It's no secret that the lucky owners of the Europanel on the VAZ-2110 faced the problem of poor airflow windshield... This is due to the fact that the basis of the panel has become different and now the air flow is blowing not on the windshield, but parallel to the glass. You can feel the flow of air hitting the driver's forehead ...
Many are struggling with this problem, and many drive like this. I've seen some people glue the D-shaped seal to the panel for a long time to correct the air flow. Someone changes the base of the panel to the base of the old model.
They told me on Drive that you can use the windshield deflector from the Priora. I liked this option more than anyone else.
The deflector has an article number - 21705325262 and the name is the instrument panel insert (arrow) of the VAZ-2170.
I didn't take photos right away, I just took photos of the ready-made solution on the spot. Found in the internet, schematically depicted what and how.
This is what the Priorovsky deflector looks like:
I put it on the panel and realized that it was necessary to cut off the latches from inside deflector, there are four of them:
I marked places for screws on the panel, there are three of them. I nailed the plastic for the screws a little.
I also decided that for a better fit and in order to avoid unnecessary squeaks, I glued one side of the deflector on the inside with a carpet, and the other with double-sided tape. With double-sided tape I glued the part that is superimposed on the panel (shown in red), with a carpet I glued the second side, which is closer to the glass (shown in brown).
Then he put it down, aligned it with the center and screwed it onto the screws. The deflector, as it was, is not striking. Photo of the deflector in place:
The redirection of the air flow to the windshield became noticeable. Now the air blows not parallel to the glass, but onto the glass. I think the result has been achieved.
You can put furniture plugs on the screws, which I will do in the future.
The only negative I noticed is that the deflector reflects onto the windshield. But it may depend on the glass. My glass, especially on a sunny day, reflects the entire panel.
Before talking about why the windshield blowing does not work, we will consider the principle of operation and the device of this system. Structurally, the ventilation and heating system of VAZ models of the "Samara" family is designed so that air enters the cabin through the slots at the top dashboard, center and side nozzles, leg heating vents and through the lowered door glazing. A fan is provided to increase the air flow in the system.
Note ... Some Samar models were equipped with 2108-1 series heaters. This system is distinguished by an almost horizontal position of the radiator and a different distribution of air flows. In the intermediate position of the damper, the hot air flow enters from below. As a result, warmer air is supplied to the legs, and a colder stream enters the glazing.
Design features
Electric motor ... The fan collector motor is powered direct current, for more information about electric fans, see the website. There is a four-position regulator on the dashboard to control the fan speed. The change in the speed of rotation of the electric motor occurs by connecting or disconnecting additional resistors. When you turn on the motor directly (without resistors), the speed will be maximum. The electric motor is not repaired and, if it fails, is replaced together with the fan wheel. The only thing that can be done to service the engine is to clean the manifold if necessary.
Heater ... The heating of the air supplied to the windshield blowing is carried out by the heater, which is powered by the engine cooling system (SOD). The radiator is mounted in a casing and is made in the form of two tanks (there is a partition on the right) and two rows of aluminum alloy tubes. The flow of hot liquid entering the radiator is formed by the SOD pump and is regulated by a special tap, which is attached to the bulkhead. The heater operation is controlled by 2 air flow distribution knobs, a radiator valve control lever and a damper.
Poor windshield blowing
One of the problems of the ventilation and heating system of VAZ models is the weak blowing of the wind glazing. Many owners complaining about design flaws, are trying to complete the revision or seek help from the specialists of the service centers. However, in most cases, if there is poor windshield blowing, the problem is not in some flaws, but in elementary adjustment.
As practice shows, weak airflow windscreen primarily due to the damper. Or rather, all the problems are due to the fact that the choke control cable is loose or flew off the lever. You just need to pull it up or put it in place.
As we said above, in order to ensure normal blowing of the windshield of Kalina or another VAZ model, it is necessary first of all to check the tension of the damper control cable. To do this, you first have to remove the left screen of the dashboard, having previously unscrewed all the mounting bolts.
If you see that the tension in the cable is not enough to completely close the damper, you need to shorten it slightly. We need an awl and wire cutters. First you need to remove the bracket. Along its edges there are semicircular cutouts, into one of which we insert an awl and carefully remove the tip from the end of the cable. Then we bite off one turn with pliers, and then we twist the rest. After that we put the end of the cable back in.
To make sure that the actions are correct, we are testing the operation of blowing the windshield. We turn on the stove and control the airflow. If the air flow is weak and cold, you can repeat the procedure and bite off another turn of the cable end.
Note. Bite off two or more at oncethere is no turn of the tip of the shutter control cable. You can overdo it and ruin everything. It is better to do everything gradually.
After completing the adjustment of the cable tension, put the panel in the reverse order.
Modification of the windshield blowing system VAZ-2113 (2114, 2115)
Almost every owner of Samara complains about uneven airflow in the cabin. First of all, this is expressed by the fact that hot air goes from the central air ducts (from the torpedo) to the windshield, and a cold stream comes from the side nozzles. This situation is most pronounced when the heater temperature drops, when the control lever is moved to the left.
As a rule, service centers do not solve this problem. The masters claim that this is the principle of the system. However, you can fix it yourself.
First, we dismantle the torpedo cover, which is installed on the left. Not far from the gas pedal there is a throttle control cable secured with a bracket. The clamp should be loosened and the cable pulled down. Then we fix the bracket and put the right flap control lever to the left until it stops, and the left one to the right to the end. In this case, a warm stream will be supplied to the windshield from the side air ducts.
However, in this case, the desired temperature control of the windshield blowing flow will not be realized in all modes. When the lever is shifted to the left, in some position it will still do cold air... This is due to the fact that the lever simultaneously controls the damper and the heater tap. The damper, in turn, opens the door to cold air flow.
To prevent this from happening, disconnect the cable that controls the damper. To do this, first dismantle the torpedo cover on the right and find the engine that controls the temperature. Two cables are connected to it. We select the cable located to the right and pull it so that the damper moves to the position of maximum heating. After that, we bend the cable at the attachment point. The flap will now always be in this position. The cable should be bite off with pliers, leaving 15 mm. Otherwise, the extra length will interfere with the movement of the engine. After such a modification, a stream of warm air will flow into all air ducts, and the temperature will be smoothly regulated in any position of the lever.
Poor windshield blowing VAZ-2107
The disadvantages of the VAZ-2107 ventilation and heating system are known to every owner. Many craftsmen mount instead of a standard electric motor more powerful motor, which is used in the ventilation and heating system of the VAZ-2108. However, this modification is ineffective.
To achieve the desired result, experts recommend completely redesigning the standard stove, installing not only the electric motor 08, but the snail assembly. To do this, you need to change the bottom of the stove so that a snail can be built into it. However, this procedure is rather complicated and time consuming. If you wish, you can find on the Internet detailed descriptionhow to finalize the windshield blowing of the VAZ-2107 with your own hands.
One of the reasons for insufficient windshield blowing can be a loose closing of the lower cover of the fan cowl. In this case, part of the air flow goes down to heating the legs. To fix this problem, you need to install a small latch. For example, those that are used in the manufacture of furniture. It is also possible to mount a bolt lock. To do this, we drill in the lower corner of the fan casing, where the cover lever is located, a hole for a bolt with a diameter of up to 5.0 mm. We fix the bolt with a nut. We drill a similar hole in the cover handle. Such a small refinement will allow the lid to be securely fixed in the closed position.
People, help with practical advice. Such a situevina: there is almost no air flow through the left air duct. I have already disassembled the stove twice, climbed into it with all sorts of wires - I thought it was clogged - no shit, everything flies through, and the air there, even if you crack, DOESN'T GO !!! Until I drive 500-700 meters from the house in the morning (I warm up the car, while I clean the snow, then I go right away) the glass has time to freeze. have to wield a scraper from the inside at the traffic light.
Most funny!
On the right are all tip-top.
If it is important: I did not remove the air duct (it is clamped between the steering shaft and the body, the nuts are painted over, but for some reason I did not dare to unscrew them), but poked at it like this.
Friends advise to stick there a cooler from a processor or a system unit. But why fence a vegetable garden? Maybe someone had this? How was it treated?
But the duct should be removed. The fact is that, where the air duct is adjacent to the stove, there is a damper in the stove body in this place, right at the air outlet from the stove. So it may be that this damper is jammed for some reason. Or maybe everything is simpler - it just won't wear or the air duct has jumped off the stove.
Valery.
2005-02-03 02:42
I removed the fan and separately these same dampers, checked
how they work. Everything was OK. Then, when I put it in place, I checked it again. There was such an opportunity - he crawled up and felt with his hand from below how the shutters were moving. The fact that they sat down correctly and tightly -100%! I heard about this rake and double-checked it.
2005-02-03 18:05
Re: The left side window freezes, the left air duct does not work well on the VAZ 2105.
I myself faced exactly the same problem. I suffered for a long time. I even broke the flap on the stove itself, which opens from switching the lever " side windows - windshield. "After removing the flap, it began to blow on the right side, but still weakly (if a blizzard of boiling water is blowing at the folder on the Golf). I drove for a long time with a scraper. But I found suitable height and inserted 2 pieces, right behind the blind, which you direct the flow where necessary. I did not fasten them with anything. They were well pressed by this blind. I connected them to the red wire on the stove. And now I have a weak but badly poor blowing of both glasses . About the normal blowing of side windows on 2105, I finally did not hear, it's just a design imperfection. And of course, for maximum effect, as it was repeatedly written here.Fully open the air intake damper from the street, the one with the blue stripe on the torpedo (below I wrote even how to get to it from under the hood by hand if it gets wedged or the cable is poorly adjusted). So that nothing was clogged under the hood. Check for clogged ventilation ducts in the back of the racks rear window... I tore off the upper part of the fastening of the trim in the cabin, cleaned it on both sides (both from the passenger compartment and from the street, removing the plastic grill, thanks to Macaron2112 for the help :))) and left these trims from the end with the adjacent upper part, placing inconspicuous pieces of foam there ... The ventilation has become much better, and this is not with the cleanest stove. At speed, you feel the movement of warm air in the cabin. Today I went to the first long-distance race at -15 on the street. It's warm in the car, despite the cracks in the rotten doors, the fan just turned off. Rode not naturally blown. Now I'm thinking about cutting holes in the rear pillars of the pillars and sticking decorative ventilation grilles there. And behind them, at the same time, put coolers from the power supply unit in the system unit, and turn it on when everything starts to fog up and freeze :). Well, take, for example, 2106, there is no blowing of the side windows at all, but with normal ventilation, nothing freezes anywhere :) Obviously due to good ventilation and blowing the interior itself. As someone wrote here, if you close the windows and doors in the car and turn on the fan at 1 speed, then the rear ventilation holes should blow, if the second, then the wind should blow from there. Good luck
2005-02-03 02:55
Duc I'm not complaining about the temperature in the cabin when the engine is warm in the cabin. How to use the stove correctly
i was enlightened even when the thermometer was +20 - so in the car I did not freeze a day.
The only problem is that air does not go into this duct.
I think I still have to shove a fan into it right in front of the damper, so that it remains possible to regulate the wind-side flows.
I have no trash under the hood - nothing is jammed. How many rags I do not store there. But I don’t know what I have with the ventilation in the back, but when there’s time to do the stove again, I’ll climb in there too.
Thank you.
2005-02-03 19:35
Re: The left side window freezes, the left air duct does not work well on the VAZ 2105.
This is a normal situation. It is imperative to close the flow to the legs. On the right, it blows normally, and on the left, the damper in the air duct is removed.
2005-02-03 08:03
Nope! You open, close - this does not affect the rotok from the left air duct in any way: - ((
2005-02-03 19:38
Re: Re: The left side glass freezes, the left air duct does not work well on the VAZ 2105.
I have had quite a successful experience with a stove upgrade. If I remember everything correctly, the rachazhok is responsible for the air flow to the windshield and side windows, but separately, either the windshield or the side windows, if you put it in the middle, it will be bad to blow both of them. I recommend removing the side windows blowing flaps and using the lever for blowing to the legs and on the windshield for this, you need to make a traction from a suitable wire and connect the lower and upper flaps with it, since they are both on the left side of the stove, this is not difficult to do. The length of the thrust is selected by eye, while the adjustment lever must be moved to the "windshield" position and the airflow damper at the legs must be fully closed. After all, a stove with improved consumer properties is obtained. 1. The side windows are blown constantly. 2. Now you can smoothly adjust the windshield-leg air flow using the lever on the panel. If it does not help, try to pressurize the joints of the stove panels (to tell the truth, I didn't need it). Well, if this does not help, then remember that this is a "Classic" type and it will become warmer and better seen. Good luck.
2005-02-03 20:19
Why remove the flaps? They're made adjustable!
When I was assembling all this designer, I specially installed the dampers so that in the "blowing the frontal" position the dampers did not reach the seal and poisoned the air into the deflectors (slots about 1.5 cm), and when you transfer the blower to the "side" position, then flaps open to a larger angle. But it didn't save me!
2005-02-03 20:54
Re: The left side window freezes, the left air duct does not work well on the VAZ 2105.
At one time I was engaged in air ducts on the "four" (although the panel is "seven", but in my opinion the difference is not big). He pushed the leaking heater tap on this one. In all the fault, in my opinion, is in the connection of the air ducts to the stove. The right access is free and it is quite easy to snap it onto the plastic of the stove, but the left one is quite problematic. Plus, together the connections are air flow control dampers, which greatly complicates the installation procedure (on the left one, during installation, I even broke the damper - I had to change it). As a result, having worn out and so did not fully snap into the entire air duct, I left this occupation. As a result, the right glass is transparent, and the left one is only half.
2005-02-03 20:32
I already wrote. All "stopudovo" is connected and rechecked by palpation (ie felt) and sniffed. :-))
