For the first six to seven years, the body of the Chevrolet Niva resists corrosion well, but then red dots gradually begin to appear at all joints and corners of the car. The most affected are the gas cap, hood, fender and door edges. Deep chips on the paint rust quickly enough, of course we are not talking about any galvanizing.
The paintwork is average in quality, chips and scratches do not appear as soon as on other cars. This, of course, is additionally influenced by more than 20 cm ground clearance and a plastic body kit. Quite often, however, paint can begin to swell on its own, especially on the arches and bonnet. Often the lining between the tailgate and the rear bumper will peel off.
How to deal with rust on the doorstep.
A heavy spare wheel sooner or later makes the tailgate sag and it starts to close badly. The bumper mountings weaken over time and fairly noticeable gaps form between them and the body. Often there is a backlash at the driver's door and door handles. The glasses, with frequent lowering, gradually become scratched and eventually warp and seize.
The weak point of the lower part of the car is the side members. They rust and often deform when jacked up. The engine protection can rub against the curve of the spar while driving, the squeak is especially audible during turns. In aged cars, fuel pipes in the area of \u200b\u200bthe right wheel often rot.
The trunk is quite modest, only 320 liters, folding the seats allows you to increase its volume to 650 liters, but for the transportation of long vehicles, the depth of the resulting opening will be small. The upholstery is very practical and easy to clean, but with additional niches it's just a disaster, there really is nowhere to put the driver's belongings. Some configurations include a proprietary shovel, which hangs on the fifth door on the other side of the spare wheel.
The Niva Chevrolet salon is a composite hodgepodge of VAZ models of the late 90s, most of all parts are from model 2115. The plastic is hard, echoing, but wear-resistant. Only the new steering wheel, which appeared in 2009, will climb. Drivers complain about a small number of containers for small items and a terrible rattling of the glove compartment lid.
Noise isolation is very weak. Both the engine and tires are clearly audible, and at high speed the wind whistling from the side mirrors is added to them. At certain engine speeds, between about 2500 and 3000, the gearshift lever begins to vibrate. And in the range from 80 to 100 km / h the razdatka howls insanely, usually the owners try to go either faster or slower.
A clogged drain behind the expansion tank can cause water to enter the passenger compartment. The heater radiator also often leaks, and it does so directly on the front passenger's feet. Replacing it with a model equipped with an air conditioner will require a complete disassembly of the panel. The cables for controlling the valves of the ventilation and heating system stretch and break. The stove makes a lot of noise, but heats up very well.
Large drivers have loose seats. The front panel can deform under the influence of direct sunlight, especially the glove compartment lid (it just stops closing). Cold air can blow through the torn anthers of the gearbox levers and the transfer case, and water can seep through the steering shaft seal and antenna mounts.
In 2009, the car was seriously modernized. The Italian design studio Bertone was in charge of the update, so the restyling affected the exterior of the car and the interior decoration. The radiator grille has changed, new lensed headlights have appeared, and the lights have acquired a different pattern, the bumpers have changed, and the rear one has received a convenient rubber pad, which facilitates the loading of oversized cargo.
The cabin now has a different steering wheel with three spokes and a more comfortable gearshift knob, an open box and two cupholders between the seats, different seats and better headlining. Finally, we made normal shades of lighting and an eyeglass case. The door seals are thicker, and optional roof rails are available, as well as body-colored door handles and mirrors. Revised sound insulation and wheel pattern.
Chevy Niva is one of the few cars on the Russian market that does not have an airbag in the basic version. However, starting with the GL equipment, both the driver and the front passenger have it, they also have belt pretensioners. Of the active safety systems, there is only an ABS.
The car has been crash tested twice, both times in 2011. Representatives of the GM-Avtovaz company smashed the export version in the maximum configuration and it coped well, by 12.5 points out of 16 possible. But the journalists of AutoReview tested the basic model for our market and the result was predictably terrible - only 1.6 points out of 16.
Failure to test AutoReview
For electrics under the hood, the main problems are mainly associated with the generator, more precisely with the wiring around it. First, it burns, then the contacts and finally the diode bridge. In 2014, the site was modernized. Another weak point is the starter. It has a small resource, since it is located in the immediate vicinity of the exhaust manifold and operates in an unfavorable temperature regime. When parked for a long time, the battery is often discharged.
In the cabin, the fuel level gauge is usually the first to pass, then the coolant temperature, then the wiper and corner relay. But all this most often happens closer to the one hundred thousandth run. Heated mirrors, seats and rear windows, as well as power windows, often fail. Moreover, they do it in a spontaneous way, and may stop working on a new machine.
The native keychain for controlling the central lock is extremely short-lived. When the dimensions are turned on, the ignition sometimes works, despite the fact that the key is not even inserted into the lock. The headlights are pretty good, especially after restyling, however, due to poor contacts, lamp holders sometimes burn and the reflector plastic melts.
The suspension is energy-intensive, but on regular asphalt this leads to excessive body swing, which is most felt in corners. It is especially uncomfortable for rear passengers, and even throws them on speed bumps. The car fully opens up on rough terrain, long suspension travel and permanent all-wheel drive allow you to drive where modern crossovers with complex electronic filling fail.
Up to about 50,000 km of run, nothing usually knocks or rattles, but then intervention is usually required. The first to give up are the ball joints in front and the silent blocks of the jet rods in the back. The rubber-metal hinges of the upper right arm burn out due to the constant thermal effect of the exhaust system. Many parts, including shock absorbers, may need to be replaced by 100,000 km.
A separate conversation will be about wheel bearings. They require adjustment and tightening approximately every 30 thousand kilometers, then their resource will be about 80 thousand. Regular outings with mud and water ramps cut the service life of wheel bearings, like brake drums, by about half.
The pedals are quite far apart and can be driven with heavy boots. Thanks to the effective vacuum booster, the car brakes well, the pedal is soft throughout the travel. Front brake pads run about 30-40 thousand, discs 60-70 thousand km. The rear drums can easily go 120 thousand kilometers, although the pads in them will have to be changed twice during this time. It is better to replace brake hoses preventively at 100,000 km, they can crack at the most unexpected moment.
Until the General Motors concern brought budget Chevrolet models out of our market, they were bought very well. Not a bad price, a spacious interior for its class, time-tested Opelev engines, besides, you could choose one of three body types - hatchback, sedan and station wagon. Yes, and still used Chevrolet Cruze are in demand largely due to the body's resistance to corrosion. Galvanized body at Cruz, or not, we find out today together.
Video about the assembly of the Chevrolet Cruze at the factory:
This cleavage has been here for a long time, but the mushrooms have not appeared. The body is well galvanized.
According to most of the data from the manufacturer and various enterprises at which the Chevrolet Cruze was produced, the body is still partially galvanized.
The paint has peeled off on the other wing, there are no mushrooms.
Nevertheless, there are specimens that have not seen zinc in the eye and, as a rule, this cars assembled in St. Petersburg ... Regardless of the presence of zinc on the surface, the paint layer on all Chevrolet Cruzes is quite thin and weak. Therefore, the most commonplace household injury is enough, as a chip forms on the paintwork, and thin metal contributes to the formation of small dents.
On years
And yet there is some official information about the galvanized Chevrolet Cruze of different model years.
- For example, cars produced in 2001-2002 years had only partial galvanization. This means that only the most corrosive elements of the body and empennage were treated. The zinc coating layer did not exceed 9 μm, but it was double-sided.
- Beginning since 2003 all Chevrolet Cruzes began to be galvanized using the full processing technology with a zinc layer up to 15 microns thick.
- And already since 2009 restyled Cruises had some aluminum elements in the body, while the thickness of the zinc layer, the galvanizing method did not change. Consequently, almost all Chevrolet Cruze cars must have at least a share of galvanized body elements.
The bonnet is chipped and rusty. This is a St. Petersburg Cruise assembly.
Types and technologies
Galvanization can be complete, partial, or affect only nodal connections.
This hood is galvanized.
With full galvanizing, all body elements are processed, even hidden and hard-to-reach surfaces. With partial processing, only those elements are galvanized that most often suffer from corrosion - the bottom, cavities and surfaces of the thresholds, the lower outer parts of the doors, wings. When galvanizing nodal joints, only welding places, places of fixation of empennage elements and body structure are processed.
Galvanizing the car.
Galvanizing technology can represent several types of work:
- Hot dipped galvanized ... This is the most effective and expensive type of anti-corrosion treatment. Only such cars as Porsche, Volvo, and expensive Ford models can afford it. Thermal zinc treatment allows to give a guarantee for the body from 10 to 30 years, depending on the manufacturer, and increases the resistance of metal to corrosion by 4-5 times. A body coated with zinc using this method can regenerate small damaged areas and has excellent mechanical resistance.
- Galvanized ... It is cheaper and this is the processing method used by most car manufacturers of the medium and some of the budget segment. This method does not guarantee full-scale protection of the body against corrosion and involves a set of measures for additional protection. It is by this method that most Chevrolet Cruze bodies are galvanized. General Motors provides a 6-year corrosion protection guarantee.
- Cold galvanized ... The most inexpensive, affordable and ineffective method of protection. It consists in applying a cataphoresis primer containing zinc to clean metal. By and large, this is an ordinary soil with all the ensuing consequences and this method is used either by manufacturers of very inexpensive cars or artisans.
conclusions
Most Cruises are galvanized during assembly!
Based on the operating experience of the Chevrolet Cruze of different years of production, we can say that the bodies are completely galvanized, except for the roof, by galvanizing with a layer of 10-15 microns.
It is important to know that the zinc layer can be destroyed at the site of damage at a rate of 1 to 5 microns at 12 months and the higher the ambient temperature, the faster the destruction is. Protect the bodies from damage and cover the zinc with paintwork in time, good roads to all!
Perhaps, none of the team of like-minded people in Detroit, in 1911, had no idea that under the brand of their "brainchild", in distant Russia, Chevrolet Niva cars, which have rightfully earned an excellent reputation, would be produced, the body type of which fits so perfectly into our native natural landscapes.
Affordability, durability and high performance are the hallmarks of this car brand. Otherwise, how would Chevrolet become the fourth largest automobile brand, on the basis of which, by the way, in Korea (Daewoo) there are several assembly lines with various models from Chevrolet.
ATTENTION! Found a completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also did not believe until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline!
Niva chevrolet body
The off-road body of the Niva Chevrolet confirms its purpose with a permanent all-wheel drive transmission of a mechanical type, the presence of a reduction gear in it and a forced differential lock.
Of course, these transmission characteristics are of decisive importance in overcoming various obstacles, but in this moment we will not be completely frank, unless we separately note the geometric cross-country ability, which the Chevrolet Niva body fully possesses:
- shortened overhangs allowing to overcome the exits and exits with the ascent angles of 35 ... 37 degrees;
- a high two hundred millimeter ground clearance in a coupe with a 24-degree ramp angle allows you to take the steepest off-road immediately.
In general, the body of the Chevrolet Niva very successfully complements the capabilities of the mechanical all-wheel drive and provides the driver with ample opportunities for fast and reliable off-road driving.
The body of the Chevrolet Niva is made of load-bearing, welded, all-metal with five doors.
The body iron of the Chevrolet Niva (its constituent elements) are interconnected by means of contact, spot welding, and in hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places by semi-automatic welding (in an inert gas), which significantly increased the body stiffness coefficient.
An important role in the high performance of this parameter was played by the fact that the rear door glass with side skylights, as well as the windshield, are glued into the body opening, which also makes them part of the power circuit.
Welding seams and joints of element panels are sealed with mastic.
The side doors have sliding glass and are attached to the front hinges. The rear door is hinged, with hinges on the left.
Safety glasses, bent:
- wind - 3-layer, polished;
- door glass - tempered, polished (rear window with heating element).
In addition to the choice in the vehicle configuration, the manufacturer offers a choice of Chevrolet Niva, the body colors of which also differ in a variety of shades:
Strengthening the body
Despite the high preparation of the car, in our operating conditions it still does not hurt to increase the rigidity of the Chevrolet Niva body with our own hands.
This does not mean that the manufacturer uses a deliberately weak and unfinished body iron for the Chevrolet Niva, it is just that this unit can withstand the most severe loads, which we will try to reduce by using various struts and amplifiers.
To do this, you do not need to invent anything and reinvent the wheel, everything is already on sale. I will present you with several of the many options proposed:
Body reinforcements
- when driving in a straight line on roads with poor coverage and at high speeds, it significantly increases the stability of the vehicle;
- improves steering response in corners, which allows them to pass at higher speeds;
- reduces the angles of the steering wheel when cornering with the same radii, which reduces the complexity of driving a car;
- more predictable car behavior;
- with better stability and controllability, the suspension travels smoothly.
Stretch marks
- reduces car roll;
- the speed of return of the steering wheel is increased;
- excellent directional stability at cruising speed (100 ... 110 km / h);
- the recoil to the steering wheel decreases when driving at low speeds (10 ... 20 km / h) on bumpy roads;
Stabilizer
By connecting the opposite wheels with a torsion bar, the stabilizer redistributes the loads that arise when the vehicle rolls sideways. It raises the body on the tilted side and lowers it on the high side, that is, the following happens: 
- alignment in sharp turns of the body relative to the roadway;
- decrease in roll;
- improved tire grip when cornering.
Stretcher
- protection of the power unit from impacts from below;
- increasing the rigidity of the attachment points of the suspension and body;
- improved handling (anti-bite effect, stabilization) of the suspension kinematics;
- increase in car base (15 millimeters) and castor angle (1.5 degrees).
Rear A-arm
This universal element, due to the welded stabilizer of a large diameter, simultaneously increases both the lateral and longitudinal stiffness of the rear suspension, which practically negates the side roll of the car during dynamic entry into a corner.
Powertrain mounts
- the amplitude of the engine is reduced, which affects the clarity of the gears;
- elimination of the influence of the amplitude oscillation of the center of gravity of the internal combustion engine on controllability due to the dynamic optimization of its suspension.
It is especially important to strengthen the body when buying a used car, because who knows what a car has seen in its lifetime, since this car has a lot of opportunities to see "something much".
But my advice to you is, before you strengthen the body of the Chevrolet Niva, you need to check the control points of the Chevrolet Niva body with your own hands.
As you can see, with the help of the components offered to your attention, reinforcing the body iron on the Chevrolet Nivun is nothing complicated. But the question is, why?
If you use the car only for summer trips and a maximum of family trips to nature, then of course not why. But if your destiny is open spaces of off-road and deep taiga, then only with the use of the above-described devices will you unlock the full potential of the car.
Sergey Mishin
I don't quite understand what the question is. Personally, I have not seen any "horror stories". I can’t agree that this is all about “new cars” in the plural. In my opinion, this is a story about an isolated case. And it's not a fact that this is a factory marriage. Perhaps this story unambiguously speaks only of the dealer's incompetence. It is not clear why it was necessary to change the transfer case.
There are clicks in the front axle gearbox and in one of the CV joints of the propeller shaft. I can assume that the main "culprit" of transmission knocks is precisely the front axle gearbox, and the backlash in its hypoid engagement could provoke intensive wear of the CV joint.
The play in the hypoid engagement could have been incorrectly adjusted during assembly (factory defect), which is very unlikely. By the way, this engagement can be adjusted if desired. However, I do not exclude the possibility that the backlash appeared as a result of improper operation of the car - as a result of driving on hard roads with the center lock turned on, which provides a rigid connection between the driving axles.
The fact is that in turns and even when driving in a straight line on an uneven road, all four wheels of a car travel different paths. And if the wheels do not have the ability to slip (as, for example, on snow or ice), then intensive wear of the transmission elements occurs. First of all, parts of hypoid engagement in interwheel gearboxes, especially in the front.
In this case, I would analyze the oil in the front gear and examine the hypoid gears. If there are metal shavings in the oil, and there are traces of wear on the gears, it means that the backlash appeared during operation due to incorrect driving modes.
Do a little experiment. Make a couple of circles on dry asphalt with a minimum radius (the center block must be turned off). Now, leaving the front wheels turned out, turn off the engine, engage neutral in the gearbox and roll the car by hand on the knurled circle. Feel like it can be done quite easily. Now turn on center-to-center locking and try the same. Make sure you can't drive the car halfway. This will not allow power to circulate in the transmission; it will simply stop the vehicle. It will stop like a gear.
If you resort to using the engine, you will hear the whistle of tires slipping on the asphalt, or the grinding of hypoid pairs (front and rear axles) in the transmission. This mode causes intensive wear of the gears of this very hypoid engagement. So, the more you use the included center lock on asphalt, especially dry, the more intensively you destroy the car.
And here is an example of a rather rapid wear of other transmission parts during operation, typical for all-wheel drive vehicles with a rigidly connected front axle (UAZ and the like). When operating on asphalt in rear-wheel drive mode, many separate the front wheels from the axle shafts using wheel couplings. This makes it possible to exclude the rotation of the axle shafts, front gearbox and propeller shaft from the wheels of a rolling car and thus slightly reduce fuel consumption. However, the front axle on road bumps due to the suspension goes up and down, which forces the front propeller shaft to change its length - this is helped by the splined connection. But since the front universal joint and the axle gearbox do not rotate, the wear of the splines does not occur evenly, but only in one (vertical) plane, and quite intensively, especially if there is not enough lubrication in this connection. Turning on at some point the front axle and connecting the axle shafts with the wheels, you will feel knocks in the unevenly worn splined joint of the front propeller shaft. And the illiterate driver is to blame for the appearance of these knocks.
So, paved roads (asphalt, concrete, etc.) wear out the transmission of an all-wheel drive vehicle quite intensively if it is used incorrectly.
Hello. There are several questions about the Chevrolet Niva. 1. Did the Chevrolet Niva get the upgraded unregulated hubs from the Lada 4X4? 2. Is the body galvanized and how is it doing with its corrosion resistance? 3. Is it as easy to drain gas from the tank as on the classic? 4. In a competing publication I read that vibrations are now defeated in Shniva and is not much noisier than in a regular passenger car, is that so? 5. Everywhere and everywhere they say about a weak engine, meanwhile I see that many owners use a car with a trailer, maybe it's not so sad? 6. Can it be used as a car for every day and all occasions? 7. What is the real life of this car? Thank you in advance. (Alexei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Alexey!
I believe that a lot of questions have been asked in anticipation of the decision to buy this car. We asked GM-AVTOVAZ quality director to answer some of them Evgeniya Berezina... Here's what he said:
- 1. At the moment, the Chevrolet Niva car is not provided for the installation of an unregulated hub unit. Lada 4x4 is the same, but work on this topic continues.
- 2. Yes, the body is galvanized, most of the panels are galvanized. Currently, two types of galvanized steel are used: the so-called double-sided hot-rolled zinc and one-sided electro-zinc. Therefore, the corrosion resistance of the body is quite high.
On my own behalf, I will add that on the body of our car for five years of operation there are no hints of corrosion. For other questions, we can say the following:
- 5. The engine, of course, is rather weak. However, you can ride. This is proved by more than 600 thousand manufactured and sold Chevrolet Niva cars over the entire period of its existence. If you read our reports on the operation of this and previous machines, you will be surprised. We are already operating the second Chevrolet Niva, and both were dragging (the latter still carries) a trailer for about half of its run. And not just a trailer, but loaded with wheels (300–400 kg) when transported to a tire fitting and a tire testing ground, and vice versa, or a barrel with 500 liters of water. And the use of a low gear in the transfer case allows you to start or crawl very slowly with a heavy trailer.
- 6. Why not? Do you really think that all Chevrolet Nivas in service are the second or third in the family?
- 7. We were unable to determine the "real" resource of the Chevrolet Niva. The first one served us about 200 thousand kilometers and was sold. As far as we know, the person who bought it drove a lot on it and subsequently sold it.
3. Much more difficult, since the tank has a long neck with bends. The issue of access to the tank can be completely closed by purchasing a lockable plug.
4. I agree with the opinion of a "competing publication", vibrations and noises in the cabin are not annoying.
Some of your questions (3, 4, 5 and 6) you can easily answer yourself, making a test drive, which today is easily organized by any dealer. I suppose you can even negotiate and try to drain the gas from the tank.
Hello! Dear editors. On my Chevrolet Niva, (2017 onwards), the hydraulic chain tensioner made a noise at 32,000 km. A familiar mechanic at the service station at the office. the dealer advised me to replace it with a mechanical one. Moreover, the patented, so-called "Isay" or "Pilot", produced by "Rusmash". Another familiar car mechanic says to install a new hydraulic tensioner. I'm at a loss. What do you recommend ?. And what is your experience on this problem. Thank you (Boris).
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Boris, good afternoon!
Let's start by clarifying the diagnosis. In fact, it is not the hydraulic tensioner that makes noise, but the poorly tensioned timing chain. To begin with, you need to figure out whether the tensioner performs its functions poorly, or the chain itself is very stretched. If an extended chain is to blame, it is better to replace it together with a set of all drive gears. However, according to our observations (including for other Sheviks in the foreseeable environment), the chain runs 90-100 thousand kilometers, although this figure is envy both on the driving style and operating conditions of the car, and on the quality of the product. The hydraulic tensioner must also regularly serve within the same mileage. If the problem is in it, this node will have to be changed.
We might be lucky, but the tensioner works fine on our machine. We are not aware of the massive failure of hydraulic tensioners. Therefore, we believe that in normal driving modes, the standard hydraulic tensioner is quite efficient and durable.
Another thing is that the use of cars of the domestic auto industry and their components sometimes resembles a game of roulette. Someone in this "game" is lucky, but someone is not ... Therefore, the car mechanics advising you are not unanimous in their recommendations.
The transition to a mechanical chain tensioner, in our opinion, is justified if the car is used on very rough terrain, with extreme heels, on steep ascents and descents, when there is a high probability of short-term oil starvation.
However, the transition to "mechanics" is unlikely to save you from "playing roulette".
Good day. 2013 Chevrolet Niva. On the bumps in front, a strong clang is heard (knocking metal on metal). I read in the forums: sinned on the front calipers. I checked - not them. It seems that the axle shafts are knocking. When the car rolls in neutral, the clank on the bumps is strong, when I turn on the speed almost passes. What is it? How to cure? (Oleg)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Oleg!
We have not encountered a similar problem. And to determine the defect in absentia is like treating teeth on the Internet. Only a visit to a real doctor will help to solve the problem. Therefore, we strongly advise you to contact your dealer or other sensible master. If there are no such in the district, you will have to climb under the car and figure it out yourself. Judging by the description of the problem, a backlash appeared in some elements of the transmission. First of all, pay attention to the condition of the front propeller shaft and the clearance between the transfer case and the gearbox. Check all the bushings on the front suspension arms, front shock absorbers and stabilizer bar.
Hello! I have a 2011 Chevy Niva. Suddenly there was vibration and hum in the cabin, plus a sound similar to clicks outside when starting off and driving above 40-50 km / h. Thanks for the clarifications! (Sergei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Sergey!
We have already written more than once that an absentee diagnosis is a thankless task.
For real problems, it's best to go to real mechanics.
The symptoms described suggest that there is a problem in the gearbox-transfer case pair. The reasons for vibration, hum and clicks in the transmission can be different: the attachment of the transfer case to the body or the intermediate shaft connecting the transfer case to the gearbox has weakened. Another possible reason is the wear of the elements of the intermediate shaft itself.
At a minimum, you must carefully inspect the indicated elements from below - from the pit or by lifting the machine on a lift. Use your hands to juggle all components with the engine off (gear lever in neutral). Backlash, if any, will make itself felt.
These problems are treated by broaching the fasteners or replacing the intermediate shaft assembly.
The second possible direction is the front axle shafts, or rather their outer CV joints (joints of equal angular velocities), although these nodes rarely require attention.
Hello dear editors! My name is Boris. For the first year I have been operating a Chevrolet Niva (2017 release). Prior to this, Lada 4x4 5dv. On the "old Niva", the differential lock was engaged in extreme off-road conditions, if necessary, in one position. In the Niva-Chevrolet there is an increased and decreased blocking, "up" and "down". I cannot understand under what road conditions the blocking is increased, and under what conditions it is reduced? Can you explain please. (Boris)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Boris, hello!
I guess you were misled by video life hacks of not quite literate bloggers.
You should be well aware that the Lada 4x4 transfer case is controlled by two separate levers, or rather small levers. One selects a number of RK - high, for normal driving conditions, or low, which is used in conditions of increased resistance to movement. There is a neutral between them - a position where no torque is transmitted to the wheels. The second lever has two positions - the inter-axle lock is on or off. The transfer case of the Chevrolet Niva is the same in terms of functionality and filling as on the Lada 4x4. It differs only in that it is controlled by one lever instead of two. Its longitudinal switching (forward-backward) selects the row of the PK, and the transverse movement controls the blocking. If the lever is moved to the right - the blocking is off, if you pull it to the left - the blocking is on. On-off interlocking is permissible in any of the three longitudinal positions. So there are no increased or decreased locks here.
Hello! I heard about the "disease" of the hydraulic chain tensioner, specifically the extraneous sounds when starting the car after parking. Have you encountered this problem? If so, how was the issue resolved? (Anton)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
- Anton, good afternoon!
I suppose you went overboard with the term "disease", since the problem is not a mass problem.We have not encountered such a defect, although we observe a large number of similar cars in our environment. So this is most likely a special case.
We sometimes come across a short knock of one or two hydraulic pushers after a long stay. Most likely, the problems you describe with the hydraulic tensioner, as well as with the hydraulic pushers, are associated with insufficient pressure in the lubrication system after a long parking lot. This happens when the oil filter valve does not work well, and after a long parking of the car, oil flows from all highways into the sump. A clear sign of such a deviation is that the oil pressure control lamp goes out not with the first engine revolutions after starting, but after 1–2 seconds of its operation. Replace the oil filter.
The second presumptive reason is clogging of the hydraulic drive system, which has arisen due to the use of low-quality engine oil or its untimely replacement. Flush the engine lubrication system with washing oil, purge the tensioner hydraulic drive system.
The next possible reason is wear or damage to the tensioner itself. Replace the product or its worn parts.
As you know, Lada 4x4 front hubs began to be installed unregulated, which do not need to be adjusted every 5 thousand kilometers. When will they be introduced to the Chevrolet Niva? (Igor)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
- Igor, hello!
Your question does not fit into the experience of operating the vehicle.Try to address it to the manufacturer.
Is it necessary and in what time frame to change the fluid in the power steering? (Ilya)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Ilya!
The list of routine maintenance, calculated for the period of vehicle operation up to 120 thousand km, does not provide for fluid replacement in the hydraulic booster. The fluid level must be checked every fifteen thousand kilometers.
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Eugene, good afternoon!
When will the issue with the rubber door seal be resolved? It rubs the threshold and when dirt gets in, it abrades to rust. Already rusting. 2012 car, mileage 50 thousand. (Ivan)
Hello Ivan!
If we are talking about additional seals along the lower contour of the side doors, then our car has similar problems, but they are less pronounced and not critical.
There are scratches under the seals, but before the ground, 1 metal is visible only in the front corners of the doors, there is no rust. At the same time, our car is a year younger in age, but the mileage is twice as much, that is, it is used more intensively. According to our information, the manufacturer has resolved this issue.
Since the second half of 2015, GM-AVTOVAZ has been installing seals made of softer material on cars.
Hello! I own a Chevrolet Niva 2013 release. Mileage 27,000 km. The problem is that it is difficult to start below -10 degrees, especially at -20 (not always). Also, the revolutions slightly float immediately after starting the engine, even in warm weather for about a minute, then the revolutions level out. There are no problems when driving. I must say right away that the battery is new, it turns well, I tried three sets of candles, I stopped at NGK - it seems to be better than others, the coil and wires are also new. Can you please tell me what could be the problem? (Alexander)
Sergey Mishin, editor of Za Rulem magazine (department of automotive information):
Alexander, GM-AVTOVAZ specialists suggest that the most likely reason for such problems lies in the improper operation of the idle speed regulator. Try replacing it (located on the choke tube).
I draw your attention to the fact that repairing a car in absentia is a thankless task.
Therefore, this is a presumptive diagnosis, it is still better to check the car for diagnostics at a car service.
Hello! I have four Chevy Niva in my field of vision, and in two of them there are problems with the cooling system: cracking of the expansion tank (RB), ripping off pipes, endless replacement of RB caps. Obviously, this is not an accident, especially given the many similar topics on the Chevy Niva's profile sites. In my case, I keep the coolant level in the expansion tank not even at the lower indicated level, but practically at its very bottom. This somehow allows you to painlessly operate the car. Question: what could be the true reasons for the above and fairly massive problems with the Chevy Niva cooling system? (Nikolay)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Nikolay, we have referred your question to GM-AVTOVAZ JV. Quality Director Evgeny Berezin answers:
Expansion tank - (RB). Indeed, a few years ago there was a problem - periodic cracks in the RB. The reason is the unstable behavior of the material "balen" under cyclic loads (heating-cooling) and its premature "aging".
Since the beginning of 2013, this problem has been completely eliminated by replacing this material with a more reliable and stable hostalen. We recommend using an original hostalen product. The main difference between the new material and the previous one is sufficient rigidity and uniformity of the RB wall thickness. When inspecting the product upon purchase, pay attention to the corners; they should not be more transparent than the plane of the walls in the middle of the RB.
Cover RB: Mass defects of this component have never been noted due to the simplicity of its construction.
The most likely reason for the dysfunction of this product may be associated with a clogged outlet / intake valve, which is most likely caused by aging of the coolant and the formation of deposits and deposits in the cooling system, including on the inside of the RB plug. Deposits in the system interfere with the operation of the thermostat and coolant temperature sensors, which can provoke an increase in pressure in the cooling system and breakdown of the pipes.
Check the condition of the coolant. If it has not been replaced according to the regulations, it must be replaced, after flushing the system.
On a Chevrolet Niva car, the on-board computer shows, in addition to time, only the air temperature and the voltage of the on-board network. On cars such as Priora and Kalina, in addition to these functions, a number of others are available, in particular, instant and average fuel consumption, power reserve, which would be especially important for the Chevrolet Niva, which has an increased fuel appetite. Is it possible to modify the on-board computer of the Chevrolet Niva in a relatively simple way, for example, by replacing the steering column switch from Priora (Kalina), etc., in order to implement the missing functions? (Ivan)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
- Ivan, hello!
We forwarded your question to the car manufacturer - to the GM-AVTOVAZ JV.
Quality Director Evgeny Berezin's answer:
“The functions of the on-board computer are“ wired ”into the microprocessor of the instrument cluster, which is responsible for reading, processing and displaying the indicators you mentioned. And the data is taken from the engine control unit. Fuel consumption functions are not provided in the Chevrolet Niva on-board computer. Therefore, the use of paddle shifters from other models will not provide the expected result. "
In other words, if you buy an advanced remote control for a simple TV, your TV receiver will not acquire new functions.
Tell us, are there ways to eliminate the rattling of the Chevrolet Niva heat shields? What are the consequences of removing them? (Alexei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
- Alexey, hello!
On your question, we turned to the car manufacturer - GM-AVTOVAZ JV.
Quality director answers Evgeny Berezin:
Several types of heat shields are used on our car. Some of them are located in the engine compartment and provide thermal protection of the starter and the air receiver from the high temperature of the exhaust manifold. In addition, the starter shield protects the starter from dust and dirt in off-road conditions. The second group is located under the bottom of the body and serves to protect the anti-noise mastic from the high temperature of the exhaust pipe and catalyst. I believe that the question was asked on the screens of the first group, the one located in the engine compartment. On cars of the early years of production, the problem of "rattling" of the collector screen was relevant, but practically no comments were noted for all other comments. To eliminate this defect, a design change was made, namely, an additional attachment point was introduced. After that, we did not notice any problems. Therefore, it is possible to recommend to the reader (if the production date of his car is before October 2010) to install the product of the last state instead of the old one. I strongly advise against dismantling any of the heat shields! Lack of air manifold thermal protection will lead to strong heating of the collector itself. This will significantly heat the intake air to the engine and reduce engine power, especially in summer. Lack of starter thermal protection will lead to severe overheating of the starter. As a result, the insulation of the coils of its windings will melt, which will provoke a short circuit. In addition, the high temperature will very quickly "age" and dry out all the lubricant used in the starter, which will also inevitably lead to product failure. What comes first - short-circuiting the windings or drying out the lubricant - will depend on the state of the starter at the time of dismantling the thermal protection and operating conditions. Removing the bottom heat shields will lead to overheating of the anti-noise mastic on the bottom, it will drain from the bottom, subsequently corrosion will occur. There will be a possibility of car fire.
From my own experience I can add. If the screen rattles, it means that its attachment is loose or one of the attachment "ears" is broken. Recommendations - tighten the fastening nuts, rivet or weld the broken off "ear" (but this is not for long), or replace the screen with a new one.
Good day. At the moment, at least four major manufacturers produce unloaded axle shafts for Niva. Moreover, the price of axles from Volgaavtoprom is comparable to the standard ones. But there is no objective comparative information. Why not arrange a laboratory test of the axle shafts, at the same time compare the standard axle shafts from different manufacturers. (Sergei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Sergey!
I believe that for most readers of the magazine, the topic of comparing the semi-axles of the Chevrolet Niva and Lada 4x4 is not of interest. Especially considering that these parts have no problems with durability - for a long time of operation of several cars, we have not encountered breakdowns of semi-axles, and there is no stream of letters from readers on this topic. The bearings were falling apart - there was a case (now the problem has already been solved), but the axle shafts did not break and do not break. It is possible that they are not enough for a tough off-road on specially prepared vehicles with oversized wheels. But this is a very specific audience.
What winter tires would you recommend for the Chevy Niva? Operation in the countryside: drifts, drifts, ice, winter road, frosts down to -35C are not uncommon. Thorns want. Size 215 / 65r16 (Sergey Chistyakov)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Sergey, good afternoon!
Actually, this question is more about the tire theme, but not the operation of the Chevrolet Niva. Your happiness that I am doing tire testing. For your conditions, the Goodyear UltrGrip Ice Arctic is just perfect - it is the most "all-terrain" tire of all studs. SUV winter studded tire test results can be found at.
Although we ran that test on a Duster, the 215 / 65R16 tires will fit the Chevrolet Niva. If Goodyear can't afford it, check out the Cordiant Snow Cross, Nordman 5 SUV, and Nordman 7 SUV. Just do not use the cross-country ability without measure, remember that there is a limit to everything - the steeper the jeep, the further you go after the tractor.
Hello! I own a Chevrolet Niva release in December 2014, previously there was also a Chevrolet Niva 2008. With a mileage of 19 thousand, engine repair was required. the oil went into antifreeze. The problem turned out to be in the cylinder head sink (apparently, a factory defect), respectively, the cylinder head was welded and polished, the gasket was not punched. The warranty expired at that time. After the repair, they covered five thousand kilometers - the antifreeze is clean, and this problem has been eliminated. But, as it turned out, there was still a second problem with the engine - the consumption of engine oil is 0.5 liters per 1000 km of run (the oil burns out mainly during track runs). I thought that all the oil consumption that was before the cylinder head repair was due to the oil entering the antifreeze. At the Lada service station, they assured that the manufacturer allowed an oil consumption of 0.7 liters per 1000 km, you should not climb into the engine and drive calmly. By the way, the valve stem seals were replaced, and the problem is definitely not in them. The dynamics of the car and traction after the cylinder head repair are excellent, the compression in the cylinders is 12.5-14. Please share your experience on how best to act in this situation. (Evgeniy)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Eugene, good afternoon!
I advise you to check the functioning of the crankcase ventilation system - is the crankcase exhaust pipe pinched, is the oil separator clean?
Examine the candles for carbon deposits. If there is a lot of carbon deposits on them, it is better to open the engine and determine how the oil enters the combustion chamber. There are two options - oil scraper rings or ... oil scraper seals let it through.
If the exhaust is not gray and the spark plug electrodes are relatively clean, I suggest driving and at the same time keeping an eye on the oil level. In your case, I would keep it in the middle between the “minimum” and “maximum” marks, and add it only when it goes down to the minimum. There are instances of engines that do not like the maximum oil level.
When shifting gears, knocking is heard in the transmission while pressing / releasing the clutch. These knocks were originally. The dealer says this is a design feature of the car. Is it so? Shniva was purchased in November 2015. At the moment, the mileage is ~ 32 thousand km. (Valery)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Valery, good afternoon!
It is a thankless task to diagnose in absentia ...
Judging by the age of the car and the mileage of 32 thousand kilometers, there is hardly any serious defect, during this time a "good" knock would probably come out.
If the knocks are transmission clicks, which are almost inaudible on a cold transmission (when the oil is thicker), but they are more pronounced on a hot car, this is quite common for Lada 4x4 and Chevrolet Niva. This is usually how the process of "disassembly" (loosening) or "assembly" (tension) of the "chain" of engagement of all gears in the gearbox and transfer case is sounded.
Try to operate the clutch pedal more gently, these sounds should become quieter or almost disappear. But still, I recommend that you contact another specialist for an accurate diagnosis.
I’ll make a reservation right away that I personally don’t plan to dig any compromising evidence on you, but in general I don’t understand such vigilance. I don’t ask for personal information and so on. I simply ask how it was and how is the Chevy Niva of different years of release, and where does the probability of trolling have to do with it? Regarding the question of comparing silver and burgundy Shniv ... In the magazine, the purchase of a burgundy car was positioned incl. and how to compare the 2002 and 2003 model. I say this to explain the meaning of the question again. About the fifth door and the nozzle, I asked about the old, burgundy Shniva. Did she have such problems? I ask because later they installed their other designs, so how were the old versions in operation? Also, you did not answer what in the end was then with the left mirror, twisted with a huge bolt. When was it eventually replaced? (Sergei)
Maxim Sachkov, Head of the Department of Automotive Information of the magazine "Za Rulem":
- Good day, Sergey!
All information on vehicles that have completed operational tests in the editorial office can be found in reports that were printed in the paper versions of the magazine and posted on the website.We will not be able to add anything to them, with all our desire, due to the remoteness of the years.If you have any questions about Shniva, which is now in our park, or in general about the model, we will be happy to answer.
Good afternoon. In one of the articles about the silver Chevy Niva, you wrote that the gauge on the instrument panel began to go closer to the overheating mark. I have the same thing, although the car does not seem to heat up. I changed the sensor on the block - it did not help. Maybe you found a reason? (Alexei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Alexey!
To begin with, I will clarify that there is a temperature indicator in the instrument cluster, and the sensor is in the cooling system.
On our car, a slight displacement of the pointer arrow towards a higher temperature did not in any way affect the functioning of the cooling system and the engine as a whole. Since the "sensor + pointer" system cannot be considered a measuring device that determines the temperature of the coolant with an accuracy of one degree, it was decided that during operation the error of one of these two components slightly increased, so there is no reason for concern. In our case, replacing the sensor did not help either. Most likely, the pointer is sinning, but replacing it is daunting, and buying a new instrument cluster is expensive.
Check that the coolant level is normal and that the cooling fan is working properly and does not run continuously. In this case, the coolant temperature does not exceed critical values, and the engine is not in danger.
A similar system (sensor and gauge) helps determine the fuel level in the tank. However, looking at the position of the pointer arrow, it is impossible to determine the fuel reserve with an accuracy of a liter.
I have several questions about both Chevy Niva, which was and is: 1. The previous Shnivy of the end of 2003 had a lot of complaints at the beginning of operation, judging by the articles in the magazine (2004, No. 12, 2005 No. 8), she just crumbled, and then, a few years later, in 2011 and 2013, it was written about her that she was quite fighting, once again lacking in faults. Explain, how did it happen that she radically changed? At what stage did the changes in her "behavior" take place? I also want to clarify when, at what mileage did you eventually change the mirror that was tightened with a bolt for a new one (in articles for 2011 and 2013, the mirror is no longer mentioned)? And was there a similar problem with the right mirror afterwards? 2. How much that burgundy Shniva was better than the very first Zarulevskoy silver Shniva 2002 onwards. in terms of reliability? 3. What happened to the old burgundy Chevy Niva in the end? Did you sell it to an “outside” customer? How much mileage did it have at the time of sale? And what happened to the old trailer - was it sold or thrown away? Further questions regarding the comparison of burgundy Shnivy with the current red. 4. Does the new red have a problem with the folding seats and rattling shelf that the old burgundy had? 5. About the fifth door lock. The burgundy Shnivy had no lock seal at the end of the fifth door. Was there a problem with knocking the lock on this door and is there a similar problem with the new car? 6. Since the new one has a more modern rear window washer jet, were there any problems with the old "column" of the washer in the burgundy car? 7. How long do the front and rear pads go on both Shnivy? (Sergei)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Sergey!
It is not clear why there are so many detailed questions regarding the car, which has not been in the editorial office for a long time, and, most likely, in life? This suggests that you are trying to dig up some kind of compromising material on the magazine or on me personally and will soon turn from an inquisitive Sergei into a boring "troll" ... Well, if I'm wrong ...
I'll be brief just in case.
1. Everything is simple here. When buying a "foreign car" there was an expectation of high quality components and products as a whole. But life turned out to be quite different. Over time, it turned out that shock absorbers, ball, water pump, etc. on this machine are "consumables", the real life of their service has been determined. A person quickly gets used to everything - the next replacement of components is no longer a surprise, and therefore the attitude towards the car has changed.
2. Burgundy and silver Chevrolet Niva were operated in different modes and in different conditions, the task of comparing their reliability was not initially set.
3. The car was sold to a stranger, I don't know the last name. Mileage at the time of sale was approximately 190 thousand km. The trailer is alive to this day.
4. There are no problems with the layout of the seats, the shelf does not rattle.
5. The fifth door in the lock does not knock, does not require attention.
6. The rear washer nozzle functions without problems.
7. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the old car in the usual brake system for its time had a brake force regulator, and the new one is distinguished by the presence of ABS. Nevertheless, we change the front pads, as before, after 30 thousand km, although this figure depends on the driving style. The back ones can go through, probably, thousands to a hundred, but we forcibly change them every fifty. There was no difference between the cars in the rate of pad wear, presumably because the difference in driving style has a greater effect than the presence of ABS.
Hello! JV GM-AVTOVAZ recommends oils from the manufacturer petro-canada, there is information on the forums that when using fuels and lubricants from this manufacturer, the motor works worse (hydraulic compensators knock) and the car rolls worse due to resistance in the gearboxes. Do you have any experience in operating this oil and which one do you use? Thank you. (Anton)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Anton, good afternoon!
I can't believe that in the summer, in everyday use, you can determine that the car has become worse rolling. This can only be revealed by carrying out comparative tests under special conditions, with measuring equipment. The difference can be felt only in the cold, but usually the car rolls poorly in such conditions, if summer oil with a high viscosity is poured into the transmission, regardless of the brand.
Such oil did not come across to the eye, respectively, there is no operating experience. We fill the engine with Castrol Magnatec 10W40, we have been using it for many years on cars that are running on tire tests. In transmissions (gearboxes, gearboxes, gearboxes) we use Castrol Syntrax Universal Plus 75W-90 (APi-GL-4 / APi Gl-5) - it is suitable for any gear, including hypoid gears. There are no problems with a cold start, rolling in the cold and no complaints.
Good day! How resourceful is the Chevrolet Niva engine considered? What is the corrosion resistance of the bodywork? How quickly does rust appear in the engine compartment, suspension elements? (Michael)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Michael, hello! We answer your question taking into account the operation of the previous machine. The conditions and modes of use of both machines are similar - maintenance of tire tests, about a third of the run with a trailer with a load of 400 to 500 kg. The first covered about 200 thousand kilometers, and the engine did not require overhaul yet. Today's car is approaching 100 thousand in terms of mileage, the engine whispers and retains a good spirits comparable to those of young years. We believe that a lot depends on the attitude towards the car, the quality of the engine oil and timely service.
The first car has been promoted since childhood, the second (today's) lives without additional corrosion treatment. None of the rust was noted anywhere - the surface of the body, the engine compartment, the bottom are alive, while the cars of the tenth family, and later the Priora, operated in parallel, in some places "flourished". Today, on our Chevrolet Niva, you can find reddishness only on some elements of the exhaust system, which, in our opinion, is quite acceptable. Let's clarify that we are talking about cars operating in the Volga region, mainly in the city of Togliatti and near it, where in winter the roads are watered with chemistry extremely rarely and not as abundantly as in the capital.
Good day! I analyzed the oil from the Chevrolet Niva after a run of 1100 km (total mileage 20,000 km) and found that the oil contained 20 ppm iron and 55 ppm lead. The rest of the metals are normal. The farm also has a carburetor Niva-2131 with a 1.8 engine (mileage 146,000 km): analysis also after 1100 km showed a similar pattern of wear (40 ppm iron and 60 ppm lead). Can we talk about a general tendency of increased wear of VAZ engines on Nivas compared to Zhiguli? Still, as a rule, engines on the Niva require overhaul in the region of 100,000 km of run, i.e. this confirms the more intensive wear of the engines on VAZ off-road vehicles. And what exactly wears out with such presence of lead and absence of tin? Inserts? Thank you. (Dmitriy)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Dmitry!
I'm sorry, but the answer contains a very large number of counter questions. Let's start by finding out what ppm is - translated from English it means "parts per million", or one millionth. Converted to percentages, one percent equals 10,000 ppm. That is, in this case, the presence of iron is 2–4, and lead is 5.5–6 thousandth fractions of a percent... Chemists call such content "traces", but not "presence". "The rest of the metals are normal" - what is the norm and who set it?
Questions also arise about the correctness of measurements. What is the accuracy of the instrument or device that took these measurements? Are there any pre-fill oil test results? It is possible to talk about what appeared in the oil after a certain run by comparing its two states - before and after. And where are the results of oil analysis after working in Zhiguli engines?
How can you compare the wear of different engines, relying on the results of oil research only from "Niva" engines? The presence of lead today is prohibited in fuel and in any other products used for any modern engine, as it will get into the combustion chamber and instantly poison the neutralizer. After all, engine oil enters the combustion chamber, and with it lead ...
In our opinion, the figures given are traces of the presence that could arise from the contact of the oil with the container in which it was transported and stored before it was poured into the engine. It is possible that leaded gasoline was stored in this container for a long time. We see no connection between the conclusions you made about the increased wear of the "vaz ovsky motors on the Niva in comparison with the Zhiguli "and the given oil analysis results.
What is the reason and how to independently eliminate the periodically unpredictable vibration of the engine at idle speed. Sh-niva my release in September 2014 .. mileage is now 45 thousand km. Share your experience. Thank you. (Vyacheslav)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
Hello Vyacheslav!
I'm sorry, but neither we, when operating our Chevrolet Niva car, nor our colleagues in the shop, operating other cars, have encountered such a problem. The most likely cause of engine idling vibration is cylinder misfires. The culprit is most likely a periodically failing spark plug, high voltage wires, ignition coil, or other components of the ignition system. Perhaps the problems lie in the fuel supply system - first of all, you should check the operation of the injectors. To clarify the reason, it is best to contact the diagnostics service station.
+ 13 − -2You wrote that you have supplied an increased power generator. Did it help? (Alexander)
Sergey Mishin, editor of the magazine "Za Rulem" (department of automotive information):
- Yes, in January 2016 we replaced the standard generator (80 A) with a 120-ampere KZATE 7712.3701-01. With it, the battery is fully charged even in urban driving mode in winter. True, after six months of operation, the new "power plant" weakened in the charging current. After repairs in a specialized workshop (replacement of the built-in regulator and one bearing - apparently, it was buzzing at the stand) for little money, 1200 rubles, the battery is always in good shape.
Good afternoon, dear readers. The topic of today's article is the weak points of the Chevrolet Niva car. The article was written based on the experience of owning cars in 2006. and 2012 onwards
Chevrolet Niva history.
The first sample of the VAZ 2123 "Niva" car was shown at the Moscow Motor Show in 1998. The future shniva differed from the VAZ 21213 in the wheelbase, body shape, transmission and more expensive interior trim. In fact, it was a new car, the most unified with the VAZ 21213 mastered in production.
Unfortunately, she inherited not only advantages, but also disadvantages.
AvtoVAZ did not have enough money to master the new model, and then the plant sold the Niva brand to General Motors Corporation. GM made more than 1,700 design changes to the car and organized production under its own brand in 2002. So the VAZ 2123 became a Chevrolet Niva.
Until 2009, the car was produced practically unchanged, in 2009 a shallow restyling was performed during which the car received several trim levels, plastic lining on the body panels and a new transmission.
In our article, we will consider both pre-styling and post-styling cars and evaluate the work of the factory on fine-tuning the model.
Weaknesses of pre-styling Shnivy 2002-2009
Engine.
The engine is reliable, and drives near death, spare parts for it are common and are in any collective farm, there are only three problems with it:
- it is very weak for the field. 79 horsepower accelerates the car to 100 km / h in 19 seconds, overtaking and speeds above 110 km / h are difficult for the car.
- as a consequence of the first two points - high fuel consumption. In winter, in the urban cycle with warming up, 16-18 liters are quiet, on the highway 8-9, the mixed cycle is a utopia.
Clutch.
The clutch with its own release bearing (in a plastic cage) does not like swinging very much. The clip melts and the grip is lost! To be treated by replacing the release bearing with a VAZ 2101 bearing. They themselves did not cost much, but replacing the release bearing is not a trivial task - half of the car will have to be disassembled
Transmission.
Transmission.
With timely maintenance, there are no problems with it.
Transfer case.
The unit is quite capricious, if the downshift and neutral are switched on relatively easily, then the inter-axle blocking at the slightest wear is turned on with great effort. The transfer case usually does not howl, but due to the backlash of the gears, it contributes to the sound of transmission shocks. When buying a car, be sure to check the center-to-center lock. On my 2 machines, it turned on with problems.
Cardan shafts.
Before the restyling of 2009, the car bryats with cardans…. After 2009, this problem was fixed, but shocks in the transmission remained due to the design of the transfer case and gearboxes with drives.
Body.
Decay begins in the wheel arches, door bottoms and sills. Color quality is not high and chips bloom quickly.
The body also desperately needs improved sound insulation, if up to 100 km / h in the car is relatively comfortable, then after this milestone you have to strain your voice.
The main drawback of the body is a very small trunk (but this is not surprising given the size of the wheelbase of the cornfield), this can be treated by installing a roof rack, but this will worsen aerodynamics and add a howl.
Weaknesses of the restyled Chevrolet Niva 2009 - present
Restyling 2009 Made the cornfield somewhat better, but not without a fly in the ointment.
Engine.
With the transition to Euro-3 and higher, an exhaust gas catalytic converter was introduced. In our conditions, it refuses to 60,000-80,000 km of run and is replaced by our optimizers with a flame arrester from cars with Euro-2 engines (while the environmental class is reduced, but money and fuel are saved.
There are quite a few negative reviews on the 16-valve Opel engine offered as an option, so we will not consider it.
Also, after restyling in 2009, the air conditioner became available in 2 basic trim levels (before restyling, it is an option). In general, a car with an air conditioner is more comfortable, but due to a weak engine, fuel consumption increases greatly and at idle, with the simultaneous operation of the power steering and the air conditioner, the engine speed drops very much.
Transmission.
In general, the blows from the transmission were gone, but the difficult engagement of the center lock remained, and the release bearing was never cured.
By body
Plastic linings for fenders and doors became hotbeds of corrosion. The linings are glued to the doors and over time, dust gets under them, which gets wet and all this actively rusts, although the attractive appearance remains for a long time.
A common drawback for the entire production time is the quality of spare parts in retail, but this is not the fault of the designers and the manufacturer's plant.
Equipment and configurations since 2009
Let's summarize.
For the money, the Chevrolet Niva is a great car. The price-performance ratio is excellent….
In conclusion, I suggest you watch this video review of the Chevrolet Niva:
That's all for me today, if you know other weak points of the Chevrolet Niva, or you have something to add to the article, write comments.
