. Power reserve indicator A complex watch element. As a rule, it looks like a curved scale, which allows you to estimate the degree of winding of the main spring and determine the time remaining before the clock stops. The data is displayed either in exact units - hours and minutes, or in conventional units - half, quarter, third. The lunar phase indicator It is represented by an additional dial or an aperture and a disk reflecting 29.5 days and the phases of the moon in the form of pictures. Increasing complexity allows you to estimate the current phase of the moon. Self-winding inertial sector A detail of the watch mechanism made in the form of a heavy metal half-disk. Rotating freely around the central axis, the inertial sector uses the rotational force to replenish the energy of the main spring. It can move both clockwise and counterclockwise. Moves thanks to the swings made by the wearer's hand while walking. Cabochon A hemispherical cut of a gemstone. Stones of this shape are often used to decorate the crown and bracelet lugs. Calendar A mechanism for keeping track of the date in hours. There are many options, ranging from the simplest, displaying only the current date in apertures, to complex multi-disc designs that can display the day of the week, month and year. Most calendars need to be reconfigured by February every year. However, there are so-called perpetual calendars (see perpetual calendar), which are able to indicate exact dates in a regular and leap year without additional readjustment. Caliber A term used to designate a model of a movement by type and size. Initially, the caliber number meant the largest overall size of the movement, however, recently there are more and more samples where numbers and letters serve only to designate a particular model. Stone A watch piece made of synthetic or natural gemstones - sapphire, ruby, garnet. Similar parts are used in a watch movement to reduce friction between metal assemblies. Thanks to the use of stones, the mechanism lasts much longer and does not wear out for a long time. Carat 1. A unit of measurement that characterizes the ratio of the mass of gold in the alloy to the total. One carat is equal to 1/24 of the mass, respectively, pure metal is 24 carats. If we talk about the ratio of carats to the more common metric system in the territory of the former USSR, which characterizes the gold content in an alloy weighing 1000 grams, it will be as follows: 23 carats correspond to the 958th fineness, 21 carats - 875, 18 carats - 750 and 14 carats are identical to 583 th sample. The guarantee of the carat, like the sample, is the stamp displayed on the manufactured item.
2. A measure of mass measurement in jewelry. Equal to the weight of a dried pomegranate seed, which is 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams. Quartz watch A watch that uses an electronic oscillator controlled by a quartz crystal as a timing element. The crystal oscillator sets a frequency signal of very high precision, after which, using a logic gate or circuit, the signal is converted into a numerical form, usually represented by hours, minutes and seconds. Quartz watches can be analog - showing the time using hands and dials, and electronic - with a liquid crystal or LED display. Clip Composite metal clasp. Often used in bracelets and watch straps. Coaxial arrangement of elements Arrangement of parts on one axis of rotation. The clockwork has a huge number of parts arranged in this way. A striking example is the coaxial arrangement of the hour, minute and second hands in their classic form. Coaxial escapement Introduced in 1999 and patented by OMEGA, a member of the Swatch Group, this escapement is actually the only alternative to the escapement today (see escapement). Coaxial escapement uses a radial transmission of impulse, as opposed to anchor slip. This significantly reduces friction, increases the durability of the watch, and also reduces the need for lubrication of the movement .. Compensation, temperature Protection of the movement from external temperatures. Their difference can have a significant impact on the accuracy of the course. It has not yet been possible to completely eliminate this kind of influence, but research is ongoing. The main method of temperature compensation currently used is the selection of materials for the main parts. Crown Same as the crown. The watch case serves to protect the mechanism from adverse factors. In the manufacture of watch cases, metals or their alloys are most often used. Often, the main, supporting, solid metal frame is covered with a noble metal - silver, gold, platinum. Less commonly, metal ceramics, metal carbides, natural stone, sapphire crystals, plastic, rubber and even wood are used for the manufacture of cases. Line A unit of measurement for the dimensions of the movement. Corresponds to 2.255 mm. Luminescent coating Application of substances with luminescence properties on the dial and hands of watches - the ability to emit visible light due to their fluorescent, phosphorescent or radioluminescent properties. The most common are light-accumulating coatings that require preliminary exposure to bright light and are self-luminous, containing tiny admixtures of radioactive isotopes. Luminescent coatings of any kind are absolutely safe for the health of the wearer. Maltese Cross Detail of the clockwork. Used to limit the tension force of the main spring. The part gets its name from its similarity in shape to the Maltese Cross. Also, the Maltese cross is the emblem of the Vacheron Constantin manufactory. Instant daily rate This is the name of the clock rate, derived when testing their mechanism on one of the devices for checking the daily rate. Marine chronometer A special watch adapted for accurate movement in the open sea. To maintain stability of vibrations during roll and to reduce the influence of gravity on accuracy, the chronometer uses a second balance, positioned in such a way that both balances vibrate in the same plane, but in opposite directions. In addition, the watch is located on a movable support, which allows the watch to always be in a horizontal position. Also, the marine chronometer is the name of the series of Ulysse Nardin and Breguet watches, which are distinguished by increased accuracy and use a number of solutions from navigational marine chronometers. Bridge Shaped element of the clock mechanism. Serves as a support for the axes of the gears. The name of the gear gives the name to its bridge. Oscilloscope A device used to record the frequency and amplitude of oscillations in mechanisms. Since 1933 it has been used in watchmaking to determine the quality of movement. Long-term research allows you to determine the defects in the mechanism, the uneven stroke of the mainspring in a given period, the balance of the pendulums, etc. Palladium A metal of the platinum group characterized by a white color. Pure palladium and its alloys are often used in watchmaking. Cloisonné enamel A decorative technique used in the manufacture of dials. It consists in cutting a pattern or drawing on the surface of the dial, into the grooves of which a thin wire is then placed. After that, the entire structure is filled with enamel - often of various colors - after which it is fired and polished to a shine. Balance Swing Period The time during which a full swing occurs. It is calculated as the period during which the balance deviates from the equilibrium position in one direction, after which it comes back and, having passed the equilibrium position, makes the same move in the other direction, after which it returns to the initial position. Platinum The main supporting part of the frame, usually the largest. Serves as the basis for attaching bridges, as well as supports for clock gears, called wheels. The shape and size of the platinum determines the caliber of the movement. Fineness A measure of the proportion of a precious metal in relation to the total weight of the alloy. Also, the test is a special stamp, put on products made of precious metals and testifying to this share. The duration of the course Also - the autonomy of the watch. The time interval of the watch movement from the full winding of the spring to the complete stop of the watch. Shockproof device A mechanism for protecting the watch from impulse damage. Represents a movable joint of supports, which are adjacent to thin sections of the axis. The design was created in such a way that allows the balance axis to move up or sideways with various types of impacts. At such moments, it hits the restraints with its more massive parts, thereby protecting the more fragile ones from breakages and bends. Buckle One of the most common types of watch strap buckle. Heart rate monitor A device designed to measure the number of vibrations per minute, most often to determine the heart rate. To measure the heart rate, it is enough to determine the interval during which the number of beats was recorded - the second hand of the drive will immediately show the heart rate value on the heart rate scale. A fairly common complication in sports watch models. Rant Same as bezel Regulator Arrangement of the clock hands. To increase the accuracy of the readings, each of them is located on a separate dial. Strap For attaching the watch to your wrist. Unlike bracelets, straps are made of leather, plastic, or rubber. Repair A part of the mechanism, consisting of elements for translating the arrows and winding the main spring. Includes crown, winding shaft, winding tribe, claw clutch, and winding and drum wheel. Repassage Complete enumeration of the watch mechanism. It is performed for preventive purposes. Repeater A complication of a watch designed to measure specific intervals of time with beats of different keys. As a rule, this function is regulated by a separate button and allows you to beat the hours, fractions of an hour and minutes. Retrograde An arrow moving in an arc. When it reaches the limit value, it goes back to zero. Often used in various mechanical watch complications. Rhodium Belonging to the platinum group, it is a hard, silvery-white metal. It is used as a coating material in the manufacture of dials and movement parts. Rotor Same as inertial winding sector Stepper motor rotor Detail of a quartz watch movement. Serves as a regulator to create strictly periodic oscillations. The main element that allows you to count the seconds. Ruby A gemstone that is a type of corundum, trigonal system of the oxide class. Natural rubies are often used to decorate jewelry watches, while artificially grown rubies are used to produce stones and watch mechanism supports. Second is one of the main units of time. Initially, it was equal to 1/86000 of the period of full rotation of the Earth around its axis - a solar day. However, after the appearance of the atomic clock, it was established that the rotation of the Earth is accompanied by infinitely small periods of acceleration and deceleration, and, therefore, a solar day cannot be considered an exact value. At the 13th General Conference of Weights and Measures, held in 1967, the standard was changed. It was decided to consider as a second a period of time, calculated as 9192631770 periods of radiation of the cesium-133 atom, fixed at the moment of transition between two stable levels. Silver White precious metal. It is often used in the form of an alloy or a coating in the manufacture of watch cases and bracelets. Skeleton A watch that lacks a dial for aesthetic purposes and has a transparent case back. The design allows you to enjoy the view of the working mechanism. Details of such watches are polished to a shine, decorated with graceful engravings, precious metals and stones. Complex mechanical function A complication, an addition to the main mechanism of the watch to perform new functions. The most famous complications are the chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phase and tourbillon. Contrary to the widespread misconception, it is watches with complications, not jewelry ones, that are the most expensive and prestigious. Sonnerie The English combat system, also known as the Petite Sonnerie, is a two-voice mechanism that hits a quarter of every hour. Grande Sonnerie beats an hour every quarter. Spiral A thin spirally wound spring. Its inner end is located on the balance axis, and the outer end is on the block. The balance spiral usually has 11-13 turns. Breguet Spiral Hair with curved inner and outer ends. Due to this, the period of oscillations of the system does not change depending on the amplitude of oscillations, keeping the isochronism of the system. The invention belongs to the master Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of Breguet. Split Chronograph A complication consisting of a two-hand stopwatch with an intermediate finish function. It is identical in function to the sports one and allows you to measure several periods of time. Greenwich Mean Time Also known as GMT, refers to the time at the prime meridian, where the famous observatory of the United Kingdom is located. The abbreviation GMT appears on watches with an additional time zone. Average daily rate The concept implies the algebraic sum of daily rates divided by the total number of days during which they were measured. The result of the formula is the same daily average. Steel A rich iron-carbon alloy. The most common material in the manufacture of various parts of the watch case and movement. Most often stainless steel is used. Watch glass Transparent coating of the watch face, which protects the dial and movement from damage and does not interfere with the free observation of time. Most often it is made of mineral glass, less often - of sapphire crystals or plastic. Counter Sub-dial, often found in chronographs. Countdown timer A device designed to count backwards at a predetermined interval. Tachymeter Sometimes we mistakenly call it a "tachometer". Complication of the watch for measuring the speed of movement. Most chronographs are equipped with a special tachymeter scale, most often located along the bezel. It is standardized for a 1 km segment and is divided into sectors corresponding to different speeds. For example, when driving a car, the owner of the watch only needs to note the time it takes to drive a kilometer. Knowing him, with the help of the scale he can easily determine his average speed. Thermometer A device that measures the temperature of the medium with which it comes into contact. Some sports and touring watches are equipped with a built-in thermometer. Titanium Lightweight and durable silver gray metal. Differs in refractoriness and chemical resistance. In the watch industry, it is mainly used for the manufacture of cases and bracelets. Tonneau or Tonneau The name of the watch case, its shape resembles a barrel. Tourbillon A complication of the watch mechanism, which is a dynamic structure designed to compensate for the forces of gravity acting on the watch mechanism. Designed by Abraham Louis Breguet, the device is a slowly rotating system of flywheel, lever and escape wheel. It is a particularly complex function that significantly affects the cost of a watch. Ultra-thin watch Watch less than 3 mm thick. Equation of time Complication of the mechanism, a device that measures and displays not only ordinary, but also real solar time. Oyster The name of one of the most famous Rolex models. Also the name of their signature double sealed mechanism. Eyelet Place where the bracelet or strap is attached to the case. Chronograph A watch with independent systems for timing and recording short periods. The counter can record seconds, minutes or hours. If there is only one dial, the central second hand performs the function of the stopwatch hand. Longer lengths are usually measured with sub-dials. Chronometer A high-precision watch certified by the Swiss Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, which tests movements in accordance with C.O.S.C. Digital watch Quartz watch with time indicator on liquid crystals or LEDs. Time zone The name of a geographic area with the same civil time over its entire area. As a rule, these are stripes with a length of 15 degrees of longitude. They are located
A wrist watch is a device worn on the wrist that displays the current time; some models provide a calendar, barometer, pedometer, compass.
According to the principle of action, they are divided into:
- mechanical,
- electronic,
- quartz.
Types and types of watches
The first criterion when choosing a watch is the type of movement.
Quartz (electromechanical)
The movement is based on quartz - quartz sets the step frequency of the stepper micromotor, which drives the arrows. It is mainly used for the manufacture of women's products, as they are small and there is no room for the mechanism.
They are accurate and characterized by a democratic price. There are also expensive quartz models made of precious metals. The peculiarity is that they do not need to be started, it is enough to change the battery every two to three years.
Electronic
This is a kind of quartz movement, that is, the heart of the models is quartz, but unlike quartz watches, the step frequency is set not by the stepping motor, but by the generator that sends signals to the microprocessor. The main difference is the digital display, where time and other indicators of additional functions are highlighted on the display.
Electronic watches are popular - they are inexpensive and show the exact time. There are models in which the time is indicated by “hands” (electronic dial).
Mechanical
Mechanical models - the mechanism works on the principle of a gearbox. The watch is driven by the compression of the spring and its gradual deployment. As it unwinds, the spring drives the gears, the time accuracy and service life depend on the material used in the manufacture of gears, and the crystals on which they are fixed (stones).
In elite watches, the documentation indicates the number of stones in the movement, precious stones are used, in budget models, artificial material is used.
The product is started with a head located on the body. Mechanical watches do not need to change any power sources.
The service life reaches 50 years. It is enough to start them at the right time.
Wristwatch characteristics
Anti-glare glass
Anti-reflective glass enhances the visual perception of the dial or electronic display. Ordinary glass reflects light and creates glare. The anti-reflective coating solves this problem - it is a durable product that will take a lot of effort to break.
In budget models, the glass is covered with a film with an anti-glare function. The disadvantage is that the coating fades over time.
Water tightness and tightness classes
Resistance to moisture and dirt is provided by the tightness of the accessory. The accessory is waterproof due to rubber seals, over time (3-4 g) they dry out and need to be replaced. Moisture and dirt do not get into such products, which increases the service life of the mechanism and its accuracy.
Moisture resistance is usually accompanied by the impact resistance of the glass and case.
And in simple classic accessories, this characteristic is not uncommon. Their tightness class is lower, but sufficient for everyday wear.
The water resistance indicators of the models are displayed on the case back or at the bottom of the dial.
They are measured in atmospheres (ATM), which is not equivalent to immersion meters:
There are five classes of water resistance:
- Class 1 - the product simply indicates that they are water resistant without indicating atmospheres and meters - the internal elements are equipped with seals, but are not sufficiently protected from moisture penetration. The mechanism is protected from dust, moisture and dirt, but not intended for swimming, diving, bathing in the shower or bath, accidental falling into the water - in such models, you can gently wash your hands.
- Class 2 - 3 atm (30 m). It is allowed to wash your hands in the product and be exposed to rain. However, you cannot swim and bathe in the shower.
- Class 3 - 5 atm (50 m). The 3rd class can withstand immersion in water to a depth of 30 cm. After bathing in salt sea water, the product must be rinsed with fresh water and dried, but not on a heater, but naturally. You cannot dive in such models.
- Class 4 - 10 atm (100 m). The device is designed for those who like snorkelling. Scuba diving is not recommended.
- Class 5 - 20, 30 atm (200-300 m). Designed for divers. They are able to withstand water pressure for 3 hours. The case is shock-resistant, the mechanism is protected from penetration of dirt and moisture.
Energy source
Applicable types of power supplies:
- Batteries;
- Solar panels;
- Kinetic rotor charging battery built into quartz movement;
- Mechanical spring winding, self-winding or not.
Batteries for quartz accessories are changed every 2-3 years. Solar panels last a long time as they get their energy from daylight.
Accumulators (kinetic-rotor) - the principle of operation is similar to the automatic winding in a mechanical watch, but rotating, the rotor does not charge the mechanical spring, but generates electricity by recharging the battery.
Mechanical accessories receive energy from the spring winding by means of a head. It is located at the end of the case. Many models are self-winding, that is, the movement is wound by hand movement.
Total weight of precious metal
It is not uncommon for consumers to believe that gilded items should be accompanied by an indicator of the total weight of gold. However, this is not quite true.
Do not confuse watches made of solid gold and with gilding. Gold plated or silver plated models do not include the total weight of the precious metal.
Gilding is applied to the body of the product by electroplating, that is, gold, silver or platinum is present partially in the form of sputtering. In this case, the manufacturer indicates the thickness of the spray and the sample in the documentation, but these indicators are not always indicated - it depends on the manufacturer.
Accessories made of solid gold, silver or platinum are accompanied by brands from the manufacturer and the institution that accepted the goods at customs if they were imported from another country. The manufacturer indicates the total weight of the precious metal, excluding precious stones.
Shockproof
Impact resistance means protection of the main elements of the mechanism from shock during / after impact.
The presence of shock resistance is indicated by the manufacturer on the cover and in the accompanying documentation. The protection of the movement includes the type of glass and the material of the case - mineral glass, sapphire, plastic or titanium.
Skeleton
Skeleton is a design solution that is typical only for mechanical models. However, there are also quartz models with a transparent case. But they don't look so impressive.
The owner can see the working gears, the mechanism structure is visible. The elements of the mechanism are often decorated with precious stones and ornaments.
When choosing skeletons, you should pay attention to the type of glass and impact resistance. These factors affect the life of the product and its safety. Sapphire crystal is not scratched and stays “clean” for a long time. For a skeleton, this is a must, since a scratched glass will ruin the overall appearance.
Time display method
Display methods:
- Analog - arrows;
- Digital;
- Combined;
- Binary.
Analog Is the classic display method. It is characteristic of mechanical watches, as well as quartz ones. Expensive models are often produced with an analog version.
Digital - typical only for electronic. These are inexpensive models and are often accompanied by additional functions.
Combined - assumes both analog and digital display. It is typical for quartz watches.
Binary - hours and minutes are displayed in the form of luminous dots, sticks or geometric shapes for each hour a certain color is assigned - suitable for puzzle lovers.
Glass - type and strength
Applicable types of glass:
- Plastic glass;
- Sapphire;
- Mineral.
Plastic - a common and inexpensive option. In the manufacture of watches, plastic is used, the type of which depends on the purpose - plastic with a high degree of shock resistance is used for sports and children's models, organic glass is used in budget models.
Sapphire crystal - made of artificially grown crystal. Only a diamond will scratch the sapphire crystal. The increased resistance to mechanical damage does not mean that it will withstand any stress. Sapphire crystal is usually inserted into the case of expensive models.
Mineral glass - popular in watchmaking. It is a durable material that resists scratches with a high degree of impact resistance. The accessory with mineral glass is not inferior to models with sapphire material.
Reliable and practical glass shape - flat, not convex. Such glass is easy to change, it resists external influences better.
Accuracy
The accuracy of the course means an error per day or month. There are approved accuracy standards for mechanical and quartz watches.
For mechanical models, the error is ± 40/60 sec. per day. If the error is outside the established limits, you should contact the wizard to adjust the accuracy.
Quartz - error ± 20 sec. per month and are considered one of the most accurate, applies to electronic models.
The manufacturer indicates the model error in the product documentation, it is easy to check it yourself, for example, synchronize the clock with the exact time site and track deviations.
Chronometer
The word "chronometer" is used as a synonym for the term "watch", but a "chronometer" is a product with a high accuracy of movement, an error of ± 3 sec / day.
Clock face
There are 3 types of dials used:
- turnout;
- combined (mixed);
- digital;
and four types of markup:
- arab
- roman
- combined (mixed)
- tags
Sometimes manufacturers instead of classical Arabic or Roman numerals embed different creative images into the dial.
The combined dial is used in quartz models - there are classic hands and an electronic digital display.
Tags are used in mechanical and quartz models - in the form of sticks, dots without indicating the digital values \u200b\u200bof the hour or minutes.
In mechanical and quartz watches, depending on the manufacturer and model, additional dials are built in up to 3 pcs. for different time zones - so when traveling to another country or region, the user does not have to rebuild the time.
Second hand
The seconds indicator is located either on the main dial, or on a separate one. The hand is built into both mechanical and quartz models. In electronic accessories, seconds are displayed in numbers.
Wristwatch functions
Self-winding
With its help, you do not have to constantly wind up the mechanism with the head. The accessory is wound automatically by the movement of the hand by the kinetic rotor.
Disadvantages - bulkiness of the product. The self-winding movement is a complex movement that takes up a lot of space in the case. Its presence automatically makes the frame thicker and heavier.
The minus has an undesirable effect on women's accessories, for this reason, manufacturers do not make mechanical self-winding models for women.
GPS
The GPS system is built into modern watch models. She tracks the location, builds routes, memorizes the route to follow.
Detailed atlases are loaded into the wrist gadget. The display shows a map with latitude and longitude indicators, arrows indicate the path, color resolution limited to 100 dpi.
Accessories are divided into categories:
- Children's watch-trackers with a navigator;
- GPS sports watch;
- GPS and compass;
Alarm and vibration
The alarm clock in a mechanical watch is a vibrator - it works from a separate cocking drum, as a result of which the models are bulky and heavy, in quartz models they use a piezo speaker - a squeaker. In electronic models, the alarm clock works as in quartz.
Android-based electronic products are inextricably linked to the smartphone. A whole system has been developed here for lifting a person in the morning. The device calculates the phases of sleep and wakes up when it is easier for a person to wake up.
The whole science of sleep is put into wrist alarms based on Android. The accessory tactfully awakens by vibration. If a person does not wake up, a melody begins to sound.
The vibration signal function is confused with an alarm clock. Although, in fact, the characteristics are similar. The vibration alert is a function in the watch for those who need to do something during the day at a given time. For example: athletes who have the entire regimen scheduled by the minute up to eating.
A vibration signal is configured according to the principle of setting an alarm. The signal is triggered at the specified time. The vibration intensity varies depending on the model. This function is used as an alarm clock. But keep in mind that the vibration signal is lower in intensity than sounds.
Perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator
The function appeared after the possibility of displaying the date in a wristwatch, based on the Gregorian or Hebrew calendars - solar and lunar. The watch displays information about leap years, quarters, the number of days in a month.
Together with the chronology, the lunar calendar is built into the mechanism - it indicates in what phase the Earth's satellite is.
Built-in memory
It is used to store and transfer a small amount of information - it works on the principle of a flash drive, but in the form of a clock. The mechanism is equipped with a mini-USB port at the end of the case.
Often, watches with GPS are equipped with built-in flash memory of 64, 128, 256 and 512 MB. When connected to a PC, it is defined as a standard flash drive, that is, no driver installation is required.
Second time zone
In watches with a second time zone, the standard is the dial, hands, additional functions. However, a scale is applied to the bezel, or a place free from the dial. It shows the main cities in different time zones.
By simply pressing the button (electronic) or turning the rotary ring (mechanical), which is located on the case, instantly determine the time in a different time zone.
Instead of the names of cities, numbers are put down - designations of time in different parts of the world according to Greenwich. The display and operation of the additional scale varies. The principle of operation of the second time zone by the manufacturer is described in the instructions for the product.
The scale of the second time zone does not affect the accuracy - it is an independent mechanism.
Altimeter
The function is designed and based on the measurement of atmospheric pressure. Taking into account the fact that in one place the pressure fluctuates, the altimeter readings are displayed with a small error - ± 2-3 m, the function is inextricably linked with the barometer readings.
Pay attention to the type of altimeter - barometric or satellite - is less common, since such models are expensive. Barometric altimeters are more reliable.
Depth gauge
Applicable types of depth gauges:
- Depth gauges operating according to the Boyle-Mariotte law - capillary and piston;
- Mechanisms operating on the principle of the Bourdon tube;
- Membrane;
- Diaphragm;
- Strain gages.
A membrane depth gauge is considered reliable and accurate. In the first two types of mechanism, the visibility of the indicators in the devices is minimal, and in conditions of poor visibility, it is difficult to understand the measurements.
Strain gauge depth gauges have appeared relatively recently and have not yet established themselves as the most reliable. However, already today they are characterized by good accuracy of readings.
Notebook
It is not uncommon for consumers to confuse the "Address Book" function with the "Telephone Directory".
The first one contains much more information, but the amount of shared memory depends on the model and its content. A notebook is required to back up data: passwords, phone numbers.
Models with this feature vary - they are models with a built-in keyboard on the dial or with a slide-out keyboard (Android-based models have a touch keyboard). The main indicator when choosing an accessory with a notebook is the size of the memory. All information in it is password protected.
It should be borne in mind that any additional characteristic increases the size of the watch case and weight.
Power reserve indicator
The power reserve indicator is equipped with mechanical watches, with and without automatic winding - made in the form of a scale divided into time intervals.
The display of indicators on the dial varies depending on the model and manufacturer.
The function is built into the model, the platoon of which lasts from 3 to 10 days. That is, there are no restrictions on the type of mechanical device. If you constantly forget about the winding, the power reserve indicator will become an irreplaceable assistant in this matter.
Compass
The built-in compass is just as accurate as the classic version. The module is built either into the case or separately on a belt. The latter method is typical for mechanical models.
There are compasses that work according to the classical principle - magnetic, and electronic ones - they are built into models with GPS - the route indicated by the navigator is displayed using compass indicators, the route is indicated by arrows, and a compass is displayed next to it. It is convenient when hiking - you know where to go and where you are.
The indicator readings are visible in the dark thanks to the LED backlight.
Illumination of the display and arrows
The dial and hands are illuminated according to the type of light element:
- Electroluminescent;
- LED;
- Light accumulative;
- Tritium based.
Electroluminescent - activated by an additional button built into the body. When pressed, the display lights up for a few seconds. The disadvantage of such a backlight is a quick failure of the display.
LED - these are LEDs built into the dial. They provide good illumination, come into action when an additional button is pressed, or equip accessories with automatic LED lighting. It is activated as soon as the lighting becomes insufficient for a comfortable viewing of the display.
Light accumulative - the composition is applied to the hands and indicators of the dial - zinc sulfide or strontium aluminate (characterized by a long service life). The accumulative backlight needs recharging from the light source.
Tritium backlight is a small flask filled with gas, which is based on tritium. This chemical element emits radiation, but in doses that are safe for humans. Moreover, radiation is completely absorbed by the glass of the case, which is absolutely safe.
The backlight service life is up to 25 years. The Tritium Light function does not have additional buttons and does not need charging.
If the function is always needed, then tritium-based illumination will be the best option.
Stopwatch and chronograph
These two functions are often equated, and words are used interchangeably. However, this is not quite true. The stopwatch is a module in which the second hand is linked to the main clockwork. That is, when you press the button that stops the second hand, the entire mechanism stops.
The dial designations of devices with a stopwatch are different, they do not look like the classic version.
A chronograph is a module independent of the main mechanism, with the help of which time intervals are counted and the results are recorded. To control the module, two or three buttons are built into the case, depending on the complexity of the indicator.
A chronograph is a must-have for people working in the following areas:
- Medicine;
- Sports;
- Military affairs;
- Aviation;
- The Navy;
- Science and research.
The mechanism is built from one to several hands - "split-chronographs". Due to this, measurements are made at once for two phenomena with different time intervals. Such a complex module is equipped with three control buttons on the body.
There are models in which for different spheres of activity, chronographs, put their own scale of measurements.
Tachymeter
On chronograph watches, the scale is built into the outer circle of the case and has the designations 60, 120. Also, on such products, “Tachymeter” will be marked.
To start the module, press the button. Once the movement is complete, the result is recorded with another button.
Additionally, it will be useful for measuring the distance between sound phenomena. For medical workers, the chronograph is marked with a scale for measuring pulse and pressure.
Heart rate monitor
The heart rate monitor monitors your heart rate.
The main advantages of the function:
- Counting the heart rate;
- Choose the optimal training mode based on the collected heart rate monitor data;
- Calculate the optimal time for heart rate recovery after exercise;
- Plan the optimal walking or running distance based on heart rate data.
The heart rate monitor will also be useful for the elderly with heart disease.
Radio sync
"Radio synchronization" is the correction of time indicators in wrist accessories based on data from an atomic clock.
It receives information through a built-in radio module from radio towers installed in different parts of the world (one tower is capable of transmitting a signal over a distance of up to 1,500 km). Module setting is one-time, then automatic adjustment is made.
Countdown timer
The device counts down the required number of minutes or hours set by the user - the function is similar to a stopwatch, but differs in that the countdown timer counts down the specified period of time.
Many watch models are equipped with several timers - the owner sets and configures time intervals with an alert about the end of each.
Thermometer
Special sensors are built into the watch, which determine the air temperature with a high degree of accuracy.
The module is activated using a button. By clicking on it, an indicator will be displayed on the dial in the allotted window.
Pedometer
Pedometer - displays the number of steps for a certain period of time: hour, day, week. In each watch model, the functionality of this option is significantly different, for example, the absence of saving the results in the form of a report.
First of all, you should decide on the type of mechanism. The type of energy source, battery or manual winding will depend on this. The accessory should be comfortable to use for you.
Do not forget that each additional characteristic affects the weight and size of the product. A sports watch with all possible modules is massive and heavy, an office version is light and small.
When choosing mechanical accessories, special attention is paid to protecting the case and the movement itself - shock resistance, water resistance and the type of glass. These parameters determine the service life.
Manufacturers
Adriatica
The Adriatica company offers a collection of classic and sports watches for women and men, the products are distributed by dealers around the world. Produces a series of collections:
- Precious
- Diving
- Twin motion
- Sophia
- Moonphase for her
- Essence
- Vintage
- Moonphase for him
- Pairs
- Aviation
- Portofino
- Passion
- Automatic
- Milano
The guarantee is provided all over the world, regardless of the place of purchase, after-sales service is guaranteed for 2 years.
Anne klein
The American brand Anne Klein has been producing women's watches since 1970, in the production of collections:
- Time to charme
- Crystal
- Diamond
including classic models for business women, elegant combinations with evening dresses, Ronda and Myota mechanisms are used to ensure reliable operation.
Calvin klein
The world-famous brand Calvin Klein, in addition to the production of clothing and jewelry, produces and sells for men / women, sports and youth collections of wrist watches.
Casio
Casio company with branches throughout Europe in cities such as Moscow, Brussels, Barcelona, \u200b\u200bLondon, Amstelveen - produces:
- electronic dictionaries;
- calculators;
- label printers;
- electronic musical instruments;
- digital cameras;
- portable terminals;
- cash registers;
- office computers;
- printers;
- wrist Watch.
collections of classic watches for men, women and in Retro style:
- G-SHOCK
- BABY-G
- EDIFICE
- SHEEN
- PRO TREK
- RADIO controlled
- CASIO Sports
Citizen
The Japanese company Citizen has been producing wristwatches since 1936, production is not limited to watches, the list of products includes parts for cars, electronic devices and components, as well as jewelry.
Diesel
The Italian company Diesel, without its own production, but under delusion, produces watches, shoes, clothes, jewelry, and perfume.
FOSSIL
The main direction of Fossil is the development and production of expensive watches and jewelry, but it also produces bags, sunglasses, belts. The first watch models were released in the USA in 1984. FOSSIL stands out from other brands with a large assortment of vintage models. For women it offers collections of watches in pink and gilded colors. Models in stainless steel and with leather straps are available for men and women, but watches with a chronometer are offered in the men's models.
Jacques lemans
Jacques Lemans for men, women customized collections for women
- Anna veith
- Kevin Costner
- Koko mitsua
- Giorgia gregorio
- Mohammed abu issuea
Orient
The Orient trademark offers consumers mechanical and quartz watches. The line of mechanical models includes automatic: classic, sports, diving, as well as pocket watches. In the line of quartz models, you will find models in the NEO style of the 70s, sporty, classic. Women's elegant models of quartz watches are gilded and inlaid with stones.
Romanson
The Swiss company Romanson, founded in 1988, organized a sales, global network in 70 countries around the world and was the first in the world to release a watch with faceted glass resembling a diamond cut.
Offers a series of collections:
- DEARBON
- PREMIER
- ACTIVE
- ELEVE
- CLASSIC
- MODERN
- SPORTS
- TROFISH
Seiko
The Japanese company Seiko, founded in 1881, produces watches, jewelry, electronic components and precision mechanics. A global network of companies located in Europe, Asia, USA and Japan.
Offers the consumer a collection:
- Grand seiko
- Astron
- Prospex
- Presage
- Premier
As soon as we want to know a little more about the subject of our hobby, watches, it is necessary to operate with basic definitions found in the watch literature. And if an inexperienced reader can easily imagine what a "case" or "transparent back cover" is, then the content of the inner filling of a watch, a clock mechanism, can confuse even a person who understands what is at stake. But nevertheless, he has little idea of \u200b\u200bhow it all works, at least in the first approximation. So, what does a watch movement consist of (of course, we will talk primarily about a mechanical watch) and what are its main components.
Platinum (English - Bottom plate; French - Platine (châssis du mouvement)) - the base of the clockwork on which its various parts are attached. It is equipped with a certain number of holes, some of which are designed for screws that fasten parts of the mechanism to the plate, and some for installing (pressing) stones. Each stone supports the lower pin of the pinion axle, which is located between the plate and the bridge.
Bridge (English - Bridge, French - Pont) - a part of the mechanism, screwed to the plate and serving as a support for attaching the upper trunnion of the axis of a gear wheel (several wheels) or a shaft. Typically, its name comes from the type of function it is used for, such as escapement bridge, balance bridge, barrel bridge, etc. In most cases, brass is used as a material for platinum and bridges, but nickel silver and even gold are often used. It is curious that the bridges, large in area, occupying a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe mechanism, are called three-quarter plates.
A rock (English - Jewel; French - Rubis) Is a hard synthetic material, a kind of corundum. Indispensable as a support for rotating elements of the mechanism, minimizing friction between parts. At the dawn of watchmaking, natural rubies were widely used for these purposes, but now they are completely replaced by artificial stones. At the same time, stones can either be cut entirely from a crystal or pressed from powder in a more budgetary version.
An important component to protect the balance axles and selected gears from deformation at the moment of shock loads is the damping system in the form of springs located over the stones. The most popular systems today are Incabloc, KIF Parechoc and their analogues.
Gear (English - Wheel, Toothed Wheel; French - Roue) Is a round-shaped component that rotates around its axis and serves to transfer energy. The gear wheel is equipped with a certain number of teeth designed to mesh with a pinion of an adjacent gear wheel. The bulk is made of brass.
Tribe (English - Pinion; French - Pignon) - watch piece, part of the wheel transmission. It consists of an axle, trunnions, a seat for a gear wheel and teeth ("leaves") of a tribe. The number of the latter can vary from 6 to 14 units. Material - hardened stainless steel.
Axle journal (English - Pivot; French - Pivot) - the end of the axis, located at the point of contact with the support (ruby stone). Carefully polished to reduce friction between mating surfaces. High-quality polishing of this element is a sign of the highest level of finishing of the movement.
Wheel transmission (English - Gear train; French - Engrenage) - a system of interconnected gears and tribes, serving to transmit the flow of energy. So, the main wheel drive transfers energy from the barrel through the escapement and the balance-spiral oscillating system. In the simplest case, it includes a barrel, a central tribe, a central wheel, a third wheel with a tribe, a fourth wheel with a tribe, and an escapement wheel.
Clockwork drum (English - Barrel; French - Barillet) - a hollow cylinder with a cover and a mainspring located inside, which is attached at one end to the outer part of the cylinder, and at the other end to the barrel shaft. The toothed part of the device is in engagement with the first pin of the main wheel drive. The barrel is characterized by a very slow rotation around its axis (a full revolution from 1/9 to 1/6 hour).
Trigger mechanism (English - Escapement; French - Échappement) - a mechanism located between the oscillating balance-spiral system and the main wheel drive. Its tasks include discretizing a continuous flow of energy at equal intervals and transferring it to an impulse balance stone. An overwhelming percentage of modern movements are equipped with a Swiss escapement as the most unpretentious and reliable. It consists of an escapement (escapement) wheel and an anchor fork, which engages with it by means of two ruby \u200b\u200bpallets. A growing number of manufacturers are committed to using silicon escapements instead of traditional hardened steel components.
Thanks to advances in materials science and modern technology, it is not uncommon for watch brands to experiment with more advanced single-pulse escapements such as the Audemars Piguet escapement or the Jaeger-LeCoultre isometric escapement. Their share is not high, but they are, albeit not cheap, but a very interesting alternative to the Swiss anchor escapement.
The co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels and now industrialized by the Omega brand, deserves special mention.
Balance (English - Balance; French - Balancier) - a moving part of the mechanism, which oscillates around its axis with a certain frequency, which makes it possible to divide time into strictly equal intervals. The balance oscillation consists of two half-oscillations. The most typical value of the oscillation frequency of the balance in the mechanisms of modern wristwatches are 18'000 vph, 21'600 vph, 28'800 vph. A sign of a high class is considered to be a balance of Glucidur, an alloy of beryllium bronze, however, other materials are often used - titanium, gold, platinum-iridium alloy.
The main qualitative characteristic of the balance that affects the isochronism (homogeneity) of oscillations is the moment of inertia, the value of which is closely related to the diameter of the balance and its mass. A heavy and large balance is a guarantee of high accuracy of the mechanism, but in this form it is most susceptible to mechanical stress, therefore finding a reasonable compromise between balance size and high moment of inertia is always a difficult task for a design engineer.
Balance spiral (English - Balance-Spring; French - Spiral) - the second integral component of the balance-spiral oscillatory system, the "heart" of a mechanical watch. It is produced by a few factories, and the exact secret of the alloy is kept by seven locks. The most widespread is the Nivarox alloy, however experiments with other materials, for example, with silicon, are gaining more and more popularity lately.
It is important to note that the period of oscillation, and hence the accuracy of the movement of the mechanism, can be adjusted both with the help of a spiral (by changing its effective length) and with the help of a balance wheel. In the latter case, we are talking about the popular balances with variable inertia (free-sprung balance), which is carried out using adjustable screws located on the rim of the balance wheel.
Pointer mechanism (English - Motion Works; French - Minuterie) - wheel gear located on the dial side and is responsible for transferring movement from the main wheel system to the hour and minute hands. Consists of the minute hand tribe ( Cannon pinion), minute (bill) wheel with tribe and hour wheel.
The mechanism of the winding and translation of arrows (English - Time-setting and Winding mechanism; French - Remontoir) Is a system of interconnected components designed to perform two important functions: setting the time by moving the hands and manually winding the barrel spring. Most of the parts of the mechanism are designed to perform one or the other function.
When manually winding the mechanism, the rotation of the winding shaft (Winding stem) through the clockwork (Winding pinion) and sliding (Sliding pinion) of the tribe is transmitted to the crown wheel (Crown wheel), directly connected to the ratchet wheel (Ratchet wheel) located on the shaft of the barrel. The rotation of the shaft tightens the mainspring, giving it the energy necessary for the movement of the movement.
In the case of shifting the hands, pulling the winding shaft causes the Yoke, under the action of the Setting lever, to engage the sliding tribe with the Intermediate wheel, which in turn is interconnected with the minute wheel of the hand mechanism.
It is important to note that in addition to manual-winding mechanisms, there is a separate and very extensive class of automatic-winding mechanisms. In this case, the replenishment of energy to the main drum is carried out by means of a self-winding rotor and a specialized wheel transmission.
Self-winding rotor - a semicircular segment rotating around the central axis of the mechanism (in the case of a central rotor). As a rule, the rotor itself or its peripheral weight is made of a material with a high density (gold, platinum, etc.) to improve the efficiency of the self-winding system. In addition to the central rotor, there are micro-rotor solutions as well as a number of peripheral rotor designs.
In conclusion, it is important to mention that, along with the definition of "mechanism" in watchmaking, the term Caliber (English, French - Caliber), which is now essentially synonymous with movement among watchmakers. It should also be noted that the diameter of round-shaped calibers is very often indicated in lines and denoted by the triple apostrophe symbol after the number (‘‘ ’), for example 11 ½‘ ‘’ (11 and half lines). To convert to the usual metric system of measurements, one should be guided by the ratio 1 line \u003d 2.2558 mm (often the value is rounded to 2.26 mm).
