Unlike the owners of cars of many foreign brands, the owners of the VAZ "classics" know how to adjust the wheel bearings. Currently, the prevailing opinion among designers and auto engineers is that fixed and non-separable front hub bearings are safer. We can only partly agree with this. The new bearing changes along with the hub into which it is pressed at the factory.
Whether we like it or not, wear is inevitable. After some time, a backlash appears and there is only one way out - to buy an expensive bearing with a hub. The domestic auto industry is on the side of our motorists.
It is much easier to replace only the bearings, which allow you to periodically adjust the hub play. Firstly, it is several times cheaper. Secondly, the resource of the node increases. Thirdly, the adjustment can be made by the driver himself in a garage.
Why is wheel bearing adjustment possible on some vehicles?
Considering that the design of the classic VAZ series was borrowed from foreign cars, there are foreign cars in which the backlash of the front wheel bearings is adjustable. Such an opportunity is provided by a special design of the front wheel hub, which rotates on a semi-axle on two tapered (tapered) bearings.
A distinctive feature of tapered ones is that it is possible to install a backlash between the hub and the axle shaft, pressing the outer and inner race of the bearings against each other. In the hub in the direction of the tapers, the bearings are directed towards each other. If you gradually tighten the hub nut on the axle shaft, this will lead to a stronger pressing of the rollers between the races. At some point, the wheel will stop spinning altogether.
Thus, with just one nut, you can adjust the force with which the clips press the rollers. During operation, even ultra-strong bearing metal alloys wear out, leading to excessive wear. This endangers the life and health of both the driver and passengers and other participants. road traffic... All that should be done to eliminate such a problem is to tighten and secure the hub nut. As soon as the nut, at maximum clamping, ceases to affect the amount of backlash, it is necessary to change the bearings.
Wheel hub bearing adjustment - step by step instructions
Before embarking on the regulatory process, certain preparatory steps should be taken. For such an important event, in reality, you need a minimum of tools:
- jack;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- beard;
- wrenches for wheel bolts for "12", "27";
- torque wrench.
Always change the wheel nuts every time you adjust the bearing play. Fixation of the nut on the semiaxis in the required position occurs by riveting the nut flange into the groove on the semiaxis. If the collar is bent and folded again, then there is a high probability that the nut will return to its previous position.
With everything you need at hand, you can start adjusting the hub bearings.
Wheel bearing adjustment technology:
- the car is fixed on a level surface with a parking brake or other improvised means;
- lifts with a jack front wheel, after which it can be removed together with decorative caps;
- carefully using a hammer, screwdriver or other spacer, the protective hub cap is pressed out;
- the wheel is installed on the hub and tightened with at least two opposite bolts;
- the amount of backlash and the possibility of tightening are checked for what: with one hand, hold the wheel in the upper part and make sharp swinging movements to the sides in the direction of the wheel axis, and with the other hand, press the washer located between the nut and the bearing race. If the axial clearance is more than 0.02 - 0.08 mm, adjustment should be made;
- using a hammer and a pointed metal object (barbs, core), it is necessary to uncouple the bent sections of the hub nut flange;
- the nut is unscrewed and removed, a new one is screwed in instead (on the right trunnion, a nut with a left thread, on the left trunnion - on the right);
- after tightening the nut with a force of 19.6 Nm, it is necessary to turn the hub several times in different directions in order for the bearing rollers to take their place;
- the nut is loosened and retightened, but with a force of 6.8 Nm. For reference: 10 Nm \u003d 1.02 kg / cm 2;
- the nut is turned off at an angle of about 25 degrees;
- the collar of the nut is jammed into the grooves on the axle shaft of the steering knuckle;
- the hub is assembled and the wheel is installed.
Adjusting the wheel hub bearings is a very important and responsible matter, because the safety of people depends on how much everything is done correctly. In addition to strictly following all the rules, it is necessary to know and take into account such aspects as:
- the degree of tightening of the hub nut;
- bearing lubrication condition.
Some drivers mistakenly believe that tightening the nut will extend the mileage. After the nut is fixed, the wheel must rotate absolutely freely and the specified minimum technological backlash must be present. In motion, all parts of the bearing heat up and expand. If you overdo it and tighten the nut tightly, this can even lead to jamming or destruction of the bearing.
The bearings in the hub must be well lubricated. During operation, the lubricant has a destructive effect: friction, overheating, the appearance of an admixture of washable metal. If it’s time to adjust the bearing play, it’s not worth saving money on buying new grease. As a rule, "Litol-24" is universal for wheel bearings. Lubrication is one of the important conditions for increasing bearing life.
Nowadays, few people already remember how to tighten the screws correctly - since Soviet times, the screw-tightening industry has fallen into complete decline, therefore, if, suddenly, someone takes up this business, you need to remember some rules.
What is a Nut? This is a fastener in the form of a piece with a threaded hole that forms a connection using a screw, bolt, or stud. There are two types of nuts: metric or inch.
Nuts made of carbon unalloyed and alloyed steels are classified according to strength class 4; five; 6; 8; nine; ten; 12 - for nuts with a normal height equal to or more than 0.8d; 04; 05 - for nuts with a nominal height of 0.5d to 0.8d. The strength class is indicated by a number multiplied by 100 to obtain the stress value from the test load in megapascals and indicates the highest strength class of the bolts with which they can create a connection. With this combination the bolt shank breaks earlier than the threads, making it easy to identify the failure of the fastener.
Despite the fact that the thread of a threaded connection has a helical lead angle much less than the friction angle, various vibrations, variable loads, violation of technology contribute to the disconnection (self-loosening) of the threaded connection parts... To prevent this (for locking), special devices are used: locking, splitting, welding, soldering, ripping, applying glue to the thread, installing spring or lock washers, anchor nuts, etc.
For so as not to rip off the pin or bolt(which will lead to the need for replacement), under certain conditions it is necessary to tighten the nuts with a torque wrench. In the absence of the latter, it is recommended to use a standard wrench and hands to tighten the nuts (without using legs and wrench extensions).
You say, think about it, tightened it tighter - it will hold on tighter. No, they are holding on, maybe they will, but we must not forget about the consequences. For example, if you are tightening the wheel bolts, remember that the rims have tapered seats. And, if you overtighten the wheel bolts, then the thickness of the cone decreases, which, with a minimum thickness, can give vibration. Many people roll discs, balance, but the vibration remains. If the vibration remains after rolling and balancing, you have to accept that it is time for the disk to go to the landfill, and for yourself to conclude that no need to overtighten the bolts.
Choosing reliable tools is a serious task, which sooner or later has to be solved by everyone who is faced with installation work by the nature of the profession, or simply believes that any real man can do such things. Pay attention to the mechanical device for assembling and disassembling threaded connections with a controlled moment - a wrench. And if the "fresh" nuts and bolts can be completely unscrewed with an ordinary wrench, then in more difficult situations(in case of hard-to-reach connections or in the presence of rust) it is almost impossible to do without a wrench.
The main the difference between Russian nut runners and imported ones is that each model has its own seating size of the spindle square, and when using the tool, difficulties may arise with consumables... Imported tools have landing squares ¼; 3/8; ½; ¾; 1; 11/2; 21/2; 31/2 (inches) so there are no problems with replacement heads. The connecting thread of the imported tool is inch, and the Russian one, with the exception of IP-3115 and IP-3128, is metric, which is a disadvantage.
As a preventive measure, so that the thread does not rust, lubricate it with grease, graphite grease or engine oil. The lubricant will protect the threads from corrosion for years.
Be that as it may, swirling the nut will have to be unscrewed someday... If you cannot loosen a rusty nut, drip kerosene or a highly penetrating WD-40 grease into the visible part of the thread. Tap the nut lightly with a hammer. Wait a few minutes for the liquid to penetrate the threads and try unscrewing again. To make the liquid penetrate more deeply into the threads, apply a cloth moistened with kerosene or WD-40 for a longer time.
If you cannot unscrew it, try, on the contrary, tighten the nut. She often succumbs to such a trick and frees herself..
Take a "minus" screwdriver with a steel rod along the entire handle, attach the sharp end of the screwdriver to the rusted bolt in such a way that when you tap the screwdriver with a hammer, it turns. This is an almost fail-safe way. If the bolt is large, use a chisel instead of a screwdriver.
By taking all precautions, you can heat the stubborn nut. It will expand and be easier to unscrew. Do not let it cool, or it will press on the threads.
In order not to disrupt the edges, unscrew with spanners, not open-end wrenches.
In this article, we will talk about how to unscrew a stuck nut, a rusty nut, a nut with stripped edges or completely round. Cases with non-standard nuts - plastic and big size.
The material also describes the most suitable tool, incl. special tool, professionally used to work with fasteners.
The material is useful for those who intend to unscrew the fasteners of the engine crankshaft, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and on other units and assemblies of a car, motorcycle or other equipment.
How to unscrew the nut
As a rule, the nuts are unscrewed with hand-held locksmith tools - box or open-end wrenches, heads using a wrench or ratchet. However, problem situations often occur.
How to unscrew the nut when the nut cannot be unscrewed with an ordinary tool with the usual application of forces? In this situation, it follows from the available tool to choose the one that suits best:
- thin short open-end wrenches, especially those with a too loose (broken) jaw, are the worst option, which it is better to abandon immediately in a situation with unscrewing rusty stuck nuts (open-end wrenches will lead to torn edges and further difficulties);
- spanners with an extended handle are preferable to open-end wrenches, since they cover the nut perimeter more tightly;
- A 6-sided box wrench or socket is preferred over 12-sided versions;
- because of its simplicity and strength, a wrench is preferable to a ratchet, because for the latter, the application of increased forces can lead to damage to the mechanism (especially for ratchets with a large number of teeth, each of which is smaller and not so strong);
- the impact wrench will do better than hand tools;
- in combination with long crank or pneumatic impact wrench the best solution there will be a Super Lock head, in which the force is applied not to the corners (faces), but to the planes, which excludes the licking of the nut faces;
- the torque amplifier (multiplier) will help to apply a force to a large stuck nut that is inaccessible when using only the physical capabilities of a person.
Which way to unscrew the nut
In the vast majority of cases, the fasteners have the right thread direction: you need to unscrew the nut counterclockwise (we look at the nut from the side of the free threaded end of the bolt or stud, through which it is necessary to drive the nut).
Accordingly, unscrew the nut with a left-hand thread clockwise.
When deciding which way to unscrew the nut, it is enough to carefully look at the fasteners:
- from the side you can see the inclination of the threads at a small angle - unscrew the nut in the direction to which the thread "rises";
- even if the threaded part is not visible, you can see the desired direction along the end part of the nut at the exit of the last turn of its internal thread.
How to unscrew a stuck nut
In order to unscrew a stuck nut, we recommend performing several preliminary preparatory operations:
- clean the fasteners from rust and dirt with a metal brush;
- tap the nut in a circle with a hammer without damaging its edges and open threads.
The following options are possible to unscrew the stuck nut:
- apply heating to the nut (preferably red and multiple times);
- apply a penetrating compound (WD-40, liquid wrench or their analogs) into the slot of the nut with the thread of the bolt (studs), withstand the time required for the drug to work (from 20 minutes or more from the state of the fastener and the activity of the agent);
- increase the force effect on unscrewing by increasing the lever for applying forces by using an elongated tool (or an extension attachment for a tool of regular length);
- to apply special device - torque amplifier (another name is torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a pipe wrench, holding the nut with it and applying force in the direction of unscrewing;
- clamp the nut in a rigidly fixed vise and unscrew, rotating the entire part or unit, if possible;
- clamp a small separate vice and try to unscrew the nut with them;
- apply a pneumatic impact wrench;
- drill out the threaded rod where the nut is stuck.
How to unscrew a torn nut
Damage to the edges (tearing them off) is a serious problem. There are several main solutions in this case:
- use the Super Lock head (affects planes, not edges);
- clamp the torn off nut in the pipe wrench (in a vice, clamp, pliers, etc.) and unscrew it;
- hammer a larger nut of a suitable size on top of a nut with licked edges, the inner diameter of which allows it to fit into an interference fit, for additional fixation, drill a recess in the contact area of \u200b\u200bthe nuts by inserting a metal rod (a piece of a drill and a piece of nail) there as a key to prevent rotation) and unscrew the fasteners using a tool for the size of a nut of a larger diameter with working edges;
- put on a nut of a larger diameter, weld both nuts together with a semiautomatic welding machine (while closing the thread of the stud or bolt with a tube with a suitable wall thickness), unscrew the large nut together with the small one welded.
How to unscrew a round nut
For round nuts, when the edges are cut and smoothed completely by the previous ones unsuccessful attempts, or the nut was made in this form initially, you can also use several approaches:
- put a standard hex nut of a larger diameter in an interference fit on it and drill a hole and a key that fixes it against rotation on the line of their contact and unscrew it using a large nut;
- with a sufficient height of the side surface, use a special tool - a hairpin;
- put on a round nut a square washer of large thickness (comparable to the height of the nut), cut on one side and with the inner diameter of the washer exactly corresponding to the outer diameter of the round nut, tighten the nut with a pipe wrench or a vice, yielding to compression, the nut in the cut will select a gap until tightly covering the surface round nut, unscrew the fasteners.
How to unscrew a nut with its heating
Heating the nut is often affordable, simple and effective way... When the metal is heated, the threaded surface of the nut spreads, the corrosion adhesion is somewhat destroyed and the sticking to the thread of the bolt or stud weakens.
Any suitable heat source can be used for heating: matches, wax candle, lighter, gas canister burner, blowtorch, gas torch (carefully, at a sufficient distance so as not to melt the fasteners), etc.
If possible, it is better to warm up the nut red-hot and unscrew it. If it did not work the first time, then the heating should be repeated several times. This is especially true for nuts planted on a special tool - a thread lock.
How to unscrew a nut with soaking
Loosening the sticking of fasteners with soaking is a further development of the relatively fast (20 minutes or a little more) application of special penetrating compounds.
The threaded part of the nut, as a rule, does not differ in high height, therefore, if there is a sufficient time for prolonged immersion in a compound that penetrates or is chemically reactive with respect to rust, it is an effective solution.
There are two main approaches:
- generously moisten the rusty fasteners in the thread area with an active agent, wrap the accessible threaded shank of the bolt or studs in the nut area with a rag moistened with this product or put it on top of the end (if the shank does not protrude beyond the plane of the nut), cover with cellophane or rubber and wrap;
- immerse the fasteners in the chemistry completely.
As chemistry can be used:
- penetrating compositions, in addition to the previously mentioned WD-40 and Liquid Key, kerosene, gasoline, carburetor cleaner, lock defroster and others can be used;
- rust converter;
- compounds chemically active against rust - table vinegar, iodine, alcohol, coca-cola, etc.
How to unscrew a large nut
For large nuts, 6 main methods can be effective:
- use a special tool that is designed for the repair and maintenance of agricultural machinery, tractor and special equipment - torque amplifier (other names - torque amplifier, torque multiplier);
- use a wrench with a long handle or a head with a long knob that is suitable for the size of the nut (if necessary, use a special extension or put a pipe of a suitable size on the rotating outer end;
- in the absence of a suitable wrench or head, cut a recess in a strong metal strip from one edge strictly according to the distance of the parallel edges of the nut, thereby creating an individual wrench for a large nut;
- use a chisel and a hammer to strike at the edge of the nut in the direction of loosening;
- electrically weld a metal rod to a large nut (as an option - a corner, channel or other profile) as a T-shaped or L-shaped handle, for which to unscrew;
- if the threaded end of the bolt or stud does not protrude beyond the outer surface of the nut, then you can drill 2 recesses on this side in the large nut, then at the same distance drill 2 holes in a strip of thick metal (corner or other profile), align the holes and insert into them metal rods, apply a force to unscrew (the rods will work like dowels on a cut, transferring torque to the nut).
When deciding how to unscrew a large nut, one must proceed from the need to maintain the integrity of the nut.
How to unscrew a plastic nut
Plastic nuts tend to differ in shape and size from normal metal nuts. The pliability of the material limits, although not always excludes, the use of a tool that squeezes from both sides (pipe wrench, vice, etc.) - coverage of most of the perimeter is needed, if possible.
You can unscrew the plastic nut:
- with a special factory-made wrench, the working surface of which repeats the profile of the nut perimeter;
- a self-made key;
- puller for oil car filtersthat firmly cover the circle with a steel tape or several metal paws (the stronger the applied force, the stronger the coverage);
- press wooden blocks and two opposite sides to the protrusions of the plastic nut and simultaneously hit with two hammers in the direction of unscrewing;
- with a small diameter - with wide-opening pliers;
- pipe (gas) wrench.
How to unscrew the nut in hard to reach place
To work with hard-to-reach fasteners, a special tool is used:
- wrench or ratchet with short handle;
- ratchet with a large number of teeth in the mechanism (gives a small angle of rotation, which is important in cramped conditions);
- extension cords for heads;
- flexible drives for heads.
How to unscrew a nut with its destruction or damage
In the most hopeless cases, when everyone available ways and the tools did not work, the fastener remains to be disconnected by destroying the fastener:
- pushing a chisel to the edges of the nut, hit it with a hammer in the direction of unscrewing;
- cut the fasteners with a power tool with a cut-off wheel;
- cut with a hand hacksaw for metal;
- destroy the nut by drilling numerous holes;
- cut the nut with a chisel and hammer (easier - after pre-drilling the holes);
- use a specially created tool for this - a nut;
- put on a larger nut, weld both nuts together around the perimeter with a semiautomatic welding machine (while closing the threaded part of the bolt or stud with a tube with sufficient wall thickness to exclude welding in one piece), unscrew the large nut with a wrench.
Conclusion
When deciding how to unscrew the nut, it is very wise to immediately use a suitable effective tool and perform preliminary preparations taking into account the condition of the fasteners. Untrained use of brute force with an unsuitable tool is highly likely to damage the nut edges, break the stud or tool.
Before unscrewing the nut, it is worth cleaning the threaded part of the stud or bolt, applying a penetrating compound and only after that apply force. Taking into account the techniques described in this article, even the most difficult cases can end with a positive outcome if you spend some extra time preparing.
Returning to this article when it will be necessary, you can find the necessary hint in the answer to the question of how to unscrew the nut of the crankshaft of the engine, hub, wheel, generator, exhaust manifold, variator and on other components and assemblies.
Having correctly defined with how hard to tighten the hub nut and stopping in time can avoid thread stripping and the need to perform expensive repairs, given today's prices for nuts. Craftsmen perform this work using a special torque wrench. Since the wheel bearing is a rather capricious product and is not always at hand optional equipment, then knowing the answer to this question is very important. Before work, it does not interfere with determining what type of it is installed, for example, it can be tapered or roller.
Features of tightening the hub nut
Nor understanding with how hard to tighten wheel nuts it’s better not to take this job. If they are overtightened, then a breakdown will occur, and if you do not hold out, then scrolling may occur, the seat under the bearing will deteriorate. Anyone who is not sure of their knowledge can use a spring cantor, but more can be done. in a simple way... Ratchet winches are often not able to provide sufficient force, and the tools for this are expensive.
In order to prevent breakage and do the job correctly, for broach it is recommended to use a lever that is a meter or more long. If on the car hub a fine thread pitch can be enough force of 20 Nm, plus it will be necessary to turn the key by another 90 °, in total such efforts will give a very decent tightening torque. Those who remember physics can make a simple calculation. To do this, you need to know your weight and the length of the arm. A value of 20 Nm is equal to a force of two kilograms with a lever length of one meter.
Effort then with what moment to tighten the hub nut, depends on individual characteristics vehicle... Tightening recommendations for even the same bearing often differ. They depend on the quality of the metal of the hubs, the strength of nuts, trunnions, threads. Usually 19-23 kgf / m is sufficient. If the bearing loosens and the clearance reaches 0.06-0.08 millimeters, this will significantly affect the reduction in the resource of the entire mechanism.
Experts who have worked in a car service for many years recommend tightening the hub nuts every 15-20 thousand kilometers. In this case, it will be useful to relax them a little by one or two turns. It is best if the vehicle is jacked up. To carry out this process, many advise using a tubular wrench, ring, because it has thick walls and there is a place for the crank, and it is more powerful. Thanks to a special adapter, you can use a pipe.
Modern cars are equipped with compression nuts that do not need to be counter-locked. They have belts and they themselves will press into the grooves of the trunnion. There is no need to press on the key with all your weight of one hundred kilograms, this is actually twice as strong as necessary. Knowing for sure what is the tightening torque of the hub nut you can avoid losing a wheel on the way, before that there will be a knock when cornering, while the car can fly into a ditch.
One of the most important elements of a car's chassis is the wheel bearing, which ensures uniform, smooth and quiet wheel rotation. The hub bearing is classified as rolling element bearing.
Currently, collapsible and non-collapsible hub assemblies are installed in cars. In the first case, the bearing can be replaced. In the second, it is necessary to change the entire hub assembly. According to inaccurate information, non-collapsible ones are safer compared to collapsible ones. However, their market value is several times higher. Our domestic locksmiths manage to cut down the connecting elements with a grinder and replace the bearing in a non-separable hub.
Non-separable rear wheel hub
On vehicles with one-piece, non-separable assemblies, bearing adjustment is not possible.The adjustment process consists in establishing a backlash between the hub and the axle shaft, pressing the inner race against the outer one. Most cars with rear drive, are available with single row roller bearings. A pair of such bearings is installed in the assembly, capable of withstanding large radial and axial loads. Maximum loads are transferred to both the rear and front bearings when driving on uneven roads, which leads to premature technical wear of the part. Also, an important cause of breakdown is a sharp change in temperature. For preventive purposes, front and rear bearing units it is necessary to inspect every twenty to thirty thousand kilometers. If your car is equipped with single-row bearings, they periodically need to be lubricated with special greases lubricants and pay particular attention to the axial distance. If sealed bearings are installed, the seals must be checked. Failure of a wheel bearing is a common problem. Well, if a breakdown is detected on time, it happens that the bearing falls apart on high speed, which leads to blocking the rotation of the wheel. Bearing failure is often associated with incorrect alignment. In cases of detecting extraneous sounds, accompanied by beating, when hitting a bump, a pit, it is necessary to diagnose and identify a malfunction. In many cases, the wheel bearing is the culprit. But not always. For self-diagnosis, jack up the wheel from where the sound is heard. Grasp the upper part with one hand, the lower one with the other, and jerk the wheel in a vertical plane. If the wheel is loose, then it is a bearing or a lower ball joint. To check ball joint it is necessary to slightly raise the support with the second jack. Shake the wheel, if the play has not disappeared, then this is a bearing. Otherwise, the problem lies in the ball joint. Before deciding to replace a bearing, you can first adjust it. If it does not help, proceed with the replacement.
You can check the bearing on the "jacked up" wheel
Bearing adjustment can be carried out after replacing it or after the above symptoms occur. If the wheel bearing is overtightened, the wheel will become very hot and the bearing will be destroyed. When excessively large backlash high probability of bearing collapse and seat... Minimum backlash allowed. Facelift wheel bearings does not take much time and is quite easy. Prepare minimal set tools:
- set of wrenches,
- set of screwdrivers,
- lithol,
- a couple of hammers
- adjusting washer
- set of heads,
- a new nut (take from the kit or buy separately),
- wd-40 (gasoline can be used),
- a torque wrench can be used for fine adjustment.
Instructions for self-tightening wheel bearings.
- Drive the car to speed or parking brake... Place something under the wheels, such as anti-rollback devices. This is necessary to prevent the vehicle from flying off the jack.
- Take the balun from the kit in the trunk (if there is one) and loosen the bolts that secure the wheel. In this case, the car must not be raised.
- Prepare a place to install the jack (from the kit). It should be firm and even. You can put boards under the jack if necessary. Raise the wheel until it stops touching the ground. Place a block under the lever just in case. Suddenly the jack is unreliable.
- Unscrew the bolts completely and remove the wheel.
- The next step is to remove the metal cap from the hub. To do this, use the supplied flat-blade screwdriver and a hammer. Place the screwdriver between the cap and the hub and detach the cap with light blows. Strike from different sides to avoid biting. The nut for adjusting the bearing is located under the cap.
Remove the hub cap
- Remove old grease from cap and nut. You will see a locked nut screwed onto the shaft. It is used to tighten and loosen the bearing.
- Unscrew the old nut. To do this, use a socket of the appropriate size. Clean the trunnion (the part of the shaft where the nut is screwed) using gasoline or wd-40.
Unscrew the old nut
- Replace the old nut with a new one. Replace the wheel. Tighten the nut completely first to stop the wheel turning easily. Then loosen, rotate and swing the wheel vertically until it starts spinning unhindered. Tighten the nut slowly and carefully so as not to rip it off. The backlash should be minimal, barely perceptible. The tightening process is the most important step. It is he who affects the quality of the work performed and the service life of the wheel bearing.
- Using a hammer, chisel, or screwdriver, lock the nut on both sides of the groove on the trunnion. To do this, attach a chisel with a point to the collar of the nut and hammer it into the groove with a hammer blow. This is necessary so that the nut does not change position during operation, which can lead to loosening or tightening of the bearing.
It is necessary to lock the tightened nut
- Fill the cap with new lubricant and refit. Remember that if it is wrong, the toe-in of the wheel changes, as a result of which the car's handling deteriorates, the consumption of fuel and lubricant increases, the tires wear out quickly and unevenly.
