Today, all the owners of Lada Kalina are interested in the question: why does the electric power steering on Kalina not work? After all, this car began to be produced back in November 2004, with electric power steering as standard. The tenth anniversary has passed, but according to the reviews of motorists, this problem still exists.
The electric amplifier consists of an electric motor, a force transmission mechanism and an electronic control system. The control, the operation of the electric booster, is carried out by an electronic unit with three special sensors, which must quickly determine the speed of the car, engine speed and the required effort to turn the front wheels.
During the start of the engine, the electric power steering (EUR) does not work. It turns on only from the moment of reaching 400 rpm crankshaft and stops working when the vehicle accelerates over 60 km. in hour.
Malfunction symptoms
Why the electric power steering does not work on Kalina is impossible to understand right away. Nevertheless, in most cases of malfunctions (EUR), a lamp representing a steering wheel with an exclamation mark should light up on the dashboard. After that, the specialists of the VAZ car plant recommend moving at low speed to the car service.
Why low speed? Because the first years of production (EUR) by the Makhachkala plant, it had the peculiarity of turning the drive wheels of the car as far as possible to the left or right and fixing itself in this position.
There is no need to talk about the consequences... But even if the emergency light on the dashboard does not light up, the steering wheel may start to crack and tremble, or you will feel that the (EUR) sometimes turns off and on on its own, for no apparent reason at all.
The electric motor and the mechanical part (EUR) rarely cause complaints, but the electrical and electronics require a detailed study of the breakdowns.
Debriefing
Electronic control unit (ECU) for electric power steering, fixed in an unfortunate place, under the radiator of the heater stove... Any leaks in this part cause wetting (ECU), after which you will feel that the power steering does not work and the steering wheel has become heavy.
If while driving you notice that the tachometer or speedometer needle is at zero and does not move, be sure that the (EUR) of your car does not work. This is because these devices and (EUR) are involved from the same sensors.
Most often on Kalina,. Buying a new sensor and replacing it solves this problem. There are very frequent cases when replacing sensors does not help, (EUR) still does not work. Begin to methodically probe the entire circuit of wires related to the system (EUR).
And the poor quality of production, connecting plugs and blocks, independently break electrical circuits at the most inopportune moment.
Power steering Kalina, behaves badly when the on-board voltage drops... If, instead of 15 Volts, it gives out less than 30, then the electronic control unit, the power steering, may also refuse to work.
On the Lada Kalina car, depending on the configuration, an electromechanical power steering can be installed. It acts on the steering shaft. Commands to turn it on are given by various sensors. When starting the engine, while the starter is running, the electromechanical amplifier (EUR) is disabled. It comes into operation after the crankshaft reaches the speed 400 rpm... A signal to him about this is given by the crankshaft speed sensor, he also works with a tachometer. When the car is moving at a speed of more than 60 km / h, the EUR is disabled. It receives data on the magnitude of the car's speed from the speedometer, or, to be more precise, from the speed sensor. An electronic control unit controls the operation of the EUR.
In case of failure of the electric power steering, on the instrument panel the control lamp with the steering wheel symbol lights up... Considering that the speed sensor fails most often, the EUR naturally turns off and will not work, although it itself is serviceable. The electronic control unit does not allow it to work, since it does not receive a signal from the speed sensor. The electronic control unit is not in a very good place, since if the heater radiator is not tight, antifreeze will get on it. A wet chip will not work. Naturally the driver will feel this as the steering becomes heavier.
Kalina's electromechanical power steering is sensitive to on-board voltage. According to the technical characteristics, its operating voltage should be in the range of 10.8 - 15 volts. But there are times that the EUR refuses to work, even if the generator produces a voltage of 13 volts. The culprit in this case is not the generator itself, but its voltage relay. In case of failure to operate the electromechanical power steering, for safety reasons, remove the 50 amp fuse in the mounting block from the slot. In this case, you can continue driving the car, but without the amplifier.
Required tools: Phillips and flathead screwdriver, high 13-point head.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and set the wheels of the car straight.
Removing the electric power steering Kalina
First you need to remove the Kalina steering wheel, and then the steering column switches. Disconnect the ignition switch connector from the instrument panel.Remove the ignition switch if necessary.
- Unscrew the 3 self-tapping screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel.
- Disconnect 2 pads of wiring harnesses from the EUR control unit by pressing the clips.
- Disconnect the wiring harness from the steering column switch connector
- Lower the Viburnum steering column to the floor. If necessary, remove the steering column switch connector.
- Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower universal joint to the steering gear shaft using the “13” head. We keep the bolt from turning with the key "13".
- Release the hinge terminal connection using a large flat head screwdriver.
- Remove the intermediate propeller shaft from the steering gear shaft of the Kalina.
Before removing, mark with a marker the relative position of the upper hinge of the propeller shaft relative to the steering shaft.
- Unscrew the nut of the hinge pinch bolt using a 13-key. We keep it from turning with the key "13". Remove the bolt.
- In the photo, the intermediate propeller shaft Lada Kalina.
Installation of electric power steering Kalina
Installation of the intermediate propeller shaft is carried out in the reverse order, aligning with the previously made marks. It is recommended to install the steering column with an assistant.Or, install the column when the lower hinge of the intermediate propeller shaft is installed on the steering gear shaft in advance. For this:
- After connecting the intermediate propeller shaft to the steering shaft, unscrew the nut of the intermediate shaft pinch bolt using the key "13".
We install the lower hinge on the steering gear shaft (the bolt of the hinge to the gear shaft must be vertically on the right side). We turn the steering shaft so that the hole in the upper hinge for the intermediate shaft pinch bolt is located horizontally below the shaft. We connect the upper and lower hinges of the intermediate shaft, insert the tie bolt and tighten the nut.
Further installation is carried out in the reverse order.
Car. Thanks to him, additional effort is created in the system to turn the wheel. In other words, the electric booster helps to "tighten" the steering wheel in the right direction. In fact, this mechanism performs the same functions as the hydraulic booster. Only the latter is more outdated in design and less reliable, which is why it is practically not used on modern cars. In today's article we will look at how the Kalina electric power steering works and what parts it consists of.
This item assumes the following devices:
- electric motor;
- mechanical transmission;
- control systems.
Operating principle
It should be noted that Kalina does not always work. It comes into effect only when the steering wheel is turned, that is, when the steering wheel is turning. In this case, the engine of this electric booster produces the required torque, which depends on the torque on. All these forces are measured by a special sensor, which transmits information to the amplifier ECU. in turn calculates the required power for the engine. How much it will be involved depends on the angle of rotation.
There is another sensor on. It measures the angle of rotation of the wheel. He, like the torque sensor, sends the received data to the amplifier ECU, and he decides how much power must be created for the electric motor in order for the wheel to turn at the right moment.
But that's not all. The Kalina electric power steering has a third sensor at its disposal, which measures the engine speed to obtain feedback in the ECU. It is needed so that the control unit receives correct information about how fast the motor is spinning and whether there is too fast rotation.
How is the rack interconnected with the amplifier motor?
After the control unit has processed all the information, it sends a signal to the engine. The latter, in turn, transmits its force to the rack through the worm gear and the drive gear. The rail itself can be moved in two ways: from the amplifier motor, which is controlled by the unit, and directly from the steering wheel, which the driver drives.
Thus, the Kalina electric power steering, in contrast to the hydraulic one, takes into account a number of factors, after which the electronics "decides" how and when the power steering engine should act. Moreover, the data depends not only on the readings of the three sensors, but also on the vehicle speed.
Electric power steering "Lada Kalina": price
To date, such a device can be purchased for 12-13 thousand rubles. At the same time, a special electric power steering circuit is attached to each mechanism. "Kalina" and spare parts for it always cost several times cheaper than imported analogs, so you shouldn't be surprised that an electric booster for Toyota will cost several times more.
Today, all the owners of Lada Kalina are interested in the question: why does the electric power steering on Kalina not work? After all, this car began to be produced back in November 2004, with electric power steering as standard. The tenth anniversary has passed, but according to the reviews of motorists, this problem still exists.
The electric amplifier consists of an electric motor, a force transmission mechanism and an electronic control system. The control, the operation of the electric booster, is carried out by an electronic unit with three special sensors, which must quickly determine the speed of the car, engine speed and the required effort to turn the front wheels.
During the start of the engine, the electric power steering (EUR) does not work. It turns on only from the moment of reaching 400 rpm crankshaft and stops working when the vehicle accelerates over 60 km. in hour.
Malfunction symptoms
Why the electric power steering does not work on Kalina is impossible to figure out right away. Nevertheless, in most cases of malfunctions (EUR), a lamp representing a steering wheel with an exclamation mark should light up on the dashboard. After that, the specialists of the VAZ car plant recommend moving at low speed to the car service.
Why low speed? Because the first years of production (EUR) by the Makhachkala plant, it had the peculiarity of turning the drive wheels of the car as far as possible to the left or right and fixing itself in this position.
There is no need to talk about the consequences... But even if the emergency light on the dashboard does not light up, the steering wheel may start to crack and tremble, or you will feel that the (EUR) sometimes turns off and on on its own, for no apparent reason at all.
The electric motor and the mechanical part (EUR) rarely cause complaints, but the electrical and electronics require a detailed study of the breakdowns.
The instruction is very detailed, all actions by the master during the work are commented and shown from convenient angles. The work is done in steps, so that you can repeat everything in your garage, without assistance. Repair is not the easiest, you have to disassemble and assemble a lot, but it's worth it, doing everything yourself, you can save a couple of thousand that you would give in an auto service.
Video replacement of the electric power steering (EUR) in Lada Kalina:
One of the novelties of the Russian car industry - Lada Kalina - became the first domestic car equipped with EMURU - an electromechanical power steering. How does the Kalina electric power steering work? A separate large article will be devoted to the answer to this question. We only note that with an increase in the speed that the car is gaining, the compensating moment of the EUR gradually decreases, and when it reaches 60 km / h, it turns off automatically.
At first, this detail was not completely "finalized" and had one dangerous property - it could switch off while the car was moving, regardless of its speed. It should be noted that today all these problems are in the past. We add that the electric amplifier can be completely turned off by pulling out one of its fuses. True, the steering in this case will become even "heavier" than on the "ten" or "fourteenth".
The EMURU device operates from the on-board electrical network of the car with a voltage of 10.8 to 15V.
The arrangement of contacts on the pads
Block X1:
1. "Plus" from the battery (12V);
2. "Minus" from the battery.
Block X2:
1. Ignition switch ("plus" from the terminal);
2. Signal input (tachometer);
3. Signal input (speed sensor);
4. Output (status indicator EMURU);
5. K-line output (diagnostic block);
6. L-line output (free);
7. General (mass);
8. Technological conclusion (free).
Block X3: motor phases:
A. (1 and 2) - phase A;
B. (1 and 2) - B;
C. (1 & 2) - C.
Block X4: torque sensor EUR "Kalina":
1. Common wire 1;
2. General 2;
3. Power contact;
4. Exit 1;
5. Exit 2;
6. Frequency signal input contact.
Block X5: rotor position sensor:
1. General;
2. Phase A output;
3. Phase B output;
4. Phase C output;
5. Power supply (+ 5V).
The electromechanical power steering installed on the Kalina can operate in the following modes:
Self-test
Compensation
Renouncement
Readiness
Error codes EMURU "Lada Kalina"
So, we have studied the general scheme of the electric power steering "Lada Kalina", now we will consider possible digital error codes and briefly describe their meaning. Note that the equipment can be diagnosed using a DST-2M scanner with an installed VAZ-IZH cartridge or MT-10 software.
C1000 - no error was found.
С1011 - no signal (engine speed circuit).
С1012 - no signal (speed sensor circuit).
С1013 - the voltage in the on-board network has dropped.
С1014 - the voltage at the ignition lock has dropped.
Torque sensor:
С1021 - voltage (main conclusion).
С1022 - voltage (test output).
C1023 - Invalid pin signal.
С1024 - no signal.
Steering shaft position sensor:
C1031 - circuit malfunction (main signal).
C1032 - circuit malfunction (control signal).
С1033 - no power supply.
Motor rotor position sensor:
C1041 - phase A circuit - malfunction.
C1042 - phase B circuit - malfunction.
C1043 - phase C circuit - malfunction.
C1044 is an invalid sequence.
С1045 - no power supply.
Power circuits:
С1050 - short to ground.
Motor overcurrent:
С1051 - phase winding A.
С1052 - B.
С1053 - C.
Breakage of phase windings:
С1054 - winding breakage.
C1055 - winding A.
С1056 - B.
С1057 - C.
Closing the phase windings:
С1058 - short circuit of the windings.
С1059 - phase A winding.
С1060 - B.
С1061 - C.
С1070 - unidentified.
ECU - electronic control unit:
С1071 - RAM error.
С1072 - ROM error.
С1073 - EEPROM error.
С1074 - block relay.
С1075 - the heatsink temperature is exceeded.
С1076 - ECU supply voltage.
С1077 - voltage across power capacitors.
С1078 - capacitor charging time.
С1079 - excess current of one of the windings.
С1080 - breakdown of the power transistor.
Currently, DST-2M scanners are no longer produced, their place was taken by more modern and advanced devices of the DST-12 model. With this equipment, you can diagnose not only the faults of the electric power steering "Lada Kalina". The DST-12 scanner is universal; it is used in servicing many cars, both those produced by AvtoVAZ and models of other manufacturers.
Diagnostics of EMURU without scanner
In the absence of a scanning device, the electric power steering fault codes can be read using the "paper clip" method. To do this, you need to do the following:
1. Turn off the ignition;
2. Close contacts No. 6 and 7 at the 8-pin connector of the control unit (control unit), which is located next to the power connector.
3. Switch on the ignition. You will be able to “read” the codes by the flashing diagnostic lamp.
Which contacts need to be closed? Look at the connector of the control unit from the side of the wires (recall, it is 8-pin, black). We count as the first contact the one at the top right and count from right to left:
1. Ignition lock (+ 12V) - blue.
2. Tachometer - red-brown.
3. Vehicle speed - gray.
4. Control lamp EMURU - white-pink.
5. K-line - black and yellow.
6. L-line - empty contact.
7. Mass - brown.
8. Empty contact.
If you are planning an independent repair of the Lada Kalina electric power steering, you need to remember, or better write down somewhere, the following data:
Light code parameters (temporary):
1. Initial pause - duration 2 sec;
2. Long signal - 2 sec;
3. Short signal - 0.5 sec;
4. Pause between signals - 0.5 sec;
5. Pause between codes - 2 sec.
Decoding of the light code of malfunctions:
1. "11" - the system is operational;
2. "12" - there is no engine speed signal;
3. "13" - torque sensor;
4. "14" - EMUR engine;
5. "15" - sensor PRV (position of the steering shaft);
6. "16" - PRD sensor (engine rotor position);
7. "17" - on-board network;
8. "18" - control unit;
9. "19" - vehicle speed sensor.
That's all the basic information you need to know on this matter. We hope that you understand - if the electric power steering "Lada Kalina" does not work - it is not necessary to panic and run to the auto repair shop, even a non-professional is quite capable of repairing the device. We are confident that this information will be of great help to you in the operation and maintenance of your vehicle.
The car of our time is radically different from the cars of the last century. This applies to all aspects. And one of the main features of the new car was the ease of rotation of the steering wheel. Now, even while in a stationary car, the driver can turn the steering wheel with two fingers. How is this effect achieved? This is the work of the electric power steering (EUR). But sometimes it fails.
Electric power steering
This device makes more powerful the effort that is transmitted to the steering system. Simply put, the steering wheel can be turned with two fingers. Previously, hydraulic amplifiers (GUR) were installed on VAZ models, but starting with the Lada "Kalina" they were abandoned.
The EUR was developed.
Power steering is preferable in terms of power transmission power, however, it has many disadvantages:
- Power take-off from the engine.
- Constant monitoring of the level in the tank is required.
- Checking oil lines.
The electric amplifier is devoid of all these disadvantages. And it is even easier to repair than power steering. But he also has enough of his faults.
EUR device
The main components of an electric amplifier:
- Mechanical part.
- Electrical component.
- Electronic control unit (ECU) with peripherals.
The mechanical part includes the actual steering parts, connecting parts and mounting hardware. That is, the input and output shafts, bracket, nuts, bolts, studs, and springs. Well, also an adjusting lever to change the angle of the steering wheel.
Electric, actually the amplifier motor itself. The most vulnerable is the electronic component. ECU and connectors with sensors.
Methods for determining the malfunction of the EUR
Of course, the first sign of a breakdown in the system is the activation of the ECU warning light on the instrument panel. Typically on a standard factory model "Priora", this is a steering wheel-shaped icon with an exclamation mark. When the ignition is turned on, it lights up for a few seconds, and then, if the computer decides that everything is in order, the light goes out. And accordingly, when a breakdown of the Priora electric amplifier is detected, it lights up and remains on.
Important! It should be remembered that the electric amplifier "Priora" is connected with its computer to the on-board ECU of the VAZ 2170 "Priora", and therefore the most correct thing is to do computer diagnostics. Individual diagnostic scanners are now being sold, which are available to any Priora owner, not only for the price, it is within 1250 rubles, but also in terms of ease of use.
So, carry out computer diagnostics, contact the ECU, get error codes with or without decoding. Even if the scanner only gives out codes, it's okay. You can just know that the faults associated with the EUR "Priora" begin with the symbol "C". For example, C1013, means that there is a low voltage in the network, and this is not enough for an electric amplifier.
Well, there may be several options. The most common case is the weakening, or burning of one of the two power wires going to the EUR. These are red and black wires of large cross-section that go into a separate connector on the device. They are fairly easy to check. And also it can be a large fuse for the device, everything is clear here. Well, the third reason is a shortage in the car's network, for example, a weak or faulty battery or generator. With such a malfunction, see a specialist, and nothing else. To an auto electrician.
"People's" way of checking a malfunction, or "control"
Well, if the indicator does not light up, and there are doubts about the serviceability or malfunctions of the Priora EUR, or after the repair it is necessary to make a “control”, proceed as follows: you need to turn the steering wheel without turning on the ignition. Remember the effort. And repeat the operation by starting the motor. If there are no changes, something has happened to the Priora ESD!
What kind of malfunctions exist in the Priora electric amplifier
And again the same list, mechanics, electrical, electronics. Well, everything is clear with mechanics, this is a failure of shafts, connections and fittings. With this malfunction, the wheels simply will not respond to the steering wheel turn. And this malfunction is the easiest to eliminate. But the rest of the faults are much more complicated. If the malfunctions are related to the failure of the servo motor itself, amplifier, "Priora" repair is not worth even thinking. It is easier to buy a new EUR in the store and replace it yourself. Or take it to the service, and try to repair it there. If the connection with the Priora ECU is lost, then this is most likely the second connector, with a loop of wires, the same is the case if a signal for the unit is not received, from external sensors - the crankshaft and camshaft. Yes, yes, they are also important for the operation of the device. In these cases, you can remove and repair, or replace the inexpensive wire harness.
Remained the "brain" of the electric amplifier, and the internal position sensors of the unit shafts. Tinkering with sensors is not an option, only a repair service. But the computer itself, if it malfunctions, you can buy and replace yourself.
Removal and installation
This is not as difficult a procedure as it might seem. And it even requires very little tool:
- Ring key for 8.
- A head with a knob, or a socket wrench for 13.
- Curly (cross) screwdriver.
And nothing more than the ability to use them. This is provided that the steering wheel itself has already been removed, which is another story.
Attention! Before starting the process, first of all disconnect the battery! You can simply remove one terminal.
Now let's go. Remove the plastic linings from the steering column by unscrewing 2 self-tapping screws and unfastening 2 clips. With a screwdriver, unscrew the bolts, in the amount of four pieces, and separate the lower part of the lining. Now interfere with the lock, and the "helicopter" - switches for turns and wipers. First of all, pressing the antennae on the connectors, disconnect all the wires. Then, with a key 8, loosen the clamp that attaches these devices, after which they will freely come off the shaft casing.
Disconnect the two connectors from the EUR ECU. Remove the plastic cover from the special pin.
Do not unscrew the lower nuts at all, but turn them a few turns with a wrench No. 13. But pull the pinch bolt of the intermediate shaft hinges completely, unscrewing its nut by 13. Well. Having unscrewed all fastening nuts, you can pull out the faulty EUR "Priora". Use a 13 key to release the lower shaft of the device from the splined joint. Well that's all. You can try to fix the malfunctions described above yourself, take it to a workshop, or just put a new unit on your "Prior", acting in the reverse order.
Useful video on the general repair of the Priora electric power steering.
