The reasons for the deterioration of the motor engine indicators can be different. However, among them you can allocate the reasons for most often.
The most likely reasons for worsening the acceleration of the car
1. The engine is faulty:
- The compression in the engine cylinders (or in one of the cylinders) has decreased;
- Excess air enters the engine intake path;
- The release system has been clocked.
2. Fleece of fuel supply system:
- The nozzles (for injection engines) were clogged;
- Clouded carburetor (for carburetor engine);
- The fuel filter clogged;
- Tubes or fuel hoses were clogged;
- The fuel pump is incorrect;
- Low-quality fuel is flooded.
3. Ignition system breakdown:
- Spark plugs failed;
- Breakdown in high-voltage wires;
- The moment of ignition is incorrectly installed (for the ZMZ-402 engine).
4. Passage of the engine control system (for injection engines):
- Required engine control sensors.
If the sensor refused, the block electronic control Introduces the backup program. In this case, you need to deliver the car to the nearest service or garage. The power of the engine, in which case decreases, and the fuel consumption increases.
5. Clutch fault:
- Clutch slip into a consequence of wear;
- Damage to the drive shutdown.
6. breakdown brake system:
- Incorrect manual brake work;
- I slow down one wheel (or several) while driving.
7. Insufficient (or excessive) tire pressure.
8. The machine is overloaded.
Competently to diagnose the car can exclusively highly qualified specialists in the presence of special equipment. Therefore, to identify the causes of the fault, it is better to contact the car service.
Works that can be conducted independently:
1. Check pressure in wheels. Reviving tire pressure to normal.
2. Checking the braking system and parking brakes.
You can check the brake system without removing the wheels. To do this, find a free, safe asphalt plot. Excoring your cars up to 50 km / h. After turn off the transmission and without pressing the brake, wait until the car stops myself. Repeat these actions again. So it is determined by the separation of the machine, ideally, it should be 500 m. When carrying out this test, the weather should be windless and dry, the car is fully refilled, not loaded, one driver is located in the car.
3. Checking the carburetor (for carburetor engines) and the ignition system.
Check the carburetor and the ignition system for the presence of faults described above.
4. Increase the ignition advance angle (for the ZMZ-402 engine).
In order to increase the magnitude of the ignition, you need:
weaken the bolt A; Rotate the distributor body on the scale b, one division. The movement should occur clockwise relative to the pointer V.
After the work performed, make a trial trip. After increasing the moment of ignition, with an intensive speed set, knockers may appear (metal knocks, ringing, more than 2 seconds). So the engine works with detonation, which is unacceptable. Ignition advance angle, in this case, you need to return to the initial value.
5. Checking the clutch.
To test the clutch operation, you will need a flat, asphalt surface.
Press the gas pedal, so that idling Were in the limit 1500, turn on the parking brake, press the clutch until it stops, put the first transmission. After, you smoothly start letting the clutch pedal. In the case when, the engine stalls - the clutch works correctly and does not raise. When the engine continues to work - the clutch was worn out and need to be changed. Adjust the clutch is manually impossible.
The reasons for the deterioration of the dynamics are many, basic can be defined so.
1. Engine malfunction: decreased compression in one or more cylinders, additional air seats in the intake path of the engine. Cocking the release system or damage to the exhaust gas neutralizer (if the car is equipped with a catalytic neutralizer).
2. Power system malfunction: clogging nozzles and fuel filter, fuel supply system hoses. Insufficient supply of fuel pump. The use of low-quality fuel.
3. Ignition system malfunction: the failure of the spark plug, the test of the high-voltage circuit system.
4. MOBILITY MODE MODE SYSTEM: Failure of system sensors. If any sensor fails the electronic unit The control goes to work on a backup program that allows you to get to the garage or car service, but the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.
5. Coupling slip due to wear or adjustment disorders.
6. Brake system malfunction: slow motion of one or more wheels while driving, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.
7. Insufficient air pressure in tires.
8. Car overload.
Complete diagnostics of the car should conduct highly qualified wizards using a special diagnostic equipment, so refer to the car service.
You can conduct the following works on your own.
1. Check and bring the air pressure to the tires.
2. Check the operation of the working brake system and parking brakes. Remove the wheels for this optional. Find a flat section of the road and in dry mad weather, spend check-in to the definition of the car's release. The car must be fully refilled, only the driver in the cabin. Expand the car up to 50 km / h, align the speed, and then turn off the transmission and move the inertia to the full stop. Perform another race in the opposite direction. Selecting should be about 500 m.
3. Check the operation of the ignition system as described above.
4. Check the clutch operation. The initial check is carried out on a flat, free from the platform. Install the accelerator pedal Increased rotational speed idle move - Approximately 1500 min-1. Turn the car parking brake. Squeeze the clutch and turn on the I transmission. Then start smoothly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls, the clutch is properly and does not raise. If the engine does not stall, the clutch is worn, it is necessary to replace it or adjust the drive (see.
Too much or too little air causes your engine to work on a slightly enriched or re-entered mix. For this reason, the engine loses power when you are trying to increase turns. The depressurization is the main reason for entering the air into the engine, after which the jamming in the open state of the air supply valve (control air valve).
Incorrect operation of the exhaust gas recirculation sensor will have about the same effect. The lack of air happens a little less often, because it means that something is bad or not opened. The scored, wet or oil-soaked filter or incorrect operation of the throttle is more often the causes of such a malfunction. Some engines, such as Ford Dohc Modular Motor, using double intake ports and collectors with a variable geometry, may have faults in the inlet control mechanism.
Fuel system problems
Too little fuel can make your engine work on a re-entered mixture, which slows down the combustion and reduces the output power as soon as the engine warms up. Excess fuel is unlikely until you open the fully fuel injector or the needle valve of the carburetor. Or are you faulty fuel pump high pressure or pressure regulator.
Reducing the fuel supply may occur due to clogged filters, a faulty pump or clogged injector screens. A faulty injector is one that does not open or open constantly. It will cause a pass in the cylinder. And this will subsequently cause a decrease in power and noticeable vibration of the engine at idle.
Faults of the ignition system
Though medium system Ignition may have a thousand different causes for faults, most of them relate to passing cylinders no more than a clean power loss. A defective or low-power ignition coil will produce a weak or intermittent discharge on all cylinders, and a worn, weakened or corrosion-eaten grounding tire will prevent the flow of energy to the coil.
Contaminated candles or damaged ceramic insulators on the candlelight will serve as a skipping and power loss. But the latter is unlikely, if you have not noticed a characteristic vibration, usually accompanying passages in the work of the cylinders (or, as they say when the engine "Troit").
Graduation system
Difficulties in the exhaust system are always manifested in the form of power loss, and in fact there are only two places where these difficulties can randomly occur. Craw or melted internal parts catalytic neutralizer As a traffic jam seal your exhaust system. The same effect can be rendered by corrosion of the inside of the silencer.
The melting of the catalyst is usually accompanied by the occurrence of the depleted air mixture mode, when excess fuel passing through the engine ends its burning in the catalyst. If your car has come down from the conveyor after 1995, then such a malfunction of the catalyst will be shown by the signing of the signal light "Check engine". Wherein on-board computer It will be transferred to the frightening "Limp Home" mode, which will allow you still getting time to get to the repairs.
Open Loop mode
Any type of sensor malfunctions, engine detonation, knock, detail fault exhaust system and constant deviations in the composition fuel mixes Enable your computer run safe mode. Most computers have two secure regimes. The first one is "Open-Loop". It was originally a setup reset program using less aggressive fuel, and the ignition timing settings for engine prevention from self-destruction after the sensor fails. The computer without receiving the appropriate input data uses its preliminary settings to compensate for the missing sensor readings, and the loss of power here is an inevitable result.
LIMP HOME mode
This mode of preserving the exhaust system makes your car almost uncontrollable in the event of a catalyst failure or something else associated with the engine. Power will fall significantly, the transmission may not be switched to increased transmissions, and the computer can reduce the engine speed limit and the highest permitted vehicle speed up to 90 km / h.
The reasons for the deterioration of the dynamics are many, basic can be defined so.
1. Engine malfunction is a decrease in compression in one or more cylinders, additional air sublicas in the intake path of the engine. Cocking the release system.
2. Fault power system - clogging of the nozzles and fuel filter, fuel supply system hoses. Insufficient supply of fuel pump. The use of low-quality fuel.
3. Ignition system malfunction is the failure of the spark plug, the test of the high-voltage circuit system.
4. The engine control system malfunction is the failure of the system sensors. If any sensor fails, the electronic control unit goes to work on a backup program that allows you to get to the garage or car service, but the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.
5. Coupling slip due to wear or adjustment disorders.
6. The brake system malfunction is to slow down one or more wheels while driving, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.
7. Insufficient air pressure in tires.
8. Car overload.
Complete diagnostics of the car should conduct highly qualified wizards using special diagnostic equipment, so refer to the car service. You can conduct the following work independently:
1. Check and bring the air pressure to the tires.
2. Check the operation of the working brake system and parking brakes. Remove the wheels for this optional. Find a flat section of the road and in dry mad weather, spend check-in to the definition of the car's release. The car must be fully refilled, only the driver in the cabin. Expand the car up to 50 km / h, align the speed, and then turn off the transmission and move the inertia to the full stop. Perform another race in the opposite direction. Selecting should be about 500 m.
3. Check the operation of the ignition system as described above.
4. Check the clutch operation. The initial check is carried out on a flat, free from the platform. Install the accelerator pedal an increased idle speed (approximately 1500 min-1). Turn the car in the parking brake. Review the clutch and turn on the first gear. Then start smoothly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls, the clutch is properly and does not raise. If the engine does not stall, the clutch is worn and requires replacement ( manual adjustment The clutch in operation is not provided, the wear is compensated by automatically by the device in the working cylinder of the hydraulic line).
Most likely, the motor node is faulty in the vehicle, covered fuel system or ignition system. Also, problems can be with the mechanics of your car. To find out the true causes of the non-defense speed of the car, you need to find out on which car you ride: carburetor or injection. The first and second type of machines differ from each other, so signs and options for this problem can be different. Let's start with carburetor vehicles.
If you notice that your car is tupit when accelerated and does not at all type the speed or dials it, but very slowly, check the carburetor of the CU for performance. Perhaps the reason for this is its malfunction. We advise you to open the cover of this main element of the car and clean it with a sprayer filled with a special tool. Everyone is splashing there and leave to fifteen minutes. You can additionally wash the device with a rag moistened with gasoline. Perhaps it is worth checking and the fuel pump, he may have a mesh clouded, so the car and tupit during acceleration. In this case, clean it or replace it with a new one.
Here you exploit your injector vehicleAnd do not understand why the car does not pick up speed. When driving, notice jerk and dull reaction to acceleration - this may be associated with insufficient fuel pressure. And maybe the air flow sensors or throttle valves are in the wrong position.
To identify the reason for a bad speed overclocking, you need to send a car to the diagnosis. Wizards on special equipment will check your vehicles and find out why he "Barrachlit". Often, injection cars suffer from the fact that the ignition system comes out. If you are suspicious, you need to check this node, speaking computer diagnostic. It may happen that trouble will find you on the road, then you will be able to check the contacts with wires on the ignition coils.
It is worth starting the engine by opening the hood and listen, how it works, there is no extraneous sounds. With a breakdown, you can hear the crash of electricity and even see the sparks. In such a situation, you should urgently take the car to the nearest one hundred.
Going down on your car, the driver may notice that the power of the power unit has decreased significantly. It will be visible and on the behavior of the TC itself, it will be badly gaining overclocking and very little to go under the slide. We have already told about why the car does not gain speed and that in such a situation you need to do. Also, they mentioned that the car could be blended when driving because of the motor breakdown. The case is when force aggregate Loses power, the machine begins to work not stably and slowly gain speed.
You can find out whether the engine broke down on the following signs:
- the exhaust sound of the motor will change;
- feel shocking the installation;
- a total of fuel consumption will increase;
- turns will be much lower than the indicators;
- remove jerk and stupidity when overclocking.
If you identify all the above problems, it means that it is time to carry out the engine repair, and the earlier, the better.
