Tips and tricks, as well as useful information on how to fix something at home yourself, mandatory rules and safety precautions. How to Fix a Broken Screen on Your Phone Why So Much

If you drive a car, it means that you have come across this problem in one way or another, or can potentially face this problem. It concerns the topic of locks, or rather the electric data drive. Time and frequent use of the unit sooner or later lead to its inevitable wear and tear. Well at least it will still be possible to get into the car by unlocking the door with the usual "physical" key. But this is not our method!

This breakdown, of course, is not the end of the world, but it takes you one step away from the comfortable car of your dreams, if you are used to the convenience of using electric locks. The moment the door stops locking and unlocking at the touch of a button, this often means that the remote control of the door lock has finally decided to retire. What to do? Repair! How? Let's tell you now.

If we take the basis of the design, it will turn out to be extremely simple: the lock drive consists of a small electric motor, which drives the gearbox of the lock drive mechanism. That's all the wisdom.

Sounds really simple enough, right? And it seems that the most reasonable way to treat a sudden illness may be to buy a part instead of a failed one, but most likely you won't even have to do that. Broken drive remote control locks can be repaired free of charge on any car, you just need to spend some time.

Now we will take a look at the insides of the car door lock actuator, see what is broken there, and then fix this breakdown, because it will almost always be the same.

Getting to the source of problems

The first thing we need to do is get to the locking mechanism actuator (a procedure that will vary from vehicle to vehicle). In some cars it is easy to get to the part you want, while in others it is a real challenge. 2011 model year can be classified as a difficult car in terms of work. So much the better: the example will be clearer.

Note: the disassembly process in the vast majority of cases is a very delicate operation that must be performed flawlessly. Depends on her success appearance car interior.

There are two basic steps that will be similar for any vehicle regardless of class and year of manufacture. The first is to disconnect the battery before starting work. Especially relevant for modern cars with side airbags. Do not forget to disconnect the battery before proceeding. It is important!

The second step is to remove the inner door panel. Each car has original "door cards" installed. They are also fastened in different ways. Therefore, in order to find out and understand the principle of fastening, which is specific to your car, you will need to look at the manual for disassembling and assembling the car. The latter can be bought or completely free to find on the Internet using Yandex or Google search.

Inexpensive interior decorating tools like the ones in the photo above are handy for doing the job of detaching the interior of the upholstery, but essentially not required. The plastic clips holding the inner panel to the door are usually located along the outer perimeter of the door panel; they are easy to drown one by one using a flat wide blade screwdriver. The main thing is to know where these plastic clips are located (the instruction diagram will help you) and act carefully!

On the way to the final removal of the door, you will have three or four hidden screws. They are usually located behind a doorknob, a pocket for small items and a triangle of the outside mirror. If the door panel cannot be removed, it is most likely because somewhere there is still an invisible screw that has not been unscrewed. Do not use force! Find it.

The door panel is almost removed

As soon as outer panel the interior will be removed from the door, as a rule, you will need to remove the second part of the upholstery. It is a technical layer that absorbs sounds and protects you from the ubiquitous dust in the vehicle interior.

On some cars it is just a plastic sheeting glued on, while on others it is a hard plastic panel. The second version was installed on the Sonata.

Remember when I said that it is more difficult to dismantle and repair this car in general? This is because all the internals that are laid in the doors are built into this secondary panel. The columns, the window stop, the window motor, the door lock actuator and all the electrics located there are bolted to the panel.

Mechanisms and wires attached to the secondary panel

Remove or loosen all parts on the cover before continuing to remove the protective inner panel. The lock actuator on this vehicle is integrated into the door latch. It was first unscrewed before dismantling. Then the outer door handle was removed from its place.

Then the fit was loosened side glass doors, because the window travel stop is attached to the inner panel. You can take it out of the door itself or leave it there, having previously secured it so that it does not fall out.

The central gray tube is a reinforcing safety element that protects against side impact.

Finally, we remove the panel to access the door lock drive, it is attached to the back of the protective panel. Please note that the car door lock and the lock closing drive are combined in a single unit. We remove the unit from the bulky structure.

When the door lock actuator is finally removed from the secondary panel, we are approaching the most important stage of the repair - the direct solution of a penny problem.

We disassemble the electric lock

So, we still need to get inside the lock drive. At this point, it becomes more and more obvious that the manufacturer of the lock actuator did not want you to repair it. The body is made like some kind of bank vault. It is worth turning the case in your hands, and you will understand that it consists of two or three parts, which are held together by means of small latches.

We take a couple of small flat-head screwdrivers and begin to squeeze these clips, slowly but surely moving towards dividing the device into two halves. It is possible that you will break several clips. There is nothing wrong with this, although it is better to try to act with extreme caution. If you break all or most of the clips, the halves of the assembly will have to be glue, and this will make it difficult to access its electronic insides in the future (if necessary.)

So before you inner worldhidden from prying eyes. Reducing the scale of our activities, moving forward. Be sure to photograph all stages of disassembly. This will make the assembly process easier.

Now let's talk about the main thing

The actuator shown in the example has a three-piece housing. The culprit behind the lock drive failure is usually the electric motor, which is a shiny silver rectangular piece with a worm gear at the end. We just take it out (it is not secured by anything) to continue a more thorough inspection.

To make sure that the motor really turned out to be the root of all evil, you can do a mini-test by connecting a 9-volt battery to the terminals on the electric motor. If everything is in order, the motor will revive, if not, it will continue to lie motionless in its place. In our case, the engine did not rotate. Didn't even make a sound. The patient has been found!

There are two ways to go at this stage. Buy a similar electric motor in a spare parts / electronic goods store / worker, from disassembly. Or fix this one. Since we promised to show you a free repair option - and repairs here really won't cost anything - we will continue to prepare the motor.

An impromptu test proved that the problem with the lock actuator was definitely in the engine. Let's not go into the physics of how these little motors work. direct current... You just need to be aware that a part inside the electric motor called the collector has become dirty, rendering the motor inoperative. To fix it, you need to clean the manifold.

You will need

- small Phillips screwdriver;
- hex screwdriver;
- stationery eraser;
- scotch tape.

Instructions

Clear workplace from unnecessary items. Use a small box to store the bolts so they don't get lost. Separate the sides from the phone. Using a hex screwdriver, remove the two bolts at the bottom of the rear cover and the two bolts under the sidewalls. Also remember to remove the two screws in the battery compartment. Where the sidewalls were removed, you will see the latches. Use a screwdriver to pry off the top cover. Turn off the shield connector and phillips screwdriver unscrew the two screws located at the top. Locate the headphone jack in the upper right corner of the board. There is a microphone under it. Release the connector from the phone case and separate the board from the screen.

Use an eraser to clean the cable contacts - they should shine. Next, turn the shield over and connect it to the board. Then you need to turn on this design. Secure the battery with tape on the board. In order for such a design to work, it is necessary to remove the lock, which is located between the battery and the CF-connector. Press the Power button on the board.

The breakdown usually consists of the contact from the ribbon cable to the touch screen that does not pass. To make sure of this, put an eraser on the area where the shield and the cable join. Press lightly on it and move the stylus across the screen. If everything works, it can be easily repaired. Cut a straight and very thin strip of eraser, about 1 mm. Then glue this strip with glue, which does not immediately freeze, to the place of contact of the cable with the screen. If during assembly it turns out that the screen is not restored, simply move the eraser to appropriate place.

Collect all parts in reverse order... Don't forget about the microphone and the pieces of tape left behind to secure the battery. Sometimes it happens that disassembly leads to a hard reset, for example, due to a dead auxiliary battery. In this case, make Russification and start the recovery process.

Damage characteristic

To assess the degree of damage, you should first check the gadget for performance. If the device reacts to movements, shows data, reproduces sound and does not glitch, then we are talking only about glass damage. Otherwise, more serious problems should be stated, the main of which is screen breakage. The smartphone display consists of glass and a matrix to which the board is connected. The failure of the matrix does not allow the use of technology - all that can be seen is a black screen.

Broken glass allows you to use the phone for the time being, since the growth of cracks over time will not make it possible to use the gadget normally, as it will be inconvenient. And the appearance of such a smartphone will be very pathetic. More serious problems arise when the loop breaks or other components are damaged. In this case, additional repairs are added to the replacement of the phone screen.

Can the screen be repaired

If we talk about repairing the display, in this case we can only talk about glass repair, and even then only for the period that is necessary to make a decision about its replacement. In order to use a phone with a broken sensor, it is necessary to properly glue the touchscreen, so that the cracks do not grow, and the fragments do not fall out and cannot injure the user.

For this, adhesive tape or scotch tape is used, with the help of which the glass is hermetically glued, thus creating its integrity. Ease of use mobile device in this case, it will completely depend on how much area the damage takes. If the defect is located in one of the corners and is small, the interference during navigation will be minimal, in all other cases, the operation of the equipment will be pretty annoying.

To replace the glass (and this will be the most correct solution), it is necessary to carefully remove the old sensor and install a new one, which must still be purchased correctly. It is best to contact a service center that repairs phones, where specialists will do everything themselves, and you will receive an absolutely serviceable device.

If the device does not respond to user actions, you need to change the screen. The matrix of a smartphone has a very complex device, so there is no point in repairing it in case of mechanical damage - it is better to buy a new one.

In order to qualitatively replace the phone screen, you need to call a wizard, for which it is best to contact a reliable service center. The most qualified specialists who have passed a strict selection work in such organizations, therefore the company always provides a guarantee for repairs.

It is not recommended to replace the display on a smartphone on your own, because without proper experience and knowledge, you can damage the device very easily. The fact is that we are talking about very small in size, but vital for the phone parts, many of which must be removed when replacing the screen. In addition, you will have to deal with disconnecting the loops, the fastening of which will also be a complete mystery to the inexperienced user.

Matrix replacement is performed special tools, which a priori do not have an ordinary person. Does it make sense to purchase professional tools for a one-time repair? The services of a master will be cheaper. In order to properly repair the phone display, the wizard almost completely disassembles it and checks for possible damage to other parts. Timely identification of problems will save your smartphone from accidental breakdowns in the future.

When ordering a repair at a service center, the user usually receives free recommendations on correct operation phone and proper care of it so that the device works smoothly for an extended period of time. One of the measures that will help protect the screen and phone case from shocks is to purchase protective cover... This element is inexpensive, but, as practice shows, it is very effective.

Also, a service center specialist will optimally configure the phone so that it uses the charge rationally. The wizard will show the user how to do this, so that in the future the owner of the smartphone can make such a setting on his own. A specialist will tell you under what conditions it is best to store your phone so that it does not overheat or be exposed to low temperatures. All tips and tricks should be taken into account, as they can significantly extend the life of the gadget.

Your question:

How can a heater be repaired?

Master answer:

If you are a zealous owner, then it does not matter at all what time of year it is in the yard. Your heater is out of order and can no longer keep you warm on cool winter evenings? It is better to take care of the restoration of the heating device in advance, so that later you do not have to repair it in a terrible haste with freezing hands. A malfunction of a heating device in a cold room can be quite an unpleasant surprise for those who relied on its heat so much ... That is why, once again make sure that the heating device will not let you down at the right time. If the heater is broken, you can easily fix it yourself.

You will definitely need: an electrical appliance, an ohmmeter, a wrench, fine-grained sandpaper, a soldering iron with tin, a round file and a connecting cord.

Before disassembling the heater, it is better to make sure once again that the power outlet to which the heater was connected is really working. And the fact that the device does not work is not her fault. To do this, you will need to plug into the outlet from a device that works flawlessly and that you are 100% sure that it is in good working order. If a device plugged into the outlet “refuses” to work, then the cause of the heater malfunction lies in it. Repair the outlet.

If the socket is working, carefully inspect the heater plug and its connecting cord. Make sure that there is no visible damage on its surface. Unscrew all nuts holding the control box and remove the washers. Gently slide the cover and remove it from the control unit.

Using an ohmmeter, carefully check the connecting cord of the heater. This is necessary in order to determine if the electrical contact is broken in it. To do this, connect the "probes" of the ohmmeter with the pins of the plug. Try to locate the defect.

You can check how tight the contact screws are on. Contact screws are screws that securely hold the strands of the cord. If you find that the strands of the patch cord are loose, loosen the screws that hold them in place and pull the strands out. Using fine-grained emery paper, carefully clean the surface of the contacting elements until they shine.

If you are firmly convinced that the heater has stopped working as a result of a faulty connecting cord, loosen the screws, remove the retaining bar and pull the cord out of the appliance.

With a wrench, you can easily check how carefully the contact posts are tightened. If necessary, tighten it up.

Use a round file to clean all the holes through which the strands of the connecting cord pass until they are shiny.

Strip the strands of the new connecting cord approximately 8 mm and carefully sand them with fine-grain sandpaper. Tips prepared in this way, twist and solder well. Carefully insert the ends of the conductors into the special holes for the stands, secure them securely with the contact screws. Replace the retaining bar. Put the cover on the control box and secure it well with the nuts.

When repairing any electrical equipment (including an electric heater) at home, be sure to follow at least basic safety rules.

Never plug the electric heater into an outlet until you have made sure that there is no short circuit in live parts that come into contact with the metal case of this electrical appliance. These indicators can be easily obtained using an ohmmeter.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair is often economically justified. On the one hand, for example, a new motor-fan (see below) for an inexpensive Samsung or LG can be bought for less than 1,500 rubles, and rewinding a burned-out one will cost more than 3,000; replacement of bearings from - 1200. That is, it is more profitable to replace the entire assembly unit with your own hands, without delving into the mysteries of technology. And unfit according to the scheme "How much do you want?" - "How much you give" will be willingly taken for spare parts by individual masters. On the other hand, many vacuum cleaner malfunctions, for the elimination of which in the service will count from 500, can be eliminated in just minutes at home.

The purpose of this article is to tell readers what and how they can be repaired in a vacuum cleaner on their own, how to determine the location and nature of the problem by external signs, how to get there, and what and how to do there to make the vacuum cleaner come to life. And what not to do to keep things from getting worse. Let's take the repair of a Samsung vacuum cleaner as a basis - they break more often than others from careless use. But if your brand is different, it doesn't matter - all vacuum cleaners are generally arranged in the same way and the methods for their repair are mostly the same.

Note: First of all, we do not touch on robotic vacuum cleaners - they "mentally" reset the warranty and block the control electronics, if the access code was not entered before opening. Also, we do not touch on powerful floor-standing vacuum cleaners with an external dust collector or vertical cyclone. Household models of both are still on sale, but the demand for them is steadily falling - they do not justify themselves in operation.

Why so much?

If we consider the nameplates of the old "Rockets", "Jupiters" and similar "from there", it will be found that the old ones consumed from the network at 350-450 W, and modern vacuum cleaners take 1200-2000 W. The intrigues of the damned bourgeois after the collapse of the USSR? No, everything is fair, the point is quite different.

More than 30 years ago, doctors noticed that hotel maids, theater cleaners, and other people who used vacuum cleaners were getting silicosis almost as often as miners. It turned out that ordinary dust in the dust collector is crushed, emitting very harmful particles with a size of 1-10 microns (microns). Micro-dust passes through the fabric of the dust collector without hindrance and rises into the air, and when the bag is shaken out, its concentration jumps over all conceivable limits, and so it lasts for hours.

Vacuum cleaners began to be made with 2-3 stage air purification, but additional motor power was needed to blow the microfilters. And customers all wanted the vacuum cleaners to be quieter, lighter and smaller. Ie, more powerful motor it had to be made more compact and equipped with a less efficient low-noise fan. The motor of the vacuum cleaner could no longer work without forced cooling, and its power had to be further increased to blow itself over. This is how the current limits of power consumption of household vacuum cleaners developed.

Role of filters and hose

Dusty air is no less harmful to a powerful small-sized electric motor than micro-dust to human lungs. As a result, without exception, all modern vacuum cleaners are built according to the scheme with full-flow cooling of the motor with purified air. If an old vacuum cleaner with a clogged bag simply pulled badly, then a modern one with clogged filters, a few minutes after starting, will switch to reduced power, or it will be turned off by an emergency thermostat, or it will burn out if there is no protective automatics (the cheapest) or it is muted (there are such craftsmen) ... Therefore, n before disassembling the vacuum cleaner as described below, check all filters and, if necessary, replace or rinse and refill, see below. And also - a hose, also see below. The symptoms of a broken hose can overlap with much more serious symptoms.

Vacuum cleaner device

The overwhelming majority of vacuum cleaner models are built according to 3 structural types:

With a dry dust bag;
With aquafilter (with air-water mist filter);
With non-replaceable cyclone dust collector.

Any of these types of vacuum cleaners can be equipped with attachments (brushes) for wet and dry cleaning. Nozzles have their own typical malfunctions, which we will also deal with further.

With bag

In a vacuum cleaner with a dry dust collector (on the left in the figure), the air passes first through the dust bag, then through the filter fine cleaning and motor fan compartment. T. called. The HEPA filter traps particles of the order of 1 micron. The HEPA filter works only under pressure, and dust grains less than 3-5 microns do not affect the operation and durability of the motor, therefore the HEPA filter is installed after the motor fan, which in this case also works as a compressor.

Vacuum cleaners with a dry dust collector are the least prone to breakage, but their main drawback is disposable filters... The dust collector is made of propylene or silicone fiber and cannot be regenerated - the filled bag is thrown away and replaced with a new one. If you try to clean it, rinse it, or sew a cloth from an old vacuum cleaner to the old neck, the formation of micro-dust increases so much that the thin and HEPA filter instantly clogs. If, however, you “cheat” with them in a similar way, it soon turns out that an expensive and / or complicated motor repair is necessary.

The fine filter and HEPA filter cannot be restored either, but in some cases it is still possible, see below. A characteristic sign of clogged filters is that the vacuum cleaner pulls poorly, hums strongly (without clanking and bouncing), and heats up. If there is an automatic system, after 1-15 minutes after switching on, it switches to a reduced power or stops. For example, over 65% of calls to the warranty service with inexpensive LG vacuum cleaners regarding such a "breakdown" are caused by a clogged HEPA filter. The user is shown where it is printed in small print that this is an out-of-warranty case and is friendly explained how much to pay. Meanwhile, replacing the filter in an LG vacuum cleaner is absolutely nonsense, see next. video.

Video: repairing a shutdown vacuum cleaner by replacing the filter (for example, LG)

With aquafilter

In vacuum cleaners in the aquafilter (in the center in the figure at the beginning of the section) filtration is 2-stage; in fact - one-stage. The flow of incoming air whips the water in the dustbin into a mist that immediately absorbs all dust. A vortex of mist swirls under the front visor of the dust collector and dust settles to the bottom. Further, the fog with the remnants of micro-dust passes through a fog filter, which also works as a HEPA filter, clean air without dripping moisture cools the motor and is discharged outside. A vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter consumes electricity by 20-25% less than a "dry one with a bag" of the same air capacity and with the same vacuum.

If the aquafilter of the vacuum cleaner is promptly emptied, rinsed and filled to the mark (or according to the norm in the instructions) with clean (better - distilled) water, then the fog filter serves without replacement up to 2-2.5 warranty periods... If you pour tap water into the dust collector by eye, it clogs up long before the end of the first. Symptoms are the same as before. case; replacement in the service is also paid. Self replacement - open the cover of the vacuum cleaner, squeeze the latches of the filter cover, remove the old one, put a new one. A clogged mist filter cannot be recovered.

Note: The fog filter of a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter almost always breaks down instantly if the vacuum cleaner is tipped over and liquid moisture gets on the fog filter. The same happens from overfilling the dust collector with water.

Much more serious is another disease of vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter - their motor is blown with air saturated with water vapor. On average, the warranty replacement of a fan motor with burnt windings in vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter is twice as likely as in others, per product; Samsung vacuum cleaners of the VC / VCD series are especially sinful. Signs that the motor windings are "twisted" (short circuit, short circuit, between turns) - the vacuum cleaner hums strongly, pulls poorly, heats up. Does not reach full capacity; possibly knocking out plugs or a circuit breaker. We check the motor for an orbit short circuit trace. way (the technique is also suitable for other types of vacuum cleaners):

We turn on the vacuum cleaner for a short time without a hose and with a dry aquafilter. A clang, knock is heard - you must first check the impeller and motor bearings, see below.
Works smoothly, but pulls weakly - cover the inlet (hose socket) with your palm. If the impeller is tightened with dust, but the motor is working properly, its sound should change significantly. Remained the same or the change is not very noticeable - constant orbit short-circuit.
The motor seems to be in good working order - remove the palm and wait 5-10 minutes (no more!). The thrust fell, the heating started; possibly knocked out plugs - intermittent coil short circuit from heating.
We are looking on the Internet or in any other way, how much does a new compressor (fan motor) cost for a given model of a vacuum cleaner for replacement.
We cope with the service or with the masters - such and such a model, a suspicion of a coil in the motor, what will the bulkhead with rewind cost?
We decide whether to send for repair or replace the compressor with our own hands, see below.

Note: also about repairing a Samsung VC6015V vacuum cleaner at 1500W you can watch the video below:

Video: disassembling and repairing a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter (for example, Samsung VC6015V)

With cyclone

A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone dust collector can be recognized by the transparent "glass" in front, see fig. on right. The masters say this to each other: well, they also brought me a glass. What happens in general no more often than with "dry bags". It's fair to say.

The main advantage of cyclone vacuum cleaners is that there are fewer disposable filters that need to be bought and purchased, and containers with water that must be carefully filled and must not be tipped over. It would seem that the motor may be weaker; seemingly minimal resistance to air flow. But no. Since the dimensions and configuration of the cyclone of the vacuum cleaner are far from optimal based on the physical properties of the air, the motor, on the contrary, is needed by the same 20-25% more powerful than for the "dry with a bag".

In household cyclonic vacuum cleaners, almost exclusively double cycloning is used (on the right in the figure with the diagrams above); such trade names contain the designation twin. Shake out the filled dust container; no rinsing required. The purified air then goes to engine compartment and out through the HEPA filter. Because the formation of micro-dust in the cyclone is minimal, the cyclone's HEPA filter lasts much longer.

Cyclonic vacuum cleaner disease - mesh filter at the cyclone outlet; it protects the fan motor from large particles. In general, cyclonic vacuum cleaners perform well in rooms where the hostess (or maid) is daily walked with a vacuum cleaner. If the room is cleaned once a week or less, the mesh filter will quickly become clogged. Symptoms are the same as from a clogged HEPA filter. And it happens that a very powerful vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, for example, a Samsung 1800W (Samsung SC8431 twin) in an ordinary room does not reach full power until the mesh filter is removed at all, see next. video.

Video: repairing a cyclonic vacuum cleaner with a clogged mesh filter (for example, Samsung SC8431)

Removing the strainer is certainly not beneficial for the longevity of the motor or for air and room cleanliness. Suddenly the vacuum cleaner will tighten a brooch, badge, paper clip, any small solid object - you can count out money for a new motor-fan with peace of mind, because from the dented impeller, the balancing of the motor armature is instantly disturbed, see below. Samsung's of lower power with cyclones do not require mesh removal (they have it less often), but another characteristic defect appears - a broken lower bearing. However, replacing it is much easier, cheaper and possible on your own, for example, see the article on how to repair a Samsung 1600W with such a malfunction:

Video: replacing the bearing in a cyclone vacuum cleaner

Renovation: from simple to complex

However, the cases in the video above are quite serious and not so frequent. We will return to what happens to the motor and what can be done with it. As with the cord reel - it sometimes gives outward signs, as from a coil short circuit and to get to the drum, you also need a complete disassembly of the vacuum cleaner. In the meantime, let's focus on what is available outside without tools - filters and a hose. Most often, the repair of a vacuum cleaner is reduced to them.

Filters

The "fine" and HEPA filters of the vacuum cleaner are similar, see fig. on right; the only difference is in the filter element. The frames of both are detachable (you need to tuck into the slot on the side). The HEPA filter is simply pulled out of the slot using the handle. Removing the fine filter is usually done by removing the dust bag. But in some models, the fine filter becomes available only with the motor, so see below.

Let us reveal a secret to the reader: filtering elements of autofilters are perfect for vacuum cleaner filter inserts (except for foggy ones). Moreover, they are made by the same manufacturers. It is worse with a fine filter: it requires an engine air filter insert, which is not sold separately. But the most expensive and quickly clogging HEPA filter is suitable for the cabin air filter insert of any SUV. The cheapest are UAZ ones, and they are no worse than the "cool firm".

Of one cabin filter enough for a few HEPAs, so open the original packaging by carefully cutting off the edge with scissors. Then the HEPA filter frame is pulled apart and the dirty insert is discarded. The frame is washed, wiped dry. A piece is cut out of the cabin filter to the size of the frame, and the remainder is put back into the bag and the edge is sealed with tape so that the liner does not suck dust from the air. The cut piece is placed in a frame, glued along the contour (preferably from a glue gun), the frame is snapped in - a new HEPA filter is ready.

Hose

If the hose sheath breaks, the vacuum cleaner behaves in the same way as with clogged filters, impeller or a small constant coil short circuit: pulls poorly, the sound of the motor changes, overheating is possible. It is simple to detect a malfunction: you just need to slightly pull the hose at the bar clip (the pipe on which the brush is mounted) or the connecting nipple (the thing with which the hose is inserted into the vacuum cleaner).

Most often, the hose breaks at the bar; in this case, repairs with improvised means are possible and very fast, literally without interrupting the cleaning:

Video: quick repair of a torn vacuum cleaner hose

Note: for repairing the hose of a vacuum cleaner with cleaning functions, see further acc. section.

Much less often, the vacuum cleaner hose breaks in the middle. It is also possible to restore it very quickly, but a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) is needed. It is not necessary to sit HERE over the flame, you can warm it up with air from a household hair dryer on full power... How to repair a vacuum cleaner hose using a heat-shrinkable tube, see next. video.

Video: heat shrink vacuum cleaner hose repair

Disassembly

Now let's take on more complicated repairs, for which the vacuum cleaner must be disassembled. This may be necessary if the measures described above are taken, the malfunction has been eliminated, but the external symptoms of the malfunction remain. Before disassembling the vacuum cleaner, you must:

Disconnect it from the power supply.
Disconnect the hose.
In vacuum cleaners with a cyclone or aquafilter, remove and empty the dust container.

The internal structure of the vacuum cleaner is shown in more detail on the left in the figure:

Dismantling the vacuum cleaner is carried out in the next. order:

Flip open the cover pos. 1 in fig.
Loosen the latches or remove the screws that secure the cover hinge to the body, and remove the cover if the hinge is in front.
If the cover folds back, remove the HEPA filter pos. 2.
Unscrew the screws under the HEPA filter.
Raise the carry handle. If a screw is visible underneath, remove it.
If the upper housing half mounting screws are visible from the top (red arrow in key 2), remove them.
If the mounting screws are not visible from above, turn the vacuum cleaner over and inspect from below. It is possible that the screws holding the halves of the case are hidden under the hinged technological cover, pos. 3.
Remove the upper housing cover. Now there will be access to the motor, drum with cord and, possibly, to the fine filter, pos. four.
In some models of vacuum cleaners, after the housing connector, 2 more screws and a latch are found. By unscrewing the screws and pressing the latch, you can remove the tray with the motor and drum, pos. five.
The motor-fan is fixed in the compartment with long screws (shown by arrows in pos. A).
Do not twist the screw heads, they sit on the thread and in the motor! It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the studs, then the motor will be removed, pos. 6.
The option of mounting the motor is likely when, instead of the nuts on the threaded rods, the screw heads are visible behind it. This means that the impeller shroud is firmly seated, see below. In this case, unscrew the screws and take out the fan motor.
By removing the motor power connector from the socket, we get full access to the power cord drum, pos. 7.

Motor: what can be done

For the sake of compactness, the electric motors of vacuum cleaners are made as collector motors with sequential excitation: a quiet and economical asynchronous engine of 1.5-2 kW will be the most of the vacuum cleaner and will pull not several tens of kilos. To obtain an acceptable efficiency of the collector motor (on alternating current, generally speaking, for electric cars out of hand), more or less decent performance of the impeller and reduce the noise of the vacuum cleaner, its motor is calculated high speed rotation, more than 10,000 rpm. In this case, the balancing of the rotor (which is called the armature in the collector motor) with the impeller becomes of great importance. If, for example, you climb "out of business" into the compressor and slightly crush the impeller (or break the plastic blade) - you "hit" a new compressor. Or, let's say, the vacuum cleaner rattled, but pulled. Then he stopped pulling. We disassemble, look - the bearing seats in the housing are broken. Again "hitalovo" for the same thing. Therefore, the immutable rules that must be followed, suddenly the vacuum cleaner junk and there is a suspicion of a mechanic, are as follows:

Suddenly, a hum, vibration, clang, knock, and other sharp extraneous sounds - do not delay the repair, it will be more expensive.
If the vacuum cleaner gets warm and, especially, smells of burnt insulation, turn it off immediately and see the previous page. paragraph.
Before getting to the engine, check everything carefully possible sources problems described above and the power cord drum, see below.
Make sure that the voltage in the sockets corresponds to that indicated in the passport or on the nameplate of the vacuum cleaner. Its household norm is 185-245 V, but powerful collector motors alternating current do not tolerate fluctuations in supply voltage in such a wide range; for them, the norm (unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise) is 195-235 V.
Not knowing the ford, do not go into the water - take on the electromechanics, only knowing exactly what and how you will do there and where it will lead.

The internal structure of the fan motor of the vacuum cleaner is shown in pos. 1 fig. below, and in pos. 2 and 3 - variants of its execution. Pos. 2 - fastening with short screws at the back and the impeller casing on a tight fit (see also above) is used predominantly. in modern vacuum cleaners; the entire air flow washes over the motor. Pos. 3 - the casing with a seal is fastened with stud screws, this is an old, but still quite common option. In this case, there are no problems: unscrew the screws, pry off the casing with a screwdriver (it stuck to the seal), and the casing falls off by itself.

If the casing is on a tight fit, very, very carefully, without rushing, we slowly tap its backward-protruding side until the casing slides off. It would be better to put a steel strip 3-4 mm thick: it, without weakening the impact, will distribute its force along the greater length of the side. Assembly, by the way, is in the reverse order, only we tap the neck. If it is not there, then the unit is assembled at a special stand. Then stop! We do not climb further ourselves.

But, let's say, the cover is removed and we see the impeller, pos. 5. Dented or battered - new compressor, there is nothing to be done. At such a speed of rotation, if a pushpin gets into the impeller, the bearing seats will be loose; what this means, see above.

Okay, the impeller is intact. We unscrew the fastening screws of the brush holders (shown with red arrows in the figure on the right) and take out the brush holders with brushes (green arrows). For now, put aside and check the impeller: without brushes, it should rotate freely, easily, smoothly and make several turns from a sharp push with your finger. No - see below, but for now we will deal with the brush-collector assembly.

We check the cuts of the brushes, they should remain at least 1-1.5 cm in length and exactly the same. If a hole is visible in the middle of the end of the brush, and there is some kind of copper in it, that's it, the brushes are completely worn out. The brushes are changed only and only in complete pairs. If one is worn even one millimeter more than the other, the pair of brushes changes regardless of the degree of general wear.

We clean the collector with suede moistened with alcohol and wipe it dry with flannel. God forbid rubbing with a sandpaper! The collector lamellas of the vacuum cleaner motors are made of copper-plated aluminum. A thin layer of copper: ripped with sandpaper to white - a new compressor. The same if an annular groove is found on the manifold, which is burnt out from an all-round fire. A circular fire surrounds the collector if the vacuum cleaner is driven for a long time with clogged filters.

Now let's say that the impeller rotates tightly and / or not smoothly, it seems like it clings to something. In fact, it can be removed with a pneumatic or hydraulic puller, but first you need to unscrew the left-hand threaded nut holding the impeller. She sat down tightly: each time the vacuum cleaner is turned on, the inertia of the impeller tends to tighten the nut. Not having the skills to work with mechanics and electromechanics, it is better to stop at this and honestly tell the masters: I myself do not know how, but I am completely afraid to break it. But for amateurs who fully own the tool, we give a video on how to unscrew the vacuum cleaner impeller nut:

Video: unscrewing the vacuum cleaner impeller nut

If the nut gave way, you can try to remove the impeller by carefully turning the shaft to the right and left with your hands. The shaft can be fixed with a nylon cord: one end of it is tied to some hole, the shaft is tightly wrapped under the impeller with a cord, then the assistant pulls the free end of the cord all the time, and you are trying to rip off the impeller. But never jam the shaft with something hard! The silumin motor housing can crack, and then again - a new compressor. Some even manage to turn the shaft in the anchor, which is understandable to the mind, but with great difficulty.

Okay, the impeller has slipped. What for? To check the bearings. We drip 1-2 drops of kerosene or brake fluid into the gaps between the bearing races and their seats in the housing. We take a nail, rest its point against the hole on the shaft shank and try to push the anchor (see the figure below) forward. If you haven’t got used to it, it will work. front bearing more back. You can tap the head of the nail lightly with a light hammer, but be very careful - the silumin body may crack!

Checking the rotation of the bearings. It will be difficult to remove the unusable ones, because they are cold-loaded on the shaft journals, i.e. the armature is cooled before installing the bearings. You can try to warm up the bearings with a household hairdryer and, while hot, push the ends of the scissors. There are other ways, see, for example, how to replace the motor bearings of the rather popular Samsung SC4325 next. video:

Video: replacing the bearing of the Samsung SC4325 vacuum cleaner

What is not necessary

"Recover" broken bearings with lithol, fiol, etc. The engine speed is not right for such a trick to pass. Also, you do not need to rewind the anchor yourself, because of the same rotation speed. After rewinding, you definitely need it dynamic balancing... Not static in centers! If there is a specialist who rewinds with a guarantee, and takes a cheaper new compressor for it, you can try. But you don't need it yourself.

Drum

In the power cord drum, mechanical and electrical faults... Mechanical - breakage of the locking lever and the spring inside. In either case, the cord is either not pulled out or pulled back, in whole or in part. The lever is usually flat, L-shaped; a new one is made from a piece of metal, special accuracy is not needed. To get to the spring (and contacts, see below), you need to completely wind the cord and disassemble the drum; all mounting screws are outside. Usually the mustache breaks off the spring. To bend the new one, the end of the spring is released, heating over fire. When reassembling the drum, the spring is wound up 2-3 turns and the cord travel is checked. Does not fully stretch - the initial plant must be weakened. The whole is not drawn in - on the contrary, to strengthen.

The power cord in the drum is usually connected to the vacuum cleaner assembly with sliding contacts. Symptoms of their malfunction - the vacuum cleaner works intermittently or does not turn on at all. It is possible that it coincides with the signs of a coil short circuit: it heats up, pulls poorly, carries burnt insulation. However, it is useless to check the contacts with a tester: it will not catch the intermittent point non-contact.

The drum contacts are checked with a homemade probe from any earphone and penlight batteryfamiliar to radio amateurs. See figure for checkout:

The procedure is as follows:

One probe (no matter which one) is placed on the drum contact pad (shown by red arrows).
With another probe, the corresponding plug of the power plug is found by clicking in the earpiece.
One person listens to what is in the earphone, holding the plug, while the other pulls the cord completely out of the loop and lets go.

There should be dead silence in the earpiece all the time. The slightest rustle - the drum needs to be sorted out, cleaned, straightened or changed contacts. The current through the earphone is only a few mA, but what will happen when the standard 5-10 A goes through the circuit?

Wiper blades

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions are also possible in active handpieces, i.e. performing cleaning functions. How their main varieties work and work is shown in Fig. below. In the wet handpiece (left in the figure), the main source of failure is the user. The detergent pump is not designed to run dry. If you do not fill the vacuum cleaner before cleaning, its motor will be damaged. The pump is structurally integral to the detergent tank and cannot be repaired. As for the pipes for supplying the detergent and its spray, they are outside, transparent and the blockages in them are immediately visible. For cleaning, the feed tube is simply pulled from the fitting on the vacuum cleaner and sprayer, and is also simply put back on. Replacement is also not difficult: any plastic tube of a suitable diameter.

To see the device of a dry (sweeping) active tip (on the right in the figure), you need to remove the side covers sitting on friction or latches on the tip hinge (in the center in the figure) or directly on the sides of the brush. A low-power dust-proof brush motor rarely fails. The drive belt sags and slips more often (green arrow on the right in the figure) or the bristles of the throwing drum wear out; it should protrude beyond the lower plane of the tip by at least 8-9 mm. The throwing drum cannot be restored; it is replaced with a new one. A break in the power supply wires of the throwing drum drive is also quite common. The wires run inside the hose; how to replace them in the fairly widespread Samsung SC-6573 vacuum cleaner, see the plot:

Video: repair of wires in a hose with a regulator (Samsung SC-6573)

Finally about electronics

I must say that the electrical circuits of vacuum cleaners, except for the most expensive ones with microprocessors, are not particularly complicated. Electric circuit diagram the vacuum cleaner, which can be considered close to a typical one, is shown in Fig. below. The mains voltage in this case is 110 V. For a voltage of 220 V, the resistance R1 is increased to 150 Ohm and its power is up to 2 W. R5 take 330 kOhm, VR1 and VR2 take 470-510 kOhm, R3 - 24 kOhm 2 W. The operating voltage of all capacitors is 630 V.

R3 sets maximum power vacuum cleaner, it can be changed in the range of 12-47 kOhm. VR1 is an online power adjustment, and VR2 is set to its minimum value, and you need to be careful here. The fact is that if the motor armature stops, every half-cycle of the mains voltage will flow through it a starting current equal to 3-5 working ones, and an expensive powerful triac (TRIAC according to the scheme) will burn out. Therefore, when setting up the circuit, the VR2 engine is first set to the minimum resistance, then a voltage of 175 V is given from the LATR and VR2 very carefully, without overshoot, the motor speed is reduced to 700-800 rpm.

Thermal protection in such a circuit is also easy: parallel to C3, a 1-1.5 MΩ thermistor is connected (for a 220 V mains voltage) with a reverse logarithmic temperature characteristic. Physically, the thermistor must be in thermal contact with the motor housing, but electrically isolated from it. A "cold" thermistor (at room temperature) does not affect the operation of the circuit, but when heated to 70-80 degrees, its resistance will drop to 1-0.5 R3, C3 will charge slower for half a period, a low-power DIAC triac will open and open TRIAC later , and the engine power will decrease by half or four times. In approximately the same way, it is possible to modify most vacuum cleaners with power control, but without protective automation.

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