Applied (operational) fluids and fastened volumes. Applied (operational) liquids and filling volumes Change engine oil on VAZ 2131 independently

As a rule, drivers produce a replacement of oil in a power unit, that is, the engine on the VAZ Niva 2121 and 2131 car according to the technical inspection map or directly twice a year before the winter season and summer. In winter, oil reduced viscosity is required, so that during reduced temperatures it warmly warm up and becomes the desired viscosity. These work is most convenient to produce if the car will be drunk on the observation pit or the overpass, as well as if it is possible, you can use the lift. Prepare an empty container where the exhaust oil will merge. Next, the special key of the hexagon is required, to unscrew the drain tube of the engine pallet, as well as a standard set of tools to remove the engine protection. If everything is necessary is present, do the following sequence of actions:

He drove the car to the observation pit, disassembling the engine protective mudguard. To do this, on the perimeter, we unscrew the screws of its attachment to the body partitions and carefully remove it.

With a special hex key, unscrew the drain plug of the engine crankcase, pre-cork and the surface of the crankcase surface must be cleaned of dirt. And drain the exhaust oil from the engine. Before the oil drain, the engine must warm the five minutes so that the oil becomes hot and as a result is more viscous, which means it is better stalking from the walls of the engine.

Now it is necessary to dismantle the oil filter. To do this, seizes it with a special key and unscrew. The filter changes every 10,000 km of run. If the filter has already changed earlier and did not work out its resource, and the replaceable oil in the engine will be poured the same brand, then it is not necessary to make it dismantle.

We produce the new filter in the reverse sequence, it is necessary to pour oil to it to such an extent until it is filled by waiting for a couple of minutes until the filter element itself is soaked.

Pour new oil. To do this, we unscrew the fuel plug of the cylinder head cover.

The oil level in the engine crankcase is controlled by probe, which is removed from the guide tube and rub with a clean cloth, we set the place again and pull out. Normal is considered the level between the marks to the maximum and minimum.

On this repair work on completed. Subsequent assembly of all elements removed in the reverse order.

Filling volumes

Filed system	Volume, L.
Fuel tank (including reserve)	42 (65*)
Engine cooling system (including salon heating system)	10,7
Engine lubrication system (including oil filter)	3,75
Carter box gear	1,6
Rearm Bridge Carter	1,3
Carter steering mechanism	0,18
Carter dispensing box	0,79
Front Bridge Carter	1,15
Clutch hydraulic system system	0,2
The hydraulic system of the brakes	0,535
Windshield washer tank and headlights	2,8
Rear window washer tank	2,0
Steering Hydraussel Tank	1,7

* For VAZ-2131 cars and its modifications.

Number, L.

Place of refueling or lubrication	Name of materials
Fuel tank		Automotive gasoline with octane number 91-93, 95 *
Engine cooling system, including saloon heating system		Cooling fluid with a freezing temperature not higher -40 ° C
Engine lubrication system, including oil filter, at ambient temperature:		Motor oils (with quality level by API: SG, SH, SJ)
from -20 ° to + 45 ° C
from -25 ° to + 35 ° С
from -25 ° to + 45 ° C
from -30 ° to + 35 ° С
from -30 ° to + 45 ° C
Carter box gear		Transmission oils with quality level by API GL-5 and viscosity 75W-90
Carter dispensing box
Front Bridge Carter
Rearm Bridge Carter
Carter steering mechanism		Transmission oil 75W-90
Clutch shutdown system The hydraulic system of the brakes	0,2 0,515	Dot-3 brake fluid, -4
Windshield washer tank Head Door Washer Tank		Water mixture with glassy liquid
Leopal Ring Starter Drive
Bearings front wheels		Litol-24 lubrication or imported analogues
Bearings Cross Kardan Hinges		Lubricant Fiol-2U, No. 158 or imported analogues
Contact front cardan shaft		Lubricant Fiol-1, SCRM-4 or imported analogues
Door opening limiters		Lubrication Shrus-4
Salazki movement of seats
Steering Hinges and Ball Finns Front Pendants		SRB-4 lubricant or imported analogues
Conclusions and terminals of the battery, keyholes doors		Autosmap WTV-1 in aerosol packaging, cyatim-201, -221, Litol-24 or imported analogues
Castles doors		Lubricant Fiol-1 or imported analogs
Rear brake pressure regulator		DT-1 lubricant or imported analogues

* For vehicles with fuel injection system equipped with exhaust gas neutralizer

Fuel and lubricants approved and recommended for
operation of the car LADA 4x4 and its modifications

Automotive gasoline

Notes:

1. To ensure the start of the engine and operation of the car at low negative ambient temperatures, it is necessary to use gasoline of the respective grades of evaporation depending on the climatic area. Requirements for the grades of evacuity and seasonal use of gasoline for different regions of the Russian Federation are set forth in the relevant standards for fuel for internal combustion engines.

2. It is not allowed to use gasoline with metal-based anti-knock-based lead, iron, manganese and other metals.

3. It is allowed to use multifunctional additives that protect the parts of fuel supplies and the engine from corrosion, deposits and Naigar. Such additives must be made to the commercial gasoline by the manufacturer of gasoline.

An independent addition to the secondary additives by car owner is not allowed.

Motor oils

Mark Oil	SAE viscosity class	Group		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
		AAI	AR1.
Lukoil Luxe.	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40,15W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / CF.		STO 00044434-003.
Lukoil Luxe.	0W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-50, 10W-30	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.	LUKOIL-Permnefteorg-Synthesis, Perm	STO 00044434-003.
TNK super	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / SL / CF		TU 0253-008-44918199.
TNK Magnum	5W-30, 5W-40 10W-40,15W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / SL / CF		TU 0253-025-44918199.
Rosneft Maximum	5W-40, 10W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.		TU 0253-063-48120848.
Rosneft Optimum	10W-30, 10W-40 15W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / CF.	OJSC "Novokuibyshevsky plant oils and additives", Novokuybyshevsk	TU 0253-062-48120848.
Rosneft Maximum	5W-40, 10W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.		TU 0253-391-05742746.
Rosneft Optimum	10W-30, 10W-40 15W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / CF.	JSC Angarsk Neftechimical Company, Angarsk	TU 0253-389-05742746.
Rosneft Premium.	0W-40, 5W-40 5W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / CF SL / CF SM / CF	JSC Angarsk Neftechimical Company, Angarsk	TU 0253-390-05742746.

Continuation of table. 2.

Mark Oil	SAE viscosity class	Group		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
		AAI	API
Extra 1 Extra 5 Extra 7	5W-30 15W-40 20W-50	B5 / D3.	SJ / CF.	OAO Omsk Oil Refinery, Omsk	TU 38.301-19-137
Extra	5W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.	OAO Omsk Oil Refinery, Omsk	TU 38.301-19-137
Esso Ultra.	10W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / SL / CF	Exxon-Mobil, Germany
GTTURBO SM.	10W-40	B5.	SM.	Hanval Inc, Korea
Liqui Moly Optimal	10W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.	Liqui Moly GmbH, Germany
Mobil 1 Mobil Synt S Mobil Super S	0W-40, 5W-50 5W-40 10W-40	B5 / D3.	SJ / SL SM / CF SJ / SL / CF	Exxon-Mobil, Germany
Mobil 1 ESP Formula	5W-30	B6 / D3.	SJ / SL SM / CF
Ravenol HPS Ravenol VSI Ravenol Llo Ravenol TSI Ravenol Turbo-C HD-C	5W-30 5W-40 10W-40 10W-40 15W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF SL / CF SL / CF SL / CF SJ / CF	Ravensberger SchmiStOffvertrieb GmbH, Germany
Shell Helix: Plus Plus Extra Ultra	10W-40 5W-40 5W-40	B5 / D3.	SL / CF.	Shell East Europe Co, United Kingdom, Finland
Zic A Plus.	5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40	B5.	SL.	SK Corporation, Korea

Table 3.

The minimum temperature of the cold start of the engine, 0s	SAE J 300 viscosity class	Maximum ambient temperature, 0c
below -35	0W-30	25
below -35	0W-40	30
-30	5W-30	25
-30	5W-40	35
-25	10W-30.	25
-25	10W-40	35
-20	15W-40	45
-15	20W-40.	45

Transmission oils for use in a gearbox, handout box, leading bridges and a steering gearbox

Table 4.

Mark Oil	SAE viscosity class	Group on API	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
LUKOIL TM 5.	75W-90W-90 85W-90		OJSC LUKOIL-Volgogradneft-processing, Volgograd LLC LUKOIL-Permnefteorgsintez, Perm	STO 00044434-009 TU 0253-044-00148599
Novil SuperTe				TU 38.301-04-13
Rosneft kinetic	75W-90, 80W-90 85W-90		JSC Angarsk Neftechimical Company, Angarsk	TU 0253-394-05742746
Rosneft kinetic			OJSC "Novokuibyshevsky plant oils and additives", Novokuybyshevsk	TU 0253-030-48120848.
Super T-2 Super T-3			OAO Omsk Oil Refinery, Omsk	TU 38.301-19-62.
TNK TRAN GIONID			LLC "TNK Lubricants", Ryazan	TU 38.301-41-196
TNK trans hypoon super			LLC "TNK Lubricants", Ryazan	TU 0253-014-44918199.
			Shell East Europe Co, United Kingdom

Note. Oil change period in accordance with the car's service book.

Table 5.

Attention
Do not use oil additives or other means to improve the engine, its systems or car transmission units.

Modern highly efficient motor and transmission oils are recommended for operation of cars. Therefore, in the use of additional additives there is no need, and in certain cases this can lead to such damage to the engine or transmission units that the warranty of AvtoVAZ OJSC does not apply.

Cooling fluids

Liquid brand	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Tosol-TS FELIX		TU 2422-006-36732629.
Cool Stream Standard		TU 2422-002-13331543.
Cool Stream Premium.	JSC Tehnoform, Klimovsk, Moscow Region.	TU 2422-001-13331543.
Antifreeze Sintec.	CJSC Obninskorgsintez, Obninsk	TU 2422-047-51140047.
	LLC "TC Tosol-Synthesis", Dzerzhinsk	TU 2422-068-36732629
Antifreeze (Tosol) Longleif	CJSC Delphin Industry, Pushkino	TU 2422-163-04001396.

Note. Service life and replacement of antifreeze in accordance with the car's service book. Mixing cooling liquids of different stamps is not allowed.

Air conditioner liquid

Air conditioning is filled with ozone-safe freon R 134 "A"
Quantity - 0.4 kg

ATMOSGU10 oil is used in the air conditioning system.

Liquid for shock absorbers

Gezh-12 liquid
Front shock absorber - 0.12 l
Rear shock absorber - 0.195 liters.

Brake fluids

Table 7.

Note. Service life and replacement of brake fluids in accordance with the car's service book, but not more than three years.

Fiberglass and special liquids

Liquid brand	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Fiberglass liquids
	LLC "ASD", Togliatti	TU 2421-001-55894651
	LLC "Multinoham-Samara", Samara	TU 2384-170-00151727.
	NPP "Makroger", Vladimir	TU 2451-007-10488057
	CJSC "AO Aspect", Moscow	TU 2384-011-41974889.
Special fluids
	MOPS VNII NP, Moscow
Lukoil Azh	LUKOIL GNP LLC, Volgograd	TU 0253-025-00148599.
	f. "Varya", Nizhny Novgorod	TU 0253-048-05767924.
Pentosin Hydraulic Fluid CHS 11S	f. "Pentosin", Germany	TTM 1.97.0964.

Plastic lubricants

Mark lubricant	Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Vaseline technical VTV-1		TU 38.301-40-21
Vaseline technical ONMZ VTV-1		TU 0255-195-05767887.
Lubricant Azmon graphitol	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU at 23.2-00152365-178
Lamil lubrication	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU 38.301-48-54
Little Little	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU 38.101-1308.
Litol-24 lubrication	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK
Lubricant ASMOL LSTS-15	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU at 23.2-00152365-180
Lubricant Unirol-1	Rikos OJSC, Rostov-on-Don	TU 38.301-40-23.
Lubricant Unison 2M / 1	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK
Lubricant Azmon Fiol-1	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU at 23.2-00152365-173
Lubricant Asshol SRB-4	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU in 23.2-00152365-172.
Lubricant AZMOL SHRUS-4	OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK	TU at 23.2-00152365-182.
Lubrication Shrus-4M	OJSC "Perm Plant Lubricant and Coolant", Perm	TU 38.401-58-128.
Grease Ortol Sh	OJSC "NEMONASLOZAVOD", Orenburg	TU 0254-001-05767887.
Lubrication cyatim-201	OJSC AMZOL, G BERDYANSK, RICOS OJSC, ROSTOV-NA-DONU, OOO NPF "RUSMA", G. S.-PETERSBURG, OJSC "NEFTEMASLOZAVA", ORENBURG
Lubrication cyatim-221	OJSC AMSOLOL, G Berdyansk, Rikos OJSC, Rostov-na-Donu, OOO NPF RUSMA, G.-Petersburg

Continuation of table. nine

Mark lubricant		Manufacturer	Regulatory document
Lubricant solid molybdol m3		CJSC "Technology", S.-Petersburg
Graphite lubricant "P"		OJSC "ASMOL", G BERDYANSK
Lubricant protor		Rikos OJSC, Rostov-on-Don	TU 0254-007-05766706.
Lubricant Castrol S-058		Firm "Castrol", Germany
Molykote X-106 Lubrication		Firm "Daw Corning", United States	TTM 1.97.0115
Renolit JP 1619 Lubrication		FUSCH, Germany	TTM 1.97.0800
Lucas PFG-111 Lubrication		Firm "LUCAS TRW", Germany	TTM 1.97.0733
Washing fluids for engine lubrication system Table 10.
Liquid brand	Manufacturer		Regulatory document
Auto industry	OJSC LUKOIL-Nizhegorodnefteorgsintez, Kstovo, LUKOIL-Permnefteorgsintez LLC, Perm		STO 00044434-0122.
Oil is washing	OJSC "Novo-Ufimsky Oil Refinery", Ufa		TU 0253-019-05766528.
ROSNEFT EXPRESS.	OAO "Angarsk Petrochemical Company", Angarsk		TU 0253-392-05742746.
MP Synthetic MP Classic	OJSC Omsk Refinery, Omsk		Hundred 84035624-005

Note. Washing fluids are used for maintenance in accordance with the service book during the replacement of the working engine oil in the freshest.

Materials for anti-corrosion body processing

Fluid for refueling hydraulic steering system

Table 12.

List of products containing precious metals in Lada 4x4 cars

Product number	product name	Location of precious metals	Mass in grams
			gold	silver	palladium
2115-3801010	Combination of devices	In semiconductors	0,000263	0,016414
2105-3747010-03	Turning and Alarm Rate		0,0180561	0,0208012	0,103
2105-3709310/-01	Triple switch	Coating		0,1664
2101-3704010-11	Ignition switch	In contacts		0,14078
2105-3710010-03/-04	Alarm switch	In contacts		0,107
21213-3709607	Rear window heating switch	In contacts		0,11517
2113-3709609-10	Switch rear fog lamps	In contacts		0,115169
2104-3709612	Rear window cleaner switch and wrath switch	In contacts		0,403093
2107-3709608-01	Switch heater	In contacts		0,265997
21045-3709280	Switch heating fuel	In contacts		0,170288
2108-3720010-10/-11/-12	Braking Signal Switch	In contacts		0,1681
	Voltage regulator generator	In semiconductors	0,0534
2106-3828110	Water temperature indicator sensor	In contacts		0,0161637
2105-3747010-02/03	Relay-breaker of the direction of rotation and alarm	Gold in semiconductors, silver in contacts	0,00021	0,0731
2105-3747210-12	Far Light Far Light Relay	In contacts		0,055
2105-37470-1010-12	Middle Light Relay Headlights	In contacts		0,055
2105-3747210-02	Relay of Faroocious	In contacts		0,137
2114-3747610	Relay rear fog lights	Gold in semiconductors, silver in contacts	0,000998	0,034935

May 10, 2017

Not so much time passed since the purchase by me by New "Niva", as the figure on the electronic odometer approached 1000 km of the mileage. Many motorists know that on any new car it is at this mark that the oil change is needed in all nodes on the Niva 21214. In the case of "Niva", due to its difficult off-road "breed", such nodes will be quite a lot. New oil must be pouring into the following aggregates:

1. engine;
2. gearbox (PPC);
3. dispensing box (RCPP);
4. front axle;
5. rear axle;

The planned replacement of oil at this mark is obligatory for a number of reasons: it is not known how much how and where the car stood in stock before buying and in what condition is oil; During running a new car, all the details are "soldered", there is strong wear and development, which in turn affects the working properties of the oil, as well as sometimes contributes to the formation of a metal chip, which enters the oil, which is completely undesirable; Finally, it's just the recommendation of the manufacturer's plant. By changing the oil, you will know yourself that it is flooded in your machine and control its condition.

Choosing the right oil

So, we deal with the guarantee, but there is no desire to go to the service to replace the oil. If the hands grow from where it is necessary and there are no problems with the head - then there is nothing complicated in the oil replacement procedure. It is much more difficult to choose this oil, do not run into the fake and not mistaken with the class of oil, viscous and other parameters.
Though for "Niva" the question is not such a terrible and load on the running and the engine will not be proceedable due to the structure (compared to any BMW), but still the relationship to the maintenance of the mechanisms will directly affect durability, return and driving quality. Banally, having bought fake oil - we risk to get to the engine overhaul or at least seriously "spoil his health." Here and comes it is time to figure out all the subtleties of choosing a suitable oil once and for all, what will be written further.

In general, this topic is so common and in some sense inexhaustible, which you can write a huge treatise, and without coming to the bottom. But let's try to limit ourselves to the main moments. The main thing is that in this case we are talking about the choice of oil specifically for "Niva", so for other car stamps the tips will not be quite universal, although in many ways the same thing is the same.

Before choosing the oil, read the filling volumes for all nodes in "Niva", where it must be replaced:

• Engine 3.75 liters;
• Gearbox (PPP) 1.6 liters;
• Dispensing box (RCPP) 0.75 liters;
• Front axle 1.15 liters;
• Rear axle 1.3 liters;

Focusing on these numbers, we will buy oil with a small margin, about 1 liter to stay on the topping and for unforeseen cases. It makes no sense to buy more, because it is unlikely to need and will be just discharged money. Thus, for the engine, we need 5 liters of oil, and for all transmissions about 6 liters.

We go further. If someone does not know, then the oil happens two Types: motor and transmission. This will be a fundamental moment when choosing an oil in the store, to confuse the types of oil in no case, because They possess different properties, which is critical in our case.
Motor oil also happens two types - for gasoline or diesel units, in the case of Niva I think it is clear that we are talking only about gasoline. Here is such a set of the main criteria by which you can start searching for the right oil on the auto-shop shelf. Since the oil is imported, it does not always happen intuitive that there is something if you focus on the label. Therefore, try to avoid the words "Diesel", on the labeling of oil and carefully examine all the information.

On this trouble with the choice of oil just begins. Now we will deal with the necessary viscous oil. On the bank / packaging, two digits that reveal the essence of these parameters are usually indicated. Usually this figure looks like this: "10-W40" or various variations. Why do we need to know these values, for which they answer and what do they affect? Allowed oil - One of the most important characteristics of the oil, it essentially informs us the temperature range of the environment (not working temperature!), in which the oil "works", or retains its crude.
In other words, these figures tell us, at what minimally low temperature the oil begins too thick, and at what maximally high temperature will begin overly diluted (going beyond the working properties in each case). For normal operation and the long-term preservation of all nodes with oil, critical transformations should not occur, and should be adopted at the average level. The same parameter directly affects the oil pressure in the system and timely pumping with its pump to all parts of the engine. It is calculated solely on the basis of operating conditions, the periodicity of oil replacement, etc. If you actively exploit the car in winter and summer, while the oil replacement occurs before changing the winter / summer season, it is advisable for the winter to fill the oil with the first lower index, and for the summer, accordingly, choose oil in such a way that the second index is higher. Based on this, it becomes clear that the first figure in the 10-W40 formula is responsible for saving the working properties of the oil at low (minus) temperatures, and the second digit is responsible for working capacity at high temperatures. But not everything is so simple and definitely.
The weather is capricious and often change, often the strong frosts in the winter is no longer (of course depends on the region), and the summer does not meet the last years with extreme heat. Therefore, chasing the extreme values \u200b\u200bin the viscosity index is stupid, it is enough to choose the universal oil with averaged temperature range. In this sense, for winter with frosts, not lower than "minus 25" and for summer heat with a temperature not higher than "plus 30" the optimal choice will be the oil with a viscosity "10-W40". It is the most common and frequently found in stores and for the conditions of operation of the Niva fits perfectly. Of course, in each specific case, this question is individual and if you operate the car in the harsh conditions of Siberian frosts or the scorching African Sun, then you need to choose viscosity in strict compliance with climatic conditions. The table below lists the most common oil viscosity values \u200b\u200brelative to the temperature conditions:

There are no choice on this difficulty. Deciding with the viscosity, it is necessary to take into account the main type of oil, they are three: mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic. What are the differences of various types of oils? In general, the difference is quite clear and understandable: mineral engine oil (as can be understood from the title) is made from natural oil products (oil fractions of oil purified from impurities), while synthetics is made extremely chemically made of artificial substances (chemically synthesized homogeneous Organic compounds). Based on the above, semi-synthetic oil is a mixture of mineral and synthetic in the desired proportion (usually 50/50, although sometimes mineral prevails) to ensure the necessary work properties.
It would seem what difference and what gives one or another composition? As in any area, each oil type has its advantages and disadvantages. Initially, when the automotive industry was just beginning to develop, only mineral oils were in the go because of their availability and low cost of manufacture. But with constant improvement of engines, the requirements for oils, the preservation of their properties in various temperature ranges and operating conditions. This is exactly the impetus for the appearance of synthetic oil, which better retains all its performance, works in a wider temperature range, and also differs significantly greater durability during operation and excellent energy-saving properties. The main weighty advantage of the artificial synthetic oil lies in its chemical stability, or in other words: during operation it practically does not change its properties and thus does not lose the work-proofable state, does not turn into another substance / substance.

However, in practice it is not always appropriate to use expensive synthetic oil, especially for morally obsolete engines, not so demanding on temperature ranges and not working at the limit of their capabilities on crazy turns. This is just a clear example of a Niva car with a development engine of the 60s of the last century. Moreover, in some cases, purely synthetic oil may harm, because Due to more liquid consistency, high yield and penetrating ability, as well as a peculiar molecular composition, it is more demanding that the quality of the rubber seals of the engine, with which they are very bad at the Niva. As a result, it turns out that synthetics - butter is certainly good in all respects, it can even be said that it is in a sense ahead of time and, if not running on a fake, with a much greater probability will protect the engine in a wide variety of operating conditions.
But for the owners of the NIV, this oil (exactly like its space properties) in general is useless and will rather be unnecessary and at the same time with the risky investment. Risky because even for the new car, the likelihood that the bay of the synthetics, in the Niva, in a few days or weeks (at best) slabs flow, and this is not very good and threatens to replace these most seals along with the engine disassembly. And this oil will be useless because the engine of the Niva in general is not very and needed a shipping stock of the work properties that synthelate possesses, is quite enough of the most mediocre. Thus, the most reasonable and optimal choice for the Niva engine will be semi-synthetic oil, which has balanced / averaged viscosity characteristics and high-quality additives, but almost guaranteed to save the car owner from annoying leakage. True, the semi-synthetic oil is relevant only for new and fresh cars, and if it was very sacrificed and "tired", then only mineral oil remains the only choice. Again, the exception will be cases if the machine is operated in the rigid conditions of the external environment and at extreme temperatures - in these cases, there is simply no alternatives to synthetic oils.

With the types of oil, they figured out and realized that our wise choice for Niva in most cases - semi-synthetic. We go further, for quite free (at least for the owner of "Niva" it is in general, it is not strongly fundamentally) on canisters with butter often indicated quite valuable information, which will talk about this or that oil standards of the Unified API classification system (American Oil Institute) . This info is usually written by the smallest font on the packaging with oil, and sometimes not specified at all. But in fact, as usual, this text is most valuable for the consumer and will tell about oil accessories to a specific type, based on the existing classification. Thanks to this, we can very accurately pick up the oil for compliance with our conditions and mechanisms, as well as avoid overpayment for anyone unnecessary marketing, choosing a product with the mind. International classification API develops from 1969 to this day, almost all oils have a mark on this system, which is very convenient, because Classification includes only three classes:

• S (Service) - consists of categories of quality engine oils for gasoline engines going in chronological order.
• C (Commercial) - It consists of categories of quality and destination of oils for diesel engines going in chronological order.
• EC (Energy Conserving) - Energy-saving oils - a new series of high-quality oils consisting of low-viscous, light-flowing oils that reduce fuel consumption according to the results of tests on gasoline engines.

Universal oils suitable simultaneously for gasoline and diesel engines are denoted by two symbols of the corresponding categories: the first character is the main one, and the second indicates the possibility of using this oil for the engine of another type, for example, the SM / CF API.

If you understand this classification and completely soothe your nerves, then on the label it is necessary to search for the class S (Service) for gasoline engines. It should look like this: API SM. If you decipher for clarity, it turns out that, according to the API classification, the oil belongs to the class "S" for gasoline engines and refers to the category of quality "M". Quality categories via the API system were introduced by the letter values \u200b\u200bascending the English alphabet, starting with the letter "A". Since the introduction of the API classification, many classes are already hopelessly outdated, for example, the class "A" was in the course in the 60s of the last century. From the moment the requirements for oil and its properties increased significantly, and moral and outdated classes were output from the turnover. At the moment there are three classes:

• SJ. - oils of this category are intended for all currently used gasoline engines and completely replace oils of all previously existing categories in older engine models. Maximum level of operational properties (since 1996).
• SL. - oils of this category have the stability of energy-saving properties, reduced volatility, elongated replacement intervals (since 2001).
• SM. - oils of this category are characterized by increased demands for lubricating materials relative to oxidation resistance, deposit protection, wear (since 2004)

Dependence on advertising or how not to overpay for beautiful words

Modern people are often highly dependent on the surrounding opinion, already literally used to blindly to go on a short leash of marketing and choose the goods unlawfully, without parsing and clarify the principles of the same oil and differences from one of the other. Choosing the machine oil, they automatically fall into the tight trapping of an incorrect public opinion, based on literally in the air and on the "brainwash" advertising. Everyone has such brands on the lips Mobil1., Shell., Castrol and others. In the forums and in conversations, people also advise you to choose oil from the same brands, allegedly the most popular, in demand, and therefore "such as" qualitative. But all this complete nonsense, because Based on this opinion, not only ignoring reality, but also almost guaranteed the probability of overpaying and run into the fake, which will kill your engine or transmission.

To begin with, the reality is that almost all the oil from the existing variety of brands is made on two or three factories, the rest of the brands are simply Purchase the same oil in the same factory And sell it under its label, with his advertising campaign and at its price. All "magic" properties and future advertising technologies in most cases just a set of empty words to attract "adherents" to the bait. Then these people, not to end, not realizing, will passively promote the goods and convince others - allegedly this is the best oil! And why? The answer to this question will not follow, because There is simply no deep understanding of the issue.

In order not to depend on bad advertising and beautiful pictures, it is worth understanding and understand the only truth and stop chasing anything meaningless name, but to choose oil in a similar way with the choice of food products, namely according to the composition. And here the paradox comes - the basis of any oil and the required number of additives to ensure the required oil properties is regulated by standards (for example, the same API). And because Almost any oil is standardized, it already automatically means that almost everything is based on its same! Of course, individual manufacturers can add some additives or technological solutions from themselves, but they will not go beyond the framework of the standard (and simply cannot). But it is this basis that provides due interest to oil, which consumer awaits, and mostly the engine of the car.

So it turns out that if you approach the question of healthy and consciously, you can and you need to buy any oil, not paying attention to the brand, but focusing on normal and really important for any person criteria: low cost, compliant standards (appropriate precisely for your car and its engine) and low probability run into fake products.

How to protect yourself from buying fake oil

Before we have the replacement of oil in all nodes on the Niva 21214, it expects a responsible stage when choosing an oil, on which there is almost 80% of the successful purchase. Why is scary to run into the fake? The moment is quite obvious, since we cannot know the specific composition of the fake oil and its properties. It may happen that this incomprehensible liquid will not have lubricant properties at all and of course will rather quickly bear the engine or transmissolution.

Well now, I realized the severity of the situation with fakes, it remains only to not buy such an oil. It's easier to say than to do. If a powerful tool for combating fakes was simply major retail auto parts stores, where it seems to somehow safely and confidentially buy goods (many have become accustomed), then it does not save even it. Since shops themselves do not know what they trade. What remains to buy the buyer, trying to protect yourself from buying a fake? There are two less guaranteed methods that will help if you do not exclude the likelihood of fake oil, then at least to reduce it to a reasonable minimum. Here they are:

Thus, in order to maximize themselves to protect yourself from the fake - it is enough to be "not like everyone else" (however, this approach and in everyday life can bring "buns"). Choosing an oil that is not popular and for which no one looks at - we choose a well-wiped strategy that saves us from fakes and overpayments, because none of the scammers will simply be born with a small brand in terms of sales, because This is not automatically promised for them. By remembering these simple rules, you can forever get rid of yourself from headaches and experiences for the safety of the aggregates of your car, including in the intensive / limit modes.

A few words about choosing an oil filter for Niva

What does and why do you need an oil filter engine? Its main task, as follows from the name, filter / cleaned all the oil filled in the engine, skipping the entire volume through itself and delaying the particles of dirt and other sediments, not allowing them to circulate along with oil in the workspace. A reasonable question: how the dirt gets into the engine and where does it come from where it can appear if theoretically is the entire system of hermetic? Let's start with the fact that even in the theory, the engine is completely isolated from external influences, but in reality and practice such an ideal does not work. In fact, the engine "breathes", and many of its compounds are far from hermetic and some low percentage of dirt falls inside, even at least at the time of unscrewing the oil-tapping neck. The second point of the formation of unwanted impurities occurs during the immediate work, inside the engine itself (everything is slightly simpler with transmission, but also probably). When the engine operates in a long-term intensive load mode, then as a result of such a work, a naiga or metal chips can be formed into a consequence of contacting the rubbing metal parts.
All this nastyness, of course, falls into the cycle of the "cycle" of oil, but then the same oil filter comes to the rescue. He delays any impurities by leaving all the dirt on the filter element. Unfortunately, the described process, as always, idealized and the work of the filter is not so high-quality, but there is no point in the debris. One can only say that the design of most modern oil filters has one essential flaw, thanks to which dirt does not have time to linger during the first cold start of the car. On this account, there are still hard-to-reach alternatives, such as the experimental filters of the Russian producer "Basalt", where this problem is solved completely due to the recycled design. And everything would be fine, but I could not find the data of the filters in the retail sale of a large network of auto parts stores. They are available so far only to order via the Internet, which is also a good option.

If you abstract from these problems and simply choose the traditional oil filter for our favorite "Nivka", then there are also some nuances here. The main difference between the many modern filter elements is the quality of its main working material, and of course the size of the filter itself. All this affects the ultimate cost, and if the quality is less understandable, then what does the size affect? The size provides more efficient oil cleaning, allowing you to keep more dirt inside yourself. But for new modifications "NIV" large and volumetric oil filters should be selected with caution.
Previously need to make sure whether the filter will fit physically on its place. For this, it is enough to visually look under the hood, find the installed oil filter and evaluate the remaining free space where it is installed. The fact is that on models with an air conditioner option (like mine) and probably with an ABS (anti-lock braking system), only the filter itself is physically climbed. If you buy a filter more, then it does not get into his legitimate place, resting in the air conditioner compressor unit. Yes, inevitable problems come together with good and long-awaited technological implementation. I will write about your adventure with a larger filter.

The procedure for replacing oil on the Niva 21214th on its own

By this point, we must have purchased needed for replacement, namely: oil itself (5 liters of motor and 6 liters of transmission), a new oil filter. In the rest, of course, you will need a set of keys (I use Rozhkov and Caiden, but many more convenient to work with a "heads" with a ratchet), as well as the prepared place and packaging to drain the exhaust oil (taking into account the volumes are rather big, or a lot of small). Plum packaging is very important, because Motor oil can very much to pollute the environment and for this reason it is necessary to properly dispose of it or find a different application (for example, for conservation of boards). The process of replacing the oil itself is extremely simple and does not pay the proud, except for inexperience or due to excessively accuracy can take a lot of time. I have about the 3rd watches on the replacement of oil "in a circle", but the result remains for a long time, and most importantly confidence in it, because the work is done with their own hands, which in itself is pleasant and priceless, because Confidence will be 100% as a result, as well as the understanding that the nodes of the machine are well protected. In addition to the listed toolkit, you will need some tricky adaptation to replace oil in transmission - a special syringe. Modifications and variants of the last great set, but the essence and principle of work one. At prices: from 200 to 1500 rubles for the most sophisticated syringe, although it is the wisdom of everything, of course choose the golden middle. I, for example, bought a medium-sized syringe with a glass flask for about 550 rubles. Although he subsequently did not need it, because At the cottage, the old grandfather of the syringe with the technology of the pressure of the pressure of the pressure was discovered, very comfortable and practical in the case. Why does the syringe necessary and without it do not do? The fact is that, in contrast to the replacement of oil in the engine (where everything in general is simply clear without sophistication), the transmission is at the very bottom, on the bottom of the car. And since no one has canceled physics, the filler necks are located at the upper point of each transmission node. So it turns out that without a special adaptation, pour oil into the inside will not work. Syringe with a flexible hose without problems delivers oil "at the address" and will help pour it to "to the edges".

Now that we have everything you need, the oil replacement in all nodes on the Niva 21214th becomes finally possible and should be proceeded to this process. If you do it on the street, it is reasonable to foresee the time in advance (at least 2-3 hours) and choose a walk of the day, as well as not work at night looking. Next, I will describe my process of working on changing the oil, respectively, everything can be done by analogy. To begin with, it's a litter on the ground (those who work in the pit, there is more on the lift or the lipset).

Replacing the engine oil

We start from the engine and our task will be reached in each case to the drain hole. The engine is the most time-consuming and cost of the entire process due to the protective panels that you have to shoot on the way to the cherished drain plug.
To make it easier and more efficient to drain the oil, it is useful to pre-"drive" the car and bring the oil to the operating temperature of 90 degrees, in this case it is decently diluted and better (faster) flows from the pallet. We climb under the car and find the bolts of fasteners of the flaps. Here we will give up the keys on the "10" and on "13".
Work is more convenient. Carefully twist the bolts of the attachment of the shields (first the outside, then internal), at the same time holds protection with hand at the end. So after a while we get to the engine of the engine with a cherished cork. On the way, I personally did an amazing discovery (yes, with "Niva" do not cease to be surprised) - on the shields a decent garbage was accumulated, and a rust was discovered under it! This is despite the fact that the car is new, she is not even six months old, and I went to that time only 10! Here is such a small shock.
Well, okay, but on the panels now there are factory sound-absorbing panels, at least something has changed at the factory, it's hard to say that the car ultimately became quieter of the "old" modification "Niva". We clean the mud shields (useful prophylactic procedure each time during the oil replacement. And here it is a cherished cork with a hexagon. At this stage we substitute the container to drain the oil somewhere under the cork and slowly unscrew it with its corner hexagon key, while holding the tip.
In this case, when oil is poured, the plug will remain on the key, and will not fall into the container with oil. Well, when the cork is unscrewed, it will only be observed to be observed as usual black and dirty oil merges into the prepared packaging, the speed of this process will depend on how well the engine is warm to this procedure. When all the oil is fused, you can wait another 5-10 minutes before the last droplets are not started to drain from the pallet (it is important that the car stands on a flat horizontal surface, otherwise not all the oil will turn out of the pallet, and this is critical).
After when the flow stops, we wipe the hole and drain plug with a clean dry cloth, and immediately spin it with sufficient (but not excessive, so as not to trick) intensify to your previous place. It is useful to do it immediately to not forget. Regarding the tightening of the compounds is the golden rules of "balance" - to pull until significant resistance appears and it will become quite tight to spinning, then with this starting point, with a strength of the hands, it is two or three times (only without leverage and similar devices).

When oil is fused and plugged on its rightful place, proceed to replacing the oil filter. There is also nothing complicated in this procedure, especially if the replacement is made according to the regulations within the specified time deadlines, then the filter must unscrew the hand. In other cases, when unscrewing is difficult, you will need a special cutter, or it will be enough to break through the oil filter housing with a long slotted scope to use it as a lever. In any of the options - we turn off the filter counterclockwise and remove it, now it can be thrown away.
To replace it, we put a new one, bought in advance. Before installation it is useful to lubricate the inner sealing ring with fresh engine oil in a circle, it is convenient to do this from the tip of the screwdriver. This is done in order for the filter as closely as possible at its landing site "on the lubricated".
When installing, we also spin it only by the power of the hands, we will not need any tools. It is only worth watching the filter to wrap up with significant effort!

Now everything is ready for the fill of the new fresh oil into the engine. At this stage, it is important to remember only one nuance: it is necessary to ensure that the dirt does not get into the oil tract (like in the oil itself), even the slightest particles - it will be at least not useful for the engine, and it is not worth it to work on the oil filter. , it is better once again just to trace the accuracy of the process. For convenience, the funnel will also help, so as not to pour the entire top cover with oil and do not disparagus, although this is a matter of personal convenience. To pour the oil: we unscrew the oil-tapping neck of the engine and gently, slowly and measuredly poured the middle jet.
In the process of filling, it is extremely important to monitor the level: first we pour more than half the canister (usually 4 or 5 liters), and after we suspend the process and wait at least 5 minutes (better than 10). It is necessary to ensure that the oil is glass to the pallet, although this time does not ensure that all the oil takes to the bottom of the engine, but will increase the likelihood of this. Only after that it makes sense to check the level of the dipstick. Why is it important to control the level? He is invented not by chance and says that oil is either too small or too much. Both cases are extremely undesirable and can withdraw the engine. The most dangerous is when oils are less than you need, then the engine and its parts begin to experience oil starvation and work on dry friction, which will ultimately lead to failure, because Wear dry friction increases ten times. But no less dangerous situation, when oils more than need. In this case, there may be various consequences, from light, to heavy. In the simplest case, the oil will not fall there, where it follows, for example, pour candles or fall into the air canal. Also increases fuel consumption, because All driving components of the engine have to overcome the additional resistance of excessive fluid. In the worst cases, oil rings may fail or squeeze the glands, and this will inevitably lead to expensive repair. Therefore, the most reasonable thing is to fill the oil once and correctly, in terms of the level, so that you do not face various serious problems because of your frivolousness. The right oil level is clearly in the middle between MIN and MAX marks (50% within these values). Everything that will be thrown above and is undesirable, everything that below can also lead to oil starvation. Therefore, the balance or "golden middle principle" works well in relation to the oil change procedure. Now how to track down during the fill? As mentioned above, the bay is more than half the canister (4 or 5 liters) waiting for a while and watch the dipstick - the oil should appear somewhere at the bottom. Then again fuel some kind of "on the eye" and again control the level by a similar scheme. Ultimately, in this way, it is quite accurately possible to add oil smoothly to the middle between MIN and MAX, and calm down on it. Yes, it takes a lot of time, but the maintenance of the engine / heart of the car is more important for us, right?

After filling the oil to the desired level, we close the oil-tapping lid, do not forget to reliably insert the dipstick into place and check that everything is dry and there was no leather under the engine. It will remain only in the reverse sequence to set the engine protection to the previous place. This procedure is completed, and if it is made as described, then in the safety of the engine you can not doubt - everything will work as a watch.

Replacing oil in transmission

Describe the replacement of oil in each node of the transmission makes no sense, because The process is similar and will sufficiently understand the general principle. I started changing the oil in this order: checkpoint, RCPP, front axle, rear axle; However, the order may be arbitrary. So, as in the case of the engine, with each specific transmission node, you must first find the drain hole, unscrew it with a hexagon key, merge all the oil (also waiting for the desired time until the oil starts to drain already on the droplet). The drain hole is always at the very bottom of the node with which we work, and the fuel is always slightly higher (this is at least in order to do nothing). Drain plugs in Niva on hexagons. We unscrew the on-described principle - the corner key so as not to get dirty and not drown the plug in the container with a fused oil.
We do not forget to substitute the capacity and evaluate the oil to work out, deposition, the presence of metal chips and other mud (if this is detected, then this often signals problems). Then we wipe the cork and the drain hole with a clean dry cloth, we reliably spin back. It remains the most interesting and complex - pour new transmission oil. To do this, we will finally come in handy the same syringe (not to be confused with medical). We unscrew the fuel neck of the oil, type the oil from the canister to the whole volume (depends on the design of the syringe), and inject everything through the bay hole, trying not to shed. There are plastic syringes with large gaps or even glass with poor-quality seals, they have an eternal trouble - these are leaking oils from the above-mentioned gaps while working, try to avoid such a cheap product so that the oil replacement does not turn into a dirty nightmare, but the main thing is in aimlessly lost oil. In any case, whatever the syringe, it is necessary to pour oil until it starts poured out of the filling hole.

And here comes a subtle moment - even though it is not necessary, but it will be not bad if the oil is in terms of a slightly higher than the fuel hole. This is a somewhat strange way: closer to the end, when the oil is already starting to overflow, it is necessary to prepare a syringe with butter and a plug in the other hand, then sprinkle an impressive portion of the oil inside and straight over the flowing oil to try to complete the tube. The technology is not quite pleasant and clean, but the transmission will tell you for this big "thank you" and will remain safe for a long time. Such "overflow" is useful to arrange also because the oil in the transmission is not as much as possible compared to the engine, which means it is better to replace with special care and scrupulousness. Pour the oil just above the traffic jams can also be another, more costly way - slightly lift one side of the car by the jack (opposite plug) so that the skew allowed to do this without unnecessary tricks (or put a car on a slope, the essence of the same). Choosing a way for everyone for yourself, and not quite this is necessary, but it will help to extend the life and protect the transmission nodes in the case of increased loads (for Niva it will ride at the maximum speed or permanent load in off-road conditions at the limit of possibilities). There is also information that in some cases due to the constructive features of the gearbox, when driving at the 5th gear gear, the extreme position remains without oil and are hungry, which leads to its failure. After the bay of the oil we twist the cork and ready!

The results of the procedure

We launch the car with feeling that it washed inside and transformed, which means now ready to be new roads, but in the case of Niva and off-road tests of any complexity. After replacing the oil, you can also feel a change in motion - sometimes the car begins to ride more, smoothly, it becomes slightly quieter in the previous levels of revolutions, but all this is possible only with really high-quality oil.
True, in my case, no miracles happened, but the sense of safety of the nodes does not leave for a long time after the "circular" replacement. A few days after replacing the oil, the car is worth rushing, closely following oil spots on the surface at the bottom during the parking lot, and watching the speed of the machine at speed and most importantly, controlling the daily oil level in the engine at the dipper. Finally, I want to say: Do not forget to change the oil in a timely manner in your car and approach the question as serious as possible, because it depends not only by the overall durability of your car, but also the preservation of the original performance.

To refuel and maintain a domestic vazovsky SUV, you need to know the filling tanks of VAZ 21213 Niva and its modification of the VAZ 21214. Some figures need to know for memory, for example, the capacity of the tank and the engine crankcase. The rest should be written in a notebook that is stored in the storage box of the cabin. And it doesn't matter that you are not going to do that cars yourself, specialists at maintenance stations also may not know the filling volumes of your car.

Force aggregate

The engine installed on the modern model of the Niva 21213 car (214) was inherited from the Soviet progenitor - VAZ 2121, and in terms of the volume of liquids they are almost identical:

1. Liquid cooling system. Filled with antifreeze in the amount of 10.7 liters with a freezing point is not higher than -40 ° C. The capacity of the cabin heating radiator is also included in this volume.
2. Crankcase. Motor oils are poured here, whose brand depends on the operating conditions. Capacity - 3.75 liters, including filling the oil filter.

The degree of viscosity of the oil poured into the Niva engine should correspond to the temperature regime on the street at which the machine is operated. Possible modes and appropriate oil brands are shown in the table:

When washing the power unit in the process of replacing the liquid lubrication, the same amount of washing oil is used (3.75 l), given the filter dimensions. The replacement is carried out after 8-12 thousand km of run, depending on the quality of the oil. Flushing is usually performed after 3 replacement of motor lubrication. During operation, it is important to monitor the oil level in the motor crankcase with a special probe. If the level fell below the MIN risks, it is necessary to urgently add lubricant to the same viscosity to the engine that was charged earlier.

Update antifreeze should not less often than 1 time in 3 years or by the degree of liquid wear. It is not recommended to dilute antifreeze with distilled water or in the winter or summer. In winter, the dilute fluid can freeze, and during the summer heat boil ahead of time, which will lead to overheating of the motor.

Transmission

The transmission system of Niva 4x4 has the following filling volumes:

• dressing box - 0.79 l;
• gearbox - 1.6 l;
• rear axle - gear - 1.3 l;
• front Axle - Carter - 1.15 l;
• steering column - Carter - 0.18-0.2 liters.

As in operation of the power unit, in various temperature conditions, transmission nodes and aggregates are filled with different viscosity oils, which is reflected in the table:

As stated in the instruction manual, changing transmission lubricants must be 1 time per 30 thousand km. Run. At the same time, in the steering mechanism crankcase, the replacement is not provided for, only an additive through the upper tube. The "native" oil for the aggregates of the Transmission of Zhiguli is the brand TAD17I.

Transmission oils possess good penetrating ability. Therefore, poorly clamped traffic jams and worn gaskets of units begin to skip lubricant little. In such situations, it is allowed to add oil of the same class of viscosity and, desirable, the same manufacturer. If during leakage not to carry out a tank, then the lubrication level in the unit decreases, which will lead to the accelerated wear of expensive mechanisms.

Other liquids and fuel

Every car enthusiast should know the maximum amount of refueling its car fuel. The VAZ 21213 fuel tank has a capacity of 42 liters, including the reserve. Under the reserve, the amount of fuel remaining in the tank after turning on the yellow-color preventive lamp on the instrument panel. The value of the reserve is at least 5 liters. The car must be filled with gasoline, whose octane number lies within 91-93.

The car has a number of refueling capacities, followed by the owner must monitor during operation:

• brake system with an expansion tank, a total capacity - 0.515 l;
• hydraulic clutch drive with expansion tank - 0.2 l;
• 2 plastic tanks of 2 l each contain a supply of liquid for the windshield washer and rear window.

The clutch shutdown drive and the brake system are filled with hydraulic brake fluid (the most popular - dot-4). It should be changed at least than in 3 years, because the liquid has a property of absorbing water vapor contained in the air. As a result, all steel details of the system in contact with it begin to corrode, which leads to a complete or partial failure of the brakes.

When leakage in the clutch or brake system, the level in expansion tanks is reduced, therefore it requires constant control.

The level of brake fluid in the tanks must be maintained at least the appropriate risks on the plastic container body.

The liquid or clean water for flushing the glasses is attached, if necessary, in winter - necessarily non-freezing option. Otherwise, ice will destroy not only the tube, but also damages the electric pump.

Also for maintenance and lubrication, various thick lubricants are used:

• Litol - composition for lubricating high-loaded bearings;
• Slsus-4 - lubricant for the hinges of the front axle and door opening limiters;
• Shrb-4 is designed to process ball fingers and steering.

The list of refueling containers is useful to novice motorists who bought a used machine with a lost instruction manual. Operation of such a car just should begin with the replacement of all liquids and oils.

Regardless of the fact that the manufacturer of domestic SUVs VAZ 2121 gives certain recommendations for the replacement of oil in the car operating manual, the car owner itself decides when it is better to change the liquid. When the oil change should be conducted on the Niva, every motorist should know - we will tell about it in detail in today's material.

Good oil is not very cheap and replacement takes place a certain time, so it's not necessary to change the liquid too often. It is necessary to find a compromise and change the oil in the field with such a frequency so that the fluid does not lose their performance, but did not have to work very often.

What to take into account when choosing a replacement interval?

We recommend to read the recommendations of the automaker and find out what he talks about the replacement of oil. It is important to take into account that engineers from the factory take on the basis of averaged indicators of the operational conditions of the vehicle. These conditions may differ in a number of factors:

• air pollution;
• the quality of the fuel used;
• temperature differences, etc.

This issue is very relevant for all-wheel drive machines, which are usually exploited in harsh conditions. So, how often it should be replaced by oil in the engine of the Niva with their own hands, you need to be determined taking into account a number of features:

1. According to the service book, change the oil in the VAZ 2121 every 20 thousand kilometers of the mileage or every 12 months.
2. Oil suitable for urban conditions may not be suitable for operating cars in rural areas. Universal formula does not exist. For the manufacturer, it is important that the car sold regularly worked while it has a warranty.
3. Too long fluid replacement interval Automakers are sometimes used to attract new customers. Oil marked Longlife, which have a resource in several tens of thousands of kilometers - this is a real sell.

About Longlife motor oils

Some motorists believe the assurances of sellers in the stores that Longlife oils are excellent lubricating fluids, but they have certain features that are all complicated a little.

It should not be assumed that the replacement of oil in Niva on Longlife will save your money and extends the engine life. Similar oil should be used only in cases where the manufacturer certified it for a specific unit and when the modes of using the motor and oil coincide.

In the cities of our country, no one washes urban streets in the morning, as is happening in European countries. Consequently, the harsh performance of the engine is forced more often to change the oil in the VAZ 21214.

Experienced motorists advise to share the replacement interval recommended by the manufacturer and produce every 10 thousand kilometers.

How to prepare for work?

Replacing the oil on the Niva, as on other cars, can be made using special equipment with a vacuum method. The advantages of technology include energy savings, but there are also disadvantages. First of all, in this case it is impossible to drain all the oil without a residue. In addition, the crankcase is always going to the sediment, which does not suck vacuum.

Consequently, this express method can be used, then not every time, and alternate with traditional oil drain, we will tell you more. In the service book to the Niva, you can find an instruction on the oil plum, but it is not enough detailed.

What will required for work?

• tara for the draining of the exhaust oil;
• caid wrench for pallet bolts;
• flashlight;
• sHESTIGRANT for drain plug;
• special puller for oil filter or screwdriver.

The car must be lifted on the lift or jacks, or to drive onto the overpass. The jacks are not the most convenient option, but if there is no choice, you can not do anything.

Before the entrance to the lift, the car should warm up, since in this case the oil rolling from the engine is better due to the fact that it will be more liquid.

Merge old oil and fill new

To begin with, pull the probe from the filler neck, twisting the plug before that. Then remove the mudguard that protects the motor. Put the prepared container for the old oil - it must be with a margin to entered all the oil, and you have not shed anything. Four or five liters will be enough.

Using the hexagon of 12, it is necessary to unscrew the drain plug, pre-substituting the prepared container. Wait for the oil completely left without a residue and it will be possible to start the next task - removal of the oil filter. Try unscrew it manually, but if it fails you, use a special puller. You can also just pierce the old filter with a screwdriver and use it as a lever.

In the purchased new filter you need to pour fresh oil half and lubricate the thread with a sealing rubber band. Snap the filter on the fitting and turn it out without much effort.

Checking the oil level

Run the engine and let it work a little to go out the low pressure emergency light bulb. After that, pull the dipstick and look at what level oil is. There are MIN and MAX marks on the diploma. Check if it does not happen anywhere. In this case, you will need to tighten a stronger drain plug and an oil filter. If necessary, make oil to the maximum mark, but not higher.

If the car is old or you have not changed the oil for a long time, we recommend rinse the system before filling a new liquid. It also has to do after the engine overhaul. For flushing, you will need a special liquid or a canister of ordinary oil, which will need to drain almost immediately, and then pour fresh lubricant.