Newly minted SUV owners often find themselves in the captivity of illusions, not suspecting that the torque distributed between four rather than two wheels is far from a panacea for losing control on a winter road. Today we are learning to deal with drifts and drifts on all-wheel drive in company Jaguar F-Pace First Edition.
Oh, the thunderous ice field waiting for me, lightly dusted with snow, at first seems too far-fetched a test. When, in real life, you find yourself in such conditions ... Overboard +1, Novorizhskoe highway is covered with an aqueous solution of reagents, but even an ordinary front-wheel-drive hatch feels more than confident on this slurry.
One and a half kilometers to the side, an exit onto a country road to the landfill - and the situation is radically changing. Ice at borderline near-zero temperatures is especially slippery, with a water film and even a spike is not always effective on such a mix ... "It would be easier on a full drive ...", - I thought, once again catching the car on a simple arc ...
The 380-horsepower top-end Jaguar F-Pace, of course, has a lot of "electronic assistants": both ABS and ESP, it can emergency brakes and dynamically redistribute torque ... And, of course, it has four-wheel drive with a multi-plate clutch and priority rear axle. Do you really need to learn to ride in winter, having such an arsenal? Need to!
“The driver of any car faces two dangers. The first is the loss of stability, that is, the drift of the front axle. The second is a loss of control, that is, a rear skid. When all-wheel drive scheme transmissions, these phenomena occur less often due to the redistribution of torque to each of the axles, and in the case of the F-Pace, also to each of the wheels.
The main advantage of all-wheel drive is a stable start from a place and the ability to maintain good controllability at high enough speeds while driving.
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If we talk about choosing the safest type of all-wheel drive, then ten years ago I would definitely recommend the “constant” Full time scheme, in which torque is immediately present on both axles. The current electronically controlled clutches are so fast that at the slightest slipping of the driving axle, the rear or front are connected almost instantly, in 3.5 ms. But you just won't feel it, so there is almost no point in permanent all-wheel drive.
Moreover, most of the time the second axis is simply not needed - it only gives increased consumption fuel and that's it. And if we are talking about safety and controllability, then a car with a constant, unchanging moment on two axles is not very willing to move in an arc. It so happens that it just gets in the way on the steering wheels - this happens on cars with a Torsen differential. Therefore, for normal driving conditions, the most justified systems are based on haldex couplings with priority of the front axle or Magna clutch with the main rear.
But you should always remember that braking distances car, which is very important, does not depend on the type of drive at all. So the choice of a car is only a small part of the success. "
Semyon Vodilnikov, senior instructor of the Jaguar school Land rover
Moving from theory to practice at the Jaguar Land Rover training ground near Moscow. The first task on the ice field seems to be simple - a "snake" between the cones with a gradual increase in the amplitude of movement and speed. Sooner or later this should lead to a loss of both stability and controllability. Why, what and how to do next, I will learn in the course of this fascinating and interesting play.
The F-Pace's multimedia display shows me in real time how torque is distributed to the wheels, but I have no time to watch the pictures.
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As long as I do not exceed the set limit of 30 km / h and the steering is accurate, the crossover perfectly bypasses the cones on almost bare ice, even on non-studded tires, without connecting the ESP, which I can judge by the absence of the characteristic crunch and flashing pictograms.
Semyon Vodilnikov, senior instructor of the Jaguar Land Rover school:
“Let's be extremely honest. For each type of coverage, for each type of tire, for each vehicle design, there is a maximum permissible speed, on which you can perform this or that maneuver without losing stability or control. Naturally, for correct work driving, throttle ... In case of errors in "piloting" such speed will be lower. "
So, any, even the most perfect stabilization system gives a 20 percent increase to maximum speed safe maneuver. No more. That is, if by car without ESP you pass this site without losing directional stability at 30 km / h, then with electronic stabilization the speed will be 36 km / h. Let's try!
With an increase in the speed and amplitude of bypassing the cones, the stern begins to be thrown to the side, and the car loses control. The ESP light flashes, "Jag" becomes sluggish, but the side slip does not disappear from this. Excuse me, where does all the electronics look?
Semyon Vodilnikov, senior instructor of the Jaguar Land Rover school:
“Nobody has canceled the laws of physics. If the impulse imparted to the car by means of the accelerator is excessive, then the car will follow the vector in the direction of which the moment was initially applied.
The direction can be corrected using the steering wheel, throttle and all sorts of additional technical solutions, whether it is the redistribution of torque along the axles or wheels or selective braking of one or more wheels.
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But all this works within certain speed limits.
A typical mistake is too high a corner entry speed. If it is done in winter, it will most likely be followed by the demolition of the front axle outward, which is very difficult to correct. Of course, there are professional or sports driving techniques that allow you to drive at very high speeds, but this is a special article that has been studied for years.
Any electronic system stabilization is, first of all, an analyzer of the correctness of our actions while driving, but only secondarily an effective assistant. If the driver is unable to determine the moment of axle slip into sliding, the triggered automatic is the first indicator that the speed needs to be reduced.
Don't hit the brakes this second, but understand: road conditions are such that you need to be more careful when entering the next turn or changing lanes even on a perfectly straight track. And, of course, do not try to brake during maneuvers or on an arc. In this case, only correct control will help. But this, again, is a topic for multiple theoretical and practical lessons. If you have no experience, it is easier to just go slower. Even with all-wheel drive. "
Another exercise is acceleration with "throttle to the floor" and emergency braking... On ice, even the all-wheel drive transmission has a hard time digesting the F-Pace's 460Nm of torque, and steering to maintain stability straight motion you have to work ahead of the curve. The stabilization system, which includes traction control, is still off. The instructor's command, the brake to the floor, the chatter of ABS - and the car stops without deviating from the course.
Semyon Vodilnikov, senior instructor of the Jaguar Land Rover school:
“Electronics completely copes with its functions, determining how to distribute the force to the brake machines along the axes. But the most effective braking will not be with the pedal in the floor, but on the verge of activating ABS. This method is achieved only through training and unconditional knowledge of the behavior of the car you are using. "
With the electronics turned on, everything happens much more calmly. It "strangles" the engine, corrects deliberate roughness of control and mistakes, not allowing the super-powerful Jaguar to go off course. It is in this case that the all-wheel drive is one hundred percent fulfilling its existence.
Semyon Vodilnikov, senior instructor of the Jaguar Land Rover school:
“In winter, the car can slide out and at low speeds. Inexperienced four-wheel drive drivers often make the mistake of thinking that on such a car, you can add gas already at the entrance to the turn. As a result, we get a slip of both axes. There is only one way out of the situation: to stabilize the front axle, straightening the steering wheel and trying to catch on to the surface, then compensate for the rear skid by adding a weak, "pulling" gas. And again you need experience and practical training on your own car.
But it also happens that at the very minimum speed the car does not go where it is needed. It seems that you have twisted the steering wheel all the way to the left, but it does not obey and goes straight or even to the right. In this case, turning the rudder in the direction of the axle drift, in this case - to the right, will help to get on the desired course. Stereotypes interfere with this simple movement, which can only be eliminated through training.
Even myself experienced driver I would recommend taking a driving or emergency training course once a year. If this is not possible, find a free site where you can work out certain previously mastered techniques and bring them to automatism. In this case, the risk of getting into an unpleasant situation, especially in winter, will decrease many times over. ”
And finally, a few moments especially about 4x4 cars:
- The four-wheel drive vehicle is stabilized only "under gas".
- Having stabilized, it continues acceleration, which is not always safe in the current road situation.
- An attempt to decelerate sharply in such conditions most often leads to the return of the original instability or uncontrollability, even if the trajectory is straight.
What's the bottom line?
If you are an inexperienced driver who does not have the desire and ability to train regularly and “fill your hand”, then the easiest way is to drive slowly enough, even if you have tall car with all-wheel drive that inspires confidence.
Have you lost control on 4WD?
Is it possible to drive in winter all-wheel drive, on the NP231 transfer case (without center differential)
Handout 231. Tell me, pliz, is it possible to drive an all-wheel drive in winter, say, on a highway (eg Moscow-Peter)? The site says that "you cannot rush along a snow-covered highway ...", however, I heard the opinion that this applies only (!) To a dry and hard surface, but does not apply to slippery, snow-covered, etc. The question is relevant, because there are plans to travel to Finland in winter.
Answer 1
Yes, it's right. BUT! There is no differential in the 231 transfer case, so on high speed driving a 4H is simply dangerous. And the load on the transmission turns out to be too great - all the crosses start to work for wear.
I will try to give universal advice about: it is POSSIBLE to ride on the all-wheel drive 231 handouts, but with reasonable restrictions.
1. DO NOT drive faster than 80 km / h - dangerous!
2. DO NOT ride on dry hard surfaces - harmful to the transmission!
3. DO NOT drive on mixed (snow / asphalt) with slipping - you will definitely tear something or spin the car!
Good luck.
Sasha.
Answer 2
I only use 4WD in a terrible garbage, and then at speeds up to 40 km / h. And on Nakkapilit on the winter track it is not bad with 2WD.
Can a person eat all mushrooms?
Answer: All, but some only once in a lifetime.
For this I do not advise.
Could someone clearly and in a form accessible to the Newcam describe the advantages and disadvantages of 231 and 242. I read almost the entire FAK - I could not decide (Specifically: does it drive in winter rear wheel drive (ZP) (for example, as in the classics), is it stable to move on the ZP in high-speed mode, the likelihood of skidding at parttime / fulltime, etc.).
Answer 1
As a person who personally replaced 231 with 242 on Chirka, I will say this. Personally, it was frankly uncomfortable for me to ride with the 231st rear-wheel drive razdatka in winter. In the city with average snowy roads, it was frankly ashamed of his teal when, when starting off, he wagged his backside like the last underdrive. At the entrance to the turn it was dumb, because I was afraid to hook my neighbors down the stream, leaving my ass to the side. Enabling the mode Part Time on the 231st it was only partly saved, because if it was possible to get under way from a place in this mode on porridge and it was not fast to drive in a straight line, but it was still possible, then when entering a turn on a snowy road, one day I almost died. The fact is that in the Part-Time mode, with a more or less strong steering wheel, due to the absence of center differential, the front wheels JUST STOP ROTATING AND GO SLIDING. And if somewhere in shit at a speed of 3 km / h it is not scary, then in winter on a normal road, an attempt to go through a 90-degree turn at a speed greater than 10 km / h will end with the layout of the car about something standing on the outside radius of this very turning. And all due to the fact that the car flies into a turn with the front wheels locked and on a slippery road becomes simply uncontrollable. I was lucky at one time, and there was just a snowdrift ...
So, of course, you can listen to people saying that the 231st handout is a panacea for all weather conditions, but I also talk about what I know about, and responsibly declare: I AM ABSOLUTELY SATISFIED with the 242nd handout and I WAS Frankly uncomfortable to ride the 231st ...
Today, after replacing 231 with 242, it is a pleasure to ride a teal in winter in Full-Time mode. In the snow the car goes as on asphalt and turns it prescribes as Jeep should prescribe. :)
All the pleasure of replacing the hand-out poured into me 350 USD (300 - used hand-out + 50 over-hand). IMHO Not so expensive for the pleasure of feeling human on a winter road.
AndrewSlk, 31 January 2005
Answer 2
Left Moscow on Tuesday at 17:00. Returned yesterday afternoon. The first 2 days of the desk time did not turn off at all. I drove about 700 km in part-time. The road surface is made of snow slurry, ice and in places asphalt with gravel. I drove pretty fast, turning like a fan. Upon arrival in Moscow, I found out that such an aggressive driving in part-time, at speeds above 100 km / h, killed them. both front wheels. Outer side rubber is gobbled up, spikes are missing as a fact ...-)
Hello All!I'll tell you right away, I'm sorry.
Experience like 10 years already, I have always had
front-wheel drive cars, and that's got enough,
that the city is not cleaned, and in the winter around the city,
just not to drive, I decided to buy a jeep or SUV,
the choice fell on the 1997 Toyota RAV4 with 4WD.
Well, I drove it in the summer, very happy with it
that almost everywhere you can climb on it, and for
families and cottages just right. Cool cars.And now winter has come ...
Well, I prepared for the winter (fluids, batteries, and suspension)
the car by itself, I also changed the tires for winter,
though not studded on the Michelin Alpine 4x4 (215/70 / R16).
In our city, the first snow and ice, as always,
as a natural disaster utilities, snow is not
they waited and did not know, in the evening the night was heavy rain,
then it snowed, in the morning there was already 10-15 cm of snow,
and at the same time, already frozen, and below there was ice.
I needed to go to the dacha with my mother-in-law in the morning, well, the car tore off
from the snow, started, drove off, well, the roads, as always, are not removed,
on the bend, ice blocks, and an ice slide on the road
with a comb. We are not us, we are in a jeep, I am glad that the car,
so good, rides through the snowdrifts, and goes through the snowy porridge,
well class car, supper. We left the city, well, as always,
out of habit with front-wheel drive, I'm flying 70 km / h, and I don't see
that on the road outside the city, the wind is strong and ice and crust.
Well, I’m flying, and at some point during a detour, I don’t remember what,
the car starts spinning (or drifting), out of habit
front-wheel drive, I press the gas pedal, I think, somehow get out
from this drifting, but nothing comes of it, ahead of me,
on the left lane, cars and a flight groove, well, I think, only
no matter how I fit in, figs with him that I will cure for the road,
there are snowdrifts, I'll slow down on them. In these thoughts,
I turn the steering wheel in different directions, I try to stabilize,
movement of the car, and get out of drifting, I get away from cars,
then I see that I am carried to the flight groove, drove,
he also sees that I'm carrying me sideways on him, let's leave,
from each other, thank God, they left, while I was carried by him,
it dawned on me that it was necessary to brake with the engine, i.e. on the gas pedal
you cannot press in this situation. It all happened
in some 1-2 seconds. The mother-in-law was sitting next to her, she said nothing,
I said to myself, well nafig it, got adrenaline,
I'll go back more carefully, this drifting is enough for me
With first snow.
One upset that I did not notice the number of the flight groove,
to drive up to apologize to him, and in gratitude
give a bottle.Now the questions:
- What driving style should be and should be at constant full
drive?
- And what to do to avoid the turntable of the car
on a snowy road with ice? I myself understand that not to fly,
and if he was driving carefully, and got into that the car started spinning.
- Explain, I have never had a car with rear wheel drive,
driving style in the back is almost the same as on a constant
all-wheel drive?
- What is the best way to get out of an unintentional skid in a 4WD car?
Just take your foot off the gas pedal and brake the engine?
- And yet, I realized that for all-wheel drive and to drive out of town,
need SPOTLED rubber. Thorns, I think give less chance to
the car spun and would have been thrown out of the lane.P.S: I understand that I did the wrong thing, I want to
so that this does not happen, here are the questions.Thanks...
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With respect, Nicholai
Toyota RAV4 (left hand drive), year 1997, 3S-FE, manual transmission