Contact ignition system. Contact ignition system Non-contact ignition systems

Its main function is to distribute high voltage across the spark plugs. It is also called an ignition distributor due to its special function. On the classic series of VAZ cars, it is mounted on the engine itself. It is located on the left, installed inside the drive gear of additional mechanisms.

General information

The body is made of special aluminum alloys. It houses the contact group. Above is a plastic cover, in which a movable carbon contact is installed in the very center. With its help, it is transmitted to the slider of the distributor of the internal combustion engine. In the very center of the distributor there is an axis that drives the contact group and the slider itself.

The distributor cover is made of special plastic. It has five pins to connect to. The center pin is connected. The other four are needed to connect to the spark plugs. With the help of a special shaft, torque is transmitted from the drive gear located in the engine block. The rotation of the shaft is carried out in a special sleeve made of cermet.

Other elements of the ignition distributor

The aluminum case includes many small mechanisms, including a contact block. It is attached to a movable plate with two bolts. The clearance is adjusted by rotating the contact block on the plate, provided that the fastening bolts are slightly tightened. Above is the slider, it is located directly on the axis of the distributor. It is worth considering the design in more detail, because the VAZ 2106 distributor is the "heart" of the ignition system.

Its main part is made of metal. But in the upper plastic cover of the slider there is a small recess, inside which a constant resistor with a resistance of 5-6 kOhm is mounted. It is used to protect against radio interference. The distributor needs constant maintenance. It must be lubricated in a timely manner, the contact group and the cover must be replaced. Cleaning the weights under the runner is also necessary.

How to replace the cover

If the movable contact inside the cover suddenly fails, or the slider breaks down (usually this happens with a breakdown of constant resistance), it is necessary to replace these elements. The slider can be checked with a multimeter. All work begins with the fact that the electrical wiring of the car is disconnected from the battery. After that, the cover is removed from the distributor and the repair of the VAZ 2106 distributor begins directly.

To do this, you need to snap off the latches. Look inside the cover and visually assess the condition of the center carbon contact. You can even try to gently move your finger to see if there is a problem. Also check the entire cover for any damage such as cracks or chips.

If there is a lot of dust inside the cover, this indicates that the carbon contact is excessively worn out. In this case, only replacing the cover will help. Although, temporarily cleaning the entire interior surface with a solvent can help. Replacing the distributor cover is not difficult, you just need to turn off all the armored wires and install them on a new one. It is worth noting that in case of excessive wear of the bushings, you only need to replace the VAZ 2106 distributor. Its price is on average 800-900 rubles.

Replacing and checking the slider

In the next step, check the slider. There should be no breaks or short circuits in it. Arm yourself with a multimeter, clean the surface of the slider from dust in advance, and also clean the metal contacts, only after that measurements are taken. Set the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode with a limit of up to 10 kΩ, connect its probes to the central and extreme contacts of the slider. With a working resistor, its resistance should be in the range of 5-6 kOhm.

If the deviation is very large, then change the slider completely. Putting only resistance is useless. The cost of a new runner is not very high, the most expensive will cost you 50 rubles. To replace the slider on the VAZ 2106 distributor, you need to unscrew the two bolts that attach it to the plate on the rotor. After that, remove the plastic distributor slider. Before installing a new one, it is necessary to lubricate the axis of the weights, before that it is imperative to clean the entire surface of dirt.

How to lubricate the distributor

Lubrication of the VAZ 2106 distributor is necessary for its correct and stable operation. This will significantly increase the life of all bearings and bushings, as well as other parts of the ignition system. Lubrication can be done with any engine oil. The main thing is to keep it clean. Of course, during work, it must be borne in mind that lubrication is performed only in those places where it is really necessary. Therefore, do not overfill the distributor with oil. Otherwise, during operation, oil droplets can easily fall on the contact group, which will certainly lead to engine failure.

Therefore, it may also be necessary to replace the VAZ 2106 distributor. And this is not a very cheap unit. First, remove the cover on the distributor, unscrew the bracket located near the left cover latch. After opening this bracket, you will gain access to the roller bushing of the distributor itself. Pour no more than four drops of clean engine oil into this hole. After that, the bracket is tightly closed. To lubricate the contact group, just apply two drops of engine oil to it. There is a special wick on the breaker cam, which must be soaked in oil. Apply a few small cables to it.

Conclusion

From the foregoing, we can conclude that the VAZ 2106 distributor needs constant monitoring, regardless of whether it is classic or on your engine. Any machine needs lubrication and cleaning. The service life of the distributor, as well as the engine, candles, coil, and all other components of the car, directly depends on this. Try to make all the necessary adjustments as often as possible. In particular, when using a contact system, it is necessary to monitor not only the closed state of the working group.

Repair of the VAZ 2106 ignition distributor consists in replacing worn parts with new ones, for this it is necessary to disassemble the distributor. For disassembly, we will need: two keys for "7", for "10", "13", screwdrivers, a set of flat probes, special mandrels for pressing and pressing bearings, tweezers.

If everything is there, then you can proceed:

First of all, we unscrew the screws that secure the rotor to the distribution plate and remove it.
After removing the rotor, mark with a marker all the springs and weights of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator so as not to confuse them during assembly. After marking, pry the springs with a screwdriver and remove them.

Next, it is necessary to disconnect the wires of the capacitor and the ignition coil, for this, holding the nut on the movable contact screw, it is necessary to unscrew the wire fastening nut.
Disconnect the capacitor by unscrewing the screw securing it to the distributor housing.

Remove the terminal block by unscrewing the two fixing screws. Next, remove the lock and insulating washers from the contact group. Pry the insulating washer of the spring plate with a screwdriver and remove the movable contact from the axle.

Further, from the axis of the movable plate of the ignition distributor, it is necessary to remove the lock washer of the rod of the vacuum advance regulator and prying the rod with a screwdriver.
After unscrewing the screws securing the vacuum advance regulator from the distributor housing, remove it.

Place the distributor in a vice and press the slinger clutch retaining pin out of the distributor shaft. We remove the clutch together with the washer and take out the roller from the distributor body.

We unscrew the screws securing the bearing locking plates and remove them, after which we remove the movable plate assembly with the bearing from the housing. It is most convenient to remove the lock plates with washers with tweezers.

This completes the disassembly of the distributor. it is necessary to start after carrying out a visual inspection of all its parts and, after detecting various defects, replace worn-out parts with new ones.

Using a capacitance tester, check the capacitor, its capacitance should be 0.2-0.25 μF. If there is no device, then it is better to replace the old condender with a new one, they are not expensive for the money.
Check the condition of the distributor roller. There should be no traces of obvious working out on its surface. Replace it with a new one if necessary.
Check the condition of the diaphragm at the vacuum advance angle adjuster. To check it is necessary to press the rod and plug the fitting, if the diaphragm is in good working order, it will keep the rod pressed.
Check the status of the contacts. The contacts should not have any traces of sticking, the planes should be flat and not baked. Clean the contacts with a file. The use of emery cloth is not allowed. After cleaning the contact surfaces, rinse them with clean gasoline. If it is not possible to get rid of the traces of burning, replace the contacts with new ones.
Also replace the bearing (bushing) of the distributor housing if it has traces of wear. For extrusion of press fit, use mandrels of suitable diameter.

Assemble the ignition distributor in the reverse order to disassembly. After assembling the distributor, adjust the gap of the breakers contacts (see.

The distributor can be safely considered an outdated element of the sparking system, since it is absent on modern cars. The functions of the main ignition distributor (the technical name of the distributor) of gasoline engines are now performed by electronics. This part was massively used on passenger cars of past generations, including the VAZ 2106. The disadvantage of switchgears is frequent breakdowns, a clear plus is ease of repair.

Purpose and types of distributors

The main distributor of the "six" is located on a horizontal platform made to the left of the valve cover of the motor. The splined shaft of the unit fits into the drive gear inside the cylinder block. The latter rotates by the timing chain and simultaneously rotates the oil pump shaft.

The distributor performs 3 functions in the ignition system:

at the right moment breaks the electrical circuit of the primary winding of the coil, which is why a high voltage pulse is formed in the secondary;
alternately directs the discharges to the candles according to the order of the cylinders (1-3-4-2);
automatically adjusts the ignition timing when the crankshaft speed changes.

The spark is supplied and the air-fuel mixture is ignited before the piston reaches the upper extreme point, so that the fuel has time to fully burn out. At idle, the lead angle is 3-5 degrees, with an increase in the number of crankshaft revolutions, this indicator should increase.

Various modifications of "sixes" were completed with different types of valves:

VAZ 2106 and 21061 were equipped with engines with a working volume of 1.6 and 1.5 liters, respectively. Due to the height of the block, distributors with a long shaft and a mechanical contact system were installed on the model.
VAZ 21063 cars were equipped with a 1.3 liter engine with a low cylinder block. The valve is a contact type with a shortened shaft, the difference for models 2106 and 21063 is 7 mm.
On the updated VAZ 21065 series, non-contact distributors with a long stem, working in conjunction with an electronic ignition system, were installed.

The difference in the length of the drive shaft, depending on the height of the cylinder block, does not allow the use of the VAZ 2106 part on a 1.3 liter engine - the distributor simply will not sit in the socket. Putting a spare part with a short shaft on a "clean six" will also not work - the spline part will not reach the gear. The rest of the filling of contact distributors is the same.

As a young inexperienced driver, I personally encountered the problem of different lengths of the ignition distributor rods. On my "Zhiguli" VAZ 21063 on the road, the distributor shaft broke off. In the nearest auto shop I bought a spare part from the "six" and began to install it on the car. Result: The distributor was not fully inserted, leaving a large gap between the platform and the flange. Later, the seller explained my mistake and kindly replaced the part with a suitable one for the 1.3 liter engine.

Contact distributor maintenance

In order to independently repair the distributor, you need to understand its structure and the purpose of all parts. The algorithm of the mechanical valve is as follows:

In fact, 2 electrical circuits pass through the distributor - low and high voltage. The first is periodically broken by a contact group, the second switches to the combustion chambers of different cylinders.

Now it is worth considering the functions of the small parts that make up the distributor:

An important point should be noted: the manual octane corrector is found only on older versions of the R-125 distributors. Subsequently, the design changed - instead of a wheel, an automatic vacuum corrector with a membrane operating from the engine vacuum appeared.

The chamber of the new octane corrector is connected by a tube to the carburetor, the thrust is connected to a movable plate where the breaker contacts are located. The magnitude of the vacuum and the amplitude of the diaphragm actuation depends on the opening angle of the throttle valves, that is, on the current load on the power unit.

A little about the operation of the centrifugal regulator located on the upper horizontal platform. The mechanism consists of a central lever and two weights with springs. When the shaft spins up to high revolutions, the weights under the action of centrifugal forces diverge to the sides and turn the lever. The interruption of the circuit and the formation of the discharge begins earlier.

Typical malfunctions

Distributor problems manifest in one of two ways:

The engine is unstable - vibrates, "troit", periodically stalls. A sharp press of the gas pedal causes a pop in the carburetor and a deep failure, accelerating dynamics and engine power are lost.
The power unit will not start, although it sometimes “picks up”. Shots at the muffler or air filter are possible.

In the second case, the malfunction is easier to detect. The list of reasons leading to complete rejection is relatively small:

a capacitor or a resistor in the slider has become unusable;
break in the low voltage circuit wire passing inside the case;
cracked the distributor cover, where the high-voltage wires from the candles are connected;
a plastic slider has failed - a rotor with a movable contact, screwed to the upper support platform and closing the centrifugal regulator;
the main shaft is seized and broken.

A fracture of the roller leads to a complete failure of the VAZ 2106 engine. Moreover, the debris with splines remains inside the drive gear, as it happened on my "six". How to get out of the situation while on the road? I took off the distributor, prepared a piece of cold weld mixture and stuck it to a long screwdriver. Then he lowered the end of the tool into the hole, pressed it against the fragment and waited for the chemical composition to harden. It remains only to carefully remove the screwdriver with a piece of the shaft stuck to the "cold welding".

There are many more reasons for unstable operation, so it is more difficult to diagnose them:

breakdown of the cover insulation, abrasion of its electrodes or central carbon contact;
the working surfaces of the breaker contacts are badly burnt or clogged;
the bearing on which the support plate with the contact group rotates is worn out and loose;
the springs of the centrifugal mechanism are stretched;
the diaphragm of the automatic octane corrector is out of order;
water has penetrated into the housing.

The resistor and capacitor are checked with a tester, the broken insulation of the cover and the slider is detected without any instruments. Burnt contacts are clearly visible to the naked eye, as are the stretched springs of the weights. The diagnostic methods are described in more detail in the following sections of the publication.

Tools and preparation for disassembly

To independently repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

2 flat screwdrivers with a narrow slot - regular and short;
a set of small open-end wrenches measuring 5-13 mm;
pliers, round-nose pliers;
technical tweezers;
stylus 0.35 mm;
hammer and thin metal guide;
flat file, fine sandpaper;
rags.

If a complete disassembly of the distributor is planned, it is recommended to stock up on WD-40 aerosol grease. It will help to displace excess moisture and facilitate loosening of small threaded connections.

During the repair process, additional devices and materials may be needed - a multimeter, a bench vise, pliers with pointed jaws, engine oil, and so on. You don't have to create special conditions for the work, you can repair the distributor in a regular garage or in an open area.

So that during assembly there are no problems with the ignition setting, it is recommended to fix the position of the slider before removing the element according to the instructions:

To dismantle the distributor, you need to disconnect the vacuum tube from the membrane unit, disconnect the coil wire and unscrew the only fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench.

Cover and slider problems

The part is made of durable dielectric plastic, in the upper part there are outputs - 1 central and 4 lateral. Outside, high-voltage wires are connected to the sockets, from the inside, the terminals are in contact with the rotating slider. The center electrode is a spring-loaded carbon rod in contact with the brass rotor pad.

A high-potential pulse from the coil is fed to the central electrode, passes through the contact pad of the slider and the resistor, then goes to the desired cylinder through the side terminal and armored wire.

To diagnose cover problems, it is not necessary to remove the distributor:

Do not be afraid to mix up high voltage cables when disconnecting. On top of the cover there are cylinder numbers, which are easy to navigate.

Insulation breakdown between two contacts is diagnosed as follows:

Not knowing such subtleties, I turned to the nearest auto shop and bought a new cover with a return condition. Carefully swapped parts and started the engine. If the idle speed was leveled, he left the spare part on the car, otherwise returned it to the seller.

The malfunctions of the slider are similar - abrasion of the contact pads, cracks and breakdown of the insulating material. In addition, a resistor is installed between the rotor contacts, which often fails. In the event of a burnout of the element, the high-voltage circuit is broken, the spark is not supplied to the candles. If black marks are found on the surface of a part, its diagnostics is necessary.

Important note: when the slider becomes unusable, there is no spark on all candles. Insulation breakdown is diagnosed using a high-voltage cable coming from the coil. Pull the end of the wire out of the cover, bring it to the center contact pad of the slider and crank the crankshaft with the starter. A discharge has appeared - it means that the insulation is broken.

Checking the resistor is simple - measure the resistance between the terminals with a multimeter. An indicator from 5 to 6 kOhm is considered normal, if the value is greater or less, replace the resistance.

Video: how to check the performance of the slider

Contact group troubleshooting

Since a spark jumps between the contact surfaces when opening, the working planes gradually wear out. As a rule, a protrusion is formed on the movable terminal, and a depression on the static terminal. As a result, the surfaces do not adhere well, the spark discharge weakens, and the motor begins to "triple".

A part with a small output is restored by cleaning:

Remove the distributor cover without disconnecting the cables.
Use a screwdriver to open the contacts and slide a flat file between them. The task is to remove the build-up of the movable terminal and align the static one as much as possible.
After cleaning with a file and a fine sandpaper, wipe the group with a rag or blow with a compressor.

In stores, you can find spare parts with upgraded contacts - holes are made in the center of the working surfaces. They do not form depressions and build-ups.

If the terminals are worn out to the limit, it is better to change the group. Sometimes the surfaces are deformed to such an extent that it is impossible to adjust the gap - the probe is inserted between the bump and the recess, there is too much clearance at the edges.

The operation is performed directly on the car, without dismantling the distributor itself:

The installation of contacts is not difficult - fasten the new group with screws and connect the wire. Further - the gap adjustment is 0.3-0.4 mm, performed using a probe. It is necessary to turn the starter a little so that the cam pressed on the plate, then adjust the gap and fix the element with the adjusting screw.

If the working planes burn out too quickly, it is worth checking the capacitor. Perhaps it is dry and poorly performing its function. The second option is the low quality of the product, where the opening surfaces are offset or made of ordinary metal.

Replacing the bearing

In distributors, a roller bearing is used for the correct operation of the octane corrector. The element is aligned with the horizontal pad where the contact group is attached. A thrust is attached to the protrusion of this platform, coming from the vacuum membrane. When the vacuum from the carburetor begins to move the diaphragm, the rod turns the platform together with the contacts, correcting the sparking moment.

During operation, a play occurs on the bearing, which increases with wear. The platform, together with the contact group, begins to dangle, opening occurs spontaneously, and with a small gap. As a result, the VAZ 2106 engine works very unstably in any mode, power is lost, and gasoline consumption increases. The bearing is not repaired, only changed.

The backlash of the bearing assembly is determined visually. It is enough to open the distributor cover and swing the contact breaker up and down by hand.

The replacement is performed in this order:

Remove the distributor from the car by disconnecting the coil wire and unscrewing the fastening nut with a 13 mm wrench. Do not forget to prepare for dismantling - turn the slider and make chalk marks as described above.
Dismantle the contact group by unscrewing 3 screws - two fastening, the third holds the terminal.
Using a hammer and fine tip, knock out the locking rod from the slinger sleeve. Remove the latter from the shaft without losing the second washer.
Remove the shaft with the slider from the housing.
Disconnect the octane corrector rod from the movable platform and unscrew the membrane block.
Prying the plate on both sides with screwdrivers, pull out the worn bearing.

Installation of a new element is carried out in the reverse order. Before installing the inside of the distributor, it is advisable to thoroughly clean it. If there is rust on the roller, remove it with sandpaper and lubricate a clean surface with engine oil. When you insert the shaft into the body bushing, remember to adjust the contacts to the feeler gauge.

When installing the distributor, keep the original position of the body and the slider. Start the engine, loosen the element fastening nut and turn the housing to achieve the most stable operation. Tighten the mount and check the "six" on the fly.

Video: how to change the bearing correctly without marking

Other malfunctions

When the engine flatly refuses to start, you should check the performance of the capacitor. The technique is simple: sit behind the wheel of an assistant, remove the distributor cap and give the command to rotate the starter. If a barely noticeable spark jumps between the contacts, or there is no such spark at all, feel free to buy and install a new capacitor - the old one can no longer provide the required discharge energy.

Any experienced driver operating a "six" with a mechanical distributor carries a spare capacitor and contacts. These parts cost a penny, but without them the car will not go. I was convinced of this from personal experience when I had to look for a capacitor in an open field - a passing Zhiguli driver helped, who gave me his own spare part.

Owners of a VAZ 2106 with a contact distributor are annoyed by other minor troubles:

The springs that hold the weights of the centrifugal corrector are stretched. Small dips and jerks appear when the car accelerates.
Similar symptoms are observed in the event of critical wear of the vacuum diaphragm.
Sometimes the car stalls for no apparent reason, as if the main ignition wire was pulled out, and then it starts and works normally. The problem lies in the internal wiring, which is broken and periodically breaks the power circuit.

It is not necessary to change the stretched springs. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the slider and use the pliers to bend the brackets where the springs are fixed. A torn membrane cannot be repaired - you need to remove the assembly and install a new one. Diagnosis is simple: disconnect the vacuum tube from the carburetor and suck in air through it with your mouth. A working diaphragm will begin to rotate the plate with contacts by means of a thrust.

Video: complete disassembly of the VAZ 2101-2107 ignition distributor

The device and repair of a contactless distributor

The device of the distributor, acting in conjunction with the system, is identical to the design of a mechanical distributor. There is also a bearing plate, a slider, a centrifugal regulator and a vacuum corrector. Only instead of a contact group and a capacitor, a magnetic Hall sensor plus a metal shield fixed to the shaft is installed.

How the contactless distributor works:

Hall sensor and permanent magnet are located on the movable platform, between them a screen with slots rotates.
When the screen covers the field of the magnet, the sensor is inactive, the voltage at the terminals is zero.
As the roller turns and passes through the slot, the magnetic field reaches the sensor surface. At the output of the element, a voltage appears, which is transmitted to the electronic unit - the switch. The latter gives a signal to the coil, which generates a discharge, which is supplied to the slider of the distributor.

The VAZ 2106 electronic system uses a different type of coil that can work in conjunction with a switch. It is also impossible to convert a conventional distributor to a contact one - it will not be possible to install a rotating screen.

The contactless valve is more reliable in operation - the Hall sensor and the bearing become unusable much less often due to the lack of mechanical stress. A sign of a meter breakdown is the absence of a spark and a complete failure of the ignition system. Replacing is easy - you need to disassemble the distributor, unscrew the 2 screws securing the sensor and pull the connector out of the groove.

Malfunctions of the rest of the distributor elements are similar to the old contact version. The troubleshooting methods are detailed in the previous sections.

Video: replacing the Hall sensor on classic VAZ models

About the drive mechanism

To transmit torque to the distributor shaft on the "six", a helical gear is used, rotated by the timing chain (in common parlance - "hog"). Since the element is located horizontally, and the distributor roller is vertical, there is an intermediary between them - the so-called mushroom with oblique teeth and internal splines. This gear simultaneously turns 2 shafts - the oil pump and the distributor.

Find out more about the design of the timing chain drive:

Both transmission links - "hog" and "fungus" are designed for a long service life and are changed during the overhaul of the engine. The first part is removed after disassembling the timing chain drive, the second is pulled out through the upper hole in the cylinder block.

The VAZ 2106 trambler, equipped with a contact breaker, is a rather complex unit, consisting of many small parts. Hence the unreliability in operation and constant failures of the sparking system. The non-contact version of the distributor creates problems much less often, but in terms of performance it still falls short of modern ignition modules, in which there are no moving parts.

The trambler on a VAZ 2106 car is being repaired, replacing worn out incoming parts. The distributor device is shown in Fig. 9.13.
To repair the distributor, you will need: keys "for 7" (two), "for 10", "for 13", screwdrivers (two), a set of flat probes, a hammer, mandrels for pressing and pressing the bearings (bushings) of the distributor, tweezers.

1. Remove the two screws securing the distributor rotor to the base plate of the ignition timing adjuster and remove the rotor.

2. Mark the springs of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator and weights to put them in their original places during reassembly.

3. Remove the springs of the centrifugal regulator by prying them off with a screwdriver.

4. Holding the nut on the movable contact screw, unscrew the nut that secures the terminals of the capacitor wire and the wire coming from the ignition coil (if it was not disconnected when the distributor was removed from the VAZ 2106 car).

5. Remove the screw securing the condenser to the distributor housing and remove the condenser.

6. Remove the screw securing the tip of the moving contact wire while holding the nut; remove the insulating spacer and washers: spring and flat (insulating and metal).

7. Remove the two screws securing the contact block to the movable distributor plate.

8. Remove the contact block.

9. Remove the lock and flat insulating washer from the contact block shaft.

10. Pry the insulating washer of the spring plate of the moving contact with a screwdriver and remove the moving contact from the axis of the contact group.

11. Remove the lock washer securing the rod of the vacuum regulator from the axis of the movable plate of the distributor.

12. Using a screwdriver, remove the rod of the vacuum regulator from the axis of the movable plate of the ignition distributor.

13. Unscrew the two screws securing the vacuum regulator body to the distributor body and remove the regulator.

14. Press out the slinger clutch retaining pin from the ignition distributor shaft, remove the clutch and ...

15.… the washer.

16. Remove the ignition distributor roller from the distributor housing.

17. Unscrew the two screws securing the bearing lock plates, remove the spring washers and remove the plates (with tweezers).

18. Remove the movable plate with bearing assembly from the ignition distributor housing.
19. Check the condition of the ignition distributor roller. There should be no visible signs of wear on the contact surface of the roller with the bearing (sleeve). Significant wear on the roller cams is not allowed.
20. Check the capacitor (with a capacitance tester). The capacitance of the capacitor should be 0.20-0.25 μF.
21. Check the condition of the vacuum ignition timing regulator diaphragm by pressing the rod and plugging the fitting (the rod must be held by the diaphragm).

22. The contacts of the breaker must be free from contamination, traces of burning and erosion. Clean such contacts with a velvet file (you cannot use a sandpaper) and rinse with gasoline or alcohol.

23. Replace the bearing (bushing) of the ignition distributor housing with traces of wear. Press out and press-in the bushing using a mandrel of a suitable diameter.
24. Assemble the distributor in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following features.

After assembly, adjust the gap between the breaker contacts. It should be 0.35-0.45 mm.

Lubricate the felt (on the movable distributor plate) with engine oil - 2-3 drops, as well as the bearing (bushing) through the grease fitting installed on the ignition distributor housing, and ...

… The splined part of the roller of the distributor of ignition.

Fig. 9.13. Trambler (ignition distributor) 30.3706 VAZ 2106:
1 - the roller of the ignition distributor; 2 - wire supplying current to the ignition distributor; 3 - latch for fastening the distributor cover; 4 - the body of the vacuum regulator; 5 - diaphragm; 6 - cover of the vacuum regulator; 7 - draft of the vacuum regulator; 8 - a branch pipe for a vacuum hose from the carburetor; 9 - lubricating wick (felt) of the cam; 10 - base plate of the ignition timing regulator; 11 - the rotor of the ignition distributor; 12 - side electrode with a terminal for the wire to the spark plug; 13 - ignition distributor cover; 14 - central terminal for the wire from the ignition coil; 15 - central carbon electrode with a spring; 16 - the central contact of the rotor; 17 - resistor for suppression of radio interference; 18 - outer rotor contact; 19 - the driving plate of the centrifugal regulator; 20 - weight of the centrifugal ignition timing regulator; 21 - lever axis; 22 - breaker cam; 23 - breaker lever; 24 - rack with breaker contacts; 25 - breaker contacts; 26 - movable breaker plate; 27 - capacitor; 28 - ignition distributor housing; 29 - shaft slinger clutch; 30 - bearing lock plate; 31 - bearing of the movable plate of the breaker; 32 - oiler body; 33 - screws for fastening the rack with breaker contacts; 34 - screw of the terminal clamp; a - groove for distinguishing ignition distributors 30.3706; b - groove for moving the rack with contacts

The VAZ-2106 distributor is installed on the left side of the engine, the drive comes from the gear of the oil pump. This device is designed to switch the high voltage generated by the ignition coil. During the production of "sixes" distributors have changed significantly - they have evolved from contact to contactless. Injection systems have already been installed on the latest VAZ-2106 cars, which until 2006 were produced on IZH-Auto conveyors. They do not have a distributor, its functions are completely transferred to the electronic "brain".

What is a distributor

It is a device that allows the high voltage to be correctly distributed across the spark plug electrodes. The design of the entire system consists of the following elements:

The power source is a battery and a generator.
Low voltage wiring.
Ignition coil.
Armored wires (designed for high voltage transmission).
Distributor (distributor) with a contact group or a Hall sensor. The cover of the VAZ-2106 distributor is necessary for high voltage switching.
Switch (in case of contactless system).
Capacitor - needed to get rid of the variable component in the circuit.

The VAZ-2106 distributor has a relatively simple design, but it must be serviced in a timely manner and worn out elements must be replaced.

Contact systems

The oldest and most imperfect designs, despite this, a lot of cars still use them. Even stores sell contact groups. One advantage can be highlighted in contact systems - low cost. Otherwise, they only have disadvantages:

A contact breaker installed in the VAZ-2106 distributor housing switches high voltage. As a result, the contacts often burn, it is sometimes necessary to clean the device.
The same contact breaker experiences heavy loads and friction. Therefore, the resource is limited by the quality of the metal used, the time of its wear.
During operation, the gap between the contacts changes, and it affects the ignition timing - this is one of the most important parameters of the internal combustion engine.

Despite the simplicity, the reliability of the mechanisms is very low. The system requires careful maintenance and timely maintenance.

Contact transistor structures

But if the function of the high-voltage switch is given to a device that is not so sensitive to voltage drops, you can get a fairly reliable device. This is what the engineers who designed the ignition systems were guided by. They left a mechanical contact breaker in the design, but it did not switch high voltage with it.

Contacts worked as a signal source, no more. This facilitated the operation and made it possible to configure the unit much less frequently. Such designs of the VAZ-2106 ignition distributor did not take root, since they were very quickly replaced by contactless devices, and their reliability turned out to be much greater. Contact transistor structures are subject to mechanical stress. Therefore, the resource is limited by the life of the contacts.

Contactless ignition systems

These are the most common ignition systems used on carbureted engines. But they, too, were installed for a short time, since they were supplanted by injection injection systems. The principle of operation is the same as for contact structures. But instead of a contact breaker, a Hall sensor and a switch are used. Of the rubbing components - only the distributor axis and the slider, which closes with the plates on the lid.

The reliability of such a design is very high, since there is no need to constantly monitor the gap in the contact group, to adjust the lead angle and the closed state. All work was done by electronic keys. Their resource is much higher than that of the contact group, there is no friction or wear. Usually, drivers who have installed a contactless ignition system forget about problems for a long time. But there are also breakdowns in such a reliable design.

Proximity system malfunctions

Breakdowns of such structures are rare. Before giving the final verdict that any component of the ignition system has failed, it is necessary to carefully check the engine. Very often, breakdowns in the fuel supply systems, ignition, electrical equipment are similar in symptoms to each other. The most frequent breakdowns:

Failure of the switch. In this case, the spark on the electrodes of the candles completely disappears. The engine cannot be started.
In case of failure, the Hall sensor stops supplying a control signal to the switch.
Clogging of the Hall sensor leads to the fact that the supply of the control signal is interrupted. At times, the signal goes to the switch all the time, without stopping.
Broken wires cause signal or power to the system to be cut off.
The destruction of the ignition coil is characterized by the fact that the whole structure works, but there is no spark on the spark plugs.
The operation of the VAZ-2106 electronic distributor completely depends on the condition of the cover and the slider. If there is carbon deposits or damage, this will lead to the inoperability of the entire system.

Breakdowns of the commutator and Hall sensor are very rare. But nevertheless, it is advisable to carry devices in the glove compartment for diagnosing these devices. With their help, you can not only check the status. In the event of a Hall sensor breakdown, the scan tool is installed on the block and the vehicle can continue to move.

Kit for installing BSZ

There are various kits on sale designed for mounting contactless ignition systems on carburetor cars. They consist of the following elements:

Trambler with Hall sensor.
A set of wires.
Electronic switch.
Fasteners.

High-voltage wires are used standard, there is no need to replace them. Another feature is that the system will not be able to work normally with the ignition coil, which was previously used with a contact distributor. The reason is that in the case of using BSZ, it is necessary that its output has a voltage of about 30 kV. And those devices that are used with contact systems are capable of developing no more than 25 kV.

Installation of contactless ignition

After installing the VAZ-2106 contactless distributor, the driver will completely get rid of the need to service the ignition system. The cost of a replacement kit will be no more than 1,500 rubles. To rework, you need to follow a series of steps:

Completely dismantle the old ignition system. Unscrew the distributor mount, remove the high-voltage wires. All excess wiring must be cut off.
Install a new distributor.
A switch must be installed in a convenient place on the body. A prerequisite is that all wires must be suitable for it, and they cannot be in a taut state.
Screw down the switch with metal screws.
Connect the switch and distributor.
Install high voltage wires.
Last of all, the entire system is connected to the ignition switch. It is to the contact on which the voltage appears when the ignition is turned on.

Setting the ignition timing

This is the only setting that needs to be done on the vehicle. To do this, you will need:

Turn the crankshaft and align the notch on the pulley with the middle mark on the engine block.
Remove the distributor, remove its cover and install the slider opposite the contact that corresponds to the first cylinder.
Install the VAZ-2106 distributor. Install the retaining nut.
Start the engine. It will work unstably, so you need to make a "fine" setting - turn the valve body.

It is advisable to be guided by the indications of the stroboscope. This is the only way you can adjust the angle as accurately as possible. Here's how to set up a distributor on a VAZ-2106 with your own hands. This can be done in an hour and a half if all the necessary tools and devices are available.