Hello, dear readers and visited the blog Avtohyd.Ru. Today in the article we will look in detail how the noise insulation of the doors of the car do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, and everyone, if desired and the absence of laziness, will be able to perform work as high quality and quickly.
Do not burn the gods and therefore do not need to grasp the difficulties. Always then it will be possible to boast of friends or relatives about the noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands. For new cars, do not need to sound insulation doors. They are in excellent technical condition and car mileage are minimal.
We need noise insulation machines used already sinceching not one hundred thousand kilometers. The first doors of the car begin to skip noises while driving. It acts on most drivers the presence of extraneous sounds annoying. At the first appearances, the problem does not need to postpone its decision in a long box. We must immediately begin to increase the noise insulation of the doors of the car.
Why is the insulation of the car violated?
The use of the car is not always on high-quality asphalt coating. Often you can see the cars carrying the distance and bouncing on the irregularities of the ground road. The poor-quality road covering not only checks the car suspension, it leads to the emergence of the strongest vibration.
Frequent trips to bad roads are fraught with the fact that the fastening elements of the doors, the hood, the trunk and other elements of the body are starting to expose vibration. Of course, for the first or second year of the operation of the car, they cannot manifest themselves, but through the heels of the years will let them know about themselves by the appearance of extraneous noise in the car.
Even the highest quality and expensive car is not protected against the insulation of the cabin. The first doors begin to "noise". By virtue of their frequent use of opening and closing, the integrity of the fasteners and fixing elements is broken. Often, many manufacturers pay minimal attention to the soundproofing of the car doors. The quality of protection against penetration of foreign sounds leaves much to be desired.
That is why the doors of the car are a weak link and first begins to skip outsided sounds. Do not be upset, noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands with proper preparation, does not take a lot of free time. It is necessary to prepare to prepare and you can proceed to work.
The car body is not only the protection of the driver and passengers. He is the real obstacle to penetrate outsiders in the vehicle salon. It must be remembered that the body of the machine is not a one-piece design. It includes many elements and doors including.
Car manufacturers pay special attention to sound insulation of the car. It must be remembered that it directly affects the level of comfortability of a car. The operation of the machine leads to what the insulation of the cabin suffers and decreases. Foreign noises begin to annoy the driver and to some extent affect the safety of the road.
Correctly performed noise insulation of the doors of the car with your own hands makes it possible to reduce the level of noise inside the cabin by 30-40 percent. These are quite large indicators that increase the comfort of driving a vehicle. It is important before starting work to prepare the necessary materials and tools.
Noise insulation of the car doors with its own forces can be divided into several main stages:
Disassembly doors.
Perform work is necessary in a well-lit room. You need to open the doors of the car and proceed to dismantling the trim. The process is quite tedious and takes a lot of free time. You must unscrew all the screws and carefully remove all the clamps.
When disassembling the door, you do not need to hurry, as it is quite high likely to damage the mounting elements of the door weft. Removing the trim, it is advisable to remember the disassembly process. It will be needed later when you need to install everything in place.
After the car's door trim, you can not dismantle the glass lift mechanism. It will not interfere with the work on the noise insulation of the doors. The mechanism of opening and closing doors can not be removed similarly.
Removing factory isolation.
In the second stage it is necessary to remove the material of the factory noise insulation of the car doors. Due to the age and exposure to external negative factors, it is outdated and no longer can be used.
In addition to removing the soundproof material, you need to remove the anti-corrosion protection of the metal metal. Ultimately, it should be pure from any metal materials. Before the next stage of the noise insulation of the doors of the car on its own, the working surface should be deguted to ensure reliable fixation of the soundproofing material used.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car.
To improve the soundproofing capacity of the automotive door, its inner surface must be placed by a special vibration-fixing material. Usually used Vibroplast or other material similar in its properties.
It is necessary to glue them the maximum possible interior area of \u200b\u200bthe car. Be sure to pay attention to all technological niches or holes. If they do not stick them, they can become sources of penetration of sounds and then all the work will go to the cat under the tail.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car significantly improves the acoustic properties of the cabin. To enhance the sound of full-time speakers, in front of them in the doors, glue the elements cut from the vibroplast cut into the door.
Fully accumulate the entire surface of the door with the material for sound insulation is not worth it. Vibroplast As if the sponge absorbs moisture and therefore can create excellent conditions for the development of the corrosion process. In the door begins to accumulate and gather moisture.
All technological openings of the door doors are sealed with vibroplast from the inside. The most important thing is not to overdo it and do not use an excessive amount of material. Some car enthusiasts thereby disturb the operation of the mechanism of the windows and locking the doors. No need to forget that a large amount of material is driving the automotive door. Thus, you can disrupt the operation of the door opening and closing the door.
After the inner surface of the door is saved by vibroplast, you can proceed to apply the following material. Used Bitoplast Thickness at least 10 millimeters.
Noise insulation doors.
After completing work with the inner surface of the door, you can proceed to the trim. Many do not pay proper attention to it and is committed at groundless. The door cover also needs insulation. The entire surface of the sheathing experts are recommended to pass by the Bitoplast. According to the contour of the casing, where the material serves can be triggered.
The finishing final stage of the noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands is the assembly to the initial state of each door of the car. In front of this, windows, opening and door closing mechanisms are subjected to performance.
All materials used for soundproofing the car must be prehered. If there is no professional construction dryer, you can use an ordinary home for drying hair. The preheated pre-material is better stacked and glued to the metal surface.
If, when opening or closing the door, the symbols are clearly listened and other outside sounds can be used to remove squeaks. Bitolone. A fairly convenient and effective means to eliminate squeaks. This will make it possible to make the process of opening and closing the doors almost silent.
Why do you need to make noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands?
After a few years, even after buying a new car, extraneous noises can appear inside the cabin. If at first they do not cause a special concern from the driver, then over time after the amplification, they begin to annoy quite strongly.
Conducting noise insulation of the machine will significantly increase driving comfort. Often, extraneous noises distract the driver from driving a vehicle. All this negatively affects the safety of driving a car. Strengthening sound insulation will give the opportunity to reduce the risk of an accident.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car will significantly increase the acoustic capabilities of the vehicle salon. Music sound quality will increase. After performing the work, all rattling sounds and vibration arising during the movement of the vehicle will disappear.
No need to forget that the noise insulation of the doors of the machine has a positive effect on reducing heat loss. In the car, even with the engine turned off, a positive air temperature is retained.
Means for conducting noise insulation of the doors of the car do it yourself
Today on sale you can find a large amount of means of sound insulation of the inner surface of the car door. They differ among themselves by price and quality.
The following popular sound insulation materials can be distinguished:
1.Vibroplast Silver 100, the cost of 0.5 m² of $ 7-8 $ dollars.
Durable and convenient material for carrying insulation of automotive doors. The average sheet size is 0.5 m². Mass of one sheet up to 1.5 kg. To achieve the maximum result, the processing area must reach up to 80%.
It has a high ability to vibrating umbilted. Before starting work, it is necessary to heat the surface of the material with a hairdryer. The average thickness of the material is 2 millimeters.
2. Circle vibrate standard, cost per 0.3 m² material 4-5 $ dollars.
Unfortunately, the installation of car audio requires its approach in noise insulation doors. Standard generally accepted noise insulation here will not work because Principles in the approach and requirements are completely different. Today we will have not only the theory of noise insulation of the front doors for the installation of car audio, but also small photos of practical examples. I will try to tell you not only the theory how to properly prepare the automotive door, but also how to practically apply our theory in fact. Let's start talking about what conditions we need to follow, whatever our car midbas play at the door with maximum efficiency.
First, the speaker should be hard and firmly fixed in the door.
If he is dangling, then our speaker will lose very much as a sound and we will get extra rattling and so on.
The second point is that the speaker must have a sufficiently free passage of sound in front of them. That is, if we have a certain mesh, regular, then it should be enlightened, in order to have anything to play anything to play anything, and in order to drive out and air and reproduced the sound without loss, and the air does not I got under the trim, so that our covering again did not rattle again.
Also, it is important to take into account under what conditions the speaker plays back (inside the door). If the speaker is installed in some kind of podium or in a number of spacer rings, they must go to the extension from the speaker back. This will allow the air behind the speaker to pass freely into our volume door.
An important point will be what the volume plays the speaker. At home, our speakers play some volumes sufficiently small compared with the automotive. In a car, this is a volume on average from 30 to 50 liters depending on the car, while this volume is not sealed, it has a series of drain holes below, it has other holes for air output, in case the speaker will actively work on bass And actively compress-squeeze the air, which is in the doorway.
But the key point is to preparing doors, as for the volume on which the speaker works - it is not even the volume itself, and how much this volume is hard, how much the walls of our actual cabinet under the speaker, which we build from the door or body will be tough and As far as they will provide the dynamics, high return, especially in the low-frequency path.
So, in order for the speaker to play well in the door, we need to provide free air stroke before the speaker, the free move of the air over the speaker, to ensure the rigidity of fastening the dynamics itself and the rigidity of the volume to which the speaker plays. Of course, there is still such a factor as the coin the dynamics, and sometimes the recycling of the speaker can play in plus and in minus, but about it will be a separate release.
Now, let's try our theory to apply in practice. And I will give you an example of the usual noise-vibration insulation of the door, with which 95% of cars tend to drive. And I will also tell you why it is not optimal, not correct and not suitable.
Suppose we have a certain door, standard, our car door is divided into 3 parts:
1. It is an external part, the outer part of the metal
2. The middle part of the metal or the mounting panel.
3. Testing.
The speaker must be installed so that he would play on the volume between the outside of the door and medium. That is, in the box, which we build on which the speaker plays is the volume that we get between the outside door and the middle part of the door (or the mounting panel
If we take the average door, then usually how it is done:
If we take the average door, usually how it is done: a certain layer of vibration insulation in 2-3 mm is placed on the external part of the metal. After that, this layer of vibration isolation is pasted some noise-eyed material of the SPLAN type. Further, on the middle of the door there is also a certain layer of vibration insulation, then a noise-canceling material is placed on the trim, or which is a porous material of the adhesive paralon type.
The speaker is installed on the primitive spacer or directly screws to the door and the plating is put in place without changing the lattice itself.
So, with regard to the outer part of the door - in the standard embodiment, this is a layer of conventional vibration insulation and a layer of noise reduction material. By and large, such registration of the outside door is incorrect. Vibration isolation is the usual, which we pasted on the external part of the door - it is not enough to gain sufficient stiffness from the door. At a good temperature on the street in the sun, this vibration isolation will become soft and its properties will lose particularly on stiffness. Therefore, in order to work with a car and make the right door preparing - it is desirable to use vibration insulation that requires heating with a technical hairdryer before rolling it. This vibration insulation has many brands - almost all manufacturers who are in the domestic market. It costs a little more expensive, but the difference in price is completely insignificant. And you will spend some money to get a full-fledged return from your sorry system - in my opinion it is not a big spect.
Well prepared external door will make your car quiet and outside.
That is, listening to music loudly, it will be heard much less "outside."
Many scares that the door with an abundant amount of vibration insulation - provisive.
In my practice, I did not meet this. And even even submit that this will happen - then loops are tightened.
In fact, we must apply vibration insulation on the outer part of the door, which requires heating, can even be made in 2 layers.
First of all, to understand how many layers you need, you need to pay attention to how loudly you listen to the system and the louder, the more carefully you need to approach the preparation of doors. And the second point is a skill thin outer metal in a car. The car is modern, the more its metal resembles foil.
Therefore, to process such surfaces it is better to do without one layer of vibration insulation, but two layers. Vibration insulation is worth taking with a thickness of 4 to 5mm. After you have processed the door to some rigid vibration insulation, which will allow you to remain hard with metal and vibration insulation, even with a strong heating in the sun, while ensuring the maximum return of the Midbas's work - you will receive the maximum return on the dynamics and its proper work.
Many will try to stick a soft noise-repeating material over this vibration insulation - I do not recommend doing it. Such material worsens the quality of the dynamics. In love, this is an extra work, extra spending, and most importantly - this will not suffer this and will even cause harm.
If you have already made some vibration insulation in a car, for example, a layer of conventional vibration insulation that does not require
heating and you need to finish the door, then you need just over the layer, which is available, paste more
rigid vibration insulation. In this way, there is actually 2 layers, and the fact that one of these layers will be soft enough when heated is not the most critical factor. The second layer will correct this flag. And that is more than enough for a very powerful low-playing Midbas.
There are often cases when people, in addition to vibration insulation, are placed on an external part of the door an additional aluminum profile, in order to make the door to give stiffness. I spoke, 2 layers of rigid vibration insulation, so make the door concrete, that these manipulations are certainly damaged, but there will be no significant benefits or returns from them, therefore, it is at your discretion, but for mine .
As for the middle part of the door, or if we put on the other - the mounting panel, it can be divided into 3 types:
This is our classic middle part that contains a certain hole under the speaker, and also contains some technological holes on its surface.
The second view is when this door has a second hole under the speaker, and the rest is solid, without any holes.
And the third appearance is when there is simply no average door, but on the fact it is put on its external part.
As for the third option - it is the most deplorable, since the options make a prompt high-quality sound will not work or have to go to many compromises. You can try the middle part of the door from the sheet of any metal or fiberglass, that is, actually re-make the new design door, which is a very time-consuming process and it is possible that on many cars it is simply impossible to do physically.
Or the second option is to try the most and hard and hard to hang our trim, whatever it is as heavy as possible and tough.
In any case, this version of the door execution for auto sound is not good. If we speak about the middle part of the door, which has a hole under the speaker, and the rest of the surface - solid or holes is practically no, then in terms of sound quality, which we can achieve is the most optimal option.
In order to prepare such a mounting panel - quite simply some vibration insulation, it is desirable to be rigid enough that the middle part of the door, which is also the wall of our drawer, would be the most hard. Just to rotate it with ordinary hard vibration insulation - it will be more than enough to get the maximum effect and maximage return on the potential of our Midbas.
And in the event that our middle door has some holes in addition to the hole under the speaker,
need something to do with them. In the usual version, these holes simply stick with vibration insulation and leave them not touched. In fact, when the speaker starts to play, even if it is not the hottest weather, that part of the vibration insulation, which passed on top of the hole will start playing along with the speaker and the speaker will begin to squeeze this vibration insulation - it will lead to the extra lose of the trim, and also worsen the low-frequency potential of our The dynamics is very strong.
The best way to get out of the situation is to overlap these holes with certain materials. There are many options here - someone will apply some aluminum plates that are cut down on the shape of these holes and stick them to the hemostrapy or fasten with bolts, someone works with fiberglass. And perhaps more than any alternatives with some textolite or subtle, but tough plywood sheets. According to: In the middle of the door you must leave the only hole - this is a hole where our midbas is installed.
All other holes should be blocked, as much as possible as possible. If you have some non-large holes, through which some traction can be held and other mechanisms associated with the car functionality, then they are allowed to be allowed - the main thing is to ensure their small size.
After our door was blocked by all sorts of plates, we are already on top of glue our hard vibration insulation and we get a line in which our midbas will work. And this box, despite the fact that there is some additional drain holes inside the door - it will still remain hard and we will get from our midbas maximum return, high-quality, loud, on a low-frequency path.
If we perform vibration insulation as "generally accepted", then our Midbas, besides what will play and the external part of the door, will also have a vibration insulation, which is pasted on the top of the holes - to squeeze it, and actually the speaker will begin to "fail" . Its potential in the low-frequency path we are very strong and dramatically lost. Of course, if you listen very quietly, then often this vibration insulation may be enough. But if we have a system that can play on average volume and on high volume, then it is better to provide the door to the maximum possible preparation.
As for the objective: with the standard version, it is pasted on it at best, some noise insulation and the casing stands in its places - this is not entirely correct.
The fact is that many plates contain sufficiently large flat surfaces. These surfaces can be included in the resonance with Midbas and publish all sorts of sounds and pride. Optimally, this whole, this weeding is to cry for some vibration insulation, not necessarily even tough (enough 2-3 mm), sneak places or completely. After that, if possible, as much as possible, paste noise insulating material.
If the skin is fastened badly because we have blocked a lot of noise-based materials, then
try to get out of the position using the use of so-called disposable anchor-type pistons.
It is not an expensive pleasure that is sold in almost any parts of the spare parts, but at the same time the casing will be snapped as much as possible and rigid to the middle part of the automotive door.
Please note that if we set the speaker to the regular place, it starts playing through the standard grid of our skin. Often, these grids are so deaf, and in some cases have a smaller radius of the holes than the speaker itself, which is installed behind the door, then we need this grid to finalize or completely cut and put a non-free "grill", or enlighten those holes that We are.
On the aid of such operations comes an ordinary radio, which, if you enlighten a regular grid, ugly will help to avoid challenges with an external not beautiful mesh view, which would have happened. Please note that the speaker must be installed as close as possible to this hole (to the grid). At the same time, consider that the speaker has a certain move, it should not beat on the sheel itself.
When you make a spacer ring and if it turns out to be sufficiently significant in depth - it is advisable to make it on the extension that the sound from the dynamics calmly passed inside the door without restrictions and obfusions and without a "tunnel effect" when the speaker is installed in some pipe.
Often, at the same time, you can find a situation that a regular hole in the car under the speaker in itself has a very not large size. At the same time, the speaker is greater than this hole inherent on some simple rings. Thus, if you do not modify this hole and do not expand it, then you can get the effect that the air flow, which will go back, will not fall inside our volume, not inside our housing, but will fall just in the face of a small hole, which Sdleano under the speaker. If possible, such holes need to be refined and increased.
As for all sorts of acoustic lenses, which are glued behind the dynamics inside the door.
There are very many different opinions about this. And I have it. I conducted experiments with all sorts of lenses and no significant influence from them and difference I did not get any difference. That is the sound did not become, no worse, no better. Or if it became, then it was on the verge of some nongons, which are not even audible in the car.
So, our promotional trained car door should look like:
- This is an exterior of a metal part for which rigid vibration insulation is pasted, perhaps even in 2 layers.
This is the middle part of the door or the mounting panel, where all the holes should be blocked, and this part of the door should be linked to the same rigid vibration insulation.
And our sheathing, where we enlightened a regular net, if it is deaf enough, processed as more than lectured vibration insulation and with a large number of noise-eyed material that will not only be deprived of extra noise that will go from under the trim, and will also give To the fact that we lose the extra barbell, which can be mastered
It turns out that nothing complicated in the competent preparation of the automotive door to install Midbas is not.
The greatest difficulty can cause the moment that often overlapping the hardware task time-consuming,
although not so complicated. Unfortunately, at the same time, the majority of doors, which I meet in my life, because a large number of cars arrive at the setting, including these cars are made and the owners themselves and in some expensive studios, but in practice it turns out that all doors Made not qualitatively. A good prompt trained door to train is a big rarity.
A few moments that we must take into account - the volume in which the speaker works should be tough,
the speaker should be rigidly fixed and the dynamics and nothing should interfere with either the speaker itself in
air passage or dynamic.
# car audio # noise insulation # noise insulation of doors # Shumka # vibration isolation of the car # how to tossimize the door
An important element of acoustic tuning is noise insulation of the car doors. When installing any musical system in a car, complete noise insulation if it is not necessary, it is very desirable. But the preparation of the doors of the car under acoustics should be carried out anyway. Because without this, the music will play bad.
If you do not often listen to music in the car, and the main goal with which you do noise insulation is to make a car quieter, getting rid of a significant number of external noises, then the doors should also pay close attention, because it is through them in the salon that penetrates about 30 % of all noise.
How to make noise insulation car doors?
It all depends on your goals. If you just want to achieve noise reduction while driving, you will need one way, to process the doors to the music, you will need another technique and the materials used.
Conditionally, you can select four different options for noise insulation of the doors of the car, depending on what you do it.
The first option is the noise insulation of the doors of the car is minimal.
It is not suitable for installation of acoustics. But to make outdoor noises less, it is enough. In order to minimize the doors, it is necessary to stick to the outer panel of the door, a solid layer, or at least 70-80%, vibrating absorbing material (STP vibroplast, noiseoff).
You can use a vibration-hammer 2 mm thick. And noise insulating material (accent, splang) can be pasted on the inner panel of the door card, it will reflect noise, as well as serve as a kind of dust and moisture protection. Pruning the vibration-absorbing material can be pasted on flat venue of the door card.
Such an option is the cheapest price. But this allows you to improve the noise picture inside the cabin, without spending a significant amount of money.
The second option is the noise insulation of the doors of the car medium.
It can be said that such noise insulation of the car doors is optimal in terms of price / quality ratio. In this method, more special materials are used, and they are mounted a little differently. This allows you to seriously reduce the noise from the road, and also makes it possible to install acoustics in the door and get good returns from it.
The first layer, on the outer fillet of the door, it is worth using a 2 mm thick vibrating detergent (vibroplast from STP, Shumoff M2). And in the place, which is opposite the dynamics, can be glued with a sheet of 3 mm (Shumoff M3). It is also desirable to add an acoustic lens here. On top "Vibra" can be glued with noise insulating material, and you can do without it. There is no single opinion on this.
For the speakers played well, you need to do something similar to acoustic speakers from the door. To do this, an outer vibrating detergent must be placed on the outer fillet (for example, a MP visomat), closing the technological holes.
Door cards themselves should be sampled by a thin vibration unit, the thickness of 2 mm is suitable (Vibroplast Silver, Gold, Shumoff M2). And then the entire inner surface is placed with a noise absorber with a thickness of 5-10 mm (Bitoplast from STP, Hermeton from Sumoff).
The third option is noise insulation of the car doors.
Such Used when you plan to install a powerful speaker system with good midbas on the door. In this case, the doors must be prepared for such speakers. External noise is no longer the main goal. Although with such a processing you are guaranteed to get rid of most of them.
- The first layer, on the outer fillet, you can use a vibrop absorbing material, a thickness of 3 mm (noise m3), but not thicker, so as not to grow too much doors.
- On top, it is possible to glue a leaf of noise insulating material with a water-resistant adhesive layer (Shumoff P4, P8).
- The technological holes in the inner filin can be closed with a special aluminum foil on adhesive basis, and from above to told a hard vibration, a thickness of 2-3 mm.
- over - noise insulating material, 4-5 thickness (Splang, Shumoff P4).
The door card also needs to be treated with 2 mm "Vibra". And under it glue a noise absorber, a thickness of 10-15 mm, with a wavy surface (type of germeton).
The fourth view of the noise insulation of the car doors is extreme.
It is intended for such noise insulation of the doors of the car for processing doors under powerful acoustics, the so-called "loud front". These are the systems with which the competence on the volume of front acoustics, or by sound pressure. The door is treated with the most thick and efficient materials. The risk that it will take them too much, is not taken into account.
- First, the door must be reinforced. This can be done either strips of hard "vibra", or aluminum planks, which are pasted with small gaps, to the outer panel.
- Then the thick vibrating detergent with a thickness of 4 mm is rolled between them (Bimast Bombers, Sumuloff Mix F, Shumoff Prof.).
- The next layer is noise insulation of the doors of a car or a noise absorber with waterproof glue, or latex film (Germeton). Technological windows are also closed on the outer fillet. Here you can use polyester resin or aluminum sheets. From above, they roll in thick "vibra", 3-4 mm (bimst bombs, noise m3, m4). After that, a layer of noise insulator is pasted (Splang, Shumoff P4).
- The door card is processed by pieces of vibra to get rid of vibrations and dresseng. And under it, the maximum thick noise absorber is glued, which is placed (for example, Germeton A15, A30).
The area that is covered with a noise absorber depends on how many speakers will be in the door. Since the door card may contain several midbasov, "middle", it is attached to the door of the door through bolts, and the acoustics are installed later.
Before implementing any option noise insulation of doors in the car, described here, think well which one you need, under your car and goals. Remember, no matter how well you have not handled the doors, with windows you can not do anything. And the big percentage of noise will fall into the salon through them.
A significant amount of external noise arrives through the door to the car's salon. It is after noise insulation car doors There is a tangible decrease in external noise. In addition, the doors can always be completely "to do" and do it yourself. There are no supernatural difficulties here.
Before noise insulation - disassembly doors
The first stage is a complete disassembly of the door, namely, the removal of the external sheaving. This stage is the most difficult, but not the most difficult. It is necessary to remember (and it is better to write), what kind of screw or the screw was in what a hole in order to make it easier to make it easier to build a reverse door assembly. The mechanism of opening and closing the door, as well as the device of the window regulator, can not be removed, because put them back extremely difficult. These nodes will not interfere with self-insulation doors.
The second stage it is necessary to clean the metal of the door from the factory noise insulation and the wall of the door, close to the outside - from the factory anti-corrosion processing. It is important that the surface is clean and degreased - the White Spirit will help in this. The main thing is not to scratch the paint in order to avoid corrosion.
Getting to noise insulation doors
Next follows the inner side of the door (side to the road) to plunge the vibration-fixing material. Gold Vibroplast is best suited, while you need to try to take the maximum area, which technical holes will allow in the door. It is not very convenient to be done there, so not to scratch your hands about sharp edges of the technical holes, it is better to work in cotton gloves. Door Amplifier is not needed. Currently, AERO and AEROPLUS from STP are increasingly used to vibration insulation of metal. They are easier than the Vibroplast Gold, which will have a positive effect on the resource of the door loops. The high KMP will make the door "wooden" onto a knock, close the doors will become like a car above the class with a pleasant sound "PHF" instead of BDZYN. In addition, the new Aero line has been expanded the temperature range, which is especially important for the cold season.
Opposite the dynamics, it is recommended to stick a circle from the bitoplast so that the speaker becomes better to play and the sound waves reflected from the door are not accepted. You do not need to damop the entire surface of the bitoplast, because This material absorbs moisture, and breed the dampness inside the door - the first step towards corrosion. The second layer on top of the vibration insulation used to be splated for silence, since the usual emphasis could not cope with moisture appearing in the door during the rain. In addition, on some cars, Splin 8 mm could not withstand the operating conditions and tritely dug out due to non-water-resistant glue. Now the material of the new generation is available - the focus of premium, which is completely not afraid of water: outside the material is covered with a black film, and from the reverse side, a moisture-resistant adhesive layer of green color is used. Therefore, the inner part of the door can be safely accumulated by a premium accent.
For music lovers, the use of any material (except for vibration insulation) inside the door is undesirable, so because of it, unpleasant extensions will begin to appear and the quality of music will deteriorate.
If the quality of the sound of acoustics is not important, then the entire inner surface of the door should be tightened with an accent of premium or splane on a mastic basis. It is necessary to glue the maximum slice, ideal - one whole one. Will be quieter.
Vibration Isolation of All Door Holes
Go to the inside of the door - close to the cabin. Here are two options here.
If the car is preparing for the installation of powerful acoustics, and from Midbas installed in the door, await a juicy game, then it is necessary to close the process hole in the door with a dense and solid material. Depending on the sizes of the holes, sheet aluminum or dense fiberglass can be used, which is then covered with a powerful vibro-reader, for example, bimavo bomb premium or visomat. It is important to improve the quality of the sound of music - from the door there should be something like a rigid closed box. It is important to check the performance of the door opening mechanism and windows - so that nothing bothered. The use of bimaste when embelling technological windows can significantly increase the mass of the door, you have to choose: or loops, or music.
If the sound quality of acoustics is not important, then the technological windows are closed with waterproofing: it is important that the moisture does not go into the cabin. For this will suit STP AERO: lightweight and durable to break. Many slightly glue vibration insulation is not worth it, because Increases the mass of the doors and loops may not withstand heavy loads.
There is also a compromise option applied to noise insulation of civil car doors: we close the technological holes in the Foil Watch, and then rolling the Aero Plus on it. Thus, we obtain sufficient rigidity for the acoustics of medium power, excellent waterproofing and a small increase in mass.
Then it should be saved this surface of the door to the material to the focus or focus of Premium, as a last resort - bitoplast 10 mm, making the necessary slots to all mechanisms. It should be accumulated by an area close to 100%, leaving space for wires (if the power windows is installed) and the speaker.
Noise isolation of door sheathing
It is finished with the door, go to its trim. On the surface of the trim, it is recommended to glue several pieces of vibration-pulp (enough STP Aero or Silver vibroplast) to reduce the vibrations of the trim. Special attention should be paid to the joints in plastic. Then the entire surface of the skin is covered with a biplast 10K with a margin along the edges of several centimeters. After trimming the bitoplast on the contour of the trim, it will perform the role of antiskrip - all the stuffing knobs about the door itself will disappear. Another option is possible: in the places of fitting the door sheathing to the metal of the door to the trim on its perimeter, Madeline strips are glued, and the inner part of the trim is filled with biplast.
On this noise insulation of the doors of the car do it yourself Finished, you can proceed to the installation of the trim back. On different cars, the door dismantled in different ways, but the principle is the same everywhere. With noise insulation, the doors from the splash is better to completely refuse, because Inside the door from it only disadvantages (the quality of the sound of acoustics is spoiled, it can fall off from moisture), and outside (between the bitoplast layers) it can interfere with the reverse assembly.
As a result of the "Shumkov" doors in the car, it will be sweeteringly quiet, and the doors will be closed easier by increasing the mass.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car is as important as "Shumka" of the entire car. A large amount of undesirable noise from the carriageway arrives through the doors. After the execution of this process is observed:
- reducing external sounds, most of which they create passing cars passing;
- doors are closed much quieter due to an increase in their masses;
- improving audio system.
Do not forget about the lack of a door saving due to an increase in its weight, after vibration and noise insulation.
Choosing materials for noise and vibration insulation
Vibrating absorbing materials are used to reduce "structural noise" - sounds that are obtained as a result of vibration of metal elements of the car, namely:
- engine;
- transmissions;
- suspension elements.
This will make it a good result. These materials have an adhesive basis that allows you to perform installation pretty quickly and without the use of additional funds. Also, this glue has sealing properties to protect the metal parts of the body from corrosion.
All these materials are manufactured on the basis of bitumen or mastic using aluminum foil or without it:
Sound-absorbing materials are used to isolation of foreign sounds. They are based on a foamed (porous) canvas - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of this insulator, they are with a foil coating and without it. "Accent" (an opening structure) and "isoton" (coated with metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.
The "pluses" include high thermal insulation properties, as noise and sound insulation substances have a low thermal conductivity.
Soundproofing materials are needed for car insulation from external noise. They are secondary material and are applied after vibration insulators. The main representatives of the soundproofer, which are at the heart of the foamed polyethylene and the adhesive basis are:
- barrier;
- vibroton;
- splin.
Soundproofing car door frame
Noise isolation of the doors of the car with your own hands - a process that does not take long. For him, you need to be patient and small tools:
- a set of screwdrivers to pave the door trim;
- construction hairdryer;
- construction knife or scissors;
- degreaser / dustier;
- quarrel roller;
- noise and vibration insulating material.
Correct car doors noise insulation It is also necessary to determine what to choose "Shumkov". It depends on what result you want to achieve:
- improving the quality of the audio system;
- removal of creak and vibration of metal body elements for greater comfort.
The above will depend on what noise insulation of the car doors will be used:
- minimum;
- standard;
- maximum.
Consider the option of standard door processing. For him it is necessary:
- disassemble the door, namely, remove the door trim, the protective film (if present) to get full access to all the necessary surfaces;
- next, the inner surfaces - to be treated with a solvent or degreaser so that there are no fat, dirt and moisture remains;
- after that, the first layer of vibration material of the vibroplast M1 is pasted on the inside of the door;
- the next stage of work is done - applying a layer of noise insulation. It can be splented or accent.
- the technological holes on the doors are rushed with a cut-out form with a small overlap foil aluminum ("WEK");
- after that, vibration insulation is pasted on aluminum foil (vibroplast M1). The result is one glued surface consisting of two layers.
When performing all operations, the main thing is not to violate the proper operation of all the thrust and cables, as well as electrical wiring.
