Anti-corrosion treatment of the car. How to protect the bottom and wheel arches of a car body from corrosion

The first enemy of any body is corrosion, which is a process of delayed destruction of metal under the influence of external factors.

If the process has already begun, then it cannot be stopped, but it is quite possible to slow it down. Especially for this, anticorrosive is used, which can be considered the most affordable and simple way.

Services for such processing are provided by many craftsmen, but if you want to reduce costs, but at the same time provide decent car care, then you can always apply the coating on your own.

The essence of car anti-corrosion treatment

Moisture and chemicals have a negative effect on the condition of the metal. As a result, it loses its strength and over the years it can crumble just before our eyes.

If this problem is not given due attention, then over time rust will appear, which is already more difficult to deal with, but it is still possible to slow down the process of its development.

The anti-corrosion treatment of the machine greatly extends the service life and provides a protective function. So the body surface will be reliably protected from all influences. environment and the natural aging process.

When starting such work, it is necessary to determine the frequency of the procedure.

The procedure directly depends on the car itself, its condition, brand. Of course, if you have just purchased a brand new foreign car, but for the next few years you can not think about this problem.

If you have replenished your garage with an inexpensive car, then you should immediately carry out the processing, because the manufacturer probably did not provide proper care.

The compounds used to treat the wheel arches and the bottom provide protection only against mechanical stress... If you want the car to serve for a long time, it is worth treating it with anticorrosive treatment once a year.

This periodicity will allow for a diagnostic inspection and repair minor damage that has already occurred on the protective coating.

Materials for work

The components that are used in these works are the constituent parts for the bottom of any body, the inner components of the wing surfaces.

Using them correctly, you will protect every part of the body.

1. For the bottom of the car. Their task is to form a kind of protective film on the surface. They are applied only after cleaning and priming.

The composition must necessarily contain elements (inhibitors) of corrosion, as well as finely dispersed aluminum powder. If you apply the composition yourself, then you should use a regular brush.

Of the domestic options, bituminous mastic with crumb rubber content is most suitable.

2. For wheel arches... This area is most exposed to abrasive wear. Snow, sand, mud, stones fall on the surface. Therefore, this area requires even more attention and care.

The coating materials have in practice the same properties as those listed above. As protection, you can use plastic shields, as well as apply a liquid locker, which is a durable elastic element.

Apply this material in a thick layer to avoid the effects of abrasion. You can also use materials for the bottom of the machine, but apply them in two layers, use a brush to work.

3. For hidden cavities... Spars, floor amplifiers, racks - all these are cavities that are hidden from us, but you can act on them through special holes.

For work with these areas of the body, preservatives of hollow cavities are used, which contain corrosion inhibitors in their composition, and their consistency is similar to oil.

It is not at all surprising that it is like that, because it should get into all joints and cracks. The surface will be covered with a film that protects and, if necessary, displaces water from the metal surface. Such materials are sold even in aerosol form, which greatly simplifies all the work.

Such a variety of materials will pleasantly surprise any car owner. There are various manufacturers, forms of materials on the market, but how to choose the best for your car and what will suit it unquestioningly.

How Do I Pick a Good Anticorrosive?

First of all, it is necessary to resolve the issue with the packaging. If you need to carry out minor repairs to an existing coating, then the best solution Is the purchase of material in.

There is a propellant and a solvent in the base, so the solution is not so powerful.

If it is necessary to carry out more serious work, then it is best to choose an anticorrosive poured into a container, which is provided in different volumes.

At the time of purchase, be sure to familiarize yourself with the composition indicated on the package. In addition, even the label can say a lot.

If the product is of high quality, then there is indicated information about the manufacturer, the number of the standard, the batch, the expiration date, under what conditions to store the product, as well as what precautions exist and much more.

The choice also depends on the type of anticorrosive. Some are designed for external surfaces, and the second for internal. The separation can be easily explained by the composition and functions that the materials perform.

Insofar as outer side is exposed to mechanical stress, then the inner one constantly needs ventilation, each material has its own task.

In addition, the selection is carried out by composition. All funds according to this criterion can be classified into materials based on wax and those that have a bituminous composition. Then various anti-corrosion additives are mixed into a similar base.

And even in this case, the impurities are different, inhibitors are added to the wax material, which can resist corrosion and protect the metal surface. Zinc, bronze and other metals are added to bituminous anticorrosives. These are the main components, but there are others.

You can find substances on a paraffin or plastic-based base with the addition of various impurities in the form of rubber, plastic. Most formulations have an element to displace water. Such an element in the composition is necessary for the treatment of cavities that are constantly in a similar environment.

All anti-corrosion materials are liquid or thick. But whichever you choose, they should form a flat and elastic film that does not drain, does not dry and does not crack.

During the penetration of anti-corrosion liquid into microcracks and body seams, moisture is displaced from them, which slows down the corrosion process.

The thick anti-corrosion compound has components that form a strong bond with the metal. The film that forms slows down the corrosion process and protects the car for 8 years. The bottom is protected from road abrasives.

How to make an anticorrosive with your own hands

To create an anticorrosive with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following components:

Noise isolator, volume 400 ml;
Protective agent against mechanical stress;
Means for anti-corrosion treatment "Cordon" with the possibility of vibration absorption;
Antikorr "Movil-NN", which can be purchased at a car dealership, with a volume of 2.7 liters;
White alcohol for degreasing the surface;
Sealing material for sealing cracks;
Plain plasticine, cannon fat, which can be found on the market.

To carry out the work on their own, it is worth stocking up on brushes, a screwdriver, keys, gloves and patience.

To process the bottom, you will have to remove the wheels, which will speed up the process. The body must also be prepared, it is worth removing the wipers and other parts, and covering the seats in the cabin. Treatment under the wheels is carried out with solvent and sound insulator.

Before the next layer, it is necessary that the previous dry out. But keep in mind that you should not apply more than 4 layers of the noise isolator.

Prepare a mixture of plasticine, "Cordon", bacon, place it in a metal bowl and cook in a water bath. As a result, you should get a homogeneous mass of black tint, only after that turn off the light. This mixture is applied with a brush in a thick layer.

After processing the bottom with it, leave the car for a few hours. Only when everything is thoroughly dry, you can place the previously removed parts in their places, on average, this happens three hours after the last coating.

This procedure allows you to protect the bottom until next spring, when it is recommended to carry out similar work again. All components of the spare parts that were previously removed must be treated with Movil-NN anticorrosive material.

The main rules for applying anikor on your own:

Prepare the surface of the car for applying anticorrosive;
The composition must contain professional substances and the above components;
Try to comply with the processing conditions with those provided in car services.

Stages of anti-corrosion treatment of cars

Before proceeding with the direct work, you should decide on the necessary tools and the surface itself.

The main items that may be needed are a drill, brushes, cotton wipes, spray equipment.

The main stages of applying anchor in hard-to-reach areas:

1. Clean the car from dirt. The best result will be achieved by multi-stage cleaning with warm water.

Knock off any adhering dirt with a jet of water. Then use detergents, at the end of cleaning it is worth rinsing the machine.

Until the body is dry, you should not start following actions... Indeed, on a wet surface, no material will stick.

2. The wipers are removed, the trunk is released, the interior, which is then covered with a film for protection. Cover the pedal before work, because if anticorrosive gets on it or the track, then slipping with shoes cannot be avoided.

The inner part of the auto - cavities are covered using a flexible nozzle, which is inserted into the hole until it stops. When spraying anticorrosive continuously, put the nozzle back. There is no definite speed for this procedure.

3. Quality application can be considered when droplets began to stand out through the technological holes. If you could not immediately achieve such a result, then you should do it all over again.

The cause may be a blockage of the cavity with various fasteners, rust or dirt. In this case, you must use a metal attachment.

4. Drilling of the body can also be considered as preparatory work, if it is necessary to get to the internal cavities, which are hidden from external eyes.

Carefully inspect the body to find all the technological holes and so that you do not have to make them yourself by drilling. Find everything you have, whether made by yourself or in the factory.

To make a hole yourself, use a metal drill with a diameter of 13.5 mm. Carry out such work only where there is one profile layer.

If you do this in the area of \u200b\u200bdouble profiles, then you will significantly reduce the reliability of the body. Areas that are already corroded should not be touched.

Stage-by-stage anti-corrosion treatment of the body and its components:

1. A more popular service is the treatment of the bottom and arches. The bottom preparation is carried out on a lift, a viewing pit.

Treat hidden surfaces, go over all joints, remove the wheel arch liners. Anti-corrosive should be applied in an even layer on the existing coating. When treating the hood and engine compartment, be careful not to get the product on the generator or radiator.

Slippery material will impair engine cooling. There are welded seams under the hood, which must be thoroughly treated with an anti-corrosion coating.

Apply around optics, suspension boosters, clutch cylinder. Treat the entire bonnet cover.

2. When processing the luggage compartment, special attention should be paid to the hidden seams of the body. Try to use a variety of attachments to make it easier to access hidden cavities.

Treat the floor luggage compartment a thin layer of solution. To prevent oxidation of the contacts, it is worth treating the back of the lamps.

3. Before applying the anticorrosive, decide which parts of the body will be processed. Prepare the surface in advance especially for this case.

As soon as you check the seat cover for protection, you can start working right away. box-shaped elements under pressure are processed not only inside, but also outside.

4. The next stage of work is the processing of the door opening. It provides for processing by connections and by hidden cavities of thresholds.

Try to avoid heavy dusting so that there are no traces on the components of the interior. When processing the door, be sure to pay special attention to the mechanisms. Anti-corrosion compounds have absolutely no effect on electrical contacts; damage can only be done mechanically.

For example, if you sharply insert the nozzle into the cavity. If there are too many additional elements on the doors, then you can always use the technical holes that are located at the bottom of the door.

5. Treat thresholds, side members and struts with Movil-type preservatives. The mastic is applied for 2-3 hours, after which it is worth using anti-gravel in cylinders.

Whatever the quality of the anticorrosive, it is not able to stop the process of metal destruction, but it may well slow down this process or delay it.

The effectiveness of the procedure performed directly depends on the quality of the selected materials, compliance with the spraying rules, driving speed, as well as the general condition of the car.

If you want to initially prevent the problem, then monitor the integrity of the surface, because the appearance of the slightest flaw leads to the rapid development of corrosion.

On average, a protective coating can last from 1-3 years, it all depends on the level of wear of the product. Bad weather conditions are the main reasons for the destruction of anti-corrosion coating.

A heated car body negatively affects the wax that flows down; when cooled, it hardens and adheres better to the body. If you have a bituminous composition, then in the hot season it will behave with dignity, but this cannot be said in frost conditions, under the influence of which it will simply begin to crack.

The reason for the instant wear of the anti-corrosion coating can be considered an initially incorrect application procedure.

Therefore, if you decide to apply the coating yourself, you should take this issue seriously and take responsibility.

Not only the external condition of the car, but also its service life depends on the result of the work.

Consider some tips that may come in handy during processing:

Cover the underside of the car and easily accessible areas with a roller, brush when you apply the product yourself;
At temperatures within +15 C, apply at least three layers with preliminary drying of intermediate layers;
During work it is recommended to wear latex gloves when working outdoors or indoors;
The application of bitumen-rubber mastic to pure metal is impossible. This material is not very practical, without preliminary priming of the surface, nothing will work, because the material will simply flake off and rusty iron will appear.
Do not cut back on preparatory work;
Exactly follow the above recommendations, which have already been tested by many car owners, and you will significantly extend the service life.

That's all, protect your cars with anticorrosive and extend the life of the body.

Corrosion is the very problem of all cars that begins to haunt them from the moment the cars are released from the conveyors. As a result of the action of rust, the metal part of the body loses its strength, thus, it gradually collapses. This is an irreversible process, since the car is in constant contact with moisture, which means it is always subject to its action. However, corrosion can be slowed down or even stopped for a short time. To do this, produce an anticorrosive car or. Today you will learn how to choose an anticorrosive product, prepare the surface and treat the car body.

Car anti-corrosion treatment - what you need to know?

First of all, you need to learn that treating the body with anticorrosive treatment on its own will significantly reduce the effectiveness of this process. The thing is that you, most likely, simply do not have the necessary equipment, which is available in all workshops of the corresponding profile. However, there are a few rules to help you follow through this procedure correctly:

In no case should you neglect such a procedure as saving time for preparatory work.
If possible, it is still better to purchase the appropriate equipment, which is available at auto repair shops.
Anticorrosive treatment of a car does not tolerate the use of various " folk remedies". This is absolutely not the case, therefore, when processing a car, follow the execution technology very precisely.

Anticorrosive treatment is of two types: full or partial.

Full processing means anticorrosive application on all parts of the bodyvulnerable to rust. These can be wheel arches, various openings and other elements that are not ventilated by open air flows.
Partial processing is performed only for individual body elements that are more likely to corrode. It could be car bottom treatment, side members and the like.

How to choose the "right" anticorrosive?

Now is the time to choose the right anticorrosive. Among the many brands, they can be divided into two main groups - these are bituminous and wax-based... Wax-based products slow down the corrosion process and thus extend the life of the metal parts. Bituminous agents are a protective coating in the form of zinc, which reduces the likelihood of corrosion. In addition, there are substances based on paraffin and rubber that protect the metal from the first cause of rust - moisture.

According to the method of application, anticorrosive products can be subdivided into agents sprayed onto the surface, those that are applied with a brush or with which pouring is carried out. It should be noted right away that the products sold in cylinders are ideal as a temporary measure of protection against corrosion, since their composition is ineffective and is not intended for processing large areas of the body. But the products that are applied with a brush have quite a significant property that allows you to fully protect the car body.

The last way to split funds is the processing area. The fact is that different surfaces of the body have corresponding effects, which are explained by ventilation disturbances, as well as their secrecy from the effects of moisture. The most important thing to pay attention to is the quality of the products. Without fail, the composition of anticorrosive must be strictly certified.

As good anticorrosive you can bring such a remedy as FL019. It is a bituminous agent, which is a liquid rubber. Perfect for those who operate their car in a harsh winter. The price for it is about 200 rubles per 500 ml.

Preparing a car for processing

After you have chosen anticorrosive, you need to prepare the car body for processing. The choice of the necessary tool can also be considered as preparatory measures. To do this, you will need spray equipment, a drill, various brushes, and a newspaper to protect the bodywork from anti-corrosion agent.

First, you need to remove from the car all objects that impede access to the metal body parts. It can be various seals, plastic linings and cladding. In addition, it is imperative to disassemble the entire cabin, except for the torpedo, as well as various fenders protecting the side members, etc. The entire lining is also dismantled from the trunk. Remember to close the pedals with a newspaper. The fact is that a high-quality anticorrosive is quite slippery, and it will be very problematic to wash it off later.

Next, the car must be thoroughly washed. This is done to remove dirt and thoroughly clean the surface so that the anticorrosive lays down evenly and provides sufficient protection to the body. In the process of washing, it is highly recommended to use car detergents, which must be completely washed off and the body must be allowed to dry.

How to apply anticorrosive

When starting treatment, you must first treat the hidden surfaces. If access is too difficult, a drill can be used to create a small hole for the anticorrosive spray nozzles. Wherein, the diameter of the drill should not exceed 13 millimeters, otherwise the rigidity of the body can be seriously disturbed. Also, do not neglect the presence of different technological holes and maintain a certain speed for uniform processing. In this case, the main thing is not haste, but high-quality and complete application.

The next in line are the wheel arches of the car and its bottom. Start with the side members first, as damage to them is bad for the engine mount. As soon as you process them, you can safely start applying anticorrosive to the arches, and then the bottom of the car. Pay particular attention to welds when using spray.

Next in line is engine compartment car. In this case, you need to be extremely careful. Slippery liquid must not get onto the generator or radiator. The fact is that after drying or before it, the generator belt will slip and will not provide, and the radiator honeycomb may clog, which will disrupt engine cooling. Pay special attention to the side members and their cavities from the inside. Do not drill them under any circumstances! Do not forget to process the battery stand, and the fastening of various mechanisms, including the suspension.

We pass to the trunk. Apply the substance to the back of the lanterns to prevent oxidation. After that, pay attention to the trunk floor. Thoroughly cover the floor and spare wheel space with a thin layer. After that, process the walls and the lid itself.

The salon is processed last. Here you need to treat the floors, since all the moisture from the boots flows down on them in winter or during rains and the lower parts of the doors. If possible, it is recommended to spray the anticorrosive inside as much as possible.

This completes the anticorrosive treatment of the car. As you can see, it is not difficult at all, the most important thing is to comply with the technology.

If this article is devoted to self-anti-corrosion treatment of a car body, then it is worth first determining: what is corrosion? Corrosion in the general definition is the destruction of solids under the influence of chemical, physical and electrochemical reactions on the surface of an object when the latter interacts with the environment. Moreover, by "solid objects" is meant not only metal: wood, concrete or plastic, although others in physical and chemical terms, but under constant exposure to an aggressive environment, they are also confidently destroyed.

Now with regard to the most common automotive definition of corrosion: the body (both the visible, "beautiful" part, and the less beautiful bottom) while driving (parking is no exception) is actively exposed to destructive factors: temperature drops, water, hail, snow, sand, etc. stones from the road, branches from trees, road chemicals, pigeon ... It can be listed for a long time, but the result is one: everything that protects the car body from the beginning of the unpleasant phenomenon of "rust" is a layer of varnish, paint, primer and, luckily, galvanized metal in the very bottom. And if all layers of protection are broken, water gets on the bare metal, starting the corrosion process - in this case, oxidation and the formation of loose iron oxide Fe2O3. Unlike aluminum or copper, where the upper layer of oxidized metal protects the deep layers with itself, iron rust has a porous structure, which does not interfere with the further oxidation process.

Many people mistakenly think that this process is irreversible, and if the rust has got to your car, you cannot get rid of it. This opinion is not true: the already affected metal can be cleaned to clean and then "protected" again, but the bottom as a whole should still be subjected to anti-corrosion treatment.

So, what is metal corrosion and why it occurs - we figured it out. How to protect your car from corrosion? Are automakers protecting new cars? How often is anti-corrosion treatment recommended? Is it possible to do the bodywork with your own hands? These and other questions are answered below.

Which cars "rot" more often - new or old?

Despite the seeming stupidity of the question, everything is not so simple here. Not all new cars are as good as old ones, but not all old models survived to this day in good condition... There are several reasons for both options:

not all automakers pay due attention to this item
the complexity of the body structure or technological errors during assembly put certain parts of the car (both new and old) at risk of corrosion
the layer of anti-corrosion agent applied at the factory was insufficient
the body and individual structural elements of a particular model, even from well-known manufacturers, can be thin and insufficiently processed
finally, the main point is the operating conditions of a particular vehicle: in the desert there is little humidity, but a lot of sand, in megacities (especially in winter) they actively use road chemistry, + humidity, possible accidents, etc., etc.

What are the anti-corrosion agents?

By design, all tools are divided into two main points: for external and for hidden surfaces

Anti-corrosion agents for external surfaces:
- Bituminous mastic is made on the basis of synthetic and bituminous resins. Such mastic simultaneously performs two main functions: preservation of pure metal and protection from mechanical stress. Standard layer of bitumen mastic on a car - 250-400 microns
- PVC is a complex of PVC materials applied to the rubber layer. Most often used factory-made and considered the most practical and durable coating
- Liquid plastic is the cheapest, but also the least "successful" choice. The low degree of mechanical resistance makes these materials a choice for subsequent sale when uninformed buyers confidently and proudly declare that they have just made an anti-corrosion coating.
Anti-corrosion materials for hidden surfaces:
- oil-based products are convenient because they are always in a liquid state, filling all microcracks of the treated surface
- paraffin-based products are made using wax. They are convenient because, after drying, they form a waxy elastic film that remains elastic even with sudden changes in temperature.

We got acquainted with the material and the front of the work, the question is: is it possible to do anti-corrosion treatment of the body with our own hands? This is quite real and quite safe: the products on sale do not have harmful vapors or odors, and are not toxic. However, banal precautions will not interfere, in your eyes there is nothing for the means either.

Self-application of anti-corrosion coating on the body

Before starting work, it is worth following a number of simple recommendations:

Empty trunk
Remove all items that interfere with easy access to the outer part of the body (trunk mat, sound insulation, engine compartment insulation, etc.)
Remove any protruding rust and paint bubble (at least remove it with a screwdriver)
Wash the car (including hard-to-reach places). There are a few more recommendations on this point:
1. water temperature - about 70 *
2. wash in three steps:
  1. just pour water over the car, don't rub yet
  2. apply detergents
  3. wash off everything with plenty of water
3. After washing, it is recommended to thoroughly wipe the car, additionally blowing and rinsing the thresholds
4. Just in case, remove the windscreen wipers from the car: some anticorrosive. funds can corrode low-quality rubber
5. It is recommended to cover the seats so as not to accidentally stain them.
6. Also cover the pedals and the floor underneath with a rag or newspaper to prevent spillage. The reason is that everything is quite slippery, and why do we need to slip the sole along the pedals?

If the whole procedure is done correctly and with the proper quality of materials, then the protective layer will be enough for 1-3 years of calm and confident driving.

Next, we proceed directly to the processing, during which some tool may be needed: the anti-corrosion agent itself (logical), a drill and drill for metal, a brush, some kind of spray gun, a simple locksmith tool, as well as auxiliary materials in the form of rags, protection for seats and pedals, hole plugs. The need for this or that tool will be described below, but if you look in general, then most often only the bottom, wheel arches and places with a high concentration of moisture (thresholds, door racks, welded) are subjected to anti-corrosion treatment of a car (both professional and self-made). seams, bending joints). Accordingly, we will go through four points for self-anti-corrosion treatment of a car:

Was the machine washed, dried and wiped clean? Take a close look at the body for surface defects. Scratches, cracks and paint chips must be treated in advance, otherwise the meaning of the work as a whole is reduced to zero. Small scratches we grind, we carefully process large ones. Straightening of the bent metal will be optimal, and scratches and chips are cleaned, primed clean, puttyed, polished and painted.

Are you finished? Read the instructions, and only then we begin to apply the anti-corrosion compound: it is important to observe the temperature conditions, the weight is also indicated there useful recommendations on the processing of a particular site. Where access to the surface is easy - we spray it, in hard-to-reach placesah, the best choice would be to enter the funds through the factory mounting holes, and if there are none (or you don't want to remove the part), a drill and drill will come in handy. Of course, this is far from a reason to drill a lot of holes (which in the future are not averse to "rotting" themselves) in the car: it is better to use the standard holes to the maximum, and use the stocked plugs for new ones.

DIY anti-corrosion treatment of the car bottom

For the convenience of handling, the car will need to be put on the pit and the wheels removed. Stock up on extra lighting and carefully inspect the "front of work": welds, bolts, fasteners and suspension elements. ball joints, hidden sections of rapids and more. If everything suits you (or after everything suits you), apply an anti-corrosion compound. For this, either a brush or an airless spray gun (included in the anticorrosive composition) is most often used. For hard-to-reach places, a special flexible nozzle is used. As mentioned above, it is better to process the bottom of the car twice - the operating conditions of the bottom are many times more serious than those of the top of the car.

Anti-corrosion treatment of hidden areas of the machine

By hidden areas we mean the upper engine compartment, where all welds, joints of panels and parts, fasteners (brackets and amplifiers) can be called vulnerable spots, look under the battery, around the headlights and into the engine shield. Be careful under the hood: do not let the composition get on drive belts, radiator or generator - in best case a slippery fan drive belt will lead to a deterioration in engine cooling, the worst case with timing belt slipping will not be discussed here ...

We carefully process the trunk of the car along the seam between the sidewall of the rear wing and the wheel arch, also do not forget to process the cross member of the frame rear window on the inside, it will not hurt to apply the composition to the back side of the lanterns - the contacts will oxidize less.

DIY anti-corrosion treatment of the car interior

You won't spend a lot of time on the salon: you need to inspect and process the fastenings of the crossbars and seat brackets, the seams at the bottom of the doorway and the doorways themselves along the lines of the rubber seals. In the salon, be also careful not to splash the composition of the interior details.

When handling car doors, you need to be careful with wiring, mechanisms and an audio system inside the doors - despite the fact that the contacts and speakers should not be damaged by the composition, however, the presence of "anti-corrosion" on them is not provided for. As with hidden and hard-to-reach elements, try to get by with standard holes for processing the interior space, and if they are not there, use a drill. For external processing, the composition must be sprayed onto the weld along the lower edge of the window opening, and for internal processing, pay attention to the internal seams and the lock.

In general, the process of anti-corrosion treatment of the car is over. A new layer should be applied as the old one wears out (it's harder to say in terms of timing, it all depends on the operating conditions, the car itself and the applied composition - maybe a year, two, or three). The effectiveness of the treatment ultimately depends on a host of factors: the quality of the composition, adherence to the application instructions, the general condition of the surface to be treated and the conditions of subsequent operation. In the end, if the body is rotten through and through, no "anticorrosive" will help you. A special emphasis for moderately lazy and overly diligent car owners: a thin layer of "anticorrosive" will quickly disappear from simple road stones, and too thick - it can crack and fall off by itself. The optimal layer of the composition is 1.5-2 mm, while the consumption will be about 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bfor an average passenger car.

Another important nuance: new body parts (in case of replacing old ones) do not have anti-corrosion factory treatment - take time to process them before installation.

Remember: it is not yet possible to stop corrosion forever, but you can easily delay it even with your own hands.

The video below clearly shows how anti-corrosion treatment is performed at a proprietary service station.

Anti-corrosion treatment of the car bottom at the service station

Systematic washing and polishing of the car body is known to promote reliable protection its outer surface from corrosion. An exception to the rule is the bottom and internal cavities. The bottom, although it was treated at the car plant with the most resistant to mechanical and chemical agents, does not withstand more than 2-3 years of merging of aggressive salt-sand mixtures, "bombardment" of road rubble, temperature changes, gradually collapsing and opening up new areas of corrosion.

The situation is similar with the wings, especially those areas in the lower part, where there are pockets in which dirt and moisture collect and accumulate. Therefore, even on a new, just bought car, it is necessary to revise such areas and eliminate the imperfections of the factory masters for anti-corrosion treatment (you can be sure that there are such imperfections).

The cavities in body elements such as sills, B-pillars and side members are also affected. Their position is greatly aggravated by the blockage of the drainage holes intended for the flow of water entering these elements.

Of course, it is not difficult to carry out additional anti-corrosion treatment of a new car. It is much more difficult to do this operation on a machine that has been in operation for a long time without intermediate treatments. Under such conditions, the main effort, as well as the time, will be spent on preparation. For the successful implementation of the work, for the anti-corrosion treatment of a car with your own hands, the materials must be in sufficient quantity so that the process is not interrupted.

Necessary materials

In order to personally perform anti-corrosion treatment of a car, materials are needed:

Metal brush;
Scrapers for removing used coating (wood and metal);
Sandpaper;
Anticorrosive application tool (brush or brush);
Degreaser;
Rust remover;
Anticorrosive agent (mastic, etc.);
Rags;

Preparatory work

Anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom, as well as inner sides wings begins with the removal of used damaged coating, foci of rust and corrosion, dirt and grease. Proper adhesion of the anti-corrosion mastic to the body elements is possible only on a well-cleaned and degreased surface.

Old flaked treatment can be removed with a metal brush and scraper. They also remove loose layers of rust. After this roughing, the body elements should be sanded and degreased with white spirit.

Further, the cleaned and degreased surface is processed ...

a rust converter that turns the top layer of the metal into a chemically inactive compound. It is advisable to use a high-speed converter.

Now you can carry out the treatment with anti-corrosion mastic or paste, the possibility of using one or another tool - a brush or just a glove worn on a hand - depends on its viscosity. Processing should be carried out so that the anticorrosive layer has approximately the same thickness, without large sagging and omissions of processing areas.

For anti-corrosion treatment with your own hands, bitumen-based mastics are best suited. They perform well in resisting water and salt, but they are not very resistant to sand and road rubble.

In severe frosts, bitumen mastic becomes brittle and can crack or even fall off from impacts.

Most susceptible to corrosion ...

hidden cavities, which are practically impossible to clean well, they are treated with a liquid anti-corrosion agent such as "Movil" or "Resistin". The use of these materials is permitted even on surfaces damaged by corrosion or pre-oiled.

Device for applying liquid anticorrosive

The problem faced by motorists who decide to independently process hidden cavities is the lack of necessary equipment... It can be used with a relatively simple device operating on the principle of air atomization of drugs under a pressure of 4-6 kg / cm2.

The simplest design of such a device is as follows: a nozzle for it can be made from a cologne atomizer by drilling a nozzle in its tip to a diameter of 1.2 mm. A brass tube must be soldered to the inner wall, through which the anti-corrosion agent will be fed.

The pump is connected with a hose to the atomizer tube going to the container with Movil. To supply the drug to the tube, you can use a PVC tube dipped into the vessel. For clarity, a diagram of such a device is shown below.

With the constant creation of air pressure by the pump, the torch emerging from the Movil nozzle is provided within 14-20 cm, which is enough to apply it inside the hidden cavities.

Processing features

Before applying "Movil" to the hidden surfaces of cavities, it is necessary to provide access of the sprayer to the required zones. For this:

remove the seals for the front wings, headlights and their rims (VAZ - 03, -02);
remove the spare tire, tool and floor covering (VAZ - 013), upholstery (VAZ - 03, -07 and -06) from the trunk;
throw open back door (VAZ - 02) remove the carpet, trim, spare tire and its cover;
remove signal lamps doors (VAZ - 03, -06) and a signal lamp for reversing (VAZ - 03).

Then you should perform a somewhat unpleasant, but technology-necessary operation - drilling holes (9 mm) in the thresholds, and for VAZ-013, -21 and -05 - also in the end surfaces of the rear doors.

Whenever possible, accessible treatment sites should be rinsed with water, blown with air and dried. IN garage conditionswhere effective drying cannot be carried out, it is enough to restrict yourself to wiping them with a damp cloth, followed by natural drying. Considering that the largest number of points requiring processing are located in the bottom area, it is advisable to perform all work on a lift or overpass.

To process the sills, the spare wheel and the front cross members, you need to pull out the plugs. Two plugs are installed on both sides under the front fenders, along the plug on both sides in the rear arches, in the center in the spare wheel well, and one on both sides in the cross member under the front seats, you also need to clean the drain holes.

Before the anti-corrosion treatment of thresholds, arches, bottom is carried out, they should first be washed with plain water, blown out with a compressor (this way they will dry out faster). It is advisable to dismantle the wheels so as not to complicate the process, and to put the car on reliable supports. Wheel disks, brakes, cover the transmission elements with something to prevent anticorrosive hits. After that, open all doors, covers and start applying.

Processing VAZ 2101-2106

All cavities and internal surfaces of the body (VAZ-01, -013, -02, -03, -06) are treated with anti-corrosion mastic in this sequence:

First, the cavities are processed:

1 . Doors

2. Between the wings and arches

3. Rear side members

4. Recesses under fuel tank and spare wheel

5. and 6. Cross members (back, front)

7.and 12.Front cross members

8. Hood pockets

10. Mudguard racks

11. Shield of connection with the sidewalls of the front fenders

13. Headlight niches

14. Brackets for front suspension buffers

15. Connection box

16. Front fender pockets

17. Thresholds

18. Brackets for the jack

19. Crossbars between the rear wheel arches

20. Rear side members

21. Front side members

22. Crossmembers of the front suspension

More clearly the places of processing are shown in the figure.

Places of application anti-corrosion material on the surface of parts and hidden sections of the car body a, b - VAZ 2101, 21013, 2103, 2106; g - VAZ 2102

Processing 2121 "Niva"

On a VAZ - 21 "Niva" car, the procedure for preparing and applying anti-corrosion material is somewhat different. First, dismantle from the car: the radiator grille, headlights with rims, upholstery and rear fender flaps, plugs for all tail cross members.

The inner surfaces are washed with running water until water without impurities comes out of them. After that, compulsory drying with air blowing is performed. Anticorrosive material is applied to the Niva's body elements in the following order:

Headlight niches
Front fender pockets
Door cavities
Rear wheel arches
Upper cross member, rear body panel
Bracket for jack
Hood pockets
The joints of the panel with the sidewalls of the front fenders
Upper front cross member
Lower front cross member
Front side members
Thresholds
Longitudinal side members of the body floor and their amplifiers
Rear side members
Lower rear cross member

Places of application of anti-corrosion material on the surface of parts and in hidden sections of the body of the VAZ 2121 Niva

Machining models 2105, 2107

Before applying anti-corrosion material to VAZ-05 and -07, you need:

dismantle all parts that interfere with access to the processed cavities, that is, the shields under the front fenders, the spare tire, the trunk cover, the sidewall linings;
close the oval holes of the thresholds with something at the base of the racks so that water does not penetrate into the interior during washing;
rinse with water all places where the anticorrosive agent is applied. But before that: pull out the plugs in the rear wheel arches, in the beam of these arches, in the cross member under the front seats, in the spare wheel niche, clean the drainage holes. After rinsing, blow everything with air and dry.

Cavities are treated with anticorrosive first of all:

Between the rear fender and the wheel arch
Rear side members
Rear floor cross members
Depth for fuel tank
The lower cross member of the tail
Spare wheel well
Mudguard struts
In the junction of the front end with the wing side
Into the hood pockets
In the connection of the front panel with the wing side
Upper cross member
Lower cross member
In the front suspension bumper bracket
In the front fender pockets
Doors
Thresholds
In the jack bracket
Crossbars between rear wheel arches
Rear side members
Front side members and their amplifiers

For more accessible, shown in the figure

Places of application of anti-corrosion material on the surface of parts and hidden sections of the body of VAZ-2105 and 2107 cars

After the anti-corrosion treatment of the car with your own hands is completed, you need to remove traces of mastic using a swab soaked in white spirit or kerosene, then reinstall the previously removed parts, including plugs, plugs, covers, etc.

This article lists only the key points in the anti-corrosion treatment of VAZ bodies. In the process, each of the models may have its own specific nuances. But in general, any motorist can do such a body treatment.

Corrosion does not look either at the brand or at and sooner or later manifests itself in the form of rust, swelling paintwork or completely rotten body parts. Despite modern technologies, designed to protect the metal, no one has yet been able to stop it. Water, dirt, temperature drops, mechanical damage, road chemicals slowly do their job.

The bottom part is the first to suffer from such factors. But is it possible to somehow prevent corrosion? We will talk about this, and also consider what a car is and how to implement it on our own.

Can corrosion be avoided

It is important to understand that any automotive metal will rust. In some it appears earlier, in others later, therefore, corrosion cannot be avoided. But it can be suspended by maximally protecting the metal surfaces from environmental influences.

There are three types of body corrosion:

chemical - an oxidative process caused by interaction with water and oxygen in the air;
mechanochemical - corrosion caused by mechanical damage and by the same oxidative processes;
electrochemical - caused by exposure to water and aggressive components dissolved in it, used to combat road icing.

When these three species act on the metal at the same time, the corrosion process is much faster.

What is anti-corrosion treatment

Anti-corrosion treatment is a procedure during which body parts potentially exposed to the harmful effects of the environment are cleaned of dirt, rust and covered with a layer of a special protective agent. This solution can significantly slow down corrosion due to metal insulation. Of course, such a coating cannot last forever, so it must be renewed every 3-5 years.

In many decent car dealerships, treating the underbody, arches and interior door surfaces is mandatory pre-sale preparation. If such a procedure is not provided, the machine will need to be processed by yourself. To do this, you can contact specialized services, where the underside of the car is processed. Prices for such services depend on the type of materials used in the work.

You can also roll up your sleeves and do it yourself. It's up to you to choose. We will consider the last option, but first, let's figure out what this process is and what tools and materials will be needed for it.

Anti-corrosion treatment steps

The anti-corrosion treatment process includes three main stages:

Body preparation.
Application of a protective layer inside cavities.
Car underbody and arches treatment.

At the first stage, the surfaces are cleaned of dirt and rust, after which they are washed with hot water supplied under pressure. In this case, all body elements, without exception, are washed. Next, the machine is allowed to dry completely. Often, a jet of hot air is used to speed up this procedure. After that, the car is lifted on a lift and inspected. All centers of corrosion on the bottom are removed with a wire brush and degreased. Next, the surfaces are covered with anti-corrosion primer.

The second stage can be started when the car is completely dry. The treatment of hollow cavities involves the blowing of a special anti-corrosive substance inside the spars, thresholds, pillars, boxes and doors. Rust is insidious enough, it can begin to appear from the inside. The solution is blown out under pressure using a special pistol.

Car bottom processing is the most crucial stage. The lower part of the body is most susceptible to various types of damage. These are water, mud, reagents, and gravel. The protective coating on the bottom is applied in two stages, and the reapplication is carried out after the first layer has completely dried.

How the bottom is processed

The treatment of the underbody and arches of the car can be done with a variety of materials on different bases. Let's take a look at the most popular ones.

Rubber-bitumen mastic is a universal product for treating the underside of a car and wheel arches. Adheres perfectly to metal, is resistant to gravel and low temperatures... Does not deform or flake off.
Slate mastic is a solution for protecting the bottom and outer surfaces of arches. The mastic is based on bitumen, which forms a strong and elastic film on the treated surface.
"Movil" is a popular and widespread mastic for car underbody treatment. Has excellent adhesion and moisture-displacing properties. Ideal for handling

Protective agent "Antishum"

The material called "Anti-noise Prime" is very popular among car owners, which allows not only to protect the car bottom from corrosion, but also to significantly limit the noise entering the cabin. It is made on the basis of refined white spirit, bitumen, synthetic resins, rubber crumb, anti-corrosion inhibitors with the addition of aluminum and zinc powder.

With this tool, the underside of the vehicle can be processed. Antishum Prime received the most positive reviews, especially in terms of stability and high soundproofing characteristics. The treatment with this agent is also carried out in several layers, as a result of which an elastic and ultra-reliable coating is formed, which has the properties of a sound insulator.

Advantages of "Antishum Prime":

long service life (3-5 years);
high indicators of wear resistance;
provides high anti-gravel protection;
significantly reduces the noise level;
provides good thermal insulation.

Materials for processing arches

Slightly different materials are used for arches.

Bituminous rubber mastic is a protective mass for arches and internal surfaces.
Antigravel is a means for protecting areas most susceptible to small stones flying out from under the wheels: arches, thresholds, etc. It is produced on a bitumen or rubber base. The anti-gravel coating can even be painted the desired color.

Underbody treatment: prices

The cost of work on the preparation of a car and its anti-corrosion treatment directly depends on the materials used and the category (size) of your car. On average, the price for the entire complex, including washing, drying, mechanical training and the application of a protective coating, incl. and in hidden cavities, ranges from 4 to 9 thousand rubles.

You can also perform element-by-element processing by selecting only the bottom, arches, sills or other parts of the body.

If you do not have the ability or desire to pay money for the work, you can easily make the "anti-corrosion" yourself.

Means and tools for hand-made bottom processing

Do-it-yourself car bottom treatment can also be done. This process involves the use of such means:

about 5 kg of mastic;
4 cans of protective agent (of your choice) for cavities and hard-to-reach places;
2 paint brushes (wide and narrow) or a special anti-corrosion gun with a compressor;
drill or grinder with nozzles for cleaning rust;
solvent;
protective gloves.

Getting started processing

Processing requires the use of a lift, flyover or car pit, because most of the work is done from below.

We start with a thorough washing of the underbody and arches. When the car is dry, proceed to the preparation, cleaning the visible rust spots with the help of a special grinder or grinder.

Next, degrease the surface to be prepared with a solvent and let it dry. After that, with a gun or brushes, carefully apply protective coveringwithout missing a millimeter. We blow out all the hidden cavities of the bottom with a spray can. We are waiting for the applied layer to dry (5-10 hours). Complete drying of the mastic will occur only after 2-3 days. Only after this period the vehicle can be used again.

For work, use only proven products purchased at specialized retail outlets.
Bottom treatment should only be carried out in a well-ventilated area.
The temperature in the working room should not be lower than 10 o C.
In no case should the mastic be applied in a thick layer - over time, under the influence of its weight, it will lag behind the metal.
Avoid contact with skin or eyes.