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It is imperative for car owners to monitor the condition of their vehicles so that their operation is as safe as possible. A very common problem with a car is steering to the side when driving, accelerating and braking. Today we will tell you about the causes of such malfunctions and the rules for their elimination.

1 Why the steering wheel is misleading - common reasons

If the car pulls to the right, you need to find out the reasons as soon as possible. This is a very dangerous malfunction, due to which a lot of efforts have to be made to move along a given route, which exhaust a person and reduce his attention to the situation on the road.

Very often, improperly inflated tires are the cause of the steering wheel to the side. For even and direct movement vehicle on the road, there must be equal pressure in the wheels of one axle, otherwise a roll to one side will occur. If the steering wheel pulls to the left, then the front right wheel weaker pumped than the left one. Fortunately, checking the pressure is very easy; use a pressure gauge to do this. The pressure in the wheels of one axle should not differ by more than 0.5 atmospheres. Otherwise, the tires should be inflated.






Another common cause of sideways drift is worn rubber. "Bald" tires and tires with significant defects can cause spontaneous wheel rotation. To identify this problem, carefully inspect the tires and check the amount of wear. If the increased wear is confirmed, the tires will have to be replaced.

A more serious problem is the violation of the geometry of the body. By itself, such a malfunction does not appear, it is possible only for cars that have been in serious accidents. In addition, the car drifting to the side may appear after poor-quality adjustment of the camber. If the adjustment has not been carried out for a long time, the steering wheel can be pulled to the right or left.

Problems can also appear due to backlash in the steering mechanism. The allowable backlash rate on passenger cars is 10 degrees, but even with such a deviation, letting go of the steering wheel, you will feel that the car is being pulled to the side. If the backlash is more severe, it is prohibited to operate the vehicle.

You can correct some of the described defects yourself, while others require contacting specialized service centers. However, this list of problems is not exhaustive. Steering malfunctions are very diverse, the steering wheel can go away due to bends of the steering rack, problems with rollers, rods and other elements of the mechanism. To accurately diagnose the malfunctions in your car, we recommend contacting a service station.

2 What affects the car's sideways movement during acceleration and braking?

If your car drifts away when braking, you should definitely check brake system... Often the cause is an air leak or a problem with the cylinder on one side. We recommend that you first bleed the brake system, and only if this does not help, start checking the cylinders. When the pistons of the cylinders are released when the brake is pressed, they do not come out, or traces are noticeable on them brake fluid, the cylinders will have to be replaced with new ones.

Differences in wheel angles can also cause the problem when braking. If the camber and caster angles are seriously violated, the steering wheel may turn towards a smaller caster angle when the brake pedal is pressed. This problem is easy enough to identify, since when the car moves in a straight line, it does not go to the side due to the compensation of one parameter by the other: due to the longitudinal tilt of the rack, the steering wheel pulls in one direction, and because of the camber - in the other, which leads to balancing them.

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The drift of a front-wheel drive car during acceleration is possible if there are spacers on the front springs to raise the nose. In this case, the steering wheel can be pulled to the side with a longer drive, since the axle shafts work at an angle, and on a long drive, the centrifugal force vector will be higher. Drivers encounter such problems only during acceleration, but they are not present during smooth movement.




Steering problems are not limited to the possible sideways movement of the vehicle. Often, handling decreases due to the fact that the steering wheel becomes heavy, it is difficult to turn it. If the steering wheel does not lead and the rubber does not wear out, the problem may lie in the fact that during execution renovation works tight tie rods were installed or ball joints... It is also possible that the pendulum arm or steering rack has been overtightened. Constraints should be brought back to normal, and difficulties with tight steering rods will disappear over time due to stabilization.

Difficulties with the steering wheel can also arise due to improper adjustment of the camber, if the experts have made a too large camber angle. The same consequences occur due to the discrepancy between the width of the tires and the manufacturer's recommended standards. Because of too wide tires the contact of the wheel with the road increases and its friction increases. Too low air pressure can also cause a "tight" steering wheel. Typically, this effect occurs at a pressure level below 1.2 atmospheres.

3 What to do if a roll appears after adjusting the camber?

Problems with the car often appear after performing similar camber. In such a situation, we recommend checking the tire slip effect by swapping the front wheels. If, after the work done, the roll changes direction, you will need to go to the tire shop and change the shoes of one of the front wheels backwards (so that the outer side of the wheel becomes the inner one).

If you have directional tires, you can swap wheels temporarily to confirm the reason for the slip. If it's really a matter of tires, the front wheels need to be swapped with the rear wheels and find a pair to fit forward, on which your car will drive smoothly. Recently, motorists have encountered such a problem very often, the whole point is in defects in the production of wheels. Due to various violations of the tire carcass, elastic deformations can occur, in which the rubber on one side of the wheel is softer than on the other.




Quite often, the car begins to drift to the side due to imbalance of the wheels, or rather, curvature wheel rims... In this case, you will have to do balancing. In some cases, car owners only adjust the drive axle. If after this there is a slip problem, the rear axle should also be checked. It is likely that it also needs customization. There may also be defects in the chassis of the machine that were not identified before adjusting the camber.

4 What causes wheel alignment changes?

It is believed that the wheel alignment angles on the car can only be changed after the chassis has been repaired or the car has been involved in an accident. But this is not the case; the same effect can occur for other reasons. The wheel alignment angles directly depend on the ground clearance - ground clearance... The ground clearance can change with the aging of the machine, since during operation, individual elastic suspension elements sag (springs, silent blocks). In the pivot joints of the suspension, over time, microscopic gaps can appear and accumulate, which can give tangible changes in the angles of the wheels installed.

The change is also possible due to the natural aging of the car body. During operation, the body experiences constant vibrations, as well as exposure to the environment... All this can change the geometry of the body and cause wheel angles to change. For example, on the new Zhiguli caster ( longitudinal tilt kingpin) is set at 3.5-4 degrees. Over time (usually 3-4 years), this figure will drop to 2-2.5 degrees. In fairness, it should be noted that other domestic and foreign cars endure knot aging in the same way.

5 Going to a car service - how to prepare?

Prepare your car before going to the car service. Firstly, you need to go to the camber only if the tires of the same pattern and size are installed on wheels. All tires and wheels must be identical in their characteristics. This is especially important if you need to make adjustments on a computer stand. Secondly, the installed discs must fully comply with the requirements of the car manufacturer. Thirdly, the pressure in all wheels must be checked and adjusted according to the recommendations from the manual.




If you want to adjust the camber due to the purchase of a new set of tires, do not rush to replace the wheels with new ones. First, you need to diagnose the chassis and eliminate the identified problems. It is not uncommon for car owners to "change their shoes", come to a car service, where they find serious problems with the chassis or steering. It is good if the malfunctions can be eliminated immediately, but because of the high cost of parts and their possible absence in the warehouse, you may have to ride on new tires without camber, and this will lead to severe wear of the installed wheels.

Before visiting the service, we recommend that you remember what position the steering wheel takes when the car is moving in a straight line, and recalculate the number of revolutions required for maximum left or right turn. If the number of revolutions is not the same, be sure to focus your master's attention on this. We advise you to clarify before handing over the car to the master complete list services you pay for. It is highly desirable that, in addition to the camber, you check the caster, the offset of the rear and front axles.

6 Wheel alignment procedure - we understand the features

Adjustment of the camber should be performed only by professional craftsmen, but you will not be superfluous to understand this procedure. Before starting work, an experienced foreman must inspect the machine, diagnose the chassis and check the pressure in all wheels. If at this stage any shortcomings are revealed, the master must notify the client and not perform wheel alignment until all problems are eliminated.

An obligatory part of the work performed is an operation called wheel rim runout compensation. All rims have geometric distortions and deformations of different sizes. They can negatively affect the results of the adjustment, therefore they must first be compensated. To do this, hang out the front or rear axle of the car, after which special devices are hung on the wheels so that they regulate each wheel separately. The exceptions are cases when wheel alignment is adjusted at the most modern stands, in which compensation is performed without hanging the bridges by rolling the car.

In the next step, the foreman must diagnose the geometry of the entire chassis and identify its shortcomings. And then, depending on the results obtained, the wheel alignment is corrected. When choosing a car service, many car owners disagree about which stand it is better to perform the similarity collapse through - through optical or computer. Optical stands are easy to use and reliable. But in terms of accuracy, they are much inferior to modern computer counterparts. The disadvantage of such stands is the ability to diagnose only one axis at a time. Because of this, the camber is checked only on the drive axle, forgetting about the rear axle, which can also significantly affect the car's handling.

On a computer stand, the check can be performed on both bridges at once, check their position in relation to each other. It allows the technician to easily identify all faults and imperfections in the geometry of the body. After computer adjustment, you can get a printout of preliminary diagnostics and adjustment results.

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Most motorists at least once had to deal with the following malfunction: while driving, the car pulls to the left or right. This is a fairly common "jamb" of a car, and no car is insured against it, even the most expensive and new one. It is highly undesirable to drive with such a malfunction. Firstly, it is constant discomfort, secondly, it is a constant load on the hands, and thirdly, it is simply dangerous, since it significantly increases the risk of skidding. Needless to say, in addition to these troubles, there is one more - the rubber of the wheels will wear out very quickly, and unevenly. Such tires can only be thrown into the trash, they cannot be restored.

Many unscrupulous car services and smart-ass mechanics try to cash in on this at the expense of the client. For example, a young lady comes to the service on her typewriter, and they say to her, “Ooh, dear, but everything is bad with you. It is necessary to change ... "and then who has enough imagination for that: silent blocks, and levers, and tips of steering rods, and brake discs, and brake calipers assembly, bearings in the hub assembly, and even steering rack... And much more.

In fact, in 90% of cases, the breakdown is penny, and in half of the cases it is not a breakdown at all.

I will list the procedure for identifying and eliminating "steering slip" at the increasing cost and complexity of the repair.

1. Check tire pressure. It is checked with a trifling pressure gauge, if it is not there, drive up to the first tire fitting, there they will check it for 10-20-30 rubles and, if necessary, pump it up. For the vast majority passenger cars the pressure should be somewhere between 1.9 and 2.3 atmospheres. Look at the technical book on your car, and if it is not there, then download 2.1 atmospheres - you can't go wrong. The main thing is that the pressure in all tires is the same. It is the unevenly inflated wheels that lead to the car drifting to the side.

2. Look carefully at the front wheels - if there is uneven wear on them, then the reason for the slip to the side is most likely precisely this. If you bought a used rubber, or bought a used car on which there was already some kind of rubber, then it is quite possible that simply bad tires... As an experiment, you can try to swap the front and rear wheels, in 30% of cases this removes the problem. But in any case, I recommend doing the camber adjustment.

3. The car may be pulled to the side if there are different tires on the front wheels. For example, with a different tread pattern or with the same pattern, but different tread depth (this also happens: for example, one is old, and the second was disfigured and replaced with the same, but new)

4. Make wheel alignment adjustment. Very often, incorrect wheel alignment causes the steering wheel to slip.

5. Diagnose the brakes, especially the front brakes. It is possible that one of the brake cylinders "soured" and simply does not fully expand. As a result, he constantly slows down slightly and takes the car in the same direction. Check how the wheels are spinning, lift the car on a lift and turn the wheels by hand - they should spin evenly, without jamming. And with the same effort. Listen - if you can hear the friction of the brake disc on the brake pad when scrolling, or even better - try to slip a sheet of paper between brake disc and a shoe. So check all 4 front wheel pads. If a sheet of paper passes freely into the gap between the disc and the pad, everything is in order. But just in case, press the brake pedal several times and run the sheet of paper again. If somewhere the sheet is suddenly stuck, there is a problem. Then it all depends on your wallet and mentality. You can clean the calipers and brake discs for the purpose of "deoxidation". This procedure will reanimate the brakes anywhere from 2 months to a year (depending on the thoroughness of the inspection, and on the condition of the calipers and cylinders). Or you can buy new brake cylinders... They are often sold with caliper assemblies, so this is not the cheapest procedure. The only thing, keep in mind that if you decide to change the brake cylinder for a new one, you will have to buy two wheels at once. I highly discourage changing only one cylinder or caliper! The old and the new will definitely work with different efforts, and there is nothing worse than this, because it will really lead to uncontrollable skid literally out of the blue and on clean asphalt! For the same reason, if you decide to "dehydrate" the cylinder, then carry out the same procedure for the cylinder on the other wheel. The main thing is that they slow down the same way.

6. If the first 5 points have been done and there is no result, then it's time to turn on the "heavy artillery". Carry out a complete diagnosis of the chassis, including landing wheel bearings into the pins. Probability of the cause of the malfunction, descending:
— steering (big backlash in the crosspiece or in the steering rack)
- steering tips (perhaps they are simply incorrectly adjusted)
- one or more levers (perhaps they are slightly bent due to collision with some kind of obstacle)

When driving a car, completely different situations can arise. Problems associated with the vehicle drifting to the side when straight motion, Not unusual. Drivers have unpleasant sensations that may even scare them. Our today's article will be devoted to the causes of such problems, as well as tips on how to diagnose and fix them yourself.

How does this happen?

You can feel that the car is being pulled to the side on any flat road. The car owner will feel it immediately. The steering wheel of the vehicle will constantly pull to the right or left, and to keep the car in a level position, you will have to constantly steer.

In no case should you put up with the problem. It's not even that this phenomenon complicates the control of a car or forces you to constantly perform additional actions. It is important to find out the root causes of this behavior of the machine as soon as possible. In most cases, it is caused by a serious suspension problem that can make the vehicle unsafe to operate.

There can be a lot of reasons. We will try to focus on those that are most common.

Why does the car go to the side?

If your vehicle starts to pull to the side while driving, it is worth remembering what happened to your car lately. Maybe there was a hit of a wheel in a hole or you recently visited a tire service, which provoked the appearance of unpleasant symptoms.

The increased intensity of trips also has a certain effect. With sharp temperature changes on poor-quality roads, the car also often begins to behave unpredictably. Malfunctions are caused by poor condition of components and main suspension parts. Because of this, the quality of the adhesion of the tires to the roadway deteriorates, and the car begins to drift in different directions.

How to independently diagnose the causes of malfunctions?

• If you begin to notice problems while driving, the first thing to start looking for the reasons for this behavior is to inspect the wheels of the car. Rate how worn out its rubber is. Pay attention to the uniformity of wear, not only on one of the tires, but not on the wheels of the same axle relative to each other. Concentrate on the front pair. Often it is she who is the culprit of the car being pulled to the side. If your concerns about the condition of the tires are confirmed, you have a direct road to the wheel alignment stand.
• The second factor can be the difference in tire pressure. In order for the car to go strictly straight, each of the wheels on one axle must be inflated equally. Even a slight variation in pressure readings (0.3-0.5 atmospheres) will become very noticeable while driving.
• Confusion with the installation of directional rubber can be another reason. Manufacturers always indicate the vector of its rolling on the side of the tire. You may not pay attention to this fact, but it will show itself in motion. Here, let's talk about the tread pattern. It must be identical. Wear tires different brands on one axle is not only dangerous but also illegal.

  It will not be superfluous to perform wheel balancing. Violation of the installation of weights installed on the wheel rim can cause not only runout, but also drift of the car. You shouldn't underestimate this seemingly trifle. Better to visit a tire shop and fix the problem.

• The third area of ​​self-diagnosis, which needs to be paid close attention, are vehicle brakes. It happens that the symptoms we indicated appear due to the wedging of the brake cylinder or one of the pads. It will not be superfluous to inspect and parking brake... His cable often gets stuck.

  The brake cylinders begin to "play up" mainly due to the swollen cuff. It needs to be replaced as needed. Increased contamination of the cylinder walls or the appearance of corrosive foci also contributes to their wedging. To eliminate the problem, the mechanism will have to be disassembled, rust removed, dirt cleaned, all interacting surfaces well lubricated, and rubber boots replace.

If you looked at everything thoroughly, but did not find the obvious reasons for the problems, most likely your car has serious wear on some of the suspension parts. The malfunction may lie in the steering mechanism, including the hydraulic or electric booster. We would not recommend trying to identify and fix them yourself. In such a situation, it is better to trust specialized specialists with a certain set of equipment, knowledge and colossal practical experience.

What is the bottom line?

At the end of the article, we urge car owners to approach the pulling of a car to the side very scrupulously. Do not postpone the elimination until later. For starters, at least do your own diagnostics. She may well answer some of your questions. More complex malfunctions can be repaired on their own, but subject to the availability of the necessary knowledge and the appropriate tool. If you don't have anything like that, go to the professionals. They will carry out the work with high quality, without charging you extra money for repairs.

What is this service?

If the car is pulled to the side when braking, then the brake on the opposite side is out of order: that is, if the car turns to the right, then its left side does not brake and vice versa.
Also, the car drifts to the side is observed when the rear wheels brake more actively than the front wheels, and as a result, a skid occurs, which is especially dangerous in winter on slippery roads.

Therefore, at the slightest sensation of the car moving to the side during braking, you need to check the serviceability of the brake system: the presence of brake fluid in the system, the tightness of the brake hoses and pipes. All work on checking and eliminating malfunctions in the operation of the brake system must be carried out symmetrically - everything that was done on one side of the car must be done on the other.

Driving the car to the side during braking is associated with the influence of short-term forces on different sides of the car only when braking. These are pronounced signs associated with damage to one of the vehicle systems:

• Brake;
• Undercarriage;
• Steering control.

This may be natural wear and tear, or it may be the result of using low-quality parts. Destruction of the metal matrix is ​​also possible due to frequent or very strong blows. Most of the problems are eliminated not only by replacement, but also accompanied by a set of measures, for example, bleeding the brake system and changing the fluid.

The reason that when braking, the car leads to the side, there may be air entering the brake system or a malfunction of the brake cylinders on one side, which is accompanied.

To make an accurate diagnosis, a step-by-step diagnosis is carried out, since often the reasons can be multifaceted.

Keep in mind

If the car drifts to the side during braking, this can turn out to be one of the serious problems with the brakes - air ingress into the system, and this is an indicator of depressurization and, accordingly, leakage of the fluid itself - as a result of brake failure.

In addition, the reasons for such a malfunction may be:

• Wedging pads and caliper guides;
• Oxidation or lack of sealing of the brake cylinders;
• Damage to brake lines and brake hoses;
• The surfaces of pads, discs or drums getting wet with water or leakage of brake fluid;
• ABS malfunction.

The car "leads" to the left or right when braking

If there is a drift of the car to the side during braking, contact a professional diagnostician.

How important is it

It is not recommended to continue driving with a faulty steering wheel.

Signs indicating that you need this service

• Wear brake pads, brake discs or calipers
• Uneven tire pressure
• Worn suspension parts (hub bearings, lower ball joints, external links)

Answers to the most frequently asked questions about similarity collapse.

Why is the steering wheel uneven when driving in a straight line?

If, in addition to tilting the steering wheel, there is a side shift on the car at the same time, then first you need to find and eliminate the cause of the steering, and then look at the true position of the steering wheel.

Possible reasons:

1.Increased free run steering wheel (play in the steering mechanism). When driving, free play is selected to the left or right, which leads to a slight tilt of the steering wheel. The permissible free play of the steering wheel is 5 °.

2.The car has some displacement rear axle(rear axle). Only the front axle camber was adjusted without taking into account the displacement of the rear axle (the problem of outdated optical stands).

3 too much difference in camber rear wheels... Especially when one wheel has positive camber and the other negative.

4. Big difference in pressure of front or rear wheels.

5. There are hidden defects in the chassis, which for some reason were not detected before the camber adjustment.

6. Defects of rubber are possible. It is necessary to swap the right and left wheels if the steering wheel changes its

position in mirror image - flip the tire on one of the front wheels.

The car is taken to the side, but the camber is not adjustable, can something be done?

Camber adjustment- wheel alignment on vehicles with MacPherson type suspension ( Macpherson ) carried out using racks. If the holes on the posts are oval, then the bolts are loosened and rounded fist together in the wheel moves at a given angle. But on many cars (Mitsubishi, Nissan, Hyundai, Kiaand etc.) the camber angle is not adjustable as the holes on the struts are round, not oval. In this case, you can bore holes and adjust the camber angle.

As a rule, this problem has to be solved in this way on cars with right-hand drive, the camber angle of which is "sharpened" for left-hand traffic of cars (road slope), or on cars with deformed steering knuckles.

NS why with braking takes the car away sideways right or left

?

If the car drifts to the side when braking, you need to check the car's braking system. Drift is usually caused by air in the brake system or a faulty brake cylinder on one side. First you need to bleed the brake system, if this does not help, check the brake cylinders. If, when you press the brake pedal, the pistons of the cylinders do not come out or, on the contrary, do not "release", or there are traces of brake fluid leakage, then the cylinders need to be replaced.

Another reason for the vehicle to slip to the side when braking can be a large difference in wheel alignment. If the camber and caster angles are severely violated, and with different signs, then the steering wheel during braking can turn towards a smaller caster angle of the rack (kingpin). At the same time, when driving in a straight line, the car does not take away due to the compensation of one parameter by another, that is, due to the collapse, it pulls in one direction, and because of the PNSh in the other, and they are balanced.

NSwhy when overclockingcarpulls to the right

?

Havethe water of a front-wheel drive car can be if there are spacers on the front springs (the nose is pulled up), and it will pulltowards the longer drive (the axle shafts start to work at an angle, and on a long drive the centrifugal force vectorthere will be more). In this case, drift is felt during acceleration, but not during straight, uniform movement.On domestic VAZ 2108 - VAZ 2110 car drift to the right is set "by default". Influence itpossible by changing the longitudinal tilt of the rack (castra) ... Those. on the right, you need to pull out one, and sometimes two washers, or put the same amount on the left. On many foreign cars (VW, Mazda, Ford)to compensate for this effect, the manufacturer places a damping weight on the axle shaft.

Why does the car lead to the side after the collapse?

1.Check the effect of the rubber on the drift. To do this, swap the left and right front wheels. If the drift changes its direction at the same time, then the reason is in the rubber. Go to the tire shop and refurbishone thingfrom the front wheels back to front, i.e. to inner side became external. If the tires are directional, then you can swap the wheels for a while to check if the problems are in the tires. If this is indeed the case, thenchangee wheelswith rearand look for a couple,on which the car will go smoothly. This reason for withdrawal has recently been encountered very often (and, not surprisingly, even on imported rubber). The problem is in the quality of workmanship. - these are violations of the tire carcass, as a result of which various elastic deformations occur (roughly speaking, on one side, rubber is softer than on the other). By the way, beating in the "steering wheel" can occur for the same reason.

2. Increased wheel imbalance. Wheel curvature- try balancing.

3. Only the front axle of the vehicle was diagnosed and adjusted. The rear axle needs to be checked. Perhaps the reason lies in it (defOrmaciand datals, violation of regulations).

4. There are hidden defects in the chassis that were not found before the camber adjustment.

Before the adjustment, the car did not lead anywhere,wasincreased rubber wear. After adjustment "camber-convergence"there was a diversion to the side.

Most likely the reason is the rubber (see paragraph above). The car used to drive exactly because the slip created by the rubber was balanced by the slip created by the wrongand corners"similarity collapsea"to the other side. Eliminated one reason - there was a withdrawal.

The car does not drive, rubber does not "eat", but the car is too heavy to drive ("tight" steering wheel).

1.During repairs, tight ball joints or tie rods are installed, the pendulum arm or the steering gear (steering rack) will be tightened. Over time, everything can stabilize by itself, except for the constrictions (they need to be brought back to normal).

2. Incorrectly adjusted "camber" (too large camber angle).

3.The width of the tires does not correspond to the recommended by the manufacturer, as a result of which the contact patch with the road increases and increases friction.

4.Low air pressure in tires (pressure less than 1.2 atm). Problems 2,3,4 - an increase in the contact patch with the road - as a result of the "tight steering wheel".

Why, over time, the wheel alignment angles on the car are violated, even if there was no repair of the chassis and the car did not get into emergency situations?

1.As you know, the wheel alignment angles directly depend on the vehicle's ground clearance (ground clearance), and the ground clearance, in turn, has a feature to vary depending on the age of the vehicle. This is due to the subsidence of the elastic suspension elements: springs, silent blocks, body elements.

2. The appearance and accumulation of microscopic gaps in the hinge joints of the suspension, which, when folded together, give tangible changes in the angles.

3. Natural aging of the body (for cars with a monocoque body), due to the fact that it experiences constant bending and torsion moments during operation, which leads to a gradual change in its "geometry" and in turn-- to change the angles of camber-convergence.For example, on new Zhiguli, the longitudinal inclination of the kingpin (caster) is set to 3.5-4° , but after 2-3 years this figure will be 2-2.5° ... By the way, the same trend is visible on all cars, regardless of the manufacturer, the difference is only in the quantitative component.

Reasons for moving the car away from straight-line movement:

• similarity collapse is broken;
• different pressure in the wheels (more than 0.5 atm.);
• different pattern and width of the tread in the right and left wheels;
• uneven tire wear;
• wedging brake pads or handbrake cable;
• deformation of suspension parts or body elements (deformation of the side members);
• faulty CV joints (rare, but it happens);
• the power steering is faulty (one valve does not work);
• the wheels are sharpened at different angles (when changing shoes, the wheels need to be marked, if one wheel last season was front, and the other was rear and now they stand on the same axis, then the car will most likely pull, even after similar collapse);
• deformation of the wheel frame (it happens even on new wheels) is checked by replacing the right wheel with the left one, if the car's drift has changed to the opposite, then the reason is in the rubber. In this case, one of the front wheels must be thrown backwards so that the inside of the tire becomes the outside;
• faulty (wedging) upper supports of the struts, as a result of which the spring, when turning, "jumps" along the cup of the upper support, with a characteristic click, and does not rotate with it. Moreover, if the wheels are turned all the way to the right, the car starts to drive to the right, if you turn to the left, then the withdrawal will be to the left. The problem is usually found on Muscovites 2141 and Audi 100.
• wheel alignment parameters for "right-hand drive" cars with non-adjustable camber. As a rule, it is corrected with the help of "non-standard works" (see the price page).

Good camber has always been a problem for motorists. Now similarity collapse is done on every corner. There is a collapse in almost every workshop. Many of them are equipped with the latest technology. And finding a worthy master is still often a problem for the client. Therefore, the main selection criterion was and remains information received from friends and acquaintances, and not advertising on the streets and in newspapers.

So, you need to make an alignment disorder. What should be done before visiting the service?

Tires on the left and right must have the same dimension and pattern.

All four wheel rim must be exactly the same in all parameters (landing diameter, width, overhang). This condition is especially important for adjustments on computer stands for setting the position of the steering wheel.

Disk parameters must match technical requirements your car. So, for example, it is undesirable to put on VAZ-08 (09) discs from the "classic" and vice versa, since they have different overhangs, which leads to a change in the wheel run-in shoulder specified by the suspension design. The same will happen when using Volgov disks on the Niva and, in general, disks with a departure larger than the standard one, this leads to premature wear of bearings and suspension hinges

If your desire to make similar camber is associated with the installation of a new set of rubber, then do not rush to install the rubber on the car until you properly defect undercarriage and do not correct the problem. Often there are cases when a client, having changed his shoes, arrives at the collapse, and the master finds some kind of malfunction in him that does not allow this operation to be performed. It is good if this defect can be eliminated on the spot, but it so happens that the malfunction is of a more global nature, which does not allow it to be eliminated right away, since it requires large material costs from the client or time for ordering spare parts. And he has to drive a certain amount of time on new tires without camber, which sometimes leads to wear of the new rubber.

Pay attention to what position the steering wheel of your car takes when driving in a straight line and whether it has the same number of revolutions to the left and right of this position. Subsequently, focus the wizard's attention on this information.

Equalize the pressure in the wheels according to the instructions.

Of course, we track all of the above points ourselves, but this, as they say, should be on the conscience of the car owner. After all, we will not install new disks and wheels for you ...

So, you are already at the gates of the car service. If you are here for the first time and none of your friends have been here either, then the main task is not to run into an outright "get on". One tip:

Find out how much work is included in the proposed rates. Until now, there are still "reserves", where they are limited only to collapse and convergence, and they have not heard of caster or even a rumor, not to mention the displacements of the front and rear axles, etc.

Camber adjustment process

Before starting the adjustment experienced master must carefully inspect the car, diagnose the running gear, check the pressure in the wheels. If deficiencies are found, notify the client and postpone the implementation of the CP until the malfunctions are eliminated.

Mandatory part of preparatory operations is the operation of "wheel rim runout compensation". Almost any wheel disc has geometric distortions. To eliminate the influence of these distortions on the adjustment results, the "compensation" operation is performed. Outwardly, it looks like this: the front (or rear) axle of the car is hung out, the devices are hung on the wheels, and each device is individually adjusted for the wheel on which it is located. In principle, it is not necessary for an ordinary motorist to know these subtleties. But if you suddenly notice that the master missed this operation, this should alert you. Exceptions are stands last generation(the so-called 3D technology), where "compensation" is made without hanging the bridges, but by rolling the car back and forth.

The next stage: general diagnostics of the chassis geometry according to the readings of the instruments and identification of deficiencies that can affect the stability and controllability of the vehicle, regardless of the quality of the camber adjustment (displacement of the side members, displacement of bridges, etc.).

The concept of SR includes not only the adjustment of the camber and toe-in, but also the measurement and, if possible, the adjustment of several more parameters, which I described above.

Optics, laser or computer?

The client is always faced with the question of where to go: to the optical or to the computer stand? I will resolve the eternal disputes on this topic: you can do EQUALLY BAD on both the first and the second. Ultimately, everything depends on the skill of the "razor" and on the love with which he relates to his equipment and, in general, to his profession. The stand can be the coolest, but if it does not pass regular checks and is not properly calibrated, then all its accuracy is nullified.

Optical stands are simpler, but reliable in operation. True, the measurement accuracy is an order of magnitude lower. A significant disadvantage of optical stands is that it can diagnose only one axis at a time (front or rear). As a rule, only the "front" is done and we do not see what is happening with the rear axle. Meanwhile, errors in the rear axle angles can affect the handling and stability of the car several times more than front axle... On the optical stand, a very important parameter is not visible - the rotation of the rear axle, which sets the so-called. the "angle of motion" of the vehicle. Therefore, when adjusting on an optical stand, there is always the possibility that the steering wheel will have some inclination when the vehicle is moving in a straight line.

A closed-loop computer stand is free from this drawback. In addition, on it a knowledgeable specialist can easily identify all the flaws in the geometry of the body (was the car in an accident or not), since both axles are diagnosed simultaneously, their relative position in relation to the axis of symmetry of the car (rotation, displacement, etc.). But I will make a reservation right away: there are computer stands with an open measurement circuit and stands of old years of production with imperfect programs. Their functionality is much lower than the previous ones. Therefore, you need to know where to go.

Another "plus" of the computer adjustment is to obtain a documentary printout of the adjustment results. Another thing is that not everyone is able to understand what these or those parameters printed there mean.

The most common malfunctions that appear after adjusting the camber

The steering wheel began to stand unevenly when driving in a straight line

There are several reasons:
1. Increased steering free play. Toe-camber was performed without taking into account this moment and when driving, the free stroke is selected to the left or right, which leads to a slight tilt of the steering wheel.
2. The car has a turn of the rear axle. The SR was performed on an optical stand (it does not see and does not take into account this parameter), or on a computer stand, but with the function of measuring the angle of movement of the vehicle turned off.
3. Different pressures in the tires of the front or rear wheels.
4. There are hidden defects in the chassis, which for some reason were not found during the troubleshooting thereof.
5. Sometimes there are cases when the steering wheel changes the angle of its position even with the usual rearrangement of the front wheels among themselves.
Note: If, in addition to the tilt of the steering wheel, there is a simultaneous drift of the car to the side, then first you need to find and eliminate the cause of the drift, and then look at the true position of the steering wheel.

Vehicle drifts to the side when driving in a straight line

1. Check the effect of the front tires on drift, even though you have new rubber... Swap the left and right front wheels. If the withdrawal at the same time changes in the opposite direction, then the matter is in the rubber. Run the wheels in a circle and look for a pair on which the car will go smoothly. This reason for withdrawal has recently been encountered very often. The quality of workmanship is to blame for everything. As experts say, this is the so-called. power inhomogeneity of the tire carcass.
2. When performing SR, only the front axle of the vehicle was diagnosed. Need to make a diagnosis rear suspension... Perhaps the reason lies in it (curvature, deformation, displacement, etc.).
3. There are hidden defects in the chassis that were not detected during the diagnostics.
4. Poorly executed SR. Demand to redo.

Power steering malfunctions and remedies

Malfunction symptom	Causes of malfunction	Remedies
Unstable movement of the car on the road (regular steering is required) and knocking in the steering mechanism	1. The presence of a gap in the engagement "" nut - piston - toothed sector of the bipod shaft " 2. Backlash in the splined connection of the bipod with the bipod shaft. 3. Looseness of fastening of the steering mechanism to the side member.	1. Adjust the meshing clearances. 2. Tighten the bipod mounting nut. 3. Tighten the fastening parts.
Increased steering effort	1. Insufficient tension of the pump drive belt. 2. Defective pump.	1. Tighten the belt. 2. Replace the pump.
An abrupt change in the effort on the steering wheel when it rotates or a sticking of the steering wheel when the direction of its rotation is changed	1. The presence of air in hydraulic system(cloudy oil, foam in the reservoir) 2. Clogged pump valves.	1. Bleed the hydraulic system. 2. Flush the valve.
Increased noise in the power steering system	1. Insufficient oil level in the reservoir 2. Air in the hydraulic system.	1. Add oil. 2. Bleed the hydraulic system.
Increase in the noise of the system in the extreme positions of the steering wheel, when the stops on the bipod touch the side members	1. The pump has partially lost its performance (the working ends of the pumping set parts are lifted up)	1. Replace the power steering pump.
Pump seizure or reduced power steering efficiency (constant increased steering effort)	1. Penetration of abrasive or metallic particles into the pump 2 Destruction of the filter element	Drain contaminated oil from the hydraulic system, replace the pump and reservoir, fill and bleed the hydraulic system.