The air in the heated towel rail is main reason ineffective device operation. The towel dryer simply stops heating, and the towels dry accordingly.
A heated towel rail is an unusual pipe in a bathroom. First of all, it is an alternative replacement for radiators, which are often not installed in bathrooms. Secondly, a drying device paired with high-quality ventilation provides clean and dry air in the room, preventing the formation of mold and mildew.
As you know, a heated towel rail is warm even in summer, when the heating is turned off, all because the device is connected to the hot water supply system. If the house is not connected to a centralized hot water supply, you can purchase an electric analogue.
Even a very beautiful heated towel rail can not heat well if there is air in it
Anyone who has used a heated towel rail for a while knows that without it they can go anywhere. The device is very useful in everyday life. Dry and warm towels are always waiting for you in the bathroom. You can dry small things (handkerchiefs, socks, etc.) or wet shoes on the heated towel rail.
The advantages of a heated towel rail in the house are well understood by parents who winter period you have to dry children's gloves or shoes every day.
The main problem of the drying device
After a certain period of using a heated towel rail, you will find that it has stopped heating and at that moment it is absolutely.
Residents of multi-storey buildings often face this problem when they turn on centralized system heating. At this time (when the pipes are filled with water), it is possible for air to form in the pipes. Such plugs usually appear in the final parts of the heating system, which is a heated towel rail.
As soon as air appears in the pipes, the high-quality circulation of hot water is disrupted, respectively, the dryer stops heating.
Prolonged downtime of a heated towel rail can significantly affect your habits and high-quality ventilation of the bathroom, because a high level of humidity even in a week can affect the decoration of the walls of the room.
If you are planning to install a towel dryer or have already installed it, you must be aware of all of them. possible problems and ways to solve them.
We release the air from the heated towel rail ourselves
Since the only problem that causes the device to malfunction is air, it must be eliminated.
As soon as you deflate the heated towel rail, it will start working again at the same level. Bleed air locks quite easily, you will cope with this problem yourself, without the help of specialists.
To make the mechanism warm again, air can be deflated in two ways:
- Classic or traditional way.
- The modern way.
On some models, plugs are removed from the top of the heated towel rail, there is a valve for bleeding the plugs.
The traditional method of removing air is to drain the water. Since the heated towel rail is connected to the water supply system, it is enough just to drain all the water along with air locks. In multi-storey buildings, water is drained on the upper floor through a riser. If the drain is in your apartment, it's even easier - you can drain the water yourself.
Sometimes draining all the water is not enough, so you have to resort to the second option: unscrew the nut that secures the dryer to the pipes. Unscrew the nut very carefully and slowly. As soon as air comes out, you should stop.
Be sure to remove everything from the bathroom in advance so as not to flood with water, and substitute a container for water under the attachment point.
The modern way to bleed air involves a device called the "Mayevsky crane". Many heated towel rails come with a tap or can be purchased separately.
The tap is attached to the drying device and is intended only for air release, it cannot shut off the water. The valve consists of an adjusting screw and a needle valve.
Using a special wrench or screwdriver, turn the screw, the valve will open, air will completely escape from the mechanism. The air must be deflated until water comes out without bubbles. Experts recommend flushing the water until a trickle of not warm, but even hot water flows.
Before carrying out all the work, be sure to also take care of precautions: remove from the bathroom everything that is afraid of moisture and substitute a water container under the heated towel rail.
When all the air has been released, screw the screw back, after which the device should warm up again.
If you do not have a Mayevsky tap and the possibility of acquiring it, you can bleed the air from the heated towel rail using improvised means.
To remove air from the pipes yourself, you will need:
- pliers;
- screwdriver;
- key.
Connection diagram
Using the tools at hand, work should be done, similar to Mayevsky's crane. You don't have to have plumbing skills. Arm yourself the necessary tools, open the air vent, release the air and close tightly.
First, you will hear a noise - it is air coming out, then water will flow. Let the air out until the water rises and becomes warm.
As you noticed, flushing the water is not difficult at all. You do not need to hire a master and spend money from the family budget.
Installation of the Mayevsky crane
Do not be afraid that the Mayevsky crane is a complex structure that is difficult to install and expensive. Not at all, the valve is just two parts: a tapered screw and a body.
Mayevsky crane with a key
The purpose of the tap is to remove air to the outside, a guarantee of high-quality operation of the heated towel rail.
The principle of operation of the device: when the tap is open, air from the system enters the body, where it is removed through the side opening; when the screw is closed, neither air nor liquid can escape from the pipeline.
When choosing a Mayevsky faucet, pay attention to the diameter of the outer thread; it should correspond to the size of your pipes that are used in the heating system.
Depending on the design, the Mayevsky crane can be opened and closed either by hand or with a special key or screwdriver.
When installing the tap, make sure that the hole is at the bottom of the tap. In this case, collecting water, it will fall directly into the container, and not on the walls of the bathroom. And the tap itself needs to be mounted at the top of the heated towel rail to make it easier to release the air.
This is a device for removing air (gas) accumulations in hot water heating and water supply systems.
Why is it necessary to install this airplane?
During the operation of closed cycle heating devices, gases are emitted, consisting of air, hydrogen, oxygen, which must be released from the system so as not to disrupt its normal functioning. The most unpleasant consequences lie in noise effects and in the difficulty of water circulation, which entails uneven heating of the space, corrosion and premature aging of pipes and parts.
The principle of the air release valve
The operation of the automatic air release valve is very simple and is based on the Archimedes principle. When there is no accumulated air inside the valve, the float is in a raised position and, by means of a special mechanism, keeps the pin plug closed. Lowering of the float, caused by accumulation of air inside the valve, leads to the opening of the valve and the subsequent release of air until the initial position is restored. When the system is full and there is no water in the valve, the float is in the lowest position and air is quickly released. The venting can be prevented by screwing in the top plug. In normal use, the plug must be removed.
Example:
Removing gas accumulations is a task to be solved already at the design stage of a heating system. Air can enter the heating system in different ways: it partially remains in a free state when filled with water; as a result of air leaks during operation of an incorrectly designed heating system; introduced with make-up water in absorbed (adsorbed) form. Even in a system with deaerated water, hydrogen with an admixture of other gases can appear. The amount of free air remaining in pipes and devices when they are filled cannot be accurately measured, but in the case of a properly designed system, it is eliminated during the first days of operation. It is best if, before starting at the beginning of the heating season, the heating system is filled with cold water from the water supply network to a predetermined level in the height of the building. The system is filled with water from the bottom up and is possible only when the air in the pipelines and heating devices is displaced into the atmosphere through appropriate devices: manual air valves and automatic air vents.
The amount of dissolved air (gas) introduced into the system with periodic water additions during operation is determined depending on the air content in the make-up water. Cold tap water contains over 30 g of air in 1 ton of water, make-up deaerated from the heating network - less than 1 g. An increase in water temperature leads to a significant decrease in the content of dissolved gases in it, and in places where hot water is under pressure close to atmospheric, the largest amount of gas adsorbed in it passes into a free state. Increasing pressure, on the other hand, delays this process. According to Henry's law, the amount of adsorbed gas at a given temperature is directly proportional to pressure. It should also be noted that the air dissolved in water is more corrosive for steel pipes than atmospheric air, since the oxygen content in it is 10-12% more by volume. In addition, another reason for "gas pollution" heating systems becomes corrosion. So, during the oxidation of 1 cm3 of iron, up to 1 liter of hydrogen can be released. Considering all of the above, the main reasons for the appearance of gas (air) accumulations in closed heating systems can be called the introduction of air with make-up water and corrosion of metals.
First of all, it is necessary to install air vents on aluminum radiators due to the fact that aluminum, acting on water as a catalyst, accelerates the process of its decomposition into hydrogen and oxygen. To a somewhat lesser extent, this applies to bimetallic radiators with aluminum heads. You should always remember: when servicing air vents in heating systems with aluminum radiators Do not use open flames or smoke in the immediate vicinity, as this may ignite the flammable gases emitted during operation of the system. And one more recommendation: in accordance with the theory, air vents with safety valves should be installed on all devices, including on thin-walled steel panel radiators. By the way, Western European firms usually supply them in this way, despite the fact that their heating system operating conditions are much better. And finally, concluding the consideration of the application, we note: an automatic air vent is the same integral element of the boiler safety group as a pressure gauge and a safety valve.
It is allowed to twist automatic air vents for the place of Mayevsky taps, which are manual valves for air release. This is how the Mayevsky crane looks like: 
I do not advise taking such airplanes.
Today we have to find out why we need to install an air vent in the water supply system. In addition, we will find out in which part of the water supply circuit it can be installed, which air vents can be used there and how to solve the problem of air in the water supply without an air vent. Let's get started.
About hot water supply
First, let's find out why the water supply system is airing and how it interferes. Let's start from afar.
It always has a dead-end wiring: the bottling goes into risers, they branch to the liners, and the liners end with plumbing taps. Water moves in a dead-end circuit only due to the drawdown.
DHW dead-end scheme
Until about the 70s of the last century, hot water supply systems (DHW) in all houses under construction were organized in the same way.
However, this layout has two major drawbacks:
- Having opened a hot water tap, the home owner has to wait for it to heat up for several minutes. The wait is especially long at night and in the mornings, when in the absence of water intake the risers and hot water spouts cool down. This is not only inconvenient, but also contributes unnecessarily great expense water;
Please note: when registering the consumption of hot water on a mechanical water meter, you are forced to pay for the entire volume passing through it. In fact, a significant part of this volume does not meet the requirements of the current operating standards: the DHW temperature must be within the range of +50 - + 75 ° C.
- Heating of bathrooms and combined toilets in apartment buildings is provided by a heated towel rail powered by a hot water supply system. It is clear that in the absence of water intake in a dead-end system, it will cool down. For the owner of the apartment, this means dampness and coldness in the bathroom, and in the long term - a greater likelihood of fungal damage to the walls.
Circulation circuit
From the late 70s - early 80s, hot water supply in new buildings gradually began to become circulating.
How it is implemented:
- On the basement or subfloor of the house, two hot water filling is laid;
- Each filling has an independent connection to the elevator unit;
- Hot water risers are connected alternately to both dispenses and are connected by jumpers on the upper floor or in the attic. From 2 to 7 risers can be combined into groups connected by circulation bridges.
Please note: installing jumpers in the attic is extremely unwise in cold climates. The author encountered it in the Far East: when the temperature in the cold attic room is -20 - -30 degrees, the circulation in the DHW system stops (for example, when emergency shutdown hot water) causes the water in the lintel to freeze for an hour.
In order for the water to continuously circulate through the risers and bottoms, a pressure difference must be created between them. In the elevator unit and further, in the heating circuit supplied from it, circulation is provided by the pressure difference between the supply and return pipelines of the heating main. The obvious way to feed the hot water supply is between the feed and return connections.
However, in this case, an unpleasant surprise awaits us: the by-pass between the pipelines will drastically reduce the drop at the water-jet elevator, preventing the heating from working.
The problem is solved simply and gracefully:
- DHW cuts into the supply to the elevator at two points. Each of the tie-ins is supplied with shut-off valves;
- The flange is equipped with a retaining washer between the bores. This is the name of a steel pancake, in which a hole with a diameter of 1 mm larger than the diameter of the nozzle is drilled in the center. When regular work the elevator and the associated movement of water along the supply line, such a washer creates a difference between the inserts of about 1 meter of water column (0.1 atmosphere);
- On the return pipeline, exactly the same two tie-ins with the same retaining washer are mounted.
The elevator with DHW circulation connections has three operating modes:
- Hot water circulates from supply to supply... This scheme is used in spring and autumn, at a relatively low (up to 80 degrees) coolant temperature in a straight line of the heating main;
- From return to return. In this mode, the DHW switches to winter when the flow temperature exceeds 80 ° C;
- From supply to return. So the hot water supply system with circulation is powered in summer, when the heating is turned off, and the difference between the lines of the heating main is minimal or absent.
Air! Air!
Risers, or even the entire DHW circuit, have to be reset from time to time.
There are several reasons for this:
- Seasonal renovation work (revision of valves, scheduled tests of heating mains, etc.);
- Emergency work (elimination of gusts, leaks of risers and spills);
- Work in apartments with faulty valves (in particular, replacement of these valves).
Now let's imagine what happens when you reset and then start a pair of jumpered risers:
- It is worth turning off the valves on the risers, unscrewing the plugs and opening any tap on any plumbing fixture, as the water will completely drain from the paired risers, and they will be filled with air;
- When starting the paired risers, the air will be forced out by the water pressure to the upper part of the closed loop - to the jumper;
- Since the pressure drop that drives the water is minimal, the air in the water supply system will completely stop circulation in this section. The obvious consequences are the very long heating of water during water intake and cold heated towel rails.
To learn more about how to remove air from a water supply system, the video in this article will help you.
Manual and automatic air vents
How to expel air from the water supply system after its discharge? The most logical solution is to bleed the air through an air vent installed directly on the lintel between the risers.
There you can find an air vent of one of two types:
| Picture | Description |
|
|
Manual (Mayevsky faucet) - a plug with a wrench twisting valve or a screwdriver. To eliminate the airing of the hot water supply system, it is enough to unscrew the valve a couple of turns, wait until the air coming out of the tap hole is replaced by water, and turn the valve back on. Sometimes it is necessary to bleed the air two or three times as the water displaces new air bubbles into the upper part of the circuit. |
|
|
An automatic air vent for water supply does the same without the need for the owner. When its chamber is filled with air, the float connected to the spool is lowered - after which the water pressure displaces the air lock. The floating float seals the spool hermetically. |
Useful: for self-installation of the jumper on the hot water supply, the Mayevsky tap can be replaced with a screw valve or a water tap. They are not so compact, but more convenient to use, since they open without the use of any tools.
The obvious advantage of the Mayevsky crane is its cheapness. That is why only manual air vents were used in Soviet-built houses.
However, from the point of view of ease of use, they are far behind automatic air vents:
- Some of the residents of the upper floors are simply afraid to use shut-off valves unfamiliar to them;
- Keys to Mayevsky's taps with complex valves are constantly lost;
- Excessive enthusiasm of residents, coupled with technical illiteracy, often lead to flooding of apartments. The fact is that a valve that has been completely screwed out (and even more so - the valve itself) is almost impossible to screw in under pressure. Especially when scalding hot water gushes out of the hole.
Without air vent
How to remove air from the water supply system with your own hands if you do not have access to the air vent or if it is faulty?
The instruction is ridiculously simple:
- Shut off one of the bridged DHW risers;
- Fully open one or two hot water taps in any apartment on this riser. After a very short time, the airlock will fly out at the front of the water flow, and the water going to the discharge will heat up;
- After all the air is gone, close the taps and open the valve on the riser.
A private house
Do you need an air vent in the domestic hot water system?
The answer is pretty obvious. An air vent is necessary if yours uses recirculation, and at its top there are no plumbing fixtures through which air can escape.
Note: the presence of a high-pressure circulation pump, coupled with a low circuit height, means that you can not be afraid of stopping circulation. However, the air in the DHW system is often the cause of annoying hydraulic noise.
Conclusion
As you can see, problems in the operation of the DHW system often have very simple solutions. To learn more about how to remove air from a water supply system, the video in this article will help you. Good luck!
