So we got around to putting ourselves a cruise control ford focus 3. For a long time, the buttons were lying around in the trunk and here they are on the steering wheel. In the beginning, I will tell you what I did, well, below is a little theory. By the way, I have a Trend dispute, rp32, and buttons on the steering wheel ok-m.
So, the cruise can be put on any configuration. For this you need:
- Install buttons on the steering wheel
- Flash cruise control in car configuration
Let's start by installing the cruise control buttons on the ford focus 3
Preparation. Let's check that we have everything at hand:
- The screwdriver is flat, not very long (we need it to remove the pillow)
- Mirror (without it, especially the first time is unrealistically difficult)
- Key 8 (to disconnect the battery)
- Sharp knife
- Ordinary pliers (it is convenient to cut the steering wheel with them)
- Tap М4
- 2 screws M4 * 8 and 2 washers
- Insulating tape
- crosshead screwdriver
- pin or needle
- Actually cruise control button for ford focus 3
- Wires
- Well, more free time (I killed 3 hours for this)
And so we have everything, let's get started.
- The first step is to turn off the battery so that the alarm does not go off when the pillow is removed from the steering wheel. Let me remind you that we remove the plus from the battery (it is located under the casing), here we need a key for 8.
Now we begin to remove the pillow.
Remove the top cover from the steering wheel. To do this, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees and snap off the latch, then 90 degrees to the other side and snap off the second one.
And then we pull on ourselves. It comes out from the back of the grooves in the form of hooks
There are two options for how to unfasten the pillow: the first is through large holes (circled in red in the picture below) or through small oval holes (circled in blue)
I shot through oval holes. To understand how to shoot you need to shoot yourself at least once. The first time I spent half an hour on it. In theory, you need to insert a screwdriver into the oval hole, at an angle (pull up towards the ceiling), insert it all the way and press it against the steering block. The pillow should come unfastened on one side. After that, we hold the pillow so that it does not fasten back, and turn the steering wheel 180 degrees (90 degrees from the straight position), so that you can do the same operation on the other side. After unfastening the pillow, gently pull towards ourselves and unfasten 2 connectors.
And now the pillow is removed:
Now we begin to shred our steering wheel. We do it carefully and little by little, trying on all the time. For convenience, it is better to disassemble the ford focus 3 cruise control buttons into 3 parts and first try on only the buttons (without covers). It is better to cut with ordinary pliers, and trim with a knife. Easy to cut. Here is the place where the cut is shown in red, green for the screws:
After cutting out, we try on the buttons and fasten them. You can screw it in 2 ways:
- Self-tapping screw for metal
- By screws
I fastened with screws. This requires 2 screws M4 * 8 and a tap to cut the threads for them. Here's what happened:
Now the crucial moment is wiring. I had the wiring for the cruise and the radio with a green plug, so I cut off all that was unnecessary. Then he pushed the wires from the wiring into the pillow block. Here are two pads (On the left is the pad of my steering wheel cushion, on the right is the pad that came with the buttons.):
And so, from the button wiring block, we simply poke wires 8, 15, 16 into the pillow block. Then we twist the green button wire with the black pillow and the black button wire with the brown pillow wire. Simply put, if there is a cruise wiring, then we look at which pins are occupied by its wires and poke them into the pillow block. If the pins are free on the pillows, then we simply poke over (such as 8, 15, 16), and if they are occupied, then we unwind (such as 10 and 7). It is more convenient to rewind the wires at the left button of the airbag.
Now we connect everything, put the pillow back:
It remains to flash the whole thing and you're done!
Display of cruise control on the on-board computer
And some numbers)))):
a little theory various variations:
1. You do not have an RP-7 joystick under the helmsman or a cruise
You need to buy 2 wires - steering and pillows, because in the steering wheel harness for cruising ANOTHER airbag connector. You have a square, in a new wiring round, small green
Rooms:
1801776 - pillow wiring
1801772 - steering wheel harness for cruise control
2. Do you have a cruise from the factory or a joystick RP-7 (under the steering wheel) set the cruise
You already have wiring 1801776 from the factory and you only need to change the steering wheel wiring.
Rooms:
1801774 - steering wheel wiring for cruise and joystick RP-7 under the steering
1692215 or 1784105 - cruise control buttons
3. Transfer from OK-M to OK-OK
You must have native pillow wiring i.e. 1801776 and it is not at all necessary to buy the entire pillow, you just need to buy the right OK button. The button is held outside on 3 or 2 self-tapping screws - it's easy to change.
Rooms:
1801776 - pillow wiring
1687313 - Right OK button.
4. Installing the RP-7 joystick on a cruise car
It is necessary to cut the steering wheel and change the wiring in the steering wheel:
Rooms:
1801774 - steering wheel wiring for cruise and joystick RP-7 under the steering column
1687311 buttons of the audio unit RP-7 (under the steering wheel)
(I ordered by this number, in fact there are 2 of them - 1693377 and 1687311, which will come by the number 1693377, I don't know)
IMPORTANT:
Any changes must be flashed! What is cruise control, what is under the steering joystick, what is the right button OK
Ford Focus 3. Major steering malfunctions
|
Sign |
Probable cause |
Elimination method |
|
Increased free play of the steering wheel |
Loose connection in universal joint |
Tighten |
|
Steering gear bolts not securely tightened |
Tighten the bolts |
|
|
Large play or wear of the tie rod end |
||
|
Insufficient belt tension |
Adjust the belt tension |
|
|
Belt damage |
Replace belt |
|
|
Add liquid |
Low liquid level |
|
|
Air in liquid |
Remove air from liquid |
|
|
Kinked or damaged hoses |
Position correctly or replace |
|
|
Insufficient pressure generated by the pump |
Repair or replace pump |
|
|
Replace |
|
Sign |
Probable cause |
Elimination method |
|
The steering wheel is difficult to turn |
Stuck pressure control valve |
Replace |
|
Internal leaks in the power steering pump |
Replace damaged parts |
|
|
Excessive fluid seepage from the rack and pinion into the steering gear housing |
Replace damaged parts |
|
|
Damage to steering gear housing or pressure control valve |
Replace damaged parts |
|
|
The steering wheel does not return to its original position properly |
Too much torque of the ball joint of the tie rod end |
Replace the tie rod end |
|
The universal joint is too tight |
Adjust |
|
|
Internal tie rod joint or ball joint is difficult to turn |
Lubricate or replace the ball joint |
|
|
Loose fastening of the steering gear in the bracket |
Tighten |
|
|
Worn steering shaft joints or body O-ring |
Replace |
|
|
Damaged steering gear |
Replace steering gear |
|
|
Damaged steering gear bearing |
Replace |
|
|
Kinked or damaged hoses |
Replace hoses |
|
|
Pressure control valve damaged |
Replace |
|
|
Damaged power steering pump shaft bearing |
Replace |
|
|
Extraneous noise during steering operation |
Hissing sound in steering gear All power steering generates additional noise. One of the most common is a hissing sound when the steering wheel is turned while the vehicle is stationary. This sound will be most evident when you turn the steering wheel with the brake pedal depressed. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance. Do not replace the valve unless the “hissing” noise becomes extreme. The new valve will also make a little noise. |
|
|
Rumbling sound in steering gear |
Backlash between hoses and car body |
Route and secure hoses |
|
Steering gear is not fixed |
Secure the steering gear |
|
|
Tie rod end and / or ball joint not secured |
Tighten connections |
|
|
Worn tie rod end and / or ball joint |
Replace |
|
|
Noise in the power steering pump |
Low liquid level |
Add liquid |
|
Air in liquid |
Remove the air |
|
|
Pump mounting bolts not tightened |
Tighten the bolts |
|
Power steering malfunctions
|
Possible causes of the malfunction |
Elimination method |
|
Increased free movement of the steering wheel |
|
|
Loosening of the rail stop adjusting screw |
Tighten |
|
Loosening of the steering gear mounting bolts |
Tighten |
|
Looseness or wear of the ball joints of the steering rods |
Tighten the mount or replace the hinges |
|
Stiff steering wheel (insufficient power) |
|
|
Slipping of the power steering pump drive belt |
Adjust belt tension |
|
Damage to the pump drive belt |
Replace belt |
|
Air ingress in the hydraulic system - |
Remove air |
|
Insufficient pressure of the power steering pump |
Eliminate the problem or replace the pump |
|
Distributor seized |
Replace |
|
Increased internal leaks in the pump |
Replace defective pump parts |
|
Increased fluid leakage from the steering gear |
Replace defective parts |
|
Misaligned or damaged steering gear or distributor seals |
Replace seals |
|
Fuzzy return of the steering wheel to the middle position |
|
|
Increased turning moment of the ball joints of the ends of the steering rods |
Replace |
|
Excessive tightening of the rail stop adjusting screw |
Tighten the screw correctly |
|
Difficult turning of the inner joints and / or the joints of the tie rod ends |
Replace |
|
Loosening of the bolts fastening the steering gear to the subframe |
Tighten the bolts |
|
Worn steering shaft universal joint and / or seal |
Eliminate malfunction or replace |
|
Deformation of the steering rack |
Replace |
|
Drive gear bearing damage |
Replace |
|
Kinked or damaged hoses |
Eliminate kinks or replace hoses |
|
Damaged pressure control valve |
Replace |
|
Damaged pump rotor roller bearing |
Replace bearing |
|
Noise (knock) in steering |
|
|
Hoses touching body |
Route the hoses correctly |
|
Looseness of the steering rack bracket |
Tighten the mount |
|
Looseness of fastening of steering rods and / or ball joints of the rod ends |
Tighten the mount |
|
Worn steering rods and / or ball joints |
Replace |
|
Increased noise of the hydraulic booster pump |
|
|
Insufficient working fluid level |
Restore fluid levels to normal |
|
Air ingress into the hydraulic system |
Remove air |
|
Loosening the pump mounting bolts |
Tighten the bolts |
Troubleshooting steering without power steering
An increased free play of the steering wheel is possible for the following reasons: the presence of gaps in the joints of the steering rods of the front wheels, a violation of the adjustment of the engagement of the worm and the roller or their increased wear, wear of the bushings or the axis of the pendulum arm, weakening of the fastening of the housing of the steering mechanism or the bracket of the pendulum arm. To determine the gaps in the steering rod joints, it is recommended for one person to turn the steering wheel to the right and left with sharp movements, and the second person to feel or visually identify the gaps by pressing his fingers to two parts connected by the joints.
If one part of the connection moves, and the other is stationary, then there is a backlash; if both parts move simultaneously, then there is no backlash. You can also determine the backlash in the hinge joints by moving the rod with your hands in the longitudinal direction. If, for example, the longitudinal link moves with the bipod, then there is no play in the articulation. If even a small gap is found in the hinge, it is necessary to eliminate (replace the hinge).
Violation of the adjustment of the engagement of the worm and the roller or their increased wear is also determined with a sharp swing of the steering wheel (to the right and left of the middle position) by the occurrence of knocks in the steering mechanism. You can do this directly by swinging the steering drive bipod with your hand. The malfunction is eliminated by adjusting the engagement of the worm and the roller, and in case of heavy wear, by replacing the parts.
The wear of the bushings or the pendulum arm axis is determined by squeaking and knocking when turning the wheels to the right and left, as well as by directly swinging the pendulum arm up and down. The malfunction is eliminated by tightening the pendulum arm axis nut or by replacing worn parts. Loosening of the steering housing and the swingarm bracket is removed by tightening the corresponding bolts and nuts.
Tight rotation of the steering wheel or sticking in the steering mechanism may be due to improper adjustment of the side play in the worm engagement, excessive tightening of the worm bearings, increased wear of the roller or worm, bent steering rods, insufficient oil in the steering housing, thickening of the lubricant at low temperatures air, low pressure in the tires of the front wheels.
If, when the vehicle is moving, there is a tight rotation of the steering wheel or a sticking in the steering gear, then, first of all, it is necessary to check the air pressure in the tires and the lubrication in the steering gear housing. Then check the condition of the steering rods. If the rods are bent, they must be straightened or replaced, and then be sure to adjust the wheel alignment. If the seizure persists, you need to disassemble the steering gear and replace the worn and damaged parts. Steering knocks have the same causes as increased steering wheel play. Their definition and methods of elimination were discussed above.
Lubricant leakage from the steering gear housing can occur due to wear of the bipod or worm shaft oil seal, loosening of the crankcase cover or damage to the gaskets. The defect is eliminated by replacing worn out oil seals or damaged gaskets, pulling the cover bolts.
By the way, you can install turnkey cruise control in St. Petersburg with us
(registration by phone. 8-900-222-0-444 )
As you know, cruise control for Ford Focus 3 (Kuga 2) comes as an additional option and is ordered separately when purchasing a car. But those who bought a car from the presence of an authorized dealer or simply from their hands can not despair and set the cruise control on their own. The cruise control button hides two functions, like the cruise control itself - when the car is moving at a given speed, and the speed limiter function when the car does not go above the set speed, for example, you are driving on a highway with many cameras, set the speed to 90 km / h and above this speed, the car will not go.
Cruise control on Ford Focus 3 (Kuga 2) can be installed on any configuration, any engine and any gearbox. There are two ways to get cruise control:
1) buy a new steering wheel already with a cruise control button
2) install the cruise control button in the existing steering wheel
If method number one does not cause any difficulties - you just need to replace the steering wheel and activate cruise control, then method number two will seem quite difficult to many. Let's dwell on it in more detail.
To independently install the cruise control button, we need:
1) activate the cruise control function and the speed limiter function (ASDL). If you have a button without a speed limiter (for Ford Kuga II 2.5 liters), then only the cruise control is activated.
2), which will crash into the steering wheel
3) wiring suitable for your car
4) two small self-tapping screws, thread sealant, stationery knife
It is better to activate cruise control at the very beginning, as the car needs some time to adapt. Then you need to remove the airbag.
Then we remove the steering wheel with a 24 key (it is not necessary to remove the steering wheel, it is just more convenient to cut the removed steering wheel). The steering wheel will return in the same position as before it was removed. So, we need to cut a hole in the steering wheel for the cruise control button.
For the convenience of fitting, it is better to disassemble the button into three parts, then gradually cut the steering wheel.
Do this especially carefully at the bottom, as you can cut off the excess.
In the steering wheel itself there will be nests for self-tapping screws, rubber should also be removed from them. After successful cutting, we install the button and put it on self-tapping screws lubricated with thread sealant.
We connect the wiring and install everything back and enjoy the new function in our car.
Turnkey installation:
RUB 10.500
Wiring revision only:
Cruise control Ford Mondeo 5
Turnkey installation:
Buttons (original), activation:
9.000 RUB
Cruise control Ford Focus 3 Restyle (2015 onwards-2018 onwards) & Kuga 2 Restyle (2016 onwards -)
Turnkey installation:
Buttons (original), insert, revision of wiring (connector installation, pinout), activation:
with a limiter - 10.500 rubles.
Wiring revision only:
Connector installation, pinout - 1.500 rubles.
Cruise control Ford Focus
3 Dorestyle (2011 onwards-2015 onwards) & Kuga 2 Dorestyle (2012 onwards-2016 onwards)
Turnkey installation:
Buttons (original), wiring (original), insert, activation:
with a limiter - 10.500 rubles.
without limiter (2.5 L) - 10.500 rubles.
Please note that the Ford cruise control is installed in the microdistrict-not Shcherbinka!
Photo report of the installation of cruise control on a Ford or how we do it:
Original wiring, no "twists", etc. Only high quality connectors and pins!
High-quality installation of buttons, steering wheel processing takes place according to a special template with a professional tool! No glue inside, "left" tape and other nonsense! Once installed, the steering wheel looks like a factory fitted Ford cruise control!
Cruise control is a useful function during long trips, Ford Kuga 2 trim levels The trend is deprived of this function, like some Ford models. The article describes what the cruise control is, how to install it on a Ford Focus 3.
[Hide]
Why do you need cruise control in your car?
Cruise control (CC) is a device that is designed to maintain a constant speed while the car is moving without the participation of the driver. For safety, the KK is disabled if the driver presses the brake pedal, and it also does not work when moving at a speed below 40 km / h.
The QC is controlled using five buttons:
- On - turns on the function;
- Off - turns off CC;
- Set \\ Accel - fixes the speed with which the car is moving, when pressed again, the speed increases by 2 km;
- Resume - serves to restore settings after pressing the brake pedal;
- Coast - when you press the button, the speed decreases.
The design of the device consists of several parts:
- mini-computer - control controller;
- several sensors: throttle, car speed, wheel speed, etc.;
- a drive connected to a choke;
- buttons to control the system.
The principle of operation is that the throttle valve is controlled not by pressing the gas pedal, but by means of a servo. The driver sets how fast the car should move. The system, depending on the data received from the sensors, selects the optimal operating mode of the power unit, maintaining the set driving mode (video author - Avto-Blogger.ru).
There are two cruise control systems: passive and adaptive. The second is distinguished by the presence of a radar or laser, which controls the distance to the vehicle moving in front, keeping the required distance at a given speed.
Feature Installation and Activation Guide
If the QC system is installed from the factory, then it is integrated into the overall control system. If you want to install KK on your machine, you should buy a ready-made system and install it yourself.
Required tools and materials
To install the KK, you need to purchase cruise control buttons and wires. It is cheaper to buy jumpers with connectors at the ends. 5 pieces required.
From the tools you need to prepare:
- 2 screwdrivers: Phillips and flat;
- nippers;
- key to "8";
- electrical tape;
- sharp knife;
- fastening material - 2 screws.
Stages
To install and activate the cruise control function, follow these steps:
- To prevent the steering wheel from locking, the key must be inserted into the ignition lock, but not started.
- Disconnect the battery first so that the alarm does not go off. To do this, you need to disconnect the plus of the battery.
- For convenience, we squeeze the steering wheel lock, located at the bottom of the column, and pull the steering wheel towards us.
- Next, remove the cover and the skirt of the steering column.
- The next step is to remove the airbag. The pillow can be unfastened either through small oval holes or through large ones. If the option of oval holes is selected, then a screwdriver must be inserted into them all the way at an angle and pressed against the steering column. The pillow will be unfastened on one side. We turn the steering wheel 180 degrees and unfasten the pillow on the other side.
- Pull the unfastened pillow towards ourselves. Then we disconnect 2 connectors: yellow for the pillow, black and red for the steering wheel.
- Next, cut out the holes for the buttons on the steering wheel. Along with the holes for the buttons, you need to make holes for the screws using a tap.
- Now we install the buttons and fasten them with screws.
- Next, we need to connect the wiring. All pins on the pillow connector are numbered. We bridge the purple wire to pin # 15, the green one - # 10 (soldered to the black one in the wiring), brown - # 16, gray - # 8, black - # 7 (soldered to the brown one from the wiring).
- We insulate and wind up the wires. This is best done near the left button of the pillow.
- Next, we fasten the steering wheel, connect the connectors back, connect the battery.
- Gently snap the pillow after we check that the buttons work: they should be lit and the corresponding inscription will appear on the tidy.
