To test one of the devices, we needed a "real" smoke generator. The present in the sense that we did not suit the water-glycerin fog, which produces the "heavy" smoke generators widely used in show business. Here are the weighted smallest particles of soot - this is a real smoke, which, as is known, is formed when burning something carbon-containing in a certain deficit of the oxidizing agent.
The search on the Internet gave the result, several of the structures available to manufacturers were found on the kneel, which were used mainly to search for cracks and cracks in gas distribution systems of car engine systems. One of them with some modifications and was taken as a basis. Actually, what happened:
The principle of operation is understandable to anyone who at least once in his life overheated a pan with oil - smoke it turns out a lot. So in this generator - in the chamber, where the oil is strongly heated, the air is downloaded, which leaves the chamber with the smoke formed. In this case, we use vaseline oil (purchased in the pharmacy), as the safest in terms of the formation of harmful combustion products. Consider the camera device: 
The heating element in it is the incandescent candle of FEBI 15956 for diesel engines purchased in a famous store of spare parts for foreign cars. This thing has a thread M12x1.25, which is close to the plumbing version of 1/4, it is short, which reduces the dimensions of the camera, and is relatively inexpensive. 
The chamber itself consists of a segment (CONDUCTION) of an inch tube, Fortorsk-adapter from 1/4 "per 1/2", adapter from 1/2 "on 1" and cap-plugs on 1 ". The joints are sealed by a plumbing thread to seal the threaded connections. . All this was purchased in one employee-building hypermarket. The air into the chamber is supplied and goes through two copper tubes with sliced \u200b\u200bM5 thread. They are screwed into two threaded holes in the lid and fixed with nuts with plated washers. The air supply tube is lowered into the chamber below. And so that there are less droplets in the outdoor air, it passes through a piece of steel washcloth for ripping dishes: 
Camera on a piece of blackboard with a corner, clamp and rubber gasket: 
Air is served from the automotive compressor. Initially it was assumed that the glow of the candle would need to regulate, for which a scheme was collected with the PWM power regulator on a popular timer 555: 
However, when using the generator's work, this regulator was unscrewed to the maximum and in the future it worked rather simply as a connector. Compressor and incandescent candle feed from the usual computer power supply. The photo below is done during the generator. It can be seen from an open tubule, this is the required smoke: 
Smoke smells only that the extinct candle and its smell dispels relatively quickly.
Also for the test, we needed to determine the concentration of this smoke in the air, as we did, will be told the next time.
The fact that the glow plugs facilitate the launch of a diesel engine, and during their breakdown, it will not start or will "trim" and require support to the starter. Consider what troubles can wait for the owner when replacing these items.
Why do you need incandescent candles
Incandescent candles warm the combustion cylinders from the inside, thereby facilitating the ignition of the fuel mixture in the diesel engine. The work of the Clamps manages the control unit, feed through the voltage supply from the relay. The control unit regulates the time after which the relay transmits feed voltage to the candle.
By and large, incandescent Candles - Expenditure Element In servicing a diesel engine, they are recommended to change every one hundred thousand km of mileage.
In our conditions, when the car is stored in the open air, it starts in the winter "on the cold" and is used to travel in the city cycle to short distances, often with warming in idling mode, change incandescent candles is recommended every 20-30 thousand km run, or once a half or two years old.
How to determine the need to replace
The malfunctions with incandescent candles will be prompted by difficulties with a cold launch of diesel.
If one candle came out of the order, the motor can start, but it will not work normally. If two and more candles broke down, diesel will be at the time of setting, it is unstable to work unstable, to demand support for the starter.
The surest sign of a relay fault or an incandescent candle control unit - no characteristic clickwhich is heard at the moment of turning the key in the ignition. This sound is heard every day the owners of diesel engine.
The operation of incandescent candles can be checked in different ways. Simplest - test their multimerBy disconnecting the wiring from the central electrode in the nest (well) of the candle and measuring the resistance of the latter by the device.
Basic rules for replacing glow candles
- Select original candles of well-known manufacturers, such as Bosch, Beru, Delphi. Poor-quality serves a maximum of one season.
- Select incandescent candles depending on the type of engine and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Change the set entirely, even if it seems that some candles work.
Typical problems when replacing candles
Dismantling requiring replacement of incandescent candles - a simple task only at first glance .
Elements are quite fragile, and inexperienced bus owner risks break the candletrying to unscrew it from the head of the cylinder block. In addition, the candle inside the GBC is in fairly difficult conditions: the unit can be deformed due to overheating, the candle well can be clogged with soot deposits, which literally fascinates the candle and interferes with its normal removal.
As a result, a simple kind of extraction procedure leads to the fact that the owner cannot adequately calculate the accompanying efforts and simply "turns his head" a candle - that is, a fragile element breaks on a thread.
In such a situation, remove the candle will have to work in the workshop. These are complex expensive work related to the dismantling of the GBC and drill the remnants of the candle from the well.
Right dismantle
How easy and without consequences will be able to replace the candle depends on how it was installed.
But there is another important aspect - the use of correct tools.
To extract the candle to apply only dynamometric key. The moment of force to be applied to unscrew the candle is indicated by the manufacturer. This information should be explored before the element replacement procedure and to follow it.
Useful recommendation - to dismantle incandescent candles after the engine warming. In this case, the difference in the coefficients of the temperature expansion of the material of the candle and the head of the cylinder block will make it easier to unscrew the elements.
If the candle does not work, even at the achievement of the deadline, attempts should be stopped.
In this case, the owner will help method "Moching"When a penetrating lubricant is applied to the Candle Thread District (can be replaced by kerosene). Then you need to wait, if necessary, repeating the procedure. The waiting time can delay before the day and even more, but it is important to impregnate the thread with a candle with lubricant.
During "soching" you can and even need to use the car as usual: the heating and the subsequent cooling of the motor will only help the kerosene or lubricant into the threads, so that the candle is easier to extract.
If you managed to unscrew the carving candle, but then it is stuck in the well due to the accumulated sediments, you will also have to apply the "soching" method. But in this case, for understandable reasons, the diesel cannot be done. Long-term dissolution of nagar and soot in the cules of kerosene will help pull out a candle without damaging it.
Installing a new candle
Before screwing down new elements in the GBC, must apply some ceramic lubrication on the carving and body of the candle. So removing the element that spent your resource will be much easier.
The second important point - before installing the candle carefully clean the thread and well from Nagar and deposits.
At the moment of screwing, be careful with the force. The new candle of incandescent can cause more harm than screwing out with great than you need, effort.
- If you exceed the recommended effort, risk breaking a new candle.
- If the applied force is not enough, gases will break into the well of the candle. Thus, it makes it difficult to extract the element with a planned replacement.
We wrote about the correct launch of the diesel engine in the winter.
Fuel nozzles for a diesel engine will find in our catalog
The calily candle that is used in the engines with a caliliest ignition is very simple. Its core is separated from the body by poronitic or salivary washers. The spiral is fastened with a stack of one end to the housing, and the other is right on the core. It is for this purpose that they have slits of a special form. Also, instead of welding, point welding can be used.
The operation of the incandescent candles is happening: when the motor starts, the core and the case begins to flow the voltage, which comes from the current source. Rechargeable batteries usually act as the source itself. Candle for DVS modulates the voltage from one and a half to three volts. It was then that the candles will work normally and the light red color of the candle when influencing will be provided. Depending on the material of the candle and its cross section, the required voltage may vary.
If the designer has a desire to squeeze the largest power out of its own engine, then he will choose candles not only for hot, but also for cold weather, i.e. Provide two extreme temperatures that may be at competitions. It is worth it only on those air sheets that will be installed directly at competitions.
For aircraft models, a slightly different incandescent candle can be used, which has some differences from the usual, as, for example, the presence of a metal deflector, which protects the spiral of the candle from pollution with fuel when the engine is running on a rich fuel mass. The plate should have the same width as the outer diameter of the helix, and its thickness should be 0.2 - 0.3 mm. Usually, in the production of plates is used brass or steel. The deflector is attached using contact welding or spout to the groove of the candle case. Such a candle allows the engine to work even at low speed. Of course, the necessary candles must be checked in advance on the engine to make sure their performance.
Many newcomers in modeling weakly imagine what kind of incandescent candle, as it works and what is different from the spark candle for the engine and stop only on scarce information: for the engine you need a candle, it is used to start and operating a motor and .... everything.
In fact, the incandescent candle is the engine ignition system for the model. It is installed on motors operating on a nitromethane mix, as an alternative to spark ignition.
The incandescent candle has no moving part. Its working element is a fixed spiral.
With the help of incandescent candle, the engine is launched. To do this, you need to connect the glow to the candle of incandeship (this device warms up the spiral to the flammability temperature). After the fuel mixture of the fuel mixture, the engine is started, and the working temperature of the combustion of the fuel supports the spiral of the incandescent candle in the hot state (without anneaming).
Candles of incandescent can be two types: standard candles and turbo. Standard candles have a direct body with a thread, by means of which the candle is screwed into the cylinder head.
Turbo candles have a conical form of the part that screws into the combustion chamber. The conical part of the candle is connected to the head in a special depression of the conical shape (the head is specifically designed for this type of candles). Through the use of special candles and the heads developed under them, achieve an increase in compression, reduce losses, and, as a result, greater productivity.
The standard candle is sealed in the head with a laying of copper, and the turbo candle is sealed due to its conical shape.
Turbo candles are used on 3.5 cm engines. At competitions. In other disciplines, their use (at competitions) is limited. Choosing standard or turbo candles for your model, it is better to give preference to traditional candles, as they are easier to buy and they cost much cheaper.
Incandescent candles should be used to use the type recommended for your engine manufacturer. When choosing a candle, pay attention to the code that indicates the operating temperature of the candle (spiral). However, it is possible to prevent this noticeable code correctly to choose a candle. The manufacturers have no single system of marking of candles, and each of them produces from 2-4 to 10 or more types of incandescent candles. Here is fit and lost. If you are not a professional racer, which knows thoroughly all the features of the available candles, you will be difficult to navigate.
Remember: Choosing a cold or hot candle in most cases comes down to the volume of your engine. On small models, hot candles are needed, and on large-volume engines need to put colder candles. If you use fuel with a large percentage of nitromethane content, you need a cold candle, and if low nitromethane content, then hot.
Those who are going to participate in races for which performance is important should take into account the compression ratio. Motors with a high degree of compression love colder candles, and with a low degree of compression - on the contrary. Of course, in order to find out the degree of compression, you need to measure the compression of your DVS, but the experienced model is sooner or later still have to get a compressometer. Recall that the regulation of the engine compression can be carried out by gasket under the engine head. The thickness of the gasket - the smaller the compression. And the installation of fine gasket compression increases. But such an adjustment is an area of \u200b\u200baction of experienced modelists who can regulate the engine.
The use of incorrect candles does not bring anything good to your motor. If the candle is too hot, it will manifest itself in detonation, too early ignition and an increased operating temperature of the DVS. These symptoms indicate an incorrectly selected candle, operation in this form of the motor is unacceptable! Very often, when using too hot candles, the engine fails.
The use of too cold candle less destructively affects the motor: it will be badly removed idling, the motor will burn fuel and develop a smaller maximum speed.
Incandescent candles are best stored in the original packaging, on which the code is specified and (most often) operating temperature. So you will get less chances to confuse candles. Visually, you can try to determine the cold or hot candle on the spiral. A thinner spiral with a lot of turns says that the candle is hot. And the thick wire of the spiral and the smaller number of turns say that the candle is cold.
Models of newcomers often ask which candles are preferable - cold or hot, in terms of their dol
truck-Hyundai.ru.
Repair candles of glow do it yourself
He took off the collector, began to deal with candles and saw that:
1) The nut is revealed on the same candle, the terminal hangs nearby
2) on the wire of the candles of the first cylinder terminal
3) the remaining nuts in different degrees are weakened
Since earlier I noticed that all the candles work and visually see uniform warming up, and the engine started significantly better I can conclude that the nuts were unscrewed during operation and a considerable role in this was played by Solyar, which flowed in abundance from under the nozzles of some kind Time - until I bought the hose of the desired diameter and did not eliminate all the leaks. All nuts in the traces of evaporation of diesel fuel. The first cylinder I, apparently, I still missed - I could not work the candle in it, I was cut off - and I saw it, I just could not understand where he was from. After removing the collector, I saw an unused candle and drew attention to it.
All candles show a resistance of 0.3-0.4 ohms, taking into account the error of the tester. All wires will be called and show 0 Ohm.
I tried 2 times, however, in the garage - when there was +15 on the thermometer after heating the garage and after idle when it was shown +5 (on the street at that moment it was -7). It really starts with the half-turn - before it was not so, first began to shake and fake with one cylinder - it lasted differently on duration time, depending on the air temperature around.
At the same time restored the insulation of the harness of the wires, the insulation of the sensors, eliminated the twist, removal the contacts, put on the heat shrink. In the process - setting an angle of advance an injection of TNVD and checking the phases of gas distribution.
By and large, incandescent Candles - Expenditure Element
Or once a half or two years old.
The surest sign of a relay fault or an incandescent candle control unit -
The operation of incandescent candles can be checked in different ways. Simplest -
Dismantling requiring replacement of incandescent candles - a simple task only at first glance .
break the candle
As a result, a simple kind of extraction procedure leads to the fact that the owner cannot adequately calculate the accompanying efforts and simply "turns his head" a candle - that is, a fragile element breaks on a thread.
Right dismantle
But there is another important aspect - the use of correct tools.
Useful recommendation - to dismantle incandescent candles after the engine warming
method "Moching"
Installing a new candle
The second important point - before installing the candle carefully.
Perhaps all the owners of diesel cars are well acquainted with incandescent candles. These small "helpers" provide a reliable launch of the motor, especially in the conditions of negative temperatures. However, for their proper operation, it is necessary to monitor the state of the rear candles of incandescent. We will try to figure out what it is, as well as to check and replace the relay.
What is gas candle relays?
Before you know what relays are, it is necessary to figure out the principle of operation of the engine incandescent. Everyone knows that in gasoline engines to ignite the working mixture, a special device is used - the ignition candle that creates a spark charge at certain points in time. In diesel engines, such a device is absent, since the ignition of the mixture is carried out directly at the compression stage spontaneously. However, to make this process uninterrupted, it is necessary to initially warm up the mixture to the required state. For this, the glowing candles of the diesel engine are used. There are currents of a certain amount of candles, with which the heating of the helix occurs. The heat released from the spiral side is sent to the intake manifold and cylinders, providing heating of the mixture to the required temperature.
In the process of increasing the temperature of the engine, the temperature of the mixture occurs, the extra degrees for which is the ignition of the mixture even before entering the engine cylinder, which leads to inefficient engine operation or its failure. So that this does not happen, the incandescent candles change their temperature, supporting it within certain limits. It is for this that the relay of incandescent candle is intended.
The relay is a device that closes or opens the electrical circuit depending on the changes in the controlled value. In this case, the relay for a while serves a current on the candle of incandescent and overlaps it, giving the candles to "cool". After that, the cycle is repeated again until the motor stops.
It is quite logical that when the relay is malfunction, the incandescent candles will stop. And this means that the fuel will not receive the desired temperature and will be burned not effectively, which will lead to the loss of power and overruns of fuel. Therefore, this device needs to be maintained in working condition. Suppose we doubt its performance and we need to check it. It's time to learn how to do it.
Where is the boot candle relay, how to check it and change it?
Since this relay is an electrical device, the process of its test is noticeably simplified. To do this, you will need a multimeter. Initially, it is necessary to find this relay. It can be performed as a separate block or box that is attached to the car body. The place of attachment to the body is called "mass".
Through this connection is powered by a "minus" terminal. All other ends are plus. Additional information on special terminals of the relay receives from the engine control unit. The unit processes information from temperature sensors and creates the necessary pulse to the relay input, which causes its closure and opening. This indicates that the relay is connected by an additional packet of wires.
The easiest way to find this relay can be over the wires coming out of the candles. Next, switch the multimeter to the voltage measurement and measure it when the ignition is turned on at the output of the relay. For this purpose, one of the probe is pressed against the terminals emerging on the candle of incandescent, and the other to the car body. The output voltage must be at least 12 volts. In extreme cases, measure the voltage at the battery terminals, and if it turns out 12 or more, and on the relay 11, it is considered faulty. Another test method is the measurement of resistance between the relay terminals. This is done individually for each type of device, since the standard resistance values \u200b\u200bmay vary.
There is another - an indirect method of checking. For this candle, they are twisted, they attach wires with the relay and include ignition. If the candles begin to warm, then the relay is considered good. Otherwise, faulty or candles or relay itself.
To change the relay, it is necessary to first remove the wires from it leading from the electronic control unit and on the candle of incandescent. Then the fastening is turned off. After that, the location of the connection with the "mass" of the new relay with the body is thoroughly cleaned, and a new device is installed on the place of the old.
Before removing the plugs, you must remember their installation location, otherwise there is a risk of collecting the device incorrectly, because of which you can spoil work, both relays and incandescent candles. In order not to climb under the hood once, it is also recommended to replace and candles.
On this, the check and replacement of the glow candle relay is completed. As you can see, this is not a complicated procedure and fully fulfilled. We wish you good luck on the roads!
kalina-2.ru.
Candle refinement from Turnigy. - Park Parflar
Good time of day, modelists! It will be about improving the heat. 
I decided to write after a few days we walked with the start of the engine. I hope the article will be useful. How were the problems were just in the pot. For those who do not know what he needed, I will tell in two words. The glow of the candle is designed to start a valet engine type, allows you to warm up the candle before starting the engine. You can read in detail on the expanses of the world ...
And now to the matter, I bought this upgrade more than a year ago, I decided to check, inserted the battery, I cleaned the candle and silence. More precisely, the candle is not heated. He began to understand, like contact everywhere, there is no KZ, the battery lights a direct candle, and it does not work with the potion. In the comments to the goods, it was recommended to change the polarity when installing the battery, and did it, the heat earned and I calmed down, he lay, I had a year and then I was given fuel, I got free time, I decided to start and rod a car. But it was not here, it would not start. At first I thought that the jamb in the settings of the carburetor. Twenty needles - no shifts. After several engine overflows, I began to look deeper. He started with a candle, checked it separately by connecting directly - it works. Insert into the heat, works. Well, I think strange. I try again. Do not start, unscrew the candle, and it is wet. It became clear that the heat of Shalit. He came home, disassembled, tester checked the contacts and as it turned out to be disappeared as "+" and on "-". All this happened when shaking, and sometimes just like that. As in one film it was said: "One Allah knows where the spark of this ...". It would be possible to drop into the closet, leave the appropriate comment on the product, go and buy a new one, but this is not our method.
So we will need:
1 - foil. I used the usual food.
2 - Shilo or something similar, for example, a thin screwdriver.
3 - file or sandpaper.
4 - Plaschubs.
And now the refinement itself.
We disassemble. 
in contact "+" pushing a little foil twisted into the tube, we are far from pushing, so that it does not fall out and thoroughly stuck out of the hole. 
Next, we take for "-". We throw the "snail" claw, so that there was a flat spiral without an adhesive. 
We collect, insert the battery and everything works like a clock.
From myself I will say the following, the heat of his money is simple and comfortable. I would say anything superfluous. Perhaps many it will work without refinement, but I would recommend at least sanding contacts. I hope the material will be useful. Thank you for attention.
www.parkflyer.ru.
Audi A4 1.9TDI PD AVF (MT)\u003e Logbook\u003e Replacing glow candles, pulling out a broken candle.
I decided to replace the candles of incandescent, because new ones were already bought, and the old unknown works or not.
The solution arose almost spontaneously, there is a car in the garage, the day off, there is a couple of hours of time - everything is for a small replacement. I drove into the garage with Win1531, quickly scattered the extra tubes under the hood and armed with the head on 10 began to slowly unscrew the candles, a little tightly twisted almost without problems.
Candles stood beru:
on the form of normal, check showed that everything is operational, only some warmed up a little slower, well, well, the old can be left to the stock, but to put new Bosch.
I started twisting 1.2, (3 did not take off the otkisala), 4 ... - And then there was a failure (they spoke to read before use and use a dynamic key, and it did not turn out), in general, I spinning 4 candles, it slowly hits everything and pulls it Click and free twist: (. Rounded the head of a new candle - they did not feel such slim or hands. 
In the refused feelings, went home in search of decisions how to continue to be.
After reading a bunch of decisions found that before twisting the candles, it was necessary to clean the wells, drive a thread from slags, lubricate the thread with copper lubricant - s averand the candle from the hand and reach the 15th. Here are my all mistakes, twisted from the hand and is unknown to Sklko, so the next day a dynamic key and deep heads of fond are taken. The solution about the chip candle was to start unscrew it if you drive the appropriate TROX.
While it was decided to unscrew all the screwed candles around and install them correctly.
Unscrew and clean threads 
we run thread
that's what stuck after the run 
next, clean the well and make sure that everything is ok 
Well, we already twist the dubbal lubricated candle with a dynamic key with a dynamically displayed on 15 nm. 
According to the power feeling, I wrapped the candles initially at 50-60nm.
Next, I am acceptable for a chip candle to pull the contact in the center, I had to take the first bolt and did a hole in it with a carvings, then put the washer and wrapped the bot, the central electrotes turned out and I pulled it out.
Found a suitable Trox and drove into the base of the candle, it remains to unscrew - a little effort ..., it does not go, slightly more ... Click and broke to Trox π
In the Dremel'Em attempt to push the groove and unscrew the screwdriver or how to get a candle, everything came down to
www.drive2.ru.
Ford Focus Hatchback 1.8 Na Chipe\u003e Logbook\u003e Heated by antifreeze in glow candles with their own hands. Review # 1.
I will start with that. This will work! In Princing, the goal in this was. And reading the comments to the bottom of my blog, I realized that people some do not understand all the meaning of this venture. The meaning was in that. That would also help the engine to drive faster and protruding Salon too. Everything in color is written that it is necessary for EPVS. But guys. This is stupidly hairdryer! He does not help to warm up the engine. And in frosty days it is necessary. This is what it writes that it is a collective farm. Yes, the collective farm, but only in the cigrants themselves from the water pipeline. By Elekish, everything is in the factory and will be still upgraded. There are still things and still on diesel and gasoline. So you solve you and only you. I will say that. Physics No one has canceled. And dry your hair dryer!
What sits on time to warm up: I have a short ride. How most of us are. work home. House-mohazine and t d.
In the morning I went on business in the morning. Courses from 1 km to 3 km. For these short trips, and then only under the end of the route, the stove began to blow both the arrow and the arrow only broke off from 60 degrees. And then another thing, warming the car with incl. heater and smoking one cigarette as usual, from the stove already walled the warm air. After that, it was not a bad thing somewhere 700-1000 meters warm machine. There was no such thing))) I am glad. For the sake of experience I will change the thermostat (the benefit of them is much in stock) and I think to start with the purchase of new candles and for a powerful. If it is not enough, then go to 3 candles. All heat and prudence!))) Haters and Zadrotnim in Na!
Regular heater on my wag
It seems like Ford. Some
Mileage: 187500 KM
www.drive2.com.
BMW 3 Series Touring 330d Edition Bun\u003e Logbook\u003e How to unscrew the glowing candle and do not break down. For advice and recommendations!
Today I decided to share my experience on twisting and replacing the glow glow of the diesel engine, in particular these motors bMW M47N, M51, M57, M57N At which I did not understand the candles and acquaintances, friends and drimes, or similar in design. Even Artem from Rrychitsi came and the rest was pleased with the link
The post relates to dieselists)) But the lighters can get some experience))
Candles are often thrown from old age, from soot, from the fact that they were installed last time without lubrication, or not cleaned holes. And when unscrewed can be broken. I will share my experience, and below I will give some interesting video instructions not only by replacing, but also by driving a crush.
So for my experience I was finally done to do it neatly with several tricks.
1) Motor should be warm!, it's about 50+ well, or above degrees, it's better not hot, and I hope to do it in cold (from practice and forums breaks on cold)
2) It is preferably in a few hours or per day to pour candles with liquid type WD40, a solvent of rust wurth and so on and so on, of course, it is problematic to do if the candles are under the collector, but then remove it, pour and go to do some passing things. (10-15 min)
3) I do not use a torque wrench! Because it is built in my hand and I feel the moment of breakdown and cutting the thread, I turn the nut 17 years old and during this time the thread cut off mostly only if she did not go on it)))) (I use it for the GBC)
If you have a key, wonderful, take it and put the moment that corresponds to the thread diameter, it can be found on the Internet or on the instructions of the manufacturer for a particular candle.
So, I take the head under 1/4 "and the cracking day and trying to turn away, smoothly and slowly add an effort counterclockwise with a small lever, feeling effort. If the candle went - the URA success is relaxed, travel to the next
If the candle does not go, then you should not pull, take a liquid again and shed her a candle and we expect again (go to the next candles)
4) Now another little trick! The head of the candle for example is 10 - then we take the head on 8 or 9, we dress up for a candle that she would wash into the hexagon of the body and quietly repeat tikhonechko Tapping in the body of the candle to disconnect / break the diffusion of candle and the body of the GBC and soot and other oxides
5) Next, repeat the revealing procedure, and in most cases it is enough to throw a candle! If this happened, then consider that the candle will get! Later, as a rule, it goes with a creak)) shed at times with liquid, and we still try unscrewing / screwing the candle, as if cutting the thread, one turn to unscrewing and the floor or a quarter to twist. Unscrew the candle carefully.
6) Clean threadsI use a cloth wound on a screwdriver moistened with carburetor cleaners or solvent. Turning counterclockwise, we go out of the depth of the hole outside, pulling the dirt. Same we clean the well and cone landing candles, it is very important.
7) you can or even need update threads (often do I do not recombul
www.drive2.ru.
Replacing glow candles with their own hands
We have already written that the glow plugs facilitate the launch of a diesel engine, and during their breakdown it will not start or will "trim" and require support to the starter. Consider what troubles can wait for the owner when replacing these items. 
Why do you need incandescent candles
Incandescent candles warm the combustion cylinders from the inside, thereby facilitating the ignition of the fuel mixture in the diesel engine. The work of the Clamps manages the control unit, feed through the voltage supply from the relay. The control unit regulates the time after which the relay transmits feed voltage to the candle.
By and large, incandescent Candles - Expenditure Element In servicing a diesel engine, they are recommended to change every one hundred thousand km of mileage.
In our conditions, when the car is stored in the open air, it starts in the winter "on the cold" and is used to travel in the city cycle to short distances, often with warming in idling mode, change incandescent candles is recommended every 20-30 thousand km run, or once a half or two years old.
How to determine the need to replace
The malfunctions with incandescent candles will be prompted by difficulties with a cold launch of diesel.
If one candle came out of the order, the motor can start, but it will not work normally. If two and more candles broke down, diesel will be at the time of setting, it is unstable to work unstable, to demand support for the starter.
The surest sign of a relay fault or an incandescent candle control unit - no characteristic clickwhich is heard at the moment of turning the key in the ignition. This sound is heard every day the owners of diesel engine.
The operation of incandescent candles can be checked in different ways. Simplest - test their multimerBy disconnecting the wiring from the central electrode in the nest (well) of the candle and measuring the resistance of the latter by the device.
Basic rules for replacing glow candles
- Select original candles of well-known manufacturers, such as Bosch, Beru, Delphi. Poor-quality serves a maximum of one season.
- Select incandescent candles depending on the type of engine and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
- Change the set entirely, even if it seems that some candles work.
Typical problems when replacing candles
Dismantling requiring replacement of incandescent candles - a simple task only at first glance .
Elements are quite fragile, and inexperienced bus owner risks break the candletrying to unscrew it from the head of the cylinder block. In addition, the candle inside the GBC is in fairly difficult conditions: the unit can be deformed due to overheating, the candle well can be clogged with soot deposits, which literally fascinates the candle and interferes with its normal removal.
As a result, a simple kind of extraction procedure leads to the fact that the owner cannot adequately calculate the accompanying efforts and simply "turns his head" a candle - that is, a fragile element breaks on a thread.
In such a situation, remove the candle will have to work in the workshop. These are complex expensive work related to the dismantling of the GBC and drill the remnants of the candle from the well.
Right dismantle
How easy and without consequences will be able to replace the candle depends on how it was installed.
But there is another important aspect - the use of correct tools.
To extract the candle to apply only dynamometric key. The moment of force to be applied to unscrew the candle is indicated by the manufacturer. This information should be explored before the element replacement procedure and to follow it.
Useful recommendation - to dismantle incandescent candles after the engine warming. In this case, the difference in the coefficients of the temperature expansion of the material of the candle and the head of the cylinder block will make it easier to unscrew the elements.
If the candle does not work, even at the achievement of the deadline, attempts should be stopped.
In this case, the owner will help method "Moching"When a penetrating lubricant is applied to the Candle Thread District (can be replaced by kerosene). Then you need to wait, if necessary, repeating the procedure. The waiting time can delay before the day and even more, but it is important to impregnate the thread with a candle with lubricant.
During "soching" you can and even need to use the car as usual: the heating and the subsequent cooling of the motor will only help the kerosene or lubricant into the threads, so that the candle is easier to extract.
If you managed to unscrew the carving candle, but then it is stuck in the well due to the accumulated sediments, you will also have to apply the "soching" method. But in this case, for understandable reasons, the diesel cannot be done. Long-term dissolution of nagar and soot in the cules of kerosene will help pull out a candle without damaging it.
Installing a new candle
Before screwing down new elements in the GBC, must apply some ceramic lubrication on the carving and body of the candle. So removing the element that spent your resource will be much easier.
The second important point - before installing the candle carefully clean the thread and well from Nagar and deposits.
At the moment of screwing, be careful with the force. The new candle of incandescent can cause more harm than screwing out with great than you need, effort.
- If you exceed the recommended effort, risk breaking a new candle.
- If the applied force is not enough, gases will break into the well of the candle. Thus, it makes it difficult to extract the element with a planned replacement.
We wrote here about the correct launch of the diesel engine in the winter here.
Fuel nozzles for a diesel engine will find in our catalog
Go to the catalog
www.dieselkraft.by.
I decided to write after a few days we walked with the start of the engine. I hope the article will be useful. How were the problems were just in the pot. For those who do not know what he needed, I will tell in two words. The glow of the candle is designed to start a valet engine type, allows you to warm up the candle before starting the engine. You can read in detail on the expanses of the world ...
And now to the matter, I bought this upgrade more than a year ago, I decided to check, inserted the battery, I cleaned the candle and silence. More precisely, the candle is not heated. He began to understand, like contact everywhere, there is no KZ, the battery lights a direct candle, and it does not work with the potion. In the comments to the goods, it was recommended to change the polarity when installing the battery, and did it, the heat earned and I calmed down, he lay, I had a year and then I was given fuel, I got free time, I decided to start and rod a car. But it was not here, it would not start. At first I thought that the jamb in the settings of the carburetor. Twenty needles - no shifts. After several engine overflows, I began to look deeper. He started with a candle, checked it separately by connecting directly - it works. Insert into the heat, works. Well, I think strange. I try again. Do not start, unscrew the candle, and it is wet. It became clear that the heat of Shalit. He came home, disassembled, tester checked the contacts and as it turned out to be disappeared by both "+" and on "-". All this happened when shaking, and sometimes just like that. As in one film it was said: "One Allah knows where the spark of this ...". It would be possible to drop into the closet, leave the appropriate comment on the product, go and buy a new one, but this is not our method.
So we will need:
1 - foil. I used the usual food.
2 - Shilo or something similar, for example, a thin screwdriver.
3 - file or sandpaper.
4 - Plaschubs.
And now the refinement itself.
We disassemble. 
in contact "+" pushing a little foil twisted into the tube, do not pushed far so that it does not fall out and thoroughly stuck out of the hole.
Next, we take for "-". We throw out the "snail" we fell, so that there was a smooth spiral without an adhesive. 
We collect, insert the battery and everything works like a clock.
From myself I will say the following, the heat of his money is simple and comfortable. I would say anything superfluous. Perhaps many it will work without refinement, but I would recommend at least sanding contacts. I hope the material will be useful. Thank you for attention.
