Opel Insignia got to us for diagnostics. Driver complaint - CHECK ENGINE lit up. At the same time, the engine runs smoothly, the car drives normally. We connect the device - it gives error P0328 "High voltage of the knock sensor".
By analogy with Skoda, we can assume that we are talking about a broken wiring, but, as it turns out, the problem is different.
The first thought is that the knock sensor itself is faulty. But where does the high voltage come from then? The manual suggests checking the volts on both wires of the sensor connector.
There should be 1-2 V and 2.5-3.5 V, respectively, with the ignition on. This is clear, but where is the knock sensor itself installed?
And here is the answer: on the back of the cylinder block, between the starter and alternator!
Let's start measuring the voltage. We are trying to unfasten the connector from above, but in the process we understand: "someone has already been here!" The cable harness is not secured, it just dangles in the air. An excellent reason to ask a client, because it is obvious that something was done with the car before it was delivered to our service.
High-quality diagnostics is the key to peace of mind
The client was a cheerful woman; she told the story of car repair, which was more like a heartbreaking thriller. It started with CHECK ENGINE blinking on the fly. On diagnostics in a nearby garage, the would-be masters "sentenced" spark plugs. The counter is running - the candles are original, minus 2000 rubles. from the wallet.
After replacing the candles, the alarm icon on the panel did not go out, and the engine continued to work intermittently. The car was taken to a more advanced service, where the "specialists" found a problem in the ignition module. The owner buys the original spare part again. Minus 5000r. But the fault does not go away.
Long research led the masters to the idea that the engine needs to be sorted out. Allegedly, the piston can burn out. This is not uncommon for Opel turbo engines. But before us is the usual aspirated volume of 1.8 liters. Mileage on the odometer is only 20,000 km. Piston burnout? Hard to believe. But the "engine" still sorted out - for 50,000 rubles.
The engine ran smoothly, but the ominous CHECK ENGINE icon remained on.
As a result of in-depth diagnostics, it was concluded that it would be nice to change the knock sensor - they say, the error clearly indicates a malfunction in this circuit. The original knock sensor costs 3000 rubles. Note that all amounts are approximate and DO NOT INCLUDE the cost of diagnostics.
By the fact that the car was brought to us, you can guess: replacing the knock sensor did not help. After such an exciting story, we could not remain indifferent and agreed on another standard hour for diagnostics.
Finding out the error on the car dashboard
Following the manual, we checked the voltage at the knock sensor connector. Comes out 0 and 5 V on two wires. Far from normal values. It's time to print the engine wiring diagrams.
The connector should receive wires of black-yellow and purple-gray colors. What do we have?
Although the chip is fully dressed, the wires are connected in the wrong colors. To the right of the chip, another two-pin connector is visible - for the generator. The first thought - were they confused?
Referring again to the circuits - this time to the generator circuits. Everything is in order here: there is a chip with the correct wires in gray and brown. For the sake of interest, we changed the connectors in places - they snap into place! Confusing is easy! Now it remains to understand: what happened to the wires to the knock sensor? Indeed, according to the scheme, they should be of a different color. Maybe the schema is wrong?
We remove the connectors on the engine control unit. We see that the wires are of the correct colors - black-yellow and violet-gray. Here's a riddle - they can't change color on the way!
The solution turned out to be simple: another sensor was hidden behind the drive shaft.
This is the oil level sensor. And also with a two-pin connector. This is the very connector that should be on the knock sensor.
Thank you, Opel! You have to think of it in one place to collect three sensors with the same connectors. Ignorance or inattention of "specialists" led to huge financial expenses of the car owner. For the replacement of serviceable parts, 60,000 rubles had to be paid.
The hostess left us money only for an hour and a half of diagnostics. I didn't have to change anything. This is the main quality of a good diagnostician - the ability to thoroughly check everything that is possible, and only then advise repairs. Order diagnostics only from professionals - so it comes out much cheaper!
If the Check engine indicator light on the dashboard of your car lights up (or simply the "check" is on), you should at least be alert. The reasons for this can be very varied - from a loose gas cap to serious engine problems.
What does the Check engine indicator mean
The name of the Check engine indicator literally translates as "Check the engine". However, the engine, when the light comes on or flashes, may have nothing to do with it. A lit indicator may indicate problems in the fuel supply system, failure of individual ignition elements, etc.
Sometimes this can be a very minor problem - for example, a loose fuel cap or a catalyst malfunction. Nevertheless, it is impossible to ignore the indicator signals in any case, as this can result in serious problems.
Sometimes bad fuel quality can be the reason for the indicator to light up. So do not be surprised if, after refueling at an unfamiliar gas station, you see the Check engine light flashing.
Usually the indicator is located on the dashboard of the car under the engine speed indicator. It is indicated by a schematic engine or a rectangle labeled Check engine or simply Check. In some cases, instead of an inscription, a lightning symbol is depicted.
Is it possible to continue driving when the light is on
The brake pads are worn out, the time has come for the next maintenance, the speed is incorrectly switched, the fuel is of poor quality, the voltage of the on-board network has dropped - all this can become a reason for the Check indicator to light up. First of all, you should check the motor. If the alarm is caused by engine faults, it is dangerous to continue driving.
The problem is aggravated by the fact that it is impossible to independently determine the malfunction of a modern internal combustion engine by smell or color. You should contact a professional who, using a scanner, will identify a malfunction, if, of course, there is one.
A burning Check light may indicate various breakdowns - it is better not to ignore it
Therefore, if after restarting the car, the light does not go out, you can only drive to the nearest car service. They will conduct a comprehensive diagnosis of the engine and its systems.
Operating a car with a lit Check engine icon leads to increased fuel consumption, unstable engine operation, and a decrease in traction characteristics of the car. Moreover, in this case, the car owner may lose the car repair warranty.
Why the light bulb came on and how to fix it
The main situations in which the indicator lights up, and the recommended options for the motorist's actions:
- If the Check engine lights up when the car is started and immediately goes out, there is no damage to the engine. The reason for the fire is most likely harmless - the loss of the fuel tank cap or not twisting it. It is enough to wrap it tightly and check if the warning has disappeared.
- If the indicator lights up while driving, stop and check the wires. You may find a cable free hanging under the hood or an open battery terminal. This applies to all attachments - wires, hoses, etc.
- If the lamp flashes while driving, stop and check the sounds made by the engine, pay attention to the oil level, inspect the side parts of the engine. If no visually obvious violations are found, it is recommended to drive to the nearest car service and carry out diagnostics.
- If the engine is running normally and the Check light is flashing continuously, it is most likely an ignition failure. You should check the candles and the coil, pay attention to the quality of the fuel. To do this, it is better to contact the nearest autodiagnostic center.
- If the indicator is on constantly, you need to stop, unscrew the candles and check the gap. Gaps that exceed 1.3 may cause the light bulb to come on.
- In addition, when the "check" is lit, the ignition is usually checked. In any car service there are special testers that allow you to determine the deterioration of the insulation of the wiring.
- A faulty fuel pump can also cause the light bulb to come on. You should stop and listen to the sounds from the gas pump. Smooth humming without clicks and pauses is considered normal. If extraneous sounds appear, the pump should be dismantled, rinsed from the inside and the filter should be cleaned.
- A serious engine malfunction may be indicated by the coolant temperature. If it is higher than 85–90 degrees, and the Check engine lights up when driving, the engine is definitely faulty. In this case, it is advisable to call a tow truck or drive at low speed to the nearest car service.
We have already noted that Check lights up yellow or orange every time the engine is started. It is normal for the blinking to last no more than 3-4 seconds and stop along with the blinking of other dashboard lights. Otherwise, follow the recommended steps above.
Video: Check sensor lights up
https://www.youtube.com/embed/uqdKfKX4MlE
Table: Causes of the Check Engine Light to Come On and Suggested Actions
| When and in what cases the "check" is lit | Possible reasons | Suggested action |
| When driving, when accelerating | Rapid acceleration, faulty air filter | Change the filter, accelerate more smoothly |
| When the indicator blinks, the engine trips | Fuel in one of the cylinders does not burn completely, gasoline either burns out in the exhaust pipe, or immediately enters the catalyst | Replace candles, check coil and armored wires, check timing marks |
| After refueling | Poor fuel quality | Change gas station |
| When the ignition is turned on | Normal vehicle response | Shouldn't do anything |
| After washing the car, engine, after rain | Water has entered the Check engine wiring | Treat WD40, dry, clean contacts |
| On a cold engine | Knock sensor defective | Replace |
| On a hot engine | Faulty camshaft sensor | Replace |
| At high revs | Missing ignition coils or faulty crankshaft sensor | Replace coil or sensor |
| Idle | Throttle sensor malfunction | Replace |
| After replacing candles | "Lean" combustible mixture | Change the octane number of gasoline to a higher one |
| After replacing the air filter | More air began to flow, the composition of the exhaust changed, the lambda probe reacted | Stop the engine, start again |
| After replacing the timing belt | A terminal has jumped off a sensor, most likely D. of the air hose | Check terminals |
| After installing gas equipment | The petrol injector emulation is done incorrectly | Tune |
| After setting the alarm | Only one power line is connected to the turbo timer, the temperature sensor, brake pedals and mass air flow sensor hang on the second | Reset Check engine, connect both lines |
| After replacing the fuel filter | Low pressure filter installed | Change filter |
| While increasing fuel consumption | Driving too long, heating the oxygen tank, or poor quality fuel | Refuel with quality fuel, let the car rest |
| With long climbs | Timing belt wear, sensor malfunction | Check and replace |
| After replacing the ignition module | Module connection problems | Remove and replace the positive terminal from the battery |
| At subzero temperatures | Throttle position sensor defective or disconnected | Replace the device or install the chip in place |
| When you press the accelerator pedal | Clogged air filter | Clean or replace filter |
Resetting or zeroing the Check indicator
In most cases, as the table shows, Check lights up when a sensor fails or changes in vehicle operating conditions. However, even after diagnosing and eliminating the malfunction, the light sometimes remains on.
The point is that the "trace" of the error remains in the computer's memory. In this case, you should "reset" or "zero" the indicator readings. This can be easily done on your own by performing a number of simple operations:
The sensor is zeroed and the Check light is no longer lit. If this does not happen, contact the service center.
When the Check engine light on the dashboard comes on, it almost always requires the vehicle to stop immediately. Practical use of the recommendations given in the article will help you to avoid complex and expensive engine repairs. Good luck on the road!
Many of us have faced such a problem as the inclusion of an indication of the engine icon (Check engine ...), the appearance of which scares car drivers. Here are the 5 most common reasons why an engine check comes on on the dashboard.
The engine gauge icon usually appears without warning. The reason for the appearance of the Check engine cannot be immediately understood. Even if there is auto diagnostics in the car (for example, in such cars as,), which scans all systems of the car for errors and, if any, displays a decryption on the information panel, the reasons for the appearance of the engine check will not be decrypted.
For most drivers, the appearance of this warning icon on the instrument panel means that they urgently need to go to a car workshop to diagnose and eliminate the reason for which the engine check warning sign appeared. But in fact, in most cases, when the "Check" indication appears, it is possible, and in some cases, perhaps, to eliminate the cause on your own without a trip to a car service, which will save your money.
1. Replace the oxygen sensor (lambda probe)
The oxygen sensor in your car is part of the exhaust gas system that monitors how much oxygen is not burned out in the engine's combustion chamber. This sensor helps to monitor the fuel consumption of the vehicle. A malfunctioning oxygen sensor (lambda probe) means that the car computer receives incorrect data, which can significantly increase fuel consumption and reduce engine power. Most cars have 2 to 4 oxygen sensors. If you have a home car error scanner, then by connecting it to the car, you can easily find out which sensor needs to be replaced.
For what reason the oxygen sensor in the car becomes unusable: Over time, the sensor becomes covered with a layer of used and engine oil (oily soot), which reduces the accuracy of the sensor readings to regulate the gasoline mixture and distribute the optimal one. A malfunction of the oxygen sensor in the car leads not only to, but also to an increased content of harmful substances CO2 in the exhaust.
What needs to be done: If you do not replace a faulty car oxygen sensor, then this can lead to the failure of your car's catalyst (may burst), which will result in expensive repairs. The cost of new catalysts is very high due to the content of precious alloys in them. On some cars, there are several catalysts, the cost of which can go up to 90,000 rubles. So do not delay replacing the sensor. Although the replacement of the sensor and its cost is not very small, it is incommensurate with the cost of the exhaust gas neutralizer system. You can also save on replacement costs by doing it yourself. Many car manuals have detailed instructions on how to replace the oxygen sensor yourself. If you know where the oxygen sensor is, then it will not be difficult for you to disconnect the faulty "lambda probe" and replace it with a new one. Remember that you cannot pull to replace this important element!
2. Check the fuel filler cap
Many drivers in most cases, when the "check engine" indication appears, will think about serious problems in the car's engine, but will not even think to check the tightness of the fuel system, which can be broken due to a defect or insufficiently tightened fuel filler cap. This is a very common cause of the "Check" engine icon.
The reason for the error: Leakage of the fuel system due to the passage of air, the filler cap of the fuel tank, will increase the fuel consumption of the car, for which the car diagnostic system will give an engine error by turning on the "Check engine" indication on the dashboard of the car.
What needs to be done: If, when the "Check" indication appears, your car has not lost power, and there are no sound signs of engine damage (knocking in the engine, hum, creaking, etc.), then first of all check the tightness of the gas tank. Your gas cap may be cracked or not tight enough. If the cover was not tight enough, then after tightening it all the way, continue driving the car for a while to see if the engine error disappears. To prevent an engine check from appearing for this reason, regularly check the fuel filler cap. Remember that periodically the cover must be replaced with a new one!
3. Car exhaust gas catalyst
A car catalyst helps the car to make the engine exhaust gas cleaner. It converts carbon monoxide and other harmful substances into harmless compounds. If your exhaust gas catalyst has become unusable, you will notice this not only when the engine badge (check) appears, but also long before that, when the car's power drops by 2 times. For example, when you press the gas pedal, the car, as before, will not have good acceleration dynamics.
Because of what the automobile catalyst can fail: if you regularly service your car, in accordance with the maintenance regulations of the car company, then the catalyst should not fail. The main reason for the failure of the catalyst is the untimely replacement of a faulty oxygen sensor, as well as irregular replacement of spark plugs at the end of the expiration date. When the oxygen sensor or spark plugs are faulty, the conversion of carbon monoxide in the catalyst into harmless chemical elements stops, which leads to overheating of the catalyst, which can be damaged as a result.
What needs to be done: If your catalyst has become unusable, then you cannot drive the car, since the engine will not work correctly, warning about this by the indication on the dashboard with the engine icon (check). Also, your fuel consumption will be greatly increased, and there will be no engine thrust. Although replacing a catalyst is a very expensive repair, there is nowhere to go from repairs. Although there is an alternative to replacing the catalyst with a flame arrester, this is not a 100 percent option. Unfortunately, if you are not an experienced auto mechanic, then you cannot replace a faulty exhaust gas catalyst yourself. In any case, you will have to go to a car repair shop. Remember that timely replacement of oxygen sensors and spark plugs protects your catalytic converter from damage!
4. Replace MAF sensor
The mass air flow sensor regulates how much air must be added to the gasoline mixture for optimal fuel ignition. The sensor continuously informs the vehicle computer of the amount of oxygen supplied. A defective MAF sensor increases fuel consumption, increases CO2 levels in the exhaust gas, and decreases engine power and ride comfort. Also, with a faulty sensor, poor acceleration dynamics is observed. In cold weather, a car with a faulty sensor will not start well.
What are the reasons for the failure of the mass air flow sensor: Most sensor failures occur due to improper installation of the air filter during its scheduled replacement. Also, if you do not regularly change the air filter, as required by the vehicle maintenance schedule recommended by the manufacturer, the MAF sensor may fail.
What needs to be done: In theory, you can drive for a long time with a broken MAF sensor (several weeks or months). But you will notice that the longer you drive, the more fuel consumption increases. Replacing a sensor in a car service is not that expensive, since the work itself does not take much time and is quite simple. The main costs are related to the cost of the sensor, which for some car models can be 11,000-14,000 rubles if it is an original sensor or up to 6000 rubles if it is an analog substitute. Replacing the sensor yourself is very easy. But due to the low cost of replacing the sensor, you can entrust this work to the master in the car service. Remember that you need to regularly change the air filter, observing the vehicle maintenance regulations!
5. Replacing spark plugs and high voltage wires
Spark plugs in a car are the main parts for igniting the fuel mixture. With faulty spark plugs, the spark is incorrectly supplied to ignite the gasoline mixture. In faulty spark plugs, there is often a lack of spark or an incorrect spark interval, which affects engine malfunction. If the lights do not work properly during acceleration, especially from a standstill, you may feel small jolts.
What are the reasons for the failure of spark plugs: Most spark plugs in vehicles prior to 1996 need to be replaced every 25,000-30,000 kilometers... In newer cars, spark plugs last over 150,000 km. However, these spark plug replacement times can be reduced due to various factors related to fuel quality and driving style.
What needs to be done: If your spark plugs have not changed for a long time, or you feel dips associated with ignition in the engine, then you must immediately replace them with new ones without delay. Do not try to save money on untimely replacement of spark plugs, as the cost of spark plugs is not very expensive, as is the work of replacing them. Replacing old spark plugs will improve engine performance and reduce vehicle fuel consumption. Replacing spark plugs yourself is easy enough. Mostly they are easily accessible under the hood of the car. You need a regular spark plug wrench to remove the spark plugs from the engine. It is also advisable to monitor the condition of high-voltage wires, since over time they can become unusable and allow electricity to pass through to the spark plugs, which will reduce the force of the spark. Remember that regular replacement of spark plugs, in accordance with your car's maintenance schedule, keeps your exhaust catalyst from damage, and also improves engine performance!
Hello everyone, this error P1101, on other cars without a turbine, arises from not passing the catalyst when it slowly clogs up.
On the turbocharger, due to the filter at the inlet, the catalyst, and as the master said, dirt sticking to the valves on the bypass valve, which switches the air flow to the XX long manifold of medium and power loads is short.
What a dependence on gasoline, direct !!! In Russia, the old guest of gasoline has not yet been canceled, and so I will divide the gasoline in two so that it is clear which one can pour, this is the euro, which cannot be AI-95.
Let's start with the old gost, he thinks about pure gasoline, + condensate, octano boosters, iron oxide, manganese oxide, sulfur, or gel like on TNK, which he himself personally poured out of the gasoline rexton ramp.
The new GOST, which was introduced a long time ago, is pure gasoline, octane boosters, ethers saturation with which is carried out by cranking at a plant using special technologies, it does not give carbon deposits and burns well, while slowly under 95 octane. Gasoline of the old gost, octane boosters do not burn, only mix in and kill combustion so that it proceeds slowly at 95 octane, while there is not enough energy in the cylinders, we press more and more, but there is no sense, soot in the gases passes through the crankcase ventilation and gets into into the throttle and into the inlet valve, the switching is long / short, the recirculation valve is clogged, covered with valve salts - they overheat, deposits in the oil, and most importantly, the turbine impeller is covered with a layer of burnt-out muck, there are metals, sulfur, etc., this disturbs the imbalance, and so getting into the bushing, the turbine dies after a certain time. The catalyst is gradually covered with oxides and DC. as a result, not only these errors will be but a bunch of others.
I have 1.4T, I fill in only 95 euros ecto with nova on lukoil where they accept a visa card and a savings card. I have several diagnostic scanners that I work with and watch my Opel, no errors.
And so we repeat about the throttle valve, error P2135 - Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch Voltage Correlation "A" / "B" - this means the correlation is a different value with the same damper action, for example, it has one voltage by 8%, and when, after pressing, it returns back and the computer forces it to open by 8%, it already shows something else, while the control goes on two sensors from 0 -5v and 5-0v, there are no coincidences, if something is horrible, if the damper position sensor is covered.
Such a mistake was on Kruse with a mileage of about TO1, I ordered to wash the damper, other people took it apart, I came to the room, I threw off all the rides so far.I can make a scanner at will, if everyone needs it, to scan the automatic transmission engine using the EOBD OBDII protocol. cost 4000r, do it yourself and on German equipment. Variables are a whole bunch of definitions too.
