Front brake caliper. What is a brake caliper and what is it for

It so happens that the car starts to brake badly. You press, and it is as if something wedges in the wheels. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir cap - if the fluid foams or is dark, you will have to full replacement brake fluid... However, most likely, the matter is in the brake caliper or its guides. And you are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

How to remove the brake caliper

Removing the car brake caliper

You are quite capable of repairing the caliper with your own hands.

We tear off the wheel bolts (17, 19, 21 turnkey sizes).
We put the car on the handbrake, raise and fix it additionally with a special wooden "goat" or something else.
We unscrew the wheel bolts or studs (whatever you have there).
We remove the wheel.
Next, using a screwdriver, we try to squeeze the caliper away from us. If it gets stuck, we try to move it at least a little.
There are two bolts behind the caliper (usually 14). We unscrew them.
Remove the caliper. Prepare a stand for it in advance, or hang it on the shock absorber spring. The caliper must never hang from the brake hose.
Take out brake pads from the mount.

DIY brake caliper repair

Car brake caliper repair

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail.

The first thing to do is to inspect the caliper guides (popularly "soldiers"), they most often fail. "Soldiers" should easily walk back and forth. Naturally, they must be intact and completely removed. If their movement is difficult, or they "sour" in one place, then make a simple repair of the caliper guides.

With the help of "VD-40" (or other), clean the anthers of the guides, their seats. As soon as light foam goes instead of dark, it means that the dirt has come out.
Now you need to take a special lubricant for the guides brake calipers (you can use lithol). Liberally lubricate the body of the "soldier", then walk it back and forth several times in the seat.

Perhaps this is all that you can do with your own hands when repairing the caliper guides. If the boot is damaged, buy it, install a new one. The guide is broken off - you also need to purchase a new one (before that, remove the chip), it is not recommended to weld.
There are repair kits for the caliper guides on sale, they include four guides and anthers (only for the rear or only for the front brakes).

Front caliper repair

Over time, the most commonly worn part in a caliper is the cuff.

After we figured out the rails, let's move on to inspecting the brake caliper. First, let's try to clean the brake caliper. Fill under the boot "Vedoshka". Press the brake pedal several times and squeeze out the piston. And so several times. Blow dry with air. If this operation did not help restore the ease of movement of the caliper piston, go ahead.
Over time, the most commonly worn part on it is the cuff. The illustration shows how the cuff pushes back the brake caliper piston after the brake fluid stops pressing on it.
If you did not succeed in squeezing the piston while removing the caliper from the disc, if the brake pads are worn unevenly and if there are traces of overheating (stripes) on the discs, this all indicates the wear of the piston cuff.

To completely remove the caliper for servicing with a wire brush, clean the area around the brake hose-to-caliper connection.
Clean the surface with vd-40 or thinner.
Grasp the hose with special crimps or prepare a container for draining the brake fluid.
Unscrew the hose fixing bolt (usually 11). We take away the hose, we substitute a container under it.
A pre-prepared bolt of the 10th diameter of the thread pitch of 1.5 is screwed into the caliper hole or we substitute a container for draining.
We clamp the caliper in a vice.
Use a flat screwdriver to remove the brake caliper piston boot.
We remove the piston with a puller or using an air compressor.
We take out the old cuff with a spatula.
We clean the seating surface of the cuff and boot.
Put the new cuff from the repair kit for the front calipers with clean hands and lubricated with brake fluid in the groove.

If the piston has cracks or other obvious damage, it must be replaced. The piston is not included in the repair kit for rear calipers (or front) and is either purchased separately, or changed to a similar one from another node.
We replace the brake piston (or clean the old one). Lubricate the piston with brake fluid or a special paste, press it vertically into the caliper body, slightly swinging it with your fingers to the middle.
We are replacing the caliper piston anther with a new one from the repair kit. If the old boot is intact, there must be a lot of dirt and rust left in it. We put it on in the middle of the piston stroke, we continue to press the piston.
We check the piston stroke and the correct seating of the boot - we supply air through the hole into which we screwed the M10.

The brake pads must fit straight into the brake pad mount.

Complete renovation support is implemented, now you need to put everything in place. We put on the pads. Note that the brake pads must fit straight into the brake pad mount. If they are deformed, you can bend them with a pair of narrow-nose pliers. The same repair option is also suitable if the mount rubs against the disc while driving.
If, after all the manipulations, the pads do not fall into place, you need to pay attention to the caliper bracket, most likely it is worn out at the points of contact with the mount and pads. To begin with, to exclude other options, carefully clean the surfaces along which the pads move. If, nevertheless, wear is found, then we repair the caliper bracket.

After the caliper is assembled, it is necessary to bleed the car brakes.

With your own hands, you can weld a layer of metal onto thinned surfaces (if you know how to use welding) and grind, or replace it with a new bracket.
, clean everything threaded connectionsexcept for the brake hose. We change the O-rings for the hollow hose bolt. We blow out the joints with air, screw the bolt back.
After everything is assembled, it is necessary to carry out the pumping of the car brakes.
We unscrew the brake bleeding union. We substitute the container for draining the brake fluid. Pour clean liquid to the level in the main brake cylinder... Press the brake several times - lower it. We look at what is pouring from the fitting. We carry out the operation until a clean liquid without air bubbles flows out of it. We tighten the union. Press the brake again until the pedal is firm.
We remove brake fluid leaks, especially from rubber parts. All. We put on the wheel, we lower the car. Note that this sequence of actions is not typical for all vehicles. Brake calipers are all arranged differently (hex mounts, two pistons, etc.) and therefore are removed and disassembled in different ways. But the basic meaning is about the same.
As you can see dIY repair caliper is not complicated and does not require any special skills and tools for repairing brake calipers (except for a piston puller). main reason failure brake mechanism Is dirt that flies off the road. If you service the brake calipers approximately every six months (just clean their components), you will not have to repair them for a long time.

The life of the driver and his passengers depends on whether the front brake calipers are in good working order. In addition, the caliper is the most important part in the entire brake mechanism. Competition is fierce among car manufacturers. Therefore, automakers are trying to get as many buyers as possible by increasing the maximum speeds.

Historical facts

Experts are confident that the first disc brakes appeared around 1890. The development was carried out by the English engineer Frederick Lanchester. The Lanchester system was a caliper that squeezed the pads. But then there were still no materials from which to make brake discs. This design is a thing of the past. The popularity and development of disc brakes all automotive world obliged to aviation industries. During the Second World War, aircraft landing gear was equipped with calipers. In the early 50s, such systems were already installed on sports cars. After a while, front brake calipers began to appear on civilian cars. The first car to be equipped with a disc braking system was the 1949 Chrysler Crown Imperial.

How the support works, types, principle of operation

As the designs evolved and developed, two types of these mechanisms emerged. These are fixed systems and devices with a floating bracket. Let's consider each type in more detail.

Fixed caliper

These systems are chronologically older than floating brace elements. This mechanism consisted of a body and cylinders on each side of the disk. The caliper body was firmly and rigidly fixed on the front knuckle, and on some models - and rear suspension... When the driver of the car pressed the pedal, one block was pressed against the disc on each side. In the open state, they were held by a special spring. To ensure the simultaneous operation of two pistons, brake fluid was supplied to the mechanism using a network of pipes in each of the cylinders.

Due to the use of several cylinders, this design was very efficient. Such front brake calipers, and the rear ones, are installed on heavy and sports cars... Systems of this level are manufactured in specialized companies that produce sports parts.

Floating caliper

This mechanism differs from the one described above in that on one side the brake pad is constantly in one place. The floating calipers consist of a mounting bracket and a body. The latter is fixed on inside wheels. More often than one is installed in the case brake piston front caliper. In the process of pressing the pedal, this element acts on the movable block. So, at first, the block begins to move, and when it presses against the surface of the dick, the floating bracket moves the second block towards the piston.

Operating principle

The task that the front brake calipers perform is, in fact, braking when you press the corresponding pedal. It is worth considering in more detail the principle of operation of these devices. The algorithm of work is that when the driver presses the pedal, the pressure in the system increases. The piston, located in the GTZ, moves from the beginning of the cylinder to its end, collecting the liquid in the container. Due to the work of the piston, it is squeezed out. Then this fluid moves along the lines and, finally, the piston is triggered. He presses on the pads.

Master cylinder

To understand how a brake caliper works front vaz, it is necessary to disassemble the design of the GTZ. A cylinder is a design with a piston inside. The latter is fixed on the rod, which acts on it. When you press the pedal, this element moves forward. Accordingly, the brake fluid is displaced along with it.

You need to know that it is impossible to squeeze it. If pressure is exerted on the liquid, then it will press on something. Further, the liquid will act on all working cylinders to which the system hoses are connected. After the working cylinder is filled with liquid, the piston inside will be squeezed out and act on the block. The latter will compress the disc and the braking process will begin.

About the need to service the calipers

Often motorists complain that the front brake caliper (this is a Niva or another car - not the point) is ineffective, heats up and often jams. At a certain point, the brakes, which used to delight their owner with clarity and reliability, suddenly became capricious. Such problems arise due to the lack of serviceability of these nodes. Restoration work begins only when the car no longer slows down.

If maintenance is carried out more frequently, the front brake caliper will not need to be repaired. Let's look at the reasons why the caliper can fail, how to maintain and change it.

Corrosion is the main problem

These mechanisms are forced to work in a very difficult conditions... When the driver actively brakes, the disc can heat up to 600 degrees. Other parts of the caliper suffer less. However, they also constantly heat up and cool down. And besides, the front brake caliper ("Toyota Majesta" including) is often exposed to water, sand, salt and various dirt. Naturally, the slave cylinder in the caliper is reliably protected by a boot and a cuff. However, during operation, corrosion may appear on the piston and in the cylinder.

The reasons are water and dirt that makes their way through damaged anthers. It is necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the anthers. And if they have collapsed, then you should purchase a repair kit for the front brake caliper and replace the old part. Condensation also forms inside due to heating / cooling cycles. The outer edges of the cylinders and pistons also corrode. At the beginning, the piston stroke is accompanied by a noticeable force. Then this problem progresses and this will inevitably affect the quality of work. brake system generally. The driver presses on the pedal, but it is very tight. With more pressure, the brakes either work once or not at all. If the cylinder is in good condition, you can get off by removing the rust, then lubricating, and then you can return to effective work. But this is not always the case.

Replace or repair?

If the brake calipers are not regularly serviced, the pistons can jam in the cylinders. In this case, even the front brake caliper repair kit will not help, especially since it consists of an anther and a cuff. In this case, it is necessary to repair and restore the surface of the cylinders.

The way to solve this problem depends on the design of the caliper, the car model, as well as on the state of the mechanisms itself. For example, you might have to buy a new piston, or in the worst case, purchase a new or used caliper. This is a very expensive pleasure - the front right brake caliper, and accordingly the left one for the VAZ-2108 will cost 2,500 rubles each.

Breakdown symptoms and repair

The creak indicates that this mechanism will soon fail. This means that there is friction, which will slowly but surely destroy the mechanism. Calipers creak for several reasons. One of them is skewed pads. The second reason is worn discs. The good news is that this mechanism can be restored.

To do this, put the car on special supports and then remove the wheel. Next, take out the pads - this can be done by unscrewing the lower bolt. Then unscrew the top. It holds the caliper itself. After this, the bolts securing the brackets to the fist are unscrewed and removed. Next, remove the piston. To squeeze it out, you need to depress the brake pedal. When the element has been removed, the brake line must be removed and clogged. A bolt 12 is suitable for this. The main thing is not to forget to remove it from there.

Then the front left brake caliper or the one that is out of order is disassembled down to the screws. Each element is cleaned to a high shine with cleaning agents. Worn out parts are replaced. Also, before assembly, you need to prepare a repair kit - change all rubber bands (rings and anthers). This is about the renovation. Replacement is even easier - here the old part is simply thrown away, and the new one is installed in its place and screwed on with bolts. You just have to install the pads in the guides and fix their position. By the way, the details of the system change in pairs (left and right together).

Caliper selection

The automotive market offers a ton of options. Need a budget front brake caliper? Its price is from 2 thousand rubles. If you need something more expensive and effective, you should pay attention to mechanisms from JBT. Also good feedback write about the products of the domestic brand "Proma". A set of brakes with discs and four-piston calipers will cost 36 thousand rubles. For normal driving, you can purchase standard calipers manufactured by AvtoVAZ.

Each of the components fulfills its strictly assigned role. We will not go into the technical components of this complex system, but we will single out one element that performs almost all the braking work independently. We are talking about a brake caliper, the main purpose of which is to press against brake disc... In this case, the brake and pads play a purely passive role. That is why the caliper is an important element of the braking system, on the proper condition of which the braking efficiency, and therefore safety, depends.

Brake caliper device

The braking system is the main element of the car

The main task of the caliper is to supply braking force to the discs, which leads to a stop of the car. Everything seems to look simple, but this is only at first glance.

The caliper is a complex system, it can not only stop a racing car or motorcycle, but also create a huge number of problems for stopping. So, how does braking work if the caliper is in good condition and perfectly lubricated.

When you press the brake pedal, pressure is created in the brake line, which is transmitted directly to the piston group of calipers.
In turn, the caliper holds the pads in the direction in relation to the disc, and it must be strictly parallel.
Since the disc is fixed on the wheel and, accordingly, rotates at its speed, after the force occurs in the hydraulic path, the calipers do the following. Under the influence of pressure, they bring the pads to the disc, squeezing it from both sides.

Under the influence of friction, rotation begins to slow down, but at the same time we get a side effect. As is known from the law of conservation of energy, it does not go to waste, but simply changes. With regard to the work of the calipers, the energy becomes thermal, thereby heating the caliper and pads. Therefore, on the one hand, the calipers simply must be strong, but on the other hand, they must have excellent heat dissipation so that heat is transferred as quickly as possible, but on one condition - the brake caliper must not deform under the influence of high temperature and not wedge the pistons.

The brake caliper squeaks and knocks

Your life depends on the serviceability of the brake caliper

The very first problem indicating that the caliper is close to breaking or just worn out is a creak. Squeaking means that there is friction, which gradually begins to destroy the mechanism. By the way, there may be several reasons for the caliper creak. One of the reasons may be the pads themselves, if they are skewed, or put in inconsistency with their seats - they were simply confused during the repair. The last reason that can cause a malfunction of the calipers can be discs that have worn out due to constant and excessive loads, but no one bothered to install new ones.
Let's give one example. When the piston boot bursts, road dirt enters the caliper cylinder. It begins to scratch both the cylinder and the piston, thereby leading to the formation of rust and, subsequently, to the seizure of the piston.

To maximize the life of your brake calipers, you should know what will only allow you to extend their life. useful use... Let me remind you: it is not advisable to use the usual lubrication of the brake caliper guides, although most of them simply neglect it. The choice of special lubricants is due to the fact that being located in the lower part of the car, the brake caliper, in addition to the high temperature load during friction, is constantly negatively affected by road salt and dirt.

Repair of the brake caliper

If you have a great desire to find out on your own and subsequently learn how to check and even restore the brake caliper, you should clearly follow a certain sequence. So let's get started.
What we need to do is disassemble the caliper, clean it of the old dried grease, treat it with a new one, check the serviceability of the rubber seals (if worn or damaged, replace it) and put the whole structure back together. It should be noted that reassembly happens in the same order.

We install the car on supports and only then remove the wheel. To replace the brake pad on the front (right and left) brake caliper, simply unscrew the lower bolt. He attaches the caliper body to the bracket, and only then fold the body up.
We shoot worn out pads... We install new pads in exactly the same position. To do this, unscrew the lower mounting bolt (connects the caliper body to the caliper), fold the body up and gain access to the brake pads.
We remove the worn out pads from the seats.
Already unscrews the upper pain of fastening the brake caliper, and we hang it on a wire to any suspension element. Attention: the brake fluid line is not disconnected.
We release the bolts securing the brackets to the fist and remove the brackets (only in the cathedral!) With the guides and the pad retainer.
We take out the piston from the body. To push the piston out of the brake system (the caliper body has not yet been disconnected from the brake line), you must depress the brake pedal. It is possible that this is a completely wrong way, but if there is no compressed air, this method will be the most appropriate.
When the piston is removed, disconnect and plug the brake line to prevent further fluid leakage. Uses an M-12 bolt for sealing. On both sides we seal the "blockage" with any soft material.

For your information: during the entire procedure, you must monitor the brake fluid level. First, we still need to push out the remaining pistons. Secondly, no air must enter the brake system. After each time the brake fluid is spilled, check its level and, if necessary, top up to the MAX level.

After all the manipulations, the caliper body and staples should lie on a free and clean surface, which are further disassembled to the last screw.
When the caliper is completely disassembled, it becomes clear in what state it is. After a thorough inspection, each element must be cleaned to a shine using cleaning fluids. Only in pure form, it is possible to really assess the condition of the brake caliper, in particular, it is necessary to carefully examine the surfaces of the cylinder and pistons.

And last but not least. Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to prepare in advance the brake caliper repair kit (front and rear). It should include:

anthers guides;
o-ring in the cylinder;
a piston boot and a few other necessary items.

Provided that the new repair kit is not at hand, it is worth putting the old components in order. But here it is important to observe one condition: they must all be whole!

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If you notice that the car is noticeably moving to the right or left when braking, and after releasing the brake pedal, the front wheels (wheel) remain locked, overheating is observed brake discs or there is a feeling that they are deformed - then signs of a malfunction of the brake caliper on your face, and you should pay close attention to vAZ disc brake caliper... In particular, its pistons, cylinders and guides deserve special attention.

It should be borne in mind that similar brake caliper malfunctions can be caused by other reasons. Here is a list of them:

Heavy wear on the brake pads.
Defective brake master cylinder.
Availability air congestion in the hydraulic drive of the brake system.
Damage to the brake disc.

Therefore, in order to localize the malfunction, you must first make sure that all other components are in order and bleed the brake system. Next, you will learn how to check the caliper guides.

Checking the caliper guides ("fingers") Lada Kalina (VAZ 1118)

If after carrying out these activities the problem remains, you can go directly to caliper diagnostics... In this case, the cylinder and guide pins ("fingers") deserve special attention, along which the caliper moves when the piston leaves the cylinder to compress the pads. The first sign of poor performance of the guides is their heavily soiled surface, which impedes the movement of the caliper. This is also evidenced by the uneven wear of the inner and outer - it should not exceed 5 mm.

If you find these symptoms, it is better to replace the caliper guides. Their cost in place with all the washers and anthers assembled is small and will not require special costs. The operation of removing them and installing new "fingers" will take no more than an hour, provided that all four guides are replaced. If desired (or lack of spare parts), you can try to clean the old guides.

If inspection shows that the rails are in order and that the pad wear is uniform, attention should be shifted to the caliper cylinders. First of all, it is worth examining them for brake fluid leaks. The presence of these indicates the wear of the oil seals. In this case, the replacement of the complete caliper is required, since its repair at home is almost impossible with the required efficiency.

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If, when you press the brake pedal, the pistons do not come out of the cylinders or do not come back after releasing it, while still pressing the pads against the discs, this indicates their acidification. In this case, you can try to restore normal work caliper (see article Prevention of brake calipers) or immediately replace the caliper with cylinder and piston assembly.

Before checking the operation of the guides and pistons of the front calipers, be sure to check the rest of the brake system, a malfunction of which may lead to similar symptoms. When diagnosing the condition of the brake calipers, pay special attention to the condition of the rails and pistons.

Good day, gentlemen, motorists! I think no one will argue with the statement that the braking system is a key component of any vehicle... It is she who ensures the safety of our trips on the "iron horse". Proceeding from this, each driver not only has to, he is obliged to monitor the serviceability of the mechanism by regular diagnostics and timely repairs. Otherwise, as you yourself understand, the consequences can be fatal. The front brake caliper is a key component of the entire system, the breakdown of which is not uncommon. In this article, you will find out what this element is, how it functions and most importantly - possible ways repairing it.

Back to the past

Calipers in modern car design are used exclusively in disc braking systems. Today, you can find car models not only with front, but also with rear units of this type. However, this was not always the case, previously, more simple mechanisms... For the first time front caliper, pressing the pads, was installed on the car even before the Second World War by the British Frederick Lanchester, who developed it.

But at that time, the novelty turned out to be even more primitive than the then mechanisms, so the English creation was forgotten for a while. Soon after the end of hostilities and the fall of the Hitler regime, modified disc brakes successfully demonstrated themselves in aviation. “If such a system is capable of stopping a huge plane, there should be no problems with the car,” suggested the then young English carmaker Chrysler.

So, in 1949, front disc brakes were already in full swing mounted on the production car Chrysler Crown Imperial.

Before embarking on the conveyor, such a system was battle-hardened on sports cars, where it did not cause almost any complaints.

Since then, the advanced development at that time has spread all over the world, as you yourself understand, it got to domestic cars WHA.

Device and principle of operation

So, for beginners who do not suck understand what the subject of our conversation looks like, let's take a look at its device. The front caliper is a mechanism that exerts physical pressure on the brake pads while the vehicle is in motion, thereby pressing them against the disc. By and large, the caliper is the only active element of the braking system, the rest are all passive. In order to provide the braking force required to stop or decelerate a vehicle, a number of parts are present in its design.

Caliper body;
Brake hose;
Piston and its components (boot, mounting and sealing ring);
Staple;
Guides and their anthers.

It works as follows, when the brake pedal is pressed, the necessary pressure is formed in the brake line, a significant role in the creation of which the brake cylinder plays. The fluid, as you already understood under pressure, makes the piston move, and that, in turn, presses the pads, fixing them strictly parallel to the disc.

Due to the presence of a staple in the design, the pads are pressed evenly from both the outside and the inside.

In the photo above, you can more clearly see the entire structure of the front brake caliper.

Main opponent of calipers

It would seem that everything is wonderfully thought out, without the slightest flaw, and that then there in England they did not suit them, one can only guess. However, although there is one, but still there is a flaw. I dare to assume that it was he who did not allow the caliper to displace drum brakes even before the war, his name is high temperature.

The thing is, when the pads rub against the disc, all the elements of this unit are heated, including the brake fluid, especially during the grinding in of the brake element. Doubt? Leaving the car on a hot summer morning after another trip with new pads, touch the wheel rim, even it can get very hot, be careful not to burn yourself. Of course, if you know how to properly change the brake pads, this is unlikely to threaten you, but still.

Of course, such an unpleasant property forces the manufacturers of calipers to take a responsible approach to the process of their release and monitor the clarity of some characteristics in their own products:

Strength;
High level of heat transfer;
Resistant to high temperatures.

With this, I think everything is clear, as a preventive measure, I will remind you: you should clearly know, because worn out they are no less dangerous than the same failed caliper!

The main symptoms of malfunctions

There are plenty of signs of a front brake caliper malfunction, now I'll tell you all of them.

When braking, the car pulls to the side.
To stop the car completely, you need to make more efforts than before.
The brake pedal pulsates.
Overly soft pedal with elements of failures.
With more effort rear brakes are blocked.
The brakes are engaged.

If you hear a characteristic tapping from the wheel, most likely a backlash has appeared between the brake element and the stupor, I have already explained to you how to get rid of it. Those who missed that publication can check it out.

Getting started repair

Experienced people know that before restoring the vital activity of the caliper, it is necessary to understand the need for repair or replacement. That is, you need to establish what the actual malfunction is. I must say right away that there is not one or even two types of caliper breakdowns, they can be very different, we will consider the most common cases and ways out of the situation.

Pads wedging in the caliper - if, having dismantled the caliper (it's easy to do, usually two bolts and that's it), it turns out that the pads do not have freewheel in it, corrosion is often to blame. To remove it, arm yourself with sandpaper and a metal brush, I think everyone knows how to use them. In cases where there is a development on the caliper (pits, grooves in the general groove), it is better to replace the part.
Jammed guides - for repairs, you will have to remove the pads and put the caliper on your workplace, where you try to move the part along the guides. The first step is to make sure that the guides are not kinked or kinked. Next, clean and lubricate the elements, if you cannot achieve free play, you will have to buy a caliper repair kit.
Rusted piston - if this happened, you may have already overlooked somewhere before, because either prolonged parking of the car or a torn boot can lead to this. To remove corrosion, remove and disassemble the caliper and grind the removed piston. For these purposes, there is a special paste, but small rust will come off at home. In the final rinse seat parts WD-40 and you can put everything in place.

Front caliper price for domestic cars, starts from the mark of 1.5 thousand rubles, you will hardly find cheaper. Therefore, if you are a responsible driver and throwing money down the drain is not for you, carry out periodic diagnostics of the brake system own car, after all this procedure will significantly prolong her "life". However, in any case, sooner or later, acquire this part have to.

Be careful: when making a purchase, check with the seller which support he sells to you, since the left and right are different and not interchangeable!

Lazy people keep asking what to do if old ones creak and in the same spirit. I am sure that you are not the kind of dear friends, to remove the wheel is just a piece of cake for you, and the caliper is just that! If among you there are also laborers, I don’t think that everything I have outlined helped them in any way, but I still hope! I have nothing to add, only that the brakes were not invented by cowards, but by smart people! See you later!