No spark from the ignition coil - possible causes and remedies. The engine does not start: How to find out the cause of the malfunction What gives a spark in the car

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The main topic of today's article will be such questions: "Why are there no sparks on high voltage wiring?" and "What if there is no spark of the VAZ 2114 injector?"

Probably, many motorists have encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, so if the vehicle's engine does not start, but the driver hears the functioning of the fuel pump in the tank, then you need to pay attention to the ignition system. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark on high voltage wires. That is why the main topic of today's article will be the following questions:

Why are there no sparks on high voltage wires? What to do if there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring of a VAZ 2114 car ?.

Naturally, in addition to these questions, we will consider several more, and here are a few of them:

  • What is the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 injector?
  • Diagnostics of the electronic part of the VAZ 2114 system;
  • The main breakdowns faced by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car;
  • The main signs of a breakdown of the VAZ 2114 ignition module are injector;
  • Diagnostics of the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
  • Algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
  • How to check if sparks occur or not?
  • What if there is no spark on a VAZ 2114 car?

Basic information about the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car

The VAZ 2114 car is built on the basis of the VAZ 21093 platform and is its improved version. Here there is a new steering wheel, an updated dashboard, an adjustable steering column, a new heater and power windows. Changes associated with the abandonment of the carburetor in the design of a VAZ 2114 car with an injection engine began to occur much later compared to foreign manufacturers, but these changes turned out to be quite useful.

An injector is a method of guiding a vehicle's engine system. In addition, it is a fuel mixture delivery method.

On machines with an injection engine, the fuel mixture is supplied with the help of a computer, through special nozzles. Most likely, every car owner has ever encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, but the driver hears the fuel pump functioning, then pay attention to the ignition system of your vehicle. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark on high voltage wires.


During the operation of the machine, some malfunctions of electrical elements may occur and this may affect the functioning of:

  • Devices, and this does not make it possible to control the ignition system and other components;
  • The power unit, thereby making it impossible to develop standard power;
  • The lamp of devices and the mechanism of convenience, which includes the lighting system, heating and power windows.

The main breakdowns faced by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car:

  • Decrease in vehicle power;
  • Failure during the development of vehicle engine power;
  • Idling instability;
  • Malfunction of the cylinder.

You need to start looking for the cause of the ignition system malfunctions with the formation of sparks on high voltage wiring.

Sparking process

If you hear the fuel pump running, but there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring, then check the functioning of the ignition system. The system is checked for the presence of sparks on high voltage wiring, and for this a special device called a spark gap is used. The use of this device is considered more comfortable, because most injector type engines use static ignition distribution with the simultaneous transmission of high voltage to two spark plugs.

To carry out such a check, you need to connect a spark gap and turn the engine with a starter. If sparks appear only on some of the wires, then the reason is a breakdown on the mass of the wiring or the output of the coil. Sometimes the reason may be a break in the wiring or winding that belongs to the ignition system module of the machine.

If there are no sparks on several wires at the same time in any sequence, then the cause of the malfunction is the coil, module or vehicle controller.

Note that breakage can occur when the high voltage line is cut. In this case, it is necessary to check the high voltage wiring for integrity, and this can be done by measuring the resistance level of the wiring themselves. The standard resistance value on the wiring should be no more than 200 kilo-ohms. It is also worth paying your attention to the fact that there should not be a large difference between the resistance levels of the wires.

Ignition module on a VAZ 2114 car

If the discharge of sparks from high-voltage wiring has always been stable, this indicates that the cause of the malfunctioning of the injection engine lies in the spark plugs.

If there are no sparks, then the cause of the malfunction may lie in the primary circuit, which runs from the generator to the ignition coil. Most often, the reason lies in the malfunction of the ignition module, and the easiest way to determine this is the reason or not, it is considered to establish an accurately working device. That is, if sparks appeared after replacing, then the problem was in the ignition module, and its repair is not provided in the instructions for use.

Algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector:

  1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery or using the ground cut-off button;
  2. Remove the tip from all candles;
  3. We bend the latch, disconnecting the module's low voltage wiring block;
  4. Disconnect the high voltage wiring from the module connectors;
  5. Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the crankcase to the engine using a 13 key;
  6. We loosen the 3rd bolt together with the head with a 17 key;
  7. We remove the module together with the bracket;
  8. Unscrew the bolts securing the module to the bracket. They are located under the hexagon;
  9. Establishment takes place in the reverse order.

If sparks still do not start to form, then it is very likely that the reason lies in the controller or the wiring connecting the module and the ignition coil. In this case, it is necessary to check for the presence of sparks on all cylinders one by one, and if there is no spark on some coil, then replace it with a nearby one. If, after replacing one coil with another, a spark appears, then the reason is a breakdown of the coil, otherwise the controller or wiring is broken.

The reason for the impossibility of starting a gasoline engine is the absence of an ignition spark. To know how to determine a malfunction in the VAZ 2109 ignition system (carburetor) and restore its performance, take just a couple of minutes.

How to determine that there is no spark on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor)

If the attempt to start the engine fails, you may suspect an ignition problem. Try to start the engine more than 3 times. worth it, since the battery will be discharged, and the malfunction will not go away by itself... We need to start looking for the reason for this state of affairs. The search for a possible malfunction is done with an assistant who could turn on the ignition switch at the right time. A simple household multimeter is useful in work.

The first step is to check the performance of the coil, since it is the manufacturer of the high-voltage discharge. The simplest test is as follows:

  1. remove the high-voltage wire from the distributor cover;
  2. wearing gloves (so as not to shock) or taking the wire with pliers with insulated handles, bring its contact to the mass at a distance of about 1 cm;
  3. the assistant turns on the ignition (starter);
  4. a large blue spark should slip through.

If there is an electrical discharge, the search for the cause is directed towards the distributor and candles, if not, the coil, switch, Hall sensor, ignition switch are checked. Let's consider how to independently check the health of the listed devices.

Coil

Before checking the coil, it is worth making sure of the integrity of the central high-voltage wire, since its failure can also cause the absence of a spark. For this, the tester's switch is set to the 20 kOhm position, and its probes are connected to the opposite contacts of the armored wire. If the multimeter reads between 3.5 and 9 kΩ, the high voltage wire is OK. For other values, the wire is replaced with a good one.

The ignition coil is the most capricious circuit element for diagnostics.

If the armor wire is in good condition, the coil is tested. We check the integrity of the primary winding. The multimeter probes are connected to the terminals "B" and "K" of the coil. The switch is in the 20 ohm position. Normal resistance for a device installed on the "nine" will be in the range of 0.4-0.5 ohms.

To check the resistance of the secondary winding, connect the probes to the "B" terminal and the high-voltage output. Tester switch in 20 kOhm position. The normal resistance indicator is in the range of 4-5 kOhm. If the resistance values \u200b\u200bare very different from normal, the coil is replaced with a new (serviceable) one.

Switch


To check, you need a second, working device

If the coil shows normal resistance figures, the reason for the disappearance of the spark is not in it. Further along the chain is the switch. The tester will not be able to "call" him. The functional check of an electronic device is carried out by its test replacement with a known good one. If the "live" switch has not changed the state of affairs, you need to move further along the chain.

Hall Sensor

With this device they do the same as with the switch (replacement with a workable one). The difference is that it is more difficult to reach the Hall sensor. To do this, you need to disassemble the distributor.

Egnition lock

If the coil, switch and Hall sensor are in good working order (do not forget to check the integrity of the contacts between these devices), but the spark has not appeared, the reason may lie in the ignition switch. When the lock is on, the coil is powered. It is checked like this:

  • the tester switches to 20 volts;
  • one multimeter probe to terminal "B", the other to ground;
  • with a charged battery, the device will show 12 V.

A control lamp can be used. When connecting its wires with the mentioned contacts, the lamp will light up. If the lamp does not light up or the tester did not "detect" the voltage, you should look for the cause of the missing spark in the open circuit (fuse, wire).


Often, drivers do not want the hassle of repairing the castle and just change it to a new one

Rarely, but there are situations when, when the key in the lock is turned to the first position, the voltage is applied to the coil, but disappears in the second position (starting the engine). To exclude this option, the "B" terminal of the coil is connected directly to the battery positive. If a spark appears in such a situation, there is a problem with the lock. It is better to replace it or send it to an experienced auto repair shop. If you have the skills to work with this mechanism, we can offer information.

Now let's consider what is the reason for the disappearance of the spark in the direction of the circuit other than the coil.

Trembler

A malfunction of the distributor is suspected if there is a full-fledged spark on the central armored conduit, but it is not on any of the candles. The reason is the burning of the contacts on the cover of the distributor or slider. To determine the malfunctions, it is enough to inspect after removing the cover (contacts are oxidized or covered with black carbon). The malfunction is eliminated by stripping the contacts. If the integrity of the distributor cap is broken, it should be replaced.

Remember that the cover of the distributor, armored wires, and candlesticks should be kept as clean as possible. Oil stains, dirt, moisture significantly impair the quality of the spark.

High-voltage wires (BB, armored wires)

If you carry out a full test of the ignition system, you cannot do without checking the armor wires connecting the distributor cover and the spark plug. They "ring out" with a multimeter in the same way and with the same desired result as the center wire (described above). With the active operation of the VAZ 2109, it is better to replace the armored wires about once a year, since their resource is designed for approximately this period.


Changing such parts every year is not a cheap pleasure.

Is it the candlelight?

Often the candles themselves are the cause of the disappearance of the spark. If they have not changed for a long time, then even with a high-quality high-voltage pulse, the spark will be weak or completely disappear. There are also problems with "fresh" candles. With a strong enrichment of the fuel mixture, they quickly become covered with an abundant layer of soot, which is a dielectric, therefore, the quality of the contact between the electrodes decreases. In this case, you should do

If a spark has disappeared in your car's engine (injection or carburetor), it will triple or not want to start at all. This is not surprising, since if there is no spark on one or more spark plugs, the ignition process does not occur in the engine cylinders, and the fuel simply flies into the exhaust pipe. In this article, we'll look at the main reasons why the spark is missing. You will also learn which elements of the ignition system need to be checked in case of such a malfunction and how to solve the problem.

Typical Causes of Spark Failure

Depending on the type of powertrain, there are several factors that cause no spark on the spark plugs. In most cases, the reasons are as follows:

  1. Discharged battery.
  2. Damage or failure of candles. They can also be filled with gasoline or oil.
  3. Malfunction of module, switch or ignition coil.
  4. Poor contact or damage to the insulating layer of high voltage wires.
  5. Malfunction of the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV).
  6. Malfunctions in the distributor.
  7. Low voltage circuit problems.
  8. Poor ground contact.
  9. Malfunctions in the ECU (electronic control unit) of the motor.

Battery diagnostics

The most commonplace reason is a dead battery. If, when turning the key in the ignition lock to start the engine, the indicators on the dashboard dim, the battery is discharged. Sometimes the reason lies in poor contacts on the battery terminals. These problems are solved simply:

  • if the battery is simply discharged, it is necessary to recharge it or replace with another battery;
  • if the problem is in the terminals, it is necessary to thoroughly clean them from corrosion and tighten them securely (to avoid further oxidation, it is recommended to apply graphite grease to the contacts).

Methods for checking an injection and carburetor engine in the absence of a spark

If there is no spark on the engine, different diagnostic methods are used:

  • check for "weight";
  • check with a digital multimeter (tester);
  • use of a special tester with a piezoelectric element.

The weight check is recommended only for vehicles with a carburetor. To do this, you need to take a candle and bring it to any metal part of the engine (a cylinder block will work well). Another person in the passenger compartment should try to start the engine by turning the key in the ignition. This determines the supply of a spark to a specific candle.

Important! It is undesirable to use this method to check the spark on injection machines, since they use expensive electrical equipment that may fail due to such a "diagnosis".

Using a multimeter allows you to check the spark plugs themselves. The diagnostic principle does not differ from the first method, but the likelihood of damage to the engine ECU is minimized. Checking the spark on the carburetor engine allows a special device called "spark gap". With the help of such a device, you can easily determine in which segment of the car's ignition system problems have arisen.

If there is no spark in all cylinders, the controller, ignition coil / module, or center wire may be the culprit. First you need to check the condition of the fuses. After that, we check the connection of the "ground" and high-voltage wires.

If there is no spark on the coil, check the condition of the center high voltage wire. The presence of damage to the insulating layer, breakdowns and other defects is unacceptable. If found, this element must be replaced.

Also, be sure to check the spark plugs when looking for a spark. But it is advisable to do this only after you have reliably established that the spark definitely reaches the candles. The check is carried out in the way mentioned above. The spark should be white with a slightly bluish tint. If there is a spark, but weak, check the condition of the spark plug contacts. In any case, replacing candles is inexpensive, so it will not be superfluous.

Checking the ignition coil for spark

It is necessary to pull out the wire from the distributor. After that, the wire must be brought to a metal element and the engine must be rotated with a starter. If there is a spark, then the ignition breaker-distributor is out of order. If you can't see it, you need to proceed to checking the coil.

If the problem is in the distributor, you need to start checking with its contacts. Problems can be caused by oxidation, breakdowns in the insulating layer or rotor malfunctions. If you notice problems with the rotor, it must be replaced with a new element.

When diagnosing the ignition coil, check the condition of the winding. Usually the absence of a spark is caused by a short circuit inside this part. If you find signs of it, we advise you to buy a new coil and install it on your car. Overloading caused by faulty high-voltage wires or spark plugs can also damage the ignition coil.

Checking the coil is done as follows:

  • the car must be parked in a dry room;
  • it is necessary to remove dirt from the cover of the ignition switch-distributor and remove it;
  • turn the engine crankshaft so that the distributor contacts are in the closed position;
  • turn on the ignition and bring the high-voltage wire of the distributor to the metal part of the engine by 3-7 mm.

It will also tell you if the ignition coil needs replacing. The most suitable option is testing the coil on special equipment in workshops. This procedure checks the operation of the coil in different modes.

To check the spark on the candles, they must be unscrewed. Pay attention to the condition of the contacts, the presence of carbon deposits or oil. All elements of dirt must be removed before diagnostics are performed. Do not forget about the correct gap between the electrodes. If a mismatch is found, the side electrode is gently bent. Like the coil, spark plugs can only be checked qualitatively on special equipment.

No spark - check ignition module

Possible signs of failure of the ignition module:

  • tripping of the motor at idle;
  • drop in power, poor acceleration dynamics.

If the wires and plugs are in order, it is necessary to test the ignition module. We connect one probe of the multimeter to the module connector, and connect the other to the "ground". After that we try to start the engine. If the device displays a value of about 12V, the module is working properly.

Low voltage circuit diagnostics

For this method, it is necessary to find a test lamp with a power of 2-3 watts with a voltage of 12V. We connect one contact of the lamp to the low voltage contact of the distributor, and the second to the ground.

The next step is to close the distributor contacts and turn on the ignition. If there are no problems in the low voltage circuit, the lamp will extinguish when the contacts are closed and burn when the contacts are open. If the opening of the contacts does not lead to the glow of the lamp, the cause of the breakdown is the primary winding of the coil or the low voltage wire.

If the lamp glows continuously, regardless of the position of the contacts, this indicates the following possible breakdowns:

  • oxidation of the distributor contacts;
  • damage to the wire connecting the distributor body and its movable disk;
  • damage to the wire between the lever and the distributor terminal.

Most often, the absence of a spark is caused by the failure of the spark plugs, so it is recommended to start the check with this part of the system. If you have any doubts about the performance of the ignition module, we advise you to install a known working element on the car and so quickly find the source of the problem. This will speed up the search for the spark. When disconnecting high-voltage wires from the coil or candles, do not forget to mark them so as not to confuse them later.

The absence of a spark on the spark plugs is one of two basic faults most often found on cars (the other is). A missing spark or a weak spark on the spark plugs indicates a problem with the ignition system. Either in a high voltage circuit or low voltage. In this case, the car engine will not start at all (both cold and hot), or will start and stall (if there is a spark, but weak). Consider the main reasons for the loss of a spark on carburetor engines of VAZ 2105, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099 cars with contact and contactless ignition systems.


Before troubleshooting, it is necessary to more specifically determine the culprit of the missing spark and conduct a visual inspection of the high-voltage wires, the ignition coil and the distributor. A banal central armored wire that has jumped off the distributor cover, a loose connector or an oxidized (fallen off) terminal on the ignition coil will lead to the disappearance of the spark.

Then we remove the central high-voltage wire, insert a serviceable candle into its tip and put it on the engine (so that there is contact with the "ground"). While the assistant turns the engine with a starter, you need to visually make sure that there is no or presence of a spark on the spark plug. A spark appeared - themselves are faulty, high-voltage wires or an ignition distributor in the distributor. There was no spark, and there is still no - problems with the switch, Hall sensor, ignition coil.

Spark missing, reasons for a contactless ignition system

  1. The ignition coil has failed.

Checking the ignition coil. At the ignition coil, the winding resistance and insulation resistance are usually checked with a tester. For oil-filled coils (27.3705) and dry (3122.3707) the resistance is slightly different. More details:. In the absence of a special device for testing, we use the method of replacing - our coil, with another, obviously working.

checking the primary winding of the ignition coil
  1. The switch is defective.

Checked with an oscilloscope. Since not everyone has it, we use the replacement method - instead of our own switch, we install a known good one. It is very approximately possible to evaluate the performance of the switch according to the voltmeter readings after the ignition is turned on (see).

  1. Hall sensor defective.

It is checked with a voltmeter according to a special connection diagram (see). If there is no voltmeter, we use the replacement method.


  1. An open in the low voltage circuit.

In the contact ignition system, the list of faults leading to the disappearance of the spark is as follows

  1. The mechanical breaker in the distributor is faulty.

Oxidized, destroyed or burnt his contacts. No between breaker contacts.


  1. Defective ignition coil.
  2. Open circuit in the low voltage circuit.

Notes and additions

- To quickly find the cause of the disappearance of the spark on the spark plugs, you need to know the principle of operation of both contact and non-contact ignition systems (for more details, see "The principle of operation of the ignition system"). The elution of the ignition system is to generate a high voltage current at the right time and supply it to the spark plugs. This is done by interrupting the low voltage current in the primary circuit of the ignition coil. In a contactless system, the switch interrupts the current by a signal from the Hall sensor, to a contact mechanical breaker with contacts, driven by a square on the distributor shaft.

One of the most common reasons provoking the impossibility of starting a gasoline engine is the banal absence of a spark on the spark plugs. With this combination of circumstances, there is nothing to ignite the combustible mixture at the compression stroke, as a result, the engine refuses to work. Depending on what kind of power system the car is equipped with, it is determined how exactly to act to determine the exact reason for the absence of a spark and measures to return it. We will talk in more detail about this problem on injection engines today. Interesting? Then be sure to read the material below to the end.

Spark check

Let's say your injection car stopped responding to the ignition key and refuses to start. It is rather irrational to immediately complain about a malfunction in the ignition system. First of all, you need to make sure that it was the spark that disappeared, and that something else did not break. To check spark plugs for the presence of the cherished "spark", you can resort to several procedures at once. Perhaps the most effective and simpler ones are:

  • Method one - check from the mass. To implement it, it is necessary to turn off the ignition, unscrew each candle one by one and, putting its body to the mass (metal body of the motor), try to start the engine;
  • The second method is checking with a multimeter or a tester based on a piezoelectric element. This diagnostic option is quite similar to the method described above, except that the candle is applied not to the mass, but to the contacts of the tester or multimeter. However, in this case, it is not required to "turn" the starter, a spark must arise from the devices themselves.

If, as a result of the above-mentioned test methods, sparking was not detected on the candle, or there is a spark, but weak (dim, blurred, dim), it is necessary to identify the cause of the malfunction. Do not forget that operating the machine with poorly working ignition negatively affects the operation of the engine and significantly reduces its service life.

Note! Checking the spark on the injector is an extremely demanding event, since such cars have very sensitive electronics. Given this particular feature, it is important to carry out diagnostics accurately and as quickly as possible, that is, without numerous repetitions of the test and using exclusively high-quality testers.

Causes of sparking problems

If there is no spark on the injector, and not, for example, on a carburetor or gear motor, but you will have to try to identify the reasons for its loss. This is due to the fact that there are slightly more factors affecting sparking in injection systems and they look more multifaceted. If we summarize the general list of possible causes of the problem, then it is worth highlighting the following most common of them:

  • The spark plug or spark plugs are flooded with fuel - the spark is either absent or very weak, the plugs themselves are wet;
  • The spark plug or spark plugs are out of order - the spark is completely absent, carbon deposits on the contacts are usually black or white;
  • Defective crankshaft sensor, ignition module, ignition coil, switch or distributor - the spark is completely absent, the engine does not show signs of "life", the injector does not work correctly;
  • High-voltage wires have broken through or contacts have been lost - one or two candles do not work, the rest are fully operational;
  • The electronics of the injector (ECU or wires) is faulty - the unit does not work correctly, there is no spark on all the candles;
  • The injector nozzles are clogged - there is no spark on the spark plugs of specific cylinders, the injector is not working correctly.

Note that for a complete and most accurate diagnosis, it is necessary to carry out several procedures at once:

  1. Naturally, check for a spark;
  2. Assess the presence of the symptoms described above;
  3. Check for corresponding errors on the dashboard or on-board computer screen;
  4. Check the potentially faulty unit (disassembly, cleaning, diagnostics with a multimeter, etc.).

If, as a result of all diagnostic procedures, the problem has not been identified, then, most likely, an appeal to the service station cannot be avoided. Otherwise, it is quite permissible to carry out your own repairs, of course, if you have the proper skills, abilities and tools.

Bringing the car back to life

The reason for the loss of the spark is, perhaps, very clear. Now, it will not be superfluous to consider the order of its return. The reality is that, in most cases, returning the spark is a simple matter, as long as you thoroughly check a broken car. To be more precise, in order to normalize sparking it is required:

  1. First, check the spark on the injector as described above, make sure that it has disappeared, and, at least indirectly, try to determine the cause of the malfunction;
  2. Further, it is enough to assess the prevailing circumstances and act on the basis of them. As typical situations, we propose to consider the solution of the following problems:
    • the candle is wet, the presence and strength of the spark is unimportant, the carbon deposit is correct (brick-colored) - wipe the part and screw it back in;
    • the candle is wet (not always) and the carbon deposit is incorrect (white or black) - we clean, dry the part and try to start the engine, if there is no result, change the candle and deal with problems in the fuel system (cleaning the injector, checking the computer, etc.);
    • the candle is wet, there is no spark at all, the color of the carbon is not important - we try to change the part, if there is no result, we check the ignition system and the operation of the injector.