DRL not all diodes are lit. All connection diagrams for daytime running lights

Amendments to the rules have been in effect on the territory of the Russian Federation for more than 8 years road traffic (SDA), according to which a moving vehicle in the daytime must be marked with dipped beam headlights, fog lamps (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). The use of head and fog lights for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made modules. running lights and install them yourself in your car. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict applicable laws?

The nuances of turning on the running lights

Basic instructions for installation technical parameters and the connection of running lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional diagram of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights automatically turn on when the ignition key is turned (starting the engine). At the same time, they should be automatically turned off if the headlights are turned on.

Paragraph 5.12 of the specified standard states that headlamps (FGS) should be switched on only after the dimensions are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When self-connection DRL this feature must be taken into account.

Correct connection of DRL is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to remember about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, resistors play the role of a current limiter, however, due to voltage drops, resistors cannot limit the current at one level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the connection diagram for running lights is extremely necessary. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant drops onboard voltage. Some car enthusiasts claim that it is possible to connect running lights without a stabilizer.

Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because DRLs on LEDs regularly shine for months without any stabilization ...

However, this statement is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each voltage jump on the LED module, more than 12 V appears, the direct current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the emitting crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - from afar to warn the drivers of oncoming vehicles, and over time they will begin to flicker and fail.

Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means throwing out at least several hundred rubles every year for new modules and wasting time replacing them.

For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without a regulator.

The simplest scheme

The most simple circuit switching on DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the "+" terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in a convenient place. In this form, the circuit has a significant drawback. The LED running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of other headlights, which means that it does not meet the requirements of GOST.

Inclusion through dimensions or low beam

The second version of the DRL connection scheme involves using the side lamp power circuit. For this, the positive wire from the navigation lights is directly connected to the "+" from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the "+" of the side light, which is electrically neutral at the moment. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the "+" battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the body, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp spiral remains extinguished.
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the plus of the size, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, the current flows through the side light bulbs.

There are several disadvantages in this circuit solution:

• running lights remain in operation with the engine off, which is contrary to current regulations;
• the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
• the circuit will not work correctly if powerful SMD LEDs are placed in the DRL, the rated current of which is commensurate with the current of the lamp;
• for safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.

This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the "+" of the battery, but to the "+" of the ignition switch, thereby getting rid of the first drawback.
Some motorists use circuits for switching on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, and in other cases they work. In addition to the above disadvantages, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic rules.

When the car is parked at night, parking lights are used to indicate it, the use of DRL traffic rules is prohibited.

Connection via a 4-pin relay from a generator or oil sensor

The following two methods have a common basis and imply that the daytime running lights work only after the engine is started. The scheme for switching on the DRL from the generator is based on switching a four-contact relay and a reed switch.
The DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:

• 85 - for the positive wire to the dimensions;
• 86 - for any reed switch output;
• 87 and the second output of the reed switch - to the "+" of the battery.

After checking the reliability of all contacts, they proceed to setting up. To do this, start the engine and, moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its operation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermotube and fixed in the found place with the help of nylon ties.

At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and the relay are closed, supplying the supply voltage to the LEDs of the running lights. In this case, the size lamps remain off, since the current through the relay coil is small to light them.

In the absence of a reed switch, you can power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, the 86th contact is connected to the oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated.
Both schemes have common disadvantage... They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.

Connection via 5 pin relay

Now it's time to learn how to connect the running lights via a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most versatile, and is assembled to eliminate the disadvantages of the previous options.
First, about connecting a relay for DRL:

• 30 - to positive terminals of LED modules;
• 85 - to the positive wire of the marker lamp;
• 86 - on the car body;
• 87а - to "+" from the ignition lock;
• 87 - do not connect (insulate).

The circuit with a five-contact relay works as follows. When you turn the key, +12 V voltage is supplied to the DRL, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close the inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRL will go out and the dimensions will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and SDA and can work with parking lights even based on LEDs.

However, the circuit still has one negative point - the DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition switch, but do not start the car, the DRLs will burn.

Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to correctly connect the DRL through a five-contact relay, it will be necessary to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.

This switching option is interesting in that the path of current flow through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in headlights with dimensions and DRLs.

DRL control unit

The most reliable and simplest is the option of connecting the DRL without a relay, but using a special navigation light control unit. It ensures that the DRL is turned on after starting the engine, guarantees safe work, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamp, including LED.

Unfortunately, among all the variety of industrially manufactured DRL blocks, the overwhelming majority does not comply with GOST and has a mediocre build quality.

This concerns, first of all, products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all areas.

Among all the variety, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight + DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight + control unit was developed by the Russian radio engineer Isachenkov Fedor, taking into account all the features of the car's on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:

• there is a built-in voltage stabilization;
• full compliance with GOST;
• the maximum long-term load power is 36 watts (much less is required for DRL);
• the simplest connection diagram.

In addition to the above points, the DayLight + unit is universal and is suitable for all vehicles with a 12 volt on-board network, and also has good quality assembly and a high degree of protection against moisture and dust.
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the above-described advantages of the DayLight + unit, however, German control units are supplied only in conjunction with daytime running lights and have a higher cost.

Read the same

Today, daytime running lights are a mandatory type of optics that must be equipped with all cars used in the territory of the Russian Federation. Since no light source can work forever, our compatriots often face the problem of diode failure. In this article we will tell you how to repair DRL with your own hands and in what cases it needs to be done.

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Common DRL problems

Why do daytime running lights burn out:

1. Due to wear and tear. This reason is one of the most common and it is caused by the fact that diodes over time simply work out their service life. There is no way to avoid this. Unless you can put on a car of better quality DRLs, the service life of which is longer, but the wear of the devices cannot be prevented.
2. As a result of exposure to moisture. Diodes can burn out due to permanent work in moisture conditions. Usually, DRLs are placed on bumpers, so when operating a car in wet weather, it will not be possible to avoid water getting on the bulbs.
3. The need to repair the running lights may arise due to the burnout of the diode elements. As a rule, this problem is caused by the fact that for normal work DRLs require 12 volts, while generators are modern cars generate about 14-14.5 volts. Of course, this is too high a voltage for daytime running lights, so they can fail for this reason quite quickly (the author of the video on self-repairing daytime running lights at home is Artem Kvantov).

Repair and assembly instructions for running lights

If the DRLs on your car stopped working, this is not a reason to throw them away and put new ones. You can always try to repair the running lights - this way you can save money and gain skills in repairing optics. The repair procedure itself includes several stages - dismantling and opening, replacement of failed elements, as well as the subsequent assembly of the structure.

DRL repair is carried out as follows:

1. First you need to dismantle the optical elements from the machine. Depending on the design features car, as well as the installation location of the running lights, you may need to remove the bumper. Or the removal of optics can be carried out on the installed bumper, see the situation. When the LED lights are in your hands, you need to carefully dismantle the glass from the module.
   If the layer of sealant holds the glass weakly, then it will be easy to dismantle it, but if you cannot remove the glass without effort, then use a household hair dryer. Exposure to heat will soften the sealant. After dismantling the glass, you need to disconnect the board from the body of the running lights, where the diode elements are installed.
2. In the next step, you can start repairing the diodes themselves. First, you should clean the circuit itself and the optics housing, remove all sealant. Then you will need to determine exactly which of the diode elements have burned out in order to know which lamps need to be replaced.
   Use three AAA batteries to pinpoint a burnt out light bulb. Depending on the design, diode bulbs can have one or two chips. After the failed elements are found, you can start repairing them.
3. It should be borne in mind that the diode bulbs that must be replaced are called emitters; if necessary, they can be bought at any thematic store or on the radio market. For installation, purchase additional thermal grease. Remove the burnt-out elements and solder new LEDs instead. Since you are working with a disassembled flashlight module, you can grind the surface of the case itself, if necessary.
   This procedure will make it possible to provide more optimal contact with the light bulb, respectively, their glow should be more stable. After that, apply the thermal paste evenly.
4. When the replacement of the LED bulbs is completed, you can start installing the circuit, at this stage fix it as tightly as possible to prevent it from peeling off in the future. For a more even distribution of thermal paste over the surface, move the board in different directions. If the design of the modules provides for the use of bolts, then fix the circuit with them. Further, the glass of the module should be installed on the used sealant and securely fixed. If bolts are used in the structure, then they must also be tightened.
   To eliminate the possibility of water getting into the structure, make sure that after assembly there are no slots and gaps in the module structure, or any holes. In addition, for safer operation, it is also necessary to seal the wiring on the case.
5. When the sealant is completely dry, the LED module can be replaced. Connect the wires and securely fix the DRL at the installation site. Check that the bulbs are working.

Issue price

As for the cost, it all depends solely on the quality of the purchased products. As you know, Chinese

the gaer is wrong, DRLs are used without dimensions, and self-installation allowed on the vehicle out of production! !!!

Daytime Running Lights, what should they be?
Rummaged through the i-net, questions remained ...

DRL - vehicle lamps, directed forward and used to increase its visibility when driving in the daytime.
SDA: clause 19.5. During daylight hours, dipped-beam headlamps or daytime running lights must be switched on on all vehicles in motion for the purpose of their identification.
SDA: clause 19.4. Fog lights can be used:
...
instead of dipped headlights in accordance with paragraph 19.5 of the Regulation.

GOST R 41.48-2004 (UNECE Regulations N 48)
Uniform provisions concerning the certification of vehicles for the installation of lighting and light-signaling devices
6.19 Daytime running light
6.19.1 Installation
Optional on cars. Prohibited on trailers.
6.19.2 Number
Two.
6.19.3 Installation diagram
There are no special prescriptions.
6.19.4 Placement
6.19.4.1 Width: The point on the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis which is farthest from the vehicle's median longitudinal plane shall not be more than 400 mm from the extreme outer edge of the vehicle.
The distance between the inner edges of the two visible surfaces must be at least 600 mm. This distance may be reduced to 400 mm if the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1300 mm.
6.19.4.2 In height - at a distance of 250 to 1500 mm above the ground level.
6.19.4.3. Length - at the front of the vehicle. This requirement is deemed to be met if the emitted light does not interfere with the driver directly or indirectly as a result of reflection from the rear-view mirrors and / or other reflective surfaces of the vehicle.
6.19.5 Geometric visibility
Horizontal angle beta \u003d 20 ° outward and inward. : o
Vertical angle alpha \u003d 10 ° up and down from the horizontal. : o
6.19.6 Direction
Forward.
6.19.7 Functional wiring diagram
If fitted, the daytime running lights shall turn on automatically when the engine start / stop control is in the on position. It must be possible to activate and deactivate the operation automatic activation daytime running lights without the aid of a tool.
Daytime running lights should turn off automatically when the headlights are turned on, except when the headlights are turned on for a short period of time to signal road users.
6.19.8 Tell-tale
Optional closed loop.
6.19.9 Other regulations
Not.

Address: Yekaterinburg
Posts: 3,171
Well, I hope everything is pretty sane here:

After November 20, 2010, the text of paragraph 19.5 of the road traffic regulations will be significantly reduced, however, the group of vehicles that it will cover will increase significantly:

19.5. During daylight hours, dipped-beam headlamps or daytime running lights must be switched on on all vehicles in motion for the purpose of their identification.

The dipped headlights should now be on on all vehicles and always. He also had an alternative - the use of daytime running lights, which are always on.

With regard to fog lamps, paragraph 19.4 has undergone minor changes:

19.4. Fog lights can be used:
-in conditions of insufficient visibility with a near or high beam headlights;
- in the dark on unlit sections of the road, together with the dipped or main beam headlights;
- instead of the dipped headlights in accordance with paragraph 19.5 of the Regulation.

therefore fog lights are also an alternative to low beam.

Let's summarize. After November 20, 2010, each vehicle at least one of the listed lighting devices must be turned on: dipped beam, daytime running lights, fog lights.
__________________

Currently, LEDs are being intensively introduced into our lives. The main problem is how to power it. The fact is that the main parameter for the durability of an LED is not the voltage of its power supply, but the current that flows through it.

For example, red LEDs in terms of supply voltage can range from 1.8 volts to 2.6 volts, white ones from 3.0 to 3.7 volts. Even in the same batch of the same manufacturer, LEDs with different operating voltages can be found.

The nuance is that LEDs based on AlInGaP / GaAs (red, yellow, green - classic) withstand overcurrent quite well, and LEDs based on GaInN / GaN (blue, green (blue-green), white) when overloaded on current, for example, 2 times live ... 2-3 hours !!! So, if you want the LED to burn and not burn out within 5 years, take care of its power supply.

If we install LEDs in chains (serial connection) or connect in parallel, we can achieve the same luminosity only if the current flowing through them is the same.

I also want to draw your attention to the fact that LEDs are very afraid of reverse voltage, it is very low 5-6 volts, reverse current pulses (in cars) can significantly reduce the service life.

So how to make the simplest current stabilizer?

To do this, we take if you need to stabilize the current within up to 1 ampere or LM317L if you need to stabilize the current up to 0.1 A.

This is how LM317 stabilizers look with an operating current of up to 1.5 A.

And so LM317L with an operating current of up to 100 mA.

For those who do not know Vin - this is the voltage supplied here, Vout - from here we get ...., and Adjust is the adjustment input. In a nutshell, the LM317 is a regulated output voltage regulator.

The minimum output voltage is 1.25 volts (this is if Adjust is "put" directly on the ground) and up to the input voltage minus our 1.25 volts. T.K. the maximum input voltage is 37 volts, then you can make current stabilizers up to 37 volts, respectively.

In order to turn the LM317 into a current stabilizer, only 1 resistor is needed!
The connection diagram looks like this:

From the formula at the bottom of the figure, it is very easy to calculate the resistor value for the required current. That is, the resistance of the resistor is equal to - 1.25 divided by the required current. For stabilizers up to 0.1 ampere, the power of the 0.25 W resistor is quite suitable.

Current (specified current for a standard series resistor)	Resistor resistance	Note
20 mA	62 Ohm	standard LED
30 mA (29)	43 Ohm	"Superflux" and the like
40 mA (38)	33 Ohm
80 mA (78)	16 Ohm	four-crystal
350 mA (321)	3,9 Ohm	monovalent
750 mA (694)	1,8 Ohm	three-watt
1000 mA (962)	1,3 Ohm	5 W

And now an example with all the above said. Let's make a current stabilizer for white LEDs with an operating current of 20 mA, the operating conditions of the car (now light tuning is so fashionable ....).

For white LEDs, the operating voltage is 3.2 volts on average. In a car (passenger) onboard voltage ranges (again on average) from 11.6 volts in battery mode and up to 14.2 volts when the engine is running. For russian cars let us take into account emissions in the "return" (and in forward direction up to 100! volt).
Only 3 LEDs can be turned on in series - 3.2 * 3 \u003d 9.6 volts, plus 1.25 drop on the stabilizer \u003d 10.85. Plus a diode from a reverse voltage of 0.6 volts \u003d 11.45 volts.

The resulting value is 11.45 volts below the lowest voltage in the car - that's good! This means that the output will always be our 20 mA, regardless of the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network. To protect against surges of positive polarity, we put a 24-volt suppressor after the diode.

P.S. Select the number of LEDs so that the stabilizer remains as much as possible less stress (but not less than 1.3 volts), this is necessary to reduce the dissipated power on the stabilizer itself. This is especially important for high currents. And do not forget that for currents from 350 mA and above LM ka will require a radiator.

PICTURE 1

You don't need to install a Z1 suppressor or a zener diode for cheap LEDs, but a diode for a car is required. I recommend installing it even if you just connect LEDs with a damping resistor. I think it is unnecessary to describe how to calculate the resistance of the resistor for LEDs.

The number of LEDs in the chain must be selected taking into account your operating voltage, minutes of voltage drop across the Zener diode minus the diode.

For example: You need to connect white LEDs in the car with an operating current of 20 mA. Note 20 mA is the operating current for FIRM expensive LEDs !!! Only branded ones guarantee such a current, so if you do not know the exact origin, choose a current in the region of 14-15 mA.

This is in order not to be surprised later why the brightness dropped so quickly, or in general why they burned out so quickly. This is also true for high-power LEDs. Because what is marked on the product is not always brought to us.

Question 1- how many can be included in sequence? For white LEDs, the operating voltage is 3.0-3.2 volts. Let's take 3.1. The minimum operating voltage on the stabilizer (based on its reference 1.25) is approximately 3 volts. Diode drop 0.6. From here we sum up all the voltages and get the minimum operating voltage above which the current stabilization mode begins at a given level (if lower, the current will be lower, respectively) \u003d 3.1 * 3 + 3.0 + 0.6 \u003d 12.9 volts. For auto minimum voltage on the network 12.6 is normal.

For 20 mA white LEDs, you can turn on 3 pieces, for a 12.6 volt network. Considering that when the engine is on, the normal operating voltage of the network is 13.6 volts (this is nominal, in other versions it may be higher !!!), and the operating LM317 up to 37 volts, everything is normal.

R1 \u003d 125 / Ist
where R1 is the resistance of the current setting resistor in Ohms.
1.25 - reference (minimum stabilization voltage) LM317
Ist is the stabilization current in Amperes.

We need a current of 20 mA - we translate into amperes \u003d 0.02 Amps.
We calculate R1 \u003d 1.25 / 0.02 \u003d 62.5 Ohm.

We accept the nearest value of 62 Ohm.

A few more words about group switching on of LEDs. Ideal is a series connection with current stabilization.

LEDs are basically zener diodes with very low reverse operating voltages. If there is a possibility of interference high voltage from nearby high-voltage wires it is necessary to shunt each LED with a protective diode. (for reference, many manufacturers, especially for high-power diodes, already do this by mounting a protective diode into the product).

Resistors are needed to equalize currents in circuits and are ballast loads in case of damage to LEDs in the array.

How to calculate the dropping resistor value for an LED. The calculation is carried out according to Ohm's law.

The current in the circuit is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance of the circuit.
I led \u003d V pit / for the resistance of the diode and resistor.
we do not know the resistance of the resistor and diode, but we know our operating current and the voltage drop across the LED. For low-power LEDs, a current of 20 mA must be taken

Knowing the drop across the LED, you can calculate the remainder of the voltage across the resistor.

For example. The supply voltage is V pit \u003d 9 volts. We connect 1 white LED drop on it 3.1 volts. The voltage across the resistor will be \u003d 9 - 3.1 \u003d 5.9 Volts.

We calculate the resistance of the resistor
R1 \u003d 5.9 / 0.02 \u003d 295Ω.
We take a resistor with a close higher resistance of 300 ohms.

And other daytime running lights are of good quality. But, as for the so-called “no name” products, the quality leaves much to be desired. Therefore, in the process of working with such daytime lights, they often cause problems and inconveniences, for example, they fail, or there are problems with the operation of diodes.

The appearance of all Chinese is quite stylish. They have a durable transparent plastic glass coated with a special protective film, which must be removed before installation. The body of all DRLs is strong and shock-resistant, and the metal mounting brackets are universal, allowing you to put the device on any car. There are bolts that allow you to adjust the tilt of the devices. The set comes with 4 self-tapping screws or screws, with wide and dimensional washers for fixing. This design and mounting is often ideal for Japanese automobiles.

What do we see on our roads?

The result of the acquisition of low-quality is visible on our roads. That is, acquiring nameless DRLs made in China you can see how some of the LEDs that make up the module do not light up, or flicker occurs, the modules do not light up, or such processes as turning off the DRL when the dimensions and dipped beam are turned on, and so on, do not function. Sometimes, with a completely poor-quality assembly, LEDs may even flash due to current breakdown.

The main malfunctions of low-quality DRL

Shimmer... One or more LEDs flash quickly, which reduces the quality of the light and affects the efficiency of the device.	Flashing... Intermediate activation and deactivation of diode light, which also negatively affects the efficiency of daytime running lights.	Combined blinking... This is the most unpleasant thing about daytime lights, since alternately in one or another row, individual diodes or a whole row begin to deactivate.

How to be, after all, such running lights outside the city and in the city are strictly prohibited to use, since they do not meet the safety requirements of movement on the road. In order to change the position, revision should be made or tuning should be done on such running lights. Analyzing different running lights made in China, you can make sure that the design is almost identical.

The first thing that can be seen is that manufacturers of such low-quality materials have completely forgotten about what a sealant is. Despite the fact that the two parts of the module are fastened with screws, there is a gap between them, and this absolutely should not be. In rainy weather, it is through this gap that moisture and debris will get inside, which instantly disables the diodes - they simply burn out.

The second thing that is poorly done in Chinese daytime lights without a name is the board itself with LEDs. You can notice the following - the board is assembled according to the simplest principle, low-quality LEDs are taken as a basis, that is, emitters and a current-limiting simplest resistor.

It is worth noting that most of the LEDs in such products are of the super-bright type, and accordingly, they work from direct current and a small deviation from this norm leads to their quickest failure. Chinese manufacturers take 3 series-connected diodes and connect them to one resistor, which leads to problems with the operation of the device.

To approach the issue of revision correctly and transform low-quality DRLs, you need to stock up on the following details:

• Multiple stabilizers constant voltage 12V. You can take any stabilizer with these parameters - it will be perfect.
• Electrolytic capacitor that will fit under the daytime running light housing.
• High quality silicone sealant.
• Electrical tape, soldering iron and all accompanying set, as well as patience, perseverance and attentiveness.

How to fix the shortcomings of DRL?

To begin with, in order to stabilize the further operation of the LED device, it is necessary to equalize the current. That is, it is necessary to resort to installing a special voltage stabilizer. If you have a voltage of 12V on the box with diodes, then you need to purchase a miniature stabilizer with the corresponding indicator. It should be noted that in cars the voltage is not constant and even, and fluctuates from several units, which is typical at startup and can rise to 14V, which is inherent when charging the battery. If you put a stabilizer, then it will control the supply of only 12V current to the device. Also, it is very important to eliminate voltage fluctuations in order to bring the operation of the DRL to a stable mode. To eliminate this, experts recommend installing an electrolytic polarized capacitor with a large capacity characteristic. It must be installed to the common diode buses on the board itself, connecting it to the output of the stabilizer. It should be noted that it is necessary to strictly adhere to the polarity during installation.

Firstly, if the above manipulations are performed, the diodes will be ignited gradually and smoothly, which may not be noticed, but this is so. Secondly, thanks to the installation of the stabilizer, there is no reverse current flow, and the module is deactivated gradually, which can be seen with the naked eye. Such events provide LEDs better conditions work, and also allow you to increase the operational life several times, which is important for you, as a buyer of this product. And the last thing to do in this case is to use a silicone sealant. They need to process the edges of all parts of the case in contact with each other in order to remove gaps and prevent moisture and dust from getting inside the case.