In your case, it was necessary to specify not only the engine model, but also a vehicle brand, its year of release and mileage. Which oil you used before, is also an important factor.

It is high-quality consumables. Use this consumable material or not - depends on the year of the vehicle and the engine status. If the car is relatively new or recently done overhaul Motor along with his cleaning from Nagara, the operation of the ZEK is quite admissible. But it is necessary to take into account that, by its design, the GDI engines are most prone to the accumulation of in-law both in the combustion chamber and on the valve. Therefore, we will recommend you to stop the choice on minorial fluids.

For example, if you take the consumable production from Europe and the corresponding ASEA C3 standard, then you should take mm with the lowest alkaline number.

Such mm includes:

• Neast City about 5W40;
• Pentosin Pentosynth (Pentosin Pentosynth) with the same number;
• or (Canada manufacturer) 5W30.

If you decide to use the lubricating liquid of Asian production, then it is necessary that the SN ilsac GF-4 or GF-5 is suitable according to its standards.

For example, GDI is allowed:

• JitioL Energy CH 5W30.

These consumables will be recommended on any specialized service station that is engaged in repair and maintenance. vehicles German or Japanese production. But the search for such lubricating MM can cause difficulties depending on the region where you buy products. If you can't find it, we will advise you to contact the dealer or buy online.

Below is a list of liquids that are often used by domestic motorists, while they do not complain about the quality of these oils:

• Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30;
• FUCH TITAN GT1 C3 5W-30;
• Total quartz Ineo 5W-30;
• Mobile ECP formula 5W-30.

In any case, quality consumables It should be high, so before purchasing it, pay attention not only on the packaging, but also for the price. Too low cost Must be alert, since it is often a consequence of low-quality oils.

Video "What you need to know about the replacement of mm on Mitsubishi"

What you need to know about the replacement of oil in Mitsubishi cars - look at the video.

Features of the 4G93 GDI engine.

I often go to the forum of the Tsatmy-Klub ... And today I read the info about the TNVD 3 generations accidentally stumbled upon an interesting topic ... for which you so much Thank you for Maxim ... I really laid everything on the shelves ... Well, at least for me ... and so that I would not lose this note ... I decided to add it. And not so terrible GDI.

1. Do not wash the engine under pressure. Wipe with a cleaner.
2. Periodically move the terminals of the sensors.
3. Use motor oil with maximum detergent properties. I will Lew Shell 0W40 (synthetic) in winter and 5w40 (mineral or semi-synthetic) in summer. I change without flushing. This allows you to keep the engine clean. And for GDI, this is very important, since this type of engine has increased nagar formation. I do not recommend Mobil.
4. Change the oil on time. It is better in the area of \u200b\u200b8-10 tons. Km
5. When changing the oil, change the oil filter.
6. Follow the level. Support a little more middle.
7. During operation, the oil should be in 200-300 km. Black as oil. This speaks about the good detergent properties of the oil. Better clean engine And dirty oil than the opposite.
8. Do not rinse the engine with flushing. With the right and timely change of oil of one manufacturer, this is not required. I came from Japan almost without oil and with Teflon additive. Replaced twice after 1000 km. and order. Hydrakes are not knocking, do not smoke and oil consumption is normal.
9. Use only original candles ngk. BKR5EKUD. It goes at least 60 tons km.
10. Follow the tips. Keep them clean. Cracks are not allowed during compression. 1-2 times a year disassemble them and clean the removal of the inner springs. Clean the contact location in the coil. Process the rubber parts with a tire cleaner from STEP UP. This is my favorite universal agent. It protects rubber from drying out. Creates a protective layer. Restores the color of the plastic. Try, you will not regret. I even clean your shoes))). It costs about 250 p.
11. In the candlestones should be dry and clean. I have a little oil in 1 and 3 wells. At first it was more, now almost no. Did not do anything.
12. Once a month or every 2500-3000 km. Use the additive to gasoline to clean the injectors! Checked Manufacturers: Kerry and BBF. Observe the dosage!
13. Once a month or every 2500-3000 km. Use an additive into gasoline to remove moisture from fuel system. Checked Manufacturers: Kerry and BBF.
14. Every 10000t.km. Release 1 carb-spray cylinder on the damper.
15. Boldly use 92 gasoline. 95 and 98 well brown engine. By consumption, there is practically no difference.
16. Diesel vibrations are inherent in the engine. Their intensity, mainly, depends on the state of nozzles, candles, tips and Nagar's number.
17. Middle, real, consumption in the city of Millionnic; In the summer 10-12 l, in winter 12-15l. On the track in normal mode (100-120 km.ch) 7-8 liters. Minimum flow 4.8 liters. It was achieved at a speed on the track from 50 to 70 km. ht for 200 km.
18. Do not refill on the left gas stations!
19. Periodically, 1-2 times a month, turn on the air conditioner. In winter in the garage or with thaws. In the frost below -7 it will not turn on.
20. When problems in the engine work first, try reset the computer. By throwing off the terminal-minus for 1-2 minutes. And train the flap xxx.
21. Change air filter Every 30000. But, every 100,000, blow it with compressed air.
22. Put the mosquito net before the radiator. It should be perfectly clean!
23. Check the timing belt every 10,000 km for cracks. Good belt (I have Mitsuboshi for 850r.) It goes not less than 100t. km. The stretch of the belt can be determined by the sound of exhaust at speed more than 80 km. I had a loud rockness on my old and stretched (the phases were slightly). On a new belt, the sound of the exhaust has become much quieter and lightly purr only after 100 km. For the prevention of aging belt rubber processing it in 10000 km. Step Up tire cleaner. Open (reject) Timing protection, the distant lower bolt can not be twisted, we start the engine (heated) and splash to the external belt. You can slightly on the seals of the camshafts. Inside should be clean!
24. Keep track of the belts of the generator and gur. Especially gene. (He falls apart first) and after winter. Do not drag straps. Let it be better whistled with harsh gasThe bearings overload. Whistitis, mainly the generator belt. Once every 10,000 km. Treat step Up belts. It is more convenient to take an aerosol head with a tube from WD-40.
25. Change the liquid in Gure 1 time per year. I make a partial shift pumping pear from a tank and topping up to normal. I give a work engine and again. And so, until I will catch 1 liter. Thereby avoiding aerial traffic, removal of tubes and loss of tightness.
26. In the frost (below -25), start the engine on the neutral pre-turning off the stove. So more likely to start. After starting, turn on P.
27. Immediately after launch, sometimes, the clicks (tapping) are heard, which disappear after warming up or after 5-7 minutes. This is normal.
28. In the frost, the black smoke flies at startup. This is normal. Let it fly)
29. Starter Pretty Living. I twist and a minute. But I do not advise more! While the engine turnover starter is turned on, even if he got.
30. Gently with the county! From myself better not to separate.
31. If you didn't start in the frost, we are waiting for 1-2 minutes and try again. Gas pedal do not touch. Did not start the second time? ! Everything. Candle flooded. We calcinate and repeat the startup procedure. Again there is no-in a warm garage or waiting for heat above -25. Do not rape and do not bite. Useless. Catalysts do not like fusey gasoline. Do not get drunk.
32. Before drowning in a strong frost, put up to 4000-4500 about.
33. If the car is used in the city, let us sometimes heat on DS. The machine likes speed.
34. Ride every day. The car should work!

Thank you Maxim again.

May be useful to anyone.

Thank you for attention. As always your bu.

MITSUBISHI 4G93 1.8 L engine.

Mitsubishi 4G93 engine characteristics

Production	Kyoto Engine Plant.
Engine brand	4G9.
Years of release	1991-2010
Cylinder block material	cast iron
Supply system	carburetor / Injector
A type	in line
Number of cylinders	4
Valves on cylinder	4
Piston stroke, mm	89
Cylinder diameter, mm	81
Compression ratio	8.5-12
Engine volume, ccmm	1834
Engine Power, L.S. / Ob. Min	110-215/6000
Torque, Nm / Ob.min	154-284/3000
Fuel	92-95
Environmental norms	until Euro 4.
Engine weight, kg	~150
Fuel consumption, l / 100 km - city - Rouss - Mixed.	9.2 5.7 7.0
Oil consumption, gr. / 1000 km	up to 1000.
Engine oil	5W-30 5W-40 5W-50. 10W-30 10W-40 10W-50. 15W-40 15W-50. 20W-40. 20W-50.
How much oil in the engine, l	3.8 3.9 (turbo)
When replacing pour, l	3.5
Replacing the oil is carried out, km	10000 (better than 5000)
Engine operating temperature, hail.	90-95
Engine resource, thousand km - According to the plant - on practice	- 200-250
Tuning - Potential - without loss of resource	250+ n.D.
The engine was installed	Mitsubishi Dingo. Mitsubishi Emeraude. Mitsubishi Eterna. Mitsubishi Fto. Mitsubishi GTO. Mitsubishi Libero. Mitsubishi Pajero Io. Mitsubishi Space Star Mitsubishi Space Wagon

Mitssubishi engine repair and repair 4G93

A very popular 2-liter engine, produced for 20 years, is a cast-iron cylinder block covered with a single SOHC head, or a two-channel DOHC with belt drive GDM (the belt replacement is carried out every 90 thousand km, the valve will fit when cutting the belt 4G93). 4G93 engines are equipped with hydraulic components and permanent valve adjustment You do not threaten.
The first versions were with a carburetor and a GBC with one camshaft, later Carb gave way to a distributed MPI injection and the direct fuel injection GDI, the last option received very ambiguous reviews. In addition, both atmospheric modifications and versions with turbocharging 4G93T were produced, the power of turbo engines ranged from 160 to 215 hp
Based on this power aggregate The engines of various working volume were created: 1.6 liter, 2.0 liter and 1.5 liters. 4G91.

Faults 4G93 and their causes

1. Motor knock. Typical problem 4G93, the case in the hydrocompensators, and so that the problem is resolved, they must be changed. Next time leut the high-quality engine oil.
2. High flow Oils (Zhor). The normal state of affairs for a motor with decent mileage, given that 4G93 is very prone to the nagar formation. Outline will not help, you need to change valve stem seals and rings.
3. P.turn turns. On GDI engines, the main culprit is TNVD, the filter cleaning will help. In addition to it, do not forget about the cleaning of the throttle block.
4. It stalls to hot. Check the regulator idle moveMost likely it is necessary to replace it.

In addition, 4G93 GDI from the EGR valve is constantly in the inlet intake manifold and requires regular cleaning, in very coldy often pours candles, the engine itself loves good high-quality oil and fuel, constant care and control.
Summing up, the motor is normal, the average degree of reliability, take or not to solve you.

MITSUBISHI 4G93 engine tuning

4G93 MIVEC.

A rather reasonable way to increase the engine power of 4G93 1.8 is to give it MIVEC. To do this, we will need a Mivek GBC with a gasket and intake manifold, pistons from the 92nd, the rods are standard, timing belt from, nozzles from Lancer GSR with a capacity of 390 CC, ECU from 4G92. All this will significantly raise power (180-190 hp) and greatly increase maximum revs. For even greater motor swing, you need to port head, combine channels, put wide shafts (options are full), cold inlet, damper from 63 mm, Skunk2 receiver, build release on the 63rd tube with collector 4-2-1, customize and twist Will not fall apart. Such configs give well for 200 forces, but also ride not long.

Turbine on 4G93

Quite expensive, time-consuming and irregular way to increase the power of 4G93 - turbine. To boost, we need ready-made turbo whale third-party manufacturer, or from 4G93T, based on TD04L. The first thing you need to do is install oil nozzles, replace the SPGs on the same 4G93T under the low degree of compression (or forging), set the whale with the intercooler, the nozzles from 390 ss, exhaust from 63 mm, adjust and boldly blow up 0.8-1 Bar in stock piston 4G93T. Similar things can be implemented on MIVEC GBC from 4G92.
Given all the financial and labor costs for the alteration of GDI to the turbo, it is significantly easier to initially buy a contract 4G93 T or or a car with such power units.