Externally, the usual "Niva", as soon as it approaches closer - you understand that something is wrong with her. The car works silently. Everything is explained as soon as the driver opens the hood - there is no usual equipment for the car with the engine.
"This battery itself, believes its part - the other part is in the trunk, while the trunk is completely free, - explains Yuri Logvin, showing the" insides "of the homemade electrocarbus. - This is the heater tank, the machine is equipped with a hydraulic heater, as on the "Zaporozhet", only there the air heats up, and here the toosol is heated and tosol heats up the salon. In this case, it is worth the battery from Nissan Leaf, they have already appeared in Ukraine and, in principle, you can buy "BESUT" for quite acceptable money. "
Yuri notes that he chose this type of battery, based on practical considerations: "The lead battery goes to an electric car for a maximum of two or three years - this has already checked the practice many of our colleagues. And this should walk ten years at least. I have the second car "Slavuta", here I have been driving on it for the third year and did not notice any reduction of the tank. "
Instead of gasoline "Niva" feeds on electricity, respectively, the fuel tank is missing. "If you wish, you can make a three-phase connector, then you can take not 3 kW, and about 9 - 10 kW, - shows the Harkovchanin plug for recharging under the former tuch of the fuel tank. - That is, if this is a taxi - then, probably, it makes sense with all this "bother". For domestic use - most of the maximum input is about 5 kW.
"The maximum speed is about 120 km / h, that is, the faster you are going, the faster you spend. If you drive at a speed of 60 km / h, then you can drive, approximately 110 km, if you go 120 km / h - then I think the charge is enough somewhere on kilometers 70, "the Ukrainian rationalizer talks about the technical characteristics of the electric vehicle. - The machine slows down recuperative - no energy loss, the pads are not heated. You can set up differently: now the "comfortable" mode is installed, in which the braking is not very strong when the car stops too fast - the people begins to be nervous. "
It influences the operation of the electric vehicle and the air temperature, explains Yuri Logvin. The stroke reserve decreases, but not so much. This happens due to the fact that in the battery resistance is slightly increasing. In winter, you can ride quite comfortably with a good stove. "On small lifts, the car accelerates quite confidently," says Yuri, "the sound of the helicopter, or an airplane, I don't know. A good plus that the wheels are big - in Kharkiv roads do not feel so feeling these "Colds" and the borders confidently "climbs". "
In the middle of the salon, everything is in their places, but this is at first glance: additional indicators are noted on the torpedo, which show the voltage in the system, the temperature of the motor and the level of gasoline in the heater tank. Also present stove control regulators. Everything else is the standard elements of the "Niva" dashboard.
This is not the first who collected Yuri Logvin. According to him, he will no longer render on a gasoline car. The re-equipment of the ordinary machine to the electric will cost 7 - 10 thousand euros. In addition to the money for technical work, a few more thousands of hryvnia will need to register a re-equipped car in the traffic police. "Register the replacement of the unit, it is approximately 3 thousand hryvnias. Everything is quite officially, that is, an abstract in the Kiev Institute is compiled, from being confirmed on the basis of this, here in the traffic police can be recorded, "says Kharkiv.
Video: Idea Factory: Here it is the electric car "DIY"!
Specifications: ➤ Speed \u200b\u200b50 km / h, reserve stroke 60-80 km km. ➤ Rear is implemented by the controller. ➤ Weight 725 at the original, after removing unnecessary nodes of 575 kg. The final weight has not yet decided. ➤ Motor of the sequential excitation 48 volts, 150 amps, Altrax controller, 48 V, 450 A. ➤ Eight six-step stationary batteries with a capacity of 180 a * h weighing 30 kg from France. ➤ Converter from Taiwan. ➤ Charger European, smart, impulse, 56 V, 45 A. ➤ Reverse contactors, England. The car was assembled in the garage with his own hands. It is decided to establish a Golfkar motor for a 5 kW of rated power on the car. Voltage aboard while 48 volts. It is sharpened and installed on the motor flange flange with a bearing under the rotor shaft. Made a transition elastic clutch with slots at the ends and transitional plan-washer. Motor with a box are articulated. Installed on the car. Enter 220 volts made from the place of the filling neck. Through the familiar connector. Through the fuses, they brought under the hood, where there is a memory of 25 A (left). When using a full-fledged native gearbox and a 5-kilowatt electric motor, the overclocking dynamics is approximately the same as the 1000 cubes donor. Voltage drawdown is not marked. On the Altrax controller, a limit of 70% start and max currents is calibrated. Switching gear light, without jerks and side sounds. The brakes require some effort despite the cutting mass of cars in 900 kg + 100 kg of driver. In general, the dynamics and handling of the car are good. Before installing on the car replaced the oil in the checkpoint. Filled an automatic with a viscosity coefficient by SAE equal to 50 units. It is assumed that the efficiency of the mild gearbox is not lower than 94-95%. Losses are insignificant. Much smaller than due to the operation of the electric motor outside the nominal revolutions in case of refusal from the full transmission. The clutch is not installed on all cars. Excess node. Only reduce overclocking dynamics. The energy of the rotating rotor of the electric motor is negligible compared to the state of resting the car. After a five-minute intense check-in, the controller on the radiator and the electric motor is only slightly warm. As a positive result of moderate loads on the electrical part. By using the PPC. There is an opportunity to further increase the dynamics of overclocking, removing all restrictions from the controller. The wiring is made by a cable of 70 square meters. It wanders the thought of putting 8 Akb Minn-Cat, 100 a * h, 12 V. They are close to the current one. Will weigh 185 kg instead of 240 kg. And the energy intensity will provide about 10 kW * h. Now theoretically 9 kWh * h, in practice - less. They are not new. When placed on the machine of four 105 a * h and four 120 a * h, the Akb "Dec" can be obtained by almost 11 kW * h energy with a mass of batteries of only 205 kg. What will provide mileage on one charge at least 100 km at a speed of 60 km / h. At the price of a battery total 50.000. And resource up to 700 cycles at 60% discharge. On brakes. Perhaps a vacuum amplifier will be installed. There's a meaning. The kit is available. Heating salon will be. It is planned to stick a couple of dozen ceramic resistors of 25 W on the stove radiator. Other options are possible. Counting the cost of components: 1. The cost of the motor was 500 dollars, used the controller - about the same. 2. In case of refusal of the PPC, an electric motor with a MKP would be as minimally 4 times large. And the corresponding converter to it. At a summary price of at least 4500 dollars. Weighing 50 kg. Immediately there would be a need to acquire more powerful AKB. Put a different contactor. And much more.
In conclusion, it is not superfluous to report that a cheap electric car satisfying most of the requirements for the car is possible. We came to this conclusion from the following considerations: 1. The electric vehicle in the budget version can drive up to 100 km per day. 2. The main path of most people living and operating in the city from home to work and back does not exceed 50-60 kilometers, and this is the main daily route. And really, if you think, it becomes clear that this main route eats a lot of money on gasoline, despite the fact that half the time people stand in traffic. At the same time, gasoline continues to be consumed, and the electric vehicle at this point is not to consume any watt of energy. In addition, the property of batteries is such that, if simple, they are a bit self-painting. So that for electric vehicle it is profitable in double. 3. The electric car can please the owner of the cheap operation, dynamicity, the ability to move in those places where the downlock is prohibited. Ride occurs in complete silence. 4. In the world there is a process of electrification of transport. Automakers are developing serial electric cars. In the coming years, electric cars will begin to go from conveyors by a mass flow.
Read also on the siteIn this article, we will look at the device and the principle of operation of the transmission of transmissions of tractors "Kirovets" K-700 and K-701, because Their structure is completely identical. We also give the highlights in the adjustment, maintenance and repair of this mechanism .... Whenever the car enters an accident, strong kinetic forces act. In any accident there is a certain amount of energy. The actual numbers vary depending on the velocity and mass of the car, as well as from the speed and mass ... The drive belts of the engine units are the subject of regular car maintenance. Loud whistle, bad battery charging and even overheating is the symptoms that should encourage you to check the drive belts of your engine ... |
Having an electric vehicle, you will first save money on fuel, which is simply great for the environment. We hurry to please you that you can build an electric vehicle with your own hands even using the most ordinary machine.
We offer you a number of instructions that must be followed in order to create an electric vehicle with your own hands.
Step 1: Choose a car from which you will do electric car with your own hands
It is best to choose a common brand, that you facilitate your access to numerous parts (and they will necessarily need). The simplicity of the design of applicants when choosing, in this case, is welcome (the easier - the better). Another important detail is the weight of the future electric vehicle, which you will create your own hands. It must be remembered that our future cars will be solidified in weight thanks to the battery. The most optimal option for building an electric vehicle is believed - cabriolets or cars up to 2 tons.
If you want the future electric vehicle to gain speed, look for a well-streaming, having the right aerodynamic forms of the car for minimal resistance (as an option, additional optics can be created later with your own hands separately). The wind is excessive resistance, as a rule, is clogged with your electric vehicle from 10 to 20 km of run or from 8.0 to 16.1 km / h.
For electric vehicles in general, the gear shift box does not need, since the ability to go back and backwards is carried out using the controller.
The electric car you are going to make your own hands should also have enough space for electrical batteries that provide sufficient power supply engine. It is also worth remembering that when it is created, it is necessary to take into account the opportunity to have constant access to batteries for easy maintenance by their own hands. Do not forget that the uniform accommodation of the batteries on the automotive space is directly responsible for the stability of your electric vehicle.
Video: how to make electric vehicles do it yourself
Step 2: Select the engine for your electric vehicle, which you can compose at your discretion by installing it with your own hands.
Find you need, does not require a professional level of knowledge. DC motor is a standard motor to create almost all electric vehicles. It will even be enough to find such a motor in the used state and restore it. The task is quite simple (what needs to be done with your own hands is to disassemble the case, clean and degrease the electric motor, and then restore all its connectors).
Step 3: Purchase of an electric vehicle
Before starting an electric vehicle assembly, you will need the main and backup batteries. You need to search for a helium-element battery, which is a type of adjustable lead-acid batteries containing a thickened electrolyte. Such sealed (without revision) batteries do not require additional depowering with their own intertwined water into the cell of the future electric vehicle. This is a sealed battery with a pressure discharge valve. Buying, you can explain to the seller for what purposes you need the battery you will need.
More expensive option - to purchase lithium-ion batteries. It must be said that they are quite expensive, have a varied voltage, but this option allows you to purchase almost one battery instead of picking a number of smaller. After all, so that such a battery pull a large car with passengers and drive a decent distance - it will be necessary in total 72 volts and from 40 to 60 ampels. If you want the car to develop up to 64 km / h, it is better to take 144 volts and about 80 amps of the clock. Although, many automobiles wishing to create electric vehicles do it yourself, they acquire lithium-ion batteries.
Step 4: Remove the old engine with your own hands
You will need a crane beam and a set of keys to help you remove ICE and old spare parts from the car. If old and rusty bolts are poorly unscrewed - use the liquid key (it is in all auto shops).
We take out the engine and everything else that we will not need to work in a bundle with an electric motor: tank, exhaust system, radiator, etc.
Was or there was no power steering in your future electric car which you create do it yourself It is not so important, since you can always install an electric power steering as an additional option.
Step 5: Install the electric motor and the battery at the place of the old block
Here you can reuse the gearbox supports. The electric motor is combined with a gearbox and pierce the jack, we measure the difference between old engine mounting bolts and an electric motor and install it.
You can make and mount a completely new mount, but it is much easier to use the original engine mount as it has dampers embedded in it to avoid dynamic engine loads. This reduces vibration and rattling when the engine accelerates or slows down.
You still need a transition plate for connecting the transmission of our electric motor and couplings (specially created to pair the engine flywheel and the cardan shaft to the transmission).
It is best to bring the engine and a gearbox to the workshop and use a simple piece of cardboard to measure the distance between the bolts holes on one side and the electric motor bolts to another.
Place the electric motor inside the front of the car and connect the controller. The controller, as a rule, can be 72 volts (as a controller on any car for golf, for example). However, if you want a 144 volt controller, you will need to find sites that sell them specifically for electric vehicles.
Install the battery (using battery fasteners). Connect the motor and the battery to the controller.
Step 6: Installation of solar panels of electric vehicles with their own hands
Installing solar panels will be used as passive energy for backup battery accumulation. Places they choose very diverse. Naturally, it is worth placing them in places on an electric car with good access to sunlight (found when the masters creating an electric vehicle with their own hands place them even on the mirrors of turn signals). Why not?
Step 7: Connect the ignition to the starter
The starter activates the motor when the key is rotated. This will act in the same way as the ignition lock is acting. You will need to repaid ignition so that it turns on the starter of the electric vehicle. To do this, connect the wires to the electric system of the car and the fuse block. You will also need a pedometer that connects to the throttle and the cable of the gas pedal. This wire connected to the controller and gives it a signal when it is time to start the movement of the electric vehicle. This is a fairly important item that may be needed when creating an electric vehicle with your own hands. .
Step 8: Just buy a set for converting a simple car into an electric car
And not buy all parts separately. You can purchase a set to convert an ordinary car into an electric car with your own hands. It will have all the necessary components, and they will be 100% designed for collaboration. However, such sets are usually not universal for all cars. You will still need to make a lot of items, in case the kit does not come up for your car.
It is always interesting to observe the changing phenomena, especially if you are involved in creating these phenomena. Now we will collect the simplest (but really working) an electric motor consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of the wire, which we ourselves.
There is a secret that will make this set of items become an electric motor; The secret that is simultaneously smart and amazingly simple. That's what we need:
1.5V battery or battery.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
Magnet.
1 meter wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of uninsulated wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
We will start with winding the coil, that part of the electric motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently smooth and round, we wock it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on a battery of AA sizes.
Leaving free 5 cm wires from each end, we wock 15-20 turns on the cylindrical frame.
Do not try especially tightly and smoothly wind the coil, a small degree of freedom will help the coil better to preserve its shape.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to keep the resulting form.
Then wrap several times the free ends of the wire around the turns to preserve the shape, observing the new bonding turns to be exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this: 
Now the time is the secret, the features that will make the motor work. This is a secret, because it is an exquisite and non-obvious reception, and it is very difficult to detect when the motor works. Even people who know a lot about the operation of the engines can be surprised by the motor's ability to work until it detects this subtlety.
Holding the coil vertically, put one of the free ends of the coil on the edge of the table. Remove the upper half of the insulation, leaving the lower half in the enamel isolation.
Do also the same with the second end of the coil, observing the uninsulated ends of the wires to be directed up the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this reception? The coil will lie on two holders made of uninsulated wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery, so that the electrical current can pass from one holder through the coil to another holder. But it will only happen when uninsulated half of the wires are lowered down, touching holders.
Now it is necessary to make support for the coil. These are just turns of the wires that support the coil and allow it to rotate. They are made of uninsulated wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they should deliver to it electric current.
Just wrap every piece of uninsulated wire around a small nail - and get the desired part of our engine.
The basis of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. It will be a suitable base, because when the battery is installed, it will be difficult enough for the electric motor to be trembled.
Collect five parts together, as shown in the picture (at the beginning without a magnet). Put the magnet on top of the battery and carefully push the coil ... 
If everything is done correctly, the coil will start to rotate quickly! We hope that you, as in our experiment, everything will work the first time.
If still the motor did not earn, carefully check all electrical connections. Does the coil rotate freely? Is it easy to closely located magnet (if not enough, install additional magnets or cut wire holders)?
When the motor earn, the only thing to pay attention to - so that the battery does not overheat, as the current is large enough. Just remove the coil - and the chain will be torn.
Let's find out exactly how our simple electric motor works. When electric current flows on the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. Electromagnet acts as an ordinary magnet. It has the North and South Pole and can attract and repel other magnets.
Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the non-insulated half of the protruding coil wires concerns the uninsulated holder. At that moment, the coil begins to flow the current, the coil arises the northern pole, which is attracted to the southern pole of a permanent magnet, and the South Pole, which is repelled from the southern pole of a permanent magnet.
We filmed isolation from the top of the wire, when the coil stood vertically, so the pole of the electromagnet will be directed to the right and left. And this means that the poles will come into motion to settle in one plane with poles of the lying magnet, pointing up and down. Therefore, the coil turns to the magnet. But at the same time, the isolated part of the coil wire is touched by the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will be checked on the inertia further, will again affect the uninsulated part of the holder and the process will repeat again and again until the current is running in the batteries.
How can the electric motor rotate faster?
One of the ways is to add another magnet from above.
Apply the magnet during the rotation of the coil, and one of two will happen: or the motor will stop, or start rotating faster. The choice of one of two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be sent to the coil. Just do not forget to hold the lower magnet, and then the magnets jum down to each other and destroy the fragile design!
Another way is to put small glass beads on the coil axis, which will reduce the friction of the coil of holders, and also better balanced the electric motor.
There are still many ways to improve this simple design, but the main goal is achieved - you have collected and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.
Electric car with your own hands
End of the XIX and the beginning of the XX centuries - the first self-deviating crews with steam engines of internal combustion and (well, well) electric! By the way, the first line of speed in 100km / h overcame the electric car. However, then ravings developed faster and by the beginning of the 30s electric vehicles were forgotten.
Let's see the day today. Since 1988, Toyota has been producing auto-electric vehicle (model Prius). The essence is as follows: you sit down the car, turn the key, translate the control lever to the "Drive" position and immediately (!) Start moving. What are you going - you don't know. Usually, small trips occur on the electric shirt. When the machine "understands" that the batteries sat down, she itself turns the gasoline engine and charges the battery. There is an emergency case - if the batteries are satisted, there is no gasoline - you pull the red handle in the trunk and (o, miracle!) Batteries are charged, you can go.
Eco, battery, hybrid engine, starting current, homemade electric car, electric motor for car, electric car with their own hands
Such a situation was described in us, where for 4 years such a hybrid mobile is studied. This model came across in the secondary car market (approximately $ 8.5 thousand for 98? 99g.V.). Such developments have GM, and Europe has a lot of small (1-2-local) electrical hybrids used in green areas or, simply, in the golf courses.
Let us return all the same to the dominant feature of the author of the site - the desire to save.
Paying $ 8.5 thousand for the right Japanese miracle - the hand does not rise, and the wallet does not allow, and how much time, forces and money will cost to collect on their own TC on the electric shirt in the simplest version:
Estimation:
1.Kuz (at bridges, plastic, homemade, with documents) - $ 1000. - Pay attention to the weight of the design. My without the engine and the battery weighs 350kg. It is important. - A homemade plastic car is not such a big rarity, as it may seem at the beginning. More recently - in early August in the newspaper "From hand to hand" in the "Other" section, was sold. Who seeks will always find! (In the end, itches).
2. Calon. Two front seats from the Porsche 924 car, the rear seat cushion from Toyota Supra, 4m2 carpet from the store and all this is missed through the workshop by sewing covers (all sites B.u.) - $ 400. - Your fantasy may be limitless: in the country the mass of valuable wood, beautiful skin and very expensive acoustic tissues.
3.Silic unit (B.U.). Engine from a written off and almost completely ruined Bulgarian loader (3.6 kW, 84 V, 1400 rpm, 24 Nm) - $ 200. - I would prefer to use the engine 10 kW, 120 V - $ 650 - new, under warranty. (Anyone Supply Spare Parts for Loaders).
4.Akb. Seven pieces (12 V? 200 Ah), starter, Italian. In the wholesale firm - 2600 rubles / pcs, in the store - 4000 rubles / pc. - Do not try to use domestic battery - the nominal capacity you will only receive a few first time (lead for the battery should be from fresh ore, and not EE repulpring old batteries, but in our country there are no lead ores, in any case for the manufacturers of AKB). - Ideally, you need to use traction acb for loaders, but the price is 3 times higher! Why the battery is worth $ 80 for the car, and for a loader (equal capacity) - $ 250, guess yourself (not difficult).
5. The wheels are smaller width (rolling friction should be reduced to min) However, its standard load defense is indicated on the wheel, count, choose with a slight margin. The engine control unit. Options: 1) from the loader is new, relay, by 6 speeds - $ 400. 2) Thyristor with smooth regulation - $ 1100. 3) A huge reostat is the grandfathers on the Mitinsky Radine Station (you will be the only one to whom it will need) - several bottles of universal currency.
5) I personally, with 110% of the promotion of email friends, try to build an electronic control unit. It turns out - I'll tell you.
The flange, the engine and transmission (in my case - PPC VAZ 2101). Made in the right place - the company "Kardan-Balance" - $ 70. It is better to do this thing from professionals who know the automotive specifics - will tell if it is possible to do with a rubber clutch or insert a cross or still like ...
Plan-washer - engine connection and gearbox. I managed to make it yourself, but the accuracy should not be worse than 0.2 mm, or you will get tired of changing the bearing of the primary shaft of the gearbox and engine bearings.
TOTAL: 3000 $ spent approximately.
300 hours of working time of one central engineer qualification. He is a welder, he is a locksmith, he is electric. For this money and time I have: Machine 850 kg Weight (4 local), Akb 84 V x 200 A · h, Mileage 200 km. Speed: 60 - 75 km / h in a straight line, up to 90 km / h Brief (for overtaking) or under the hill. 35 km / h is rolled and accelerated to this velocity of 12%.
Technical and economic substantiation. The number of transcharge cycles to full capacity with proper use - 800 times (in advanced Italian, for reasonable money). 800 times x 200 km \u003d 160,000 km. The cost of one charging given to 1 km of the path.
(200 A x 84 c) / (1000 n) x C \u003d 25 rubles N - CPD charge \u003d 60% (0.6) C - cost 1 kWh · h (90 kopecks)
So: 12.5 kopecks / km. The cost of the battery, given to 1 km of the track. (2600 rub · 7 pieces) / 160 000 km \u003d 11.4 kopecks / km. Total 24 kopecks.
Primer VAZ 2101 with a flow rate of 8 l / 100 km, Ai 92 (10 rubles / l) 80 rubles / 100 km \u003d 80 cop / km.
Add here to regular oil replacement, filters, carburetor adjustment, ignition valves, cap. Engine repair, finally ... How much did it work out? 1.2 rubles / km and 24 kopecks / km.
In 5 (five) times cheaper, gentlemen! 5 times !!!Any questions?
One question I will foresee: "Where did you give the erected money?"
Another prime question: what will say traffic police?
Answer: I don't know yet. But there are electric cars in us, they drove on the roads. There are also electromotive at AZLK (2 models). Vases somehow, 20 years ago, ride in Moscow rechargeable. UAZ for military hospitals existed with electric motors. And even there was a car- (pardon) of the electric hole. Now there is a truck ZIL electric with very good parameters. Were they, eat, drive ... what, strictly speaking, my car is worse?
You say that this homemade body was purchased ready. Is it known at all who did it, what is his story?
No, the pedigree I could not get it. In the past (2003), we communicated with algebraic (Brothers Y. and S. Algebraic - famous in the USSR homemade workers who created the car "Yuna"), he tried to remember with friends who did this car, but they did not succeed .
I got this car through the "tenths" hands. And at that time I was going to do an electric vehicle in some small, light body, for example, on the basis of "Oka". And here, just after the first "autoexotics", in which we participated with our converted Zaporozhet (with a BMW-Shnya chain), our familiar Yuri came to us, who gloves a plastic jeep herself, and suggested to take this body from him. I came to look at this homemade, appreciated her weight qualities and realized that this is what I was looking for. The most suitable platform for the electric vehicle. This fiberglass body is based on a kilogram of 200 lighter than the basic "Zhigulevsky".
By the way, the question about "base". What is this body? Fiberglass on the frame?
It is the "Zhigulevskoye" bottom with wheel arches, cursed in a glass fiber from two sides, so as not to rot (she has been held for 20 years ...), on all this is welded with square and, places, round tubes. Outside it is all glued with fiberglass panels.
And the bottom is somehow reinforced?
No, absolutely standard, the frame of the pipes on it is only on top.
So, you got a "base". What's next?
I began to make an electric car. The business is young, there is no patience, so I did not invent anything and tried to use standard components as much as possible. Traction motor - from the Bulgarian loader, a passport capacity of 3.6 kW. At the same time, in acceleration with good dynamics, he develops painlessly for himself up to 15 kW. From this advice to everyone who will do something like this: when choosing a motor, it is necessary to take into account its overloading abilities.
Yes, when I tried to figure it out, I found domestic motors - DPT-6. They are 6 kilowatts and also designed for the loader ...
In my case, 3.6 kW on turnover and gear ratios of the 4th transmission of the checkpoint and the rear axle should be achieved by 1400 rpm of the engine, which corresponds to the speed of 44 km / h. So it turns out: when I'm going about at such a speed, I see 50 amps on an ammeter at a working voltage of 80 volts. Thus, I have 4 kW and efficiency \u003d 90%.
I made some calculation at your leisure. If you take the VAZ-2108 with a weight of 920 kg and a capacity of 57.2 kW, then we obtain the ratio of the mass to the power \u003d 16.1. With the weight of your car in 850 kg and the power of 3.6 kW we obtain the same indicator \u003d 236.1.
Yes. I, when I started to build an electric car, made a similar calculation and was horrified. And therefore left the gearbox - on the first and second I will come in any way. Plus it saves me that the real starting power of the engine is higher than the passport.
By the way, there is no clutch. How do you manage to include transfers?
And then there is no idle. When switching transmission, the Synchronizer "pulls" the engine anchor to the desired speed of rotation. The only inconvenience is to switch the gear slightly more than with clutch.
I hoped that with a new pulse unit, which I put on my own electric car, it will be possible to immediately turn on the fourth and touch it - but, alas, the power is not enough. Therefore, I'm talking to the second in the city now, and when moving I use the fourth.
How with charging time?
Batteries are charged with a regular charger current equal to 10% of the nominal capacity, somewhere overnight. Now I am under the order a new control unit is being developed, which himself will charge, then move to the boiling mode - "digesions", and then turn off the charging and remain in the "waiting" mode. I have acid accumulators, ordinary, - they are reasonable money. Special traction batteries by a third are heavier and are inconspicuously expensive, so I refused them.
At the same time, for standard 200-ampere batteries, the discharge current is not very large - 50 amps. At the same time, if we take that the real capacity of the non-new battery is 170 amps / hours, we get at least 2.5 hours of confident stroke.
Clear. So you have two batteries in front and ...
... and five from behind. Just 200 amp. The engine is designed for 80 volts, I applied 84. Checked as it would lead yourself to 96 volts - it turned out much more fun. In general, I am satisfied with the engine - "overload" he keeps well. Enough "oak", wiring from a thick wire, everything is "glazed", etc. I can accurately say that you need to go to Volt 120 - to switch not such big currents. The motor control unit now was developed for a year and a half until he began to work in adequately and not burn.
Thyristor?
Her-takes. On 8 field transistors standing in parallel. With thyristors there is a problem with a constant current. A variable is not a problem, but on constant current, a thyristor is difficult to close after the "breakdown". Another high plus field: there are several volts on a thyristor, and only 0.15 V. Plus in the perspective - the use of recovery.
And how in winter?
Yes, the battery capacity drops, but when driving, they are a little heated and the problem should be solved by itself. There is another question - with the stove. I consider gasoline to put the gasoline. There is a thought to use for heating or cooling salon The principle of a vortex pipe, which only a fan is needed for work. Now I think about the adaptation of this device for your car.
On this machine I even managed to ride, sitting at the wheel. By the way, it accelerates quite acceptable. True, when I clicked Gas to Paul, Vladislav still asked me to look at the ammeter so that it was not a big starting current. For me, there was still a problem with the lack of clutch. Well, I'm not used to automatic checkpoint. And then the brake pedal is made by combining the "classic" pedals of the brake and clutch ... After the stop, you need to put the car on the handbrake - the electric motor, unlike the MOD, does not hold compression.
In general, quite pleasant sensations remained from the electric car. Of course, on dynamics and mileage on one "refueling", it is significantly inferior to gasoline. But, but what kind of savings!
