RAMK specialists shared their "winter" secrets. For some, these are common truths, but for others, especially novice car enthusiasts, it may be useful. So in order.

How to extend tire life in cold conditions? First of all, you need to monitor the pressure. Low wear on the side of the tread, high - central part wheel tread. Choose a smooth driving style, avoiding harsh braking if possible. Be sure to check the balance of the wheels when changing the tires seasonally.

Discharged battery is one of the most common problems that drivers face in winter. Due to freezing temperatures, the battery is under increased load and requires a higher amperage and a longer engine start period. Because of this, it breaks down faster, so it should be fully charged before the onset of cold weather. But if it nevertheless happened that the battery is dead, and you have to go, you can use the following advice. Turn on the engine for a few seconds before starting the engine. high beam headlights to "wake up" the battery. A chemical process will begin in the battery banks, and the electrolyte will warm up a little. If the car does not start the first time, wait 1-2 minutes and repeat the procedure. Depress the clutch pedal when starting the engine. This will make it easier for the starter to start the engine.

With frozen castles doors will be handled by a special defroster or special grease (WD-40) in combination with lithium grease. After a long drive in cold weather, make it a rule to always cool the car by opening all the doors for a few minutes, so that the temperature in the cabin becomes equal to the ambient temperature. This simple procedure will help prevent the rubber door seals from freezing. And so that from low temperatures they are not cracked, do not forget to lubricate the rubber bands with silicone grease.

Motorists using diesel fuel , they know that it is in the cold thickens... A special tool will help to cope with this -. It will keep the fuel from freezing. Add it to the tank before going to the gas station and the problem will be solved. But at gasoline its subtleties in operation. Condensation can accumulate in the gas tank, which, in turn, does not have a very good effect on the operation of the engine and the fuel system. This can be avoided with a dehumidifier, which must be periodically added before refueling.

Icy do not rush to tear it off the glass. This could damage the rubber brush. Use special glass gel or wait for the windshield to warm up. This will make it easier to peel off the ice. By the way, in no case try to turn on the frozen wipers. The motor that drives them may fail.

If with the arrival of cold weather nozzles and windscreen washer motor stopped working most likely, you simply forgot to fill the windscreen washer tank in time instead of water with an anti-freeze solution, or you got a poor-quality one and froze. The most the best remedy melt the ice - put the car in a warm parking lot for a couple of hours. Vodka or alcohol will also do well with ice. But before pouring them into the washer reservoir, it is better to warm it up a little. Then the defrosting process will go faster.

V winter time it is advisable not to put the car on the handbrake ( parking brake). Otherwise, you risk getting brake pads frozen to the rear discs... Although it is not difficult to solve such a problem. For example, pour an alcohol-based liquid over the pads. But this advice is only acceptable if the car disc brakes installed at the back. At drum brakes these recommendations do not work because the sticking area to the drum is too large. In no case should you try to rip off the pads by towing: there is a possibility of damage to the elements of the brake system.

Quite a simple accessory that would be nice to have in the trunk of every car. On city streets, it is unlikely to come in handy, but on a trip out of town it can be very useful. Chains significantly increase the off-road cross-country ability of the car, reduce drifts by slippery road at low speeds, help to get out of the snowdrifts. Rubber - softer, wear less tires and allow you to move at speeds up to 80 km / h. They are very good at saving from snow porridge and ice on the road. But in difficult places, metal will help. But they are tougher, "eat up" the rubber and limit the speed of the car to 20-40 km / h.

Anti-corrosion treatment of the body - good rust remover... In winter, the roads are sprinkled with chemical reagents, which, getting into microcracks in the body, corrode parts and paint. Therefore, do not be lazy and carry out a special treatment of the machine before winter.

By the way, more recently "Za rulem.RF" conducted a survey on how our readers prepare their car for winter. The most common answer was "I change the wheels and washer for winter".

Surely every driver has a soft-bristled brush and a plastic scraper in his trunk. Both of these items will be useful to the driver even when the car "spends the night" in the garage, because from snow and ice freezing while driving or parking your " iron horse»Nobody is insured. What can we say about hunters and fishermen, whose cars can be outdoors for several days.

It is recommended to clean the ice with a scraper only from glass panes. The hardness of the ice and plastic of the scrapers is much lower than the hardness of glass, and they will not harm it. Scrape off the frost with a scraper only forward, cutting off ice and snow. It is not recommended to move the scraper in the opposite direction, since in reverse side the scraper no longer cuts off the ice, but only drags fragments in front of it, and not only snow and ice, but sand particles that can scratch the glass.

If possible, do not use "artifacts" such as cassette cassettes and CDs for cleaning glass, they have an obtuse angle, and, as in the case of a scraper, they will push hard particles in front of them and scratch the glass.

Be sure to clear the snow from the vehicle before setting off on the road. If you do not remove the snow from the roof, then gradually it will thaw from the heat in the cabin and, when braking, can slide onto the windshield and thereby create emergency... And the snow falling from the roof while your car is moving causes inconvenience to the drivers driving behind.

It is best to remove snow from the car before it melts. It is not recommended to clean frozen snow and ice from the body with a scraper - as you will probably scratch paintwork... You can remove ice either with special chemical compounds, or by driving the car into a warm garage or car wash.

As for the car wash, in winter the car must also be washed. Of course, not as often as in summer, but nevertheless. In cities, various chemical reagents are scattered on the roads, which, together with the dirt, firmly freeze to the body and "corrode" the car parts. Be sure to make sure that the locks and door seals are dried at the sink. Just in case, half an hour after washing, try to open the doors and windows.

If you do not do this soon after the water procedure, then in the cold the doors will freeze so much that it will be problematic to do this in the future. Sometimes to open frozen glass rear doors it takes up to 2-3 hours of continuous heating of the passenger compartment. Necessarily not in the "hobby" of the car, but in the pocket of your jacket or coat, there should be a can of "lock release".

When starting the engine, turn on the blowing of the glass to the minimum mode, and in cars with air conditioning, always set it to auto mode with a temperature of 18-20 C °. Only in such a gentle heating mode windshield so-called "thermal" cracks will never form on it.

A situation that happens to everyone and more than once, especially if you left the car in the cold after washing or after a thaw, a severe frost hit. The following recommendations will prove to be the most effective.

1. Insert a thin tube from any defrosting liquid into the lock (they are now in abundance in many stores) and press the button of the cylinder for five to seven seconds. Wait about a minute. Then try to develop a lock with a key. Most often, the defrosting liquid "does not work immediately" and sometimes you have to spray it 2-3 times and wait up to 5-10 minutes. But my practice shows that this whole procedure does not take more than 10-15 minutes and guarantees the opening of the lock.

2. In the absence of a defrosting liquid, you can use the "old-fashioned" method - to warm the lock with a lighter, setting fire to and stuffing a piece of newspaper rolled into a tube inside. You can also tuck a piece of cotton wool soaked in cologne into the lock. From time to time between "warm-ups" we insert the key into the lock and not too much, so as not to break, we turn the key. Not always, but in half of the cases it is possible to open the lock in this way.

3. The last radical remedy, if you cannot do anything with the lock - you need to get a container of boiling water and pour it on the lock. Well, if there is nowhere to take boiling water, then there is only one thing to do ... to pee on the castle.

How to properly "light" from another car

We will restrict ourselves only to the procedure that is optimal for starting any car and, moreover, will save the car from electrical short-circuits and other troubles.

1. We turn off the engine of the "donor" car.
2. If it is necessary (otherwise you cannot fix the "crocodiles") - remove the terminals from the "donor" battery.
3. We connect one battery to another with thick wires: minus to minus, plus to plus. We make sure that the contact is good. Sometimes, when the engine is started, the battery refuses to work and the alarm is constantly turned on. This happens for the reason that during the parking, the terminals on the battery have oxidized. Therefore, in every case when you expose the terminals, strip them.
4. We smoke in the truest sense of the word for 5 minutes. If the terminals have not been removed from the "donor" battery, you can start the donor engine.
5. We turn off the donor engine, if it was started. You need to "light" only from an idle car, ideally from an autonomous battery.
6. Getting the "sick". If the problem was in a dead battery, the engine will start.
7. Let the "patient" work for 5-10 minutes. Do not touch the wires!
8. We suppress the "patient".
9. Remove the wires.
10. Getting the "sick".
11. We start a "donor".

The battery is charged only on the move when the engine speed exceeds 1000 rpm, and it takes quite a long time (20-40 minutes). Traveling too short and stuck in traffic jams lead to undercharging the battery. In principle, you can also recharge on idle, but then you need to turn off unnecessary consumers of electricity - light, air conditioning, heated mirrors and seats, music.

Recently, special chargers have appeared on store shelves that not only charge the battery, but also allow this charger to be used as a "donor" to start the engine. But if possible, it is better to charge the battery autonomously in the heat from a special device. Charging is of high quality and does not take much time.

Features of cold start of the engine

Let's start with the common truths, namely: what conditions are needed for the engine in order for the cherished process in its cylinders to go safely. The power supply systems, ignition systems and a starter that can stir up a frozen engine are equally important here.

Nutrition the engine consists of: fuel (the most common is gasoline) and an oxidizer (oxygen in the air). If one or the other is too little (or a lot), then combustion will be sluggish or not at all. Ideally, for complete combustion of gasoline, its weight ratio to air should be about 1:15. This is strictly monitored by the appropriate devices in any serviceable blowtorch, gasoline burner, kerosene stove, providing a transparent, bluish, hot flame.

The carburetor, which must prepare a fuel-air mixture for various operating modes, is much more complicated than a primus. But one of its tasks is the same - to keep the ratio of fuel and oxidizer within the "combustible" limits.

When the engine is already warmed up, it's easy. A cold winter start is much more difficult. The frozen air in the carburetor diffusers is even more cooled, and the droplets of gasoline, mixing with this jet, evaporate reluctantly. And for a flash, an optimal mixture is needed - the spark will not ignite a liquid drop of fuel. The matter is complicated by the fact that part of the gasoline vapors, nevertheless formed during carburation, condenses again on the way into the cylinder, in contact with the cold manifold, and the candle again has one air - and, alas, it does not burn.

A way out of this difficult situation was found long ago - any carburetor is equipped with one or another starting device that sharply increases the supply of gasoline so that the saturation of its vapors near the candle becomes sufficient for a flash. The simplest "semi-automatic" seems tricky to many motorists - although in fact any thoughtful schoolchild can learn and debug it.

A much more complicated problem arises in many modern foreign cars on which a temperature sensor is installed, which, at a certain value of the specified minimum temperature, simply will not allow your engine to start. You can fight this ailment in different ways, up to installing a special "board" in the car with a button output to the panel. When you start the engine, you press the button, the circuit is opened and the electronics responsible, including for limiting the start of the engine, stops working. The engine starts, you depress the button, and the electronics of the car are restored again.

The next important system is ignition... Is the power of the spark between the electrodes really so important, if even a weak charge ignites successfully! Indeed, in light conditions (summer, a working engine, a normally working carburetor ...) a super-powerful spark is not needed. Cold start conditions are a different matter!

A powerful, whipping spark heats the droplets of gasoline to ignite them. And the weak is not capable of this. In addition, it is important that the spark between the electrodes passes in time - at the end of the compression stroke, before the piston is at top dead center. This is the so-called ignition timing or ignition timing, for each engine its own, regulated.

The power of the spark often depends on simpler things. First of all - from the voltage in on-board network... And as long as the motor is not running - from the state battery.

We have consistently approached starter... Its task is to turn the engine, and quickly, so that the carburetor has enough vacuum, and the compression in the cylinders warms up each charge well. The slower the crankshaft turns, the more difficult it is to start the engine.

In winter, the starter is especially difficult, and even more so if the engine is thick summer oil... It is so difficult to pump through the lubrication system that it sometimes breaks oil pump, the filter housing is torn. The crankshaft turns barely, the compression in the cylinders is slow and weak, the carburetor does not work well. But that's not all!

The load on the starter is at its maximum - and it strongly "sucks" the battery - so much so that there may be no spark. That is why oil viscosity often plays first fiddle during winter start-up. Have stingy, saved on oil change - troubles are guaranteed.

Now let's move on from theory to practice. As you can conclude from all of the above, the most important thing is the general readiness of the car for frost. "Correct", more liquid and therefore more suitable for winter oil, as well as a good battery. Everything is simple with oil - fill in good oil in proven car services. Mineral or just old machine oil at minus 30 it will surely freeze. Therefore, it is better to change the oil, preferably to "synthetics".

In the washer reservoir, you also need to have an anti-freeze, and high-quality and not diluted. Water, if suddenly someone has remained, freezing, will tear apart the parts of the washer. Unfortunately, most of the "non-freezing" offered in the car markets freeze already at -15 ° C. Knowing this fact, it is easier for the winter to drain all the liquid from the washer and thereby protect yourself from trouble. Agree: few of us use a washer in winter.

Battery. You can help him survive the night or even a few days by warming up the car well "before going to bed" - it is best to travel for at least half an hour without using powerful electrical appliances - heating rear window and seats, servos, fancy music. There is another option to take the battery home, into the warmth. If you do not have a warm garage, and you have to park for a long time, say a week, then it is still worth removing the battery.

Even in normal warm conditions for a month, each battery needs to be charged, what can we say about cold weather, when the discharge process is much faster. Do not forget to clean all the contacts before installing the battery, otherwise your car will either not start, or the alarm will start to "glitch" when you start it.

On cold mornings, the battery needs to be warmed up before starting by turning on the high beam for a few seconds. This measure is quite effective. Advice to those who use a manual transmission: in order not to overload the battery - do not forget to press the clutch pedal during start-up. The neutral position of the lever in the box is not enough: after all, when the pedal is released, the motor will have to rotate both the driven disk and the shafts in the box.

And even after the engine has started, it makes sense to keep your foot on the clutch for a while - if you release it abruptly, the car can stall and, according to the law of meanness, will not start again. It is not necessary to turn the starter for too long - it is better to let the battery rest and then repeat the operation.

If, nevertheless, you cannot get your iron horse, then in such cases we recall the existence of special devices that are popularly called - "Wires for lighting"... They are designed to supply a large starting current to the terminals of a discharged battery from a donor car.

But only wires with a sufficiently large cross-section are capable of transmitting this current. For example, to ensure cranking of a cold engine with a volume of about 1.6 liters, the cross-sectional area of ​​such a wire must be at least 16 mm ?, which corresponds to a diameter of 4.5 mm.

Some firms produce wires in rubber insulation, which dulls at low temperatures and does not allow the wires to bend. In the best samples, the insulation is made of a soft material, most often it is silicone, which does not lose its properties in the cold.

The ends of the wires are usually sealed in powerful crocodile clips and differ in color: as a rule, the positive wire is red, the negative wire is black. The length of the wires rarely exceeds 2-3 meters, so cars should be placed as close to each other as possible. And take into account the location of the batteries.

I want to warn you: many cars with a fairly complex electronic support launch systems - in other words, with computers - are not recommended to be launched in this way. Their rectifier bridges and computers can die in the process. What the instructions usually say quite definitely. Therefore, before you "light up" - look at the "manual"!

Having opened the hoods, first fix the tip of the “positive” wire on the “+” terminal of the suffering car and only then connect the second clamp of the same wire to the “+” terminal of the battery of the donor car. The clamps must be secured tightly and securely. After that, connect the black wire in the same sequence.

After making sure that the wires are fixed correctly and firmly, wait a couple of minutes and turn on the ignition. Do not turn on the ignition and start the engine of the donor car to avoid damaging it. electronic systems... After starting the engine and the appearance of signs of its stable operation at idle speed, the wires can be disconnected: first "negative", then "positive".

Often the car will not start due to bad or dirty spark plugs... They need to be checked, cleaned of carbon deposits and, if necessary, changed.

In case of frost, a large number of special fuel additives are sold in car dealerships - for example, “ fast start", Which are poured into the carburetor and fuel system for better engine starting.

It is impossible to use a starter, and it is pointless to twist for more than 20 seconds. If after three such attempts the car does not come to life, you need to wait a few minutes, then repeat the series. When it was not possible to start the engine from three to five attempts and it does not give any hope for this, it is worth leaving the car alone until it warms up or calling a specialist to find the cause of the sabotage of technology.

In the cold, it is better not to put the car on the handbrake so that the pads do not freeze. It's easier to just put the car in gear. Owners diesel cars it is generally not recommended to use the car in severe cold weather, if she spends the night on the street or in an unheated garage. The chances of starting a diesel engine at minus 30 are few.

In order not to dig with frozen door locks, it is better to pour special defrosting machines into the "larvae" in advance. I do not advise pouring boiling water over the castle - the water will cool down, freeze, and the next time it will be possible to open the car only in spring.

One of the controversial questions is whether it is worth warming up the car, if, for example, it is completely serviceable and can go immediately after starting and not stall. Definitely: it is worth getting under way only after the interior heater begins to produce air that is noticeably warm to the hands. And, of course, do not turn the gas, as the instructions advise.

Remember: one problematic cold start of the engine in severe frost in terms of the degree of damage caused to the car is equal to 300-500 km of run. And if the trip is not urgent, then it is better to postpone it for later.

How to start the engine in frost

There are quite a few reasons for engine failure to start: these are flooded candles, and bad gasoline, and sensors that prevent the engine from starting when the temperature drops below a certain degree (usually down to -25C °). But most often it happens that the entire engine start chain is simply frozen.

This happens especially often when, after a thaw, the temperature drops sharply and the sensors and mechanisms are covered with an ice film, the mixture required for its composition does not form, and the nozzles simply “pour” without spraying with a torch. To prevent this, it is advisable to warm up the car in such temperature drops every two hours and smoothly enter your engine into operation at low temperatures.

But since the problem of starting the engine in frost arose, we will not reinvent the wheel - the algorithm has long been invented and tested.

1. We check that all electrical appliances are turned off: fan, stove, headlights, radio tape recorder, air conditioner, heated rear window.
2. Before trying to start, turn on the high or low beam for literally five to ten seconds. This is enough to warm up the battery.
3. We squeeze the clutch and put the gearshift lever in neutral (we recommend to "automatic machines" to move the selector from position P to position N) and turn on the ignition. As soon as the fuel pump runs out (it takes a few seconds), you can turn on the starter - but not more than for 10-15 seconds.
4. An unsuccessful attempt can be repeated after one or two minutes. This pause is needed so that the gasoline that has flooded the candle wells evaporates. If the car does not start on the third attempt, then there is no point in further raping the engine and draining the battery. There are quite a few reasons for refusing to start, but the most reliable solution to the problem: if there is an opportunity to wait for warming when the air temperature drops to at least -10C ° or tow the car to a warm garage.
5. If the engine is alive, do not rush to release the clutch. The masters advise to do this smoothly, observing the revolutions. It is not necessary to "help" the sneezing motor with a gas filling, you can fill in the candles.

You can apply a few more more extreme ways to start the engine in cold weather. For those who are not afraid of auto chemistry, aerosol "start-up facilitators" will come in handy. An essential aerosol is injected into the air intake and facilitates the ignition of the mixture.

There is another radical remedy that is used in extreme cases. Put a tightly wet rag on the manifold and around the carburetor and slowly spill the entire rag with boiling water. Two liters of boiling water should be enough for this procedure.

If nothing helps at all, then it remains to call on the announcement for the help of "specialists" who, with the help of heat guns or gas burners, will warm your car. They can also recharge your battery. But not everyone can afford such a challenge, and if the problem of a cold start arises from time to time, you can worry in advance and buy yourself a heat gun or a gas infrared burner. Heat guns are more suitable for heating machines indoors and when electricity is available.

Gas infrared emitters are more economical than electric ones due to their lower cost natural gas(average consumption 300 ml. per hour of work). They can be used in any room and in any frost. The only drawback is that gas can burn poorly at temperatures below -30 ºС.

Thermal infrared radiation penetrates the air almost unhindered. It becomes effective only when heat rays hit solid bodies. The oil in the crankcase warms up better and safer than using a blowtorch, which, in fact, simply boils the oil. Compared to heat guns, there is no air movement, which means clouds of dust and debris.

The gas burner is installed under the crankcase of the vehicle. The engine is covered with blankets and other warm rags from above. If it happens on the street, then you need to close the machine with cellophane or some other cover from below along the perimeter and exclude the blowing out of heat from the burner.

Warming up usually takes 15-30 (maximum) minutes. By the way, a gas burner will come in handy for fishing both in winter in a tent and in autumn and summer on cold nights. You can also cook food on it. In all senses, a convenient and fairly inexpensive thing.

Konstantin Fadeev

Even venerable drivers are always extremely careful when driving in winter. And they always drive slowly, turn on the light, and ... In general, read on.

1. Relax

If you find yourself in difficult road conditions while driving, then the most important thing is to stay calm and not panic. If you get very nervous, it can affect your reaction, and not for the better.

2. Slow down

If the weather conditions worsen, reduce the speed by 2 times. We advise you not to do this abruptly, because this increases the risk of skidding and loss of traction.

3. Be careful

Your actions on the winter road must be completely controlled and deliberate. Remember that fast acceleration, hard braking and sharp turns of the steering wheel can cause loss of control and skidding of the vehicle.

Maintain an optimal low speed while driving. Keep the distance to other cars so that there is enough for emergency braking... All movements must be smooth and careful.

4. Let there be light

In bad weather, be sure to turn on the low beam headlights. This will help other drivers see your vehicle. It will not be superfluous to include parking lights.

5. Use light signals

Many truckers around the world use a special lane-to-lane technique when driving on the highway. In dry or rainy weather in autumn, summer and spring, before changing lanes, the driver of the truck turns on the turn signal and rebuilds only after the turn signal blinks 3 times. But in winter weather they are rebuilt after the turn signal flashes 4-5 times. Follow their example.

6. Be careful on slippery roads

Pay attention to water under the wheels of other vehicles when driving in cold weather. If there is a lot of splashes on the road, then it is very wet. In this case, you need to take additional precautions.

The fact is that at low temperatures, snow and ice melted from wheels or from a reagent begins to freeze quickly, turning the road into a skating rink. If you see that the road is wet, but there is practically no spray, then be even more careful, since such a surface is the most dangerous. No splash on wet road may indicate that most of the water has frozen and covered the asphalt with a thin layer of ice.

7. Watch out for truckers

If the weather starts to turn bad and trucks slowed down, you have to do the same. If you begin to notice that many drivers of heavy vehicles are trying to pull over to the side of the road, we advise you to do the same in bad weather.

In no case does this advice recommend driving like truckers. But remember: heavy trucks have more ground clearance, larger wheels and tires, greater overall weight, and better grip with the road. The lower the weight of the car, the easier it is to lose control of control and get off the track.

Preparing for winter comes down to a few simple manipulations that are easy to remember and even easier to complete.

Book counters are littered with numerous brochures with a wide variety of tips for aspiring car enthusiasts. You are offered to make a lot of different manipulations with your car - from checking brake pads, candles, electrical wiring to the quality of anti-corrosion coating, etc. Sometimes these tips are so difficult to follow that it seems easier to buy a new car.

Our top tip: don't be afraid of winter! Here are five simple tips... This is the alphabet. Without her - nowhere.

Don't skimp on rubber

Replacing summer tires with winter ones is an axiom. Do not listen to "experts" who talk about how the asphalt in the city is cleaned so that the winters are warm, and the thorns slide on the wet road. These experts in accident case they won't treat you and they won't give you money for repairs.

The first snow has already fallen in most of Russia. But he melted. After the first snowball for about two weeks (in central Russia), you can still ride on summer tires... And they should be changed when the thermometer steadily dropped below + 4 degrees.

The secret is as follows. Summer tire- tough. From the persistent cold, it becomes even tougher. Consequently, its ability to keep the road in cold weather sharply (very sharply!) Decreases. She, figuratively speaking, "dubs".

Winter - on the contrary. Stable above zero temperatures and friction on the road make it "smudge". Rolling resistance rises sharply, gas mileage increases accordingly.

Why is winter studded tires more convenient for motorists, especially beginners, than just winter and non-studded tires? The answer is simple: no matter how well the roads are cleaned, at turns, on bridges, and just on a road open to all winds, tongues (tongues) of ice can form. And here the thorns will serve as help. The first such incident will push back into the past all the debate about whether they slip on a wet road or not.

Do not think whether you lost or did not lose with the time of changing shoes, do not look at your new tires - how many spikes, they say, have already been lost. Apart from unnecessary doubts and nerves, this will give nothing.

How to deal with oil

The average motorist, who winds 10-15 thousand kilometers a year, changes the oil in the engine together with the filter twice: on the eve of summer and on the eve of winter.

How not to get lost in oil markings?

Let's take a look at what, for example, the designation SAE 10W-40 for engine oils says.

The designation of the viscosity class "W" gives us information about the winter use of the oil (W is the initial letter of the English word WINTER - winter).

The smaller the number in front of the letter W (in this case, the number 10), the lower the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures. It is thanks to this factor that the cold start of the engine is facilitated. The oil spreads faster through the engine, preventing wear.

The number after the W denotes the oil's ability to provide reliable engine lubrication in high temperature conditions. The higher the number (in this case, 40), the higher the viscosity of the oil at high temperatures and the more reliable the engine lubrication in summer heat.

The presence of only one of the considered parameters in the designation of the viscosity class indicates the seasonality of the oil (for example: SAE 10W - seasonal winter oil, SAE 40 - seasonal seasonal oil). The presence in the designation of two classes at once (as in our example - SAE 10W-40) indicates the all-season oil.

Reliable battery

Too frugal car enthusiasts don't like buying new battery... The usual picture - on a winter evening, no, no, and yes, another thrifty one will pass by, puffing under the weight of the battery removed for the night. At home, he will put it on overnight charging, in the morning he will drag it back - and, burning his fingers with frost, will connect the terminals.

For ordinary car owners, especially women, this procedure is overwhelming. Therefore, consider what will be cheaper in the end: the daily carrying of the battery, the purchase of a charger, the danger of not getting too far from home than buying a normal battery.

Stretch your memory and remember how many years you haven't changed your battery? If the service life has reached four years, do not be stingy and go to the store.

In order not to get confused in the questions that the seller will ask you, grab the vehicle registration certificate to the store (you keep it next to the license). It contains all the necessary data for the seller.

Tinsmith's Day

On a winter road, the danger is not only those who continue to drive hard summer tires, but also those who did not have time to adapt to new road conditions... Especially those who got the rights in the summer and this is his first winter. The "kettle" by inertia will drive the car as it used to. He doesn't know anything else.

Remember: when high speed on a slippery road, even the most sophisticated studded tire will not save.

Try to make time for a simple workout.

On a clear, cold day, find a flat area covered with ice or ice. Try to accelerate a little and sharply, "to the floor", brake. Several of these exercises will help you feel the reaction of the car and understand why (especially in winter!) You cannot brake at speed with the clutch depressed, enter with the clutch depressed into a turn, or roll up to an intersection in neutral.

The best thing: do not go out into the streets for at least two days at the first icy weather. Let other road users get used to the ice. Because the first days of winter ice on the roads are the real opening of the season. Simply put, "tinsmith's day".

You, of course, remember this, but ...

Gasoline and cold

• If the instruction manual of your car allows you to use gasoline with octane number below 98, do not refuel in severe frosts with 98-m gasoline. Otherwise it will be more difficult to start the car.
• If there is a need for severe frosts to drive the car overnight or for several nights in a heated garage, fill the gas tank to capacity. The more air in the tank, the more water vapor it contains. Ice microcrystals settle in the fuel, accumulate with all sorts of nasty things on the bottom, and then "ruin" the fuel pump.
• Replace the fabric floor mats with rubber ones.
• In cold weather, warm up the engine before each ride.
• To reduce the load on the battery in winter, turn on the high beam for 10 seconds before turning the ignition key.
• Check the wipers before you travel. If frozen, carefully separate them from the glass.

What should be in the "winter" trunk?

• Regular broom. It is much more convenient and faster for them to sweep snow from the car than with modern expensive brushes. It is cheaper and more practical.
• Special wires will not interfere in order to "light" from someone else's battery on occasion (if your battery is already close to the "critical" age).
• A pair of old rubber rugs. They will help you to get under way in full ice, if you put them under the skidding wheels.
• If you have to go out of town, "in the snow" - a sapper shovel (I generally drive a shovel with a shortened handle) - this is a true lifesaver.
• Towing cable (however, it is better to "register" it in the trunk forever).

The theme of winter is very common among motorists - any battery is sensitive to the ambient temperature.

With prolonged use of the battery in frosty conditions, it can, forcing the driver to look for non-standard ways to start the motor. In the worst cases, the battery breaks down, which leads to high costs for car repairs.

Therefore, every driver should know how to prepare the battery for the winter, so as not to face very serious troubles later. It concerns how winter operation battery and its storage when not in use.

Winter operation

The main rule for using the battery in severe frosts is the health of the car's electrical system. Before the onset of cold weather, be sure to check the integrity of the wiring - in particular, you will be interested in the wires laid between the generator, battery and starter.

However, breakdowns in other places cannot be ignored, since even a slight leakage of electricity can lead to a complete discharge of the battery in winter period... Also, caring for the battery in winter includes periodic cleaning of the terminals from oxides and dirt accumulated on them. They should be sanded with fine-grained emery paper and then covered with a thin layer of lithol or other electrically conductive grease.

Close attention should be paid to the generator - the output voltage should be measured to determine if it can be used in winter. Normal voltage generated car generator, should reach 14.5 V, although 13.8 V is considered the lowest possible level.

Video how to measure voltage on a generator:

If this figure is lower, you should wait for damage to the battery, and if it is lower, the battery simply will not be able to. Also check the tension of the alternator belt, as slippage can cause insufficient charging in winter. Finally, inspect appearance node - traces of overheating, manifested in the form of spots on the metal, indicate that the generator will soon require serious repair.

You also need to check how the battery complies with the regulatory requirements. Many motorists ask, what should be the density in the battery in winter? Experts say that 1.27 is the norm for any climatic conditions, although in summer small deviations from it are allowed.

Electrolyte density table, depending on the ambient air temperature

If the results of your measurements show a slightly lower density, you should add electrolyte, recharge the battery, and then re-check after a few days of intensive use of the car. If it is impossible to restore normative indicators the batteries will have to be replaced.

In some cases, preparing the battery for winter involves insulating it - this method is used if the temperature can drop below -40 degrees. Use only non-flammable material that does not conduct current and will not cause short circuits.

The best option is fiberglass, formed in the form of thin mats - an additional shell can be made from it, which protects the battery from the influence of temperature fluctuations. Care should be taken to keep the battery terminals open and accessible for inspection or maintenance at any time.

If you succeed in the battery for the winter, you need to use the gentle mode of operation of the vehicle's electrical system in the future. Try not to turn on any devices immediately after starting to reduce the load on the battery.

Switch on electrical consumers after warming up the engine

Even if the weather will not contribute to a comfortable stay in the car, try not to turn on the heater fan, heated rear window and other devices in the first 3-5 minutes. To quickly warm up the engine and interior, set heater and preheater that will help to cope with a similar task without creating a significant load on the vehicle's electrical system.

Choosing a battery for the winter

If you cannot restore your battery in any way, you will have to go to a car dealer for a new battery. First of all, pay attention to the climatic class of the battery, which is indicated by the manufacturer in the form of a range of permissible temperatures.

Do not be tempted by the names "Arctic" and the words "Arctic" - they do not need to comply with any regulations to apply them to the battery, so they do not have a strictly defined meaning. If the temperature in your area falls below the permissible level for a particular battery, be sure that it will cause a lot of problems during winter operation of the car.

To properly prepare the battery for the winter, you will need to perform a lot of actions - however, only if you have chosen the serviced model.

The best option for winter operation would be maintenance-free gel battery, since it will be enough to recharge it once: both for continuous use and for storage.

The capacity of such a battery for a passenger car should exceed 60 Ah if the car is in a temperate climate, and 80 Ah for northern latitudes. The starting current of the battery must be at least 420 A according to the EN test standard or 250 A according to the DIN cycle.

Winter storage

If you do not plan to use the car during the cold season, a completely justified question arises - should you remove the battery for the winter? Maintenance-free batteries with a one-piece body and small ventilation holes are almost not exposed to cold weather, so during garage storage they can definitely be left in the car without the risk of irreparable damage.

However, serviced and low-maintenance batteries should be removed for the winter in order to store them in a warm room. If, in your climatic region, frosts with temperatures less than -20 degrees continue for more than 4 weeks, the battery must be removed, regardless of its type. Otherwise, it will be enough to simply unscrew the positive terminal clamps to flip it open.

Since the density of the battery should be the same in winter and summer, it is advisable to top up the battery with electrolyte, if possible, and recharge it before storage. If you bring your device home, you will need to leave it in a well-ventilated area.

The temperature in it should not be more than 25 degrees - that is why it is extremely undesirable to leave the battery near the battery and various heating devices. The battery must be protected against liquid ingress - of course, it must not be left in the bathroom. The optimal place for winter storage of the battery in the apartment will be closed balcony or a loggia, and in a private house there is a glazed terrace or a veranda.

Proper storage of the battery during the winter requires it and recharging as needed. To do this, every two weeks it is necessary to connect it to an electronic charger using a special program for gentle charge recovery at low amperage.

However, most modern batteries will last for a long time, provided you store them upright. Therefore, removing a high-quality maintenance-free battery from the car, you can recharge it only twice - at the beginning and at the end of the cold season.

After the end of the heat, it will be necessary to monitor the performance of the battery for the first two weeks, since during this period the chances of its breakdown are greatest.

Battery charging video tips:

If you don't know if you need to charge the battery before winter, you can treat it with boric acid, which will allow you to put the battery in storage without unnecessary hassle. First, you need to completely fill the electrolyte into the jars, setting the required liquid level, and then fully charge the battery.

At the next stage, the electrolyte is drained very slowly, after which the procedure is repeated twice. When the inside of the battery is flushed, you can fill the cans with a 5% boric acid solution in distilled water. In this form, the battery is stored until the end of the conservation period.

When you decide to use the car again, the boric acid must be drained very slowly, and then immediately filled with electrolyte, without performing additional rinsing. It remains only to wait about an hour and a half and check the battery parameters, which will allow you to set the density level and the residual charge.

If necessary, the battery should be charged and then installed in the vehicle for normal use. If you intend to store the battery separately from the car during the winter, you will also need to observe the following rules:

• If you need to refill the battery, use a store-bought battery electrolyte or distilled water. Plain tap water or even filtered water and acid can destroy the battery;
• With a high level of humidity in the house, treat the battery terminals with lithol, and then cover with special caps or wrap them with oiled paper;
• Immediately after installing the battery in the car, observe the gentle mode of its operation - the car should run for about half an hour at idle, after which, during the day, try to use less electrical appliances;
• If the battery has lost some of its properties after conservation, try refilling and recharging it. However, the best way would be to go to a specialized service station, where the master will perform professional diagnostics battery;
• If the bottom of the cans shows a deposit from crumbling electrodes, you should consider purchasing a new battery as soon as possible.

Electrical engineering

By observing the above rules, you will protect your car's battery from damage during the cold season. However, it is worth remembering that an initially faulty battery is unlikely to be able to overwinter, retaining all its properties - therefore, it is advisable to diagnose it at a service station at the beginning of autumn in order to have a margin of time.

Battery diagnostics at service stations

If you purchased new car in the warm season, pay attention to the parameters of its battery - it is quite possible that it will be easier to replace it than to deal with numerous troubles in winter.

In addition, it is advisable to stock up on electronic charger, which is able to automatically determine the parameters of the battery and select the optimal program for its recharging. It will be very useful both for winter use of the battery and for storing it at home.