Today it is difficult to meet people who know what kind of oil the Ural motorcycle needs. But this brand stably remains one of the most popular in our country. They are often found in the western regions and southern regions of our country. Such motorcycles - powerful and unpretentious - are very fond of the villagers.
Reasons for popularity
The main share of the produced motorcycles of this brand is exported. Only 3% of the total issue remains in Russia. The reason for such a small "balance" has to do with the cost of the bike. It is approximately equal to the price good car, albeit not new, but in fair condition.
V last years the demand for this bike abroad has become simply record-breaking. Therefore, the plant producing "Ural" was reconstructed. Component parts come from abroad, and assembly is carried out in Russia.
The plant produces about 1000 motorcycles during the year. Moreover, all of them are sold in advance according to individual orders. Ural is popular in many countries. It can be found in Canada, Australia, USA, Europe.
How to choose the right oil for a Ural motorcycle
To keep the bike running smoothly, it is very important to find the right oil. Automotive lubricants not suitable for Ural engines. The viscosity index does not meet the requirements of the motor. In addition, completely different additives are required.
If the motorcycle is operated all year round, it is recommended to use a multigrade engine oil. It includes special additives, enabling the "Ural" to function without problems at any temperature.
For normal work in warm weather it is worth using summer oil... Unfortunately, today it is very problematic to find such lubricating compositions in Russia. They are mainly sold in other countries.
The viscosity index is very important for the engine of the Urals. To achieve it smooth operation, a liquid consistency is needed, which will not begin to thicken at sub-zero temperatures.
In an old ICE that has served for a single year, it is better to fill motor fluid with high viscosity. Although, according to the majority of owners, no oil is capable of knocking out the Ural engine.
Since the model belongs to the high-class, its engine is able to work in the most difficult conditions when the wear of the parts increases.
Back in Soviet times, the Uralov manufacturers recommended the use of M8V1 engine oil. Interestingly, it is considered the lowest grade, but the Ural engine works great on it.
And if you fill in the modern high quality oil, it will perform even better, reaching speeds of up to 120 km / h on a straight road.
Most suitable oil for a motorcycle Ural is considered a mineral. However, some nuances must be taken into account. If the motorcycle has undergone a fashionable tuning, it is better to use semi-synthetic oil, the wear of the parts will not be so great.
A bit of history
The Ural was based on the military BMW model R71 made in Germany. During the war, our military captured a lot of such equipment. The very first sample was made during the hostilities. It differed from the German in several additional devices.
During the war in Iraq, the Iraqi government bought a large number of motorcycles from Russia to increase the maneuverability and mobility of the military.
To make the vehicle more stable, additional channels were attached to it. Security was carried out using fixed machine guns in conjunction with flamethrowers. The improved models became very popular with the military. After the end of the war, the American military became interested in the motorcycle.
To owners of foreign models, our partners offer tuning and spare parts for Harley Davidson in a wide range - from electrics to engines.
The off-season is the time for scheduled maintenance and postponed repairs. There is a popular belief that the off-season is especially fun for KTM motorcycle owners. I must say that this time the volume of work exceeded even my wildest expectations.A few introductory notes: at the end of last season, I started eating oil in very unpleasant quantities - about 1 liter per 1000 km; the current mileage of the motorcycle is about 50,000 km and in the process of eating oil it did not show any loss of power - it confidently gained 200 by GPS, and the presence of the passenger had almost no effect on its agility, which gave hope that there were no problems with the CPG.
A smooth analysis of the motorcycle immediately showed the presence of a rather large amount of oil in the air filter box - the lower part of one of the "glasses" fixing air filter was literally drenched in oil.
The design of the 990 Adventure is such that crankcase ventilation comes into the airbox just above the front boiler injector well. back side of this hose goes into the left crankcase cover (on the generator side), ultimately the channel ends with an oil seal on the balancing shaft, which is prone to wear - during this off-season I put my hands on two LC8 engines with approximately the same mileage and both the condition of the oil seals was deplorable. More experienced comrades with AdvRider argue that 1l / 1000 km is far from the worst performance for such a situation.
Further, in general, nothing special - removing the hinged junk and removing the cover itself. As a result, it turned out that the oil seal is essentially absent and only from the entire structure survived metal clip... The replacement procedure is a matter of minutes, the old oil seal can be easily removed with improvised means, and the new one is easily clogged with a socket head of a suitable size (13th, emnip).
Following this, valve adjustment was planned and I climbed deeper. After removing the injector rail, I found very unpleasant deposits on the intake valves (in particular, the front cylinder) and decided that since I was too lazy to measure the compression before starting work, it was probably time to use a pneumotester.
My garage does not have a full-fledged outlet, so I use a 12-volt Berkut SA-06 compressor, which has a very small receiver (5.7 liters) and the response threshold is slightly lower than what is needed for normal operation of the pneumotester (the extreme division of the pneumotester is 7 atm, people it is advised to have 3-4 more on top in stock, and I had less than one), but the results from a cold engine turned out to be as follows: ~ 20% leakage on the rear boiler (which is traditionally more problematic for V-nis due to worse cooling), which with a margin falls into the "green zone" and ... ~ 60% of the leak on the front pot.
The beauty of a pneumotester is that it immediately shows problem place- in my case, the problem was exhaust valves through which a pleasant breeze was blowing.
So the back head cover was returned to its place, after which a service motor puller was ordered, a pack of junk for the head bulkhead, and I myself was mentally prepared for the fact that I would soon improve the mat. part in the area of the timing, and the Elephant will spend the introductory part of the season in the garage.
Tags: What kind of oil to pour into the Ural motorcycle engine
About oil and oil filters to the Urals!
Page 1 of 2 - Recommend the oil for the URAL motorcycle - sent to the Choice ... Tell me which oil is better to fill in the engine and how much is included in the volume? ... I wanted to pour synthetics into the engine with Lukoil, etc.
Evgeny Osokin | Topic author: News
How much oil needs to be poured into the Ural engine, how many liters to buy !?
oleg (Vasu)
ALEXEI (Marona)
oleg (Vasu)
ALEXEI (Marona)
Ilya (Shobhana)
Sergey (Celene)
Ivan (Valdimar)
Bogdan (Eiriol)
Roman (Diklit)
Bogdan (Eiriol)
What kind of oil to pour. - Forum site motorcycle Ural and Dnepr
Pour diesel into the engine, you will save great, and do not regret buying a transmission in the box and the gearbox - these units need oil ...
Along with many questions about the operation of the bike, a very important question arises about what kind of oil to pour into the motorcycle engine. Not only the durability of the motor depends on its correct choice, but also its power characteristics. Quality oil for a motorcycle is determined by such properties as:
- sufficient viscosity (for greater adhesion to rubbing parts);
- moderate fluidity (to avoid motor seizure);
- susceptibility to temperature indicators (both overheating and overcooling of parts should not occur);
- detergent properties (to remove carbon and dirt);
- must be environmentally friendly.
Types and varieties of oils
Among motorcycle owners, disputes often arise about which oil is best to pour into the engine of their pet. It is important to understand that only a certain type is suitable for each motorcycle. So in a two-stroke engine oil is injected into the fuel, and in a four-stroke engine it circulates.
According to the method of obtaining, motorcycle lubricants are divided into three types:
- mineral, obtained by distillation of oil;
- synthetic, obtained by chemical means;
- semi-synthetic, formed by mixing mineral and synthetic oils.
Thinking about which oil to pour into two-stroke engine motorcycle, you need to understand that quality is very important for bike motors. Therefore, it is better to buy oils from reputable companies. First of all, such lubricants must have good fluidity, should not leave any residues and have a cleaning function.
With a four-stroke engine, it's a little easier. Since the lubricant circulates in the motor, no special whims are required. The main thing that lubricant withstood the peculiarities of the climate and cleaned the engine.
What kind of oil to pour into the Ural engine?
Best to use recommendations from the operating manual under the Ural motorcycle. What kind of oil to pour into the engine is determined by the manufacturer. The only rule is to replace every 6,000 km. For motorcycles, the Ural is best suited for the long-established Shell brand... The quality of the oils of this company has been confirmed more than once in practice.
For more correct execution replacement work, it is worth referring to the original source - a book on the operation of the motorcycle. First of all, it is worth finding out how much oil is in the Ural motorcycle engine, since it is very important not to overdo it with the amount, just as not to top up it. In the first case, a water hammer can occur, and in the second, rapid engine wear and even its breakdown.
Therefore, if you do not know how much oil to fill in the engine, we strongly recommend looking for information for your specific engine.
The replacement procedure is not complicated and can be easily done at home. It is enough to install the motorcycle rear wheel onto the stand and unscrew the filler and drain plug... Then we unscrew oil filter... After the grease has drained out, close the plugs, put new filter and fill in a new one. Focus on the dipstick scale, it will show how much oil to pour into the Ural motorcycle engine.
PCDeath Fri, 07/11/2008 - 16:24
pala4, We read the forum and understand that Liqui Moly, Motul are considered good, and M8 sucks. Everything else is in between.
essno, branded oils they are good when they are bought from official dealers, and, preferably, they give you a quality certificate for the batch from which you take the oil. But this is very cool and not everyone has it.
Krivtz Sun, 09/11/2008 - 02:56
By the way, about oil from barrels: I also have a negative attitude towards filling engine oil from large cans (barrels), but in principle, if the service is "normal" (well, no one does such garbage as a "bodyaga" there), then it should be known who, when and where brought this barrel, but in plastic canisters from the type of official the dealer can be anything you want. So (in my opinion) the most the best way, if there is no trusted source, look for the manufacturer's official website in the net and see who is official dealer in a city or region. This is what, for example, did with the oil from the Walvolins. Used to be famous brand... I looked around, found out the address (retail is sold only at their service stations) and for the fifth year there have been no complaints. True, I pour it into the car, but I pour the Finnish mineral oil Neste into the Uralodnepr. I buy in "mechanics" and, interestingly, I have never met Valvolin or Neste in auto parts stores. Here.
Papandopulo _RIP_ Sun, 09/11/2008 - 16:47
pala4, so the engine died only because of the oil? GO-NOT-IN!
I followed your report from the road, the rhythm you set for your Urals is simply killer, or maybe (I do not assert, but I guess) you tried to maintain this rhythm on a rolling motion. So not on ...
Shl. If you started this Temko just to spit on Lukoil, then in vain. Oil is like oil, budgetary, and will do for opposites, unless, of course, it is burned and you are not lazy to change it after 2-2.5 tkm.
You don’t need to treat Elias, he wrote you everything correctly.
PCDeath Sun, 09/11/2008 - 16:55
pala4, You mean Lukoil at 20r per liter 20W-50 from the huckster at the collapse? Or Lukoil Synthetics 5W-40 API SM, purchased at a non-franchised Lukoil filling station with a copy of the batch certificate? Please clarify.
I have a positive attitude towards oil from barrels, because I take p / s Esso 10W-40, from an office dealer, I have never failed, and the price for a pocket is acceptable - about 100 rubles / liter
pedestrian Sun, 09/11/2008 - 21:00
the question is complex and controversial. My brother drove a single factory MT 30 thousand on Azmol Turbo-2 oil (semisynthetics 10w40), the mot passed ~ 30 km before him. The speedometer had long disappeared from the arrow, and it worked like an odometer, but together the motorcycle went away from the DPS nine on the highway, the oil temperature was quite low, you could keep your hand on the oil filter. Because the motorcycle is domestic, during operation something poured, changed but not in the engine (with a new oil system). Was sold and pleases the new owner. I have an MT-11, also with a new oil system, but I didn’t drive so fast even from a hill, at a cruising speed of 110 km / h working temperature oil was 100-120С ( ZIC oil semi-synthetics, and the same on Azmol). Why is that? Honestly - I don’t know ... I served both motorcycles, I made both the ignition, installed the oil system, in short, two absolutely identical engines
pala4 Mon, 10/11/2008 - 00:56
Papandopulo, That's how I don't want to go into details - honestly. Better re-read it again - if you don't understand, then I'll chew it all up. I will say only one thing: when I returned from a trip I talked with one very intelligent master, and the conversation was so full; compared oils in the old-fashioned way, it turned out that lukoil 15/40 is worse than m8 because it is in 300-600
it loses its quality. I will not tell you how they checked and compared. If you want - go to health, I will not dissuade anyone.
Anonymous (pedestrian) Mon, 10/11/2008 - 01:31
I talked with one very intelligent master, and the conversation dashed to butter; compared oils in the old-fashioned way, it turned out that lukoil 15/40 is worse than m8 because it is in 300-600
it loses its quality. I will not tell you how they checked and compared.
and why?
Papandopulo _RIP_ Mon, 10/11/2008 - 06:47
pala4, in detail - strength. What exactly should I re-read? If the topic is about your trip, then point your finger where it is. If the manual for the operation of the Urals, then you can take its word for it, I know it.
A separate question is how the oils were compared? Even more separate - why do you think the oil loses its properties "after 300-600"?
ministrell Tue, 11/11/2008 - 13:24
VAZ 21093, mileage 177231km (specially a pancake came down from the office, looked). Without capital.
Lukoil synthetic oil 10w40. Pokupaezzo at the same Lukoilovskaya gas station.
For its mileage and year, the car behaves more than worthy.
pala4 Tue, 11/11/2008 - 14:42
Papandopulo, Sedna looked, but unfortunately my topic died. So there, it was said that my Ural died out of the blue at a speed of 70-80 km, while it was cool, and he died after a short distance as I flooded Lukoil. I will not write how the oils were compared, because I have to dial a lot on the phone. I will say one thing, this experience was demonstrated to me by a very intelligent mechanic.
I repeat, I am not dissuading anyone, if you want - go, I made a conclusion for myself. While in the Urals I pour my mobile.
pala4 Tue, 11/11/2008 - 18:10
I rummaged through the Internet, looked at the oil tests. Interestingly, almost everywhere the leading places are occupied by castrol, matul, liquidation of moths. But I have never seen that here KASTROL who recommended the thread, from what? Is it too expensive? It's just that in Kaliningrad, the easiest thing is with castrol, which is why I'm asking!
The second question: I am going to cast semi-synthetics for automobiles, which one should I choose? requirement (the most widespread in Russia, relatively not expensive cost)
pedestrian Sat, 11/15/2008 - 18:16
I pour Delphi 20w50 mineral water in the Dnieper, everything is fine inside, the processing took place at TNK and the same was normal and nothing was jammed and there were no sales of sticks, so it’s not good to drive our oils like that. I recently poured semi-synthetics ZIC oil into a wheelbarrow, seemingly a package like nothing, we'll see how it shows itself.
pedestrian Wed, 11/26/2008 - 18:45
well, that's not an indicator. It is possible to kill the engine much faster on super-synthetics. As far as I remember, when allied, the carriers for every 100 thousand without breakdowns drew a star on board, like for a downed fighter. I have met buses (domestic) with so many stars that Pokryshkin himself would have envied. And then you drove, you know what
werewolf_m-72 Thu, 11/27/2008 - 07:51
In 2107 I pour only esso 10w40, and pour oil into the Urals from a diesel locomotive (!) The brand is unknown, but I know that it is mineral water, the viscosity is similar to 20/50.
It is not possible to rent the engine from a diesel locomotive on the capital, so they will not pour bad oil there, I have been using it for a long time, there are no complaints
max_04 Mon, 01/12/2008 - 09:20
but what about the diesel engine ??? who will clarify? Why is it not recommended in Dnipro? I personally poured and drove ... in the winter there will be a capital, so I think what to pour next ... it's just all diesel for free with me, with Volvo tractors, I don’t even know the name))
pedestrian Mon, 01/12/2008 - 09:38
nanaster, Ural only 20W50. since air vent he and temperature regime tougher, i.e. the operating temperature of the oil is higher and its viscosity is correspondingly lower, therefore it is thicker and necessary, especially since few people travel in winter, about winter oil this is another conversation ...
Kill the motor, ooh diesel oil completely different characteristics, there is no freebie, you have to pay for everything in life ...
batjka Mon, 01/12/2008 - 10:38
On the old Cadet, Teboil poured it once, a day later the valves knocked. I changed it to TNK, and all the knocking and wheezing disappeared. Now in diesel Astra pour Reynol (Rheinol), mileage 240 thousand, the motor works like a watch.
Anonymous (pedestrian) Tue, 02/12/2008 - 02:07
In the Urals, only 20W50. since it is an air vent and the temperature regime is tougher, i.e. the operating temperature of the oil is higher and its viscosity is correspondingly lower, therefore it is thicker and necessary,
look what one of the coolest oil producers advises to pour http://liquimoly.ru/components/
regarding oil with a higher viscosity - there was a topic about this, the essence is as follows: with a higher viscosity of oil, the engine spends more energy on pumping, plus more loss in friction pairs. This means that the engine will consume more fuel, therefore, it will heat up more. Accordingly, it is necessary to pour a thicker oil ... And so on ad infinitum
pedestrian Tue, 02/12/2008 - 02:23
abyrvalg1, liquid molly? yes they are Ural, then go only in pictures and have seen judging by the models on the site. I do not agree about the energy for pumping, the mechanical losses are comparable to the mechanical losses for the operation of the camshaft cam on the oil pump. Liquid oil on an engine slightly overheated in the heat will quickly lose its viscosity and the frail, worn-out oil pump of the Urals simply will not lift it up the highway, in the end it will come oil starvation knots and primarily pistons, then you will overheat ...
Roman_shvbsk Tue, 02/12/2008 - 11:01
Everything is the same. The difference in price is determined by the difference in brand price. Within the same type of oils, of course. IMHO. Liquid Moli and Motul are also called good ones in motorcycle circles because they have just motorcycle oil. And Uralodnepram needs a car thicker, which is a bunch of other manufacturers. It makes sense to choose cheaper and better quality for those who buy oil in barrels. The difference of 100 rubles to a person who buys a canister of oil for his motorcycle / car will not make the weather. You can only discuss this out of love for art and the availability of free time. Again IMHO.
Anonymous (pedestrian) Tue, 02/12/2008 - 15:21
I disagree about the energy for pumping, the oil pump has mechanical losses comparable to mechanical losses for the operation of the camshaft cam
yah? And with an increase in viscosity, mechanical losses remain the same?
In fact, the plant recommended pouring M8 into sovkopposits, see what the viscosity of this oil is. You would still stuff the solid oil there (dropping point 60C)
pedestrian Tue, 02/12/2008 - 15:28
abyrvalg1, Because there was nothing else at that time, that's why it was recommended, if you think about it, it was recommended to pour it into the whole shovel technique, like it will chew, it will not choke, well, how can you compare the temperature regime of dropsy and a primitive air vent? Think about the meaning of the phrase "Air-oil cooling" ...
pedestrian Wed, 03/12/2008 - 00:46
Mineral oils in their composition, they are practically all the same, the current is different in viscous properties, and the production technology has been the same for many many many years.
And it is simply pointless to talk about their real differences depending on the manufacturer, they are so insignificant.
It's already funny to read one and the same topic for 5 years)))))
Anonymous (pedestrian) Wed, 12/03/2008 - 02:04
There was nothing else at that time
oddly enough - it was:
M-8V
M-8V2
M-8G2
M-8G2K
M-8DM
M-10V2
M-10G2
M-10G2K
M-10G2TsS
M-10DM
M-14V2
M-14G2TsS
M-16G2TsS
M-16IHP-Z
M-16PTs
MS-20P
MT-16P
AMG-10
B-3V
VO-12
IPM-10
MS-20
MS-8P
SM-4.5
TSP-10
TSP-15K
TEP-15
TSZP-8
TAP-15V
TAD-17I (TM-5-18)
pedestrian Wed, 03/12/2008 - 23:09
nanaster, not typically, but identical, unlike synthetics, consist almost entirely of " base oil". Produced from fuel oil by direct distillation and no other way.
Therefore, mineral water can be mixed without problems from different manufacturers, and synthetics are not allowed in any case. it consists of up to 30% well-balanced additives.
