Support cardan shaft or the outboard bearing is an important part of the vehicle's transmission. It is located on the cardan shaft and is designed to support, rotate and provide linear movement of the shaft with minimal stress.
There are two types of outboard bearing - removable and non-removable. The first one can be replaced quite easily; if an element of a different type breaks down, you will have to change the entire cardan shaft.
Also, bearings differ in types:
- Slides
- Rolling
- Magnetic
- Dynamic
- Static
Bearing device
The suspension mechanism is a frame with a cylindrical hole, where a bushing is located, made of special anti-friction metal. The space between cardan shaft and the bearing is filled with grease, this allows the shaft to rotate easily. Lubricant reduces the frictional force of moving parts, thereby providing reliable performance support and extending its service life.
The outer and inner rings are working surfaces, they must have great strength and be made of high quality metal. Wear-resistant rubber in the shaft support dampens vibrations from cardan transmission... There is a bracket on the device, with which it is attached to the frame of the machine.
Support performance
- Resistance to radial and angular loads
- Vibration absorption
- Quiet operation
- Small in size
- The product can withstand operation in aggressive environments
- Easy to replace
Outboard bearing failure symptoms
A sign of a malfunction of the intermediate support of the propeller shaft is a hum, whistle or howl while the car is moving, it is most clearly audible when coasting, when after acceleration, release the gas. Strong vibration of the gimbal is also possible, which is transmitted to the driver's seat.
Do-it-yourself driveshaft support replacement
You can replace the outboard bearing not only in a car service, but also on their own, this is not a very difficult process in car repair.
This will require:
- Two open-ended keys, 13 and 12 mm
- Metal guide
- Hammer
- Circlip pliers
- Special bearing puller
- New cardan shaft support
Drive the car into inspection pit, turn off the engine, but leave the shift lever in the first gear position. In order for the car not to roll off the pit, it is necessary to put anti-roll mechanisms under the wheels.
It is recommended to lubricate all elements between the outboard bearing and the shaft with WD-40 grease before installation. When replacing the propeller shaft support, it is better to change the crosspiece, since they have the same service life.
The fasteners are bolted and must be unscrewed with a wrench. Then you need to pull out the flange that connects to the shank, after which you can remove the fasteners for the cardan support. To remove the propeller shaft, you need to flare the locks in the shape of the petals. The removed shaft is fixed in a vice, the bearing nut is unscrewed. Using a special puller, the fork is removed, then the bearing is gently hit with a hammer.
The installation site of the new support mechanism must be completely cleaned of dirt with a rag. Then the stopper is fixed, which is turned in the direction rear axle... A nut and a protective washer are installed, they must be centered. After the intermediate bearing of the propeller shaft has been replaced, the propeller shaft is reinstalled.
The cardan shaft support must be changed at least as often as its service life. But it should be remembered that it can become unusable due to aggressive use of the car as a whole.
Due to the long length of the propeller shaft, and often simply to increase the reliability of fixation and operation, an additional element is added to the transmission structure. This is an intermediate support, or as it is often called the outboard bearing of the propeller shaft - a special building block "Bracket-clamp-bearing" put on the pipe and fixed to the frame.
Characteristic weaknesses
The task of this element is to keep the gimbal in a certain spatial position, but with the ability to freely rotate around the axis. To prevent the outer cage from dangling in the clamp, it must be tightly fixed, but this will mean a constant transfer of physical and mechanical influences, both from the body and back. Therefore, in this place put (glued in) a ring made of special rubber, judging from the technical point of view - a vibration-insulating cushion.
It is the peeling of this "gasket" from the glass or bracket, or its destruction, that is the most frequent problem of the support, shocks, vibrations and other troubles begin, which, if ignored, will lead to more serious problems, up to a major breakdown.
The second most frequent problem is grease leakage. It can occur when the covers (seals) are damaged, as well as when the case is cracked. Sometimes the wrong choice of lubricant or “seasonal pleasures” can cause losses (leaks). severe frosts elastic seals "dubbed", and the grease, on the contrary, begins to thicken. With the arrival of spring, the outboard automatically starts to "snot", so periodically look at the body to see if there are any drips.
For many cars, the circuit is built in such a way that there is a close location of the exhaust system and the transmission. This neighborhood leads to the fact that the lubricant begins to "dry up" - it decreases in volume and changes in its characteristics. back side of this medal, excessive expansion during heating and extrusion of seals.
Due to insufficient lubrication, as well as simply due to aging, the components can also fail. It will not work to repair the suspended one - you can "treat" the promoter (if the problem is not too neglected), but it, like the vibration isolator, can only be changed.
"Symptoms of the disease"
The most common symptom of a malfunction is a dull hum when driving. But one very important circumstance should be noted here - the failed drive axle gearbox “sings” with approximately the same volume and in a similar tone. It is not uncommon for these two "soloists" to sing their arias in unison, so be sure to inspect carefully and identify the faulty part so you don't need to do unnecessary work. In addition to the named nuance, signs can be:
Knocking during gear changes, sometimes it can be so strong that you can feel it through the driver's seat;
Vibration of the cardan, also, by the way, can cause the feeling that you are in a vibrating chair.
A priori there is no ring backlash, so if there is one, then it's time to start repairing.
And as already said, renovation work in this situation, only one scenario is envisaged - the discarding of the old and the purchase of a new one. Therefore, let's move on to the search rules.
How to buy
Nobody has yet canceled compliance with the standards, so it is best to find an original pendant, even if it will take more time and money. But if it so happened that an urgent need to repair, and original spare parts out of stock, then at least pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations, as a rule, they indicate suitable analogues. Now to the check itself:
No chips deep scratches, there should be no stains. How there can be no traces of rough machining
Check how easily the rings turn relative to each other. Delays in some areas indicate poor processing of internal surfaces and / or balls
Be sure to make sure there is no backlash. This happens, Russian and chinese manufacturers, and here it is clearly not necessary to count on long years of operation.
When choosing analogs, do not chase too tempting price tags. They may indicate low quality and incomprehensible origin. Always ask the seller for official certificates
Not all manufacturers add lubricant during manufacture. If you stumbled upon one, then see if there is an instruction for laying it - if there is none, you should think about choosing another option, perhaps you just got a marriage
Finally, one more piece of advice on the topic - think a few times before taking PPs at auto dismantlers and generally used ones. They have an estimated service resource, and it is not a fact that the one that you are offered has not run out. And its visually good condition may turn out to be a misunderstanding that will be resolved literally in the first thousand of the run (and not in your favor). Plus, second-hand products may lack logos and articles, that is, you will not only not be confident in the manufacturer, but also in the technical conformity of the product, and external uniformity does not guarantee the same durability.
Replacement
It should be noted right away that some manufacturers make the outboard bearing of the propeller shaft non-removable in principle. And if you have just such a design and problems have begun with it that require replacement, then a "very joyful" event awaits you - the purchase of a universal joint with a bearing assembly. You can, of course, try to knock it down or cut it off with a grinder, but rather everything, this will lead to damage or deformation of the pipe. With the collapsible version, everything is simpler ...
To replace, most often it is necessary to remove the cardan together with the support - the bearing is seated tightly enough, and it is not always possible to pull it off by weight. The replacement process itself does not seem to be complicated - "removed and put", but when pressing out, try not to damage the pipe, and when installing a new element, do not use steel tools for direct contact. And do not forget that the installation must be carried out exactly in the intended place.
With a sufficiently "respectable age of the experimental" such "pleasant" moments as coking of the fasteners are possible, so stock up on a special liquid (in extreme cases, find vinegar - it also corrodes rust well). By the way, with general standard principles, some differences in transmissions different cars even one brand is still present. Therefore, find the instruction manual for the operation and maintenance of your particular model. You can also "go over" the Internet forums, where you can almost always find descriptions of processes (including unsuccessful ones).
You can buy the necessary support as a set or a bearing separately from us at Leader LLC. We also have other transmission elements - a crosspiece, a fork flange and a sliding fork, a propeller shaft tube and a cardan joint assembly. The quality of the goods is guaranteed, the prices are reasonable. For bulk orders, the cost is revised individually. Pickup is available from our Moscow warehouse, if there is no desire or opportunity to go by yourself, we will forward the purchase transport company (across Russia).
1 5337-2201006-20 Cardan shaft
2 5337-2202010 Shaft
3 53361-2202090 Clamp
3 53361-2202090 Clamp
4 201540 Bolt М12-6gх30
5 250514 Nut М12-6gх30
6 252137 Washer 12 OT
7 5337-2202087 Bracket
7 5337-2202087 Bracket
8 5432-2201010-10 Cardan shaft
9 250688 Nut М10х1-5Н6Н
9 250688 Nut М10х1-5Н6Н
10 252136 Washer 10 OT
10 252136 Washer 10 OT
11 371264 Bolt М10х1-6gх40
11 371264 Bolt М10х1-6gх40
12 5336-2202084-10 Bearing cage
13 200272 Bolt М8-6gх65
14 250510 Nut М8
15 252155 Washer 8L
16 5336-2202050 Flange
17 5337-2202015 Shaft
18 374964 Nut М42х2-5Н6Н
19 258086 Cotter pin
20 5336-2202059-10 Epiploon
21 264072 Oiler 1.1.Ts6xr.
22 5336-2202081-10 Cover
23 5336-2202085 Pillow of the intermediate support of the propeller shaft
24 6.312-A Bearing
25 250560 Nut М16-6Н
26 252017 Washer 16 OT
27 5336-2202062-10 Plate
28 5337-2202088 Bracket
29 202123 Bolt М16-6gх50
1 53229-2202015-30 Cardan shaft
2 5325-2202100-10 Flange with dust deflector
3 53205-2205026-10 Propeller shaft cross, assy
4 53205-2205042 Bearing seal
5 4325-2202084 Bearing cage
6 4325-2202085 Pillow
7 5325-2202090-01 Cover
7 5325-2202090-01 Cover
8 53205-2205023-20 Fork-flange
9 53205-2205040 Retaining ring
10 53205-2205041 Retaining ring
11 53205-2205044 Retaining ring
12 53205-2205045 Retaining ring
13 53205-2205046 Retaining ring
14 53205-2205049 Retaining ring
15 864006 Oiler 1.3.C6, GOST 19853-74
16 4612134565 Bearing 311A \u200b\u200bdeep groove ball bearing
17 864341 Plug KG 1/8 "
18 1/60446/21 Bolt М8-6gх70
19 1/61008/11 Nut М8х1.25-6Н
20 1/05166/77 Spring washer 8
21 870510 Special nut М39х2-6Н
22 14.1701243 Disc spring OD 70x40x4x1.5 GOST 3057-90
23 864176 Collar 70x92, assy
24 864180 Cuff with spring, assy
25 45104955000300 Bearing 804707 A1C10 roller yokeshaped with one outer ring
Is the outboard bearing humming, noisy, or collapsed? In this article I will describe how to change the outboard bearing of the propeller shaft for a gazelle.
The intermediate support is installed at the junction of the front and rear parts of the propeller shaft. Meet trucks with a large wheelbase, where two intermediate supports are installed at once. In our case, with the usual an elongated gazelle with a body of 4 meters , there is only one such bearing.
Noise, rustling from the bearing?
It is possible to identify the malfunction of the bearing by hanging one of the rear wheels (or both) and turning on the transmission with the engine running, listen to where the noise is coming from. Exercise caution and safety measures during such checks. Perhaps your rear axle gearbox or gearbox is making noise. If the culprit is the bearing prom. support, then remove it.
Watch the sound of a worn bearing on a removed cardan in the video, it will be heard in the cabin if you coast (it is well heard when driving along a wall or a fence on the road).
We disassemble the driveshaft
Before disassembly, the book proposes to mark the position of the shaft relative to the gearbox extension and the flange of the rear axle drive gear. We unscrew the four bolts securing the cardan to the rear axle flange and two bolts securing the intermediate support to the frame cross member. We take out the entire shaft from the extension of the rear gearbox housing. We mark the relative position of the cardan parts in order to put them in their place and not to upset the balance. Next, it is necessary to bend the antennae of the lock washer - to free access to the head of the tightening bolt. Unscrew it or twist it a few turns to get the U-shaped plate. Striking the fork with a hammer, separate the halves on the shaft splines. We knock down or pull together the support bearing from the seat.
We clean the splines of the shaft, the thread of the tightening bolt. Seat the bearing is inspected for wear. If the bearing has been noisy for a long time, it could wedge and turn in its place. In this case, it can be easily removed from the shaft and, when replaced, does not sit in tension. It is up to you to decide what to do with such wear (replacement of the entire shaft or repair). Personally, I welded on a few points around the circumference and, having processed them, achieved a tight fit of the bearing.
If the rubber frame of the support is intact, you can replace the bearing itself. It is the same for new and old-style supports - marking 6206 RS. Its cost in the store is from 90 rubles. An imported analogue, for example, from NSK (6206 DU), cost 420 rubles (as of the summer of 2014). The bearing is pressed into a metal cup (for a new type of support) or a rubberized bushing (for an old design).
Gimbal assembly
When assembling, we put mud washers on the bearing, lubricate the shaft splines, correctly align the parts of the universal joint, apply sealant to the bolt thread and wrap it, setting the U-shaped plate in place. Bend the tendrils of the lock washer onto the bolt head. We install the entire shaft in accordance with the marks in the gearbox and to the flange of the rear axle.
Import or ours. What is the bottom line
How much the quality of imported bearings differs from our domestic ones ... Maybe not in all units so !? For example, the front and rear hubs run well and do not cause worries, but the same attempts to replace bearings in the generator lead only to their next replacement, but already for import.
After replacing the bearing of the suspension support, the gazelle has already passed 80 thousand km in cargo transportation and the check on the removed cardan showed that it is in excellent condition. While earlier I had to change it every 20-30 thousand.
Outboard bearing this size is installed on the cardan shaft support of VAZ models from 2101 to 2107. There are probably no more common units where it is used. However, this is enough for the bearing to be "popular" enough, as a result of which there should not be any problems with buying it. It is produced at the following plants: SPZ-4, KZUP (Kursk plant of thrust bearings - 20 GPPs), VBF (Vologda - 23 GPPs) and 8 GPPs (now - Harp, Ukraine). It is not recommended to take a suspended bearing with a different marking, since it can be a camouflaged Chinese product that can break at any time. Estimated price (when buying in bulk) for a more or less acceptable in quality product manufactured by SPZ-4 - from 55 rubles, we do not recommend buying a bearing cheaper.
You can order such a bearing at the manufacturer's plant (SPZ-4) of this outboard bearing and if the order amount is large, it will be much more profitable than a company in your city.
The bearing is closed with rubber plugs, grease is added in advance, does not need maintenance.
An analogue of imported production has a number 62205 2RS (2RS1, 2RSR). Additional designation thermal gap - C3 (62205-2RS / C3 - analogue of our 76-180505). The best import brands are FAG (Germany), SKF (Sweden), SNR (Japan - France) and some others. Products of these brands are much more expensive and more reliable than others and cost from 400 rubles and more (the price depends on the manufacturer and modification). The cheapest of imported bearings (their quality is appropriate), FBJ have a price of about 100 rubles. Prices are indicated taking into account the choice of the optimal supplier! That is, more often than not, they will be slightly higher. If you are offered an "imported" bearing much cheaper, then this is most likely a product made in China or illiquid (the latter option is unacceptable, as the grease thickens over time).
Dimensions and specifications
Inner diameter - 25 mm;
Outside diameter - 52 mm;
Width - 18 mm;
Weight - 0.14 kg;
Number of balls - 9 pcs.;
Ball diameter - 7.938 mm;
Rated speed - 7500 rpm;
Dynamic loading capacity - 14 k / N.
The product is installed on the driveshaft of VAZ cars (2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 21213 and some others), tension roller tractors T-151K, KhTZ-120, KhTZ-121, other units, primarily agricultural machinery.
Bearing diagram 180505 (62205-2RS)
Where could I buy
To find a quality product, especially if you want to buy bearings in bulk, you should contact the official representatives of the manufacturers (). Where to buy imported bearings can be found in (for each brand, representatives in our country are indicated, where the prices are the lowest, and the quality is guaranteed).
