Calibration of the Toyota Corolla 150 robot. Typical problems of a robotic gearbox

Do-it-yourself initialization of the Toyota Corolla robot box is an accessible procedure for motorists. It is not necessary to go to a specialized car service to solve this problem. It is enough to study the instructions in detail, watch a video on this topic, get acquainted with the Techstream program, and the setting will become available to any owner of a Toyota Corolla 2008, 2006, 2007 model year.

How is initialization done?

After replacing any parts, the operation of the robotic transmission may be impaired. In order for MMT to work flawlessly again, initialization is required. The instructions must be followed clearly, otherwise the procedure will have to be repeated.

First of all, you need to figure out what a robot box is, then the initialization of the MMT will become an easier process to understand and execute. The robot is structurally different from a conventional automatic transmission. It works more clearly, does not allow jerks, shifts without delay, the driver does not need to apply any mechanical force to change gear.

MMT is equipped with an ECU control unit, there is a position sensor, as well as sensors to control the movement of the machine. A conventional manual transmission has a robotic drive that independently selects a gear. The car has a clutch: you can set automatic, manual or semi-automatic operation of the robot.

It is convenient to use this system on Corolla:

  • fuel consumption will be like a manual transmission;
  • has high reliability;
  • switches independently, like an automatic.\u003e

What are the problems?

The first Toyota Corolla with a robotic gearbox appeared in 2006. The transmission was imperfect and had a number of problems. The control unit often malfunctioned, initialization had to be done every 10 thousand km. If this was not done, the clutch disc began to overheat, which is why it had to be changed every 50 thousand km. In traffic jams, the car moved in jerks, the ECU also malfunctioned.

Initialization is a reset of all ECU settings. Corolla 2007 or a car of another year of manufacture may require initialization if any part of the mechanism has been replaced (for example, after replacing the clutch, sensors, electric drive), if the ECU stops working normally. Calibration is needed if the system produces unknown errors or malfunctions.

Is initialization always useful?

There are times when the ECU does not need to be initialized.

Do not carry out the procedure too often: regular initialization of the robot will lead to increased wear on the system.

When the drive is installed incorrectly, a reset is not required if gear changes are lagging or uneven at low speed. The clutch actuator settings will not help if you need to pull off more smoothly or quickly.

All actions related to the initialization of the checkpoint or unit should be carried out after inspection by professionals and their direct recommendations or obvious reasons for that. Before initializing the Toyota Corolla 150 robotic gearbox with your own hands, you need to consult with a specialist who is well familiar with the operation and problems of the manual transmission on this car model.

How is the procedure going?

It is advisable to entrust specialists to train the robot, but you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to set the car on the handbrake, close the contacts in the DLC3 block using a needle, paper clip or other thin and long object. You need to connect CG and TC numbers 13 and 4, then you need to turn on the ignition without starting the engine and press the brake 7-10 times. You will hear a duplicate sound alert: this means that diagnostics have started. The brake pedal must then remain depressed. You will need to configure the ECU as follows: N - E - V - select "minus" - M - again "minus" - M - E - N.

After the electronic unit is configured, you can begin to adapt the clutch operation. The following combination is required: N - E - M - "+" - M - "-" - M - "+" - M - "-" - E - N. When setting up MMT, you must follow the sequence: N - E - M - " - "- M -" - "- M -" + "- M -" + "- E - N.

Release and apply the brake again, this will adjust the selected item. If the adaptation of the robot is correct, the system will notify you with sound signals: first you will hear them 2, then 3, and then 4. After that, it is permissible to turn off the ignition and disconnect the vehicle and the CG.

If, during the debugging procedure, the system notifies you with long signals or this happens after it ends, then you have done something wrong.

The solution to the problem is as follows: you need to remove the key from the ignition and pause for at least 20 seconds. After that, the system will reboot and you can try to configure the trainable robot again.

How to work with ECU?

If the control unit does not function properly, it is advisable not to try to correct the errors yourself. The intervention of a specialist is required, if incorrectly configured, the system is capable of starting to shut down or give other failures.

The tuning of the ECU should occur only after the debugging of the operation of the manual transmission and all its control units has been completed.

Box initialization

Before starting the system, you need to prepare it. Set the gearbox lever to neutral. Wait until the necessary settings are made, and turn on the ignition, after 20-25 seconds turn it off. After that, you can start the car engine. The brake pedal must be depressed. If all settings are correct, the “N” light will start blinking. After 15 seconds of blinking, it will be on constantly: this means the end of debugging.

Conclusion

We briefly talked about why we need to initialize a robotic box. Not every motorist is an expert in technical matters, not everyone can understand why this unit is working intermittently. Therefore, we recommend that you entrust the production of this procedure to employees of special services who have all the necessary equipment and experience. Professional assistance will not allow important elements of the mechanism to "burn out".

Toyota clutch replacement corolla with a robot gear shifting. Everyone has heard a lot about the fact that the robot on Toyota is very capricious and should be avoided.

If you came to this site, then apparently you are the owner of this car and you need qualified help. I will try to describe everything clearly for you.

First of all, in MMT, the clutch fails. The average clutch mileage according to our practice is 70 - 90 thousand mileage. It all depends on the intensity of driving and the conditions in which the car is used. In city driving, the mileage is less, since the clutch works constantly. But when used in intercity mode, it is larger.

There are some tips for extending clutch life. The first is switch MMT to neutral when stopping at long traffic lights and in traffic jams. This will relieve stress on the clutch actuator and the clutch itself. Second, don't drive aggressively. The clutch is responsible for all the gear shifting load. And the third - from time to time it is worth driving in the manual transmission mode. The control unit remembers your driving style over time and will try to repeat it in automatic mode.

Change the oil at MMT every 60 thousand runs. The manufacturer does not provide for oil change in MMT. He calculates it for the entire service life - 100 thousand kilometers. In practice, problems arise with MMT.

Mechanical faults of the MultiMode gearbox.

Mechanical failure is mechanical wear of the clutch parts. Mainly clutch wear and overheating, in which the grip loses its functional ability. The main symptom of a clutch failure is slipping. This results in a loss of torque at high speeds or when starting abruptly. In case of mechanical faults the system enters emergency mode and resets the transmission to neutral. Displays the error code P0810. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to replace the clutch kit, which includes the basket, clutch disc and release bearing.

Crunch in MMT when switching from second to third gear... This is due to the wear of the third gear synchronizer. The reasons are partly not in the timely oil change, in the failure to adapt the clutch or in its violation. In the launched version, it leads to the failure of the gear package for engaging the third gear and the gear selection mechanism.

The hum from the MMT when the car is moving. Due to an untimely oil change or its leakage, the bearings of the primary and secondary shaft fail. Eliminated by replacing the rear bearings of the input and output shafts.



Electrical malfunctions of the MultiMode gearbox.

Malfunctions in the electrical system of this gearbox are expressed in several versions. The first is a malfunction in the setting or initialization of the clutch. Typical signs are jerking at the start. The second is a reset to neutral when the clutch overheats. A red gear-shaped icon lights up on the display, indicating a malfunction in the transmission. After a while, the system starts working again. When carrying out diagnostics, you can find out the nature of the malfunction by the error code. Let's consider a couple of the most common ones. The first is P0810 - clutch position control errorThis error occurs both with a mechanical failure of the clutch and with an electronic failure. Error P0900 - open circuit in the actuator pin drive motor circuit. This error directly indicates an open circuit in the wiring or failure of the clutch actuator motor.

The drive motor is changed separately. The cost of the motor is 6000 rubles.

Consider in practice how to replace a clutch on a robot.

To replace the clutch, we need a clutch kit - this is a disc with a clutch basket and a clutch release bearing. Everything in the original is desirable.



Disconnect the MAF sensor connector, air duct clamps and air filter housing cover latches. Then we unscrew the lower part of the air filter housing.



We unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox cushion, but do not remove it. Disconnect all connectors from the checkpoint. Then we unscrew the upper mounting bolts.


We unscrew the hub nuts and fastening the ball joint to the lever for removing the drive shafts. Pre-drain the oil from the gearbox.

We unscrew the front gearbox mounting pillow and take out the drive shafts from the box for the convenience of dismantling the gearbox.



We install thrust struts on the gearbox and the engine so that it does not sag and slightly raise the gearbox to remove the upper gearbox mounting bolt, which we unscrewed from above in advance. As you can see in the photo, oil "snotty" from the left drive oil seal, which is why the cavity turned black. During installation, we will replace it with a new one to eliminate oil leakage. Next, we unscrew the gearbox mounting bolts in a circle and pull the box from the motor with a mount, it sits tightly on the guide bushings. And now the checkpoint is already on the floor.



Remove the old clutch from the flywheel and check the flywheel itself for wear. Wear should not exceed 03 - 05 mm and its surface should be flat and smooth. As a rule, the flywheel rarely fails.


Place the new clutch on the flywheel and center the clutch disc. We change the release bearing for a new one. And we install the checkpoint. The assembly procedure is exactly the opposite.

After assembly, the clutch is initialized (adapted).

Clutch initialization of Toyota Corolla and Toyota Auris.

Before you start self-initializing the clutch, remember - if you fail to initialize correctly, P the broadcasts will stop turning on and to transport the car to the service, you will have to call a tow truck.

In place of SST, you can use a simple wire, connect the indicated contacts with it.

1. Prepare the vehicle (a "):
1. Stop the car.
2. Move the shift lever to N.
3. Switch off the ignition.
2. Using SST, connect pins TC and CG of the DLC3 connector.
3. Wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Switch on the ignition (IG).
5. Press the brake pedal at least 7 times within 3 seconds.
The buzzer emits 2 beeps at 0.25 s intervals.
6. Press the brake pedal.
7. While holding down the brake pedal, move the gear shift lever in the following sequence.
1. When initializing the ECU: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e E\u003e N.
2. When initializing the clutch: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e -\u003e E\u003e N.
3. When initializing transmission: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e +\u003e E\u003e N.

8. Release the brake pedal.
9. Press the brake pedal again.
The buzzer will beep at 0.5 second intervals for the number of times specified below (interval between cycles is 2.5 seconds).
1. Twice when initializing the ECU (1 cycle)
2. Three times when initializing the clutch (1 cycle)
3. Four times at transmission initialization (1 cycle)
NOTE:
1. If the buzzer does not beep as described above, turn off the ignition and wait at least 15 seconds. Then repeat from step (a ").
2. If the buzzer sounds at intervals of 1 s (instead of 0.5 s), turn off the ignition and wait at least 15 s. Then repeat from step (a ").
10. Press the brake pedal at least 3 times within 2 seconds.
The buzzer will beep 2 times at 0.25 s intervals.
11. Switch off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.
12. Initialization is complete.
13. Disconnect SST from pins TC and CG of the DLC3 connector.

Toyota Corolla is a very popular car that is considered not only of high quality, but also reliable. Nevertheless, no matter how reliable the car is, some parts sometimes fail or need some kind of adjustment. One of these parts is the clutch. If you change it, or change the accompanying components, the clutch must be adjusted. Fortunately, it is very simple to do this and the operation should not cause any difficulties even for those people who do not understand cars.

Clutch adjustment

The most interesting thing is that the entire adjustment process is carried out without any special diagnostic equipment. Naturally, the first step is to adjust the clutch position. This is easy to do and at the very beginning you will need to prepare the car for the subsequent operation. To do this, you will need to put the gears in position N with the engine running, then turn off the engine and put on the handbrake. The next step is to bridge the contacts in the DLC3 connector for diagnostics. You can see the detailed location of all connectors in the instructions for the car.

If you are not ready to view it, then just remember the following location: jumper the 4th connector on the left in the top row and the 5th connector on the left in the bottom row. The effect will only be achieved after a 10 second press. Without pressing the brake pedal, turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine, as this may interfere with correct adjustment. Then, within 3 seconds, quickly release the brake 7 times, after which the buzzer will emit several short beeps. When the signal ends, press the brake pedal and, without releasing, do the following gear changes: N E M + M + M + M + M E N. Be careful when making these changes. When you turn on the plus, you do not need to return to neutral or any other mode. The box can be switched to the neutral position only after the last step. You can now release the brake pedal.

After a few seconds, you will need to press the brake pedal again. In this case, the buzzer will again start emitting short beeps at a short interval. Be careful at this stage. In the event that the buzzer does not give signals, or there is a break of 1 second between the signals, all actions, starting from the very beginning, will need to be done again. In this case, do not forget about the need to turn off the ignition and a 15-second wait.

If everything is in order, then press the brake for 2 seconds at least 3 times. As in the first case, the buzzer should emit two short beeps at intervals of 0.25 seconds.

Next, follow the familiar procedure for depressing the gas pedal. In this case, the gear selector will need to be set to minus and the brake released. After that, turn off the ignition completely and after a break of 10-15 seconds, disconnect the contacts from the previously bridged contacts.

Clutch initialization

After adjusting the clutch using the MMT sensor, it is necessary to initialize it. This procedure also does not require any additional equipment from you.

As in the previous case, you will need to prepare the vehicle. This process consists of shifting the gear into neutral and turning off the vehicle ignition. Next, you need to close the same contacts as in the previous case and wait at least 10 seconds, then turn on the ignition, but do not start. As before, within 3 seconds, you must quickly depress the brake pedal 7 times. The buzzer will emit 2 short beeps at 0.25 second intervals.

Immediately after that, hold down the accelerator pedal and, without releasing it, change gears in the following sequence: N E M + - + - M E N. At the end of the switching procedure, release the brake pedal and press it back. In this case, the buzzer will beep twice every half second. If you did not wait for any signals or they sound at too long an interval, turn off the ignition, wait 10 seconds and repeat all over again. If everything went well, then release the brake pedal and press it 3 times within 2 seconds. As a result, the buzzer will emit two short beeps. Then turn off the ignition and wait 10 seconds. The device initialization process can be considered complete. Contacts from the diagnostic connector can be removed and proceed to direct clutch adjustment.

Clutch setting

With this operation, you no longer need to bridge the contacts, so it will seem somewhat easier to you. The process of preparing the car, as in the previous stages, is to shift the gearbox to neutral and turn off the ignition.

As for the direct tuning procedure, first turn on the ignition and wait 40-50 seconds. After that, turn off the ignition and wait another 20-25 seconds. Now don't just turn on the ignition, but start the engine with the gearbox in neutral. Be careful, as when the engine is turned on, the N indicator will light up on the information panel. Do nothing while doing this and wait until the indicator stops flashing. If the indicator starts to light constantly, the setting can be considered complete.

Toyota Corolla supports the installation of the following transmission types: automatic transmission, manual transmission, variator and robot. The Corolla robot can be found on a foreign car, where the volume of the power unit is 1.4, 1.6 liters. The robotic transmission has absorbed the advantages of automatic and manual transmissions. Fuel consumption on this vehicle is approximately the same as fuel consumption if a mechanic is present on the car.

Diagnostics of Toyota Corolla with a robot

The main advantage of having a robot on the Corolla is smooth movement along the track. This version of the box includes an ECU control unit with sensors. This improves driving efficiency.

The robotic boxes on the Corolla are designated MMT.

Appearance of a robotic gearbox

It is necessary to diagnose a robot box on a Toyota Corolla in the following cases:

  • extraneous sounds when gear changes occur;
  • difficulty changing speeds;
  • spontaneous activation of speed modes.

In some cases, this is due to the fact that non-original oils are used. The worse the quality of the liquid is poured into the automotive system, the faster the gearbox will lose its working properties.

The clutch disc can function over 60,000 km. This indicator is influenced by the driving style of the vehicle owner. Timely replacement of the transmission oil prevents the occurrence of premature failure.

Repair and restoration work

The cost of repairing the robot remains acceptable. It is possible to eliminate extraneous noise from the gearbox side by replacing the release bearings. This procedure can be carried out in a garage.

As a rule, during the maintenance of a Toyota Corolla car with manual transmission, initialization is required. This will help identify existing problems. Initialization of the box is the process of resetting the previous settings of the gearbox ECU. It should be noted that frequent initialization has a negative effect on the coupling. This will lead to accelerated wear and tear of its auto parts. In winter, the owner of a foreign car may face such a problem as the loss of functionality of the sensor, which is responsible for changing the speed modes.

For each individual version of the car, a certain amount of transmission fluid is required (approximately 2-2.5 liters). For a Toyota Corolla with a robot, add oil that matches the SAE 75W viscosity (GL-4 grade). Replacement on the Corolla 2007 robot box is possible both partial and complete.

Replacing the clutch on a Toyota Corolla with robotic gear shifting. Everyone has heard a lot about the fact that the robot on Toyota is very capricious and it is worth avoiding it, so I want to say that everything is wrong. Robots on Toyota Corolla and Auris are pretty strong. With regard to their fellows, Honda, Mitsubishi, Opel and Peugeot. The first models with robotic boxes came with minor defects, but toyota corrected the situation by modernizing not modifications in mass production. And the recall of models of old editions, and the replacement with a new model was made absolutely free of charge.

Now let's consider what are the advantages of robotic. Everything was conceived in order to relieve the driver from the obligation to change gears. This is especially annoying in traffic jams and maintain the throttle response and fuel consumption inherent in mechanics, and they succeeded. Its only drawback is the smooth delays in gear changes. The difference in consumption is about 2 liters per hundred kilometers.
The frequency of replacing the clutch on the robot depends on the intensity of the ride. This is approximately from 70 to 120 thousand km. mileage

To replace the clutch we need the clutch kit is a disc with a clutch basket and a clutch release bearing. Everything in the original is highly desirable.


Disconnect the MAF sensor connector, air duct clamps and air filter housing cover latches. Then we unscrew the lower part of the air filter housing.


We unscrew the bolt securing the gearbox pillow but do not remove it. Disconnect all connectors from the checkpoint. Then we unscrew the upper mounting bolts.


We unscrew the hub nuts and fastening the ball joint to the lever for removing the drive shafts. We first drain from the checkpoint.


We unscrew the front gearbox mounting pillow and take out the drive shafts from the box for the convenience of dismantling the gearbox.


We install thrust struts on the gearbox and the engine so that it does not sag and slightly raise the gearbox to remove the upper gearbox mounting bolt which we previously unscrewed from the top. As you can see in the photo, oil snotted from the left drive oil seal, which is why this cavity is black. During installation, we will replace it with a new one to eliminate oil leakage. Next, we unscrew the gearbox mounting bolts in a circle and pull the box from the motor with a pry bar, it sits tightly on the guide bushings. And now the checkpoint is already on the floor.


Remove the old clutch from the flywheel and check the flywheel itself for wear. Wear should not exceed 03 - 05 mm. And its surface should be flat and smooth. As a rule, the flywheel rarely fails.


Place the new clutch on the flywheel and center the clutch disc. We change the release bearing for a new one. And we install the checkpoint. The assembly procedure is exactly the opposite.
After assembly, the clutch is initialized (adapted).

Clutch initialization of Toyota Corolla and Toyota Auris.

Before you start self-initializing the clutch, remember if you cannot initialize correctly. The gears will stop turning on and you will have to call a tow truck to transport the car to the service.
1. Prepare (a "):
- Stop the car.
- Move the gear lever to position N.
- Switch off the ignition.
2. Using SST, connect pins TC and CG of the DLC3 connector.
3. Wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Switch on the ignition (IG).
5. Press the pedal at least 7 times within 3 seconds.
- The buzzer emits 2 beeps at 0.25 s intervals.
6. Press the brake pedal.
7. While holding down the brake pedal, move the gear lever in the following sequence.
- During ECU initialization: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e E\u003e N.
- When initializing the clutch: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e -\u003e E\u003e N.
- When initializing transmission: N\u003e E\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e -\u003e M\u003e +\u003e M\u003e +\u003e E\u003e N.

8. Release the brake pedal.
9. Press the brake pedal again.
- The buzzer will beep at 0.5 second intervals as indicated below (the interval between cycles is 2.5 seconds).
- Twice when initializing the ECU (1 cycle)
- Three times when initializing the clutch (1 cycle)
- Four times at transmission initialization (1 cycle)
NOTE:
- If the buzzer does not beep as described above, turn off the ignition and wait at least 15 seconds. Then repeat from step (a ").
- If the buzzer sounds at intervals of 1 s (and not 0.5 s), turn off the ignition and wait at least 15 s. Then repeat from step (a ").
10. Press the brake pedal at least 3 times within 2 seconds.
- The buzzer will beep 2 times at 0.25 s intervals.
11. Switch off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds.
12. Initialization completed.
13. Disconnect SST from pins TC and CG of the DLC3 connector.