A scooter is a fairly common vehicle today, it does not require a lot of fuel, but at the same time it does not provide incredible speeds, which his two-wheeled motorcycle brothers can boast of. This is a rather specific type of transport that not everyone will choose for themselves. But all people who love scooters are always in awe of riding them, they have a lot of fun and they also find them extremely practical. But at the same time, not a single vehicle is insured against breakdowns, including a scooter.
Faults can be very diverse, but this article will focus on electronics, or more precisely, how to check the switch on a scooter. Naturally, if you have no idea what this is about, then you should not immediately take up the tools. It is better for you to calmly and carefully study how exactly the electronics in a scooter are arranged, what is the difference between checking the switch on a car and on a moped, and also what exactly you can do to check the electronics for damage and repair your vehicle. In general, before considering how to test a switch on a scooter, you should understand what it is all about.
Switch and circuit device
How to check a scooter switch if you don't even know what it is and where to look for it? That is why you need to start small. The first thing you need to do is find out.In fact, everything is quite simple, since a switch is an element of the electrical ignition circuit in a vehicle, which generates a low voltage pulse that is transmitted to the ignition coil. Apart from the general picture, the definition does not look very clear, so it is worth considering the structure of the entire circuit.
So, the main element here is the generator, which generates the operating voltage in order for the switch considered in this article to work. As mentioned above, with the help of the generator's energy, the switch generates a pulse for the ignition coil, but not just a pulse - it is a low voltage. In turn, a high voltage pulse is generated at a specific point in time, which is transmitted to the candle. The candle is screwed into the cylinder head and, upon receiving a high voltage pulse, ignites the combustible mixture, which drives the engine. Well, now you know how the electrical circuit works in a vehicle, which will give you a better understanding of how to test the switch on a scooter.
Malfunction
What prompted you to study the article on how to test a switch on a 4T scooter or any other common model? Most likely, your vehicle has stopped starting, but you are not sure what exactly the problem might be. Perhaps the ignition is junk, perhaps the engine stalls. All of this may or may not have a reason in the switch - this is the point. the main problem repair. You need to determine exactly where the problem is in order to fix it.
If your switch is not working or not functioning in the best way, then a low voltage pulse will not be transmitted to the ignition coil - accordingly, ignition will not occur. But the problem can be in the generator, and in the coil, and even in the candle, so you need to know how exactly to check these elements. This material focuses specifically on the switch, so the focus will be mainly on how to test the switch on a 4T scooter and other popular models.
Switch on car and scooter
Many car enthusiasts may be surprised, as they know that checking the switch in a car is a matter of minutes. To do this, you just need to use a voltmeter, which sometimes even comes directly with the car. You just need to know where to connect what, and no problems arise at all. However, in the case of a scooter, things are a little different.
If you want the operability of the switch on a scooter on your own, then you should remember that you cannot achieve accurate measurements if your switch remains in the same place where it is always located. More specifically, all this will be considered a little later, but now you just need to understand that checking the switch on a car and on a scooter are slightly different things, so you should not think that the process will be identical. Read on, and you switch on a scooter with a multimeter, just like on a car, and what are the disadvantages of this method.
Testing the Switch with a Tester
If you have a special testing device, that is, a tester, then you can use it on the switch, since in any case it can give certain results. You can use a simple voltmeter, you can use a more versatile multimeter, but in any case, you need to remember that this part of the scooter has five leads - to ground, to the sensor, to power, to the ignition coil and to turn off. If you have only one switch and tester, then you can only check zero voltage. When the needle of the tester does not move at one of the outputs, it means that there is no voltage in it.
However, a complete loss of voltage is not always a consequence of damage - sometimes it can happen that at any of the outputs it will be unstable, underestimated, and so on. And you will not be able to find out about this if you do not have the same switch to which the measurements have already been made, for comparison. As you can imagine, this is only a partial check, that is, you can use this method in order to figure out how to check the switch on a Yamaha scooter or any other specific model. But if you want to spend full check, you will have to use more effective ways... How to check the malfunction of the switch on a scooter with maximum accuracy? You will need another working scooter for this.
Checking on another scooter
If you are wondering how to check the switch on a Honda-Dio scooter, then in this case you will not need another Honda-Dio to complete the procedure. We will talk about the interchangeability of switches for scooters a little later, but now you need to understand that you can get accurate readings if you have another scooter in the nearest access. This method is the simplest and most common.
You need to turn off the switches on both scooters and then connect the item under test to the other scooter. If everything works fine, it will mean that the switch is okay, that is, the problem should be looked for in some other area. Naturally, this extra work, but the fact remains - you learned how to check the serviceability of the switch on a scooter, you performed the check and got the result. If the problems persist, then you have found it - you will need to repair or replace the switch, but this will also be written about later.
At the moment, it's time to move on to another very interesting way - imitation.
Simulation stand
If you do not have a second scooter, and there is also no way to get access to it, then you should think about purchasing or making a special stand for yourself that would imitate the operation of your scooter. It is ideal to test the switch on a Honda scooter, as well as on any other model, and if you constantly use such a vehicle, then there is a chance that you will have to use the stand more than once or twice, therefore, you should definitely invest into it.
Now it is much more convenient to purchase it and install it in your garage, so that, if necessary, you can always check any part without using another scooter. But you can also do it yourself - only in this case you need to have very high skills and abilities in engineering, and it is also desirable to have an impressive experience of dealing with such equipment. You should also know that such a stand has other advantages over a second scooter for control.
Difference between stand and second scooter
Let's say you are wondering how to test the switch on a 2T scooter. You have read this article and realized that simply using the tester will not give you the results you want. Therefore, you are faced with the question of whether to get a stand, or still try to find another scooter to test. Many people lean towards the second option as it looks much simpler and more convenient. However, you should still consider the first one, as it has several significant advantages. One of the biggest lies in the depth of the test: if with a second scooter you can simply test the functionality of the switch and some of the details of its operation, then at the stand you will have a full range of possibilities. Everything will be in front of your eyes, you can use the tester on any element, set the required number of revolutions in order to test at various degrees of load, and so on. You can even check the compatibility of the switches with the ignition coils, as well as come up with any checks and tests that your imagination will allow.
In general, you will have a full flight of imagination. You will receive an answer to the question not only about how to check if the switch is working on a scooter. You will be able to get an answer in general to any question that will concern your vehicle. However, it should be said right away that if you just decided to buy a scooter for a couple of years, then change to a motorcycle or a car, then you should not waste time and money. The stand is more suitable for those people who are confident that they will ride a scooter for many years.
Switch repair
So, you have received all the necessary information on how to troubleshoot the switch in your scooter. Now you can spend some time discussing how to fix this problem. The first option is renovation. You may be surprised, but this is far from the most common option, and now you will find out why. The fact is that the scooter switch circuit is most often filled with very strong plastic, and if you try to clean it off to make repairs, then there is a very high probability that you will cause irreparable damage. Therefore, if you still want your switch to be repaired, then you should entrust this matter to a specialist who has owned a soldering iron for several years and has been doing similar things. However, as mentioned earlier, this method is not very popular, as it is very troublesome. Most scooter owners would rather save time and hassle and buy a new switch right away when they find out that their current one is out of order.
Buying a switch
Buying a switch is the easiest and fastest way out, since you do not waste time, effort, and cost. this mechanism not so great as to save a lot on it. This is really the smartest way out that you can think of in a situation where your switch burned out. However, again, it is very important that you check everything correctly, do not use only the tester, but carry out a full-fledged procedure for checking the switch, so that you can say with accuracy that the reason lies precisely in it. Otherwise, you just spend money on new part but your scooter will still not function.
Interchangeability of switches
Separately, it is worth talking about the interchangeability of switches for scooters, since this issue worries so many people who use these vehicles. Fortunately, this question only brings positive emotions, since in most cases switches on different models scooters are interchangeable. This means that in the event of damage to one switch, you do not have to search for the exact same switch everywhere, because you can use any other that you can find.
Naturally, it cannot be said that absolutely all switches are interchangeable, there are some points that you should pay attention to. First of all, this is the presence or absence in the circuit - in some models of scooters, it replaces the ignition coil, and, accordingly, the switch that interacts with will not be suitable for replacing the switch that interacted with the ignition coil. There are other limitations as well - for example, the switch that is used for an engine with a different number of cylinders will not work for you. Fortunately, scooters almost always use single-cylinder engines, but this is still worth paying attention to.
Friends, do not flatter yourself strongly. The Internet, in particular, this site is intended only to help you in solving a particular problem. And the rest will depend only on you, or rather only on your desire and nothing else.
What is a switch and why is it needed?
To put it simply, a switch is a kind of module (according to Feng Shui - a DC CDI or AC CDI module) in which electrical energy is accumulated, which at the right moment is supplied in the form of a pulse to the ignition coil, where it is multiplied many times and slips in the form of an electric spark between the spark plug electrodes.
The scooter switch looks something like this
Depending on the type of switches, the energy required to form eggs can be stored in the switch in two ways:
On AC CDI switches - the energy required to form a spark on the spark plug is first generated in the high-voltage coil of the generator and then, in the form alternating current enters the switch, ...
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The scooter is a fairly common vehicle today, it does not require a lot of fuel, but at the same time it does not give the incredible speeds that its two-wheeled motorcycle brothers can boast. This is a rather specific type of transport that not everyone will choose for themselves. But all people who love scooters are always in awe of riding them, they have a lot of fun and they also find them extremely practical. But at the same time, not a single vehicle is insured against breakdowns, including a scooter.
Faults can be very diverse, but this article will focus on electronics, or more precisely, how to check the switch on a scooter. Naturally, if you have no idea what this is about, then you should not immediately take up the tools. It is better for you to calmly and carefully study exactly how the electronics in a scooter are arranged, what is the difference between checking the switch on a car and on a moped, and also what exactly you ...
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A switch is such a small black box with a connector that can be in different places (depending on the model of the scooter).
He performs very important function- formation of an impulse applied to the spark plug. On shovel motorcycles (with the exception of the latter, with electronic ignition, which is a primitive analogue of a scooter switch) instead of electronic switch costs mechanical breaker.
The essence of his work is as follows:
From the generator (from a separate ignition winding, not connected to the power winding of the headlight and other electrical equipment), a voltage is applied to the switch, which accumulates on the input capacitor. Also, the switch receives pulses from an induction sensor located in the generator. These impulses are given a little earlier than it is necessary to light a spark on the candle. Further, the main trick of the switch comes into play - a block of progressive ignition timing. That is, upon arrival of a pulse from the sensor, depending on ...
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The switch is a kind of "brain" of the ignition system in cars and motor vehicles, designed to generate a current pulse and supply it to the bobbin. In human terms, this is a microcomputer that supplies a certain charge of current to the spark plug to ignite fuel in the engine. internal combustion.
Condenser ignition systems
In 2-stroke scooters, a condenser ignition system is usually used, which is mainly used in all Japanese and Chinese scooters, we will dwell on it in more detail.
If you "look" inside the switch, then the first thing you stumble upon will be a capacitor, it is he who powers the entire system, of course the remaining "insides" also play a significant role in the ignition system, but they all have a secondary role.
The principle of operation of the capacitor is as follows: when the engine is started, energy begins to accumulate in the capacitor, and as soon as it gains the required voltage (usually 100-400 Volts), the current is sent to the bobbin along the coil ...
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The switch is used to control low-voltage currents of the primary winding of the ignition coil.
Scooter Switch Types
Of the mass of types of switches, only three types are used for motor vehicles:
Switch with built-in high voltage generator (DC CDI) Switch requiring a high voltage supply (AC CDI) Switching coil
DC CDI switch
One of the most famous switches due to the ease of connection. The most common one has only 4 contacts for such wires:
Plus (12V) Minus Hall sensor Ignition coil
Not looking at simplicity, there are many switches of this kind. Is with a limiter maximum speed and without, with a change in ignition timing, with auxiliary contacts for a variety of needs. In particular, it is permissible to "hook" a side stand to some switches, when opening which engine will not spin up to revolutions, at which the clutch is activated. This is done ...
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In most cases, not a lot of information is known about the sports commutator, and most often we are talking about commutators for 2-stroke scooters, which were previously widespread in our territory. The use of switches on standard 2-stroke scooters did not give a noticeable increase in dynamics, or this dynamics quickly rendered the scooter unusable due to an attempt to "squeeze" everything possible out of it. It was forgotten that the replacement of the switch is carried out in a complex way when the characteristics of the scooter engine change. The engine speed of a 2-stroke scooter is significantly higher than a 4-stroke scooter, and this is another risk when trying to use it incorrectly - it is much easier to get a thermal stuck from overheating.
The standard or "stock" switch is the one installed at the factory when the scooter is manufactured. The main advantage of a standard commutator is that it is designed for the engine that is installed on your scooter. In the overwhelming majority of cases, it contains a speed limiter (up to 7000-7500), ...
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Scooter Switch Description
Designation of contacts: 1 - power supply (high-voltage coil of the generator), 2 - electromagnetic sensor, 3 - ground, 4 - output to the ignition coil, 5 - blocking (to the ignition switch) - turning off the engine by shorting to ground, 6 - carburetor switch.
NF125 Yamaha - Licensed
Honda JH70, TH90, DY100, CH100, AF27, AF18 JH70 - JIALING (Honda) - DAYANG, AF18 / 27-Honda Dio 50
Honda DX100, DX90 DX90, DX100, - KINETIC Honda, Takasaki
Yamaha CY80, NY125 CY80, NY125 - NANFANG (Yamaha)
Suzuki GS125 GS125 - QINGGI (Suzuki)
Honda WY125, XF 125, GY6, CG125A, CG125M, CB125T - DREAM, GY6 - HONDA, XF 125 - XINGFU (1992)
honda CH125 - HONDA SPACY
honda LP09, LP06, LP020 HONDA AF18, HONDA AF24
honda LP012, LP013 HONDA AF27, HONDA AF28
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Locked up 20 zhovt. 2010 p.
A friend's switch broke and had to go to another city. amicably removed the second ignition switch from his scooter.
When it came to buying a new switch, then somehow the toad strangled to give 450 rubles for cheap parts. all the more experience in building radio structures is complete.
I took as a basis a fee from a tape recorder Nota 203, which I found on the street broken 5 years ago. roller pressure anchor control board. assembled on the KU202N thyristor, electrolyte, variable resistor and 4 more diodes. but not about the anchor thrust scheme.
this circuit is based on the KU202N thyristor, which was left on the board, having evaporated all the other parts from there. soldered a simple schematic. connected. the engine did not start the first time, but that's understandable. the scooter stood for a month before removing the switch. but after checking the spark for mass, I saw that it still exists, but what kind. at a distance of two centimeters to the cylinder block cover, a savory thick blue spark jumps with a crack ...
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Let's talk about one important detail, without which not a single motor vehicle (well, or almost none) can do without.
Switch with built-in high voltage generator (DC CDI) Switch requiring high voltage supply (AC CDI) Switching coil.
DC switch
DC switch
One of the most common switches due to its ease of connection. The simplest of them has only four contacts on board for the following wires:
Plus (12V) Minus Hall sensor Ignition coil
Despite the simplicity, there is a great variety of switches of this type. There are both with a maximum speed limiter and without, with change phases ignition timing, s additional contacts for a wide variety of needs. For example, to some switches you can “hook” a “lazy” (side stand), when you open it, the motor will not spin up to the speed at which it turns on ...
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This article will present the connection diagrams (pinouts) of switches, the most popular scooter models in Russia. Also, if possible, the switches will be opened in order to study their contents in detail.
A big request to readers who are well versed in electronics, express in the comments their assessment of the quality, device and tuning capabilities of the switches presented in this article.
Let's start with a switch model installed on Chinese scooters equipped with a 139QMB engine. Such a switch is of the DC-CDI type, which is quite rare in the "Chinese".
Pinout:
Such a switch is of the AC CDI type and is installed on the vast majority of "Chinese" equipped with 139QMB, 157QMJ engines.
Pinout:
This switch is after opening.
Such a switch is of the AC CDI type, it is installed on the Chinese "Alpha" and "Delta" mopeds equipped with ...
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The easiest way to limit the speed of the scooter at minimal cost and with the possibility of further tuning is to flash the switch in this way. Most manufacturers limit themselves to just such a limit, especially the three Japanese brands: Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki. When tuning scooters, the commutator is replaced first, as it limits the potential of the engine.
Typically, the crankshaft speed is limited to 6500 - 7500 rpm. That is why, even a briskly accelerating scooter, simply stops picking up speed when this parameter is reached.
Tuning the switch on the scooter allows you to spin the engine up to 10,000 rpm and more. This can only be achieved with complex tuning, together with other parts, because the stock crankshaft and bearings do not have such a power reserve. They will certainly serve you for some time, but this working interval is several times less than that, by ...
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Section: Electrician on a scooter
Over the years of developing cars and motorcycles, they came to the conclusion that this scooter system should be as reliable as possible, because scooters are intended for uncaring people.
Therefore, in Japanese motor scooters there are no cam ignition systems as in IZH motorcycles and scooters (old mopeds). Even the oldest Hondas have an electric sensor. But more about him later. After all, not all scooters have it. For example, the Suzuki Sepia has a pretty tricky shaft position control system. Therefore, you will not find diagrams of this switch on the Internet. It is quite complex in terms of internal architecture. I'll talk about this later. And now I want to classify and break into parts existing systems ignition on Japanese, Chinese, Korean and European scooters.
Several systems are distinguished depending on the type of engine. On 2-stroke Chinese mopeds, there is a system exactly copied from Sepia. But in terms of reliability, it is simply terrible! The switches in it ...
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Ignition switch: how to check on a scooter or auto of the domestic auto industry
The switch plays a significant role in car system ignition. And if this element is faulty, then the engine will not be able to start. That's why experienced drivers especially the owners domestic cars, such as VAZ "sevens", "nines", etc., have long taken the habit of carrying a spare distributor and switch with them.
The switch plays a significant role in the automotive ignition system and if it is faulty, the engine will not work.
However, there is not always a spare kit, and in which case you have to check the ignition system in field conditions... So let's figure out how, without service equipment, you can easily check the switch on various vehicles.
How to check the ignition switch
There are many ways to test a switch. Some of them will require primitive tools or an assistant. But...
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Dedicated to all owners of Chinese scooters ...
To begin with, I would like to present the wiring diagram of a Chinese scooter.
Since all Chinese scooters are very similar like Siamese twins, their electrical circuit is practically the same.
The circuit was found on the Internet and is, in my opinion, one of the most successful, since it shows the color of the connecting conductors. This greatly simplifies the diagram and makes it more comfortable to read.
(Click on the picture to enlarge. The picture will open in a new window).
It should be noted that in electrical diagram scooter, as in any electronic circuit, there is common wire... For a scooter, the common wire is minus ( - ). The common wire is shown in the diagram. green color. If you look more closely, you will notice that it is connected to all the electrical equipment of the scooter: the headlight ( 16 ), turns relay ( 24 ), backlight dashboard (15 ), indicator lamps ( 20 , 36 , 22 , 17 ), tachometer ( 18 ), fuel level sensor ( 14 ), sound signal ( 31 ), rear light / brake light ( 13 ), starting relay ( 10 ) and other devices.
First, let's go over the main elements of the Chinese scooter circuit.
Egnition lock.
Egnition lock ( 12 ) or "Main switch". The ignition switch is nothing more than a conventional multi-position switch. Despite the fact that the ignition switch has 3 positions, only 2 are used in the electrical circuit.
When the key is in the first position, it closes Red and black the wire. In this case, the voltage from the battery enters the electric circuit of the scooter, the scooter is ready to start. The fuel level indicator, tachometer, sound signal, relay-turns, ignition circuit are also ready for operation. They are supplied with voltage from the battery.
In the event of a malfunction of the ignition switch, it can be safely replaced with some kind of switch like a toggle switch. The toggle switch must be powerful enough, because the entire electrical circuit of the scooter is, in fact, switched through the ignition lock. Of course, you can do without a toggle switch, if you limit yourself to closing red and black wires, as the heroes of Hollywood action movies once did.
In the other two positions, the black and white wire from the CDI ignition module ( 1 ) to the body (common wire). In this case, the engine is blocked.... Some scooter models have an engine stop button ( 27 ), which, like the ignition lock, connects the white black and green(common, frame) wire.
Generator.
Generator ( 4 ) produces a variable electricity for supplying all current consumers and charging battery (6 ).
5 wires leave the generator. One of them is connected to a common wire (frame). The alternating voltage is removed from the white wire and fed to the relay-regulator for subsequent rectification and stabilization. WITH yellow wires remove the voltage, which is used to power the lamp of the near / high beam which is installed in the front fairing of the scooter.
Also in the design of the generator there is a so-called Hall Sensor... Electrically, it is not connected to the generator and there are 2 wires from it: white green and red -black... The hall sensor is connected to the CDI ignition module ( 1 ).
Relay regulator.
Relay-regulator ( 5 ). The people may call it "stabilizer", "transistor", "regulator", "voltage regulator" or simply "relay". All these definitions refer to one piece of hardware. This is what a relay regulator looks like.
The relay-regulator for Chinese scooters is installed in the front part under the plastic fairing. The relay-regulator itself is attached to the metal base of the scooter in order to reduce the heating of the relay radiator during operation. This is what a relay regulator looks like on a scooter.
In the operation of a scooter, the relay-regulator plays a very important role. The task of the relay regulator is to turn the alternating voltage from the generator into a constant one and limit it to 13.5 - 14.8 volts. This is the voltage required to charge the battery.
The diagram and the photo show that 4 wires leave the relay-regulator. Green is a common wire. We have already spoken about him. Red is a positive output constant voltage 13.5-14.8 volts.
By white AC voltage from the generator is supplied to the wire to the regulator relay. Also connected to the regulator yellow wire coming from the generator. It supplies the regulator with alternating voltage from the generator. Due to the electronic circuit of the regulator, the voltage on this wire is converted into a pulsating one, and is supplied to powerful current consumers - a low and high beam lamp, as well as a dashboard backlight lamp (there may be several of them).
The supply voltage of the lamps is not stabilized, but is limited by the relay-regulator at a certain level (about 12V), since at high revs the alternating voltage coming from the generator exceeds the allowable value. I think those who have burned out dimensions when the relay-regulator malfunctions know about this.
Despite all its importance, the device of the relay-regulator is rather primitive. If you dig out the compound with which the printed circuit board is flooded, you can find that the main relay is electronic circuit from thyristor BT151-650R, diode bridge on diodes 1N4007, a powerful diode 1N5408, as well as several piping elements: electrolytic capacitors, low-power SMD transistors, resistors and a zener diode.
Due to its primitive circuitry, the relay-regulator often fails. Read how to check the voltage regulator.
Elements of the ignition circuit.
One of the most important electrical circuits on a scooter is the ignition circuit. It includes the CDI ignition module ( 1 ), ignition coil ( 2 ), spark plug ( 3 ).
5 conductors are connected to the CDI module. The CDI module itself is located at the bottom of the scooter body near the battery compartment and is fixed to the frame with a rubber retainer. Access to the CDI unit is hampered by the fact that it is located at the bottom and covered with decorative plastic, which has to be completely removed.
Structurally, the ignition coil is located next to the starting relay. To protect against dust, dirt and accidental short circuits, the coil is covered with a rubber cover.
A high voltage wire connects the ignition coil to the spark plug A7TC (3 ).
On the scooter, the spark plug was cleverly hidden, and the first time you can look for it for a long time. But if you "go" along the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil, then the wire will lead us straight to the spark plug cap.
The cap is removed from the candle with a slight force on yourself. It is fixed on the contact of the candle with an elastic metal latch.
It should be noted that the high-voltage wire is connected to the cap without soldering. The insulated stranded wire is simply screwed onto the contact screw built into the cap. Therefore, you should not tug strongly on the wire, otherwise you can pull the wire out of the cap. This can be easily eliminated, but the wire will have to be shortened by 0.5 - 1 cm.
Getting to the spark plug itself isn't easy. To dismantle it, you need a socket wrench. With its help, the candle is simply turned out of the seat.
Starter.
Starter ( 8 ). The starter is used to start the engine. It is located in the middle of the scooter next to the engine. It is not easy to get to it.
The starter start is controlled by the start relay ( 10 ).
The start relay is located on the right side of the scooter frame. A thick red wire from the positive terminal of the battery comes to the starting relay. This energizes the start relay.
Fuel gauge and indicator.
14 ) is built into the fuel tank.
Three wires leave the sensor. Green is common (minus power supply), and the other two sensors are connected to the fuel level indicator ( 11 ), which is installed on the scooter dashboard.
Fuel sensor ( 14 ) and indicator ( 11 ) are one device and are supplied with constant stabilized voltage. Since these two devices are spaced apart, they are connected with a three-pin connector. Positive supply voltage is supplied to the fuel indicator and the sensor via the black wire from the ignition switch.
If you open the three-pin connector coming from the fuel sensor, the fuel indicator will stop showing the fuel level in the tank. Therefore, if your fuel gauge does not work, then check the connector between the sensor and the fuel gauge, and also make sure that they are powered.
It is also worth remembering that the supply voltage to the sensor and the indicator is supplied when the ignition switch is closed ( 12 ). According to the diagram, this is the right position.
Turns relay.
Turning relay or interrupter relay ( 24 ). Serves to control the front and rear turn signal lamps.
As a rule, the turn relay is installed next to the instruments (speedometer, tachometer, fuel level indicator) on the dashboard. In order to see it, you need to remove the decorative plastic. It looks like a small plastic barrel with three leads. When the turn signals are on, it emits characteristic clicks with a frequency of about 1 Hz.
After the turn signal relay, a turn signal switch ( 23 ). This is a conventional rocker switch that switches the positive voltage from the rotary relay (gray wire) to the lamps. If you look at the diagram, then with the right switch position ( 23 ) we apply voltage through the blue wire to the right front ( 21 ) and right back ( 32 ) lamp pointer. If the switch is in the left position, then the gray wire closes to orange, and we supply power to the left front ( 19 ) and left rear ( 33 ) lamp pointer. In addition, parallel to the corresponding indicator lamps ( 19 , 20 , 32 , 33 ) are connected signal lamps (20 and 22 ), which are located on the scooter dashboard and serve as a purely informational signal for the scooter driver.
Sound signal.
Sound signal ( 31 ) of the scooter is located under the plastic fairing of the scooter next to the relay-regulator.
Supply voltage sound signal- permanent. It comes from the relay-regulator or the battery (if the engine is off) through the ignition switch and the horn button ( 25 ).
Low / high beam lamp ( 16 ). Yes, the one that illuminates the road for us in the dark.
The lamp itself is double with two filaments and three contacts for connecting to an electrical circuit. One of the contacts is, of course, common. Lamp power 25W, supply voltage 12V. It burns godlessly with a faulty relay-regulator due to the fact that it does not limit the voltage amplitude at the level of 12 volts, which leads to the fact that a voltage of 16 - 27 volts is applied to the lamp, or even more. It all depends on the speed.
Therefore, if the lamp shines very brightly at idle, and not at full heat, then it is better to turn it off and check the relay-regulator. If you leave everything as it is, the low / high beam lamp will burn out, which is sad. Its cost is decent.
In the photo next to the turn signal lamp (red). The power of the lamp is 5W for a supply voltage of 12V.
Principle of operation and device electronic ignition/ switch. An excellent article on this is taken from the site ntscooters.moy.su
Over the years of development of cars and motorcycles, they came to the conclusion that this scooter system should be as reliable as possible, because scooters are intended for uncaring people.
Therefore, in Japanese motor scooters there are no cam ignition systems as in IZH motorcycles and scooters (old mopeds). Even the oldest Hondas have an electric sensor. But more about him later. After all, not all scooters have it. For example, the Suzuki Sepia has a pretty tricky shaft position control system. Therefore, you will not find diagrams of this switch on the Internet. It is quite complex in terms of internal architecture. I'll talk about this later. And now I want to classify and break into parts the existing ignition systems on Japanese, Chinese, Korean and European scooters.
Several systems are distinguished depending on the type of engine. On 2-stroke Chinese mopeds, there is a system exactly copied from Sepia. But in terms of reliability, it is simply terrible! The switches in it are on, only the noise is worth it! Personally, they brought me about 5 such mopeds with this symptom. It may be a defective batch, but take note anyway. Immediately, I note a significant difference between this system and the Honda and Yamaha systems - this is the absence of an ignition sensor (aka an induction sensor). I will describe the entire internal process later.
There are several types of switches on Japanese Honda mopeds. I will not write about tuning, we will limit ourselves to the standard. The 18E engines have the simplest and most reliable ignition system of all scooters. By its design, it strongly resembles the ignition of mopeds in the Carpathians, if it does not copy it exactly, which is quite likely. It differs from narrow ignition by the presence of an ignition sensor (induction) and a separate coil on the generator, which is not connected in any way with the rest of the scooter's electronics. This has advantages: when the generator is overloaded with lighting fixtures and other things, the ignition system will not fail. But it also has one significant drawback. A large amplitude voltage comes out of this coil on the generator, of the order of 160-600 volts (at different speeds), which is felt if water slightly gets on the switch contacts. Also, under certain conditions, this coil can simply short-circuit in turns (due to the amplitude), and then your scooter will stand up, and you will not even understand what the matter is. You will be looking for the cause of a weak or absent spark for a very long time. Also, tuning switches for this system are complex in design. After all, you know that they nonlinearly change the ignition timing at different speeds. And here there is also current and voltage jumping. Therefore, it is necessary to make a stabilization system, and a serious one. There is no such thing in stock switches, but if you want to understand the nuances on low levels, then you need to know.
For some reason, I have a premonition that tuning switches do not have microcircuits, and the advance is made simply by the timing chain RC, but this is just an assumption.
I will also write about the ignition system of the 34th Honda engine. Everything is a little different here. There is also an induction ignition sensor, it is identical to the sensor from the 18th engine. But the switch is powered not from a separate ignition coil, but from a common battery charging circuit. That is, in other words, from the battery. Also the regulator is a little different. The battery is fed here more current- so that it does not discharge from the switch.
There was a case with me: I was driving from the dacha, due to my inexperience in assembling the motor, the wires coming from the generator hung at the bottom of the motor. I somehow did not notice them. It was already getting dark when I ran over a stone. The headlight turned off immediately. I thought the lamp had burned out. But switching the headlight mode did not correct the situation: there was no light. Stopped, checked taillight... It didn’t burn either. Thought that the wiring was cut off or the regulator ran out. Since then I was not particularly strong in electronics, I scored and went home. There were 4 kilometers to the house. I arrived safely, but in the morning I found that the wires coming from the generator were simply cut off. Except for the ignition sensor wire. The battery has been trashed. It turns out I was riding it! Of course, in some cases this can be considered a plus!
And now a little science. This system was designed to completely free the scooter from water dependency, increase generator reliability and get rid of "extra wires". The switch design is more complex due to the lower supply voltage. But now we can easily install elements that are sensitive to energy surges. Therefore, it is undesirable to ride such scooters without a battery. It smoothes out the ripple and stabilizes the mains voltage.
Yamaha and Suzuki scooters and Chinese scooters have similar ignition systems.
And now I'll tell you a little about how the switch works. With the generator, I think everything is clear. It generates an alternating voltage of a given amplitude at a certain crankshaft speed. In order for an arc to occur, it is necessary to know the dielectric properties of the air. The breakdown voltage for 1 mm is about 3 thousand volts. Also, for reliable ignition, you need to create a spark of a certain duration. The main energy converter for igniting fuel on a scooter is a bobbin or ignition coil. It makes from 100 - 400 volts about 6,000 - 20,000 volts. However, the current also decreases proportionally. Those who have touched high-voltage wires at least once know what it is.
Well, okay, the reel is not very complicated and practically eternal ... Although if we are not talking about the Sepia switch. In it, the reel and the switch itself are in one.
The task of the switch is to apply an impulse to the reel at a certain point in time, of a certain duration and amplitude. What I will write next may be incomprehensible to many, but radio technicians will understand for sure.
We will consider only thyristor or so-called. condenser ignition systems. They are used in all the scooters described here ... The switch has a capacitor that stores energy in it. As soon as the moment of spark supply comes, this capacitor will short-circuit to the primary winding of the ignition coil. And this process is controlled by a thyristor. Therefore, the system is called thyristor or capacitor.
According to this principle, the stock switch 18E of the motor works on Honda and on many Chinese. In order for the amplitude to reach its operating value at the output of the bobbin, the capacitor must be charged with a capacity of 0.5-1 μF and an amplitude of about 200 volts. And as you might have guessed, the switch has to be powered by a high voltage anyway. Therefore, in the switches there are 34 motors pulse converter voltage. It makes 200-300 volts from 12 volts. And another plus is that at any speed the spark will be the same in power, which increases the stability of operation at idle and makes it easier to start. This is the difference between the switch of the 18th motor and the 34th. I have not seen such switches on Chinese mopeds. in production, they are much more expensive than the previous ones. It is quite possible that such people are used there. I would also like to say about the limiters. They are performed different ways, most often a timing chain. And if you change the conder, then the limiter will move to one side or the other along the scale. There are also other types.
Separately, it is worth noting the switch from Suzuki Sepia, I repeat that the same is on the Chinese, which our magazine does not recommend. That is, with a pipe curved with the letter S and two-stroke engine... In them, the basic principle of operation does not differ from the switch from the 18th motor. However, the shaft position control system is different. Exactly what kind, one can only guess. Personally, I have not disassembled any such switch. The Japanese specifically made this knot single and mysterious so that no one would want to copy, but craftsmen were still found in China.
Used material from www.ntscooters.moy.su.
The switch is used to control low-voltage currents of the primary winding ignition coils.
Scooter Switch Types
Of the mass of types of switches, only three types are used for motor vehicles:
- Switch with built-in high voltage generator (DC CDI)
- Switch that needs a high voltage supply (AC CDI)
- Switch coil
One of the most famous switches due to the ease of connection. The most common one has only 4 contacts for such wires:
- Plus (12V)
- Minus
- Hall Sensor
- Ignition coil
Not looking at simplicity, there are many switches of this kind. There are with and without a maximum speed limiter, with a change in the ignition timing, with additional contacts for a variety of needs. In particular, it is permissible to "hook" a side stand to some switches, when opening which engine will not spin up to revolutions, at which the clutch is activated. This is done in order to insure the driver against dangerous rash acts.
AC switch
It differs from DC switches in the ability to do without a stable current of 12V. It is arranged a little differently, because, in the presence of a more conventional design, it has a more complex option for connecting to an electrical circuit. Unlike DC switches, AC switches come in to a greater extent without a limiter of revolutions due to their small size and rather simple design, they can boast of the ability to work perfectly with a shortage of a number of nodes, without any DC switch will not be able to work in principle. Even if you remove the battery, relay-regulator, ignition lock, save only the high-voltage coil of the generator and the Hall sensor, and all the same, the scooter will start and drive. There are quite intricately organized switches of the provided type that are able to compete with the DC type, but this is a rarity. Without looking at the lack of need for direct current, AC is very much dependent on AC and the interconnection of the engine block with the frame, and if you burned or damaged one coil in the generator, which produces high voltage, the scooter will not start under any circumstances.
Ignition switch coil
The most complex type of switch. It connects in itself both the switch and the ignition coil, it does without a Hall sensor at all. It has been poorly studied due to its impenetrability and low prevalence.
Stock switch on scooter
Stock or original switch- this is the one that is installed on the vehicle from the factory. Its main superiority over others is that it is already designed for the equipment with which it functions, often with a limiter so that the engine does not develop revolutions that are dangerous to the life and resource of the main bearings, the entire crank mechanism, cylinder-piston groups and other structures and assemblies. The stock commutator is the primary source of a well-designed engine's durability, economy and durability. Those who take the risk of changing the factory switch to sports(tuning), he risks a lot. Even more are the risks of those who do not fully understand what they intend to do. Inexperienced installation of such parts and their subsequent use with conventional engine often lead to a decrease in the resource and the fatal end of the engine, sometimes on the same day.
Sports Switch
The key to a good sport commutator is to get the engine out of the rpm range. An understanding person will never install such a part on an unprepared engine. Such events are carried out in a complex and they are preceded by the change of a whole series of elements, only then everything will begin to work as it should. After such alterations, the progress of revolutions changes towards larger ones.
Switch with variable ignition timing
They are called to align the twisted torque and compensate for the power hunger in the required sections of the rpm. If before that the engine, suppose, pulled poorly in the zone of low and medium revolutions, now the commutator, well choosing ignition timing, this failure evens out, thereby providing more even dynamics and makes it possible to win in overclocking over its factory predecessor.
