The basis for starting the engine of any car is the battery (accumulator). If a carburetor ICE required a little energy to start, then modern injection machines require a constantly powerful, charged battery. This is due to the activation of the electric fuel pump, on-board computer etc.
Battery charging methods
There are several ways, charging methods battery... Sealed in a different way, there are rules. There are 3 ways to do this correctly:
- Charge with constant current. it quick way, used for equalization and boost charging of the battery.
- Charge with constant voltage, 2 types of this method: 1) slightly varying voltage (at first, the voltage is applied less); 2) at constant voltage.
- Charge with both current and voltage (combined). It is applied in 2 stages: 1) First, a constant current of 1/10 of the nominal capacity of the battery is supplied. When the battery reaches a voltage in the range of 14.4 to 14.8 volts, a constant voltage is turned on. 2) In the second stage, the voltage is applied constant, and the current decreases due to the increase in the internal resistance of the battery.
The third way is the best. Charging by this method, that is, not at speed, gas formation and hydrolysis do not occur due to the supply of increased voltage.
Let's take a closer look at the first charging method.
When using the first charging method, when a constant current is used, the voltage is supplied no higher than 16.2 Volts.
For example, if the battery has a capacity of 50 Ah (Ampere * hours_, then if you charge in the first way for 20 hours, it turns out that a direct current of 2.5 Amperes was supplied (50 A * h / 20 h \u003d 2.5 A). also charged well, but in 10 hours, then you need to provide a current of 5 Amperes (50/10).
Plus 1 method - the battery will be fully charged. Minus 1 method - gases are released from the liquid when heated.
If you decide to use the constant current method, then it is recommended to first apply a current of 1/10 of the battery capacity. Then, when the voltage of one cell becomes 2.4 Volts, reduce the current by 2 times.
For better, buy a good charger that provides a stable and constant supply of electricity, without interruptions.
Let's take a closer look at the second charging method.
By applying constant voltage, the car battery can be charged up to 90%. The charging current will change due to the emerging resistance.
Pros of the second method:
- quickly;
- first, energy is spent on restoring the plates, then charging takes place.
The disadvantage of the second method is that there is a strong heating of the electrolyte. Equalizing charge is used to eliminate the result of deep discharges. The increasing sulfation of the electrodes is well eliminated.
Forced method
The forced method is used to quickly reanimate the battery. Do not allow an increase in current strength up to 70% for more than half an hour from the value of the rated capacity. Further, within 45 minutes it is necessary to reduce the current so that it is half the value of the nominal capacity. Then it should be charged with a current equal to 30% of the nominal capacity for 1.5 hours. With this method of charging, it is necessary to control the temperature of the electrolyte. If the electrolyte temperature exceeds 45 degrees, charging must be stopped.
The disadvantage of the forced method is that it shortens the life of the car battery.
How to properly charge the battery
If the starter starts to turn badly or does not turn at all, then it may be a dead battery, or there may be other reasons. 
We check the condition of the battery. To measure density, turn off the engine. Good battery when fully charged, it has a liquid density of 1.27 to 1.29 g / cm3. After that, we measure the voltage with a voltmeter or multimeter in the "voltage" mode, a well-charged battery has a voltage at the terminals from 12.3 to 12.9 Volts.
A half-dead car battery will have 1.16 - 1.18 g / cm3, and the voltage will be 11.8 - 12 V.
One-third of a battery that has run down, as a rule, has a liquid density (sulfuric acid + distilled water) in the range of 1.23 - 1.25 g / cm3, and the voltage will be 12.0 - 12.1 Volts.
If the battery is completely discharged, then the density of its liquid will be in the range of 1.11 - 1.13 g / cm3, and the voltage will be below 11 Volts.
Now, after the state of the battery has been determined, you should prepare it, select the desired mode and put it on charge.
Home battery charging sequence:
- Switch off the internal combustion engine, disconnect the terminals and.
- Clean the cover from dust and electrolyte traces. You can simply, first with a damp cloth, then dry. You can also use a solution of sodium soda diluted in a glass of water. Baking soda will neutralize the electrolyte.
- Clean lead terminals from oxides and deposits. Sandpaper with coarse abrasives works well.
- Further, when the cover is clean, you need to unscrew the battery capacity caps.
- Now it is necessary to determine the level of liquid in the compartments. Some batteries have electrolyte level marks on the case. If below min marks (minimum level) then top up to slightly above this level. If there are no marks on the case, then make sure that the liquid slightly covers the lead plates.
- Next, you need to connect the terminals of the wires of the charger to the battery terminal. Observe the polarity, the red terminal to the plus, the black to the minus.
- We turn on the battery charger. If there is an automatic mode, then we put it on, if not, then we set the necessary parameters ourselves.
How to charge the battery on the road
If the car stalls on the road, and the starter barely turns and cannot start the engine, or does not turn at all, then you will have to use one of the ways to start the internal combustion engine on the road - this is to "light up". But, for this you need to stop a passing car. Maybe you're lucky and your neighbor will stop on the road. But, not everyone is ready to light the car, as they fear that the electronics will be damaged. In order not to risk it, they remove their battery and put it on your car, start it up and then remove it. When the engine is started, it can no longer be turned off until you reach your destination.
Well, the second way to start a car with a dead battery is from the pusher. This method is suitable for carbureted internal combustion engines.
Recommendation. If the car is not planned to be used for more than a month, for example, you need to leave for a shift, to work, then it is better to disconnect the terminals, even if you have a reliable Russian one. And if it's in winter time, then it is advisable to bring the battery into a warm room.
Is it possible to recharge the battery
Few people think about whether it is possible to recharge the battery and what will happen if the battery is recharged. As already mentioned, the normal density of the electrolyte is 1.27 g / cm3. If the density increases, then the liquid begins to separate into acid and water.
Separated water in the battery can cause the sealed battery to explode, as the water quickly boils. 
Also, the car battery can be blown up due to "lighting" from another car. 
Video
This video explains how long it takes to charge a car battery and how to do it correctly so as not to damage the battery.
This video "Main road" explains the reasons for the explosion of the car battery.
Car battery charging may be required by a motorist in any season, but most often the need appears in the winter season. At first, the process seems mysterious, because some drivers do not know how to charge the battery, how long it takes, etc. In fact, charging the battery is a fairly simple procedure that can be done right on the car, in the garage, or even at home. This article will answer all questions related to charging a car battery.
Rechargeable battery
Charging time
Today, motorists use three ways to charge the battery:
- when applying a constant voltage;
- on direct current;
- the combined method, where the two previous methods are used.
We will go through each of these methods, but for now we are interested in, how much to charge the car battery... DC charging is most often used with batteries that are completely discharged. Here the motorist is faced with the task of ensuring that the supplied voltage remains unchanged. You can track the indicators on the battery indicator. This method assumes that the battery will be charged for about 15 hours. For a lead-antimony battery it will take a day.
Car battery recharging the second method should be performed with a current, the indicator of which does not exceed 1/10 of the battery capacity. This limit applies to lead-antimony batteries. Calcium batteries made with hybrid technology are capable of accepting higher currents. Such car battery charging takes about 20 hours.
What is the combined charging method? It uses a modern battery charger that is fully automated. In this case, you need to remove the battery, thoroughly clean it and put it on charge. Usually the device can handle it overnight. But we do not need to worry about the time, because the charger will turn off on its own when fully charged.
Battery charging methods
We figured out which car battery charging time required for the first and second method. In practice, there should be no difficulties, since the process is not much different from charging other electronics. The car battery charges in a slightly different way, but the essence remains the same.
You need to understand that charging the battery is technological process, which also has its own requirements. When working with a battery, you must have protective equipment - rubber gloves, which are impervious to chemical liquids. In any case, we need a working charger.
Car battery charger
We must comply with the following conditions while charging the battery:
- Before, how to charge car battery, it must be completely cleaned, and the ventilation holes must be visually inspected.
- When choosing a method with constant current, you cannot charge the battery at home - only in a garage or box, while the room must be ventilated.
- Do not smoke or keep an open flame near the battery, regardless of the method chosen.
- Before installing the battery for charging, it is necessary to check the condition and level of the electrolyte.
Method one: constant voltage
The process is quite simple - the charger is connected to the battery. When using constant voltage, it is better to remove the battery. The charge level depends only on the voltage value. If you set it to 14.4 V, then in a day the 12-volt battery will be charged to about 85%. When set to 15 V, the charge will reach 90%. Perfect option - this is 16 V, with which the battery is charged up to 97%.
It is necessary to take into account the internal resistance and capacity of the battery. Depending on the ratio of these indicators, the current that passes through it at the beginning of charging can exceed 50A. To prevent the battery from burning out, there is a 20-25A limiter on all chargers.
Method two: constant current
Before, how to charge car battery using direct current, you need to check the charge level. It was already said above that the current strength should be 1/10 of the battery capacity. For example, if the battery has a capacity of 60 A / h, then a current of 6 A is required to charge. The only drawback of the constant current method is the need to check the value of the supplied current every hour and adjust it.
The adjustment consists in a constant decrease in the current strength. For example, when the voltage reaches 14 V, the current will need to be halved. At 15 V we have to lower the power to 1.5 Amperes. It is possible to determine that the battery is fully charged by the voltage of the charger, which does not change for two hours. Now we know what current to charge a car battery, since the variable is in no way suitable for the battery in the car.
Method three: combined
It is this method that is used in most modern chargers. It is the simplest and does not require control. At the beginning, charging is carried out with constant voltage, and at the end with constant current. Chargers are often placed in luggage compartment... When car battery dead right on the way - this device will come in handy. In this case, express charging is used, which, although it charges the battery in 20 minutes, causes serious damage to it.
Express charging takes place according to the following scheme:
- We remove the battery terminals and thoroughly clean them.
- We connect the terminals from the charger and do not forget about the polarity, which must be observed.
- We set the current to the maximum value and set the timer for 20 minutes. If there is no timer on the charger, you can always use your watch or phone.
- After express charging, put the battery back in place and start the engine.
Conclusion
Sometimes motorists ask themselves: « How long does a car battery last? "... The time depends on the type of car, operating modes and the type of battery. With regular checking and recharging, the battery will last long enough, the main thing is not to forget about it.
During engine operation, the battery () regardless of the type (serviced or maintenance-free battery) is recharged from car generator... To control the battery charge, a device called a relay-regulator is installed on the generator.
The very operation of a car in winter often involves short trips, the inclusion of a large number of energy-intensive equipment (heated mirrors, glass, seats, etc.) The load on the battery increases significantly. At the same time, the battery simply does not have time to charge from the generator and compensate for the losses spent on starts. Considering the above, it is optimal to fully charge the battery with a charger to 100% at least once a year before the onset of cold weather.
We add that in case of problems with starting the engine due to the presence of engine malfunctions (problems with fuel equipment, etc.), the owner has to turn the starter much longer and more intensively. In such cases, you will need to charge the battery with an external charger much more often.
Charging the battery with a charger
To know how to charge a maintenance-free car battery with a charger, as well as to charge a service-type battery, certain rules must be followed. The charger (charger, external charger OVC, starting charger) is actually a capacitor charger.
The car battery is a constant current source. When connecting the battery, be sure to observe the polarity. For this purpose, the positive and negative terminals are marked with a plus and minus sign ("+" and "-") on the battery. The terminals on the charger have a similar marking, which allows you to correctly connect the battery to the charger. In other words, the "plus" of the battery is connected to the "+" terminal of the charger, the "minus" on the battery is connected to the "-" output of the charger.
Note that accidental polarity reversal will result in the battery discharging instead of charging. It should also be borne in mind that a deep discharge (the battery is completely seated) can in some cases damage the battery, as a result of which it may not be possible to charge such a battery with a charger.
It should also be borne in mind that before connecting to the charger, the battery must be removed from the car and thoroughly cleaned of possible contamination. Acid streaks are well removed with a damp cloth, which is moistened in a solution with soda. To prepare the solution, 15-20 grams of soda is enough for 150-200 grams of water. The presence of acid will be indicated by foaming of the specified solution when applied to the battery case.
As for the serviced batteries, the plugs on the acid cans should be unscrewed. The fact is that during charging, gases are formed in the battery, which must be provided with a free outlet. You should also check the electrolyte level. When the level drops below the norm, distilled water is topped up.
What voltage to charge the car battery
To begin with, charging a battery involves supplying it with a current that is not enough for a battery to fully charge. Based on this statement, you can answer the questions of how to charge car battery, and also how much to charge the car battery with the charger.
In the event that a battery with a capacity of 50 Ampere-hours is 50% charged, then at the initial stage a charging current of 25 A should be set, after which this current should be dynamically reduced. By the time the battery is fully charged, the current supply should stop. This principle of operation is the basis of automatic chargers, with the help of which a car battery is charged on average in 4-6 hours. The only drawback of such chargers is their high cost.
It is also worth highlighting semi-automatic chargers and solutions that involve completely manual configuration. The latter are the most affordable and widely available for sale. Taking into account that the battery is usually 50% discharged, you can calculate how much to charge a maintenance-free car battery, and also understand how much to charge a car battery of a serviced type.
The basis for calculating the battery charging time is the battery capacity. Knowing this parameter, the charge time is calculated quite simply. If the battery has a capacity of 50 Ah, then for full charge it is required to supply a current of no more than 30 Ah to such a battery. The charger sets 3A, which will take ten hours to fully charge the battery with the charger.
To be 100% sure that the battery is fully charged, after 10 hours you can set the current to 0.5 A on the charger, and then continue charging the battery for another 5-10 hours. This charging method poses no danger to car batterieswho have large capacity... The downside is the need to charge the battery for about a day.
To save time and fast charging The battery can be set to 8 A, and then charged for about 3 hours. After expiration this period the charge current is reduced to 6 A and the battery is charged with this current for another 1 hour. As a result, it takes 4 hours to charge. Note that this charging mode is not optimal, since it is advisable to charge the battery not high current up to 3 A.
Charging with a high current can overcharge and overheat the battery, resulting in a significant reduction in battery life. We also note that the use of battery charging methods that are aimed at minimizing the negative process of sulfation of the plates, in practice, do not have noticeable positive results.
Correct operation of the battery, depending on its type (serviced and unattended), the elimination of deep discharge and timely charging with the help of a charger allow an acid battery to work properly for 3-7 years.
How to assess the condition and charge of a car battery
Proper charging and a number of conditions that must be observed during the operation of a car battery can ensure a normal engine start even in extremely low temperatures. The main indicator of the state of the battery is the degree of its charge. Next, we will answer how to find out if the car battery is charged.
To begin with, some battery models have a special color indicator on the battery itself, which indicates whether the battery is charged or discharged. It should be noted that this indicator is a very rough indicator, by which it is possible, with a certain degree of probability, to determine only the need for additional charging. In other words, the charge indicator can indicate that the battery is charged, but the starting current at negative temperatures is insufficient.
Another way to determine the degree of battery charge is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals. This method also allows a very rough estimate of the state and degree of charge. To measure the battery, you need to remove it from the car or disconnect it from the charger, after which you need to wait an additional 7 hours. The outside temperature is not critical.
- 12.8V-100% charge;
- 12.6V-75% charge;
- 12.2V-50% charge;
- 12.0V-25% charge;
- A voltage drop of less than 11.8 V indicates a complete discharge of the battery.
You can also check the battery charge without waiting. For this, the voltage at the battery terminals must be measured by the load using the so-called load plugs. This method is more accurate and reliable. The specified plug is a voltmeter, a resistance is connected in parallel to the terminals of the voltmeter. The resistance value is 0.018-0.020 Ohm for a battery with a capacity indicator of 40-60 Ampere-hours.
The plug must be connected to the corresponding outputs on the battery, then after 6-8 seconds. fix the readings that the voltmeter displays. Next, you can estimate the battery voltage level using a load plug:
- 10.5 V - 100% charge;
- 9.9 V - 75% charge;
- 9.3 V - 50% charge;
- 8.7 V - 25% charge;
- Indicator less than 8.18 V - full battery discharge;
You can also take measurements in the absence of a load plug without removing the battery from the car. The battery must be connected to on-board network vehicle... Then you need to give a load to the battery by turning on the dimensions and high beam head optics (for cars with standard halogen lamps). The headlight bulbs have a power of 50 W, the load is about 10 A. The voltage of a normally charged battery in this case should be about 11.2 V.
The next method that allows you to check the battery charge is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals at the moment when starting the internal combustion engine... These measurements can only be considered reliable if the starter is working properly.
At the moment of start-up, the voltage indicator should not be below the 9.5 V mark. A voltage drop below the indicated mark means that the battery is severely discharged. In this case, it needs to be charged with a charger. This test method also allows you to identify problems with the starter. A known serviceable and 100% charged battery is installed on the car, after which the measurement is taken. If the voltage at the battery terminals at the time of starting drops below 9.5 V, then problems with the starter are obvious.
Finally, we add that the measurements different ways suggest the fixation of fluctuations in a fraction of a volt. For this reason, increased requirements are imposed on the voltmeter. The accuracy of the device is extremely important, since the slightest error of even one or two percent will lead to an error in measuring the state of charge of the battery by 10 -20%. For measurements, it is recommended to use devices with a minimum error.
How to charge a fully discharged car battery
A common cause of deep battery discharge is banal inattention. Often it is enough to leave the car with the included dimensions or headlights, interior lighting or radio tape recorder for 6-12 hours, after which the battery is completely discharged. For this reason, many car owners are interested in the question of whether it is possible to restore a completely discharged battery.
As you know, a complete discharge of a battery has a strong effect on battery life, especially when it comes to a maintenance-free battery. Car battery manufacturers indicate that even one full discharge is enough to damage the battery. In practice, relatively new batteries can be restored at least 1 or 2 times after their complete discharge without significant loss of performance.
First, you need to determine how much the battery is discharged using one of the above methods. You can also put the battery on charge immediately. Then a completely discharged battery must be charged in the mode recommended by the battery manufacturer. The standard is to supply a charge current at 0.1 of the total battery capacity.
A fully planted battery is charged with this current for at least 14-16 hours. As an example, consider charging a 60 amp-hour battery. In this case, the charge current should be on average from 3 A (slower) to 6 A (faster). A fully discharged car battery should be properly charged with the smallest current, and as long as possible (about a day).
When the voltage at the battery terminals no longer increases for 60 minutes. (provided that the same charging current), then the battery is fully charged. When fully charged, maintenance-free batteries assume a voltage value of 16.2 ± 0.1 V. It should be borne in mind that this voltage value is a standard, but there is a dependence on the battery capacity, charge current, electrolyte density in the battery, etc. Any voltmeter is suitable for measurement, regardless of the device error, since it is necessary to measure a constant, not an exact voltage.
How to charge a car battery if there is no charger
The most in a simple way charging the battery is to start the car using the "lighting" method from another car, after which you need to drive the car for about 20-30 minutes. For the efficiency of charging from the generator, either dynamic driving in higher gears or driving on "low" is assumed.
The main condition is to maintain the crankshaft speed at around 2900-3200 rpm. At the specified speed, the generator will provide the required current to recharge the battery. Note that this method is suitable only if the battery is partially and not deeply discharged. Also, after the trip, you will still need to fully charge the battery.
Quite often, motorists are interested in what else you can charge a car battery, besides the charger. Most often, as a replacement, it is supposed to use chargers that charge mobile phones, tablets, laptops and other gadgets. Immediately, we note that these solutions do not allow charging a car battery without a number of manipulations.
The fact is that the main condition for supplying current from the charger to the battery is that a voltage must be present at the output of the charger, which will be higher than the voltage at the outputs of the battery. In other words, when the voltage of the battery outputs is 12 V, the output voltage of the charger should be 14 V. As for various devices, the voltage of their batteries often does not exceed 7.0 V. Now, imagine that you have at hand a charger from a gadget that has the required voltage 12 Q. The problem will still be present, since the resistance of the car's battery is measured in whole ohms.
It turns out that the charging connection from mobile device to the battery outputs will actually be a short circuit of the terminals of the charging power supply. The protection will operate in the unit, as a result of which such a charger will not supply current to the battery. In the absence of protection, there is a high probability of failure of the power supply from a significant load.
It should be added that the car battery should also not be charged from various power supplies that have a suitable output voltage, but they structurally lack the ability to adjust the amount of current supplied. Only a special charger for a car battery is a device that has at its output the required voltage and current for charging the battery. In parallel with this, it is possible to control a constant current value.
Homemade charger for car battery
Now let's move from theory to practice. Let's start with the fact that you can make a charger for a battery from a power supply from a third-party device with your own hands.
Please note that these actions pose a certain danger and are performed solely at your own peril and risk. The administration of the resource does not bear any responsibility, the information is presented for informational purposes only!
There are several ways to make a charger. Let's take a quick look at the most common ones:
- Making a charger from a source that has a voltage of about 13-14 V at its output, and is also capable of providing a current of more than 1 Ampere. A laptop power supply is suitable for this task.
- Charging from a regular household electrical outlet 220 volts. This will require a semiconductor diode and an incandescent lamp, which are connected in series in a circuit.
It should be borne in mind that the use of such solutions means charging the battery through a current source. As a result, constant monitoring of the time and moment of the end of the battery charge is required. This control carried out by regular measurements of the voltage at the battery terminals or by counting the time at which the battery is charged.
Remember, overcharging the battery leads to an increase in the temperature inside the battery and the active release of hydrogen and oxygen. The boiling of the electrolyte in the "banks" of the battery causes the formation of an explosive mixture. The battery may explode if an electrical spark is generated or other sources of ignition occur. An explosion like this can lead to fires, burns and injuries!
Now let's focus on the most common method self-made Charger for the car battery. We are talking about charging from a laptop PSU. To accomplish the task, certain knowledge, skills and experience in the field of assembling simple electrical circuits are required. Otherwise, the best solution would be to contact a specialist, purchase a ready-made charger or replace the battery with a new one.
The scheme for manufacturing the memory itself is quite simple. A ballast lamp is connected to the PSU, and the outputs of the homemade charger are connected to the battery outputs. As a "ballast" you need a lamp with a small rating.
If you try to connect the power supply unit to the battery without using a ballast lamp in the electrical circuit, then you can quickly disable both the power supply unit and the battery.
You should select the desired lamp step by step, starting with the minimum ratings. To begin with, you can connect a low-power turn signal lamp, then a more powerful turn signal lamp, etc. Each lamp should be tested separately by connecting it in a circuit. If the light is on, then you can proceed to connecting an analogue of greater power. This method will help not to damage the power supply. Finally, we add that about the battery charge from such homemade device will indicate the burning of the ballast lamp. In other words, if the battery is charging, then the lamp will burn, even if it is very dim.
New battery must be fully charged and operational, that is, it implies immediate installation on a vehicle to start further operation. Before purchasing, it is necessary to check the battery for a number of parameters:
- hull integrity;
- measuring the voltage at the outputs;
- checking the density of the electrolyte;
- date of manufacture of the battery;
At the initial stage, you need to remove protective film and inspect the case for cracks, streaks and other defects. In the event of the slightest deviation from the norm, it is recommended to replace the battery.
Then the voltage is measured at the terminals of the new battery. You can measure the voltage with a voltmeter, while the accuracy of the device does not matter. The voltage should not be lower than the 12 volt mark. A voltage reading of 10.8 volts indicates that the battery is completely discharged. Such an indicator is unacceptable for a new battery.
The density of the electrolyte is measured using a special plug. Also, the density parameter indirectly indicates the battery level. The final stage of the check is to determine the release date of the battery. Batteries that were released 6 months. back or more from the day of the planned purchase should not be purchased. The fact is that a battery ready for use has a tendency to self-discharge. For this reason, for long-term storage, the battery must be prepared in advance, but in this case, the battery can no longer be considered a new finished product.
It turns out that the answer to the question whether it is necessary to charge a new battery for the car will be negative. There is no need to charge a new battery. If the battery planned for purchase is discharged, then it may simply be old, used, or there is a manufacturing defect.
Other questions about charging car batteries
Very often during operation, owners try to charge the battery without removing the battery from the car. In other words, the battery is charged without removing the terminals directly on the car, that is, the battery while charging remains connected to the vehicle's network.
We draw your attention to the fact that when the battery is charging, the voltage at the battery terminals may be at around 16 V. This voltage indicator strongly depends on what type of charger is used for charging. We add that even turning off the ignition and removing the key from the lock does not mean that all devices in the car are de-energized. Security complex or alarm, multimedia headunit, interior lighting and other solutions can remain on or in standby mode.
Charging the battery without removing and disconnecting the terminals can result in too high supply voltage applied to powered devices. The result is usually the breakdown of such devices. If your car has devices that cannot be completely de-energized after turning off the ignition, then it is prohibited to charge the battery without disconnecting the terminals. In this case, before charging, it is necessary to disconnect the "negative" terminal.
Also, do not start disconnecting the battery from the "positive" terminal. The negative terminal on the battery is connected to the vehicle's electrical system through a direct connection to the body. An attempt to turn off the "plus" first may have sad consequences... Unintentional contact of a wrench or other tool with metal parts of the vehicle body / engine will cause a short circuit. This situation It is quite common in cases when the positive terminal is unscrewed from the battery output with the help of keys, with the minus not removed.
As for charging the battery in the cold or indoors in winter without heating, the battery can be safely recharged in such conditions. During charging, the battery heats up, the temperature of the electrolyte in the "banks" will be positive. In parallel with this, bringing the battery into heat for charging is required if the electrolyte has frozen inside the battery and the battery has been completely seated. It is necessary to charge such a battery strictly after the frozen electrolyte thaws.
If you ask a similar question to anyone who has at least some idea of \u200b\u200bthe car and battery, you can get the most detailed advice. For some reason, many believe that this question is so trifling that it’s even a shame not to know it. However, statistics show that more than half of the batteries do not withstand the service life declared by the Manufacturer and they have to be prematurely replaced with new ones.
And the main reason is incorrect charging during the operating period. Let's figure out how to charge the battery, and do it CORRECTLY.
Let us immediately clarify one point. It is believed that if the car's generator works without interruptions, and the car is used regularly, then this is quite enough to maintain the proper level of battery charge. This opinion is fundamentally wrong, and here's why. Generator on its own technical specifications is not able to provide 100% charging, that is, the battery will be partially charged all the time, which significantly reduces its service life.
Remove the battery from the vehicle
Often, motorists neglect this and charge the battery without removing it from the car. But in vain, and here's why.
First, the battery needs a systematic inspection, and from all sides, not just from above. Electrolyte spillage is possible (corrosion of the "landing" socket frame will appear), a crack in the case (the result of constant vibration and unreliable fixation at the location).
Secondly, the product must be cleaned of dirt and dust. The fact is that the "plaque" formed on the case between the terminals is conductive, which means that the degree of self-discharge of the battery increases, which negatively affects its service life.
Therefore, the battery must be serviced before charging. It is good to collect accumulated dirt, in which there is acid, with a swab dipped in a weak solution of soda. If foaming occurs, this indicates that not all of the acid has been removed from the surface of the housing.
By the way, the terminals also need periodic maintenance, since the lead is oxidized, and therefore more current is required when starting the engine, which leads to an increased discharge of the battery.
If, nevertheless, the battery is charged at the place of installation, then the suitable (network) wires must be removed from its terminals.
Unscrew the caps on cans
You should also not forget about the need for their maintenance. In the center of each there is a small through hole through which the products of gas formation, which occurs during operation, are removed. If it is clogged with dirt, then the accumulated gas can simply rupture the housing.
In addition, make sure that the electrolyte level is correct. If necessary, top up with water (distilled).
Connect the terminals of the charger
Here you need to pay attention to the correspondence of the polarity. "Plus" is connected to "+" of the battery, "minus" - with "-".
Charging process
It depends a lot on the type of device. However, many car enthusiasts prefer to produce it manually. The current is set to the maximum (depending on the rated capacity of the battery), and as the voltage decreases, it is added.
It should be immediately stipulated that much depends on how the battery is operated, to what extent it is discharged, how often the owner puts it on recharge exactly from external device... Influences the "quality" of the car generator.
The most optimal is the charging mode with small currents. More on this below. It remains to add that it is necessary to systematically monitor this process. Sometimes a car enthusiast simply puts the battery on charge and goes away for several hours. This is fraught with the fact that the battery may charge earlier (and the process of recharging will begin) or even "reset" the current to a minimum. Then you will have to increase it and still wait for a full charge.
After what we now know, it is possible to answer some common questions that beginner motorists have.
How do I know when the battery is fully charged?
The voltage at its terminals can be different (from 14.5 to 16.1 V). It depends on many components (electrolyte density, capacity, and a number of others). Main criterion - the constancy of the output voltage at its terminals with the ongoing charging process for 1 hour. Measured by any type of voltmeter, regardless of its accuracy class.
Can I charge at negative air temperatures?
Yes, because electrolyte with the proper density never freezes. Example - the machine is operated not only in summer, but also in winter, and, nevertheless, the recharging from the generator is not interrupted.
Is it necessary to disconnect the battery from the on-board network when charging from an external source?
Required. Quite often, the battery is charged without removing it from the installation site. But here you need to take into account that, even with the ignition off and "ground", any electronic device... IN modern models automobiles there are so many different features of engineering solutions that it is impossible to foresee everything, especially since not all Manufacturers describe in detail such nuances in the documentation for "auto". Therefore, it is better not to take risks and be reinsured, otherwise the higher than it should be, the "voltage" of the charger can damage something.
How often should the battery be recharged if it is removed from the car?
Many motorists do not use their " iron horses" in winter period... The zealous owner removes the battery at this time and stores it separately, in a warm room. But any device characterized by such a parameter as electrical capacity is gradually self-discharging.
Naturally, the electrolyte begins to react to low temperatures, and in a discharged state, in a cold room, the cans can simply freeze over. Such a battery can no longer be restored. By the way, that is why it is necessary to take it off for the winter and put it in “warm”. Recommendations for the frequency of recharging are different. In order not to be mistaken, it should be done about once every 3 months (provided that the battery is stored at a positive temperature).
If the battery is not removed from the car, but it is not used, then you need to charge it more often - once every 1.5 - 2 months. This is due to the fact that it is possible to increase the self-discharge current through the on-board network. And if the wires are removed from the terminals, but it is cold in the garage, then at least once every 2 weeks. It's safer this way.
How much current to set and how long to charge?
There is such a criterion that is applicable to all types of batteries - the charging current is 10% of the rated capacity of the product. The most common batteries are 45 A / h (for passenger cars). Therefore, the optimal charge current is 4.5 A. If the discharge is complete, then at least 12 - 15 hours. In other cases - until fully charged. How to determine is indicated above.
Since the degree of rarefaction cannot be determined "by eye", then if the battery is not fully discharged, experts recommend using the "sparing" mode, that is, setting the current 2 times less than the calculated one (for example, instead of 4.5 A, set 2.5). Naturally, it will take more time to charge, but the service life of the product will also increase.
Sometimes, to reduce the charging time, motorists specifically give an increased current. Yes, this will charge the battery faster. But this does not take into account the fact that chemical processesoccurring at the same time begin to flow more intensively, and this entails an increase in the temperature of the electrolyte. Overheating of the battery significantly reduces its shelf life.
Experienced motorists prefer this "technology" - the current is about half an ampere, and let it "stand". Although longer, it is quite safe for the battery. In this case, charging is achieved 100 percent.
It remains to add that if we do not allow the systematic discharge of the battery to a critical minimum (10.5 V), then the product will reliably serve not only 5 guaranteed years, but also more. The normal electrolyte density within the normal range is 1.25 - 1.27; voltage at the terminals - depending on the type of battery.
At first glance, the procedure for charging a car battery, which is simple, is actually not as primitive as it seems. Damage from incorrect actions when charging the battery can amount to thousands, and sometimes even hundreds of thousands of rubles (meaning short-circuit cases with subsequent ignition). And it's not the worst if you can't get started frosty morning, it happens in the process of charging, the battery explodes, smashing everything nearby in the engine compartment.
You can read below how to charge your car's battery and get the most out of it, or watch a video with a simplified way of charging the battery:
It will not be a revelation to anyone that in the conditions of the Russian climate, batteries (rechargeable batteries) are far from operating in a design mode. For those who are not fresh, I note that the batteries fail not only because of not recharging, but also because of overcharging. I will explain to beginners - such malfunctions of the generator are possible when it gives an increased current and recharges the battery. Or just not experienced car enthusiast with his own hands charges the battery over the norm.
Low state of charge (battery not fully charged) in cold climates is main reason sulfation of plates, and in severe cases can even lead to a change in the polarity of individual AB elements (individual cans).
A high degree of charge (the battery is recharged) in a warm climate causes the destruction of the lattice of the plus plates and intensive shedding of the active mass from them.
All this leads to battery failures and shortened battery life.
Therefore, in order for the battery to work normally for the prescribed period (from 5 to 11 years), it is necessary to perform certain control preventive operations.
Firstly, four to five times a year, during the operation period, monitor the battery charging voltage on the car, check the level and density of the electrolyte, and also keep the battery itself and its terminals clean (to exclude increased self-discharge). You should also occasionally perform control charge-discharge cycles, which will allow you to determine the degree of sulfation of the working plates and delay the process of their further sulfation.
Secondly, during a long period of inactivity or storage of batteries, their periodic discharge / charging is especially necessary. It is better to store the battery in a cool place, this will extend its life. The explanation is simple - the higher the temperature, the higher the rate of the chemical reaction (chemical reactions take place in the acid battery even during the idle period).
To fulfill these conditions, at least a minimum inventory is required:
Charging the battery in a car
(how to charge a maintenance-free battery on a car)
Many owners modern cars I am interested in the question: is it possible to charge a maintenance-free battery without removing it from the car (without disconnecting it from the on-board network)?
The presence of this issue is associated with the abundance of control and additional electronics. When the battery is removed, information from the memory of the RAM of the engine control unit is erased, climate control settings, radio settings, etc. are lost. Some advanced acustic systems after switching off the power supply, the control / operating program must be re-installed! (My friend once paid 2t.r. for installing an "operating system" on Karazeriya after removing the battery for recharging, and in addition, he traveled for 2 months without music).
In connection with the above, it is perhaps important to charge the maintenance-free battery directly on the car. Only in this case, several recommendations should be followed:
1) The car should be in a warm garage, as dry as possible;
2) Before starting charging, you should give an exposure for several hours in order to warm up the battery to room temperature (if before that the car was standing in the cold);
3) In the process of preparing for charging and during it, the ignition and all additional electrical devices connected in addition to the ignition must be turned off, or put into sleep mode;
4) Immediately before charging (perhaps in any case of charging), it is necessary to remove the parameters from the battery: the density of the electrolyte in the banks (if possible), the transparency of the electrolyte, the voltage on the brands of the battery. And based on them, imagine in advance what kind of charging the battery needs (full or partial);
5) The process of charging a battery on a car is similar to charging a removed battery, with the only difference that there are electrical conductive elements of the car in the immediate vicinity of the battery. Therefore, care must be taken. If, for example, out of habit, you close the hood and close the terminals of the charger with it, it will be very unpleasant (and possibly expensive). For the same reason, the charger should be connected to the stamps of the battery in the disconnected state and at the maximum reduced current. Then connect the charger to the network and gradually increase the battery charge current. In short, it is necessary to reduce as much as possible voltage surges when charging a battery in a car. Of course, a stable good contact between the charger and the battery must be ensured.
But let's start studying the process of charging a car battery directly:
Battery charging methods:
Each of the methods has its positive and negative sides:
Battery charging at constant current
The battery is charged at a constant charging current equal to:
I \u003d Q / 10 - for acid batteries,
I \u003d Q / 4 - for alkaline batteries, where Q is the nominal capacity of the battery (A * h), I is the average charging current, A.
Acid batteries are especially sensitive to deviations from the nominal charging parameters. It has been established that charging with an excessively high current leads to deformation of the plates and even to their destruction. The charging current recommended in the operating instructions of the battery ensures the optimal course of electrochemical processes in the battery and its normal operation for a long time.
The state of charge of the battery can be controlled by the values \u200b\u200bof the electrolyte density and voltage (for acid batteries) and only the voltage (for alkaline batteries). More details here ..
The end of charging an acid battery is characterized by the establishment of the voltage on one battery cell equal to 2.5-2.6 V.
Acid batteries are susceptible to undercharging and overcharging; therefore, complete charging in time.
Alkaline batteries are less critical to modes. For them, the end of charging is characterized by the establishment of a constant voltage of 1.6-1.7 V on one element.
Below we will consider charging acid batteries, since they are more common and more critical to operating and charging modes.
A regulating device is required to maintain a constant current throughout the charging process.
In addition, it is necessary to periodically measure the density and temperature of the electrolyte, as well as the battery voltage, in order to determine the end of the charge in time. If for 2 hours the density of the electrolyte and the voltage of the battery remain constant, and during charging, violent gas evolution is noticeable, the battery is fully charged.
The disadvantage of this method is the need for constant (every 1.5-2 hours) monitoring and regulation of the charging current, as well as abundant gas release at the end of the charge.
To reduce gas evolution and increase the state of charge of the battery, it is advisable to stepwise decrease the current strength as the charging voltage increases. When the voltage reaches 14.4 V, the charging current is halved (2.75 amperes for a 55 Ah battery) and at this current the charge is continued until gas evolution begins. When charging batteries last generation, which do not have holes for adding water, it is advisable to reduce the current by half when increasing the charging voltage to 15 V.
As mentioned above, a battery is considered fully charged when the current and voltage during charging remain unchanged for 1-2 hours.
When charging modern maintenance-free batteries, this state occurs at a voltage of 16.3-16.4 V, depending on the composition of the grid alloys and the purity of the electrolyte.
Usually, a new, put into working condition battery is charged from 3 to 8 hours. To prevent an explosion of gases released at the end of the charge, do not bring an open flame to the battery or disconnect the charger by disconnecting wires under load, do not use at this time load fork or a probe. If the temperature of the electrolyte during charging rises above + 45 ° C, stop charging and let the electrolyte cool down to + 30 ° C.
If at the end of the charge the electrolyte density turns out to be less or more than the required one, it is necessary to take a part of the electrolyte with a rubber bulb and add the same amount to the battery in the first case of a concentrated electrolyte with a density of 1.40 g / cm, and in the second - distilled water. Then continue charging for half an hour and check the density of the electrolyte again. Sometimes, several adjustments may be required before the electrolyte density is normal. However, in most cases this procedure not required.
As you can see, when charging by the constant current method, everything is done slowly, the battery is charged for a long time and must be constantly monitored.
When charging with a constant current, the surface of the electrode is first saturated, and this interferes with the development of the process in depth.
But there are times when you really need to drive, and the battery cannot start the engine. For car owners with manual box the way out is obvious - to start what is called "from the pusher". But the owners of cars with automatic transmission must either "light" at the donor's car, or quickly recharge their battery. Well, the charging method in this case will be called - "accelerated" or "forced".
Accelerated, or forced, battery charge.
Accelerated, or forced, charging of the battery serves the only purpose - in the shortest possible time to bring the discharged battery to a working state, which is achieved the use of high charging currents.
The method is similar to the previous one, with the only difference that the current when charging exceeds 10% of the battery capacity. As a rule, it is taken according to the maximum current issued by the charger (meaning the currently widespread car chargers), which is actually quite small and rarely exceeds 10-15A. However, you should not exceed the current equal to Q. Before charging, you should allow the battery to warm up to room temperature (in practice, as a rule, a forced charge is used in winter to start a frozen car), and during charging, if the electrolyte temperature rises above + 45 ° C, stop charging and let the electrolyte cool down to + 30 ° С.
Although it is permissible to overcharge the battery, try to avoid it, because its repetition significantly reduces the battery life and therefore we will not talk about accelerated charging in the future. Because The main purpose of the boost charge is to start the engine as soon as possible. As a rule, the battery is not charged until the full capacity is restored. For this reason, after solving the problems of paramount importance, the battery should be recharged using any of the proposed methods of "delicate" charging. Do not rely on the fact that a running car will recharge the battery to normal. As already mentioned, during the operation of a working car, the voltage in the on-board network is maintained at 13.9-14.4V, and 16.3-16.4V is needed to fully charge the battery. Chronic undercharging is extremely insidious. You operate the car as usual, you don't notice anything suspicious. At the same time, a 70-85% charged battery copes with its main duties (with a more or less serviceable engine). However, this will significantly reduce the battery life, and its reserve capacity will invariably decrease. Ultimately, you will feel this after a short parking with electrical appliances (lights, radio, etc.) on, but it will be too late.
If the situation forces you to resort to a forced charge (you urgently need to start the car), for the greatest efficiency of the measures taken, it is worth performing a number of more actions:
1) unscrew and blow out the glow plugs with a carburetor cleaner, then blow them out and dry them on the radiator (in no case, do not ignite expensive gas candles - this can kill them).
2) cover the engine and put any portable heating device under it (positioning it adequately from the point of view of fire safety).
3) it will not hurt to put the heater in the salon - it can improve your mood in the future.
4) clean the stamps of the battery and the corresponding stamps on the car.
5) in the first start attempt (10-20 seconds) keep the throttle fully open. Most engine management systems at this point turn on the purge mode, in which the injectors are turned off. This will help you remove excess gas from the combustion chambers and increase your chances of a successful engine start.
Battery test cycle
The control-training cycle of accumulator batteries (abbreviated as KTC) is as follows. The battery is fully charged with direct current, then discharged with a 10-hour current to a voltage of 10.2 V and again fully charged. This cycle allows you to estimate the actual capacity and real opportunities "Old" battery, and a series of cycles in some cases slightly improves electrical performance if the battery is still fit for further use.
You should not only carry out this operation unnecessarily, since each CTC takes away a part of the battery life. The principle here is as follows: during its life, the battery can give a very definite amount of energy, and each full discharge corresponds to about 0.5 1.0% of this amount.
Battery charging at constant voltage
When charging by this method, the state of charge of the battery at the end of the charge directly depends on the value of the charging voltage provided by the charger. So, for example, in 24 hours of continuous charge at a voltage of 14.4 V, a 12-volt battery will be charged by 75-85%, at a voltage of 15 V - by 85-90%, and at a voltage of 16 V - by 95-97%. The battery can be fully charged within 20-24 hours with the charger voltage 16.3-16.4 V.
At the first moment of switching on, the charging current can reach a large value, depending on the internal resistance (capacity) of the battery. Therefore, the charger is equipped with circuitry that limits the maximum charging current.
As the charge proceeds, the voltage at the terminals of the battery gradually approaches the voltage of the charger, and the value of the charging current, accordingly, decreases and approaches zero at the end of the charge (if the value of the charging voltage of the rectifier is lower than the voltage of the beginning of gas evolution). This allows you to produce a charge without human participation in completely automatic mode... Usually, the criterion for the end of the charge in such devices is the achievement of the voltage at the terminals of the battery when it is charged, equal to 14.4 + 0.1 V. However, for a satisfactory (90-95%) charge of modern maintenance-free batteries using industrial chargers that have the maximum charging voltage is 14.4 h-14.5 V, it will take more than a day.
Undoubtedly, this method is very convenient, since there is no need to regulate the charging current and monitor the state of the battery during charging, there is no gas emission from the battery. But you cannot fully charge the battery in this way... Therefore, using mainly the method of charging the battery at a constant voltage, try to periodically combine it with a full charge at a constant current strength.
The constant current and constant voltage battery charging methods are equivalent in terms of their effect on battery life. From the point of view of the depth and completeness of the charge, the first method is better. But this method requires more time and constant monitoring of the charging process. Charging the battery at a constant voltage, although it does not fully charge the battery, allows you to keep it in working condition. In this way, the battery is also charged on the car (13.9-14.4V).
Which method of charging a maintenance-free battery to use is, of course, a matter of taste, but it is better to take the time and charge the battery at a constant amperage or alternate between these methods.
In the process of operation, the plates of car batteries gradually sulfate, this increasingly reduces the capacity of the battery. The most effective ways to combat sulfation is to alternately charge and discharge the battery or pass a so-called "asymmetric" charging current through it.
Charging the battery with impulse current
Under impulse charge battery implies the use of a current that changes its value or voltage periodically, at regular intervals. By the nature of these indicators, the pulsed current is divided into two types: pulsating and asymmetric (see below for an explanation).
Ripple charging
Figure: 1.1. Charge with a pulsating current: Сз - capacity imparted to the battery during the pulse time t.
A pulsating current is called one in which the value changes from zero to the maximum value, while maintaining its polarity unchanged. An example of a ripple current characteristic is shown in Fig. 1.1.
Asymmetrical charging
Asymmetric, or reversible, current is determined by the presence of a reverse amplitude (see example in Fig. 1.2), in other words, in each cycle it changes its polarity. However, the amount of electricity flowing with direct polarity is greater than with reverse polarity (the ratio of the charging and discharging components is 10: 1, and the pulse duration is 1: 2), which ensures the battery charge.
Figure: 1.2. Charge with asymmetric current: Сз - capacity imparted to the battery during the pulse time t3; Ср - capacity taken from the battery during the pulse time tp.
This method allows not only to restore the performance of sulphated storage batteries, but also to carry out preventive treatment of serviceable ones.
Woodbridge battery charging (amp-hour rule)
In 1953, Woodbridge formed the so-called law of ampere-hours, the value of the charging current of the battery (in amperes) should not exceed the value of the charge missing to the full capacity (in ampere-hours).
A simple and very useful rule that I try to adhere to.
You can read about the well-known methods of restoring the capacity of rechargeable batteries and how to make a charger yourself. on the second page of this article.
