Read in the article, examples of faulty sounds hard disk and how to identify them... Clicking or rustling sounds, vibrations or whistles that were not there before. A working hard drive is a fairly quiet device that can remind of itself only with a soft click when accessing it or turning on / off the computer. But if, over time, clicking or rustling sounds, as well as vibration or whistling sounds that were not heard earlier, then such a hard drive may have failed.
Western digital
Dull sound of faulty hard drive heads.
Defective disk heads click slowly several times, after which the rotation of the disk slows down.
Slowing down the rotation of the platters of the hard disk after producing several clicking sounds by the failed heads.
A hard drive with a jammed spindle cannot spin up.
Clicking sounds of a hard drive with a failed preamplifier chip.
A disc with erratic heads that stop after a few clicks.
A laptop hard drive with a jammed spindle that is trying to spin up with a siren-like sound.
The computer hard drive cannot spin up due to faulty bearings.
Seagate
Rustling and clicking sounds produced by a disc with inoperative heads.
Sounds made by a disc with damaged heads during startup (spinning the plates).
Clicks from faulty laptop hard drive heads.
A disk with a jammed spindle is trying to spin.
The boring sound of broken disc heads.
Maxtor
A computer hard drive with a broken or broken head unit.
Clicks of inoperative heads.
The sound made by a disc with a jammed spindle.
Samsung
A fast clicking sound indicates a failure of the hard drive heads.
The same as with the previous disc.
Sound of damaged hard drive heads.
A worn-out computer disk that emits a scratching sound when accessing broken sectors.
Hitachi / IBM
A laptop hard disk with damaged heads clicks at startup, and then beeps.
A worn-out computer disk that emits a scratching sound when accessing an area with bad sectors.
A disc with worn out platters and a block of heads makes wheezing and howling sounds.
Whirring laptop disk with jammed spindle trying to spin.
Toshiba
Sound of broken bearings on laptop hard drive.
Sound of worn bearings on a laptop hard drive.
The sound of a laptop hard drive jamming.
Fujitsu
Worn laptop hard drive heads.
Defective laptop hard drive heads.
Sound of worn-out computer hard disk platters.
Quantum
Defective head block.
What to do if the hard drive starts to make extraneous sounds
- First of all, make sure that the hard drive is the source of the sound being emitted.
- After you are convinced that it is the hard drive that is making the sounds that bother you, run the hard drive diagnostic utility. You can use both those supplied by the manufacturers with the device, and from third-party manufacturers. Just keep in mind that in best case the diagnostic utility will detect and limit the use of bad sectors of the hard drive, which may be the cause of an incorrect or unstable work disk. If there are mechanical damage or hard disk wear - you cannot fix them programmatically.
- If after using the diagnostic software nothing has changed in the operation of the disk, it is recommended to immediately create a copy of the data of such a hard disk or its image for further recovery.
How to create an image of a failed or damaged disk using Hetman Partition Recovery. - If, as a result of the use of a diagnostic or repair software sounds of the hard disk have partially or completely disappeared, then it is possible that there are bad sectors on it. In this case, it is still recommended to create a backup of all data on the hard disk and think about replacing it, since bad sectors may continue to appear on the disk and this will eventually lead to data loss or failure.
Other sounds the computer can make
The hard drive is not the only device in your computer that can make sound. It can also be a power supply, cooler, CD / DVD drive, or other devices connected to it. SSD drives do not make any sounds because they have no moving parts. Therefore, before taking any action, it is important to correctly identify the source of the sound.
If the computer is performing some complex tasks or running a resource-intensive game, then it will be normal for the computer to run louder - the computer's coolers will spin faster to cool it down. Sometimes, a dirty or broken cooler makes more noise than other devices.
Often when the car is moving, you can hear extraneous sounds - noise, knocking, grinding. This is usually a symptom of a problem with a site or system. Also, do not forget about the noises made by weakly fixed interior elements... During the operation of the car, it is necessary to constantly listen to extraneous sounds so as not to start the problem and diagnose possible malfunctions in time.
Suspension is usually the source of extraneous sounds, steering, brake system, transmission and exhaust system.
Suspension malfunction sounds
The most difficult part to determine "by ear" of a malfunction is the suspension. Let's talk about the "auditory" diagnosis of the suspension using the example of the popular today McPherson. A knock can indicate wear on the silent blocks of the levers, ball joints or tie rod ends. If these faults occur, they disrupt the suspension geometry and affect the stability and safety of the machine.
Often the cause of knocking can be the wear of the struts and stabilizer bushings. lateral stability... This also impairs the vehicle's handling.
Less often, the shock absorber or its upper support may knock. Usually paired with a suspension of this type install rack and pinion steering. It can also make a knock. The reason is the wear of the bushings. It should be noted that it is possible to ride with this (and long enough), but still better malfunction eliminate.
If the machine is equipped with a worm-gear steering gear, the knocking source could be the pendulum arm and bipod shaft bearings. But in this case, this leads to an increase in backlash in the steering mechanism, and this is more dangerous than with a rail.
If the car's suspension is multi-link, it accordingly has many silent blocks, which, when worn, emit extraneous sounds. May also make noise ball joints.
Almost rare torsion suspension "Sound" by faulty torsion bar bearings. It sounds like the noise from worn-out silent blocks. Rear suspension its "sound" is no different from the front end. There can also knock silent blocks, shock absorbers or their bushings. There is also occasional knocking due to wear on the rear beam bushing.
Bad brake sounds
In this case, noises can annoy the parking brake adjustment mechanism installed in the rear braking mechanisms... This indicates the need to replace the pads or at least adjust them.
Sometimes it happens that extraneous sounds are emitted by the pads or calipers of disc mechanisms. This is a sign of the resulting mobility of the shoes due to the weakening of their springs.
A torn off pad can also "sound" brake pad... To identify this problem, we advise you to drive through the garage pit with slightly braked wheels. The pad pressed against the disc will not make noise.
Note that some suspicious sounds may occur only in special conditions movement:
- Worn shock absorber rod bushings can knock only when starting to move or turning to one side, and in other conditions it is quite normal to work.
- Only when driving over irregularities in a corner can the ball joints make noise. Note that the upper ball joints most often make noise in small holes, and the lower ones - in large ones.
- When descending, if you come across holes along the way, the front springs can remind of themselves. Their coils touch each other and emit a characteristic sound.
- For front-wheel drive cars, the outer CV joint makes noise when the wheels are turned, and the inner one - on a straight line.
- At the beginning of the movement, balls and cardan joints transmission shafts, as well as a dull blow with faulty engine and gearbox mountings. However, the latter is typical for all cars.
Finally, we note that if you decide to identify the cause of extraneous noise in the car, you must remove all things that can rattle from the glove compartment, shelves, trunk and other places. This primarily applies to tools not packed in a box, CDs, fire extinguishers, spray cans and other household items. Note that it is not necessary to remove all things from the car, you can cover the trunk and glove compartment with soft thick material (foam rubber or foam rubber) to eliminate the noise of their contents.
Most often, they sin with extraneous sounds of malfunctions, the resource of which is significantly depleted.
Still, you shouldn't rely entirely on your own hearing. The "diagnosis" must be confirmed by visiting the service station.
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By ear - a whole art. Only experienced and professional automotive doctors possess this gift. In one service, they may make a mistake in the diagnosis due to lack of experience, while in the other they deliberately go to deception in order to dissolve the client into overhaul.
With any extraneous noise of the motor (especially with a knock or roar), thoughtful diagnostics are necessary. However, the most common sounds have their own natural reasons, which can be understood by an ordinary car owner. This will help you approximately and protect yourself from deception in the service.
Alas, diagnostics by ear for the most part is applicable to gasoline units. Due to the natural noise of the work, it is extremely difficult to hear and identify extraneous sounds.
Attachment drive
The classic whistling sound of a worn out harness is not that simple. It manifests itself more strongly when it is cold, until it warms up. However, the nature of the noise is often different - hum or metallic sounds are possible. And the circle of suspects is significantly expanding: from tired rollers to deformation of one of the pulleys (due to which it periodically touches the motor cover) or wedging of the pressure plate of the air conditioning compressor clutch.
Calculating whether the belt whistles is very simple. It is enough to sprinkle it with "vadashka" or a similar universal grease while the motor is running. If the extraneous noise has disappeared completely or significantly subsided, everything is clear with its source. The belt is threatened not only by natural wear in the form of cracks - it also inevitably dubs. When the elasticity of the belt is partially restored, so the whistles come to naught. Small stones that fall into the belt rivulets and contact with the pulleys are sometimes to blame for the occurrence of metal sounds.
The serviceability of the rollers in most cases can be checked by removing the belt and assessing their play. It is much less common to use a stethoscope. Sometimes roller bearings hum or rumble without noticeable backlash.
A water pump or generator can bring the owner to a heart attack. When the bearings wear out, they rattle as if steel balls are dangling in a metal bucket. Moreover, their pulleys do not always have a noticeable backlash, and the "pump" also has a visible leak. Without a stethoscope, you can first identify these culprits with a simple trick: you need to remove the hinged belt and start the motor. This short check is not dangerous for the engine. Of course, the described technique is applicable only to motors with chain driven Timing when the water pump is driven by a hinged belt. Otherwise, you cannot check the "pump" in this way.
Timing drive
A rumble in the first seconds after starting a cold engine, as if a bucket of bolts had been shaken, suggests that either the timing chain tensioner or the worn out valve timing mechanism clutch is to blame. It is difficult to confuse such a characteristic sound with something.
In phase shifters breaks over time internal elementsand they rumble until the cavities are full.
In addition to natural wear and tear, timing chain tensioner problems can be related to its design. The tensioner is operated by a pressurized oil supply, and many tensioners do not have a shutoff valve. For this reason, after stopping the engine, the oil in some cases drains freely from the housing, and the chain sags. After starting the engine, it takes some time to restore operating pressure fluid in the tensioner.
If the chain is stretched, it makes noise constantly. In this case, a phase mismatch arises, which turns into a more rigid work of the motor - up to the fact that gasoline unit may sound like diesel. It is important to understand that even with a slight stretch of the chain, even before the appearance of a light knocking, modern motors begin to lose dynamics and start unstable during cold starts.
Valve mechanism
Incorrect valve clearances will cause a distinct ringing knock. Its frequency increases with increasing engine speed. The engine temperature does not affect the sound character.
Almost identical knock is made by worn hydraulic lifters. However, for some engines, noise in the first few seconds after a cold start is normal and takes some time to fill with oil. A constant knock indicates a failure of the hydraulic pushers: the internal valves no longer retain oil, the pressure inside the compensator drops and the clearance in the valve mechanism increases - this causes a knock.
The lifespan of expansion joints is directly related to the purity of the oil (read :) and its pressure.
Cylinder-piston group
The knock of the cylinder-piston group is associated with excessive gaps resulting from wear of parts. It resembles the sound produced by hydraulic lifters or valves, only more dull. Depending on the size of the clearances, the knock of the pistons may be constant or disappear after the engine warms up.
A temporary knock, which many car owners sometimes do not even hear, often occurs due to local overheating of the cylinders and pistons. With modern motors, this can happen even if there was no general overheating with boiling. Due to a local increase in temperature, the piston skirt leads, it loses its taper, the gap between it and the cylinder wall increases - as a result, when it is shifted at the top dead center, a knock occurs. Warm up the engine thermal clearances decrease and extraneous noise disappears - which practically does not happen with serious cylinder wear.
In case of piston deformation, you can get off with a little blood, replacing only the pistons themselves. But the constant knocking of the pistons indicates excessive clearances, and then a major overhaul of the engine is inevitable.
Earbuds
Critical wear of the connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft causes a resounding rumble - as if they are hammering on steel. Its frequency increases with increasing speed and does not depend on the operating temperature of the engine. Rumble is especially strong under load. The easiest way is to simulate this on cars with a stall-test: while holding the brake pedal so that the car does not move, the transmission selector must be moved to the "drive" position and briefly increased to medium engine speed - extraneous noise will be heard distinctly.
Intake manifold flaps
Many servicemen and car owners are confused by the knock of dampers in. On idle motor, this noise is very similar to that emitted by deceased hydraulic lifters. But under load, the sound takes on a distinct "plastic" tone. So the damper axis makes a noise, which wears out over time seats and begins to vibrate.
The vibrations of the dead axle are clearly audible with a stethoscope. A malfunction of the axle can be caught without the "device" if it is possible to crawl to its end, coming out of the manifold, or to the thrust from the drive. Slightly pressing the "tail", for example, with a screwdriver, you temporarily exclude vibration - and the noise will disappear. By the way, do not rush to change an expensive assembly line: a defective part can be repaired.
We would like to thank Inomotor LLC (Moscow) for help in preparing the material.
What if the car knocks, rustles, or rattles on bumps? For what malfunctions do you urgently need to go to the service station, and when can you fix the breakdown yourself?
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What does the sound say
The sound of a working machine should not be uncomfortable. Any unpleasant noise signals that one of the components or assemblies is not working properly. You need to react to the symptoms immediately - one breakdown pulls another.
A knock is a backlash formed in any node, which arises from natural wear and tear. Noise - from rubbing parts. Noises and knocks are very similar. Often they are summed up, for example, ball joints are faulty and play in the front hub bearings.
To determine the place of noise and / or knocking, you must first determine from which side it occurs. If you have already established the approximate location of the noise, then it will be much easier to find them. Observations of what the sound is synchronized with and under what conditions it occurs will also help.
Rear suspension
Traction rear axle ... On rear-wheel drive vehicles, knocking is often heard when starting off and braking due to bushing wear. Or after a sharp press on the gas pedal, the rear of the car pulls a little to the side - the direction of the car has to be corrected by the steering wheel. Defective rod must be replaced.
Rear brakes... Is there a noise or vibration from the entire body after pressing the brake pedal? This is a common wet weather problem. This is usually due to a thin layer of corrosion, dirt on the pads or the inner surface brake drums... In this case, try to drive a hundred meters with the handbrake slightly extended - the corrosion layer will disappear as a result of friction.
Front suspension: problems
If faulty SHRUS, then when turning, clicks are clearly audible. Especially if you turn the steering wheel from side to side at idle. An urgent replacement is needed.
Half axles... Defective if hum builds up with increasing speed. The axle shaft itself does not fail, but it has weakness - bearing. It is necessary to repress it within 2-3 weeks or replace it together with the axle shaft.
segodnya.ua
Wheel bearings... Front hub bearings make a knocking and / or noise. Knocking occurs from excessive play in the bearings, and noise is due to wear on the raceway of the cages and bearing rollers. It is not difficult to diagnose yourself. To do this, raise the left side of the car with a jack (you will still do this soon when replacing summer tires for winter) and sharply turn the wheel by hand. If there is a hum similar to the noise of a metal ball rolling on a sheet of metal, the bearing must be replaced. Now grab the top inner part of the wheel with your left hand and the bottom outer part with your right hand. Rock the wheel "for a break". If it even slightly "dangles", you need to contact the service station to eliminate the play in the hub bearing there.
Ball joints... In the event of a malfunction, they knock or creak when driving over bumps and on uneven roads. As soon as possible, you need to replace them at the nearest service station, otherwise the car will stand in the middle of the road with an unnaturally inverted wheel.
Steering... Let's start with the gearbox, which sometimes knocks due to wear. main pair (a worm-roller appears) and creaks when the steering wheel is turned in different directions. In most cases, the problem is solved by adjusting and lubricating the steering shaft.
But the tie rods and tips have a knock like ball joints, and it appears only on uneven roads. These parts need to be changed urgently.
Shock absorbersusually they do not annoy with their "sounds", but if they are, then they are well heard on an uneven road: they knock and creak. Their disease is wear of rubber bushings, pillows, oil leakage. Rock the car and listen for knocks. You can determine the wear of bushings and pillows immediately - the body will continue to swing even after you have stopped the impact. It is dangerous to ride on such shock absorbers when hard pressing on the brakes, the stopping distance will double.
segodnya.ua
Oil may leak in the shock absorber, which can be seen with the naked eye (smudges and adhering dirt will be visible on the body). Such a shock absorber must be replaced.
Brakes... The pads sometimes whistle when the pedal is pressed, to the point that there is a grinding sound. If they are new, then, most likely, they simply did not get used to it, and the sound will disappear by itself after 1-2 thousand km. But there is a possibility that they are simply defective (curves). Therefore, if the sound does not disappear after a while, and the car changes its trajectory when braking (it is pulled to the left or right), the pads must be replaced. On cars expensive to maintain, they are expensive (more than $ 100), so there is a second way - they are removed brake disk and grind on the machine, and the pads are processed using a grinding wheel (this procedure costs about 150-200 UAH).
Springs... The unpleasant sound of metal parts of a car rubbing against each other is also often emitted by springs. The reason lies in the incorrect installation - you need to contact those who installed them - to fix the problem.
Malfunctions in the engine compartment
Generator belt... The malfunction gives itself out with a shrill squeal after starting the engine or with a sharp increase in speed. To stop it, the belt needs to be tightened. Didn't help or did the sound come back after a while? Change to a new one.
water pump... Defective if on idling from the front engine compartment a rumble and / or a thin whistle is heard. In this case, it must be replaced.
