Switch types. How to connect the switch on the scooter? General recommendations The role of the switch and the ignition coil

CDI switches are part of the system electronic ignition, the principle of which is based on the discharge of the capacitor.

A feature of such a system is the fact that the energy of the spark does not depend on the parameters of the engine, including its speed. Such an ignition system can fully function without an additional power source.

Scooter Ignition Switches

Stock and sports switches are available in our online store. The standard (stock) switch is factory-installed. In the assortment of our site, you can pick up standard switches for a Honda Dio, Yamaha or Suzuki scooter.

This type of commutator often has an engine speed limiter, which makes it possible to increase its resource. You can buy standard scooter switches from us:

  • CDI GY6 125 / 150CC 152QMI / 157QMJ;
  • CDI GY6 50CC 139QMB;
  • CDI HondaDio AF18;
  • CDI Honda Dio AF-27;
  • CDI Honda Dio ZX AF-34;
  • CDI Honda Dio ZX AF-35;
  • CDI Honda Dio ZX AF-34 small. plug;
  • CDI JH70 Delta;
  • CDI Yamaha Jog 3KJ;
  • CDI SuzukiLet "s AS50;

The main task of sports switches is to remove the restriction maximum speed engine. It should be noted that the installation of the tuning switch must be accompanied by a comprehensive revision of the engine. After carrying out such manipulations, the motor becomes more powerful, the acceleration dynamics increases. In our online store you can buy a sports switch for a Chinese or Japanese scooter of the following models:

  • CDI switch Honda Dio AF-27;
  • CDI JH110 Delta;
  • CDI Honda Lead 90CC;
  • CDI JH70 Delta;
  • CDI GY6 with wire;
  • CDI Yamaha Jog 3KJ;
  • CDI GY6 139QMB / 152QMI / 157QMJ;

Also on sale are CDI switches combined with an ignition coil:

  • CDI TB50 Suzuki Ran (BM Style / Joy) - suitable for engines of Chinese chain-driven scooters;
  • CDI E0120 Suzuki Adress AD50 50CC.

"Site" - the quality and safety of your motor vehicles

Our online store offers its customers a wide range of spare parts for motor vehicles, including switches for a scooter, the price of which will undoubtedly please you. Please note that transport performance largely depends on correct selection details. Our managers will help you purchase suitable spare parts for your scooter or moped, will quickly place an order and advise on issues of interest.

This question is usually asked by beginners when this electronic unit fails. But not all experienced drivers will answer this question with confidence. Many people generally think of an apparatus for connecting communication lines. In this article, we will try to explain why the switch is needed on a scooter, and what problems may be associated with this device.

Let's start with a general definition. So, the switch is a kind of controller (the main control element) of the ignition system in automotive and motor vehicles, which generates current pulses and feeds them to the spark plug to ignite the fuel in the engine combustion chamber.

It should be noted that in scooters with two-stroke engines the condenser ignition system is mainly used. It is used in almost all japanese scooters as well as motorcycle equipment from other Asian countries. The capacitor is an electronic element that is located in the switch, and it is due to it that the entire ignition system works as it should. The principle of operation of a capacitor is reduced to the following diagram. During engine start-up, the capacitor accumulates electrical energy. After the voltage in it reaches a certain level (from 100 to 400 volts, depending on the model of the scooter), electricity fed to the bobbin along the coil winding through a thyristor (special semiconductor device). Further, on the coil, the current is converted into a more powerful charge on the candle (6,000-20,000 volts), which ignites the fuel inside the engine, ensuring its start.

It would seem that the process of starting the engine is quite simple. However, it is the ignition that, as a rule, often causes problems with starting the engine. In other words, ignition is, perhaps, the weak link in motor vehicles, as it often fails unnoticed by the scooter owner and with enviable consistency. The reason for this unreliable ignition is quite simple. The fact is that on many scooters the ignition system is built into the general electrical circuit of the scooter, and when it is overloaded, the switch often burns out.

Therefore, when choosing a scooter, you should pay attention to how the ignition system works. And if the prospect of a systematic replacement of the switch scares you, then you should pay attention to those scooter models in which a separate electrical circuit is provided for the ignition unit. If you already own a scooter with a built-in ignition common system power supply, you already know how much it costs to replace the switch. For those who have not yet encountered such a problem, we will announce the order of prices: depending on the brand and model of the scooter, the cost of the switch can range from several hundred to several thousand rubles. To avoid unnecessary costs, you do not need to unnecessarily overload the scooter's electrical system - for example, do not put a bunch of additional equipment.

Friends, do not flatter yourself strongly. The Internet, in particular, this site is intended only to help you in solving a particular problem. And the rest will depend only on you, or rather only on your desire and nothing else.

What is a switch and why is it needed?

To put it simply, a switch is a kind of module (according to Feng Shui - a DC CDI or AC CDI module) in which electrical energy is accumulated, which at the right moment is supplied in the form of a pulse to the ignition coil, where it is multiplied many times and slips in the form of an electric spark between the electrodes.

Depending on the type of switches, the energy required to form eggs can be stored in the switch in two ways:

  • On AC CDI switches - the energy required to form a spark on the spark plug is first generated in the high-voltage coil of the generator and then, in the form alternating current enters the switch, where it accumulates in the capacitor and at the right moment in the form of a pulse enters the ignition coil
  • On switches of the DC CDI type - the energy required to form a spark on the spark plug in the form of direct current comes directly from the battery, where it is converted into alternating current, multiplied by voltage and goes to the capacitor

The switch power coils on the generator look something like this.

For the passage of a spark at the right time, a switch (in collective farm style - "hall sensor") is introduced into the design of the generator and others like it. A magnetic induction sensor is essentially a conventional alternator, only in miniature.

On the outside the generator rotor has a small ledge, when passing near the sensor - a small alternating pulse is formed in the sensor windings, which is fed to the switch thyristor - the thyristor opens and the energy accumulated in the capacitor enters the ignition coil

Tools

For work we need:

  • Tester with sound "dialing" mode and measuring range of DC up to 20V, AC - 2, 200V
  • Control light 3W

Switch test

In order not to waste time - the check should start with checking the electrical impulse that accumulates in the switch and at the right time goes to the ignition coil.

We take a control light and connect it with one end to the green ground wire, the second to the black and yellow wire of the ignition coil. We turn the engine with a starter.

  • If the light is off, we check the modules that ensure the operation of the switch
  • If the light comes on, the switch and the modules that ensure its operation are in good working order and the reason for the absence of a spark should not be looked for in the switch, mass or

With a working switch and modules that ensure its operability, a 3W light bulb in the engine cranking mode with a starter should be lit in the glowing floor

Weight check

If there is any suspicion of a malfunction of any scooter ignition module, the mass is first checked. Although, mass in two-wire wiring is a relative concept, but for now let's call it this.

We take the tester, put it into the "dialing" mode (diode icon or pictogram sound signal), we are looking for green wires on the switch - this is something other than a mass (according to Feng Shui - a negative wire), we touch the metal part of the engine with any tester probe, with another probe we poke into the green wires:

  • If there is mass, the tester will beep
  • If the mass is bad, the numbers will run on the tester display
  • If there is no mass, the tester will be silent, and there will be only zeros on the screen

Depending on what the tester shows you - troubleshoot or continue testing:

  • If the mass is bad, look for an open or oxidation in the wiring.
  • If there is no mass - look for a break or connect it directly from the engine
  • If there is mass, but there is no spark, we continue to check.

An example of a good mass: the tester beeps in the "dialing" mode, the display shows solid zeros

Power check

In order for a spark to slip between the electrodes of the candle, the capacitor of the switch must be charged from something. And it is charged either from the battery or from the generator. Means what? Right! We check if the switch is receiving power.

Before you start measuring the power, we determine what type of switch is on your scooter. Visually, DC CDI switches are twice as large as AC CDI. But this is not a precise criterion. The most accurate criterion - see the output of the high-voltage coil of the generator:

  • If it is not used, then this means that your scooter is equipped with a DC CDI switch.
  • If it is, then vice versa - your scooter is equipped with an AC CDI type switch

The output of the high-voltage coil of the generator is located in the same place as the output of the generator itself: we are looking for where the wires coming from the generator are connected to onboard network scooter and if one of the two wires with round terminals is not connected, then the coil is not used

DC CDI Type Switch Power Test

If you have the wire of the high-voltage coil of the generator hangs idle (provided that it was like this from the factory, and not after the intervention of some "guru"), we switch the tester to the mode of measuring direct current to the range of 20 V. We are looking for a wire on the switch nutrition. Usually this wire is black or gray, touch one probe of the mass, the other - the power wires:

  • If the display shows zeros, look for an open in the power wiring
  • If the voltage is significantly less than 12v - look for oxidation or check if your battery is charged
  • If the voltage is 12v or a little more, then everything is in order with the power supply and you can continue checking

Powered by this switch full order

Checking AC CDI Type Switch Power

We transfer the tester to the mode of measuring alternating current for the range of 200V. We touch the ground with one probe, the power wires with the second and turn the engine with the starter:

  • If the supply voltage is at least 60-65V - the power supply is normal
  • If the voltage is significantly less or absent, check the generator. The supply winding of the generator in the mode of cranking the engine with a starter must produce at least 60V, and at medium engine speeds - about 160V

Checking the generator sensor

The magnetic induction sensor is a key element of the ignition system. And if you suspect a malfunction in the ignition system, it should also be checked.

We switch the tester to the alternating current measurement mode for the 2V range. With one probe we touch the ground, with the second probe we touch the white-blue or red-yellow wire coming from the sensor and turn the engine with the starter.

  • If the numbers run on the screen, there is an impulse
  • If there are zeros on the display, check the sensor

There is a momentum

Let's summarize the above

First, we check with a light whether the switch generates an impulse or not:

  • If the light is on - the switch and modules that ensure its operation are 100% working
  • If the light is off, then the switch or some module providing its operation is screwed up. And in order to understand exactly that the switch is faulty, we need to check all the modules.
  • If the modules turn out to be in good working order, and the switch will not generate an impulse, then it is faulty and you can safely change it to a new one.

In conclusion, I would like to warn you against the temptation to take a knowingly working switch from someone and plug it in instead of your own. Yes, with this express method, a faulty switch will be identified immediately. If it really was defective, then a spark will immediately appear with a known serviceable one.

But how can we be 100% sure that the scooter wiring is in complete order and no one had time to shove their smart personality into it before you? and then the working switch will receive a "full butt". And then wake up to buy two switches - one for the one you asked for, the second for yourself. Do you need it?

A huge number of 4 tons of scooters are offered on the territory of Russia. In models budget class installed low-quality switches, which tend to burn out under the influence of increased load or moisture. Owners of more expensive equipment can also be affected by this issue, because with the help of switches, manufacturers limit maximum speed movement. Before doing any work, you should carefully read the features of the electronic filling of your vehicle... This will save a lot of money on contacting specialized masters, make the procedure as fast and comfortable as possible.

The main differences between switches

Products from Chinese manufacturers, as a rule, uses one of two types of switches - DC or AC. The physical feature of the former is much larger. The principle of energy storage for the transmission of a spark is also of a different nature. DC is used to accumulate spark accumulator battery(the switch is powered directly from a 12 volt battery). In the case of AC switches, this energy is supplied through the use of one generator coil (the switch is powered by a ~ 160 Volt coil). This is where the differences between the presented varieties end.

Features of the work

Before starting the assembly, it will not be superfluous to take a smartphone or digital camera with you to familiarize yourself with the correct pinout scheme. You can also go to profile Internet resources and find official images showing the connection diagram of the electronic filling. Do not forget to bring a complete set of electrical tools that you may need to complete the replacement.

Having found a switch, you need to specify its type. To do this, just connect a multimeter to the supply wire, start the ignition and look at the display readings. Before us will be DC-type only if power appears.

It also happens that food does not appear. In this case, you must select the AC test mode, choosing a range equal to 200 volts. Scroll power unit with a starter. In the case of AC switches, power will appear immediately.

Why is it important to determine the type of switch?

Some scooter owners (in particular, from the Yamaha company) often face the problem of correct identification. There are practically no official manuals, so the owners have to work blindly and believe in luck. Buying a switch that is not designed to be used on a scooter can have serious consequences. The first of these is the instantaneous failure of the part being replaced. There is no difference in what kind of switches are installed - DC on a scooter that supports only AC, and vice versa. The electronic filling will burn out instantly. In some cases, there was a failure of a number of other related elements of electronics - light bulbs, mini-radio, alarms, and so on. Not knowing which switch is installed on the scooter, owners are guaranteed to fly in for good money.

Before connecting a new switch on a scooter, it will not be superfluous to first familiarize yourself with the official manuals. In some cases, manufacturers indicate information about the installed switches on four-stroke scooters.

You can make the connection according to a special scheme, or you can do the work yourself, having previously photographed all the connection points of the connectors. Mindfulness and slowness are the main factors that determine the success of the work performed.

How to connect a switch in a four-stroke (video)

The switch is used to control low-voltage currents of the primary winding ignition coils.

Scooter Switch Types

Of the mass of types of switches, only three types are used for motor vehicles:

  • Switch with built-in high voltage generator (DC CDI)
  • Switch that needs a high voltage supply (AC CDI)
  • Switch coil

One of the most famous switches due to the ease of connection. The most common one has only 4 contacts for such wires:

  • Plus (12V)
  • Minus
  • Hall Sensor
  • Ignition coil

Not looking at simplicity, there are many switches of this kind. There are with and without a maximum speed limiter, with a change in the ignition timing, with additional contacts for a variety of needs. In particular, it is permissible to "hook" a side stand to some switches, when opening which engine will not spin up to revolutions, at which the clutch is activated. This is done in order to insure the driver against dangerous rash acts.

AC switch

It differs from DC switches in the ability to do without a stable current of 12V. It is arranged a little differently, because, in the presence of a more conventional design, it has a more complex option for connecting to an electrical circuit. Unlike DC switches, AC switches come in to a greater extent without a limiter of revolutions due to their small size and rather simple design, they can boast of the ability to work perfectly with a shortage of a number of nodes, without any DC switch will not be able to work in principle. Even if you remove the battery, relay-regulator, ignition lock, save only the high-voltage coil of the generator and the Hall sensor, and all the same, the scooter will start and drive. There are quite intricately organized switches of the provided type that are able to compete with the DC type, but this is a rarity. Without looking at the lack of need for direct current, AC is very much dependent on AC and the interconnection of the engine block with the frame, and if you burned or damaged one coil in the generator, which produces high voltage, the scooter will not start under any circumstances.

Ignition switch coil

The most complex type of switch. It connects in itself both the switch and the ignition coil, it does without a Hall sensor at all. It has been poorly studied due to its impenetrability and low prevalence.


Stock switch on scooter

Stock or original switch- this is the one that is installed on the vehicle from the factory. Its main superiority over others is that it is already designed for the equipment with which it functions, often with a limiter so that the engine does not develop revolutions that are dangerous to the life and resource of the main bearings, the entire crank mechanism, cylinder-piston groups and other structures and assemblies. The stock commutator is the primary source of a well-designed engine's durability, economy and durability. Those who take the risk of changing the factory switch to sports(tuning), he risks a lot. Even more are the risks of those who do not fully understand what they intend to do. Inexperienced installation of such parts and their subsequent use with conventional engine often lead to a decrease in the resource and the fatal end of the engine, sometimes on the same day.

Sports Switch

The key to a good sport commutator is to get the engine out of the rpm range. An understanding person will never install such a part on an unprepared engine. Such events are carried out in a complex and they are preceded by the change of a whole series of elements, only then everything will begin to work as needed. After such alterations, the progress of revolutions changes towards larger ones.

Switch with variable ignition timing

They are called to align the twisted torque and compensate for the power hunger in the required sections of the rpm. If before that the engine, suppose, pulled poorly in the zone of low and medium revolutions, now the commutator, well choosing ignition timing, this failure evens out, thereby providing more even dynamics and makes it possible to win in overclocking over its factory predecessor.