In this small article, I want to offer many drivers, both motorcycles and cars, very simple and cheap, but despite this very reliable anti-theft devicethat will prevent intruders from starting the engine of any of your vehicle... In addition, such a device can be added additionally to the factory anti-theft system already installed on your device, which will double the safety of your property.
The basis of this inexpensive system is a reed switch, which is designated by the letters SF1 in the electrical diagram on the left, and in a radio store it can be found under the KEM-2 marking. The reed switch will need to be hidden in a secluded place, for example, under the leather of the seat, or under some kind of plastic part cladding, but so that you can easily reach it with a magnet.
The reed switch will need to be included in the car light relay circuit, as shown in the electrical diagram on the left, and buy the relyushka in the store exactly the headlight relay, which is designed for long work (in contrast to the signal relay). The marking of the reel on the electrical circuit is K1, and in the store when buying, be guided by the marking - 90.3743 or 90.3743-10. The relay contacts will break the primary circuit of the ignition coil.
When you assemble the circuit, the system will work in this way: you bring the magnet to the cache (I advise you to drill a hole in the magnet and hang it on the ignition key ring instead of the key fob), in which the reed switch is hidden, and at the same time the reed switch contacts close, the thyristor VS1 (marking KU201A ) will open and remain open until you turn off the ignition. In this case, the current flows through the coil of the K1 relay, which is triggered, and closes the circuit (gives a spill) of the primary winding of the ignition coil. The engine can now be started.
Upon arrival, when you need to turn off the engine, you turn off the ignition and the system will automatically switch to guard mode, that is, until you bring the magnet to a place that only you know, it is useless to start the engine of your motorcycle or car, since there will be no spark.
Some hijackers can connect the ignition coil with a piece of wire directly from the battery, if, for example, your ignition coil is located not somewhere under the tank, but in a conspicuous place. Then I advise you to start up the wire from the 30th contact of the relay not to the ignition coil, but to the positive wire, which supplies power to the switch, and hide the switch away (if you have electronic ignition). How to install an electronic ignition on a motorcycle, you can read, as well. Electronic ignition can be made on a car in a similar way, although for domestic cars ready-made kits are on sale.
To install such an anti-theft system on diesel engine, you will only need a wire from the 30th contact of the relay, connect it to the electro-valve on the injection pump of your engine, which cuts off the fuel supply when we turn off the engine. It is usually located on top of a high-pressure pump (injection pump), and who still cannot find it, then look at the manual (instructions for your engine), or ask to find the auto-electrician's electro-valve and connect the system to the valve.
Simple but effective DIY anti-theft device. Such a device can be made quite quickly and easily. Complex and expensive details are not required, but, despite this, the device can be very useful in protecting your beloved "horse". Currently, anti-theft devices have taken the path of complication, and even space technologies are already present in their manufacture, but despite this, car security is still relevant. Hijackers are also developing and applying the same modern technologies.
Perhaps this simple device will be the one that will confuse the kidnapper, who reckons that there are "cool" anti-theft devices everywhere.
The scheme works like this: anti-theft is on. The intruder opens the door, turns on the ignition, starts the engine and is glad that everything worked out for him. But suddenly the engine stalls. He starts it again, but after 5 - 15 seconds (depending on how you adjusted the anti-theft device) the engine stops again and there is a feeling that there are problems with fuel system... But he will not find a malfunction, since the time relay blocks the engine ignition system with a blocking time delay, and not the fuel one.
The proposed anti-theft device is, in fact, a relay with a delayed turn-on time.
Here is his diagram
Parts are used for this device.
- D1 microcircuit - K176LA7 or its imported analogue CD4011.
- Transistor VT1 - KT315 with any letter or import 2SC634, 2SC633, BFP722, 2N2712, BFP720, BFP721, BFP719.
- Transistor VT2 - KT815 or BD 135, BD 139, BD 137.
- Capacitor C1 - 33 MKF 25 volts.
- Capacitor C2 - 10 - 20 MKF 25 volts. This capacitor is the master, which means that the time delay before the relay is turned on depends on its capacity. With a 10 MKF capacitor - the time is about 7 seconds, and 20 MKF - about 15 seconds, but it also depends on the resistor R1, which is also a component of the timing chain - R1 - C2 and the time also depends on its resistance.
- R1 is about 300 KOhm, but I set the potentiometer to 680 KOhm in order to be able to demonstrate the change in the time delay before relaying Rel1, depending on the value of its resistance. In the finished device, when you have decided what time delay suits you, the potentiometer can be replaced with a constant resistance equal to the resistance of the potentiometer.
- R2 - 100 Ohm.
- S1 - any toggle switch, switch you like. It will be safely hidden in the car.
- A toggle switch is connected to terminal 1, and the toggle switch is connected to a wire that receives power after the ignition switch is turned on.
- Terminal 2 connects to the ignition interruptor wire. When the device is turned on, the anti-theft relay contact will close the breaker wire to ground and thus turn off the engine.
- Terminal 3 is connected to ground.
- It is better to make the device on a breadboard, so it will be easier and faster.
Assembling the device
We solder the wires to the toggle switch and potentiometer and connect them to the circuit.
After the release of VAZ 2110 cars, it was almost immediately found weak spots... A number of features that were overlooked by designers allow hack the vaz quickly, literally in seconds. The designers surprised the world by releasing the top ten and showing how elementary it is to steal a car... Learning eliminate weak points of cars tenth family.
There are many ways to protect your car from theft or burglary, from installing alarms to all sorts of tricks. In this article, we will focus on elimination of factory sores VAZ 2110that allow even a child to break into a car.
Video that shows how you can start a VAZ 2110 without keys:
Burglary protection with ruler or wire
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This image shows how the ruler opens the lock. The leash must be removed. |
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After removing the leash, the car can no longer be opened by this method. |
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This is a plate mount for the standard handle screws. |
Protection against blackout of the car
It is no secret for many car makers that dozens of wires from the battery to the generator are thin enough and passes under the battery shelf in close proximity to the ground. When connecting a car alarm, the positive wire is taken, as a rule, in the passenger compartment (for good, the plus of the alarm should be taken directly from the battery). All this allows a knowledgeable person to crawl under the bumper with his hand without problems and bite this wire. As a result the car is completely de-energized (except for the starter), and with it the alarm goes off.There are two ways to protect the positive wire:
- Move the wire higher and hide it in the headlight range control tube, which runs in the cavity of the upper transverse frame.
- Close free access to the wire
It is best to run the wire through a heat-resistant hose so that there is no heat from the radiator. As a result, bring it to the second wire at the generator.
If you decide not to touch the standard wiring, then you can close the access using a sheet of aluminum. Cut it to size and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the bumper and crankcase guard. In addition to protecting the "Plus" of the battery, it also protects the engine compartment from dirt and water.
Burglary protection of the hood lock
If you remove the plastic radiator grill, you can open the standard hood lock in a cunning way ... Anyone, even an unprepared person with heroic hands, can perform such a hack.
Protect dozens hood lock you can use the casing, the dimensions of which are shown in the photo. The material is 1mm thick tin, which closes the loophole with a casing from below.
This method closes only the lock itself, and the lock cable remains open. Nothing prevents us from sticking our hand into the bumper air duct and pulling on it. Voila, the hood is open again. The advanced hood protection option demonstrates
Domestic manufacturers passenger cars are trying to keep up with modern trends in the automotive industry and use advances in electronics for this. One of the directions of using electronics in a car is anti-theft systems. In this material, the author acquaints readers with standard anti-theft systems - immobilizers, which are equipped with modern cars WHA.
The principle of the immobilizer
At present, cars equipped with an anti-theft device (hereinafter - immobilizer) of the APS-4 and APS-6 types are leaving the assembly line of AvtoVAZ. Most cars (VAZ 2123 " Chevrolet niva", VAZ 11183" Kalina "and all modifications of the VAZ 2110) are equipped with latest model - APS-6.
The immobilizer is a standard anti-theft device and is the electronic unitto prevent unauthorized starting of the engine without using the ignition key. For this, an electronic code key is built into the body of the mechanical ignition key. When you try to start the engine without using the original ignition key, the immobilizer will block the engine from starting by sending certain commands to the engine electronic control unit (ECU).
The car is armed automatically, immediately after the ignition is turned off. Disarming occurs after the ignition is turned on, and the driver does not need to perform additional operations.
Using the example of the APS-6 anti-theft device, we will get acquainted with the principle of its operation.
When the ignition is turned on, the device reads the code from the electronic key built into the head of the mechanical ignition key. After reading and matching the key code with the code stored in the ECU memory, the engine is allowed to start. If the codes do not match, then the engine start is blocked.
2.5 ... 3 seconds after turning on the ignition, the immobilizer turns on self-diagnosis, accompanied by the indication of the warning lamp located on dashboard.
If the engine is started, the warning lamp is constantly on. When unsuccessful attempt starting the engine (if the device is disabled for disarming), after a while the signal lamp will flash at a second interval. At the same time, there is a sound notification by the device of a read error or malfunction.
In the event of a malfunction, the immobilizer can automatically determine its type, simultaneously accompanied by sound indication.
Some common faults are defined as follows:
1 sound signal - there is no reading of codes from the electronic key (as a rule, this malfunction indicates a malfunction of the encoder in the key);
2 sound signals - electronic communication between the immobilizer and the engine control module, which is in a faulty state, is broken;
3 sound signals - the electronic code of the key is absent in the immobilizer memory buffer (this malfunction can be caused when using a "foreign" key);
4 beeps - ECM does not confirm engine start permission. A similar failure can be caused by misuse devices, namely, training the immobilizer with a "foreign" key.
The APS-6 immobilizer consists of a control unit, a communication coil (experts also call it an antenna, it is located directly in the ignition lock), a training and working key and a signal lamp.
Immobilizer A training procedureP S-6
The description of the procedure for training (setting) the immobilizer shows in detail the specific steps for carrying out this work. The reliability of its operation depends on the quality of the work done on setting up the device.
Before starting work on training the immobilizer, you should carefully study the instructions of the vehicle manufacturer.
The learning procedure can be performed when the ECU and the immobilizer are in one of the following states:
The immobilization function is disabled (the controller and the immobilizer are not trained), in this state the engine start is allowed;
The immobilizer function is enabled (the controller and the immobilizer are trained), while the engine can only be started when the ECU is received correct code from the device.
The immobilizer training procedure is carried out in the following cases:
Erasing old and learning new working keys;
Training of working keys after replacing a faulty immobilizer;
Change of access password.
The immobilizer training procedure is performed in the following sequence:
1. Close all the doors of the vehicle, turn on the ignition with the training key for about 6 seconds.
2. Turn off the ignition, control lamp should start flashing on the dashboard, it indicates the correctness of the training procedure. If the control lamp stops blinking, it means that the teaching procedure has been performed incorrectly.
3. While the control lamp is flashing, insert the working key into the lock and turn on the ignition. If learning has been done correctly, this will be confirmed by a beep. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing of the control lamp stops, repeat the immobilizer learning procedure.
Figure: 1. Wiring diagram of the immobilizer APS-6 to the vehicle electrical equipment
4. Switch off the ignition.
5. When teaching the second working key, repeat the teaching procedure, using the second teaching working key to turn on the ignition.
6. 6 seconds after sound signal you should turn on the ignition with the training key, and after 2-3 seconds turn off the ignition. After a while, turn on the ignition, after turning on the device will give three beeps, and the control lamp will stop flashing. After the performed procedure, the immobilizer will give permission to start the engine.
Additional functions of immobilizer AP S-6
Immobilizer APS-6, except standard anti-theft function It has additional functionsimproving the consumer characteristics of the car. Let's give them:
Delay in turning on the interior lighting plafond for several minutes after closing the car doors;
Rear fog lamp off control. The lights are switched on by pressing the button for the rear fog lights switch once;
Warning about the left key in the ignition switch (if the ignition is off);
Warning about the left on side lights (if the ignition is off);
Controlling the operation of power windows with the ignition on and off (if the doors of the vehicle did not open with the ignition key removed. If the door is opened, the control of the power window is automatically disabled).
Non-standard problems arising during the operation of the immobilizer and their solution
Loss of working key
If you lose the working key, you should purchase a new working key, in the memory of which the learning key code is not recorded. For further use of the key, you must complete the learning procedure (see above).
Loss of the learning key
If the learning key is lost, it is impossible to implement the procedure for learning working keys. Vehicle operation with trained working keys can be continued, however, in the event of a malfunction of the controller or the immobilizer itself, both the immobilizer and the controller (ECU) will have to be replaced.
Replacing a faulty immobilizer
After replacing the faulty immobilizer with a new one, the system training procedure should be performed, while the old training and working keys can be used.
In the event of a sudden failure of the immobilizer, the controller will emergency mode allows the engine to start if the function is activated in advance and the password is entered. The activation of the password entry (as a rule, the password consists of 6 digits) is performed by pressing the gas pedal.
On VAZ 1118 "Kalina" cars, replacing the immobilizer can lead to incomplete operation of the standard central locking (this violation can also occur with improper training). In this case, you should completely clear the non-volatile memory of the computer. To do this, disconnect the standard connector from the immobilizer and install a jumper between the connector pins 9 and 18. After the work is completed, the jumper is removed, the connector is connected to the immobilizer and the system is trained.
Replacing a faulty controller (ECU)
When replacing a faulty ECU, you must use a controller with a clean non-volatile memory. In this case, the new ECU will allow the engine to start regardless of the immobilizer. To start the immobilizer, it is necessary to perform the training procedure with a standard training key. It is allowed to replace a faulty controller with another one in which it is already activated anti-theft systemif you use the learning key with which it was trained. Before replacing the controller, you should determine the type and brand of the installed device, the manufacturer equips cars with controllers different manufacturers - Bosch, January, VS.1 and their modifications.
The purpose of the contacts of the connector of the immobilizer APS-6
| Contact No. | Loop wire color | Appointment |
| To the antenna coil, in the ignition |
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| Additional relay wiper power |
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| Not used |
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| Green / white | From the headlight switch |
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| Orange / White | ||
| Permanent plus (from the battery), power supply APS-6 |
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| Permanent plus (from battery) |
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| Ground connection (minus) with the rear fog lamps on |
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| Yellow / black | K-Line (to terminal 7 of the diagnostic block, terminal 8 of the electric power steering control unit) |
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| White / blue | From passenger door limit switches |
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| To the communication coil (antenna) in the ignition lock |
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| Green / black | From the driver's door limit switch |
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| Brown | From side lighting |
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| Red / blue | To terminal 15 of the control unit of the "NORMA" electrical package |
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| Orange / White | To the rear fog lights |
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| Permanent plus, from the battery |
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| Brown / green | K-Line (track 71 of the ECU connector, terminal 3 of the "NORM" block) |
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| Yellow / blue | To the APS operation indicator on the instrument cluster, terminal 8 of the "NORM" electrical package |
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| Orange | Terminal 15 of the ignition switch |
To control the operation of the immobilizer, you can use specialized diagnostic testers operating under the KWP 2000 protocol.
Connection diagram and the purpose of the conclusions of the immobilizer APS-6
In fig. 1 shows the connection diagram of the APS-6 immobilizer to electrical diagram vehicle, and in the table - the purpose of the immobilizer connector contacts.
I would especially like to dwell on the "NORMA" power package control system, which is connected to the APS-6 unit.
System remote control (SDU) electrical package "NORMA" consists of a control unit and a remote control (RC), it is also an ignition switch.
The operation of the CDU system provides locking of door locks, activation of the security mode. The control of the SDU is realized by pressing the corresponding control buttons located on the RC, accompanied by the indication. The remote control is powered by two rechargeable batteries type CR20S2 with a voltage of 1.5 V each.
When using the remote control, you should take into account the following: if the operating mode indicator is absent when pressing the control buttons on the remote control, or the operating mode indicator is dim, replace the batteries. It should also be noted that the CDU device has protection against repeated (within 4 ... 6 seconds) pressing the buttons on the remote control, as a result of which the door locks are locked. For stable operation of the CDU, it is desirable that there are no metal keys or other objects on the remote control key fob.
Figure: 2. Diagram of electrical connections of the APS-6 immobilizer and the "NORMA" power package remote control system on the VAZ 1118 car
In fig. 2 shows a fragment of the electrical equipment diagram of a VAZ 11183 "Kalina" car, which includes an immobilizer and an SDU with the "NORMA" electrical package.
Legend in Fig. 2:
1 - contacts of 33-pin pads of the front harness and the harness of the instrument panel;
2 - contacts of 3-pin blocks of the front harness and the harness of the instrument panel;
3 - light lamp switch reverse;
4 - right direction indicator;
5 - left direction indicator;
6 - contacts of 9-pin pads of the air intake box harness and the instrument panel harness;
7 - engine compartment lamp switch;
8 - controller (ECU);
9 - diagnostic block;
10 - contacts of 16-pin connectors of the ignition system harness and the instrument panel harness;
11 - lighting control module;
12 - sound signal switch;
13 - mounting block;
14 - ignition switch;
15 - control unit APS-6;
16 - immobilizer indicator in the instrument cluster;
17 - contacts of 33-pin pads of the instrument panel harness and rear harness;
18 - power package control unit "NORMA";
19 - right side direction indicator;
20 - right lantern;
21 - left side direction indicator;
22 - left lantern;
23 - contacts of 30-pin connectors of the rear harness and the rear additional harness (right front door);
24 - contacts of 9-pin blocks of the rear harness and the rear additional harness (right back door);
25 - interior lighting plafond;
26 - contacts of 9-pin connectors of the rear harness and the rear additional harness;
27 - heating element rear window;
28 - contacts of 9-pin connectors of the rear harness and the rear additional harness (left rear door);
29 - right front lock;
30 - right rear lock;
31 - door lock switch in the switch block;
32 - gearmotor for trunk lock;
33 - signaling device in the trunk lock;
34 - left rear lock;
35 - contact of 9-pin connectors of the harness of the rear additional (left front door) to the switch block;
36 - contacts of 9-pin blocks of the harness of the rear additional (left front door) to the switch block;
37 - left front lock;
38 - contacts of 30-pin connectors of the rear harness and the rear additional harness (left front door).
Relay mounting block:
K2 - horn relay;
K4 - power window relay;
K6 - additional relay.
To be continued...
Representatives of the "classic" VAZ family, as well as all their modifications, are one of the most frequently encountered cars today. Despite the fact that such machines cannot boast modern design, and stand on secondary market relatively cheap, it is the "classics" that has occupied the leading positions in the ratings of the most stolen cars for many years in a row. Why?
The "classic" enjoys such an unenviable demand among cybercriminals due to its very low passive safety and complete absence active. Even an absolutely unprepared person can open a Zhiguli in a couple of minutes in order to get something out of the passenger compartment or remove the battery. This weak protection is explained by the fact that the car was developed more than half a century ago and since that time, little has changed. However, the situation can be remedied very easily.
Initially, there is the following:
1. Active elements of protection.
In the factory configuration, cars of the "classic" family are not equipped with any elements at all active protection, there is not only a car alarm, but even connectors for its connection, hood and trunk limit switches. That is why installing an alarm on a VAZ is a rather difficult task, since you need to lay the wiring in a new way, drill places for sensors, and place a car alarm unit. Accordingly, the price of installing an alarm on a car domestic production may be slightly higher than for already prepared foreign cars.
2. Passive elements of protection.
The degree of burglary resistance of the door locks and trunk is ridiculous. Doors, by simple manipulations, can be opened with a long ruler, the larvae can be rolled up using ordinary scissors. The hood is just as easy to open from the outside, just bend its edge and pull the cable with a wire hook or even reach the lock through the air intake grille.
The ignition lock and built-in steering wheel lock will also not be able to detain a criminal for more than a dozen seconds. They didn't even hear about the immobilizer and other devices during the years of car design, so they are not, respectively.
Anti-theft protection for classics
A set of necessary measures aimed at protecting the "classics" from theft:
1. Put the car alarm.
As for the choice of the signaling, then the need to buy an expensive security complexthat stands like the floor of a car, no. In addition, the price of installing a car alarm with auto start is sometimes very high. Enough quality two-way car alarm a renowned company with a decent range of the keychain and, most importantly, a high degree of protection against interception. It is recommended to install signals that work in dialogue mode.
It should be noted that due to the fact that the fuel tank flap is not protected by anything and any passer-by can drain the fuel without any problems, it is imperative that you ensure that an additional limit switch is installed on the flap complete with the car alarm.
In addition, it is advisable to choose a siren with a built-in battery, because you can turn off the main battery of the car, which means you can completely de-energize the car alarm, even from the outside, reaching the terminals from the bottom or removing the right headlight.
2. Install the immobilizer.
It is desirable that the immobilizer and the alarm work independently of each other. Even the simplest immobilizer paired with a car alarm will protect the car more reliably than even the most sophisticated alarm.
3. Install the additional bonnet lock.
There is no point in purchasing an expensive universal electromechanical device with a high degree of protection. Currently, many well-known domestic manufacturers produce simple, but at the same time quite reliable, mechanical locks specifically for the classics, they cope with their function perfectly. If desired, such a mechanism that counteracts the opening of the hood can be made independently.
4. Install the transmission blocker.
It is not necessary to purchase electromechanical or contactless blockers; it is quite possible to do with a high-quality mechanical lock.
Upon completion of the work, the following picture is obtained:
- car alarms perform the functions of active protection, triggered when opening doors, gas tank flap, trunk, and, if intruders use brute force, hood. In addition, the siren will work if, for example, criminals manage to get to the battery and remove the terminals.
- the hood lock will not allow thieves to gain access to the elements of the engine compartment in order, for example, to remove the immobilizer locks.
- an immobilizer and a checkpoint blocker will play an important role in preventing criminals from stealing if they manage to pick up the signaling code or otherwise disarm it.
Summing up, it should be noted that it is preferable to install as many different means of protection as possible than to purchase one, even the most functional and reliable, security device.
