In Lada Kalina, as in other cars, there are many parts that, over time, either lose their properties or fail. Filters get dirty, erased brake pads, the response time of the devices increases. Setting them up does not always require the intervention of the service station, the owner is able to solve some of the problems himself, for example, adjust the handbrake. Its adjustment is often required: they want to tighten or loosen the handbrake.
- 1 Where is
- 2 How to check the handbrake on Lada Kalina
- 3 What if you replace it?
- 4 Handbrake adjustment tool
- 5 How to tighten
- 6 If you need to release the brake
- 7 How to tighten or loosen on a station wagon and a hatchback
- 8 If it doesn't help
Where is
The handbrake consists of a pair of cables and a tuning block, which is level rear seat under the bottom of the vehicle. It is better to use a pit for adjustment, but you can use a flyover.
Often it is because of design features Lada Kalina, the handbrake weakens and it becomes necessary to pull the cable
How to check the handbrake on Lada Kalina
Checking the performance of the parking brake is simple. Having driven on a slope of 20 degrees or more, they try to tighten it. It is considered normal when 2-4 clicks are enough to hold the machine in place. If the number reaches 6–8, then the brake cables are stretched, less than 4 - perhaps the mechanism should be loosened.
The handbrake directly controls the rear brake pads. If they are worn out, then even with normal adjustment, it will not work to keep the car in place.
And if you replace it?
Change or adjust - only you can decide. But the replacement will cost some amount, while setting the handbrake yourself is quite simple and quick.
Since you will have to work under the car, you will need a viewing hole or overpass. It is preferable to work in a pit.
Handbrake adjustment tool
- key for 13, 2 pieces;
- key for 10, 1 piece (better than a ring key);
- extension key;
- spray can with WD-40.
Spare parts are not needed for adjustment yet.
How to tighten
Protective cover
It is this pair of nuts that controls the tension of the parking brake cables
The block can be skewed, and less clicks are needed for one wheel - this is not critical.
The studs on which the casing is attached are rather weak, therefore, do not apply special efforts when tightening the nuts.
Lifting video
If you need to release the brake
If less than 4 clicks are enough for a complete lock, the cables are hand brake overtightened. In this case, you need to let them go a little. This is adjusted in the same way as when tensioning, except that the nut will have to be turned in the other direction, so there is no point in dwelling on this issue. Also, you may first need to work with the external, not the internal.
How to tighten or loosen on a station wagon and hatchback
The shoe brake system was developed even before Kalina and is still used on all new AvtoVAZ models, so there is no difference in adjustment between the versions of the car body. Similarly, the work on Kalina-1 and Kalina-2 does not differ.
If it doesn't help
Usually, a slight twisting of the inner nut on the shoe lasts for a long time, but if you set 4 clicks, and then after checking, made sure that this is still not enough, you should think about replacing the brake pads. Such a replacement is a slightly more complicated operation, therefore, insecure novice car enthusiasts should contact a service station. For the more experienced, replacing labor will also not be.
The handbrake on the car is a lever to the right of the driver, which additionally fixes the car in a long parking lot. Over time, it loosens, and for a firm fixation it is necessary to tighten it more. At the same time, even a novice car enthusiast can adjust it independently.
The parking brake system is designed to prevent the spontaneous movement of the vehicle while stationary.
The parking brake lever is connected with the brakes by two cables rear wheels... When the lever is raised to the upper position, the levers installed on the rear shoes turn and begin to press on the spacers. In this case, the pads of the rear brake mechanisms move apart and fix the drum from turning.
Parking brake system: 1 - parking brake lever; 2 - lever pull; 3 - drive cable brake mechanism right rear wheel; 4 - washer; 5 - adjusting nut; 6 - lock nut; 7 - cable for driving the brake mechanism of the left rear wheel; 8 - spacer bar; 9 - lever; 10 - cable equalizer; eleven - rubber cover; 12 - thrust axis
ADJUSTING THE HANDBRAKE
Parking brake lever travel should be 2-4 clicks. During the operation of the car, it is allowed to increase the lever travel up to eight clicks.
If the lever travel is six or more clicks, adjust the parking brake actuator.
To complete the work, you will need an inspection pit or overpass.
Sequence of execution
1. We prepare the car for the job.
2. Raise the parking brake lever up to the stop, determining the amount of its travel. If it is less than 2 clicks, it is necessary to lengthen the drive, and if more 6 clicks - shorten.
3. Lower the parking brake lever completely.
4 ... Remove the pillows from the brackets of the additional muffler 1. Using a socket wrench, unscrew the four nuts 2 for securing the protective screen.
5. Pulling back additional muffler from the bottom of the car, we put a wooden block under the muffler pipe. We extract protective shield.
6. While holding the adjusting nut from turning with a 13 mm open-end wrench, loosen the lock nut with a 13 mm open-end wrench.
7. Loosening the adjusting nut lengthens the drive, tightening it shortens it.
8. Periodically, during the adjustment process, we check the lever stroke.
Note
If the length of the threaded part of the thrust is not enough to adjust the lever stroke, it is necessary to replace the drive cables, and in case of severe wear of the linings and brake pads.
9. After adjusting the parking brake lever, we hang the rear of the car. We check the ease of rotation of the rear wheels and the reliability of their fixation with the parking brake.
10. If the brake pads do not interfere with the rotation of the wheels, fix the adjusting nut with a locknut. We install the protective screen in place.
11. We check the performance of the parking brake system: on an incline of 23%, it must hold the vehicle securely in stationary... If necessary, check the condition of the parking brake drive parts, the condition of the rear brake pads and brake drums. We replace defective and worn parts. Then we repeat the adjustment.
Some drivers, in an effort to reduce the wear on the parking brake cable, try to use it less often.
Such "economy" leads to a bad result: the cable, rarely moving in the shell, gradually loses its mobility and eventually gets jammed and breaks. Use the parking brake whenever necessary.
If the parking brake lever does not lock in the selected position, first check the pawl spring. If the spring is good, replace the lever.
1. Unscrew the button from the lever
2. Remove the pawl spring. Replace defective spring
You will need: two keys "for 13", a socket wrench (head) "for 13", a screwdriver with cruciform blade, pliers.
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
2. Remove the floor tunnel liner.
3. From the bottom of the car with a key "13" unscrew the lock nut and the parking brake adjusting nut and remove the equalizer 1 from the rod 2.
4. Remove the protective cover from the floor opening and remove it from the tie rod.
5. From inside the passenger compartment, remove the screw of the front fastening of the bracket for the parking brake switch.
Note that the ground wire of the switch is fixed with a screw.
6. Using a “10” wrench, unscrew the four parking brake lever fastening bolts (two front ones also fasten the switch bracket).
7. Set the switch bracket aside.
8. Remove the parking brake lever by pulling the link out of the hole in the floor.
To be honest, a “handbrake” or a handbrake is not really needed in the city, especially if you have a car on the machine and you are there. And on the mechanics, mostly the drivers put the car in gear. Why? Yes, everything is simple - our climate is harsh, and therefore if you put the parking brake in the winter, you can get into an unpleasant situation - they will simply freeze to the rear drum brakes... However, as the traffic rules teach us, you need to set it in order to avoid emergency situations, for example, you left the car in neutral, forgot to put the handbrake - GONE, and it rolled. Here and not far from the accident! Therefore, when passing MOT, this braking element is necessarily checked, if it does not work (does not hold) then you will not pass the technical inspection. But why is this happening, what are the reasons? Let's figure it out ...
A handbrake or a handbrake is just a scourge on our VAZs. Very often it turns out that you lift the handle of this brake, but nothing happens - that is, the car rolls.
When passing technical inspection there is a golden rule:
If the car gets up after three clicks, it means that the hand brake works, you can issue the coveted ticket. But if it does not hold well at 4 or more clicks, then the performance is at a low level, or it does not exist at all!
Defective cars are sent to be repaired or to tighten the handbrake, without it in any way.
How do they work?
The scheme of work is banal and simple - there is a handle, which is connected to a cable, which, in turn, is in a special sheath (that is, the cable walks in it). Then this cable hooks on a special adjusting bolt (it can be tightened and loosened), which is in engagement with the bar, along the edges of which there are two more cables going to the two rear wheels. And already these cables (extending to the wheels) are in engagement with a special bracket, it is she who opens the pads and blocks the drums.
I.e in simple wordswhen you move the handle up (lift the handbrake), the cable is pulled and pulls two separate cables to the wheels. Inside the drums, the brackets are unclenched, which spread the rear pads, so that the wheels are blocked.
We watch a short video, it will become clearer.
Hydraulics or mechanics
It should be noted that at the moment, not all rear brakes are cable or mechanical, now there are a fairly large number of handbrakes that work on hydraulics, this is especially true for. In hydraulics, the work of the main braking system is duplicated.
That is, when you lift the handle, a special piston creates pressure on the rear discs and they are blocked. If the handbrake does not work in such a system, then the reasons are significantly different from the mechanical counterpart.
Reasons why the hand brake does not work
Often the reasons are trivial, and the work actually lasts 10 minutes (more on that later), and now I will list the main points:
- Rear brake pad wear ... Usually accompanied by a grinding noise when braking. Pull up here, don't pull the cable, nothing will work. First you need to replace the pads, preferably on both wheels at once, because they wear out evenly.
- Incorrectly adjusted parking brake ... It also happens that the adjusting bolt is simply loosened - you need to tighten it.
- Sheathed Rope Wedge ... This often happens from time to time, and often appears on 5 year old or more "older" cars. The fact is that moisture gets between the shell and the cable itself, after which rust and the cable wedge in the shell. There are two ways here, either lubricate it and develop it so that it runs normally. Or it is worth replacing the cables with new ones.
- Broken cable ... Sometimes the cable breaks, both from the handle itself and under the machine, you need to replace it.
- Ice or salt, reagents on pad surfaces ... It happens rarely, but it happens, especially after passing deep puddles. It is worth cleaning the pads with light pressure when driving over short distances. All plaque should be cleared.
- Oil contamination or brake fluid on the pads ... For example, a slave cylinder has leaked, the rear axle shaft seal may be leaking. Here you need to first remove the cause of the leak, then clean the pads. Of course they will clear themselves after several braking cycles. If the "oiling" is strong, then you need to replace the pads with new ones, because - the surface of the linings can be completely saturated with oil.
I know from experience that these are mainly the first four reasons. For example, on our VAZ, very often from time to time the cable in the shell rusts, or it tears, well, you need to tighten it on time.
How much does it cost to tighten the handbrake and can you do it yourself?
Actually the question is rhetorical, as you understand in different regions, the cost can range from 200 to 1000 rubles. For example, in the capital, the price is often 500 - 1000, but in the regions it is possible to raise it for 250 rubles.
And to be honest, the work itself is literally for a few minutes, the main thing is to find a hole or a lift, a key for 10 and ahead. It is necessary to tighten the middle bolt, the one in the middle, it is the parking brake, tighten the nut and thereby tighten the cables.
Of course, if they are rusted or torn, then everything is much more complicated, it is better to trust the master, because replacing the cables from the rear drums is not at all easy.
That's all, read our AUTOBLOG, I think cleared up the situation.
4 years ago
Welcome!
Over time, the handbrake cable is pulled out and there comes a point when it simply cannot hold the brake pads at the back.
This cable runs from the parking brake underneath to the rear brake pads to which it is attached. By lifting the handbrake up, you set the rear pads in motion, in contact with the walls brake drumhence friction occurs. The pads are firmly pressed against the drum, preventing it from moving, limiting the movement of the back of the wheels. When the cable is loosened, the brake pads are not attracted to the drum, friction is carried out with less force, which means that the hand brake keeps the car worse and worse every time.
Note!
To adjust the parking brake cable, you need the following tools: a knob with a flip head, a flare head extension, a basic set of wrenches, a lubricant like WD-40.
Summary:
Rope location
On classic cars VAZ 2106, 2107, etc. two cables were put, but the rear one was a single whole and went immediately to both rear wheels. In Kalina, it is a little different, here each cable leads to a separate rear wheel (indicated by a red arrow on the diagram), are aligned due to an equalizing bar (blue arrow). By adjusting this bar, you will adjust the handbrake.
When to regulate?
In case of strong pulling, wear rear pads... A high-quality cable lasts much longer and stretches to a shorter length.
Have you ever paid attention to how many clicks does the hand brake make during lifting? A stretched handbrake must be performed in the region of 2-4 clicks, and in everyday driving, when the cable has already stretched out a little 2-8 clicks, no more. If the specified amount is exceeded, immediately adjust the cable, otherwise the handbrake will no longer keep the car stationary.
Adjusting the cable on the VAZ 1117-1119
- First, drive the car onto inspection pit and unscrew the four nuts (numbered in the photo below) securing the metal casing. Move it to the front of the car. Don't be afraid to get into your car, the main thing is to avoid brute force.
Note!
This casing protects the parking brake mechanism from salt and water particles, which quickly deform it and render it unusable. Located in the front of the machine, just above the muffler, almost next to the engine.
Dirt and water get on the bottom of the car, over time, the nuts, bolts sour and rust, which means it becomes very difficult to unscrew them. By using force, you are more likely to break off studs or rip off edges on nuts. WD-40 grease will come to the rescue: apply it on the nuts, especially on the threaded part of the studs, then let the grease feed a little and carefully unscrew all four pieces.
- Now we move the cover forward until you see the parking brake mechanism (shown in the photo below). We recommend removing the muffler from the side cushion, this will facilitate the sliding of the casing.
Note!
Be careful with the muffler: if the engine is warm or just at its operating temperature, you could burn yourself.
- Take a wrench in your hands and loosen the two nuts: turn one clockwise and the other counterclockwise, they disengage and continue to spin. Then turn the adjusting nut (indicated by the red arrow). If you need to tighten the handbrake, then tighten the nut so that it moves the equalizing bar (indicated by the blue arrow). Loosen the handbrake - unscrew the adjusting nut.
Note!
After hearing 2-4 clicks of the parking brake, finish the job. Be sure to lock both nuts together, do not touch the adjusting nut, just use a wrench to tighten the counter nut to it (indicated by the green arrow in the photo above).
Additional video clip:
For more information on adjusting the handbrake, see the video:
