Homemade plowing motor winch - one of the units that are very common in our area. Every self-respecting owner tries to have such a thing. Moreover, to use it not only for plowing, but also for other economic needs.
main part homemade motor winch is the engine. The choice of suitable domestic engines is not very wide. Engines from the "Minsk" motorcycle, from the "Electron" scooter have gained sincere recognition, the "Ural" and "Druzhba" chainsaws are used. The choice of such engines is due to their prevalence and cheapness, many engines migrate from old, already decommissioned equipment, and live out their remaining century well. 
Engine power must be at least 2-3 horsepower (Druzhba chainsaw), the engine must be high-torque and must start well.
Electron motors have not been produced for a very long time; they are convenient in that they have forced cooling. But the engines from the "Tourist" scooter are no longer running, the winch turns out to be very heavy. 
Minsk engines fit optimally. They are not very heavy, they start, as they say, with a half-shot and are very common in rural areas.
The main homemade winch assemblies are the frame, traction drum and lugs. Usually the frame is welded from a steel tube or a 25 x 25 mm square steel profile. You can use an old motorcycle frame by cutting and welding it in a different configuration. 
The cable drum is often made from the rear wheel hub of a motorcycle. It already has an axle, bearings, drive gears. You can make a drum from a pipe, but it's a little more complicated.
The gas tank used is usually small, usually from a chainsaw. It already has a faucet with a sump and mounting points. Ignition is standard from a motorcycle. 
The usual position of the motor winch operator when plowing is standing on the lug, holding the steering wheel, the right hand controls the throttle valve - like on a motorcycle. The gears are switched on either with a standard foot lever, or a manual lever is welded on.
The plow speed during plowing is 4-8 km per hour, therefore the diameter of the drum and the gear are selected in such a way that there are enough revolutions when working in first gear. With a long section and light soil, you can work in second gear. 
With large lengths of the section, the winch is usually muffled while dragging the plow, if the section is small, then the engine does not turn off, but works constantly for some time. This is relevant because Minsk engines do not have forced cooling. Plowing practice shows that the usual intensity of the motor winch allows you to do without additional cooling. 
As lugs, paddles or pins are used, welded to the U-shaped lever, on which the footrest is made. The lug is usually spring loaded for ease of use. Practice shows that when installing a motor winch on a boundary overgrown with solid turf, it is much more convenient to use lugs based on metal pins - they easily enter the ground and hold the winch well. 
For complete convenience, you can attach a long lever with a saddle handle to the lug and sit on it while plowing, while pressing down on the lugs with the fifth point.
Electric winches are practiced in their home areas. For electric winches for plowing an electric motor of at least 2 kW is needed, asynchronous motors are quite heavy, and most of them require a three-phase network, which is not very convenient. Lighter single-phase electric motors are collector motors. The most applicable electric motors from an electric saw, they are powerful, lightweight, have a gearbox and mount, and are well adapted to a winch. Very often engines from the Parma chainsaw are used, because it is very dangerous for work and now there are many good imported equipment, and the outdated Parma is used for the winch. 
The most common vertical design of a motor winch with an engine from the "Minsk" motorcycle (photo 1a, b) is made by local craftsmen even to order. The winch frame is made of a steel square section (from old tables and desks). The drum is located under the engine at the bottom, the engine along the way, is fixed above the drum. 
The high position of the engine makes it difficult to switch gears by foot, therefore, a manual lever is often made in this design (photo 1b). The winch takes up little space and can be carried in the trunk of a car. A similar winch (photo 2a) is made on a frame made of circular steel pipes with an engine from the Voskhod motorcycle, another similar one (photo 2b) with lugs in the form of blades. 
Interesting winch design (photo 3a, b) about the same layout, but with a more spacious frame. For ease of movement during plowing and travel to the plowing site, a wheel is attached to the frame on one side, and a large steel arc on the other. Such a winch takes up more space, but is more convenient for transportation. 
Another design of a motor winch (photo 4a, b) is the so-called reverse. It is based on the motorcycle frame, so the engine is located towards the operator, and the drum stands in place of the rear wheel. The muffler is also used standard, the steering wheel in the fork is turned in the opposite direction. Gears are engaged with the right foot. This design is longer and lower, but requires less welding. An interesting feature of this winch is forced cooling using a 12 volt electric fan powered by a standard motorcycle generator (photo 4b - a fan to the right of the gas tank). 
For several years, the Kotlass Electromechanical Plant has been producing winches for use with the Druzhba and Ural chainsaws as consumer goods (photo 5a, b). A double chain drive is used as a reducer. The design is small and light. The winch is not very expensive, since it does not contain a regular engine, but each has its own chainsaw, and is popular. As a comment, it was stated that the diameter of the traction drum is too small. 
When the Parma electric saw is installed on such a winch (photo 6a, b), the design is even more compact and lighter. The power of the winch is enough for plowing vegetable gardens on light soils. In general, for plowing heavy soils with sod, stubble, virgin areas, it is necessary to reduce the working width and plowing depth by adjusting the plow, and hold the plow with your hands during the passage, otherwise it strives to jump out of the furrow or burrow into the sod. Then either the cable bursts, if it is thin, which is very sad, or turns the winch out of the ground together with the operator, which is much better, the equipment remains intact. 
An interesting design of a completely homemade electric winch is shown in photo 7a, b.
The unit is solid, asynchronous three-phase motor 3kW. For ease of movement, the winch is equipped with long handles and a wheel. If it is necessary to plow a plot far from the power grid, there is an adapter for installing a chainsaw (photo 7b). 
The main feature of this winch is the presence of a radio remote control system (the antenna connector is visible on the connection box at the top left). The remote control system allows the owner to use the winch for numerous household needs, be it pulling timber, lifting weights, etc. The winch is equipped with an easily removable saddle handle (photo 8a), which is inserted into a socket-tube welded to the lug. 
There are many original designs of motor winches, our Russian home-grown constructors do not sit idle (the finished frame for the winch is in photo 8b). A low-budget design approach is associated with low rural incomes. Currently, cool units on imported engines began to appear, again mostly semi-handmade, made in small batches. 
Factory motor winches rarely appear on sale, and their consumer qualities leave much to be desired. Usually, the factory unit is altered for themselves, leaving the base and improving some units, or used in a non-standard version. For example, there are winch designs based on a walk-behind tractor. The walk-behind tractor is placed on the base; instead of one of the wheels, a traction drum is put on. Moreover, in the transport position, the walk-behind tractor carries itself and the plow is still in the cart. 
Another interesting compact design of an electric winch (photo 9a, b) is produced by one of the state of emergency in Kotlas. A very successful design solution for this winch is a planetary gearbox inside the traction drum, which made it possible to minimize the size and weight of the winch. Now the whole unit looks like it consists of two parts: the engine and the drum, mounted on a closed frame with retractable handles. The low weight of the winch allows easy removable lugs to be attached directly to the main frame. 
From a single-phase 2.2 kW motor, there is a chain transmission to a gear mounted on the primary shaft of the gearbox, coaxial with the drum shaft, which is the secondary shaft of the gearbox. This construction of the power circuit allows you to install a 4-stroke imported gasoline engine instead of an electric motor without changing the transmission. The lever (photo 9a) is used to disconnect the drum from the gearbox (cable unwinding mode) ..
The design of a motor winch on an engine from a "Tourist" or "Ant" scooter is shown in photo 10a, b. 
This engine is very famous, the T-200, with forced cooling. The ignition can be easily converted to a tractor magneto, which allows you to do without a battery. Starts up very well, quite pulling. Often used on homemade caracats. As noted above, its disadvantage for a motor winch is its weight. But the motor winch turned out to be quite technological, although a bit heavy. 
For better sliding of the cable, this motor winch uses steel vertical rollers on bearings. This prevents the drum cable from rubbing when the motor winch is not installed accurately. 
Pin lugs, the gas tank is taken from an old moped.
The operation of this motor winch with a hiller is demonstrated in the video.
A variant of a motor winch on the Lifan engine is shown in photo 11a, b. The design is almost the same as in photo 9, the frame is slightly enlarged to accommodate the engine. The lug with a spatula, rigidly attached to the frame, in the transport position is turned upside down with the spatula. 
Throttle control - with a shifter, engine power 5.5 hp. Reducer - planetary inside the drum. The motor winch is configured as much as possible for ease of transportation, it may be somewhat to the detriment of convenience when plowing. Such winches are manufactured by LLC "Moris" in Kotlas.
Well, finally, recently (September 2012) I saw a factory motor winch for plowing in a store in Koryazhma (photo 12a, b). The winch is produced at the plant in Izhevsk. The layout is excellent, the handlebars are comfortable, move out from the transport position to the working position. The lugs are small shoulder blades. The engine is 4-stroke imported with a capacity of 5-7 hp. Double reducer - belt plus chain. Clutch - by belt tension, as on cultivators, is activated by a pedal. It looks like a quite decent unit. There are no reviews yet, I have not yet seen this mechanism in practice.
Plows, hillers and various land cultivation devices are a topic for a separate article.
Now the shops sell electric winches for agricultural work,
In particular for plowing the land. The winch is well done and many
for the processing of land. There is such a winch about
250 $. The principle of work is this, one plows, the other manages,
If the plow jumps out of the ground in the process, you need to shout stop
drag it back and shout it again. Simple and funny
if the operator responds slowly. I suggest an alternative:
At cost, if you buy everything, you can invest in $ 150
electric winch
(electric motor 2.2 kW 1500 rpm - $ 30, cable 5 mm length 30 m - $ 20,
A gearbox with a gear ratio of 15 can be different - $ 30,
Electronic wireless call - $ 10, the rest is about $ 60)
An important indicator is the speed of rotation of the winch drum
It should be approximately, which will allow plowing not very slowly
And don't run after the plow. Average pedestrian speed is approximately equal
4-5 km / h - rotation speed is selected by three elements
(motor speed, pulleys, gearbox and insignificantly
drum diameter).
An important element in the winch is the clutch, it must
Switch the drum on and off from the gearbox in order to unwind
Cable. You can use a nut from the engine for clutch
A car that has a mustache and is designed to be installed
Into it the so-called (curve starter) crank
elbows of the engine shaft.
clutch
Shown in the photo with numbers 1 - the shaft of the gearbox on which the movable
clutch part 2 moves along the axis and is connected by a spring
with shaft 3 which is welded to the winch drum.
Lever 4 you can disconnect or connect the winch drum
to the gearbox to unwind the cable.
clutch off
The principle of operation is as follows, turn off the drum with a lever
unwind the rope at the end to the required length,
we attach to the plow or load that is necessary
move. When the winch is turned on, the clutch is automatically
snaps into place and drives the drum which
winds the rope and moves the load towards the winch.
It is also possible to use a winch for dragging loads
an example you can watch the video.
Here is the connection diagram to the remote control starter.
Cool thing makes it easier to control the winch, plowing is possible
land without an assistant, hold the button, the plow is moving, let go, stopped.
This device can be connected to any electrical unit,
opening the gate. turning on the lighting. control of a pump, compressor,
fan and other devices. For purchase and
you can contact us for connection advice below in the form
At home I had an old, dusty and oily worm gear 4-40 with a reduction ratio of 1:40, which served as the basis for the winch. This, by the way, can be found at a flea market for a low price and in good condition.
Having completely disassembled and washed it in gasoline from oil deposits, which looked more like black plasticine, I decided to immediately change the oil seals. I used oil seals from a car of the VAZ family for replacement. I changed all the gaskets (I cut out the replaceable ones from paraonite with a thickness of 0.6 mm), adjusted the gap between the worm and the gear. I filled in gear oil, and the gearbox was as good as new.
To determine what size the drum would need, I first welded a frame from a 40x40x4mm corner, 75x30cm.
At first I thought that the cable from the drum would be unwound using the engine reverse, but it turned out to be very long and inconvenient, much easier manually. But for this it was necessary to come up with a clutch with which it would be possible to separate the gearbox shaft from the drum shaft and thereby unwind the cable without effort for the required length of the garden. And during the operation of the winch, I connect the gearbox to the drum, and both shafts work together.
The clutch was made from the front CV joints (hinges of equal angular velocities) and the front hub of the VAZ 2108. The CV joint shafts have external splines, identical to the internal splines of the hub. It is they who will mesh with each other. The used CV joints and the hub were purchased at the scrap metal collection point (they were not found in the nearest auto repair shop at that moment). I immediately cut off two parts of the shaft from the CV joint - they are needed to make the winch shaft (Fig. 3).
Then he started making a drum on which the cable will be wound. From a piece of pipe with an outer diameter of 114 mm, I made two flanges 5 mm thick. I bought round steel (round timber) with a diameter of 35 mm at a metal warehouse - it served as a blank for the shaft. Round timber with a diameter of 90 mm became a blank for the drum bearing housings. By the way, keep in mind: when buying metal at a metal base (if they will cut it with a prop-new cutter), do not immediately throw it into a container with water. Such metal is difficult to turn. I also had to buy a pair of bearings in the 306 series to handle the plow load.
Arriving home and drawing on a piece of paper a drawing of the future shaft (Fig. 1), I went to the turner. It's time to put it all together into a single mechanism. I must say right away that winch cases can be found both ready-made and used. But in my city there are no such shops, so I asked the turner to also carve the case for the unit (Fig. 2).
Taking flanges with holes cut in the center for the outer diameter of the shaft, I welded them to a piece of pipe with a diameter of 114 mm. Then, passing the machined shaft through the flanges of the drum, he centered it so that there was a small gap between the flange and the bearing housing, and welded the drum to the shaft. The spline shaft of the CV joint was inserted into the cut hole in the end of the drum shaft and carefully welded. I made the same splines on the gearbox. This required the second spline shaft of the CV joint - it was fixed on the gearbox through a machined bushing.
Fastenings of the gearbox and the drum to the frame were made from a corner of 50x50x5 mm. I fixed everything with potholders, because all this must be aligned. I welded a 50 × 50 mm angle to the machined bearing housings (Fig. 5): now they can be fixed to the frame with bolts and can be easily removed if repair or replacement of bearings is required.
It is very important to position the housings so that when the winch is operating, all the traction force from the hulls falls not on the welding seam, but on the corner (photo 4). Then the case will not come off, the corner will provide a large margin of safety.
I set all the machined parts so that the hub could move freely, did not jam (photo 5), then welded it slightly, and when I was convinced that everything was installed correctly, I welded it conscientiously.
The winch can be secured to the ground using two short lengths of pipe welded together. You just need to pass reinforcement or metal rods through them and drive them into the ground.
The engine used asynchronous, with a power of 1.5 kW and a speed of at least 2780 per minute. The less powerful one - at 750 W and 2780 rpm - failed. I found an unexpected way out - I installed an angle grinder on the winch, in other words, a 2.3 kW grinder.
Probably every owner has one, and its power and 6500 rpm allow it to cope with any loads during plowing and hilling without the slightest sign of overheating. I just fixed it - with two bolts in the holes for installing the handle. Instead of a cutting disc, I installed a threaded pulley - and everything works great. The pulley, by the way, can be turned by a turner, but it can be done much cheaper: find a suitable pulley in the scrap metal and, having precisely centered, weld a nut to clamp the disk from the same grinder. The belt was used from a VAZ-2101 car generator. The grinder is stretched with the help of a hand applied force (photo 6).
Everything is prepared, it remains to bolt the cable to the drum and wind it evenly. I took the cable 4 mm thick: this one confidently copes with its task, although if your soil is heavy, you should take a 5 mm one with a margin. The plow and the hiller (photo 7-9) were made by myself, as the quality offered on the market was not satisfactory. Drawings of the plow and hiller are shown in Figure 4-7. Having a welding machine, a grinder, a hammer and suitable material on the farm, it is not difficult to make a plow and a hiller.
Preparation for work
At the beginning of the row, in the middle, we install the winch by hammering in two metal rods for fixing. The assistant manually unwinds the rope to the required length. Using the hub, two shafts are connected, then we turn on the grinder - and the unit starts working.
When hilling, it is only necessary to slightly direct the plow to the left or to the right, adjusting the position of the hiller in the row. When plowing, the plow also needs to be adjusted, although the wheel in the furrow in front of the plow does most of the work for you.
Now, hilling and plowing takes much less time and effort, although, making the same winch again, I would have corrected something by making the structure less overall. And so in the plans - painting and revision of this winch, but now it does an excellent job with its task.
DIY electric winch plow - photos and drawings
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Homemade winch with a plow, for plowing a garden, photo and description of homemade products.
This home-made electric winch for plowing a vegetable garden was made in the 90s. At that time, there was a great need to develop land plots (the salary at the plant was delayed and there was not much money).
On the other hand, any detail at the factory could be machined for almost nothing. So the idea arose to improve and facilitate the work of the rural worker by means of small mechanization.
It was decided to make an adaptation of a winch with a plow for plowing the land.
The design is made as follows: an electric geared motor is fixed on a metal frame with a start-stop unit. The motor-reducer rotates the drum with the wound cable (cable thickness 6 mm), and at the end of the 50-meter cable there is a hook which in turn pulls the plow.
In this device, the principle of a winch is used. The process of work is as follows: we carry the plow to a certain distance, then turn on the winch and pull the plow, plowing the ground by one furrow.
The plowing process must be done together, one holds the plow, and the second controls the winch and holds it by means of a crowbar stuck into the ground.
We named this device with a winch "BUDULAY". The engine is combined with a gearbox and the power is 800 watts, the power is three-phase 380 volts, button control (press-turn on, release-stop).
Motor-reducer nameplate.
