Alexander Ryazantsev, owner of Nissan-Laurel (N-Laurel), 1994 onwards, V-2, automatic, gasoline, rear-wheel drive
I own this car for six months, I am very satisfied.
prosNissan Laurel (N-Laurel) :
- Economical fuel consumption: 15L - city, 11 - highway.
- The interior is amazing inside, rich velor, chrome door handles outside and inside.
- Convenient electronic oven, trunk buttons and fuel filler flap are located not below under the seat, but on the door handle, which is more convenient.
- The car confidently holds the road, handling "by five".
- Thanks to this engine, the car accelerates confidently and sharply to 120 km / h.
- I am comfortable with a five-speed automatic.
- It runs smoothly, does not wobble or tremble.
- The suspension is not too stiff, but it cannot be called very soft either.
- Convenient cupholders that pop out of the front panel, a bright, large climate control screen and its control buttons are also very conveniently located.
- Although the handbrake is foot-operated, the unlocking mechanism is damn convenient.
MinusesNissan Laurel (N-Laurel) :
- The three of us are already cramped behind.
- The headlights are plastic, they quickly fade.
- The machine is cold, i.e. in winter it is cool - there is clearly not enough stove.
- Sometimes there is a parking problem.
Expert opinion: The engine is unpretentious and reliable!
Sergey Shashkov, director of the "Boomer" car service
- The engine is unpretentious and reliable enough, and, most likely, distributor. But do not allow it to overheat and the lower oil level. There is a problem with narrow channels.
- Watch the candles so that they are not "sewn".
- It is recommended to periodically carry out routine maintenance of the engine: replacing the timing belt and oil seals on the front. If the oil seals "run", then the forehead will be damp. Then there is a possibility of oil getting on the timing belt - the belt loses its properties and requires a mandatory replacement of the timing.
- Rear-wheel drive has a gearbox with LCD function, thanks to which the car shows itself well on ice.
- Walking is quite difficult, so pay attention to ball, silent blocks on the levers, steering ends, rods, wheel bearings.
- The weak point is the racks, but they are being repaired.
- Always check the oil in the gearbox.
- Pay attention to the universal joint, crosspieces, anthers on the drives.
NISSAN SKYLINE - LAUREL R34 - C35 with RB20 DE NEO L / B engine - “Loss of power, poor dynamics
07.12.2008
NISSAN SKYLINE - LAUREL R34 - C35
with RB20 DE NEO L / B motor -
"LOSS OF POWER, BAD PERFORMANCE"
The increase in the car park in developed countries always makes the environmental issue a priority. The tightening of emission standards is one of the reasons forcing automakers to produce new engines, and car owners to update their vehicles. For this, there are various insurance mechanisms, including the redemption of obsolete cars, additional payments and the acquisition of modern ones that meet new toxicity standards. This is the development of the scientific industry, mechanical engineering, technology, economics, etc.
Undoubtedly, the constant race to raise standards pursued by the government of developed countries is also an attempt to restrict imports of foreign manufacturers, especially from developing countries, whose cars, due to lack of technology, cannot fit into certain norms (including "crash tests" ), but are successfully sold in other developing countries.
This approach is understandable - the government cares about the preservation of jobs, the stability of the economy, protects its market from low-quality goods (and not only cars), but at the same time the fuel in this country corresponds to the upper class at all gas stations, roads are called roads and the speed limit is observed by EVERYTHING without exceptions. It is not entirely clear when there are no roads, instead of gasoline -… .., the rules are not written, but EURO 4 was introduced for the elite as a pass at the customs, although no one aspires to reach it, and it is impossible. Simply “to delimit financial flows” is possible.
Some of the leading companies, anticipating the tightening of toxicity standards, invest a lot of money in research work in advance, developing technologies that will help them survive and compete in the future.
One such TOYOTA, the LEARN BURN series of motors was an intermediate stage
transition from stoichiometric combustion engines to lean combustion. If we differentiate them according to the A / F ratio, then this is:
1.A / F \u003d 14.7
2. A / F ≈ 24
3. A / F ≈ 40
In the second and third cases, for different models, you can put the sign "approximately" instead of "equal".
The second case is the LEARN BURN motors, and the third is the D4 and all the analogies of NEO Di, FSI, etc.
Such "transitional" motors of this period of group 2 include a motor RB20DE NEO L / B (Learn Burn) which NISSAN released from about 1998 to 2002, until the NEO Di series came to replace.
What is so cardinal about this engine, in contrast to its predecessor RB20E and contemporaries RB25DE NEO, that it received the L / B prefix? The main thing is the combustion chambers, timing systems and phases, the installation of a higher energy ignition system, the introduction of mechanical dampers SWIRL for the lean mode. Introduced deep feedback on DC and added one KV rotation sensor. All this made it possible to “remove” 155 forces from the two-liter inline-six, keeping within the 2000 toxicity standards for Japan. Many may ask - what is so little? But the question here is not the number of "horses", but how to keep within the toxicity of the exhaust. After all, all the declared cars with their declared power must fit into these norms - otherwise they cannot move on public roads on their own - only on a tow truck. Please - there are tracks, brought the car, paid for the emissions of the overpowered engine, annealed the tires - back to the trailer and to the garage, "tune" further. But on the streets you can breathe. In general, there are many ways to improve the ecology of the streets (but all of them involve high-quality gasoline to begin with).
Such a redesign of the engine required changing the intake manifold - it became a composite one - to accommodate the dampers SWIRL stopping the access of the fuel-air mixture to one of the intake valves. (this engine has 2 intake valves per cylinder).
Since the injector is in front of the intake valve, the fuel-air mixture is formed in the intake manifold, but the injector is in front of one of the intake valves, therefore, overlapping one channel increases the flow rate and improves mixture formation. In fact, the damper closes only the air for one of the intake channels, since mixture formation takes place in the second channel, where the nozzle is located. The dampers operate discretely - either closed at idle (low loads), or fully open. A malfunction of this system leads to a sharp decrease in motor power. But the main thing is that with the introduction of such a manifold, NISSAN got one problem, not typical for engines of this series. Since the car uses separate "masses" and ground points for the power and signal circuits, in this motor the signal ground of the sensors was always located on the intake manifold in the area of \u200b\u200bthe coolant temperature sensor on the ECU (outlet to the upper radiator pipe). The manifold is always screwed onto the block and this connection has never caused problems on the RB series. It is noteworthy that NISSAN, in order to save money, used three-wire DC, in which the signal "mass" was the sensor body. All this led to a change in the DC signal relative to the given one, namely, the appearance of a threshold.
Consider Figure 1, which comments on the occurrence of code such as DTC P0131 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (FRONT) - LEAN SHIFT MONITORING
In the left figure ( fig. 1-1) - everything is normal, the DC signal exceeds the rich mixture level RICH, the threshold of which the ECU has set 0.6 volts (for reference, the lean mixture threshold is 0.35 volts)
If the DC voltage is higher than 0.6 volts - "rich mixture", less than 0.35 - "poor". Such a hysteresis loop makes it possible to accurately distinguish between work in transient modes, and also to determine the inactivity of the DC. Since the DC signal is constantly in the area of \u200b\u200blean mixtures, then there is a problem, the solution of which includes checking the DC, injectors, air leakage, fuel pressure, etc. In addition, due to the savings on the 4th wire of the DC, its signal "mass" is determined by the quality of the contact in the threaded connection of both the DC with the exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold itself. Why so - all because of the separation of power and signal "ground". If a bad contact occurs in the DC thread (resistance increased), then a certain part of the DC signal falls on this resistance, lowering its value at a constant level. This leads to a downward shift of the waveform - Figure: 1-2 (the signal amplitude does not change), but the positive half-wave ceases to overcome the upper threshold of the trigger hysteresis in the ECU. The management decision is to "tighten" the DC. So to speak - " this is not is always just" not only because of accessibility, but also because of the impossibility of unscrewing the DC without damaging it (dents on the case are unacceptable).
Another reason P0131 - poor contact in the signal "mass" - it is also recommended to retighten it. Installation of a 4-wire DC solves some of the problems - the signal does not depend on the state of the exhaust manifold, but you have to lay an additional wire.
All this is very good if your car diagnostics complies with EURO OBD, which contains codes for such cases. And if you have a car with a 14 pin connector, the ECU of which does not contain such codes - but in the DATA STREAM mode, you graphically determined the insufficient signal level of the DC, retightened the bolts of the signal ground and DC - but it did not help, then for this motor you need to “ground ”The very point of the signal ground. To do this, it is enough to connect two points with a wire with a cross-section of at least 3 mm².
Photo 1 Grounding point of the signal part of electrical equipment
Photo 2 The point on the intake manifold to which the signal ground must be connected.
How to check the need for such an operation without a scanner that displays the real date - turn on the ammeter between these two points. If the current exceeds 0.2 A, then it is necessary to modify the design.
What customer complaints were encountered:
- « loss of power after warming up the engine ", - this is the main reason for contacting. After reaching the temperature of 60 degrees, the fuel trim is significantly taken into account according to the DC readings, and the owners complained that after warming up in motion “I threw the gas - pressed it, and the car seemed to be hooked up”
- “revs are growing, but there is no acceleration " etc.
Another one of the ratings: - “Very sluggish acceleration to 3000 rpm, then it seems like nothing.”
From messages in the forums, most of them changed the spark plugs five times from simple to iridium APEXi 7 (with photo reports on the work done), all sensors in a circle (starting from MAF, etc., the fuel pump, flushing the injectors, who how ...).
Some even managed to sort out the automatic transmission, and I personally met with such. There was no limit to surprise. It is understandable - there are no errors (and they will not be on this motor), and the problem is insoluble. It's just that the RB25 collector is one-piece, but here on the SWIRL spacer of the dampers there are gaskets, on which the mass resistance increases over time due to oxidation ... In the DATA STREAM mode, when the O2 B1S1 signal is graphically displayed and the points on the collectors are connected, the signal immediately changes its appearance from NG to OK (Fig. 1) and the car gets full acceleration dynamics, and the owner is surprised by one wire.
Gadzhiev A.O© Legion-Avtodata
Gadzhiev Arid Omarovich, Moscow, Ermakova Roscha st. 7A, territory 14 TMP, www.nissan-A-service.ru tel. +79265256300, e-mail: [email protected] , Union of Automotive Diagnosticians
And this is the FAQ, or, as it is called in Russia, the FAK for Nissan Laurel. Here you will find answers to frequently asked questions from the category “how many do not answer them, but they will still ask” :-) Most of the information came here from various forums on Nissan Laurel cars, including ours:
- Which timing drive in RB engines is a belt or a chain?
The RB engines use a timing belt drive, no chains! - What is NEO?
NEO stands for Nissan Ecological Oriented. The latest generation RB engines were produced under this brand, which became more environmentally friendly. Contrary to the common misconception, the NEO designation has nothing to do with the direct fuel injection system, which Russian motorists are so afraid of :-). - How do I know which RB I have - NEO or not?
If you have a Laurel in the 35th body, then your engine is NEO. Well, in general, on these engines, right on the decorative cover is written in large letters: "NEO" :-). - Where is its number on the RB engine?
The number is stamped on a special area on the block on the right side (when looking at the engine from the front), behind the exhaust manifold, closer to the junction of the engine with the box. - What is the threat to the RB engine of a timing belt break?
Unfortunately, it is unlikely to do without consequences. Valves and guides will bend. - Which timing belt is better to replace and what is its resource?
Definitely, it is best to use the original Nissan belt. Its resource is 100,000 km. They are everywhere and are not that expensive. - What needs to be changed along with the timing belt?
Together with the timing belt, two rollers are usually changed - the tension and the bypass. Change all other "nearby details" at your discretion, depending on their condition. That is, no other devices (for example, a pump) need to be changed without fail! - The engine "troit" ("four", "five", etc.) - what is the reason?
In most cases - a malfunction of the ignition coils! At least they are the ones you should pay attention to in the first place. Coils are considered a "sore spot": there are a lot of them (there is a coil for each candle), and they are expensive :-). - In summer, when the air conditioner is on (especially in traffic jams), the engine starts to warm up and the air conditioner turns off. From what?
The air conditioner turns off automatically just due to the fact that the engine temperature begins to increase (thus, the clever Japanese automatics are trying to reduce the load on the engine). But engine overheating can occur due to contamination of the radiators with insects, fluff, etc. rubbish (unless, of course, the viscous coupling and the cooling system are working). Radiators must be periodically cleaned (blown, rinsed). These questions are discussed by laurels and. - What candles to put in Belarus?
"Native" candles - platinum, produced by NGK, marking PFR5G-11. In general, you can put simple candles, and iridium, and platinum-iridium - who is good for what and who does not mind money for what :-). - The RB engine eats a lot of gasoline - so everyone, or just me?
Yes, RB engines are known for their appetite :-) If your consumption in summer is about 14 - 15 l / 100 km, then this is practically "standard" :-). That is, you should not sound the alarm and take any urgent measures - the situation is unlikely to improve. - The arrow on the fuel level indicator in the gas tank goes down too quickly, is such a crazy consumption really?
Don't worry :-) Unfortunately, this problem is common to most Laurels. Almost all owners note the fact that the fuel level sensor in the gas tank cannot be trusted - it lies godlessly! - What kind of oil to pour in Belarus?
Only good :-) There is no definite answer. Manufacturer recommended - 5W-30. But in practice, laurels pour different oils - both by viscosity (5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 10W-40) and by base (synthetics, semi-synthetics), and by manufacturer. And, like, everyone is happy :-). - How much oil does a Laurel engine fit?
Approximately 4.2 liters. In any case, buy a five-liter canister, a four-liter will not be enough! - What kind of slurry to pour into an automatic transmission?
In theory, the box will work on any Dexron III class slurry. However, a better option than the original slurry Nissan ATF Matic Fluid D , you can hardly think of! - How much slurry do you need to replace?
The total volume of slurry in the box is about 8 liters. However, if you change it using the usual “drain method”, you can change no more than 4 liters. - Gear shifting in automatic transmission (especially from 1st to 2nd) is noticeable, there is a slight push. This is normal?
Yes, almost everyone has a slight push when shifting gears in an automatic transmission. Apparently this is the norm. Some argue that with a slightly increased level of fluid in the automatic transmission, such shocks are felt weaker. But this is their personal opinion. - Why do we need Power and Snow modes, the power button of which is located next to the automatic transmission lever? Should the indicators for these modes be on?
The indicators on the button itself should be on. If they do not light up, and, moreover, do not see the difference in the modes (read the logic of work below), then remove the cover around the automatic transmission lever, perhaps you simply do not have a button chip connected.
Now about the logic of work:
“Power” mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at higher revs (than in the usual mode, specific revs depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); thus, the maximum power and torque of the engine are selected, faster acceleration, etc.
"Snow" mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at lower revs (again, than in the usual mode, specific revs depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); This eliminates the slipping of the drive wheels caused by excessively high torque applied to the drive wheels. Also, in the "Snow" mode, the car starts to move from second gear, for the same reasons (an attempt to reduce wheel slip). Designed mainly for driving in winter on snowy / slippery tracks. You can also use this mode to save fuel, but do not forget that in this mode the car starts to "dull" (this is facilitated by starting the movement from second gear (which is quite difficult in itself) and shifting to a higher gear at low revs crankshaft (maximum power is not generated)).
And here's another patterns (patterns) gear shifting at different positions of the automatic transmission operating mode button at different degrees of pressing the accelerator pedal (on all graphs, the lever is in the “D” position, “Overdrive” is on) - The fan is very noisy when starting the engine - is this normal?
Yes, it is normal. The fan starts to work very noisily, but it lasts for just a few seconds, after which it switches to normal operation. - The fan runs all the time - does it all?
Yes, our Laurels have not an electric fan, but a fan with a viscous coupling. It rotates at different speeds, but is constantly in motion. - Is it possible to supply gas cylinder equipment for the RB engine?
Can! With good equipment of the latest generation (with distributed injection), the engine works perfectly, even in power it does not lose at all. The only "but": such equipment is quite expensive, so think about it - do you really need it? - Where in Laurel C35 is the Consult diagnostic connector and what is it for?
The Consalt diagnostic connector is located below the steering wheel, a little to the left of the bonnet opening lever ... It is hidden under the lid, and falls out if you pry this lid with something. From the name it is clear that the connector is required for vehicle diagnostics. In particular, it is to it that the VCons diagnostic computer can be connected. In addition, the connector is used for self-diagnosis. - Where is the standard antenna on Laurel C35?
The OEM antenna is located at the top and bottom of the rear window in the form of glued strips. Outwardly, they look like glass heating strips, but they don't heat a damn thing :-) The antenna amplifier (such a special metal box :-)) is hidden under the decorative cover of the left rear pillar. - Where are the fuses in Laurel and what are they responsible for?
Laurel has two blocks with fuses and relays: one - under the hood, the second - in the cabin, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe driver's right leg. In the engine compartment block, the fuse and relay accessories are indicated in English, there you can still somehow figure it out :-) In the salon block, all the designations are in Japanese, which means you can figure out which ones without the help of a dick. In general, look here: Fuses in the cabin C33 (RB20E) , Fuses in the cabin C35 (RB20DE Neo) - Where are the cabin filters in Laurel C35?
Cabin filters are always hidden from us in the same place - behind the glove compartment. They change enough easily ! - The "slip" indicator on the dashboard lights up while driving - what does this mean?
The presence of this indicator is the privilege of the all-wheel drive Laurels. While driving, the Slip notifies you of the slip occurring at this moment or the beginning of a skid. - What are the standard speakers installed in the rear parcel shelf of the 35th body and how to get to them?
The standard speakers in the rear shelf are round Clarion, 16 cm in size.To get to them, you need to remove the entire rear sofa (unscrew only four bolts - two by 12 and two by 10), then decorative overlays on the rear pillars (just carefully unfastened around the perimeter , because they are held exclusively on clips), then - stop signal , and then - a regular plastic-woolen shelf :-) (also comes unfastened). The speakers themselves are bolted to the metal shelf with four 10-bolts. - What to do if RB engine won't start after washing?
It happens. There is only one reason - during the washing process, water gets into different hidden places and remains there. Look for it first here:- Trambler. You take off the slider and the cap under it. The optical system is there, it must be purged.
- Candle wells. They often collect water.
- Injector connectors. They are oriented upward, and the water does not even evaporate there.
- How to change the brushes on the wipers if they do not rise ?!
Firstly, opening the hood lid does not solve the problem - the wipers will still not rise :-). Secondly, the easiest solution is to turn on the wipers and then turn off the ignition when the wipers are at their highest point. Done - now you can change the brushes. - What are the parameters of the rims on Laurel?
PSD - 5x114.3, CO - 66.1 mm, projection - 40 mm, width - 15x6JJ or 16x7JJ - What are the values \u200b\u200bof standard tires and the pressure in them?
For 15-inch wheels: dimensions 195/65 R15 or 205/60 R15 91S or 91H; pressure 2.0 atm. in all.
For 16-inch wheels: dimension 205/55 R16 89V, pressure 2.0 atm. in the front, 2.2 atm. in the back.
Japanese nameplate with tire parameters
Another sign (from the manual for C35) - What is a front brace, what does it look like and why is it needed?
The front strut is a metal stick :), installed under the hood between the strut mountings. This is how the spacers on the 35 Lavra look like:
Example # 1 , Example No. 2
Attention - spacers for AWD and RWD Laurels differ in mountings (different drilling of holes)!
In a quote from one of the automobile sites (forgive the author, it is not known from which one) the purpose of this subject is explained: “Installing a spacer is a mandatory element of perfomance tuning. No wonder all sports cars, without exception, are equipped with a strut. A car with a strut has better handling and easier cornering. After installing the strut, the vehicle responds more accurately and faster to steering movements. Improved handling is achieved by "tying" the upper parts of the suspension struts, which in the standard state are tied only at the bottom by the anti-roll bar, while at the top they remain relatively "free". Therefore, when cornering, the suspension struts "walk" a little, as a result of which the car's reactions to steering movements become less clear and more "smeared". The spacer allows to correct this disadvantage of the standard suspension. It is also an important element of passive safety, increasing body rigidity and creating an additional obstacle to deformation of the engine shield in a frontal impact. "
The installation of a spacer on Laurel is actively discussed on our forum.
The section continues to grow!
This advice is dedicated to all owners of Nissan Laurel cars - here are systematized excerpts from the forum on all discussed operational issues - problems and solutions, consumables, spare parts, etc.
In our city, and around the country, Lavrikov has been running around quite a lot ... That is why our colleague VictorZ created the forum on time.
The topic has grown and for beginners in this topic it is no longer easy to find information on their problems ...
To help all the owners of laurels, I had the idea to summarize everything that was said in the topic on the forum, put all the necessary and interesting facts about our cars in one place and replenish it as needed.
The information is conventionally divided into topics:
Engine
-Electricity:
About ignition: http://wiki.japancar.ru/index.php/Electronic_opening_ignition
candles according to some sources are platinum, according to others they are iridium. y (Cactus grower) PFR5G-11
NGK iridium, if you order in Toyota - 630 rubles a candle and wait, you can find around the city from 400 rubles per candle. buy better in large proven stores. I recently took myself iridium-platinum NGK BKR5EIX-11P (Reg, Kent) (a little better than just iridium) with my characteristics according to the catalog, a candle cost 500 rubles. I changed it myself. (Reg)
coils
i'm talking about coils. I have already studied them up and down.
the main purpose of this device is to convert 12 volts to 20,000 volts (approximately). Physically, the device is a primary winding with a small number of turns, which is connected to the control board of the coil on the transistor, which in turn is to the computer of the car. The secondary winding has several tens of times more turns and is physically connected to the primary winding only by an electromagnetic field, and it is connected directly to the spark plugs. Those. the principle of operation of a simple transformer (remember physics for the 10th grade)
The oscilloscope determines the malfunction of the transistor in the coil - it gives out the wrong waveform. The main reason for the failure of the transistor is overheating. With such a coil malfunction, the "Check" light is constantly on. People in Moscow repair such coils by replacing the transistor. Repair price - 1000 rubles per coil.
Kent1 wrote:
they just ring the coils and determine which one is not working ...
This method determines the breakdown in the primary winding of the coil. The resistance between the contacts is stupidly measured and what the parameters should be according to the table. "Check" can light up and go out. Repair is impossible IMHO. (see further)
Breakdown in the secondary winding of the coil is the most pernicious. With such a breakdown, the car does not always troit, the power is not always lost, the "Check" light does not light up at all, etc. The high-voltage spark now goes where it needs to - into the candle, then onto the body of the strip on which the spools are attached, flashing the plastic shell of the coil. Such a malfunction is revealed only by visual inspection of the coil - on the body on the plastic there is such a thin dash of whitened plastic, and most likely on the bend or side of the body. Repair is impossible, although people tried to repair such coils, judging by the forums and autodata, by filling the coil body with epoxy and thoroughly cleaning the coil installation site from dust. IMHO the effect will be short-lived. As a goal, selling a car can help.
The reason for the breakdown of the windings, both primary and secondary, is time and water. My car began to triple after I was poured through the radiator grill in the direction of the engine. Wash engines RB, VQ, etc. as it is understood at the Khabarovsk car washes it is generally impossible. If you want to buy a car with RB and similar Nissan engines and see that the engines sparkle like a cat's eggs, you should think about it.
My coils have just the third type of malfunction. I saw when I changed the candles. As soon as I put new coils, I can show those who wish to me the appearance of my old coils with traces of breakdown.
Kent1
10,230 rubles 3 pieces with a friend's VIP card and a 10% discount. I ordered it in the JapanCar store, yes, this is the same one where Yurka (wd) suffered with racks on avenirka, only the office on Kim-Yu-Chen. We walked for 7 days, nothing was said about the price increase
-cooling system
thermostat original 600r station wagon for ind. Changed myself - time - about an hour (Reg)
-Mechanics
Replacing the fuel filter
how to tighten belts with a photo
now I looked, there is a completely different boyda closed with plastic, and in order to pull the belt on, only one wrench.
the first figure shows the generator (where to find it)
(the tension belt is in blue)
To the horror, we just slightly loosen the screw marked in red, and then turn (clockwise) the screw marked in blue to increase the tension, then tighten the tangent screw and that's it.
The main thing is to turn off the engine!
-Release
I also had a burned-out resonator, I simply sealed it with cold welding 2 * 130r, and, as they say, I solved the problem. (DimaS)
the drive oil seal was found on an industrial station wagon for 200r (DimaS)
cover valve gasket (left) 650r (DimaS)
crankshaft oil seal (suspect) 250r (DimaS)
Machine
According to the manual - Nissan Matic D Fluid, and the most interesting thing is that in some places they write that it is compatible with D-III, and in others that it is not. Whom to believe - h.z. (Cactus grower)
Replacing a 4vd machine - 15100 rubles is work + the machine itself with a dispenser (DimaS)
Hodovka
-racks
kYB racks (new) for 2000r apiece, rear (VictorZ)
front said 2300 stand in Avtorem st. Industrial 8Atel. 27-58-14 (VictorZ)
Self-replacement rear struts (VictorZ)
-pads
nishinbo pads, kind of like Japanese. price 1200 r (Zlodei)
Replacement:
Salon, torpedo
for those who have xanavi buttons description:
It controls the climate control system (including the condenser)
it has a built-in CD player that dulls from the cold and does not read discs, but he only reads pirated (store) discs, he just does not perceive SDR and SDRV.
If the disc is inserted and cannot be read, a yellow rectangle with some inscriptions in Euryta lights up in the lower left corner .. what will change as go nah ..
if there is no disc, then on the same rectangle the inscriptions in Euryt are accompanied by the letters CD, which as I understand it means NO CD or there is simply no disc.
Means further:
by buttons:
1 - open to eject the disc
2 - turn on the LED
* LED functions are controlled on the touch screen
3 - 4 navigation control, it does not work for me and the buttons do not show themselves as well
5 - multifunctional dajopstick videml works in tandem with novigation and switches channels to TV a little more
The right side is all dedicated to climate control
6 - temperature regulator (the latter is displayed on the screen when the stove mode is active)
7 - on / off the air conditioner with the indicator light on, the conder is working
8 - automatic mode of the stove maintains the selected temperature level, controls the speed and blowing nozzles
* Manual control of revolutions and blowing nozzles is carried out by pressing the corresponding buttons on the touch screen
** in automatic mode, the stove fan turns on only when the minimum engine temperature is reached (it is very convenient in winter)
9, 10 - apparently there is manual control, but the picture does not seem
11 - turn off the climate control (echka or konder), or when the stove is off, with one press, it displays the control screen
12 - air supply only to the windshield, when the button is pressed, the air conditioner is automatically activated so that it can be turned off by pressing the button 7
flap control
13 - outside air (the light is on)
14 - internal air (the light is on)
if both lights are off, then the damper is 50% open
15- turn on tv
*** the sound, as with the SD, goes through the cassette holder and is regulated on it or on the steering wheel
16 - screen setting, you can adjust the screen brightness in day and night mode, some settings are activated only when the dimensions are on
17 - yes x .. he knows what kind of nozzle can headphones.
I also want to disappoint you with inputs on TV - NO, there are only tma wires going out and coming.
One person said that just put an MP3 tape recorder instead of a regular big crap, that's what I think about this: you can put everything, but you have to abandon the regular TV (by the way, it catches the sound of the 5th channel), LED and steering wheel controls, and the rest should work. (DimaS)
Removing the dashboard in order to replace the bulbs on the dashboard and clock: (VictorZ)
Bodywork
front door limit switch 100r (DimaS)
Bulbs: Medallist before 2000 4wd (DimaS) base H4 700r
on ClubS (Reg) base H1
polish (Reg)
