The winter period has always been difficult for car owners. Significant troubles are caused by a difficult road situation, which is often changing and quite dangerous. In addition, the car itself creates problems. Low temperatures do not contribute to easy starting and stable operation of both the engine and the rest component parts auto.
Everything technical fluids and lubricants from low temperatures solidify and cease to be fluid, see what kind of oil you can fill in the winter... Because of this, the resistance to rotation in the nodes and mechanisms increases significantly and the starter does not just untwist, but even crank crankshaft very hard. And if we also add wear and tear, violation of system adjustments, the exhausted resource of some elements, then the chances of starting the power plant when low temperatures greatly decrease. Still, winter is not a reason to put your car in the garage until spring. With the right actions and following certain recommendations, starting the motor is quite possible.
And yet, a car is a convenient and comfortable means of transportation, so many cannot refuse to operate a car even in severe frosts.
Next, consider how to start a VAZ in winter. These cars were chosen because they are among the most common, and also because of the power system - some of them are equipped with carburetor system, but there are also injection versions. That is, these cars use the two most common power systems in our country.
Preparing a car for the winter period
So, the preparation of the car begins even before the cold weather begins. Small preparatory work make it easier to start power plant this car at low temperatures.
The first thing to take care of is the battery. Until frost has come, you need to carry out the whole range of maintenance work with it - check the density of the electrolyte, if necessary, bring it to the desired level. Also charge it fully.
If the motor little has practically exhausted its resource, then you should not wait for this to happen, but also replace it with a warm one. It is strongly discouraged to use mineral oil... If in summer it is still suitable for use, then in winter this little can lead to engine breakdown. At low temperatures, it thickens strongly and when the engine starts, there is a possibility that the thick little will simply squeeze out the crankshaft oil seals.
We'll have to work on the power supply system as well. No matter which of the systems is used at the VAZ, it will be necessary to flush the system, replace the fuel and air filters.
It will not be superfluous to check the valve adjustment and the ignition system. The spark plugs should be carefully inspected and cleaned, and the gap adjusted on them. It will not be superfluous to purchase a new set of candles "in reserve", and they must be constantly in the car.
The cooling system of the car is also worth looking at. If it is filled with "Tosol", which has been used for several years, then it is better to replace it with a new one.
You can of course purchase preheater by car, but its cost is significant and not everyone can afford it, so we will do without them.
Some craftsmen "manage" to install TENA, operating from the 220 network, in a pallet with oil. The idea is good, but only if it is possible to put the car next to the house in order to stretch the wiring.
You can also equip the car with a system that will automatically start the engine at regular intervals to warm up. But it is better not to rely on such a system. First, she will start the motor and keep it on Idling, which will not be enough to recharge the battery and in the end the system will simply plant it. Secondly, such a system is not suitable for a carburetor car.
Starting the engine with a carburetor system
Consider how to start a VAZ-2101, 2106, 2104, 2109 in severe frost(in general, carburetor models) with all the nuances and "pitfalls" that may appear during the start-up process.
An important condition for a successful launch is good condition battery. Therefore, if it is assumed that there will be significant frost at night, and the car will be needed in the morning, then it is better to remove the battery from the car and take it to a heated room. If this is not possible, then at least remove the "negative" terminal from it at night, this will exclude the discharge of the battery.
- Install battery into place and connect it to on-board network... First, you need to make sure that all consumers are turned off. Before starting the motor and reaching stable operation, it is not recommended to turn on any consumers at all;
- If the battery remained in the car for the night, then before turning on the starter, it must be "overclocked". To do this, you need to "blink" several times high beam; (the created load will lead to the occurrence of reactions in the battery due to which the internal resistance will decrease, and the starting currents will be higher. We also turn off all third-party consumers;)
- Then squeeze the clutch and switch gears, this will slightly "accelerate" the oil in the box, in the future it will not load the engine so much;
- Press the accelerator pedal 1-2 times to inject gasoline into the intake manifold;
- Carburetor cars are equipped with a suction ( manual control throttle), shutting off the air supply to the carburetor, making the mixture rich. Therefore, before starting, the suction must be completely pulled out;
- Immediately before engaging the starter, depress the clutch and hold it in this position. The gearbox disconnected from the engine will not create additional force when starting;
- After that, start the launch directly. But since the starter consumes a significant amount of energy, its operation should not be long. Each attempt to start the engine must be accompanied by no more than 30 seconds of starter operation;
- Even if flashes appeared during the starting process and the engine slowly began to seize, but the starter was already running for 30 seconds, it is better to interrupt the start;
- In order for the battery to restore its charge after 30 seconds of starter operation, it will take at least two minutes between attempts;
- If in the process of starting the engine does not show any signs of "life" at all, then you can press the gas pedal a couple of times to increase the supply of gasoline to the cylinders. But do not abuse it, otherwise the candles will flood;
- If at the beginning of the attempts there were flashes in the cylinders, but then disappeared, it means that the candles were flooded and they need to be replaced with previously prepared ones, and then start again. But it is not worth it to "drive" the battery for too long, bringing it to full discharge. After 4-5 start attempts, it is better to stop.
- You can, of course, heat the oil pan to make it less viscous. But it is better not to use the old "old-fashioned" method of heating with a blowtorch, and generally not to use an open flame for this. You can try to warm up the pallet with heating elements, but you need to use them very carefully;
- If it is possible to start the engine, you should not immediately increase the speed by pressing the accelerator. Until the engine reaches a stable speed, the impact on the gas pedal can lead to overflow of gasoline and engine stop;
- Only after the engine has gained speed, and they will be increased with an extended suction, release the clutch pedal, but not abruptly, but smoothly, so that the box does not stop the engine with its resistance;
If it was not possible to start the engine on the third attempt, then the start should be stopped, since there is a high probability that the candles are flooded and the cylinders need to be purged.
Purging is very simple: We unscrew the candles and wipe them dry with a rag. If there is additional kit candles, then you can put it in place of the flooded ones. At the same time, unscrewing the candles, air is launched into the cylinders, which ensures drying. After cleaning or replacing the candles, we try to start;
Another important nuance. If it was possible to start the power plant, do not rush to release the clutch pedal. It is necessary to give time for the engine to stabilize the speed at least a little, and only after that we release the clutch. And we do it smoothly, since the transmission with solidified lubricant will create a fairly strong load on the motor. Abruptly releasing the clutch can kill the engine and no one can guarantee that the battery will be able to start it again.
It will be possible to turn on the lighting and heating devices only after a couple of minutes of stable operation of the motor. The suction will need to be pushed in as the engine warms up. Ultimately, the suction should be retracted completely, and the engine should idle stably;
Note that this general recommendations on starting the engine in 30-degree frost. But here it is worth noting that each car, and depending on its technical condition and features, its own "recipe" for a successful launch. For example, in some cars, the engine can only be started by covering the suction by 2/3 and no more, in others - only with a fully closed damper and half depressed the gas pedal. And these nuances can be very different, sometimes even ridiculous, but without them the car cannot be started. The driver learns all these features already during operation, after several successful starts of the power plant in severe frosts.
Launch of VAZ injection models in severe frost
Let's move on to injection versions. For these cars, the driver's action algorithm is somewhat different for starting the engine, although at some points it overlaps with the carburetor versions.
So, let's look at how to start a VAZ-2107,21099, 2110.2112, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Granta injector in winter in severe frost:
- We "warm up" the battery. We turn off all third-party electricity consumers;
- We turn on the ignition and give a little time for the fuel pump to pump the system with fuel, as well as for the ECU to collect all the data from the sensors;
- We squeeze the clutch and try to start the engine without touching the gas pedal at all;
- If the first attempt failed, we give time to restore the charge and try to start again;
- If the engine starts, but it works with severe interruptions (you can hear that it is troit and some cylinders are not functioning), you can slightly press the gas pedal to increase the fuel supply;
- In the case when the 3rd attempt was unsuccessful, we purge the cylinders. In injection cars, it is much easier than on carburetor cars, since they have a purge mode. It is done like this: we fully squeeze the gas pedal (all the way), while the mode we need turns on (the ECU turns off the nozzles) and turn on the starter for 8-10 seconds. In this mode, only air will be supplied to the cylinders, which will dry the candles;
- After purging, we wait until the charge is restored and again try to start the engine;
Immediately after starting, the engine will run at increased revs... For the first couple of minutes of its operation, it is not advisable to turn on the electrical equipment, and the movement can be started only after reducing the speed to the idle level.
This is an algorithm of actions to start the car on your own. But what if, as a result of attempts, the battery is discharged and cannot turn the starter? And this is where the means prepared in advance come to the rescue - start cables and a cable.
Alternative methods
Further information on how to start a Zhiguli in severe frost, so to speak, emergency mode... In both cases, you need a donor car, one that could start. If there is one and his driver agreed to help, then you can start trying to start.
First, let us consider how to properly start the car in frosty conditions using “lighting”. And here the sequence of actions also depends on the power system used. And one more nuance - the donor car must be well warmed up so that it can easily start from a discharged battery.
Now about how to start a Zhiguli in winter with a carburetor system:
- We adjust the donor to our car, turn off and turn off all electricity consumers.
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery on the patient car. If you connect two batteries together, then the discharged one will pull the charge over itself, due to which the likelihood of starting a cold motor will decrease. We also check the checkpoint ("neutral" must be installed);
- We take start cables and connect to the donor battery. At the same time, it is important not to make a "overlap". To prevent this from happening, first connect the "plus" cable to the terminals of both batteries. We connect the "minus" cable to the corresponding terminal on the donor's battery, and on the car-patient we massage it onto the body;
- We make attempts to launch. If it was not possible to start the engine 3-4 times, disconnect the wires and start the donor car for 5-7 minutes so that it recharges the battery from the generator. After that, we try to start up again. If the second run is unsuccessful, attempts can be stopped, since the reason for the unwillingness to start does not lie in the severe freezing of the motor, but in the occurrence of some kind of malfunction;
- In case of a successful start, we wait until the engine speed stabilizes at least a little, and then disconnect the cables. First, we disconnect the "plus" cable (preferably at the same time on the donor and the patient), then - the "minus" wire, and only after that we put the terminal removed at the beginning of the procedures on the battery.
Now about how to start a VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Grant, Priora (injector) in severe frost by means of "lighting". In general, the algorithm of actions is the same as on the carburetor versions, but there is one significant nuance - it is impossible to disconnect the battery from the on-board network on a patient car. Therefore, we will have to hope that the donor's battery, even after part of the charge has given up to the patient's battery, will still be able to start the engine.
We start from the pusher
And finally, let's consider how to start a Zhiguli in winter "from a pusher". The winding process is simple, but its execution requires a certain skill. After all, the windows on the car are frozen, which means that visibility is reduced, and the road is usually slippery, and the towing vehicle is not at such a great distance. In general, not everything is so easy.
So, there is a cable and a driver with a car who agreed to act as a tractor. Next, we act like this:
- We agree with the driver of the tractor vehicle the route and conditional signals "Let's go" and "Stop" (they will have to be given to the driver of the towed car and it may be horn beeps or blinking of headlights);
- We adjust the vehicle to the tractor and, by means of a cable, we attach the car to it, which needs to be started;
- The driver of the towed car, before starting the movement, turns on the 3rd gear, squeezes and energizes the on-board network of the car (turns on the ignition);
- Next, we give a signal to start the movement. After the cars pick up a speed of 20-30 km / h, you can try to start and for this we release the clutch pedal. As soon as the engine starts, we squeeze the clutch again, give a signal to stop and carefully brake so as not to collide with the towing vehicle;
- If, after releasing the clutch, the wheels do not start to rotate (they just slide on the icy surface), squeeze the clutch and switch to more top gear and release the pedal again, trying to start the car;
If, after a couple of attempts, starting the motor from the "pusher" failed, you should stop them and look for the cause of the failure (it may be some kind of malfunction or failure of some element - a sensor, candles, etc.).
The technology of starting the power plant of a car "from a pusher" is the same for carburetor and injection cars. But it can only be used with machines that have installed mechanical box gear. It is strictly forbidden to start VAZ cars equipped with an automatic transmission with the help of a tug.
Video - how to start a Vaz in severe frost
The debate about the need to warm up the engine is over. In the first place we have ecology, so all manufacturers recommend to warm up the engine in motion at low and medium speeds and low gears. What happens if you violate these recommendations? At low loads, engine wear is not great, there will be no particular effect on the resource. And in terms of fuel costs, it is more profitable - in motion, the warm-up time is reduced. Writing instructions is good, only traffic flow, often, sets its own conditions! And it is not always possible to drive 30-40 km / h without collecting a "traffic jam". What happens if you immediately accelerate to 90 km / h? Why is it so important not to overload a cold engine?
Here's an example. The road home from work - the engine was started and drove 300 m along the lanes, and then drove onto the highway, where the flow rate is 90, there are many trucks, the road is on the rise. If you go slowly, the "tail" immediately gathers, you have to "immerse" and go like everyone else. And so every working day. During one winter, the engine "staggered" - the camshaft and valves began to rattle, a pressure lamp flashes at low revs. The oil was filled with good - expensive synthetics.
What happened? Cold oil did not have time to pump through narrow channels, penetrate into small gaps and lubricate parts, resulting in "dry" friction, which led to rapid wear of parts. Especially "got" the valve mechanism and camshaft... And if a thicker "mineral water" had been filled in, the engine would not have survived even a month. So, in this case, it was necessary to warm up, for example, standing on the side of the road.
How to be?
If the car is parked in the yard, under the windows and during a long warm-up period, you poison your neighbors with exhaust gases, then you can plan a “warm-up route” for yourself in advance, drive along those streets where the flow rate is low. Or find a place where you can stand and warm up the engine to 50 - 60 degrees. If you think about it, there will always be ways and you will be able to find a balance between ecology and engine resource!
Winter is just around the corner, so it's time to start preparing your four-wheeled"Friend" for winter operation. Someone will say that it is enough to change tires from summer to winter. But experienced motorists are well aware that even a perfectly serviceable and new car can cause a lot of trouble in the winter.
Let's start with the rubber.
Many car enthusiasts prefer to ride all-season tires all year round. This option is suitable for a mild climate without severe frosts. In mid-latitudes it is better to use winter tires. When choosing winter tires, pay attention to its width. The narrower the rubber, the easier it will be for the car to push through the slurry, and the easier it will be for it to hook onto a solid base.
Do not be lazy to get diagnosed before the winter season. This will help identify potential problems and avoid costly repairs.
Change of oil
- this is another procedure that it is desirable to undergo before the onset of cold weather. The fact is that summer oil has a high viscosity, which is not very good for frosts. Winter oils have a lower viscosity, which helps the oil circulate properly and lubricate the engine in low temperature conditions.
Check the battery capacity. If battery
works well in summer, this does not mean that it will work just as well in winter. If the battery capacity has decreased by 30% or more, then it is better to install a new battery for the winter, and the old one can be used again in the summer. Check the terminals. If necessary, clean them and tighten them well.
It will be useful to check ignition systems. Pay special attention to candles. If the candles have already departed for one season, then it is better to replace them on the eve of winter. This procedure will significantly reduce the likelihood of not starting the car in cold weather.
Rinse injector nozzles.
Dirty injectors can be the reason that you simply cannot start the car in cold weather, when the volatility of the fuel drops sharply. However, in warm weather, the nozzles may work normally, so do not neglect this procedure.
If in summer you use distilled water for glass and headlight washers, do not forget to change it to non-freezing "washer"
... After replacement, bleed the system to remove any remaining water from the system.
Check the status cooling systems .
Top up with antifreeze if required. Remember not to mix red and yellow antifreeze with other types of fluids. Green and blue antifreeze can be mixed without any negative consequences.
Anti-corrosion body treatment
Is one of the easiest ways to protect your car from corrosion. Naturally, such processing is best done in a car service. Anti-corrosive the composition is applied to the bottom of the car, it covers all hidden cavities where snow, moisture and road reagents can get. To protect the paintwork (LCP), you can use different types of wax, mastic, all kinds of polymer products, preventing Paintwork from damage.
Lubricate everything locks in the car
silicone grease. Lubricate all door and trunk seals with the same grease to prevent doors from freezing in cold weather. However, even if you lubricated the locks, you still need to purchase special means for defrosting locks.
Don't forget to buy a scraper brush, for cleaning the car from snow and ice. Will not be superfluous and high side rugs... The water from the melted snow will remain on the mat without flooding the floor of your car. Can be replaced wiper blades to the tougher ones.
Check how it works blowing and heating glass.
If there are any problems, then fix them before the onset of cold weather.
The layout of the VAZ-2105, VAZ-2104 and VAZ-2107 cars is made according to the so-called classical scheme. The engine is located in the front, and the driving wheels are rear. Torque to the rear wheels is transmitted from the engine through the gearbox, propeller shaft and rear axle. Engine, The clutch and gearbox are combined in a single power unit. All units and mechanisms are attached to an all-metal welded body.
Vehicle brakes do not lose their effectiveness after repeated braking with high speed and ensure the preservation of the specified direction during heavy braking. rear brakes pressure regulator eliminates early blocking rear wheels when braking, which reduces the likelihood of skidding. Wet braking performance is minimized.
Reliability brake system provided disc brakes on the front wheels and separate drive, in which master cylinder has two pistons: one for actuation front brakes, and the second one is rear. In this case, if one system fails, the remaining one, although with less efficiency, provides braking.
Windshield type "triplex", consisting of two layers of glass with a transparent plastic film between them, remains always transparent, unlike tempered, which, when destroyed, instantly becomes opaque, making it impossible for the driver to see the road.
Thus, the design of VAZ-2105,04,07 vehicles takes into account the requirements of active and passive safety.
In winter, when temperatures are low, there are often problems with vehicles. This can happen both with a foreign car and a car. domestic production... It is especially difficult to start a car that has been in a cold garage or freezing cold for a long time. Next, we will take a closer look at how to start a VAZ 2107.
We start a VAZ 2107 in the cold
- As a last resort, you can always call a tow truck or a foreman who will solve this problem. In this case, such actions should be resorted to only as a last resort. You can try your hand at starting your favorite car in the cold.
- First of all, you need to check the condition of the battery. To do this, raise the hood and check how the indicator is on. It should burn brightly. Otherwise, it will not be possible to start the VAZ 2107 if the battery is completely discharged.
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- If the battery is completely discharged, you need to look for another vehicle which will charge it. Otherwise, the car can simply be pushed. To do this, we ask for help from passers-by. In this case, you need to squeeze the clutch all the way and go from the first to the second gear. The car must start, which will allow you to get to the car service and charge the battery.
- There may be a problem with the spark plugs if the battery indicator is brightly on. Oil may seep on the candles. In this case, you just need to clean the candles. It may be possible to start a VAZ in the cold.
- In winter, it is imperative to remove the battery in a warm room, if you do not intend to travel. It is also worth keeping the car in a warm garage and starting it daily, even if there are no travel plans. So we answered the question of how to start a VAZ 2107 in winter.
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How to start an automatic car in cold weather?
As mentioned above, frost negatively affects not only domestic cars but also cars with automatic transmission. Next, we will take a closer look at how to start a car with an automatic transmission in the cold:
- All owners need to prepare more responsibly for low temperatures automatic box gear. So it is recommended to buy a new battery if the old one has exceeded four years. It is also worth changing the engine oil. You also need to change all other fluids in the car.
- In the store you can buy special additives that improve the properties of the fuel and allow the car to start in winter. It is imperative to use such additives to improve performance characteristics gasoline.
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- If it was not possible to start the engine, it is recommended to inject a few milliliters of ether into the intake manifold. This method will allow you to start the engine faster in winter.
- A starter and charger can be used if the engine has not been started for several attempts. You can restore the battery capacity using other vehicles. You can always contact the service center.
If you haven't prepared your car for it, hurry up. We do not insist that you follow all our advice and recommendations yourself. If you don't want to mess around, there are service stations and professional masters. But you have to imagine what exactly needs to be done with the car, clearly explain it to the master, and sometimes make sure that everything is done as it should.
Tires
They don't walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car must also be changed for the winter. O winter tires We wrote more than once, so we will briefly recall only the main points.
For winter, tires are designated M + S (Mud + Snow - "Dirt + Snow"), Winter ("Winter") or W. These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or cloud.
It is better to choose tires that are narrower than those on which you ride in the summer - naturally within the size range allowed for your car. The tread should push the snow and mud slurry to hard surface, and narrow tires do it better.
It is undesirable to ride in winter all season tires- those marked with AS (All Seasons) or AW (Any Weather).
Their "winter" opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia. This is less true of rubber for SUVs. In an all-season version, it is much "more wintery" than a passenger car. If you have an SUV, AS and AW tires in winter are acceptable. But, of course, worse than M + S or Winter.
Studded tires hold better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean asphalt, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel blocking, skidding and braking distances increase: steel spikes slide well on the asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on the asphalt, expect from them the same death grip as on the ice. By the way, non-studded Winter tires new generations on slippery surfaces behave practically no worse than studded ones.
Some people only put studded tires on the drive wheels for the winter. And on the slaves they leave ... summer ones. Don't do this, it's dangerous. On slippery road the likelihood of a non-studded pair of wheels drifting is very high, even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and side slip resistance differ too much.
Do not spike tires anywhere. This is a responsible process that requires good equipment and specialists. Skewed, insufficiently or excessively sunken studs increase tire wear. And, of course, they do not contribute to security.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an injection engine can also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor vaporization of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now - a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-starting electric heaters are widely used - a kind of "boilers" in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the outlet, turned on the timer ... By the time the engine will be warmed up, and some structures also provide heating of the passenger compartment.
Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers. The cost with installation is about $ 250. For about $ 100, you can purchase a domestic-made heater (for VAZ models and Volga), but there is no timer for it.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that you need to have a special shield with an outlet near your home or office. This is good for the Finns, and if we have the appropriate infrastructure, it will not be soon and not everywhere. Another way out is an autonomous heater for liquid fuel, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. Fuel for it is gasoline or diesel fuel, depending on what the engine of your car is running on.
On Russian market presented autonomous heaters produced by Eberspacher, Webasto, as well as products of the Shadrinsky Automotive Aggregate Plant (SHAAZ).
The heater can be installed at specialized stations, of which there are already many in Moscow and in Russia as a whole. The warm-up time is no more than 15 minutes, while only 200 g of gasoline or diesel fuel is spent. Such heaters (in addition to the timer) can be equipped with a device remote control... Price autonomous heater on the Russian market - about $ 1000.
The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. For reference: every cold start at 20 ° C is equivalent to 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach working temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.
Butter
Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. But since the oil is changed on average every six months, why not do it on the eve of winter?
The vast majority of modern engine oils are, to one degree or another, all-season. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the vehicle operating instructions. But winters are different - both slushy-warm and vigorous-frosty. And it is not at all clear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter, and that he would need the oil "colder".
If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple method of determining its temperature suitability - for safety reasons. Let's call this Rule 35.
Into marking engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity grade on the SAE scale. For example: 15W – 40. It means that this oil viscosity at subzero temperatures meets the requirements for winter oils class 15W, and with positive - to summer oils class 40.
Remember the number 35. If you subtract the "winter" index from it viscosity grade, in our example this is 15, then we get a value called the limiting pumping temperature, i.e. the temperature at which the oil still retains fluidity.
35 - 15 = 20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to –20 ° C.
Accordingly, the lower the "winter" viscosity grade index, the colder the oil. 10W - up to –25 ° C; 5W - up to –30 ° C.
This is Rule 35. Simple and useful.
Battery
The frost hit, and the battery, which yesterday cheerfully turned the starter, refuses to do it flatly. No wonder - when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively young (up to 3P4 years), then on the eve of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge - if the car was constantly operated in the city, the battery charge is probably far from the nominal. If the battery is old and does not charge up to the nominal capacity, change it without hesitation, otherwise in winter it will probably let you down - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption - heater, heated seats, lights, wipers, rear window heater. ..
By the way, according to experts, the average duration of the "full life" of the battery is about twelve months, then a gradual fading begins. And the peak of sales of starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.
The days when the car owner knocked off his feet in search of a new battery are long gone - from the variety of brands and models on store shelves dazzling. Which one to choose is a personal matter. We only note that two price groups can be distinguished on the market now - batteries costing over $ 60 (usually up to $ 100), for example, "Bosch", "Steco", "American", "Fiamm", and batteries under $ 60 ("Mutlu "," Inci "," Centra "," SAEM ", etc.).
Higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally classified as maintenance-free. Special types of electrolytes and sealed design of such batteries increase their service life and provide high starting currents, which guarantee engine cranking even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers nowadays compulsorily use the technology of stacking plates, as a result of which it is possible to avoid short-circuiting the battery in the event of their destruction.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level. Recall that the density of the electrolyte for winter period must be at least 1.29.
Often, when buying a new battery, they try to choose it with a larger capacity, just to fit into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the main thing. Much more important is the starting current provided by the battery. Indeed, even with a battery with a large capacity, this indicator (due to its high intrinsic resistance) may turn out to be lower than that of a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a battery with a larger capacity requires more high current recharging, which the generator of your car will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its service life.
By the way, if you buy a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals - there are batteries " reverse polarity", to the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.
Ignition system
If you have new car foreign production, and even with an injection engine, you can not read further. But if the car is used, with carburetor motor- then it's another matter. Actually, the power supply and ignition systems are not connected with each other. But on modern engines with injection, you will not find either the ever-memorable mechanical distributor or breaker contacts. And on carburetor - as much as necessary. And in order not to mess around later in the cold, the contacts must be cleaned, the distributor cover - too (or it is better to replace). Even better is to replace the classic ignition system with an electronic one (if there are still car owners who have not done this).
Don't forget about high voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" roads, it is advisable to change them, and better - to wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature extremes. In addition, they do not form frost, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. By the way, the common cause of ignition problems can be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.
Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed every 15–20 thousand kilometers, that is, once every one and a half years (we do not take ultramodern ones that can withstand 100 thousand kilometers or more). There is no need to save on candles - ignite, clean and adjust the gaps. Change at least once a year - it's inexpensive. And put new ones exactly on the eve of winter. Fuel system
It is often the cause of poor engine performance in winter. And all - because of water condensate accumulated in the fuel tank. If the tank has drain plug, the water can be simply drained, if not - "neutralized" by using the so-called "moisture displacers". Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods present on the Russian market (STP, Loctite, WynnXs, Aspokem) offer similar preparations, which are poured into fuel tank and gradually cleanse the food system.
It will not be superfluous to put new filter fine cleaning fuel, clean the carburetor, and if the engine has an injection system, make sure the injectors are clean.
Owners of foreign diesel cars, especially if the car was previously operated in a country with a mild climate, should take care of the equipment fuel system special devices heating. Practice shows that it can be difficult to start a diesel engine at –20 ° С, since the fuel loses its fluidity (we can only guess how "wintery" diesel fuel is, which we sell in winter). One of the most effective measures is the use of heated fuel drives and filters. At the same time, let diesel engine it is possible even at –40 ° С. Heating is carried out by elements that are powered by a standard battery.
The current consumed by them is about 5A, turning on the heaters for 5-10 minutes practically does not affect the battery capacity.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets that are abundantly sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is most exposed to corrosion, and its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to employees of some authorized service centers, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough. But if you have, say, new Skoda(not to mention domestic cars), then experts recommend carrying out a complete anti-corrosion bottom treatment, wheel arches and hidden body cavities.
Installation of wheel arches will also be useful.
The cost of these services is on average $ 250-300 and depends mainly on the type of protective drugs used. There are a lot of them on our market now. But first of all, it is probably worth paying attention to those that are used in countries with a climate similar to ours. These can be Finnish Mercasol AL with aluminum additives, Swedish Noxudol on a metallized base, Canadian Rust stop or Tektyl.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to process them in a specialized service center. It is worthwhile to find out in advance by what technology it is produced. Anyway before applying protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Since you have been doing anticorrosive treatment for several years, it is better to be present near the car and personally observe this process.
Winter is not an easy test for paintwork body. Sharp temperature changes, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The body surface can be protected with a special compound suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month - after the obligatory washing of the machine and its drying.
The question of where to keep a car in winter is usually not really an issue - those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, from the point of view of the safety of the body (from corrosion, not from theft), between trips and overnight it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat emitted by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt are actively doing their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from the bottom of the salt, it will stay wet all night ...
Glass
Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth reminding that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating of windows must be in good working order. Throw away brushes that leave frosted stripes on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion ... Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to the on-board network - they have recently appeared on sale.
One more element active safety – side mirrors rear view. In winter, they have to be cleared of ice or snow every day. At the same time, their initial installation gets confused, which brings additional troubles. With an extra $ 250, you can add electrically heated and electrically adjustable mirrors to make your car more enjoyable.
Now directly on the glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. After all, even a small chip on windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain, it will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies allow you to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than replacing glass - repairing (removing a crack) 10 cm long will cost $ 50, and new glass and its "gluing" - at least $ 350.
Another "winter" problem is glass fogging. If the ventilation system is working, it rarely occurs, but ... The use of anti-fogging liquids, for example, Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which is enough to apply to the glass once a week, helps.
Expendable materials
Everything expendable materials, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in the brake and clutch drive, have their own service life. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of the brown or green antifreeze from the radiator from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace the antifreeze. And do not save money by buying questionable drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.
No less careful approach should be taken to the choice of anti-freeze glass washers. This is in the countryside at -20 ° - dry and clean snow under the wheels. And in Moscow, even in severe frost, there is a dirty greasy goo, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the supply of fluid in the washer reservoir is an indispensable condition. safe driving... But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20 ° C, do not flatter yourself and do not try to dilute it, even if it is -10 ° C outside. Practice shows that on the move liquids with a freezing point of -40 ° C freeze on the windshield even in ten-degree frost , if the glass is not heated (again to the question of the health of the ventilation and heating system).
Anti-freeze washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, however, foaming too much, but they are much better than the cheap vodka, which many preferred to pour into the tank last winter. From her only the smell in the interior of the battle, and she cleans the glass badly ...
Well, that's probably all. If you follow at least some of these recommendations,
