Car rear window heating often fails. In most cases, it refuses not completely, and fragmentary: individual zones or heating threads do not work. To replace in this case the glass is completely irrational.

There are various ways of self-repairing threads and other elements of the heating of the rear window of the car in order to restore their performance. Consider them in this article.

Principle of operation

The heating of the rear window of the car occurs due to the heating of special filaments deposited on the glass when direct current flows through them. The threads are made of a conductive material of low resistance. The total current of the rear window heater is about 10 amps. The number of threads is about ten. Thus, a current of approximately 1 amperes flows through each thread. It is easy to calculate according to the law of Ohm, that the resistance of the thread is about 12 ohms.

The nithe of the heater is applied with the technological process of manufacturing the rear window at the factory in several ways:

• electrochemical;
• vacuum spraying (the most reliable method);
• sticking.

The chemical composition of such threads may include various elements, alloys and composite materials: resins, copper, graphite, nickel, chrome, tungsten. The manufacturer does not declare production technology, so for each technology (heated glass) you have to select the appropriate way to restore performance.

For example, a soldering is practically impossible if the threads were sprayed in vacuo carbon composition. In this case, only conductive adhesives are effective.

Connection scheme

Usually, the rear window heating thread is supplied to the battery voltage through the fuse systems, switches and relays according to the scheme below.

In some models of cars, the rear window heating is possible only with the engine manner. For this, another blocking relay is provided. The fuse mounted on the heater power supply chain typically has a nominal value of more than 15 amps.

Signs of malfunction

The main signs of the heating of the rear window:

• does not turn on completely;
• turns on, but not all threads work (the most common case);
• works periodically.

Why the rear window heating does not work: reasons how to check out the place of refusal

If the heating of the rear window stopped working, but it works, but with interruptions, this may be due to the following reasons:

1. Fault of the electrical equipment of the car.

Finding a place of failure should be started with a fuse that serves a heater. If it is working, then check the switch (button) of the heater, relay, electrical wiring to the heater contacts.

The rear window heating switch button is checked using a multimeter. Its contacts are often tightened as a result of a large current. In this case, it must be changed.

One of the most likely places of malfunction of electrical equipment - a bummer (or paying) the place of attachment of the contact terminal to the heater. Repairs in this case is difficult. It is required to produce a soldering with the help of special solders and flux. It is also possible to glue conductive paste.

Often wiring is damaged at the place of crossing the corrugations, where the wiring from the body to the door of the trunk is located. An opening of corrugations is required, wiring extraction, searching for a broken conductor and eliminating the breakdown.

2. Ombol of the filament.

Such a malfunction may be associated with the removal of a sunscreen film, mechanical scratches on glass, natural wear.

Video - How to check the rear window heating by a multimeter:

To search for a specific location of the thread break, if it is imperceptible to the eye, you must use the multimeter. Its probes should be sharpened or connected with sewing needles. It is necessary to ensure reliable contact of the probes with the heater threads. First, the method is visual or tactile (touch), the method determines the faulty thread (threads). It does not heat up. Then the resistance is measured in extreme sections of the thread.

After determining the place of damage to the thread, it must be marked with a marker.

How to fix the heating of the rear window do it yourself

To repair the rear window heating, you should purchase a special conductive glue or ready-made heater repair kits. It is necessary to carefully read the repair technology, which should be described on the packaging or the attached instructions in Russian. The success of repair work is determined by strict compliance with the technology specified in the instructions.

Video - repair threads of rear window heating with their own hands:

Overview of sets and glue for repairing threads and contacts of heating rear window

Set Permatex PX 09117

The set includes:

• adhesive for threads 1.4 ml;
• contact for contact 0.8 mm;
• tassel for applying glue;
• template;
• sandpaper;
• napkin activator;
• alcohol napkin.

Mode of application when repairing contacts:

• clean and degrease the surface;
• clean contacts;
• wipe the activator of the surface, wait 5 minutes;
• apply a small (!!!) drop of glue so that it does not make the surfaces bonded;
• press contacts;
• give a day drying.

Mode of application when repairing thread:

• degrease the surface to which the thread will be applied;
• attach pattern;
• wait 20 minutes;
• repeat the application of 3-4 times at intervals of 20 minutes;
• the heater is included in 24 hours.

The cost of such a set is about 1000 rubles.

AVS A78358S glue

Such conductive adhesive for repairing rear window heating yarns 2 ml costs about 200 rubles.

Conductive adhesive for repairing rear window heating threads.

The price of glue is about 400 rubles.

Video - How to glue the contacts of the rear window heating without removing the glass:

Repair technology is approximately the same for all industrial manufacturers. The main thing is to degrease the surface well and do not rush. If you cannot find special compounds for repair, you can try them to make them yourself or use other recovery methods.

Independent manufacture of conductive glue, soldering with special fluxes, electrolytic coating

1. Independent manufacture of conductive composition.

As the basis, the common glue BF-2 or BF-6 is often chosen. You can use other quick-drying adhesives. There are options for using a polymer resin, paint, enamel. In order to make a conductive paste from these materials, it is necessary to add a fine chips into it in a ratio of 1 to the 1st. The chips can be "mined" with a small file or supphilyla and copper, aluminum or brass material. After mixing the components, they are applied to the prepared surface through the homemade stencil. It is not difficult to make it with the help of construction tape or tape.

The effectiveness of such a self-made composition will not be worse than purchased.

2. Soldering the place of breaking thread and disconnecting the terminal.

The soldering place of the thread break is impossible if the distance between the end of the thread is more than two millimeters. In this case, you can pre-use the electrochemical method. When restoring the contacts of the connections of the heater terminals, the soldering is more efficient and reliable. The soldering is produced by a classic method using an active flux and solder. As a solder, choose POS-18 or similar. Flux is better to use a TC type based on zinc chloride.

3. Electrolytic coating.

To carry out such a coating, a solution of copper sulfate is required (the proportion is 100 milliliters of water, two teaspoons of copper sulfate, you can add a few drops of rechargeable electrolyte), rags, thread, stranded copper wire with a cross section from 6 square meters (for the manufacture of a copper bruster prototype).

Next, the copper brush from the stripped conductor wrapped with rag and thread is connected by the reverse end of the wire to the power supply of +12 volts (AKB), minus the battery is connected to the body or directly to the heater terminal. Bruster wetted in homemade electrolyte. After that, a moistened tassel is vigorously water at the site of the breaking of the thread. The processing place is gradually covered by the electrolysis process with copper particles.

1st way:
- On the stuffing glass, turn on the heating and in the place of breaking the glass quickly turns the spot, while the whole thread does not turn with the rupture.

2nd way:
- To detect the rear window heater rupture, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window heater.
- Connect one probe voltmeter with a mass of the car, and the second probe wrap the foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the probe voltmeter in the center of each conductor of the rear window heater. If the voltmeter shows the voltage of about 5 B, it means that the heater conductor is working. If a voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break of the heater conductor.
- To detect the heater conductor break location, connect one voltmeter probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and the second probe move along the heater conductor from the negative heater terminal. A point in which the voltage shown by the voltmeter will fall from several volts to zero and is the place of rupture of the heater conductor.

3rd way:
- Ommeter, in Kilo mode, and better than mego. One probe clings to one conclusion of the heater, the second probe to another conclusion of the heater. Take a piece of moistened wool in distilled water and lead them along the heater threads, monitor the readings of the kilo, the megohommeter at the point of the cliff arrow will rush.
- Ommeter is better to use analog (with an arrow).
- Works in case the break in one place!

Directly repairing threads:

In all the methods listed below, it is preliminarily to clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - bent steel wire, clip) until the metallic shine is appeared and degreased.

1st method (conductive paste):
- Restore the torn conductor of the rear window heater can with the use of conductive paste.
- Before repairing, turn off the rear glass heating and allow the glass to cool the glass.
- Observing care, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- Use the sticky ribbon to mark the repaired area.
- Apply the electrically conductive paste about 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste for 24 hours you can use the heater of the rear window. You can dry at high temperatures, then you can use heating earlier.

2nd method (electrolytic coating):
- Copper sulfate is needed from the reagents - more known as copper sulfate (applied in crop production), and sulfuric acid - it is quite suitable for electrolyte from the ackamulator.
- From the tool - the segment of copper (preferably precisely copper - not brass. It is quite suitable for several segments of the copper wire folded in the beam) tube or a rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a tissue strip 20-30 mm wide and a length of an approximately halfter.
- At the end of the bar, you should hide the strip of the fabric on half of its width - there should be something like tastes. From above, you must put a bandage from the thread so that the fabric does not work out.
- Preparation of electrolyte - not to be confused with an electrolyte of the accumulator - also does not represent complexity. In the floor-glass of water, a couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate is poured, and it is stirred before dissolution, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting district, it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is approximately half a teaspoon of electrolyte on these half-table.
- Actually process. Both glass terminals are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at it is at least one warming thread - it is not necessary to do anything), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a cloth. We urinate the positive electrode in the solution and begin to actively and continuously rub the seat of the thread cliff within 3-5 minutes. Through the solution passes the current that transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating thread. With a slight damage, the thread, the gap is completely delayed with copper, with large gaps, deposited areas should be irradiated with a non-heated soldering iron and solder the jumper from the thin wire. Limit current is not required, because After a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. We should not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!

3rd way (paint with chips):
- Take a copper-brass bar (graphite suitable) and a small file started to make a chips.
- Paint (you can red, under the color of the threads) mixed with chips, the proportion of about 50/50. It should be a tough mixture.
- It turns on heating and paint to the thread, pre-making stencil from the isol or tape. In the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the point of contact, then it was gone, but the thread warmed up.
- done. Literally after a minute, the composition is free.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- Prepare very small iron sawdust, small size magnet (from speaker) and transparent glue (type BF 2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the breakdown, then from the side of the conductor, sprinkle sawdust, quietly moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the site of the break (this will be noticeably heated by the strip - unless of course the gap in one place, otherwise you will need more magnets).
- Apply a small brush with a brush drop of glue on the sawdust and give dry glue (lacquer).
- Then remove the magnet and the blade to remove excess sawdust. You can re-apply another layer of glue (varnish).
- Enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- Special adhesives for the restoration of heating threads, there are Russian production
- Reviews are contradictory, someone likes, someone does not
- Instructions for use attached to glue
- It is recommended to add a little iodine to adhesive. In this case, the glue is red and the color coincides with the rest of the threads.

6th Method (Association):
- damage places can be soldered with a soft low-headed POS-18 or POSS-4-6, using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged - it is better to solder a thin copper or a silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, a spreadshew raw with a touch of a non-tight power relay) should be poured into a fold of paper sheet, add a drop of nitrocea. Quickly roll the cylinder with a knife with a length of 2 ... 3 and a diameter of 1 mm and impose it to the place of damage. Then - crushing to close the sawdust tightly, and delete too much.

The heating system of the rear window TC is a common equipment for almost every modern machine. The purpose of this functional supplement is to eliminate ice crust or sprousing from glass in winter. If the heating of the rear window does not work, the visibility is deteriorating, and the driver is deprived of the ability to rationally assess the circumstances on the roadway behind its own car. Restore safe driving will allow the speedy repairs.

Device of heating system

To understand how to restore the heating of the rear window, it is worth pre-examining the principle of operation of this system. Its goal is to eliminate fogging and preventing air cutting in the cabin. In winter, this function is indispensable because icing evenly leaves glass and at the moment when you already need to go, the review is 100% free.

The principle of operation of such a system in the case of the windshield is the effectiveness of directional air flow.

If we are talking about the rear window, compact heating elements come into operation, the source of which is the electrical network. Metal tracks are fixed on the surface of the glass from the cabin. These are numerous thinnest ribbons through which electricity passes, activating the heat release process. As a result - due to the heating of the glass, the water evaporates and the surface becomes transparent in a couple of minutes.

Scheme of work

To know how to restore the heating of the rear window of the car and with a high level of professionalism to come up to the repair, learn the principle of operation and the electrical circuit of connecting wires. From the terminal + battery power goes to the ignition lock, then on the fuses and last on the controller. After such a path, it follows the power contact relay. TC Body is associated with minus battery output. The activation of the heater supplies the voltage to the relay winding, then the power contacts are closed, there is also a connection of relay conclusions. The current flows by parallel to the connected tapes of the heater, then it falls on a minus output through the body of the machine.

Remember, the activation of the heater is possible only with the activated ignition key.

In some cases, a launched motor appears in the role of factor activation. Such a feature is due to the fact that the battery should not be prematurely discharged, and given the features of each brand of the car, the amount of consumption of this system can be 10-25 A.

Sources problems

Since to restore the heating of the rear window with their own hands prefer many drivers, you need to know about the options for repair, taking into account the source of the problem. In an independent check of the functional components of the machine there will be no obstacles if you have minimal automotive repair skills.

The safety element is the first thing that should attract your attention when the breakage is detected, since the system will not work if it overwhelms. The localization of this element varies depending on the machine model, so at this stage you will have to seek help from the TC service book. Next, remove the fuse and make sure it is working. Rear window heating repair will be limited to the replacement element.

The breakdown of the system relay can also lead to the opening of the heating. In this situation, the installation of the fresh item will also be enough.

Wiring

If the fuse replacement has not corrected the situation, proceed to the diagnostics of the feeding electrical conductors. Burning, fastening breakdown or fracture contribute to stopping current flow to heating poles. To detect this circumstance, turn on the heating button and measure the terminal tester voltage. You can detect the terminals at the bottom of the glass or on its sides. The lack of voltage on the wires should alert you.

Examine the entire path of wiring for integrity, clean the contacts of the terminals and connections. Oxidation in these zones often lead to voltage supply lock. If it was not possible to cope with this task, it will help you autoelectric.

In case of damage to the heating tapes, it may also be necessary to restore the heating of the rear window. To know how to do this, it is necessary to pre-explore the peculiarities of the workflow in this area. The heating element receives the voltage and the energy follows the threads. In relation to the base, they are connected in parallel and perform the role of current conductors. Their heating is due to a certain fraction of resistance, despite the insignificant heating temperature, it is enough for its purpose. If one or more threads are damaged, there is no current on them, therefore, these sites are not heated. Features of repair work in such a situation are described slightly lower.

Controls

If all the items that you checked earlier are good, you should pay attention to the power button. It is possible to determine the operation of the system along the lighting light indicator, which makes it necessary to know after pressing the button. If everything is activated and the corresponding indicators made itself felt, but the glass does not heat, it is likely to wear or burn the working contacts of the toggler, so the energy is not served. Repair of the heating of the rear window of the car requires only replacement of the button.

Import cars

In the case of imported machines, the repair of rear window heating does not limit itself to the diagnosis of the standard heating system, since the rear view mirrors are also equipped with heating. The activation of the heating of the glass of the feed leads to a parallel activation of the mirror warming up. If the system does not work on both zones, the most likely probability is that you are dealing with the cause discussed in the first point - a fuse or relay.

It is important to determine which fuses are connected with glass, because there are several of them. It will not be superfluous to diagnose the electronic board, which due to the disappearance of contacts and the rupture of the tracks is often wearing.

Phased repair

It is paramount to diagnose and purchase a repair kit. Repair kit options can be somewhat and below the repair technology in each case.

In addition to visual diagnostics of the state of the threads, there are several more methods, more reliable and effective:

1. Visual diagnostics requires the activation of the heater when the rear window swam. Where the threads are torn, the surface almost instantly will move, whereas in the rest of the zones will be problematic.
2. Using a voltmeter requires ignition activation and further turn on the heating system. One dipstick should lie on the mass of the vehicle, and the second near the center of the heating ribbon. Pre-second probe wrap foil. The opening will be localized in the zone where the voltage will rise to 12 V or fall to zero. Ideally, this parameter should not exceed 5 V.
3. The second method of using a voltmeter implies fixation of one probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and the second must be moved along the tape of the negative terminal. The problem point will be where the voltage is zero.
4. The use of an ohmmeter requires activation of the Kilo regime. The device must be analog, with an arrow. Probes should be located near the system conclusions that are in opposite sides of each other. Use distilled water to wet your wool, which you need to smoothly spend on the tape. As soon as the appliance arrow fade, you can detect the cliff area.

Repair conductive glue

Repairing the rear window heating yarns can be carried out using conductive glue. It is designed for temperature range from -60 to +100 degrees. Do not choose sets with glue, the cost of which is 150-200 rubles. Often they are enough for a while or they can be ineffective at all. The cost of 300-400 rubles will be optimal for such a set.

Procedure for performing work:

1. Explore the instructions attached to the set. You must have a clear idea of \u200b\u200bthe embodiments of the composition and the speed of its full drying.
2. Prepare a problem surface. Moisten the rag in the alcohol solution and wipe the site.
3. Slightly clean the edges in the cliff zone with zero emery paper. It is enough to simply remove the flare and the tag with two movements.
4. Take advantage of the scotch even to wake strips through the thickness of the sides. It should not overlap the thread, but also avoid the departure from the tape for a long distance. Focusing specifically on the width of the thread.
5. Start applying a conductive adhesive on the prepared zone with a tassel or a syringe. From the instructions you will learn how many layers need to be applied. Fall on the working zones of the tape should be 1 cm left and right.
6. Liquid your tape and wait for the composition to dry. Previously, this will not happen.
7. Check the performance of the system after drying.

Among the demanded and reliable manufacturers of the repair kit, which includes threads, it is worth highlighting Quick and Permatex. Such options are suitable for repairing even extensive plots, even ate we are talking about 10 cm. The package assumes the presence of heating tapes, a polymer resin in the form of a spray and stencils.

The repair of the heater is reduced to the following actions:

• determine the rupture zone and prepare the filament of the appropriate size;
• eliminate the protective film and use the resin to fix the threads in the required zone;
• after complete drying, repeat the manipulation and check the result after 2 days.

Alternative method

Folk methods will also rise to restore the threads. The difference between them is only in the material used:

1. Chips in combination with paint. The first material will be able to get copper and brass from the bar, which must be treated with files. Pick up the paint so that it is combined with a shade of heating tapes. Mix the components in the same proportions until you reach the mild dough consistency. Use an insulating tape or scotch to create a stencil. Stick stencil and activate heating. It is possible to determine the contact by characteristic hiss. Apply a mixture on a stencil. This method allows you to get rid of the need to wait for a day. You can operate the car immediately after the manipulations performed.
2. The breakdown of the breakfast is carried out using zinc chloride. Prefer the act with the minimum content of tin - POSS-4-6 or POS-18. He lived from copper or silver is suitable for repairing an extensive ribbon section.

If the heating of the rear window of the car is not working in the winter period, visibility is significantly reduced, undermining the safety of the driver and passengers. That is why when identifying a malfunction should immediately do repair.

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How does the heating of the rear window work?

All circuits of heating rear window auto are similar and practically do not have significant differences among themselves. AvtoVAZ models, as well as imported cars are equipped with the same type of construction and the principle of functioning. Thin tracks are applied to the surface of the rear window - conductive threads. Passing electricity forces them to warm them. From the outside of the glass there is a rapid melting of snow and ice, and the inner part of the surface gets rid of fogging.

Scheme of heating

Before detecting malfunctions of the device and try to eliminate them, you should familiarize yourself with the heating scheme and deal with the components necessary for its stable operation.

Auto rear window heating circuit

Deciphering the scheme:

• 1 - conductive threads;
• 2 - indication on the instrument panel;
• 3 - button on / off;
• 4 - Ignition Castle;
• 5 - relays;
• 6 - Mounting block.

On the video you will learn how to repair the heating of the rear window yourself. The roller is provided by Experiment _ TV.

Possible malfunctions of the device

If the heating of the rear window does not work, then one of the above components fell out or an open circuit occurred. You can check all nodes of the heating device yourself if there is at least the slightest idea of \u200b\u200bthe repair of machines. Below in detail we consider the causes of the malfunction of each node.

System fuse

Initially, when heated problems occur, make sure that the safety element is integrity. Its burnout will affect the device performance. Each automaker in its models accommodates this fuse in different places. To quickly find its location, it is recommended to use the instruction manual for the car or service book.

It is necessary to remove the found item and check for suitability. The blurring fuse should be changed to a new one, otherwise further attempts to search for glass heating faults will be meaningless.

Relay

One of the reasons for the failure of glass heating can be a relay fault, this element is located in the mounting block. The relay turns off the heating when the motor stops working. This device is not subject to recovery, so it is changed to the new one.

Wiring faults

If the fuse and relays are in good condition, the diagnosis of electrical wires is required. They probably broke, burned out or cut off at the place of attachment. In this case, the heating strips will not receive voltage.

Test the condition of the nutrient electrical conductors like this:

1. You need to turn on the heating button.
2. Using a multimeter, check the voltage on the first and second terminal for connecting the wires to the "tires" of heating. They are located at the bottom or on both sides of the glass. The absence of stress is the cause of the inoperability of the heater.

The first thing you want to take in this case is to clean the contacts of the terminals and all the plots of the connection, they can oxidize and do not pass the current. If the tester still gives "0", it means somewhere in the wiring there is a break. A visual inspection of the entire path of electrical caps is performed. Finding suspicious or damaged areas, you need to connect them, since in these places, it may have occurred.

Thread

Heating stripes are also affected by damage. Before looking for a problem area, you should read directly with the workflow in the threads.

The voltage supply is carried out on the entire heating node and dispersed evenly for each parallel to the connected tape. As a result, these tapes perform the role of electrical conductors. Due to the resistance heats up to a small temperature, which is enough to remove ice and snow from the glass surface. If the integrity of one of the threads is broken, the electric current will stop circulating according to it, the heating of this glass area will not be performed.

Night integrity disorder

Controls

When you click on the button, the indicator that is notified about the start of work should light up. If the switch is activated, the indicator is lit, and the heating still does not occur, it means that the contacts of the buttons came into disrepair. As a result, the supply of electricity to the heater is not carried out. The wired toggle switch is not repaired - you need to install a new one.

Repair of heating with their own hands

The most common cause of non-working heating is damage to thin conductive threads. Modern technologies allow you to restore the sections of the cliff of these threads with their own hands without attracting specialists.

Search Fitution Cliff

First you need to find damaged strands. The process will not take a long time, as the cliffs are excellent noticeable with the naked eye. Multiple damages are extremely rare, which are difficult to see, in this case you need to use a voltmeter.

The thread has a resistance of 10 ohms, its voltage is specified on each site. In the first - tension equals twelve volts, on the third - already six, and on the fifth - zero. To search for the cliff, the voltage in the center of each element is measured. If there is damage, the multimeter will give 12 or 0 volts, it is clear from here that a break from the left or right side of the thread.

Troubleshooting the heater using copper solution

To work, you will need:

• sulfuric acid;
• copper rod, diameter up to 10 mm;
• copper sulphate;
• tissue band 50x30 cm;
• scotch;
• scissors;
• glass cleaning agent.

Repair damage to the conductive threads are necessary like this:

1. At the first stage it is important to prepare a surface with damage to restoration work. To do this, use the rag moistened in alcohol and wipe it glass. When the dirt is completely removed, degrease the surface.
2. We glue the tape on both sides of the conductive thread at the break point. Sticky tape is fucked so that the width between the strips corresponded to the heating thread.
3. Copper rod from one end is winding with a cloth. The so-called brush is fixed with threads.
4. Copper solution is prepared. Half of the glass of water is thoroughly mixed with two teaspoons of copper sulfate. A slightly concentrated sulfuric acid or electrolyte from car batteries is added to the resulting liquid.
5. Terminals from the heating device are connected to the mass. The wire from the "positive" terminal of the battery is connected to a previously made tissue of a metal rod.
6. The resulting electrode impregnated in solution is thoroughly rubbed the sections of the torn threads. The ends of serious cliffs are pre-processed using an electrician. They also establishes a binder jumper from the finest wire. As a result, slightly damaged areas are tightened with copper.

Troubleshooting the heater with a conductive adhesive

Conductive glue is a specialized pasta, which includes a fine powder palladium, as well as nickel gold or silver. Thanks to the elements listed, this substance perfectly conducts current and is characterized by good connecting properties. The process of restoring the heating threads of feed glass with a conductive adhesive is faster and more efficient.

To proceed to restore threads, we perform the same procedures for cleaning the glass surface and the damaged area of \u200b\u200bthe tape. For the preparation of conductive glue in repair kits, two substances are provided that should be carefully mixed in a separate container. How to prepare the composition and further use it for the purpose is written in the instructions on the package.

The application of glue occurs with a brush or cotton sticks, the size of the layer should not exceed 2 mm. The average time of pouring the conductive composition is 30 minutes. After 24 hours, we remove the excess substance, this is done using a knife or any acute subject.

When removing excess conductive adhesives should be used extremely gently, otherwise the surface of the heating device will be damaged again.

Video "Repair threads of heating rear window"

Detailed explanation of the repair of heating threads. The roller is taken from the channel "Logbook Renault Megan".

Good day. Today we will talk about how to repair the heating of the rear window. Traditionally, for our site, the article contains many photos and video materials and is a step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm.

How does heating glass work?

I think everyone remembers physics from the course of high school. When the electric current is leaking on the conductor, it heats up. It is in this principle that the heating of the rear window works.

If you carefully look at the glass, from the sides you will see the contacts and the supply current of the wire.

When voltage is applied to these terminals, the electric current flows along the heating threads and heats the glass, making it.

Accordingly, the glass heating does not work in just two cases:

• fortified threads of heating
• no tension on terminals

How to repair heating if one or more of the heating threads are faulty?

This malfunction looks like this:

For repair we need:

• emery paper from 1500 to 2500, 1 sheet with any grain. It is needed to remove oxides and varnish with damage to the threads.
• alcohol, better isopropyl (we will wipe the glass from dust and degrease damage)
• napkins, microfiber, cotton swabs or rags (for wipping).
• electrically conductive glueIn stores it is not always, so if you are ready to wait, I recommend ordering it directly in China (they will restore damaged threads).

Repair procedure:

carefully inspect faulty heating threads and looking for damage, they usually look like this:

The locations of damage neatly cleaver the sandpaper trying not to touch the glass, we only clean the heating threads themselves and then next to damage. If the glass itself is rubbed by sandpaper, it will become matte, and it will not be released, since the heating threads are not applied.

We wipe the alcohol using a cotton swab stripped surfaces. At the same time, we will relieve, and dust from sandwich and defascarm surface.

Carefully apply electrically conductive glue on damaged sections. In order to apply glue directly, not a spot, it is better to use a tension or greasy tape. As shown in the video in the conclusion of the article.

Tassel apply electrically conductive glue.

We wait for the drying of the glue, check, make sure everything works and rejoice in savvy money ....

What if heating does not work at all?

If heating does not work at all, two options are possible. Or faulty all the heating threads are faulty (this is unlikely, even on the machines with 30-40 years, one two threads are warm) ... or wiring faulty.

A person without special education can check only 3 things:

The location of these things can be found from the instruction manual for your car.

If, after checking, the method of replacement, you have heated and did not earn, it will be better to turn to the electrician to the station. Services.

How to repair heating if on the glasses toning?

I do not want to upset you, but most likely the answer is in any way! Since to apply electrically conductive glue, you in any case will have locally (locally) to remove tint. I'm not sure that you can cut a piece of tinting only with a damaged thread. In any case, the tonirovka will get an ugly hole ....

Therefore, if you need to repair one or more heating threads on a tinted glass, toning, unfortunately, will have to be removed.

Conclusion.

As you can see, the repair of glass heating does not represent difficulties, of course, if there is due accuracy and desire.

Obviously, the easiest option is not to repair the threads, but to replace the glass, but think about how, because if the buyer sees glasses of different years of release, then at least you will tell you that the car was a bat.

I have everything today. I hope that you have no questions about how to repair the heating of the rear window. If you have questions, or if you want to add an article, write comments.