It is no secret that most motorists with hanged attention and tremble belong to the appearance of their car. The paintwork is subjected to enhanced wear due to the effects of the external environment. Salt in winter, liquid tar in summer, gravel from under the wheels, sand, road dirt and dust capable of spoiling the brilliance of your car in a short time.

1. Do not rub dirty car Dry cloth - the resulting scratches are quite difficult to eliminate. Take advantage of car wash services, better contactless.
2. In the summer, pay attention to the fact that the preheated car does not stand under the poplar. Finding on the hot surface of the roof, the hood or trunk, the kidney of this tree melted, highlighting the resin, which penetrates the surface of the paint or varnish, leaving yellow stains that are removed only in one way - the colorful damaged part.
3. Parking car on a close parking lot near the store, leave the side distance between the machines of 1-1.5 meters to avoid the door of the door on the paintwork when landing-disembarking passengers.
4. When servicing in a car service, make sure that the performer protects the nearby details of the car body from dents and scratches in the process of its work (leaning into the increasing space of zipper or buttons inevitably scratch the surface).
5. Avoid deep polishing, since the method is removed part of the paint coating and the natural shine disappears. Moreover, the machine becomes matte after several miles, requiring repeated polishing. It is better to use a shallow professional polishing. You can also advise the surface polishing with liquid wax compounds after washing the bitumen by gasoline. In addition, such a polishing can be carried out on their own by reading the instructions for the polyroli on the bottle.
6. Do not put on the hood, the trunk and roof which is some items: bags, bastards, various loads - scratch the surface, and besides, you can simply forget to remove objects in the salon - there were cases!
7. Do not clamp on the car - barely visible dents will be visible on the gloss. When you have to push the car from behind or in front, rest on the palms in the joints of the parts (corners, ribs of stiffness, openings) to avoid the appearance of weakly-free dents.

Dirty headlights, lights and glasses on the road wipe preliminarly watered with water. This will speed up the cleaning process and relieve scratches. Good road!

Coloring body after repair

Care of decorative car paint coatings

The feasibility of anticorrosive processing is shown by us in ch. 3. Care of decorative car coatings, conducted after its washing, is due to the aesthetic requirements for the appearance of the car, i.e. Need to save color and gloss coating. The requirements of anti-corrosion protection and aesthetic most often coincide, since the pure hydrophobic coating with a good brilliance (for example wax) meets the requirements of anti-corrosion protection.

Care of decorative paint coatings is carried out with the help of pastes, gels and emulsions.

The paste is a solid or liquid two-phase, small-crystalline colloidal system consisting of a liquid component and diffused in it solid fine-crystalline (wax, paraffin, silicate, etc.) of the component.

The gel is a semi-stable, single-phase, fine, transparent, opaleszing or translucent colloidal system with a physically connected liquid phase.

Emulsion is a semi-liquid or liquid colloid two-phase fine-dispersed system with spherical particles of liquid of different types of type "water in oil" (in / m) or "oil in water" (M / B).

Below are the classification (left) and the characteristics of the care of decorative coatings.

Technical requirements and characteristic. Cleansingly, polishing agents should contain abrasive substances with hardness not higher than 4 on the mohca scale, as well as lubricants, such as vaselines, mineral and vegetable oils, vegetable and animal fats (carry or beef fat). In addition to these components, the emulsion contain a solvent and emulsifier. Pasta and emulsion should be easily removed with warm water with detergent (car shampoo). It is also required that the dirt is easily removed from the coating without impairment of the main layer, in the implementation of several circular movements with a cloth with a cleansing agent. When using felt and under a very light pressure, dirt should be deleted immediately. This kind of funds are used only to clean the old paint coating, partially damaged corrosion. After using the funds under consideration, hydrophobic protective preparations should be applied.

Polishing and safety drugs should contain colloidal abrasive substances, the hardness of which cannot exceed 4 on the mox scale, as well as lubricants in the form of an emulsion having protective properties and giving shine after polishing. These include: synthetic or natural ether wax, oxidized microwave, emulsifiers, organic solvents and silicone oils. These substances with water form an emulsion of type V / m. They should easily remove minor stains of oils and dirt from paint coatings when they are first applied to the surface. When re-applying (pure cloth) should remain a thin, easily polished coating. This kind of coating is easily washed off in the rain and it must be updated frequently. Preparations are easily applied (without pressure) and therefore are easy to use. However, the hydrophobization of the surface is insignificant, and the protective effect, especially in the cream and on the joints, is small.

Decorative and hydrophobic drugs intended for the care should contain substances with hydrophobic properties to prevent the surface moistening with drops of dew and rain. They should create a coating that is easily polished to the full shine after drying for 5-10 minutes. They are usually applied to a new or intact coating. When applying the emulsion, the surface does not have to be dry, but if the gel is used, the surface must be carefully dried. Preparations of this type should not contain abrasive, alkaline substances such as soap, ammonia, as well as connections that could affect the color change or softening of coatings. The use of emulsifiers must be preceded by the study, as they can soften the outer layer of thermal coating. The use of silicone oil requires caution so that the drug does not get on the glass. The main raw materials for the preparation of the means of this type are highly solid natural waxes, silicone oil, aluminum stearate and organic solvents. The coating is solid, has protective and decorative properties and does not create secondary stains during a car washing or in contamination. Preparations have a form of thick emulsions of type M / B as a cream, as well as translucent jelly, containing the fraction of oil hydrocarbons with good volatility.

G Idroofobyribating protective agents are used as anti-corrosive coatings, waterproof and resistant salt mortar. They should contain essential synthetic waxes, microwaves and oxidized microwaves with low water-retaining solvent, which, after applying, wax paste form a solid dense coating, resistant to erosion action of water, salt solution and snow. In principle, these funds are used to protect against corrosion in winter or during the preparation of a winter operation machine. This coating has a moderate gloss (half-blank), it is easily contaminated, but removed with gasoline. It can be applied only on a thoroughly washed and dried body, as well as on electroplating coatings (buffers, wheel caps). Especially important to use coatings for sealing joints, roof gutters, lower edges of wings and doors. These drugs are a translucent semi-liquid gel or solid pastes that do not contain abrasives. At the end of the winter period, the paste is washed off and during the summer hydrophobic care products or polishing safety facilities are used. On the auto plants, drugs of this type are used in the form of a liquid paste, which can be sprayed on the body. It is required that these drugs have a carefully selected composition of alifactic solvents, not aggressive with respect to fresh coating.

The use of drugs in practice. Before treating the body, it is necessary to thoroughly wash it with water containing a small amount of surfactant (surfactant). . It is strictly recommended to use random surfactants or washing powders, as they are very spoiled paint and, in addition, penetrating the doors, thresholds, joints, under sealing gaskets, and so-called., Accelerate the process of corrosion.

For the safety of the body, the protection of the joints, slots, as well as the places of the metal connection with gaskets are very important. These places are most susceptible to corrosion and, as a rule, it begins with them.

With a periodic inspection and caring for the body during the operation of the car, these places should be given the biggest attention. After careful car wash, a scrupulous inspection of all these places is carried out and, if necessary, they are additionally cleaned from dirt. After the body is wiped out dry, a protective drug is introduced into these places, for example, Shutsavak (GDR) is very convenient in use for this Delhi preparations in the form of aerosols. Under the gaskets, a protective preparation is introduced using a solid brush. After completing the work, it is necessary to remove the drugs with adjacent surfaces with a cloth. Below are Polish preparations for the care of decorative paint coatings.

Incopol - to care and protect against corrosion.

Automax - abrasive paste with polishing action.

Betapol - cleansing emulsion.

ES-1 wax paste - for hydrophobization and shine with paint and varnish coating.

Automiral - Pasta for cleaning and polishing paintworks.

Autopolcher - to protect against corrosion and hydrophobization of the coating.

Beskid - Pasta for cleaning and giving gloss with paintwork.

Neo-autosil - to protect against corrosion and hydrophobization of paintwork.

Auuto Luxon - wax paste with abrasive for cleaning paints and varnishes.

Cream-luxous - for polishing and hydrophobization of paint and varnish coating.

LAVONAL - Liquid for removing oil stains and lubricants.

Outpaste - paste to remove oil and lubrication.

A good quality is also distinguished by traditional means of production of GDRs, such as Shutsavak, Aero-46, Globo-Autoflege and autopolish-shout, as well as drugs produced in Czech Republic, automatic suppsities, carim (with the addition of silicate oil, which increases the hydrophobicity of the protective layer). Preparations apply according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

How to properly care for the LCP car in winter And what is the difference between the leave between winter and summer?

First of all, each self-respecting motorist must remember that winter roads are treated with salt, sand, reagents, etc. All these substances contribute to the speedy education and the emergence of corrosion on your car.

The fact is that corrosion is formed in those places of the car, where the paint coating is damaged. Initially, the "virgin" factory LCP protects the body from the exposure to the external environment and the destructive impact of moisture, dirt, sand, etc. However, in the process of operation, the paint coating of the car is damaged: flew off the stone, spit from ahead winter tires, sand, dust, etc. In any case, the paint layer is damaged, opening access to detrimental effects to the metal. And the metal itself, if it is certainly not galvanized, is very quickly covered with rust. And in case Rust disputes penetrated deeply into metal, without serious money and labor, you can not get rid of rust.

Recommendations are very simple: do not allow the appearance of rust. In the summer, on the street, plus temperature and all moisture evaporates with the elements of the car independently, without remaining in the cracks of the LCP, nor in the joints between body panelsnor in the hidden cavities of the car body. In winter, it is very important to wash the car regularly! Imagine: then thaw, then frost, then thaw, then frost. You just think about what happens with a paint coating of the car. There is a small crack in the paint or varnish on the body of the car, a thaw - moisture / water falls into the crack, frosts - the water turns into ice, and the ice, as it is known, expands, with the next pair of "decelery freezing" everything is repeated and so indefinitely. And if your car, among other things, is also covered with a layer of winter reagents, salt and pexation, then in the crack of the LCP, in addition to moisture, also will also get a "amazing" effective composition on separating the protective layer of the car. As a result, what we have: there was an invisible to the human eye a crack on the LCP, in the entire winter it was under the influence of ice and moisture increased, and even the "wear" was soaked in salt and reagents. What metal will stand here. Therefore, do not comprehend time and money, and as much as possible wash your car not only in winter, but at any other time of the year.

Also, some advise special wax compounds in winter period in order to create a protective film for a paint coating of a car. At the present time, there are a lot of such compositions and in any car store there are special compositions, moreover, on any self-self-sink, there is such a service as the treatment of body elements with wax. Do not skimp on car care! Remember that preventing is easier than correct!

Using these tips you can be sure that you will extend the life of your car's body!

Good luck on the roads and strong, not rusty body!)))

Permanent painside care is a job that always justifies itself, as matte, paint surfaces with scratches significantly worsen the appearance of the car Fiesta. New surface does not require big attention. There is enough constant washing and eliminating traces from stones, stains of asphalt and insect residues. Caring for the paint coating must be started immediately after the car washing. The sun, rain, salt on the roads, dirt and other negative environmental impact make their black things, so the paint coating constantly requires thorough cleaning.

Painter Coating Care

What a means to choose is depends on the state of your car. A new, well-preserved coating of a sufficiently soft polyerol. It aligns the small irregularities of the paint coating, formed from bad weather and mechanical influences. In addition, modern polyterols are in their composition wax components that can be preserved with paintwork. For a new coating, the use of a strong cleaning agent leads to its damage - for the old, having many cracks, it is just right, since the result of its application will be brilliant.

Solid care paintwork

First of all, the cleaning agent acts as a polyrolol, its recipe contains relatively large particles of the abrasive agent, which removes strong contaminants. Before you decide to repaint your battered car, try to apply a high-quality cleaning agent. As a rule, cleaning products do not contain preservative components. Therefore, the prepared (purified) paintwork on the second stage is covered by car wax.

Harmful effects of the Sun on the paintwork

With a new or restored paintwork, it is recommended to carry preservation for two to or three times a year. It supports shine and optimizes the protection of the coating for a long time. Most polishes and cleaning products in bright sun act very aggressively on the paintwork. Therefore, work is better in the shade or in the garage, there chemical compounds have no chance of damaging the paintwork of your Fiesta car.

Sequence of work

1. Wash thoroughly and dry the car.

2. On a relatively non-eye-catching place at first, check how the paintwork with a polyroller interacts.

Apply only a thin layer of the tool, since too much cleaner is complaining with a larger layer of paint coating than is required. Better clean the surface into several receptions.

3. Apply the polyrolol or cleaning agent cotton and synthetic cotton (tampon with a fist size). Rubber circular movements With a light pressure. Always handle only a small area.

4. After a short time, a dry white layer is formed, which is polished with circular motions. With a strongly damaged paintwork, pay attention to the edges. Do not process one place for too long, otherwise coating the coating to the primer.

5. Change or turn your cotton ball regularly, since its surface is clogged with polyrol or cleaning agents.

6. To remove the remaining polishing substance and wool fibers at the end of the work, wipe the surface with a clean cotton cloth.

Preservation of paint and varnish coating

1. Apply automotive wax onto cotton. The dimensions of the surface treated depend on the applied tool.

Fig. 3.12. Drawing a cotton swab platter with circular motions with a slight pressure on the surface area of \u200b\u200b0.5 m 2

2. Apply a canning remedy with a light pressure of circular motions: uniform application increases the glitter of the car's paint coating (Fig. 3.12)

A WARNING

Conservation tools have a high solvent content, so in closed rooms take care of sufficient ventilation.

Fig. 3.13. Rubbing a cotton tampon of a white layer of preservative before receiving the perfect shine

In order for the coating to be transparent and without drowshes, a white layer of means rubbed to the brilliance with large cotton swabs. When polishing movement becomes difficult, turn or change your cotton swab (Fig. 3.13).

3. The wool should easily slide with low resistance on the coating. Therefore, more often turn your cotton swab and change it in a timely manner.

4. If, after applying a preservative on the coating, bands or cloud spots remained, the reason is the contaminated particles of paint remaining from the previous polishing. These places are once again treated with this polishing paste.

Fig. 3.14. Repeated treatment of a cotton cloth of a polished surface to remove a preservative layer and wool fibers

Finally, once again polish the surface with a cotton cloth. By this you remove the remaining layer of preservative and, naturally, the wool fibers (Fig. 3.14).

Fig. 3.15. Soft polishing paintwork

If, when applied to the paint surface, the preservative is rolled into the droplets, the surface coating voltage is too large. In this case, before conservation, try to process this place with a soft polishing (Fig. 3.15).

The surface of the car body is subjected to quite sharp temperatures. Due to the difference in the coefficients of the expansion of the body metal and multilayer paint coating in the coating, internal stresses occur, leading to the appearance of microcracks, which at first only lower the gloss of coatings. They accumulate dirt and moisture and gradually microcracks increase and reach the metal surface. The corrosion and destruction of the car body begins.

Simultaneously occur other types of aging. The upper layer of the binder is destroyed, and the pigment particles appear on the surface of the coating. This process is called melo. The coating at the same time becomes matte and whiten.

Stop the process of destruction of paint coatings is impossible, but it can be very slowed down. This requires constant and qualified care for paint coatings. The care is to regularly wash the coatings, the reduction of gloss by treatment with polishing compositions, and if necessary, as a result of the elimination of small defects of coatings before corrosion defect in the site spreads.

Curious statistics: Today in the world more than 2,000 types of household chemicals of various purposes are used, the annual volume of their release exceeds 50 million tons, and about one tenth of part (5 million tons) of drugs, one way or another related to the application for repair, care and operation of cars.

Of course, many vehicle repair operations are performed at stations. maintenance, and in market conditions, the volumes and range of services they provide grow in geometric progression. Car service is ready to do everything that the client wishes. Yet motorists independently perform many car care and repair operations, the industry produces a wide range of chemicals to perform body repair and car care. Even more new high quality materials come from abroad.

What to say, chemistry and diligence prolong the service life of the car, support a good appearance and reliability, make it easier and reduce the time for its service.

Chemicals of car care products have been recently called autocossets. When a limited range of these funds was produced (mainly detergent and polishing), this name was legitimate. Later, the assortment was replenished with many other drugs: protective, anti-corrosion, operational, sealing.

Classification of car care products

First of all, we note that the car rental preparations are in close connection with other types of household chemicals, sometimes their applications coincide. Some chemical preparations for car care ("refiner of glass" and other) are intended not only for cleaning from pollution of car glass, but also for cleaning window windows in our apartments.

And some preparations of household chemicals can be used when repairing a car and care for it, at least, for example, "moment-1" adhesive, which can also be used for car repair.

This does not mean that the autopreparations can be replaced by domestic products.

By aggregative state, chemicals for car care are divided into liquid, pasty and solid. TO liquid drugs Suspensions (mixtures of liquid and insoluble solids) and emulsion (mixtures of mutually insoluble liquids, which are stratified during storage), which must be blamed before use. Solid drugs We are produced by powdered, granulated (particle diameter of more than 0.2 mm), tableted and in the form of blocks (particle diameter more than 20 mm). Powders during storage are often joined, and when using dusty, irritating the upper respiratory tract. These shortcomings are deprived of granulated drugs.

Intermediate position between liquid and solid means occupy pastyand Paddares.

At the concentration of active substances, the autodigerations are divided into ready to useand Concentrates. Concentrates are diluted with water or other solvent. Obviously, concentrates are more convenient when stored due to compactness.

Also distinguished drugs one-timeand Multiple use.

AutoPreparations are produced in packages weighing from several grams to 5 kg. Most often, they are packaged in cardboard boxes, polymer (polyethylene, PVC, etc.), glass and tin cans, bottles, cans, packets made of paper and film materials (polyethylene, cellophane, duplicated - for example, aluminum foil coated with paper), combined Taru, "plug" and "hose" packaging from PVC films, tubes, etc.

Functional devices are connected to the packaging form: devices for opening the package, applying the drug, packaging eases, etc.

More complex, but effective in the sense of functional devices are aerosol packaging - cylinders. They can be aluminum, tin, glass, plastic.

The cylinders are most often filled with a mixture of a solution of active substances in alcohol, kerosene or in another solvent inert easily surrounding substance - propellant (fluorochlorogenic conditions, a mixture of propane with butane, carbon dioxide, etc.). A pairs of propellant (more often a mixture of two or three chemicals) at room temperature create an overpressure of 0.7 MPa in the cylinder.

Of some types of aerosol cylinders, the active composition is not in the form of an aerosol cloud, but as a jet of liquid composition, paste or foam.

According to efficiency and method of use, the device with an aerosol packaging is largely similar to an amphibious packaging, although the spraying of liquid composition from the cylinder is performed by air pressure generated by the mechanical sprayer pump when pressed by a finger on the rod. Unlike the aerosol, the active composition in the unprofile packaging can be updated several times.

Uncoiled packaging has a significant environmental advantage compared to aerosol packaging, since it does not have a propellant, which is used sometimes and freons.

By appointment, the chemicals for car care are divided into the following types : Detergents, cleaning, polishing, protective, sealing, operational, auxiliary. The range of autopreparations is constantly updated due to the replacement of drugs that do not meet the modern level, more efficient.

What and how wash cars

Undoubtedly, the car wash is the simplest operation in all the maintenance of a car that does not require high qualifications. However, simplicity does not significantly reduce its importance. It should be given a few recommendations that allow you to save the color of the car.

How to wash the car? Best with the use of rubber hose, but only without a metal tip, so that it is not scratching the body cover. For washing, you also need a brush with long soft hair or a large painting brush. Many car enthusiasts for body washing use a foam sponge or rag. With the use of these funds, it is necessary to be attentive: they keep in themselves the dirt, which, like emery, can spoil the top layer of body covering.

Remember: You will spend less work if you wash the car immediately after the trip, when the dirt still did not dry, but you will definitely wait until the hood is cooled, since microcracks are possible with cutting water in the coating. For the same reason, do not wash the car in the summer under the right sunny rays.

If the car is washed with the hose, then not to damage the paintwork, the water pressure should not be too large. Only for washing the bottom of the car in order to save water pressure can be somewhat increased.

Dried dirt should not be chopped by solid objects, so as not to damage the paint carbon coating of the car, at first it should be softened by a weak jet of water.

The car is usually wash like this: first pour the messenger jet of water, waiting for a few minutes, while the dirt softening, and then a brush, moistened in a predetermined shampoo solution, is treated with the body surface, abundantly watering these places with water (better from the hose).

If the car is heavily polluted, it is more practical to first wash it from below on the overpack, and then on top, starting from the roof and ending the bottom. Last but washed the wheels. After washing the shampoo, the body must be thoroughly rinsed with clean water.

The last operation is very important, which, as a rule, does not pay attention to: removing from the clean surface of the remaining water droplets. Water drops act like a magnifying glass. The solar rays concentrated with them form blessed spots on the paint-and-paint coating. To remove the drops, it is best to use suede pre-dipped in clean water and pressed. After removal of water droplets, the body surface is wiping with a clean dry cloth.

Wash the car should be cold or warm water, but not hot. The difference between body and water temperatures should not exceed 15-20 ° C.

If you wash the car with hot water, it will lead to the formation of microcracks in the paint and the subsequent rapid destruction. Therefore, if the car was standing for a long time in the cold, it is advisable to put it in a warm place for heating, and the flushed surface before leaving the frost you need to wipe well.

Special attention is paid to windows. They are not recommended to wipe with dry rags, and dry windshield is clean with wiper brushes. This requirement is explained by the fact that dry dirt and dust, falling on the rag, affect the glass as sandpaper and scratch it. The glass at the same time fades, each scratch refracts light rays at different angles. At night, this is one of the reasons for blinding the driver from the headlights of the counter car.

It is possible to remove the film from the friction of the glass and interfere with the friction of the glass from the friction of the glass from the water from the water, it is useful to wipe the windshield and wiper brushes with a 10-15% soda solution.

Water residues after washing contribute to the destruction of paint and corrosion development. Remove water residues with drying and wiping. At maintenance stations for these purposes, cars are blown by air. It is best to wipe the car with clean rags, suede, flannel, periodically washing them in water.

While wiping the body, a gray dirt is removed from it, located in a dispersed state and poorly washed with a jet of water.

If on the street frost, and you wash the car in the warm room, then before you go out, wipe the body dry. Otherwise, water drops will be frozen and served under them in the paint coating of the body can form cracks.

Before you begin to wash the body, do not forget to clean the drainage holes of the doors, thresholds, as well as the front wings, otherwise the water fell into internal cavities will be an active corrosion source.

According to the difficulty of removing from the surface of the car, pollution can be conditionally divided into three types: weak-knitted (sand with clay), medium-dimensional (sand with clay and with impurities of organic and oily substances) and flusted (resinous pollution).

Weakly coupled pollution can be washed with water, medium-sized and strength contaminants are unlikely to be removed with one water. But all these contaminants are well removed using detergents.

NO R A V I L O P E R B O E: You can not use for the car wash washing ordinary synthetic detergents and soap.

NOTE: For washing of paintwork coatings, as well as upholstery and plastic parts of the car, an autosamps are used, which includes surface-active substances, alcohols, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium tripolyphosphate, caprolactam, liquid sodium glass, polyacrylamide .

Autosamps are produced in the form of liquid, pasty and powdered drugs.

The recipes of auto-mappings are being developed with such a calculation so that they do not have a corrosion action. There is a car shutup, the use of which contributes to anticorrosive protection.

Paint and paint coatings and upholstery of cars wash with liquid car superstams, for which, according to the instructions, a certain amount of shampoo is dissolved in water and with a sponge, veto, or a soft brush wash the surface, then wash it with clean water. Shampoo can be used on washing installations: 50 g per car. For the same purposes, there is a concentrated car sufficient, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 200 before manual soil, then the surface of the car as a conventional shampoo is wash.

Mechanical washing is made according to the instructions for washing plants. The consumption of the drug with an automatic washing of 35-50 g of auto-pump per car.

Tools such as an anti-corrosion effect of anti-corrosion effect washed manually or on the washers, paint coatings of the car in the same way as concentrated. These shampoos include anti-corrosion additives that eliminate the corrosion action of water for metal. Such shampoos are especially recommended for washing damaged paintwork.

For washing and short-term conservation of paint coatings of cars, powdered means are effective. A certain amount of powder is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The car body is wrapped with water, then wetted with a cooked solution and evenly wash off the contamination, starting from the roof. The entire body surface should be constantly wet. After washing the body is rinsed with a mesmer jet of water, so as not to destroy the resulting protective film.

High efficiency has autopreparations for washing thresholds, intended for flushing closed cavities and the bottom of the body before anti-corrosion treatment.

And how was the cars in the car service?

Service in the service station starts with an outdoor washing. The bucket poured the car shutup, then water: this order allows you to better mix the components. The temperature of the water is not controlled too strictly - the hands of the washer should easily endure it. If the water is hot, you will have to wait until it cools, since the paint coating of the body is harmful. Very cold water also for nothing: the hands and shampoo runs worse.

Champunker quality indicator - foam: good shampoos are very imposed. The foam when washing the body performs the role of lubrication that impedes the formation of scratches, and keeps surfactants, special cleaners and waxes throughout the sink.

When using high-quality car suits on the surface of the body remains a wax protective layer.

The car is conveniently washed with a special sponge with pores in which solid particles fall and do not scratch paint. Dense foam rubber as a sponge for washing is not suitable. You can wash a special brush.

Then the body is rinsed with plenty of clean water and wipe. You can not wipe, but if the car dries in the sun, the body will cover with white spots. These are dissolved in water salts.

PRIVE: Wipe the car suede, it absorbs water well, does not leave the fibers on the body and simultaneously rubs and distributes waxes. Suede may be genuine, but it is more profitable to use synthetic. It is cheaper, but it is not less and no worse.

I suede will be well replaced by an old terry towel, it is old. New towel worse.

A well-washed car pleases the eye, but may also disappear, if it is found that the upper layer of a lako-colorful coating began to collapse. It is covered with a network of microcracks. If you spend on the surface with your hand, you can feel rough.

How to refresh the coverage? To do this, you can use the Color Backstandrs of Color Back or Antitrapine Restoretor. Thanks to the superfluous abrasive and high-speed cleaners, these drugs help pollize the body well and quickly.

Restorers remove oxidation (dim, grungy paint layer), restore the color and shine and complete the preparation of the surface for applying a protective wax polyrol.

Well restores the coating universal paste "Antitzarapin". It does not damage the paint, aligns grinding shallow scratches. It remains only to protect the coating with a wax polyrol.

If the scratch reaches the soil or metal, the grinding will not help, but the defect must be hidden. The scratch is filled with a wax tinting pencil, then treated with color-enrichered (containing the necessary pigment) polyrol.

NOTE: If the paint coating is oxidized and gluits, after washing and wipes, switch to protective polishing. For this serve as colorless or color-enrichered poly rays containing wax. They mask microcracks. They level the surface, fill the microcracks, forming a protective layer. The grain of the microabrasive powder of these polyrolles is very small, it strokes the surface. The process is absolutely safe for paint coatings.

If the car is new, the activities to remove or disguise surface defects are not needed, you can immediately apply a protective layer.

A non-abrasive preservative gloss Gloss Guard has proven itself as a protective preservative. Preservative forms polymer protective coveringwhich protects the paint from the harmful effect of the environment. A durable and slippery film formed by a preservative actively repels the dirt.

This bright preservative can be used on older cars as an additional surface protection tool already treated with any wax polyrol.

The sequence of drugs used is as follows: shampoo, color reducing agent, polyrololand Preservative shine.

All drugs are applied according to the instructions: they are applied, they give dry, then placed.

How often should such prophylactic body processing? The surest sign: as soon as the moisture on the surface of the body ceased to gather in the droplets, it's time to handle the body according to the full program.

Details of plastic (bumpers), as a rule, porous. Mechanically dirt from the recesses are not removed, but it is possible to use the principle of its chemical substitution, for example, the Cleaning Machine of Trim Clean. Then the processing continues to the means containing pigments ("black chromium"). When processing plastic, the principle is the same: first the surface is purified, then coated with a protective layer.

For completeness, the impression should take care of tires. With mud helps to cope any universal cleaner for vinyl, plastic and rubber. But preservatives for rubber are almost never found, there are a combined means of cleaner + preservative. On the service life of the tires, the processing will not affect, but the general view of the car will improve.

A few words about expenses. In the capital, a professional washing, a reducing polishing and dry cleaning cost from 200 y. e. and above. Expensive. The set of drugs for self-processing will cost 30-50 y. e. Some drugs from this set are enough for a long time, others - for a very long time. We usually do not believe the cost of your work, so the decision is obvious, the savings are huge.

If you do not help shampoos

To clean the various parts and aggregates of the car from contamination (rust, nagar, etc.), which cannot be removed using a car sucking, serve cleaning products.

These drugs find stable application both during operation and the repair of the car. They are divided into means of cleaning paint and metal surfaces, as well as engine cleaners and glass cleaners.

To remove bitumen, fatty and oil stains with paint surfaces of the car, liquid drugs such as chumper bitumen spots. They contain highly active solvents (trichloroethylene, kerosene, etc.).

To remove a bitumen spot, the cleaner moistened with a wool or tissue tampon and wipe the contaminated place, not allowing outers. The thick layer of bitumen is pre-softened by a richly moistened tampon. After processing, the surface is wiped with a dry soft cloth.

In this way, you can remove stains from working clothes. But before removing spots from the fabric, it is necessary to pre-make sure the tissue resistance to the drug.

Bitumen spots are produced in aerosol packaging. The cleaner is sprayed on the cleaning surface, and after 1 min, the spots are removed by a tampon. After processing, the surface is wiped with a dry soft cloth.

To remove with rust with metal surfaces with a chemical way before applying bitumen anticors for the bottom or before coloring, paste-shaped rust cleaners type "Omega-1" are used. In their composition carboxymethylcellulose, orthophosphoric acid, aerosil, inhibitor. Using these funds, it is removed with rust from horizontal, vertical and ceiling metal surfaces. Make it: first, the surface of the metal is purified from plastic and loose rust, then a thoroughly stirred cleaner is applied to a spatula or a brush with a layer of 1-3 mm on a rusty surface and withstand 5-30 minutes depending on the thickness of the rust layer, then the cleaner is removed with a dry cloth or brushed. Surface wipe dry.

For rapid removal of dirt, oils and other water insoluble pollution from the surface of the engine and automobile units, liquid autocratics of the type "Engine" type are effective. They are released both in ordinary and aerosol packaging. The "engine-chipper" contains butyl alcohol, surfactants, white spirit, etc.

Before using these tacifers, pre-disconnect rechargeable battery.

The method of use is simple: Before use, the cleaner is shaking, then applied to a contaminated surface with a sprayer or brush, after 10-15 minutes, the contaminated place is washed with water until the resulting emulsion is completely removed.

To clear the car engine will need 500-700 cm 3 of this.

Engine cleaner in aerosol packaging is particularly convenient for processing hard-to-reach places in engines. air cooling. Before spraying the cleaner, first disconnect the battery, and the cylinder shakes. 1-2 minutes after spraying, the contaminated space was washed with water until the generated emulsion is completely removed.

Remember: Clean the engine with gasoline is impossible.

For cleaning wind, side and rear glasses The car body with moderate and low temperatures (up to -27 ° C) use liquid automobiles of the type "temperature-chipper" containing alcohols, surfactants, etc.

Wash the windows of the car cleaner for window glass is not recommended.

Windshields are clean manually either with a wedge. The cleaner is diluted with water in a 1: 5 ratio. At low temperatures (below -5 ° C) you need to fill the windshield washer tank with an undivided cleaner.

To clean the glasses, drugs are also sold in aerosol packaging.

To remove pollution from paint coatings and decorative vehicles without water (for example, in winter time), You can use fast meals with silicone. When using such means on the purified surface, a protective film is formed, protecting paintwork and electroplating coatings from atmospheric influences.

Preparations are applied to a polluted surface with a sponge. After 3-5 min, pollution is removed by a rag, and the purified surface is arched with a dry soft cloth.

Remember: for removal of hardwood spots on the paintwork, it is unacceptable to use gasoline.

Do not forget about such means as thoroughflowers of scale. These liquid or powders are used to remove the scale from the car cooling system. Liquid remedies contain acetic acid, a ditrium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, carboxymethylcellulose, surfactants, etc.

Application technology Next: The remedy is diluted with water (1: 7) and the resulting solution is poured into the cooling system; The engine is launched by 1-3 hours (depending on the amount of scale); The contents are drained and washed three times with a solution with a solution of soda calcined (a glass of soda on 8 liters of water), hot water, cold water. The drug consumption: for the cooling system with a capacity of 8 liters, it is enough to 1 liter of the quotor of scale.

To remove a nagar with cylinder heads, pistons, valves of exhaust pipelines and engine spark plugs, apply autocratic cleaners, solvents (kerosene, xylene, etc.), and automotive oil. Use the drug when the engine is heated in accordance with the method specified on the label.

Many problems car enthusiasts deliver winter cold. To remove ice and Inea from glass windows, preventing their icing, defrosting the locks is effective "Authority" in aerosol packaging. It includes ethylene glycol, glycerin, etc. The brush or the rag is removed by a layer of snow or loose ice, Then the tool is sprayed on the icing surface. The thawed glass is wiped with a soft cloth.

To prevent icing, the defrostant is applied to the glass with a thin uniform layer.

Clear contamination and degrease the friction lining, as well as metal parts of the brakes and the clutch will help the means in the stop aerosol packaging. The cylinder is shaken, the contents are sprayed from a distance of 6-8 cm on the part being processed until the dirt is completely removed. Use such a means at a balloon temperature not lower than 15 ° C. If the dirt layer is thick, it is pre-removed by mechanically.

What is except shine?

Polishing agents are used to maintain and restore the gloss of paintwork and the extension of its service life, which means that the service life of the body.

Polishing agents are used depending on the service life of the car and the state of its straight-colorful coating.

On the purpose of the polyrolol, it is possible to divide into three groups:

1) for new paint and varnishes (for cars in the first year of operation). These funds contain montan-waxes, ceresins, resins, oleic acid, triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, white spirit, etc. Such formulations are removed from the paint surface persistent pollution, fill the micropores and microcracks of the coatings, form a solid film that protects the coating from harmful effects of the external environment;

2) for odd paintwork coatings (for cars operating within 2-3 years). These funds contain, besides waxes and other substances included in the means for new coatings, soft abrasives of small dispersion, under the action of which the micronetherics of the paint layer are eliminated, while the surface is covered with a protective film;

3) for old paint coatings (after 3 years of operation of cars). These funds contain significant amounts of larger and solid abrasives (electrocorundum, kaolin, etc.), paraffins, vaselines, antioxidants, kerosene, etc.; They contribute to the elimination of deeper micronics. The agents for old coatings have weak protective properties, so after their use, it is recommended to further treat the surface with a polishing agent for new coatings. When leaving the old coating, a longer surface polishing is required.

The weather resistance of coatings increases with the introduction of special additives that improve physico-mechanical properties to the composition of polishing and preservative means protective filmswhich as a result can withstand up to 5-10 miles.

For example, the domestic drug type "auto-polyarol protective" preserves the glitter of the paint coating and decorative metal parts, protects them from the atmospheric effect, removes the contamination implantable water, and also suspends the metal corrosion in places of damage to the coating.

The method of application is simple: having stolen the contents of the packaging, the auto-polyrol tampon is applied to a pre-washed surface and rubbing, then the circular motions are arranged with a soft cloth before the appearance of shine. Auto-polyarols for new coatings are often produced in aerosol packaging. The aerosol cylinder shake and spray polyrolol into a small area of \u200b\u200bthe surface, then the circular motions are arranged with a soft tissue.

Remember: in all cases of the use of polyroli, the surface of the car is pre-washed and dried.

With permanent operation and storage of the car under the open sky, the car body is processed by such auto-polyarols after the first two months of operation, and then the processing is carried out 2 times a month.

Auto-polyarols for weathered coatings are treated with a paint surface 1-2 times a year.

Convenient dealerships of repeated use of woven and nonwoven materials impregnated with special compositions.

Motor flesh type "Polir" are used to care for paints. Washing dry surface is treated with a napkin with circular motions. The treatment of the paint surface of the body is recommended to be carried out every 3-4 sinks.

Recently, the requirements of motorists to auto-polyarols, brilliance, which is achieved with their help has increased significantly. Specialists will tell you that even new car Not yet a standard and that it can better look old, but thoroughly grated polyrolol. The secret is that the transparent film generated by the polyrolol is optically less dense than the enamel of the body, which creates a mirror effect.

The composition of the polyroline is changing. Let's say, they used to be made only on the basis of beeswax, then synthetics came to replace the wax. Silicon and fluorine-containing compositions, as a rule, are inferior to natural wax in the durability of the film, but they do not have such a harmful effect, as a trituration of trituration, so it is not necessary to rub a rag to the same place. This does not mean that the wax is no longer applied. In the West, where new items are mastered faster, and today a number of firms retain in the range of their products preparations containing wax, artificial and natural.

Experience shows that most of the polyterols are the most common in trade in the composition of the effect (gloss depth) are close to each other. According to experts, the use of polyrolles on enamels of non-lack of tones (cherry, dark blue, dark green, etc.), but they increase slightly.

If the quality is approximately the same, then interest can represent differences in the convenience of using polyrolles. According to this indicator, auto-polyarol can be divided into several groups.

The largest group - liquid consistency of thick cream. It is convenient to apply them to horizontal surfaces, it is enough to pour out of the bottle and dispersed with a thin layer - it turns out quickly and economically.

The vertical planes will not be handled. Wings and doors have to be treated with a rag.

Group dense, copper-shapedand Pasty polyrollas slightly less. They do not flow from vertical surfaces. As a rule, these are more expensive drugs than liquid. Effectiveness is also higher - they give a deeper shine and hold longer.

The third group includes compositions, viscosity resembling milk. It is inconvenient to apply: a rag is absolutely impregnated, which is surface and processed, otherwise the film will be fine and short-lived.

The following group is the most convenient in use. aerosols. Of course, they are an order of magnitude higher: for convenience you have to pay.

And the last group - polyrols for washing. Very comfortable in work: you need to spray and wash off with water. Do not exercise with a rag.

Apply thick compositions more convenient than liquid. The latter, spreading over the surface of the body, become invisible, so when processing can not notice and skip some kind of plot. True, specialists note differences in the origin of drugs. "SELF WAX", although transparent, is perfectly visible on the surface, since it forms fatty divorces resembling vaseline. Polyrol from stro is more like a shampoo, even by applying it to a brush, which flows on the ground. The aerosol from Novosibirsk, unlike the German Pingo, has to be sprayed with excess, as the drug does not stick to the enamel and on the shiny surface is almost impaired.

Most modern polyterols are applied according to the scheme: lubricate the surface with a thin layer, waiting until drying, when the drug turns into powder, and triturated with cotton fabric to shine.

The shorter the drying time is, the better, although such drugs, such as "Vision" from Tartl Waks, dry for a long time, and quickly rub. In short, the processing is crucial. For one reception, you need to handle a large area, say, roof, hood and trunk. When the polyrolle dries, polish these body planes can be in five minutes. However, to process the car with a size with the "Lada" with a long-drying composition like this, such as "Excalibur" containing natural wax, will have an hour and a half.

The glitter and its depth is directly dependent on the thickness of the polyrol film. And here is a thick drug type "Vision", drying on the body after applying in thick white crust, will not find yourself equal in decorative properties. A poly rays with milk consistency, aerosol and shampoo-shampoo, spreading on the enamel thin layer, are inferior of shine. That is why manufacturers of liquid polyters are recommended to apply them twice, then the film is thicker.

Evaluation of water-repellent properties of modern polyterols can be positive. They even withstand 10 miles with clean water with intermediate drying in the sun.

In general, it is not easy to estimate the current range of polishes. Some of them are better in one and inferior in the other, others - on the contrary. Nevertheless, some conclusions can be done. It makes no sense to choose the most expensive polyroli. However, especially to save is also unprofitable, the pennies are rather grieved than they will get.

Compositions from "Liquimi Moli" and "Vince" are popular. They do not deliver problems when processing the body, attractive and low price, allowing you to rub quite often. The decorative effect will provide Diamant Rolish from Pipgo.

Once again about protecting the body

Statistics says that after three years of operation of the car on its metal details there are more than 100 foci of corrosion. How many foci of corrosion on the car stored in an open-air and operated on the roads processed by chemical preparations from icing, statistics do not report.

Especially strong corrosion are the bottom and wings, as well as the inner surfaces of the thresholds, spars, door housings. There are foci of corrosion in places of scratches, defects and damage to the paintwork, on the parts of the motor, chrome details of the body of the car, etc.

Protective facilities commercially available in the car service are intended for protection against bottom corrosion, wings, engine and other painted and unpainted nodes and parts, extension of the service life of rubber parts, etc.

To protect against corrosion of the inner surfaces of the box of the housing and removable parts of the body of new and used cars, as well as for temporary protection of the bodies and the arches of the wheels, autoconsserters of the thresholds of the type of well-known drugs "Movil", "Resistine ML" are used. They contain anti-corrosion additives, White spirit and other components. The above-mentioned compositions easily penetrate the slots and seams, displacing moisture from them and form an elastic film with high protective properties.

Autoconservants are applied at a temperature not lower than 15 ° C sputtering from the spraying, a vacuum cleaner, a garden sprayer, equipping these household aggregates with a flexible spray head hose for administration in closed cavities. Autoconservants, if necessary, dilute with gasoline or White spirit. We recommend processing them every 1-2 years, the material consumption is relatively small - 1.5-2 kg per car.

For painting fuel tanks, radiators, air and oil filters, as well as small metal parts used black-based fed-223 enamel in aerosol packaging. The surface of the parts is purified and degreased. The cylinder is shaken before use (after the start of the beads, the balls shake at many even 2 minutes).

Enamel is applied with a thin uniform layer at a base temperature not lower than 15 ° C. Drying time at 20 ° C - 24 hours, at 60 ° C - 2 hours.

After the end of the work, the cylinder must be flipped over and press the head to the end of the enamel exit (3-4 s). If the head clogged, it must be removed and cleaned the hole with a needle.

For painting engines, wheel disks Aluminum paint is used in aerosol packaging. The painted surface is also purified from dust and dirt, insulate areas that are not to be treated, lubricating a vaseline or covering paper. The cylinder is heated in a water bath to 25-35 ° C and shaken for 3 minutes after the appearance of the balls of balls.

Spray paint at ambient temperature not lower than 15 ° C. The paint is applied with a thin layer 2 times with an intermediate drying of 10 minutes. At 16-25 ° C, the paint dries over 6 hours.

When conducting small repair Paintwork (elimination of individual defective places of paintwork coating of metal surfaces of type scratches, cracks, chosel) Apply primers and nitroemalis of different colors and shades in aerosol packaging. For details on carrying out these works, see above.

To restore the anti-corrosion coating of the bottom of the body and for additional application of anti-corrosion coatings on factory coatings, various autoantikors are used.

Before applying the anticorrium, the surface is cleaned from dirt, retaining the old coating, rust, then degrease it. After careful stirring, the anticorrosive is applied to the surface with a brush or spray gun.

If the drug thickens, as well as when applied by the spray gun, it is bred to the necessary viscosity solvents of type 651, PC-2 or gasoline.

AutoPreparations of the "AutoTikor-2 bituminous for the bottom" contain oil bitumens, phenoloformaldehyde resins, asbestos, toluene, etc. The means have good adhesion to the surface. AutoTarticors for the bottoms of the renubitume contain also crushed rubber. Depending on the type of anticorr, these means are applied in 2-4 layers with interlayer drying for 3-6 hours at 15-25 ° C and the drying of the last layer for 18-48 hours. Coating thickness from 0.4 to 1 mm, consumption Depending on the type of means from 0.5 to 1.5 kg / m 2 .

To restore the anti-corrosion coating of the bottom of the body and mastic applies for additional application to factory coatings. The automotive of the renurbiar anti-corrosion "elastocor" is applied as follows. The surface is purified from dirt, retaining an old coating, rust and degreased by a solvent. Mastics are thoroughly mixed, they are applied with a brush or a spray gun in three layers (for additional protection There are enough single or two layers) with an interlayer drying of about 3 hours and drying of the last layer for 24 hours. The thickness of one layer is 0.35-0.40 mm, the consumption of mastic 0.4-0.5 kg / m 2.

If the mastic thickening is, as well as when it is applied by the paint sprayer, mastic is diluted to the required viscosity with solvents 651, RS-2 or gasoline.

If the mastic came to the paint coating, it is necessary to immediately remove it with the "tumor of bituminous spots."

For the processing of rusty surfaces of coatings, as well as for the temporary protection of unpainted metal surfaces, it is possible to use a "fence" type, which contain varnish, additives, crown zinc, toluene, etc. The surface is purified from dirt and retained old coating. The metal brush is removed by loose and reservoir rust, the surface is degreased by a solvent.

The drug is thoroughly mixed, applied with a decisive brush. The protective coatings are applied by one layer, for temporary protection - two layers with interlayer drying for 1 hour. Protective coatings are applied 1 hour after drying the composition of the soil. The drying time of the soil is 1-2 hours at 20 ° C. Diluted with solvents 651, RS-2.

In order to protect the chrome details of the car from the effects of atmospheric influences and aggressive salts in winter, autolates of the chromofix type can be used. Their composition includes resins, cyclohexanone, toluene, etc. Pre-chrome details are carefully degreased by gasoline. The drug is applied with a brush with smooth strokes, a thin layer, avoiding varnish on painted surfaces and plastic parts.

This protective coating is resistant to water exposure 24 hours after applying.

To impart brilliance, restore the color of tires, seals and other rubber parts and the extension of their service life use autocracy for rubber parts. Their composition includes polyethylsiloxane fluid, ceresin, rosin, soot.

The paint is applied with an equal layer with a brush or a tampon on a thoroughly washed and dried surface. After 24-30 hours, rub the woolen rag to the brilliance. Such processing is recommended to be carried out 2-3 times a year.

In the fall, with the onset of the rainy season, it is necessary to start preparing the car to winter operation. The seasonal preparation includes checking all the places dangerous in corrosion and elimination of identified defects. It is necessary to carry out the following preventive measures:

open polls of corrosion and places in which enamel peelled, carefully pollute and, if necessary, be primed and painted;

check the water flow from the body surface, which will indicate the need to process the body with a wax containing composition, which will give the surface water-repellent properties;

the same compositions to process chrome body parts, but the wax film is not necessary for them that appearance Automars will not significantly affect the protective properties of the film will be higher;

wipe glycerin sealing rubber profiles;

inspect the bottom and brake pipelines for the detection of rust, if necessary, defects eliminate;

check wheel caps and when detected damaged places to restore the protective coating.

The listed works are desirable to spend on a warm meadow day to dry well.

Several comments on the method of storage of the car, which is essential for the state of the paintwork. To keep a good car on a winter parking lot without a garage, you need to take into account the features of the microclimate formed under the cover covering the car. If the car is packed in airtight material so that it does not ensure constant ventilation of the space between the film and the body surface, then in winter on sunny days, when the temperature rises above zero, the greenhouse effect will arise. Under the film, the formation of a couple will begin, which condensing on the surface of the body will destroy the paintwork, much stronger than if the car was at all over the open sky.

When storing cars in the open air, it is impossible to use covers from the water-permeable tissues adjacent to the body surface, as it appears on the surface of the paint coating, spots of lighter tone appear. With long-term contact of the wet tissue with a paint coating, bubbles may appear on it, the metal corrosion will begin.

In winter, a wet protective fabric face the body and with the removal of the case with it, the pieces of paint coating can take away with it.

Practical and "healthier" for the machine to use covers from waterproof fabric, stretched on backups in the form of a tent above the car in such a way that there is an air layer between the protective cloth and the body of the car and the constant ventilation of the space between the fabric and the machine.

With long-term storage of the car on open platform For better maintenance of the car body, it is recommended to cover it with a drug type "autoconservant". These are fluids, before applying, they need to shake, and then apply to the clean, dry surface of the car at a temperature not lower than 5 ° C. After 1.5-2 hours, a translucent matte wax film is formed on the paint and varnish.

When the time comes, the decons is carried out hot (not higher than 60-70 ° C) with water with the addition of shampoo.

After graduation winter seasonwhen on the roads will stop scattering drugs to combat the ice, the remnants of these drugs can persist in dried dirt in hard to reach places The bottom of the car. Therefore, in the spring it is necessary to rinse the bottom, the front and rear wheels jet water under pressure. If this dirt is not removed, then the corrosion of metal surfaces under the action of the chemicals contained in it will be very intense at an increased summer temperature.

Anticorrosive body protection

One of the most reliable means of combating corrosion is the mandatory coating of the body anticorrosive materials When rust appears, detachment or destruction of the old coating. Treatment is usually produced on a lift or overpass when the wheels shot. To process the bottom, we need to wash the car with a weak jet of water from the hose, trying so that the water does not get inside the body. After washing, removing the remaining dirt and moisture from the hidden cavities and dry the car. The drums and brake discs are closed with protective covers, and the cardan transmission, silencer, cables, hoses and other places that are not to be treated with tight paper and adhesive tape.

Applying abrasive skins of various graininess or a washing makeup, which is applied by a hair brush, remove rust falls. The surface treated in this way is degreased by a solvent. The quality of degreasing is checked by paper, which is applied to the surface. If traces of fat appear on paper, the surface is treated with solvent additionally.

To remove rust finally, a special soil is used (GF-020, GF-073, Pentaphlen Emale PF-15, Lead Surik) or the rust cleaner "Omega". The soil is applied with a brush. After drying, the primer on the processed surface is caused by anti-coiled bitumen mastic layer 1-1.5 mm. Mastica is applied by a manually with a spatula, brush or hand in a glove. From the painted surface, mastic can be removed by gasoline.

Preventive car details prophylactic

Outdoor corrosion does not define the durability of parts of transmissions, power units, chassis. The care of them is reduced to periodic removal of dirt, stripping from corrosion products and tinted nitroemals, which allows you to preserve the type of car.

The prevention of the internal corrosion of the engine systems, clutch, braking, cooling and heating is primarily in strictly executing all indications for the use of oils and special liquids and the frequency of their replacement. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the prevention of corrosion destruction from the inside of aluminum radiators of cooling VAZ-2108 and VAZ-2109. The aluminum radiator compared to the brass radiator requires more attention during operation.

The aluminum radiator is mounted on the body through insulating plastic supports. This is done to avoid electrical closure of the engine and the radiator through the body, which leads to the formation of galvanoopara: aluminum tubes of the radiator - the cast iron block of cylinders. If the diluted cooling fluid or water is flooded into the cooling system, the operation of galvanoopara leads to the accelerated destruction of the aluminum tubes of the radiator. The same effect gives the use of coolant with an expired service life.

What conclusion can be made from what has been said? To prevent premature failure aluminum radiator It is necessary to monitor the correctness of the radiator attachment, eliminating the random contacts to it with the body, remove the dirt from the gap between the radiator and the radiator frame, which can also lead to the closure of the radiator with the body. Unacceptable use of dilute coolant. The replacement of the coolant new should be made at least 1 time in 3 years.